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Home , Billingsgate, Borough Market, Bread Street, Cheapside, Covent Garden, Horace Jones (architect)

07 Changing 12 07 Changing London Changing London

AN HISTORIC CITY FOR A MODERN WORLD

NEXT ISSUE SAVING LONDON LONDON’S SPORTING HERITAGE MARKETS WHAT HAS BEEN HAPPENING WITH SOME OF With the 2012 Olympics being held in London, LONDON’S HISTORIC BUILDINGS we will be looking at the wide variety of Reminders of London’s ancient markets are all But it is not only in the centre of London that historic buildings and sites associated with around in the capital’s street names: medieval markets add to the character of an area. Across sport in the capital down the centuries. , 17th century Haymarket, 18th the city, around one hundred general and century Shepherd Market… specialist markets of all sorts bring life and Markets have always had an impact on vitality to our streets, often reflecting something London’s built environment.The splendid of the nature of the communities in which they market hall designed by Horace have developed. New markets, such as the Jones in 1874 is a reminder of the area’s burgeoning ‘Farmers’ Markets’, bring a temporary association with fish (and bad language!) even village air to several London neighbourhoods. though the market itself moved to the Isle of In this issue of Changing London we look at Dogs in 1982.The attractive Victorian market this rich and diverse aspect of the capital. buildings of Leadenhall and Smithfield are still in use, although there are concerns about the future of Smithfield. CHARNEL HOUSE BRUSHFIELD STREET In advance of major redevelopment of the western area of the former Spitalfields horticultural market, archaeological investigation unearthed the substantial remains of a 14th century charnel house associated with the priory of St Mary Spital. Used as a repository for bones from earlier burials, disturbed when new graves were dug, it was converted into a house after the Dissolution and then demolished to ground level in about 1700 and its crypt covered with earth. Following close consultation between English Heritage, the developers and their architects, the CONTACT DETAILS

substantial remains have been preserved in situ.They can be viewed from To receive this publication regularly, please send in above through glass panels, and from the side via a sunken courtyard, your address details to: all situated within public open space off Brushfield Street. Richard Dumville (Regional Policy Officer) London Region, English Heritage ST GEORGE’S 23 Savile Row, London, W1S 2ET

BLOOMSBURY Alternatively you can e-mail us at Designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor [email protected]

and built between 1716 and 1731. Additional copies can be obtained from English It has a stepped spire, which was Heritage Customer Services – call 0870 333 1181. inspired by Pliny’s description of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (modern Bodrum in Turkey). A major programme of restoration Published by English Heritage costing £6.75m is currently Edited by Richard Dumville and Gordon Dulieu underway, with major contributions Designed by Real 451 from English Heritage, the Heritage Printed by Colourhouse Lottery Fund and the World Cover image: Monuments Fund.This important grade I listed church will fully All images © Richard Dumville/English Heritage except © Boris Baggs re-open in October 2006. Borough p.7 © Derek Kendall/English Heritage www.stgeorgesbloomsbury.org.uk/ Leadenhall © www.britainonview.com www.thebeasts.info/. © www.britainonview.com Romford © London Borough of Havering St Pancras © Press Association Clapton Portico © Keith Collie CONTENTS 6/7 10 Spitalfields © Andy Chopping/MoLAS Borough Farmers’ Markets Lords © www.britainonview.com 2/3 Historic markets Leadenhall 11/12 Product code: 50941 in London 8/9 News stories across 4/5 Romford London Region Smithfield Bermondsey Covent Garden 07 Changing London 2/3

SUSIE BARSON OF ENGLISH HERITAGE’S ‘Markets hold an historic place in the life of our ARCHITECTURAL INVESTIGATION TEAM TAKES A towns and cities and play an important role in LONDON’S LOOK AT THE DIVERSE AND FASCINATING HISTORY MARKETS OF THE CAPITAL’S MARKETS. promoting their civic identity and regeneration’

