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Home , Charlies Bunion, Cochetopa Hills, Ebbetts Pass, Flattop Mountain, High Knob, High Peaks (Maine)

The top 36 hikes on America’s Classic Don’t have six months to thru-hike one of America’s premier long-distance ? Then do the next-best thing: Hit the highlights with our working stiff’s guide to the most memorable adventures along the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails. By Michael Lanza

Copyright © 2008 Backpacker Magazine. All rights reserved. 2

BEST OF THE BEST OF THE BEST OF THE Pacific Crest Continental Divide Appalachian Trail Trail

Passing through six North American In 1966, in his mid-80s, the father of In 1921, when Benton MacKaye first ecozones on its 2,650-mile journey from the went before Con- imagined a trail that would the searing deserts of Southern Cali- gress to call for a backcountry path follow the crest of the East’s dominant fornia to the rainforests of the Pacific tracing the spine of the Rockies from mountain range, he envisioned a Northwest, the is the Canada to Mexico. Twelve years later, people’s path, a forever-wild corridor most diverse of our long trails. It is also, the 3,100-mile CDT was born–our most and refuge for the millions living in step for step, arguably the most scenic. remote and difficult long trail. nearby urban centers.

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Photo credit(s): Stephen Matera

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1 Passing through six North American ecozones on its 2,650-mile journey from the 2 searing deserts of Southern to the rainforests of the , 3 the Pacific Crest Trail is the most diverse of our long trails. It is also, step for step, arguably the most scenic. The roster of sights reads like an inventory of America’s

3 BEST OF THE natural treasures: Sequoia & Kings Canyon, Yosemite, the , Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, the North . And that’s just a short list culled from 4 Pacific Crest the seven national parks, 24 national forests, and 34 areas it touches. Trail Where to begin? Right here, with our sampler of the PCT’s top hikes.

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4 1 SCENERY WITH SOLITUDE: vertical topography pushes the path off the , WA crest, the PCT stays high here, riding the Pasayten’s broader ridges and open mead- 5 There’s really no such thing as ows. Go light on rain gear: This area sits in crowds on the PCT, but if you the Cascades’ rain shadow, which means want to ditch every last bit you’ll get views of Mt. Baker, North Cascades 6 of traffic, hike the north- National Park, and the needlelike Picket

6 ernmost 40 miles. On this Range—without their sloppy weather. leg from Harts Pass to Canada’s Manning Pro- Local Wisdom Best month: September. Sum- mer’s bugs are gone, nights are cool, and the vincial Park (where thru- larch and scrub maple turn a vibrant gold and hikers exit the trail), you’ll red, respectively, contrasting photogenically with enjoy a vista-to-backpacker the deep green of the spruce. ratio that borders on the ludicrous. What’s more, the The Way The southern endpoint is Harts Pass on FR 5400. Get there by turning north off WA 20 half-million-acre Pasayten near milepost 179, then left onto Lost River Rd., is big and wild enough to har- which becomes FR 5400 and leads 18.7 miles to bor grizzlies and gray wolves that trailhead parking. The northern endpoint is at wander across the border from Brit- BC 3 in Manning Provincial Park. (See www.pcta. ish Columbia, plus the largest concentration org/planning/before.asp for info on hiking across of lynx in the contiguous . And the border.) unlike sections farther south, where extreme Photo credit(s): Stephen Matera

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2 2 BEST WEEK: water—rivers, creeks, and a constel- 3 , WA lation of 700 lakes, many of them blessed with superb tent sites When we asked PCT veterans 3 and swimming. Our experts’ BEST OF THE to name their favorite thing pick for best post-hike dip: Mig 4 about the 75-mile trek from Pacific Crest Lake, a shallow beauty that Snoqualmie to Stevens Pass, warms up by midsummer. Trail the responses were as varied Don’t Miss Photo ops on the east 5 as they were passionate. Which made us realize that what distin- side of Huckleberry Mountain, where 4 guishes this section—most of which goats frequent a verdant, creek-incised lies within the Alpine Lakes Wilder- meadow beneath a full-on view of Rainier. The Way Start from I-90 at . 5 ness—is its uniform excellence. You want mountain views? You Finish at US 2 at Stevens Pass. get craggy peaks in Sierralike 3 abundance, horizon-hoggers TOP WEEKEND: 6 like Rainier and , OR 6 Peak, and neighborhood High on everyone’s list of the PCT’s finest giants like 9,415-foot Mt. attributes are its incomparable views of Stuart. Flora and fauna? the great Cascade peaks. This 16-mile There are mountain goats, trek around the port side of 11,235-foot black bears, and veritable Mt. Hood delivers those epic vistas—only herds of marmots whis- on this hike, you’re also exploring one of tling amid columbine, Indian North America’s largest volcanoes. You’ll paintbrush, and tiger lilies. meander through meadows teeming with You’ve heard about the harsh midsummer wildflowers—beargrass, lupine, Cascades weather? No promises Indian paintbrush—and across canyons of here, of course, but with the trail crumbling that dramatically illustrate lying largely east of the Cascade crest, the power of volcanic mudflows. bluebird days predominate from July through September. And lakeside camping? As the You’ll pass beneath whose roar- name implies, this wilderness is full of ing, chocolate-colored meltwater rivers Photo credit(s): George Wuerther, Tomas Kaspar

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2 churn downhill with miles to . The 3 dangerous power. Timberline/PCT trailhead is behind A bonus: The PCT the lodge. The hike ends at , on FR 18 (Lolo Pass Rd.). 3 BEST OF THE drops a net 2,520 feet from Timberline 4 WEEKENDS: NORTH Pacific Crest Lodge to Lolo Pass, 1 William O. Douglas Wilderness, making this a relatively Trail WA easy walk. Aggressive hik- 5 ers can do it in one long day, Hike A good pick for new backpackers 4 but then they’d have to skip the side and fit families, the 29.5-mile leg from White hike up Yocum Ridge. About 10 miles from Pass north to is almost as Timberline, an unofficial trail climbs spectacular but not as challenging as the 5 2,000-plus feet up Yocum to color- contiguous stretch. Amid steadily ful meadows so close to the improving views, the PCT traverses relatively Reid and Sandy Glaciers you’ll flat, lake-dotted terrain in hemlock forest 6 feel the frosty breath ema- with a colorful ground cover of azalea, lupine, nating from their crevasses. and huckleberry. North of Crag Lake (mile 6 17), the trail climbs back to the crest, and the Don’t Miss A 2.3-mile detour onto the old Skyline show begins. You’ll cross meadows of aster, Trail. From the PCT heading spirea, and blueberries; in late summer, pick northbound, turn right onto a pint as you linger over views of Mts. Adams, the OST just after crossing the St. Helens, and—only 12 miles distant—a upper ’s two forks. gargantuan Rainier. The OST climbs higher on Hood Insider tip: Camp at quiet Anderson Lake; it’s just than the PCT does, and it’s more inside Mt. Rainier National Park, yet no permit is scenic, joining Paradise Park Trail required. 778 and crossing wildflower mead- ows that offer views of the glaciated Drive South end: From Packwood, take US 12 E upper mountain. Trail 778 rejoins the PCT and turn left .5 mile past . Go .2 mile about 2 miles beyond where you left it. to the trailhead near Leech Lake. North end: Chinook Pass on WA 410. The Way From US 26 east of Government Camp, turn north onto Timberline Rd. and follow it 5 Photo credit(s): Stephen Matera