From , Camden Lock and language of its porters, dockers and Cheapside were closed; others at markets of licenses and places to , closed to Electric Avenue, fishwives.The market remained on Leadenhall, , and Billingsgate operate while allowing sites to be in 1982, now an events space. The first national survey of Columbia Road and Walthamstow, the site until 1982, when archaic were rebuilt as covered markets developed by supermarkets or high markets has recently London’s markets provide distinctive facilities, traffic on the newly built under Royal Charter. Many private street chains, or replace been published. Visit local colour. Lower Thames Street and threats of landlords were granted charters to with fund-raising car www.nabma.com/news for more information. redevelopment of the site forced hold markets on their land: Covent parks. Businesses that relocate away London has always been a market To read about the efforts being the market out to the . Garden was the first of these to from the centre have caused some town. Established by the Romans in made in support of markets appear in 1670. Others followed at of London’s central markets to across the U.K. see the 1st century A.D. Borough Market, with a history Carnaby Market, , decline as they rely on the trade of www.marketsquared.co.uk became a thriving centre of almost as old as Billingsgate’s, is a Shepherd Market and Oxford local workers.Tourist stalls are For fascinating historical insights commerce importing and selling small fruit and vegetable market Market, near . replacing commodities such as visit www.victorianlondon.org.uk olive oil, wine, pottery, glass and which began operating in the 13th traditional fruit and vegetables; marble.Trading took place in the century close to the old London The arrival of the railways from the mid-19th century had a major Covent Garden is a prime example forum, close to the present . Granted a charter by of this. However, conversley, . In the late 9th Edward VI in the mid -16th century, impact on London’s markets. In the 1860s and ‘70s new foodstuffs could Farmers’ markets selling fresh, locally century re- in the mid -18th century it moved grown produce are making a good established London as a major port, to Rochester Yard west of Borough be brought into town from further away, and sold at markets close to comeback in some parts of London, rebuilding its defences and High Street and remains there to particularly in the suburbs. establishing new wharves and this day. stations. Conversely many markets waterside markets at Billingsgate were cleared away as a result of the The dispersal of traditional markets and , which encouraged railways, increased traffic and means that many market structures the growth of transport and trade tramlines. Bermondsey Antiques have been swept away, but in fish, grain, salt and timber, and Market moved to its present site sometimes associated buildings have later, iron and coal. By the 12th after the Second World War. Others survived, some of architectural or century, the had were forced off their sites because historic interest.The earliest several markets around what is now of wartime bomb damage.The surviving purpose built market hall is called Cheapside (ceap was the post-war influence of various at Covent Garden (1828-30 and Saxon word for market), providing immigrant communities has later); other Victorian examples food, cloth, and leather.Within the breathed new life into a number of survive at Smithfield (1866-68), City walls each craft or trade had traditional markets especially Billingsgate (1877), and Leadenhall lodges in their respective area. Brixton, Shepherd’s Bush and Ridley (1881).These important examples Street names recall them: Cornhill, Road, but several have closed or are are listed, as are smaller market ,Wood Street, Milk dying: Hammersmith Market, buildings at Greenwich and around Street, and Poultry. Old Columbia Market, demolished 1960. Lambeth Walk, Burdett Road and Shepherd Market, and remnants Chatsworth Road – Victorian such as the former market clock The growth of London in the From at least the 12th century, a livestock market was established at markets that have all but gone. at Caledonian Road (pictured Middle Ages caused an increase in here). Many adapt to new retail or wholesale trade. Larger trading fairs Smithfield north-west of the city Markets today are facing a number walls. Every Friday, sheep, pigs and of challenges to their survival. commercial use; others occupy held annually were established at valuable land and face an uncertain Smithfield in the 12th century cattle were driven through the Supermarkets increasingly deal streets of London to be slaughtered directly with suppliers and not future such as at Spitalfields and (Bartholomew Fair and Cloth Fair) Smithfield, while some such as and in the 13th and and sold.This practice came to an through the market place; the high end in 1852 and the site was value of land in London encourages Borough find renewed vigour as 14th centuries, attracting foreign retail trading replaces wholesale, and merchants to sell textiles, furs and covered with the large and owners to profitably develop on elaborate purpose-built market land previously used for markets; the build a new customer base. English spices.Three of the city’s great Heritage encourages the wholesale markets date from the buildings designed by the City undesirable and unsociable aspects architect , for the sale of some markets can also continuation of traditional use Middle Ages: Billingsgate, Borough wherever possible. Markets hold an Market and Smithfield. Billingsgate, of butchered meat. It is one of the contribute to their demise. Major few great medieval markets to impacts on market trading, both historic place in the life of our which for 900 years occupied a site towns and cities and play an in the City close to Lower Thames remain on its original site. wholesale and retail, include altered shopping habits, depopulation in important role in promoting their Street, began as a general market With increased trade in the 16th and civic identity and regeneration – the but was subsequently used by 17th centuries new markets central areas, gentrification, and antagonistic council laws. very antidote to the ‘cloning’ of our wholesalers trading in coal, corn and appeared at Whitecross Street and high streets. fish. It was devoted exclusively to , coinciding with the London councils vary in their fish by the mid -16th century, and banning of street markets within the attitudes to the markets in the gained a reputation for the colourful City walls.The old markets around boroughs. Some starve the street 07 Changing London 4/5