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2 2 Goat Rocks Crest, WA 3 , OR 3 Hike In a state that’s hardly short on splendor, Goat Rocks Hike Hundreds of lakes dot 3 BEST OF THE may be the PCT’s aesthetic a 6,000-foot plateau on this 4 Pacific Crest . For half of the 30 33.4-mile leg between Sevenmile miles between White Pass and Trail 3703 and OR 140. While Trail , the path straddles most of the route is in a quiet conifer forest, a few spots open up 5 a 7,000-foot ridge, affording pinup-quality panoramas of Rainier, to head-spinning views. The best: the 4 Adams, and St. Helens. The scenery closer string of volcanoes visible from 9,495-foot at hand doesn’t suck, either: You’ll Mt. McLoughlin (via a 3.5-mile side trail) and 7,582-foot Devils Peak (via a .5-mile spur). 5 cross Cispus Basin, where streams plunge off cliffs amid fireweed, Ditch the PCT in two spots for more-scenic lupine, and pearly everlasting; parallel trails. One is Red Lake Trail 987, and Snowgrass Flats, car- which leads to secluded campsites above 6 peted in its namesake puffy Island and Dee Lakes; the other is Sky Lakes

6 white flowers. For more Trail 3762. And add a day or two for a side waterfalls and wildflowers, loop on the Isherwood Trail to fish for rain- camp at McCall Basin, .5 bows at Lake Notasha, swim in Elizabeth and mile off the PCT via the old Isherwood Lakes, and camp above Heavenly Cascade Crest Trail. Until Twin Lake. Late summer has fewer bugs and mid-July, you might need more ripe huckleberries. an ice axe and crampons for Drive Sevenmile trailhead (1.8-mile hike to PCT): snow crossings, especially on In , go west on Nicholson Rd., then the Packwood Glacier. right 5.5 miles on FR 3334. End: Park on OR 140 Drive Start: On US 12, 1 mile east east of Fish Lake. of White Pass. End: From US 12, turn south between mileposts 128 and 129 onto 4 BEST DAYHIKE: FR 21. Turn left onto FR 2160 after 20 miles. Go 5 , CA miles; park at Walupt Lake. The PCT is 4.5 miles Getting PCT cognoscenti to agree on the up the Nannie Ridge Trail. Photo credit(s): Tomas Kaspar

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2 INSIDER TIPS 1 5 1 2 3 4 5 2 Click number to view tip 3 STAYPACKTRYRISEREAD A SLOWLYLOW ANUPTARP AXE MostBeforeLateAcclimatizeCheck summerof outmid-July, the Yogi’s PCTto andthe is PCTyou’ll highfallrock- Handbook bring wantelevations and beautiful anroot-free, ice ($25, by axe hydrating, color—andwww.pcthand inperfect much - 3 BEST OF THE 12345 forofareeatingbook.co low-cutideal high-carb/low-fatm times) andshoes. and theto lighten Forthree-volumeOregon hikes foods,up. (like in But the andthe Pacificmosquitoes Northwest Mt.camping Jefferson Crest no canand Trail 4 Pacific Crest early-seasonWildernessbemorefrom thick thethan until PCTA 1,000 Area). Sierra,August ($20 feet Ditto to addhigherin $25 thein waterproof the each, Sierra than Sierra www.pcta.orthe and throughgaiters.previous Pacific June.g night.). Trail Northwest.

5 trail’s top dayhike might seem the PCT at 10,880 feet on the peak’s BEST MONTH: 5 4 like a Sisyphean effort, but there’s east shoulder. Then, to reach your High Sierra, CA surprising consensus on the 8-mile car at Leavitt Lake, descend 1.7 Some things are so inevitable walk from 9,628-foot Sonora Pass miles on an old, closed jeep track 5 there’s no sense disputing them: south to Leavitt . Here, called Horse Meadow Road, which death, taxes, and the unrivaled the PCT straddles a windswept is 8.1 miles south of Sonora Pass beauty of the Sierra. Which is why ridge high above treeline, with near 10,640-foot Leavitt Lake Pass. every hiker’s life list should include 6 100-mile Sierra views. In the fore- Local Wisdom Create a shorter, partial the 270 miles between Mt. Whitney ground, shimmering alpine lakes 6 loop back to Sonora Pass by linking and Sonora Pass. Yes, it may dot glacial among towering Latopie, Koening, and Leavitt Lakes via take a month, but that’s a trivial cliffs and hillsides bursting with cross-country routes. sacrifice to make for the most lupine, green gentian, and other The Way Sonora Pass is 35 miles east unrelenting wilderness eye candy wildflowers. Gnarled whitebark of Pinecrest on CA 108. To leave a you’ll ever feast on. Following pines claw the air in mute testi- vehicle at Leavitt Lake, drive 3.8 miles the John Muir Trail much of the mony to their own staying power. east of Sonora Pass on CA 108, then way, the PCT rambles through And off in the distance, in every turn right onto Leavitt Lake Rd., which dozens of scenes suitable for direction, are regal stone giants. On climbs 3 steep, deeply rutted miles to framing—13,000- and 14,000-foot a good day, you’ll see Mts. Conness the lake. (Walk or bike this last stretch granite skyscrapers, canyons a and Lyell in Yosemite. Cap off your if you don’t have 4WD.) mile deep, and thousands of lakes hike with the half-mile scramble in beds of polished rock. You’ll walk up 11,570-foot , leaving the longest strip of roadless trail

Photo credit(s): William Neil & Larry Ulrich

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2 in the nation and bump into civilization 6 MOST DIVERSE: 3 just twice. The best campsite , CA is ... virtually anywhere, The best place to experience 3 though an enduringly BEST OF THE the PCT’s notorious elevation classic spot to pitch 4 changes is on the 55-mile Pacific Crest nylon is Vidette Meadow, traverse of the San Jacintos. below the soaring Trail From the 10,804-foot top of Kearsarge Pinnacles. Mt. San Jacinto, you’ll descend 5 If you absolutely can’t almost 9,600 feet in about 20 spare more than a week, 4 miles, dropping through all knock off the 76 miles six of California’s life zones. In from Tuolumne two or three days, you’ll go from 5 Meadows to Sonora a barren alpine summit to forests Pass; here, the PCT of white fir, lodgepole pine, and western ventures beyond the popular white pine to a scrubby desert of chaparral JMT into remote northern 6 and shaggy Mojave yucca—the biotic Yosemite and the Emigrant 6 equivalent to walking from to Death Wilderness. And leave Valley. Following a long ridge, this traverse your umbrella at home: features high-mountain views of rugged side The Sierra in summer is canyons, the cliffs of rock-climbing mecca reliably sunny and mild. Tahquitz Rock, Joshua Tree National Park, LOCAL WISDOM Flatlanders and ’s highest peak, should hike this stretch north 11,499-foot San Gorgonio. Tagging Mt. San to south to acclimatize before Jacinto’s summit requires a detour off the reaching the higher elevations of PCT via the Wellmans Cienaga and San Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Jacinto Peak Trails (a distance comparable Parks. to the PCT stretch you’ll miss). The payoff: The Way Sonora Pass ivs 35 miles east of views stretching into and Mexico, and Pinecrest on CA 108. The Whitney Portal trailhead to the Pacific.. is at the end of Whitney Portal Rd., 13 miles west of US 395. Local Wisdom Hike northbound to knock 3,200 Photo credit(s): Thomas Hallstein

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2 feet off your climb. The best campsites are on 6,880-foot summit and exquisite views south 3 side trails: Cedar Spring, a mile north via Cedar from 1,000-foot cliffs to the and Spring Trail 4E17; and Little Tahquitz Valley, .3 north to the dark hulk of Black Mountain. mile north on the Tahquitz Valley Trail. 3 BEST OF THE Backtrack to the PCT and hike south 1.4

4 The Way The endpoints are at Pines-to-Palms miles to the Shadow Lake Trail and the hike’s Pacific Crest Highway (CA 74) just west of Santa Rosa Summit most spectacular campsite—perched at Trail and Snow Canyon Road just south of I-10 near ’s edge hundreds of feet above Sky High . Lakes Basin. Then it’s just .3 mile south on 5 the PCT to a left turn down Red Rock Valley 4 WEEKENDS: SOUTH to the trailhead. 4 Marble Mountain Wilderness, CA Drive From Fort Jones on CA 3, turn west onto Hike Sierra scenery without Scott River Rd. and follow it 13.4 miles to 5 Sierra traffic is the lure Indian Scotty Campground. Turn left onto of this 18-mile loop. FR 44N45, bear left at an immediate fork, Starting beneath and continue 6.8 miles to its end. 6 and bigleaf , CA 5 6 maple on the Hike Yosemite this ain’t. Here in the Canyon Creek northern Sierra, you leave the ubiquitous Trail, you’ll climb granite behind for a surreal landscape of into the very alpine Sky volcanic plugs, lava flows, and colorful High Lakes Basin. Views pinnacles. The geologic peculiarities begin expand as you approach in Raymond Meadows, which is a few miles the PCT junction, situated 7 north of , the starting point of miles from the trailhead on this 17.7-mile, south-north traverse. You’ll a ridgetop at 6,400 feet. Hike walk past innumerable bizarre formations the PCT northbound, then turn scattered between 8,000 and 9,000 feet, northwest on the Marble Rim Trail, across country intermittently vegetated ascending an open ridge of light-colored with sagebrush or pine and hemlock. The marble for less than a mile. A short off-trail often-faint trail enhances your sense of section brings you to Marble Mountain’s remoteness. The most soul-stirring scene: Photo credit(s): Justin Bailie, Stephen Matera

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2 From 8,650 feet on the difficulties—including 3 the ridge northeast of an enormous load of Reynolds Peak, you’ll water—the desert will 3 BEST OF THE gaze north at a massive, reward your pack-mule

4 perfectly symmetrical rock toughness. The open terrain Pacific Crest dome across the Eagle offers constantly changing Trail Creek Valley, and beyond views of the myriad ridges it, cathedral-like Peak 9700. and gullies defining these hills. 5 Camp at Raymond Lake, reached Beyond the sprawling 600,000 acre 4 by a .7-mile spur midway through this park, you’ll see San Ysidro Mountain hike, for a stunning show of dawn light. across the Montezuma Valley, and the Drive Start at CA 4 immediately east of higher, tantalizingly green Volcan Mountains. 5 Ebbetts Pass. End at Blue Lakes Rd. Look for elusive , and be ready From CA 88 in Hope Valley, turn to encounter barrel cactus, agave, cholla, south onto Blue Lakes Rd. and sparse scrub oak, juniper, dense chaparral, 6 follow it to the PCT, crossing and “forests” of ocotillo shrubs, which just before the road descends grow in single stalks 10 to 15 feet tall and 6 to Lower Blue Lake. bloom in spring with flaming-red flowers. At elevations from 2,200 to 4,400 feet, this hike 6 Anza-Borrego Desert is best done from fall through early spring. State Park, CA Start the hot ascent of Grapevine Mountain Hike California’s largest at dawn. Wildflowers bloom from January state park is hot, almost through March. shadeless, and waterless Drive Start at CA 78 in the San Felipe Valley, for the entire 23.8-mile leg of immediately east of CA S2 and 12.5 miles east of the PCT that traverses the San Julian. End at Montezuma Valley Road S22, 4.5 Felipe Hills. But if you can handle miles west of Ranchita.

Photo credit(s): William Neil & Larry Ulrich, Thomas Hallstein

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1 Benton MacKaye just couldn’t give it a rest. In 1966, in his mid-80s, the father of the Appalachian Trail went before Congress to call for 1 a backcountry path tracing the spine of the Rockies from Canada to

2 Mexico. Twelve years later, the 3,100-mile CDT was born. Our most

3 remote and difficult long trail, it poses route-finding, elevation, and weather challenges, but the payoff is a experience of 2 unrivaled beauty and purity.