ROGER MASCALL REFLECTS ON SMITHFIELD’S PAST – AND CONTEMPLATES ITS FUTURE COVENT GARDEN: SMITHFIELD: SAVED IN CONTRAST TO THE UNCERTAINTIES OVER SMITHFIELD,THE REVAMPED COVENT GARDEN FUTURE UNCERTAIN CONTINUES TO BE A RESOUNDING SUCCESS, AS JOHN GREENACOMBE REPORTS. Smithfield, or “smooth-field” has been buildings began.The impressive New Few post-war changes in central Before long, the market outgrew serious consideration.The passing of character’ stretching from the site of a meat market since at Metropolitan Meat and Poultry London have had such an Fowler’s building and began to an Act of Parliament in1964 Square to Lincoln’s Inn Fields. least the 12th century, when animals, Market, designed by the City immediate impact on the character spread into the surrounding streets, sanctioning the move to However, most of the surrounding driven in from the surrounding Architect, Horace Jones, was built of a district as the removal in causing widespread congestion.The signalled an exceptional opportunity buildings were to be sacrificed to countryside were sold, slaughtered over the intersection of these lines November 1974 of the three- private owners of the market, now to re-plan an important and historic ‘comprehensive redevelopment’. and the meat retailed in the nearby in 1866. Its four corner towers hundred-year old flower, fruit and the Dukes of Bedford, and their area in the heart of London. A draft Among its now more incredible butchers’ quarter known as the contained refreshment rooms for vegetable market from its original advisers tackled this problem by redevelopment plan was drawn up. proposals was a new sunken road, “Shambles” (along present day workers and visitors, and a high site in Covent Garden to a new providing additional premises The Draft Plan of 1968 called for four-lanes wide, to relieve the Newgate Street). Its increasing degree of decoration was given to home at Nine Elms. Founded in outside the area specifically the retention of Fowler’s central Strand of eastbound traffic. But the success was the spur for both the exterior brick and stone 1670, under a charter granted by designated for the market in the market as part of a ‘line of timing of the plan could not have development of the surrounding and internal ironwork, all now listed Charles II to the owner of Covent original charter. A new Flower been more unfortunate. Public and lanes, becoming lined with inns, grade II*. In the period up to 1892, Garden, the Earl of Bedford, the Market was built (1871-87) and ‘Public and local opinion local opinion had begun to turn houses and tenements, for both a further four new market halls market had originally been confined later a new Foreign Flower Market had begun to turn against grandiose and faceless visitors and numerous spin-off trades were constructed, of which the to the central square or Piazza, known as the Jubilee Hall (1904). against faceless developments: the Covent Garden such as button dealers, tanners’ Poultry Market (listed grade II) was where it was overlooked by Inigo The overcrowding continued, and Plan was one of the first and most merchants and bacon curers (thus completely rebuilt following a fire in Jones’s church and arcades. In although the unsuitability of the developments, and the spectacular victims of this backlash. forming one of London’s earliest 1961-63.This huge development with 1828-30 the jumble of stalls in the Covent Garden area for trading on Covent Garden Plan suburbs). A popular location for many its accompanying offices, warehouses Piazza were replaced by a this scale had long been recognised, other activities; tournaments, jousting, and cold stores (many associated handsome and regular stone market it wasn’t until the market finally was one of the first To read more about the history wrestling and archery to name but with well-known names such as building, designed by Charles Fowler of the site and its architecture passed into public ownership in and most spectacular visit www.covent-garden.co.uk a few – it also hosted the popular Dewhurst and Vestey) resulted in the – the glazed roofs were added later 1961 that the matter was given annual three-day Bartholomew Fair, street pattern and buildings which in the century. victims of this backlash.’ and witnessed a number of form the special character of the executions (including that of William area today – most of which is within Wallace and Wat Tyler). Inevitably, a conservation area. this growth (and its location on the By the 1970s, the market had margins of the City) also attracted through Farringdon Station, making The increasing pressures that this entered a period of decline, and its fair share of prostitutes, criminals it potentially the second busiest in area will be facing in coming years although a major programme of and the down at heel. Spared the London after Oxford Circus. In the means that there is a need to modernisation by the Corporation ravages of the “Great Fire” this Mayor’s , Farringdon is understand the ‘big picture’ of what in the 1990s (to comply with EU colourful, if rarely wholesome, mix identified as an Area for makes Smithfield and its environs food hygiene regulations) enabled of pursuits continued right through Intensification, i.e. where public so special. Not just identifying its the meat and poultry markets to to the mid 19th century, when, transport accessibility is to be surviving historic elements, but also continue to trade, the unlisted late with the expansion of London and exploited to seek potential looking at how change might be 19th century General Market changing attitudes, the Corporation increases in residential, employment incorporated in ways that meet new bordering Farringdon Road was was forced to address the dreadful and other uses through the uses, whilst sustaining and enhancing taken out of use, along with the conditions afflicting both man creation of higher densities and the special qualities of the area as adjacent contemporary former fish and beast. more mixed and intensive use. a whole. Early work commissioned market/cold store annex. Major Indeed, there is currently an by English Heritage to produce such changes in the meat trade over ‘This very special sense application for the demolition of a framework has commenced, and recent years has seen many the unlisted former General Market it is hoped that this will enable of place is a fragile buildings in the area take on new block on Farringdon Street and Smithfield to move forward uses as a vibrant mixed economy thing, easily diluted replacement with a new 8-storey confidently; retaining and reinforcing has grown up around the market and degraded by office development providing its existing character while adding complex. However, this very special ground floor retail space.There is yet more layers to its long and unsympathetic sense of place is a fragile thing, a general presumption against the colourful history. easily diluted and degraded by development or loss demolition of buildings which form unsympathetic development or loss an intrinsic part of the character of important buildings’ of important buildings. of a conservation area, unless their With the convergence of the new Situated on the City fringe, the area replacement preserves or enhances To see some images of the Metropolitan and Great Western is under increasing pressure for that character and similarly Smithfield down the years visit http://viewfinder.english- Railway lines at Farringdon by 1863, development.The proposed east- preserves the settings of adjacent heritage.org.uk/ clearance of the site for new market west Crossrail route will pass and nearby listed buildings. 07 Changing London 6/7