BEST OF THE 1 MOST SCENIC: as clomping through your campsite Glacier National Park and and mountain goats picking their way Continental Divide 3 Bob Marshall Wilderness,MT across precarious cliff faces. Then Trail 4 there’s the area’s fabled re- BACKPACKER read- moteness: You’ll hike long 4 ers consistently vote stretches—including a Glacier their favorite 122.6-mile expanse park, and they get in the Bob—without 5 no quibble from us. crossing a road. If Fact is, there’s no 6 you bite off the entire prettier length of 300 miles, hire a local 5 the CDT than the horse packer to resup- 300-and-change ply you at Gates Park, a miles through Gla- 7 vast meadow 44.6 miles cier and the sprawling, north of the Benchmark/ irrepressibly wild Bob South Fork trailhead. Don’t Marshall Wilderness Com- have a month to do it all? Our plex. But beyond the eye candy, this favorite week is the 54.3-mile stretch hike may be the quintessential CDT from Two Medicine Campground to experience. Among the few remaining Many Glacier—a sampler that takes in intact ecosystems in the Lower 48, the Glacier’s splendid alpine scenery, soli- Northern Rockies harbor a long list tude, and wildlife. of mega fauna that includes grizzlies (yes, you’re likely to see them), as well Local Wisdom Dense forest and a scarcity

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of flat ground make campsites hard to find in flected in Mirror Lake, the views of spires 1 the Bob—look along the rivers. from the CDT’s highest point in 2 The Way The monthlong hike’s endpoints are (11,120-foot Lester Pass)—but in truth, 3 Rogers Pass on MT 200 and Waterton Townsite the entire stretch is so idyllic it might just in Waterton Lakes National Park, Canada. redefine your vision of perfection. Reach the latter via MT 17 into Alberta, where 2 Don’t Miss Sandpoint Lake, a deep, forest- it becomes AB 6; then head west on AB 5 into encircled gem with a sandy beach at its south Waterton Park. BEST OF THE end. BEST WEEK: 2 The Way Big Sandy trailhead Continental Divide 3 : From Boulder, Range, WY follow WY 353 for 18.5 miles. Turn left, go 9 Trail 4 miles. Turn left again, drive 7 miles, and turn What backpacker hasn’t dreamed of a 4 left again. Pass the side roads to Sedgewick range of soaring granite peaks Meadows and Temple Creek summer cloaked in snowfields and homes, then take the right fork to azure skies, a place to hike the campground and trailhead. 5 from lake to alpine lake Green River Lakes trailhead: 6 through endless mead- Six miles north of Pinedale, ows of bluebells, lupine, turn off US 191 onto WY 352 5 and purple gentian? and drive nearly 46 miles. Well, sometimes BEST WEEKEND 3 7 dreams come true— like on the 67-mile OVERALL: Rocky Mountain National section between the Big Park, CO Sandy and Green River Lakes trailheads. The path The official CDT route by- traverses the west side of passes this park—the Na- the Wind Rivers, paralleling the tional Park Service, concerned 12,000- and 13,000-foot mountains form- about hiker traffic, insisted—and that’s a ing the Continental Divide. Special thrills shame, because RMNP features one of include the Sound-of-Music meadow of the Divide’s most breathtaking stretches. Fish Creek Park, the jagged peaks re- But a little-known alternate route on Photo credit(s): Larry Ulrich

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the Tonahutu Creek and The Way From US 34, 1 North Inlet Trails creates head toward Grand Lake on CO 278. Within 2 a stunning loop of about .3 mile, take the left 3 25 miles on the park’s less-traveled west side. fork. Go .8 mile; turn left onto a dirt road. Starting at Grand Lake, it 2 Parking at Tonahutu leads through quiet lodge- Creek (start) is a short BEST OF THE pole pine and meadows along distance; North Inlet (end) is Tonahutu Creek, climbs past 1.2 miles ahead. Continental Divide 3 waterfalls, then crests a broad alpine plateau above 11,000 feet. Here, the trail WEEKENDS: NORTH Trail 4 crosses a stark tundra of rock and wild- Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness, MT 1 4 flowers, with views of 14,255-foot Longs Hike Gold rushers should have looked Peak and the long chain of mountains here—during the last two weeks of Sep- along the Divide. It reaches the continent’s tember. That’s when the larch turn golden, 5 spine at 12,363-foot Ptarmigan Point and making the CDT’s 38.5 miles from Middle 12,324-foot Flattop Mountain, overlooking 6 Fork trailhead to Lower Seymour Lake the deep, cliff-flanked glacial cirques on a fall classic. It’s also a great time and 5 the Divide’s east side. The trail then drops place to hear elk bugling. But you don’t steeply into North Inlet’s rugged canyon, have to wait till summer’s over to revel in crossing a bridge over the 7 the head-twisting views of the string of gorge at North Inlet rocky 9,000- and 10,000-foot peaks along Falls on its way back the Divide. Or to camp near the numer- to your car. ous alpine lakes nestled in rocky cirques. Don’t Miss The side (Warren Lake, reflecting its namesake hike off the North In- peak, may be the prettiest.) Or fish for let Trail to photogenic trout, char, mountain whitefish, and arctic Lake Nanita, which grayling. But plan wisely: Snow in the reflects 12,000-footers passes and mosquitoes can be thick until Ptarmigan Mountain and Andrews Peak. midsummer.

Photo credit(s): Scott Bischke

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Drive Start: From MT 38, take FR 5106 past Best time Post-snow, pre-cow days of late 1 Lake. From the trailhead, follow Trails June. 29 and 111 for 5 miles to Johnson Lake and 2 Drive Start: Exit I-15 at Lima or Dell, MT, and a junction with the CDT. End: Turn off MT 43, 3 follow Big Sheep Creek Rd. (FR 257) to FR 951, west of Wise River, onto MT 274. Go 4.5 miles, which becomes Bannack Pass Rd. (FR 280) in then take FR 934 past Lower Seymour Lake . End: From Big Sheep Creek Rd. near its 2 Campground to road’s end. junction with FR 951, turn onto FR 3920. High- clearance 4WD is required for both trailheads. BEST OF THE 2 Beaverhead Mountains, MT-ID Hike Like few other spots, the 33-mile 3 Old Faithful to Summit Lake, Continental Divide 3 section from Bannack Pass to Morrison Yellowstone National Park, WY Trail 4 Lake retains the pristine character of the Hike Call this out-and-back 21-miler a 4 wilderness Lewis and Clark traversed. study in contrasts, beginning with the (The explorers crossed the Divide notable difference between the just north of here, at Lemhi first mile through the Upper Pass.) Credit the 11,000-foot 5 Geyser Basin and, well, the ramparts and the abun- rest of the planet. The 6 dant eagle, antelope, basin contains the world’s and elk populations. 5 largest concentration You’ll also navigate a of active geysers. couple of miles cross- Besides Old Faithful, 7 country to connect highlights include the unfinished pieces of polychromatic Morning trail. Navigational dis- Glory Pool and the Daisy tractions include views Geyser and Lion Group of Idaho’s Lemhi and Lost geysers. Trails parallel both River Ranges and ’s sides of the Firehole River; hike Beaverhead and Centennial both sides to see all the geothermal Mountains, and the densest concentration flare-ups. The other contrast is between of trout streams along the CDT in Idaho the hundreds of people you’ll see in the and Montana. first few miles and the solitude you’ll enjoy Photo credit(s): Larry Ulrich

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beyond the trail topography of 13,000- and 1 junction for Mystic 14,000-foot spires and 2 Falls. The CDT ridges at the sky. This 3 grows more faint section ranks among the as it crosses a 1988 CDT’s most challenging, 2 burn area, it sticks with over 16,000 feet of around long enough to elevation gain, hard hiking BEST OF THE reach a solitary campsite at high altitude, dangerous on the south shore of little- afternoon thunderstorms, route- Continental Divide 3 visited Summit Lake. If you rise finding difficulties, and remoteness. early, you’ll see elk. If you don’t, and it’s Most exposed spot: the Knife Edge, where Trail 4 September, they might just bugle you out the CDT clings to a quarter-mile-long 4 of your bag. shelf on a shale cliff a thousand feet above West Trout Creek. Drive Park at Old Faithful. Don’t Miss Good rainbow fishing at Williams 5 4 LONG AND HIGH: and Trout Lakes, both reached via short side 6 , CO hikes off the CDT northwest of the Knife Edge.

5 Conjure up a mental image of the CDT, The Way Start: From Creede, take CO 149 and this classic high-peaks traverse north for 20 miles, then turn west onto Rio is what you see. With valleys plunging Grande Reservoir Rd. (FR 520). Go .5 mile, 7 thousands of feet below your toes, it’s the bear left, and continue 19.5 miles to the first archetypal skywalk along the continent’s of several creek crossings. It’s another 13 spine. In the 94.6 miles from Stony Pass to miles to Stony Pass; park in a pullout 50 yards , you will only occasionally beyond the CDT (high-clearance 4WD vehicle needed). End: Park just off US 160, 23 miles sample the richer air below 12,000 feet. east of Pagosa Springs. Mostly above treeline, the path crosses alpine parklands of columbine and Indian 5 BEST DAYHIKE: paintbrush and passes dozens of - Monarch Crest, CO protected lakes and creeks. And all In the Rockies, you earn your around you, Colorado’s largest wilderness views with grueling climbs (500,000 acres) hurls a tortured Photo credit(s): Mark Tittel

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at elevation … except on the CDT’s 11.5 on US 285, turn west onto Rd., 1 miles from 11,312-foot Monarch Pass and drive 13 miles.

2 to 10,830-foot Marshall Pass. This 6 BEST FOR SOLITUDE: 3 spectacular dayhike starts high and stays that way, traversing a long, open ridge in South San Juan Wilderness, CO 2 the and gaining less than Grizzlies in Colorado? Most experts 900 feet over the entire distance. Virtually doubt it, but a few true believers point BEST OF THE the entire jaunt is above treeline—so you to evidence—including findings of scat get constant panoramas of jigsaw and hair—that they say suggests Continental Divide 3 ridges reaching to every horizon, the big bears still roam including the Collegiate this virtually unknown Trail 4 Peaks’ to 165,000-acre wilder- 4 the north and the rolling ness of deep canyons Cochetopa Hills to the and broad, flat ridges south. If you happen to that frequently top 5 enjoy your mountain 12,000 feet. Whether 6 odysseys on wheels, the bears are here or this may also be the best not, the 57 miles from 5 singletrack ride on the Elwood Pass to Cum- CDT, a nontechnical cruise bres Pass is undoubtedly 7 known to mountain bikers as Colorado’s loneliest and the Monarch Crest Trail. wildest CDT leg. Most of this traverse is above treeline, with Local Wisdom Most people—especially bikers—go north to south, from Monarch to hundred-mile views largely free of the Marshall, for a net drop in elevation. Start ear- imprint of civilization. Despite the griz- ly and finish by midday to get off the exposed zly speculation, there’s nothing debatable ridge before summer’s almost-daily afternoon about the top-of-the-world feeling you get thunderstorms. from stunning overlooks that yield views of deep side canyons and valleys, high lakes The Way Monarch Pass is on US 50, 18 miles west of Poncha Springs. To reach Marshall dabbed like splashes of blue paint amid Pass from Poncha Springs, go 5 miles south deep green forests and meadows, the Photo credit(s): Scott Bischke

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INSIDER TIPS AVOIDBEPACKKNOWREAD BEAR-SAFE AN UP LIGHTNINGYOUR ICE NAVIGATIONAXE AND SNOWSHOES 5 IfCook,YouTheCheck it threatens,mayCDT eat, out needis andthe about both CDTA’sdescendstore 70% in food early 4-volumecomplete, below 100 summer feettreeline. guide so from detailedin ( www.cdtrail. CO,Spreadcamp; WY, topos keepout. and 1 1 2 3 4 5 12345 AvoidfoodMT.andorg), Learngood andor solitary the toiletriesmap self-arrest 7-volume trees, skills in shallow arebearproof setskills highly from before caves, the recommendedcans; CDTS tacklingand carry water. (www. peppertrails Insuand - Click number to view tip latespraythatoftencdtsociety.or yourselfcross required.that steepyou’ve gby). sitting snow. practiced on a using.pack.

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2 distant Weminuche’s jagged skyscape, and tained trail. For nearly 40 miles from FR 3 spreading out far below. 150 to FR 226A, the CDT follows the Divide through the dramatic Black Range. To Local Wisdom The CDT here is often faint 2 and sometimes disappears; expert naviga- either side, the earth falls away abruptly, tion skills are mandatory and GPS is recom- with dropoffs of 1,000 feet to verdant valley BEST OF THE mended. bottoms where cottonwoods and willows trace the course of flowing water. You’ll Continental Divide 3 The Way This hike’s northern terminus is at walk through forests of juniper and piñon Elwood Pass: From Pagosa Springs, take US below 7,000 feet and fir, spruce, and aspen Trail 4 160 east 10.5 miles, then turn east onto East up higher, enjoying frequent views of can- 4 Fork Rd. for 19 miles. The southern terminus is .1 yons with ominous names like Deadman mile west of Cumbres and Doubtful. The quiet belies Pass on CO 17. the abundance of wild- 5 life: bears, , 7 MOST PRIMITIVE: 6 ringtails, , Aldo Leopold Wil- mountain lions, derness, NM 5 songbirds, liz- If you could go back ards, and snakes. 7 several hundred years, you’d Water is scarce— be hard-pressed to find any- carry plenty. thing different about the Don’t Miss Camp- nation’s first designated wil- ing in Reeds Mead- derness. Created in 1924, this ow, 3 miles north of 202,016-acre area is home to the Reeds Peak. Expect roughest and least visited part of visits from deer, elk, and the CDT. Even the path disappears at wild turkeys. times; expect remote, punishing country The Way Start: From NM 35, turn onto FR 150 with difficult navigation on barely main- and go 15 miles (the CDT is 2.5 miles beyond

Photo credit(s): Larry Ulrich

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2 Rocky Canyon Campground). End: From NM trailhead, at exit 218 off I-70.