BOROUGH: REJUVENATED BOROUGH MARKET HAS UNDERGONE A TRUE RENAISSANCE, MAINTAINS CHAIRMAN OF THE TRUSTEES, GEORGE NICHOLSON.

for a Floral Market building adjacent additional challenge. Following to Cathedral.The Market an initial public inquiry, it was Trustees have no plans to use the successfully argued that the affected newly erected structure for a floral structures would be dismantled and market as such. However, the re-erected close to their original Portico forms the frontage to a position for continued market use new structure which will be home if the scheme goes ahead. A further to a range of different stalls within public inquiry was held this autumn the nationally acclaimed retail food to resolve outstanding issues such market as well as host to a new as the effect of the viaduct on the British restaurant at first floor level conservation area in which the called “Roast”. Market sits. As anyone who has visited Borough will know, this is ‘We’ve come a very not the first time a railway has long way from the stark been introduced.The Trustees are confident given the increasing picture of the mid 90s, success of the Market, that even the result of long term if the present scheme is given the decline of the market, go-ahead it will survive and indeed thrive. lack of funds and the Borough Market has become inevitable deterioration synonymous with what a quality of its historic structures.’ food market should be – in 2004 it was awarded “Best Market in the All this is a very long way from the UK” by the Observer Newspaper stark picture facing the Trustees in food magazine, having grown in just the mid 90s as a result of the long seven years from six stalls to over LEADENHALL:THRIVING term decline of the wholesale one hundred. In 2006 it celebrates market with the consequent lack its 250th birthday on its present LEADENHALL MARKET CLOSE BY IS STILL GOING STRONG of funds and the inevitable site and is to be twinned with DESPITE CHANGES IN THE LIFESTYLE OF CITY WORKERS AND RESIDENTS. deterioration of its historic Barcelona’s La Boqueria Market ALAN GARTRELL, DIRECTOR OF BRIDGE HOUSE ESTATES HAS AN UPDATE. structures.The first step of a 10 – – the first in a wider European year revival plan – an architectural initiative.With related shop-based The Corporation of London is Milan and is a riot of cast iron, stone all the traditional trades have gone challenges for retailers despite the competition in 1995 – led to the trade already in place, others such preparing to celebrate 600 years and brick by the architect of Tower and the market has had to reinvent proximity of Lloyds and a wider appointment of architects Greig & as bakeries, coffee shops and of running Leadenhall Market. Dick Bridge and Smithfield Market. itself again. range of banks, brokers and finance Stephenson who had recently been specialist stores were quick to set Whittington, a real figure and three Pevsner writes of ‘dragons cheekily The Corporation’s vision for the houses. responsible for the restoration of up site near the Market. Many local times Lord Mayor, purchased the squeezed in’ and ‘lots of stamped Market is to maintain and enhance The Corporation now aims to With the installation of the restored reminder of past glories has now Leeds’ stunning Victorian indoor businesses are now open at Leaden Hall in 1409, when it had and cast detail excellently picked its historical authenticity and create provide a wide mix of mid-range Portico to the former Floral Hall re-emerged – fulfilling the dual market. In turn this led to a weekends for the first time, all already been a flourishing market out in rich colours’ – qualities a tenant mix that will provide a retail outlets including fashion. from Covent Garden, Borough needs to find a proper and fitting successful bid for government playing a major part in rebuilding for a hundred years – and more: reflected in its grade II* listing. unique retail experience.The careful A particular success has been to Market is fast becoming the focus home for the historic structure from funding under the Single the economy of the area.The the Roman forum stood on this The Market again moved on, with restoration and maintenance noted make the Market a destination of for the revival not just of this the former Covent Garden market, Regeneration Budget scheme. ongoing rejuvenation of Borough site in the 2nd century A.D. its traditional meat and poultry by Pevsner, draws out the exquisite choice for eating, and restaurants ancient market in Central London, and to reinstate an example of the Funding from surplus property Market sees it confidently on course It was originally a market to control business relocating to Smithfield High Victorian atmosphere of the have colonised previously but also the surrounding area. delicate iron and glass features that sales and additional help from the for the next century and beyond. the standard and quality of cheese between the wars. Some traditional Market.The Corporation is underused buildings. Events, Borough is London’s oldest once graced Stoney Street. All this London Development Agency but moved to trading in meat and shops remained, adjuncts of these cooperating with its tenants to concerts and film shows support wholesale market, having traded the product of a chance enquiry completed the £7m funding package poultry, until in the late 19th century wholesale trades and serving reinstall historic shops fronts where the traders and introduce people from its present site since 1756 – with House some for the first phase of regeneration. the Corporation had to take steps directors’ dining rooms. Now, with they have been lost over time. to an architectural gem that is not archive pictures reveal just what a 10 years ago! Further, more modest refurbishment to move the unruly and noxious the exception of one fishmonger, Traditional spiked game racks have as well known as it deserves to be. magnificent set of buildings used to It is not just the age (it dates from phases remain to be tackled. hide market. been retained. Attempts to promote exist on the present site almost at 1856) and nature of the structure As if trying to develop an entirely To learn more of the At that time the City Architect, ‘Our vision for Leadenhall traditional traders have been more the foot of London Bridge. Fire restoration work and the that makes the Portico so new retail market on a building site difficult despite the offer of For further information visit Market itself visit Sir Horace Jones, was instructed Market is to maintain damage, the arrival of railways and substantially discounted rents. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/corpor appropriate to its new setting, as was not enough, the threat of a new www.gands.co.uk and to design a new market.The 1880 war have eaten into that historic and enhance its historical Changes in shopping patterns and ation/our_services/markets the Market’s archives have recently railway viaduct (Thameslink 2000) www.boroughmarket.org.uk construction shows the influence legacy. But, with the arrival of the revealed an earlier unrealised plan going through the Market is an authenticity.’ the City’s five day week poses Portico (see front cover), a vivid of the Victor Emmanuel Galleria in 07 Changing London 8/9