3 59, turn south onto FR 226, 1.8 miles west of the Divide. Drive 5.2 miles, then turn onto FR El Malpais National Monument, NM 5 226A and continue 6.5 miles. 2 Hike Spanish explorers called this WEEKENDS: SOUTH place mal pais, or “bad land.” Decide BEST OF THE 4 , CO for yourself: It’s either a wasteland of razor-sharp lava, or a natural gallery of Continental Divide 3 Hike Colorado’s CDT resembles a busy masterworks dating back a thousand to street in places; in fact, those sections a million years. Lava tubes, cinder cones, Trail 4 open to bikes, horses, and ORVs can feel and ice caves litter the area, along with 4 like a county fair. If you’re hankering for Anasazi petroglyphs and centuries-old a weekend hike with classic, way-up- cairns built by the native Acoma and Zuni. there flavor, where you’ll only see other Backcountry camping is out; the black 5 hikers—but not many of them—check lava bakes under the sun, and water is 6 out the 19.4 miles from Berthoud Pass scarce. Stay at the park campground and to Herman Gulch trailhead. Mostly within dayhike its top three trails, the first two 5 the Vasquez Peak Wilderness, where no of which follow the CDT. The prehistoric, bikes or motors are allowed, the path 7.5-mile Zuni-Acoma Trail explores the follows a rocky course too rugged for 7 area’s oldest lava and most extensive horses. It’s a traverse that’s pure high- tubes. The obscure 14-mile trail through country splendor: Much of it soars above the Chain of Craters follows a line of 15 12,000 feet, and the apex is an unnamed, named cinder cones. And a 3-mile path 13,000-plus-foot summit with views of the leads to 165-foot-long La Ventana Arch, Gore and Holy Cross Ranges and Torreys New Mexico’s second biggest. Peak, the second-highest point on the Divide. Drive EMNM is south of Grants. Drive Endpoints are Berthoud Pass on US 40, 14 miles west of I-70, and Herman Gulch

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In 1921, when Benton MacKaye first imagined a hiking trail that would follow the crest of the East’s dominant mountain range, he 1 envisioned a people’s path, a forever-wild corridor and refuge for the millions living in nearby urban centers. Today, the trail’s 2 populist motto—“Open to all who walk”—appears on signs all along its 2,174.6 miles from Springer Mountain, Georgia, to Mt. 3 Katahdin, . And it is truly an escape hatch without peer, 1 attracting an estimated three to four million hikers a year. In the 2 following pages, we pay homage to MacKaye’s vision with the top six hikes on the nation’s first long-distance , plus our picks 3 for the best weekend in every region: 4 4 1 BEST DAYHIKE: lot, you reach Katahdin Stream Falls, 5 Mt. Katahdin, ME a 50-foot wall of misting thunder. 5 Climbing steadily, the trail emerges BEST OF THE Deep in the wilds of Maine, the AT above treeline to follow a ridge of Appalachian 6 reaches its northern terminus at a giant boulders where iron rungs are

summit whose sheer cliffs seem to installed for scaling short cliffs. At Trail 6 lend credence to the Flat Earth Soci- about 3.5 miles, the stair-like ety’s claim that the earth does have ridge suddenly gives way to its edges. There you stand, at the brink topographical antithesis, the of a 2,400-foot drop to Chimney Pond, Table Land, a mile-wide, a blue speck at the very bottom of nearly flat alpine garden one of the Northeast’s most spec- carpeted by midsummer in tacular glacial cirques. There’s simply blooms—diapensia, Lap- Photo credit(s): no other precipice like it on the AT. land rosebay, alpine azalea. George Wuerther Known to native Penobscot Indians One last uphill push brings as the “greatest mountain,” Katah- you to the main summit, din dominates its neighbors like Yao 5,267-foot Baxter Peak. There, Ming in a kindergarten class. A mile breathless from exertion, you can up the AT from the Hunt Trail parking gaze at the famous sign marking the

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AT’s northern terminus teeth: bears, blackflies, moose, 1 and feel a sliver of the sat- and some of the toughest (and isfaction thru-hikers experience when most rewarding) hiking east 2 they reach this landmark. of the Rockies. Consider the boulder-choked Mahoosuc Local Wisdom On a popular weekend, get Notch, known as “the hardest 3 to the trailhead by 8 a.m.; once parking 1 lots fill up, rangers close the trailhead. mile on the AT” because it The park accepts campsite reservations 4 sometimes reduces you to a belly 2 crawl. Or the windswept balds months in advance (207-723-5140, www. 3 baxterstateparkauthority.com); make of the Saddleback and Bigelow yours early, or you’ll be camping 30 to 90 Ranges, with their long views of 4 minutes away. Maine’s vast, uncivilized North Woods. 4 The Way From I-95 exit 56, follow ME 157 Or the trail’s true Big Lonely: the 99.4 5 west to Millinocket, then signs to Baxter miles from ME 15 north of Monson State Park. Just beyond the Togue Pond to the West Branch of the Penobscot BEST OF THE 5 gatehouse, take the left fork of the gravel River known as the Hundred Mile Appalachian Tote Road and drive 8 miles to Katahdin Wilderness. From the knee-pounding 6 Stream Campground and the Hunt/AT ruggedness of Barren Trail 6 trailhead. Mountain to the solitude 2 WILDEST MILES: of remote lakes Hundred Mile Wilder- where the only ness, ME noises come from cackling loons, Here’s a cold truth this leg is as out about the AT: Though there as the AT it often feels wild, Photo credit(s): gets. In August, Pat & Chuck Blackley, every mile is within include buffer George Wuerther a half-day’s drive of a time for gorging megalopolis—except in on blueberries— Maine. Along this state’s particularly on 281 miles, the trail shows its a short side trip up

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scenic Potaywadjo Ridge. Don’t have must suffer the letdown of leaving 1 10 days? The best abridged version the trail’s best scenery behind is a 27-miler to Gulf Hagas, only a bit so early in the game. But don’t 2 hyperbolically called the “Grand waste tears on anyone making Canyon of Maine” for its the 54-mile traverse from spectacular gorge Franconia Notch to 3 along the West Pinkham Notch. It’s 1 Branch Pleasant a hard week, due to 2 River. the trail’s steepness, 3 Don’t Miss The rockiness, and brutal 4 water slides and elevation changes swimming holes (about 14,000 feet total), 4 below Screw but it packs in more 5 Auger Falls on majesty, stride for stride, Gulf Hagas Brook, than any comparable BEST OF THE 5 via side paths in the length of the AT. The drama Appalachian first .2 mile of the Gulf begins immediately: The AT 6 Hagas Trail. rides the spine of 4-mile-long Trail 6 The Way The 27-mile Gulf Hagas hike Franconia Ridge, with nonstop views of starts on the gravel road to Katahdin ’s and an Iron Works off ME 11, 5.5 miles north of endless north-country wilderness. Brownville Junction. To leave a car at the Then come such landmarks end, follow ME 11 south 15.5 miles from as the deep, cliff-flanked its junction with ME 157 and turn west gash of Zealand Notch, the onto gravel Jo-Mary Road. After 6 miles, precipitous Webster Cliffs bear left at a fork, go 2.6 miles, and bear Photo credit(s): right at another fork. The AT crossing is high above , Tim Seaver, 14.6 miles from ME 11. and the meteorologically Chuck Summers temperamental Presidential 3 BEST WEEK: Range (shake the crowds by White Mountains, NH detouring 1 mile from Mt. Adams to Star Lake). One of the great Pity the southbound thru-hiker, who

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alpine walks in North America, this traverses eleven 4,000-footers 1 ridgeline traverse dazzles with 15 (including Wildcat Mountain’s miles of above-treeline wildflower five summits); the airiest 2 gardens, endless talus slopes, is the rocky crown of and nine of the state’s 4,675-foot Mt. Hight. highest peaks. Spend a night at 3 Carter Notch Hut 1 Don’t Miss Even if you don’t ($25–$27 per night, 2 stay at an Appalachian www.outdoors.org) Mountain Club hut, stop in 3 after breakfast to polish off to give yourself time leftover pancakes. for gazing at the dawn 4 and dusk reflections of 4 The Way Start: AT/Whitehouse Wildcat’s cliffs in the tarns at 5 trailhead, at the Flume exit off I-93 in the bottom of Carter Notch. And don’t Franconia Notch. End: 5 trailhead at the AMC Visitor Center on pass up the 5.4-mile side trip to the BEST OF THE NH 16 in Pinkham Notch. The AMC runs ledges of 3,735-foot Sherburne Moriah Appalachian 6 a hiker shuttle between these and other Mountain. trailheads (603-466-2727, www.outdoors. Tip: Sites fill up fast in summer; get one Trail 6 org/lodging/lodging-shuttle.cfm). by midday. WEEKENDS: NORTH Drive South end: AMC Visitor Center on 1 Carter-Moriah Range, NH NH 16 in Pinkham Notch. North end: 3.6 miles east of Gorham on US 2. Hike standing in the shadow of the Presidentials is like being Brad Pitt’s Southern Green Mountains, VT 2 brother Doug: You’re pretty damn Hike Maybe you’ve heard the oft- Photo credit(s): good-looking, but nobody’s pointing Michael P. Gadomski repeated stat that two-thirds of all a camera at you. Such is life for this Americans live within a day’s drive of range, which offers long stretches the AT. Spend a summer weekend on of ridgetop hiking with views into the busiest stretches, and you might Maine and the best photo ops of the think they’re all visiting at once. Which Prezzies, bar none. This 20-mile leg

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makes the 17 understand soon 1 miles between VT enough. While 11/30 and Danby- Riga doesn’t 2 Landgrove Road rival its northern (FR 10) such a great counterpart find. In a dozen-plus for ruggedness 3 1 hikes in the area, we’ve or elevation (its high never seen more than a handful of point is 2,602-foot Mt. Everett), 2 people. We think that’s because the this ridgeline ranks as the most 3 southern Greens lack the high-peak continuously scenic stretch of the AT sex appeal of the Whites (they’re also a between and . 4 bit more remote), but what these hills A great trip for new backpackers, 4 lack in sizzle and stature, they more it may also deliver the trail’s best 5 than make up for in serenity. Sure, reward-to-effort ratio. From the ledges you’ll find endless views from Bromley at Jug End, with their sweeping vista BEST OF THE 5 Mountain, but the beauty here tends north to Mt. Greylock, the hike runs Appalachian to be more intimate, ranging from the south over open terrain with long 6

dark, primordial forest on Styles and views of a Rockwellian landscape: Trail 6 Peru Peaks to picture-perfect Griffith vibrantly green hills, valleys speckled Lake to the babbling with meadows, and the occasional streams that slice through the Big sturdy farmhouse. This is a popular Branch Wilderness. hike in summer and early fall, but the Drive South end: On VT 11/30, 6 miles east trail often dries out in April and stays of Manchester Center. North end: FR 10 at snow-free into November. Big Black Branch, 3.5 miles west of US 7 Drive North end: From MA 41 in S. Egre- Photo credit(s): in Danby. mont, MA, turn west onto Mt. Washington Pat & Chuck Blackley Rd. Continue .8 mile; turn left on Avenue 3 Riga Plateau, MA-CT Rd. After .5 mile, bear left onto Jug End Hike Don’t scoff if you hear locals Rd.; parking is .3 mile ahead. South end: refer to this 17-mile section as From Salisbury, CT, go .8 mile north on CT 41 from US 44. “our ”—you’ll

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4 BEST UNKNOWN STRETCH: there’s more: In spring and early 1 James River Face Wilderness, VA summer, mountain laurel, rhododendron, and acres of 2 We know what you’re thinking: There wildflowers such as trillium are fewer secret places left and mountain lily-of- on the AT than on Paris the-valley carpet the 3 Hilton’s anatomy. route. When you tire 1 But we’ve found of all the beauty 2 one stretch and solitude, take 3 that somehow refuge in one of our escaped notice: favorite campsites, on 4 the 28 miles a scenic saddle about a 4 from Parkers mile north of Highcock 5 Gap Road to Knob. Punchbowl BEST OF THE 5 Mountain Crossing. Local Wisdom Hike north- The path passes bound to save about 5,000 feet Appalachian 6 through the 8,900-acre of climbing. Trail 6 James River Face—one of The Way Begin where the AT crosses the East’s first designated wilderness Parkers Gap Road (FR 812), .3 mile from areas. That the area remains so Sunset Field on the Blue Ridge Parkway untrammeled is a near miracle, given (milepost 78.4), and finish at the large the slideshow-quality views of the Blue parking area at milepost 51.7, which is Ridge, , Peaks of 12.2 miles north of US 501. Otter, and James River Gorge (which 5 BEST WEEKEND OVERALL: is crossed by a 625-foot pedestrian Photo credit(s): bridge, the AT’s longest). Not to Grayson Highlands, VA Willie Johnson mention highlights like the Guillotine, Picking the finest weekend hike on a huge boulder suspended over the the AT is like finding the prettiest trail, and the Devils Marbleyard, 8 snowflake in a blizzard. But this acres of fractured quartzite boulders 41-mile stretch gets our nod for its reached on a 3-mile side hike. And unmatched combination of altitude,