STEVEN BRINDLE, ENGLISH HERITAGE’S INSPECTOR OF ANCIENT MONUMENTS, BERMONDSEY: REPORTS ON RECENT ARCHAEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS. ANTIQUES ABOVE...... ARCHAEOLOGY BELOW LONDON’S LARGEST The Borough of Southwark has, after 1538.Thereafter, the buildings were much-loved market place.The aims Ultimately we hope that, on ANTIQUES AND the City of London itself, the capital’s cleared and their materials recycled are to preserve as much of the completion of the investigative COLLECTIBLES MARKET HAS richest archaeology. Bermondsey, with remarkable thoroughness, and mediaeval archaeology as possible, works, both the Borough and the ‘Beormund’s Eyot,’ was one of a by 1900, the site was entirely while allowing the foundations to developers will have agreed a way SEEN SOME DOWNSIZING series of islets amid the mudflats covered with terraced houses, be designed around it, thus allowing forward for this sensitive site, that IN RECENT YEARS – BUT IT on the of the Thames, warehouses, Abbey Street and the redevelopment, but also achieving not only provides opportunities for REMAINS A VIBRANT PLACE occupied in Roman and Saxon times market square. Several generations a better understanding of the the future (including retaining the FOR EARLY RISERS IN as suburbs of the City. Shortly after of antiquaries and archaeologists archaeology. Investigation is being market) but protects the remains SEARCH OF A BARGAIN, the Norman Conquest, a great have struggled to reconstruct the carried out by Pre-Construct of its fascinating past FOR THE MOMENT AT Cistercian nunnery was founded plan of the Abbey, but the evidence Archaeology, funded by developers LEAST,AS GORDON here, followed soon after by a large has proved complex and difficult to Urban Catalyst through which a Benedictine Abbey.This seems to interpret (the remains are scheduled foundation design is emerging, as is For more on the proposals for DULIEU REPORTS. have gone up remarkably quickly, to acknowledge their historic a much clearer idea (after 200 years the Square visit making it one of the first generation importance, but none of them of trying!) of the Abbey complex. www.southwark.gov.uk/YourSer Markets sometimes have a vices/RegenerationSection/berm of really large Romanesque buildings are visible above ground level). One unexpected surprise was a deceptive air of permanence, even ondseysquareregen/ to go up in , contemporary small 17th century burial ground, if they only happen on a few days Southwark Council, as freeholders The Antique Market is open on with the White Tower in the Tower of probably associated with a Fridays from 06.00 until about each week.Visiting the antique of the market site, are seeking to London and Old St Paul’s Cathedral. Dissenters’ Chapel, necessitating midday. market at Bermondsey, one has develop it in a way which maximises the lifting of about 50 partial or For archaeological reports visit the impression that it’s always been Bermondsey Abbey stood, apparently its economic value, while www.pre-construct.com complete skeletons. there – but that’s untrue: until the largely intact, until the Dissolution in safeguarding its social value as a Second World War, it was actually trading by Caledonian Road in Islington, set up among the empty livestock pens on Fridays (animals ROMFORD: were sold on Mondays and Thursdays). pedlars dealt in bric-a-brac from emptied attics and lumber rooms and the market STILL GOING became known as a haunt for bargain hunters. By the beginning of the 20th century, the cattle market was declining and there was an STRONG increasing interest in antiques. By FEW INSTITUTIONS CAN BOAST A USEFUL AND UNBROKEN EXISTENCE 1924, the General Market as it was COVERING SEVEN AND A HALF CENTURIES,YET CAN DO known was extended to Tuesdays. Stolen goods and general junk JUST THIS SAYS HAVERING’S