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scenery, flowers, and wildlife. From (milepost 78.4), and finish at the large 1 sprawling meadows above 5,000 feet, parking area at milepost 51.7, which you’ll enjoy some of the AT’s most is 12.2 miles north of US 501. 2 sustained mountain views of the Blue 6 Ridge. You’ll see wild ponies and BEST FLOWER SHOW: early-summer explosions Roan Mountain, TN-NC 3 1 of rhododendrons and OK, Roan’s Catawba azaleas. You’ll walk rhododendrons are 2 past outcroppings technically shrubs. 3 of pink and red But when these volcanic crystals bushes bloom in June, 4 on Wilburn Ridge the profusion of pink 4 while climbing and lavender makes 5 5,729-foot Mt. this 17-mile section the 5 Rogers, Virginia’s most stunningly color- BEST OF THE highest peak (on ful hike on the AT. Do the Appalachian 6 a mile-long spur). math: A mature rhodo-

You’ll crane your dendron can produce 100 Trail 6 neck to spot Whitetop flowers, and hundreds of thou- Mountain’s rare flying sands of the shrubs blanket this squirrels, plus hawks and peregrine peak—which happens to be the larg- falcons. In late summer, you’ll stuff est of southern Appalachia’s grassy your face with blueberries. And you’ll balds. Roan also boasts more rare or finish in Damascus, Virginia, justifiably endangered plants than the Smokies, known as “the friendliest town on the the highest shelter and some of the Photo credit(s): AT.” highest ground on the entire trail, and Pat & Chuck Blackley Don’t Miss Sunrises through the High- the oldest AT rock (1.8 billion years). lands’ famous morning mist. Start with a dash up 6,285-foot Roan High Knob from Carver’s Gap (3 miles The Way Begin where the AT crosses Parkers Gap Road (FR 812), .3 mile from round-trip). Then surround yourself Sunset Field on the Blue Ridge Parkway in pink by traversing the 13.7 miles

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of trail from Carvers Gap to US 19E; treatment consists of a calm- 1 hike north to south to cut your uphill ing walk through a forest of gain in half. With numerous panoramic oak, hickory, pine, red cedar, 2 views of the hemlock, and rhododendron, from meadows at and above 5,000 feet, with plentiful blueberries in it’s widely considered one of the trail’s late summer. It will move on to 3 most scenic sections. water therapy, with a visit to the 1 Local Wisdom To get the most colorful peaceful bowl of Sunfish Pond, a 2 National Natural Landmark and rhododendron photos, put your camera 3 and wide-angle lens on a tripod inches the AT’s southernmost glacial pool, above the closest flowers (but angled up and a 3.2-mile round-trip side hike to 4 so you have a deep background of moun- 75-foot Buttermilk Falls, New Jersey’s 4 tains), shoot when the sun’s low, and highest. And if you (wisely) hike in fall, 5 expose at 1/15 second in a breeze to get your remedy will climax with sightings some interesting blur. Shoot at f16 of migrating hawks and bald BEST OF THE 5 or higher to get detail in the and golden eagles. Because mountains. Appalachian the trek is relatively easy, 6 The Way Start: Carvers fit hikers should con- Trail 6 Gap is on NC 261/TN sider adding the 14.3 143, south of the town miles from Culvers of Roan Mountain, TN. Gap north to High End: Where the AT Point (NJ 23). crosses US 19E south- east of Roan Mountain Drive South end: Under and north of Elk Park, the I-80 bridge (NJ side) NC. at the Delaware Water Gap. Photo credit(s): North end: On US 206 at Cul- George Senft WEEKENDS: SOUTH vers Gap in Stokes State Forest. 4 Kittatinny Ridge, NJ George Washington National 5 Hike sprawling metro region? Where? Forest, VA This 28-mile ridge traverse is a tonic for city-weary souls. Your de-stressing Hike we can’t promise you’ll bump

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into moonshiners or Confederate gun room in the shelters. In summer 1 stashes—but we can’t guarantee you and fall, the 32 miles from won’t. Rebel troops turned the Tye to the Great 2 River Valley into a supply route during Smoky Mountains National the Civil War; rumrunners also plied Park’s eastern boundary is a these secluded mountains during quiet, even mystical ridgecrest 3 Prohibition. The 28 miles from Reeds stroll above the famed valley 1 Gap south to Salt Log Gap also serves fog. Mostly above 5,000 feet, the 2 up killer views (best: Chimney Rock trail passes numerous views of 3 and Hanging Rock), wildflowers (tril- lush mountains and deep valleys of lium, fire pink, and Turk’s cap lily), virgin forest; the Smokies contain 90 4 old trees (wild cherry, mountain ash, percent of the East’s remaining old- 4 and gnarled chestnut oak), and even growth. Highlights include the views 5 solitude in the Three Ridges and Priest from the Jump-Off (via the Boulevard Wilderness Areas. From April through Trail), Charlies Bunion, Bradleys BEST OF THE 5 June, detour on Crabtree Falls Trail View, Deer Creek Gap, and the Mt. Appalachian for blooming rhododendron and azalea Cammerer lookout tower (a 1.2-mile 6

around numerous cascades. side trip). Don’t let the ridgetop-hike Trail 6 Drive South end: On VA 664 in Reeds Gap, description fool you—there are 11 immediately east of Blue Ridge Parkway major climbs and descents along the (mile 13.6). End: From US 60, a mile west way. of Long Mountain Wayside, turn north on Drive South end: Newfound Gap on INSIDER TIPS VA 634 (becomes FR 63); go 7.1 miles to TN 71/US 441 in GSMNP. North end: In 5 Salt Log Gap. Davenport Gap at TN 32/SR 1397, near 1 2 3 4 5 I-40 exit 451. Click number to view tip 6 Newfound Gap to Davenport Gap, NC-TN DITCHKNOWCARRYSKIP THE YOUR THELESS SUNBLOCK WEATHERWAY TENTSTUFF UnlessATheOnlyMost ranger Thru-Hiker’s in of the youthe once driest expectAT toldis insummersHandbook crowds, usthe that woods, thebugs, and by Smokies soBob in or leave the cold“501” central itsee weather, behind. McCaw more AT Hike A caveat up front: Avoid this hike dropcases($22.50;willDitto you thosefor of hike www.trailplace.cobughypothermia 6 morepoundsdope, thanexcept and than 4 sleep hoursinm the )NH is Whites—becausein a withoutand perennialone ME of hittingtheduring bestAT’s during the late-April-to-May thru- 34512 manyselleraJune spring and three-sidedhikersfor or goodJuly. stream. don’t Andreason. shelters.pack inLikewise, many Get warm sectionMostplaces, townsenough have mapsyou come forroom can fromthe often for the at hiker rush, because there won’t be leastinclementATCenoughstreamline (304-535-6331; six, that and conditions your you they first-aidrarely appear www.appalachiantrail.or that need canlikekit, to becausesetclockwork pack in suddenlymore a road almost thang and).above 3 to every4,0004hospital days 8feet. of miles. are grub never lineand yourfargas. away. first-aid kit, because a road and hospital are never far away.

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