ASSISTANT TOWN CENTRE MANAGER, JANE EASTAFF. flowed in and some of the The of Romford has early centre for the leather trade. An infamous Colonel Blood who from the old church on the site notorious ‘Caledonian Silver Kings’ grown from a small Roman old Essex saying,“go to Romford to attempted to steal the Crown Jewels together with stone from John made fortunes. But the war settlement (on the road to be bottomed”, refers to the plentiful in the 1670s. Nash's elegant Quadrant in Regent brought it all to a halt and the Chelmsford) with a population of supply of good leather breeches to Street.The church replaced the stallholders were not allowed back. Records indicate that Romford was just 1,000 to 50 times that number. be found here. Over time, the market home to numerous hostelries during earlier chapel of St Edward the It was time to find a new site and Probably one of the best traditional became an agricultural centre selling Confessor consecrated in 1410. in 1965, the New Caledonian the 19th century when the market open air markets in the country, fruit and vegetables, farm tools and was at its peak. A number are still Romford has gone from strength to Market (its official name) opened Romford Market (pictured here in clothing. In 1892 the precursor of the in Bermondsey Street. with us such as the Golden Lion. strength and is now considered to keeping the market traditions of off to a provincial fair such as diminishes and tastes for collectibles 1910) has been trading since it was Council, the local board, bought the Thought to be one of the two be the biggest metropolitan centre One dealer who has been trading Bermondsey going – for the time Ardingley. I like to think we’re a bit change. It’s just part of the first granted permission by King market and it is still owned and remaining coaching inns in London, outside central London. At its heart is there since soon after the move being at least.’The dealers may be like the travelling players of the continued flux of London life – Henry III in September 1247. managed by Havering Council. this grade II listed building dating the unique, thrice-weekly, 750 year old recalls ‘There were always markets on the move again before too long 18th century, the ‘pomping folk’ – after all, even the great Bermondsey Originally a livestock market, it owes No town history would be complete from around 1450 continues to selling point: Romford Market itself! of some sort in this area – there as regeneration plans are very and if we have to move on again, Abbey which once dominated the its existence to the stamina of sheep. without a certain amount of trade today. was a leather market serving the much in the air.The traders don’t it won’t too much of a wrench.’ area is now just a memory, its Traditionally, markets were no less notoriety. In 1831 a Thomas The Church of St Edward the local tanning industries in seem unduly worried. One Not everyone agrees but the market sometime presence marked only than two leagues, or six miles apart – Newcombe is recorded for bringing Confessor that overlooks the market For information on visiting the Leathermarket Street nearby, for commented, ‘Antique dealers are a has already seen a reduction in the by the archaeological remains the manageable daily walking distance his wife in a halter to Romford and is also grade II listed.This Victorian for livestock. Market see example.That went as the trade mobile lot. It might be Portobello number of stalls in recent years as which Steven Brindle reports on auctioning her off. And some local building was built by John Johnson in www.havering.gov.uk/business declined but we antique dealers are one day, Bermondsey another, then the available stock of antiques opposite. In the fifteenth century it was an traders can recall tales of the 1849, re-using some of the stone 07 Changing London 10/11

FARMERS’ MARKETS SAVING LONDON

WHAT HAS BEEN HAPPENING WITH SOME OF LONDON’S HISTORIC BUILDINGS

FARMERS’ MARKETS HAVE BEEN A GREAT SUCCESS THE STORY OVER THE LAST DECADE OR MORE, BRINGING COVENT GARDEN SEASONAL AND UNUSUAL PRODUCE The once soot encrusted and decaying façade of the Garrick Club TO LONDON NEIGHBOURHOODS IN THE BEST (grade II* 1860) in Garrick Street, has recently undergone a magnificent TRADITION OF LOCAL MARKETS OF CENTURIES transformation. English Heritage worked closely with Westminster City GONE BY. GORDON DULIEU TAKES A CLOSER LOOK. Council and Richard Griffiths Architects in agreeing conservation work that included the careful cleaning of the architectural details and the replacement of hard cement facing with lime render and a lime wash. covers some 1,572 ‘Many farmers are now establishing The fine balance in tone between the cleaned stone detailing and the km2 of which 135 km2 are devoted links with restaurants and other re-rendering has revealed the Italian Palazzo style architecture as its to agricultural production and farmed food outlets in London, selling to architect, Frederick Marrable, originally intended. woodland.This represents just 8.4% them directly.The markets provide of the total regional land area, the hub to make it viable to drive www.garrickclub.co.uk compared with 81% in England as to London. Farmers can then sell at a whole and 62% in the South East. market and deliver to retailers.We Nonetheless, more than a dozen estimate that at least 50% of our farmers’ markets are a vibrant farmers would not be in business if addition to the city’s life from Ilford the London markets did not exist.’ to Twickenham and Palmers Green They seem to bring a real sense of to . local belonging to the areas where The aim of these markets, according they set out their stalls.Take the THE ST PANCRAS WATERPOINT to the company London Farmers’ Saturday market in Orange Square Built in 1872 to supply water to the steam locomotives at St Pancras, by Markets which supports and in .The local residents 1996 this grade II listed structure faced demolition as it stood in the regulates them is to provide spearheaded a scheme to refurbish way of the huge Channel Tunnel Rail Link development. However, Londoners with fresh local food, and the square, once the site of the following a major operation by English Heritage and the Heritage of farmers with a good return for their famous 18th century Ranelagh London Trust, it was was split into sections and moved 700 yards to a work. Producers come from within Gardens, a place of resort and new permanent location overlooking St Pancras Yacht Basin on the 100 miles of the M25, raising, growing entertainment. A delightful statue Regent’s Canal, for use by British Waterways as a reception and or baking everything they sell. of Mozart as a child (he wrote his exhibition area.The cost of almost £900,000 was met by a wide range It’s estimated that they bring £3m first Symphony just around the of funding partners. corner from the square) was back to the rural economy each www.heritageoflondon.com year. A spokesperson for LFM said, commissioned and paid for by those who live in the vicinity and www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/ConWebDoc.5280 the weekly market completes the ‘Farmers’ markets are also helping to address many sense of a cohesive local community. food issues in London, from Or consider London’s largest encourage sustainable education to food poverty.The aim farmers’ market in . It’s agriculture, traditional is to increase the availability of fruit THE CLAPTON PORTICO not as attractive a venue as Orange animal breeds and and vegetables to sectors of the HACKNEY Square – in fact it’s one of the last population who do not have access large bombsites left in central heritage fruit and to healthy foods, and develop ways In Linscott Road, near Lower Clapton Road, sits the grade II listed London (off Cramer Street behind vegetable varieties and of increasing both school based and remains of what for many years was the Salvation Army’s first Marylebone High Street). However, reduce the gap between adult nutrition education across headquarters, but which began life in the 1820s as the London Orphan the Howard De Walden Estate London. Asylum. Fading fortunes led to demolition in the mid-1970s, leaving just rural and urban the impressive Greek portico and flanking colonnades sitting as a feature which owns much of the land in There are unexpected benefits too: within the grounds of Clapton Girls School. After 25 years without a use, this valuable area of the capital communities.’ ‘Children love seeing Brussels and with deterioration setting in, a brief was drawn up in 2002 for the made a deliberate policy to sprouts on the stalk and may even repair and restoration of the structure and a new extension to the rear, encourage specialist food shops to London Farmers’ Markets sum it up be persuaded to eat them!’ Anyone creating a learning resource centre for teaching I.T. skills to Hackney set up business in the High Street like this: ‘There are social benefits for Tay berries or striped beetroot? and the weekly farmers’ market to the markets. People get to meet schoolchildren and the local community. Funded mostly by Government adds that extra touch that makes their neighbours.They talk to people grant, but with assistance from English Heritage and the Heritage Lottery the locale a real destination. and swap recipes. It has become Fund, the impressive new centre (Brady Mallalieu architects) successfully This is a prime example of the way increasingly rare for people to make combines the need for new dedicated learning space with the To find out more about preservation and enhancement of a significant local landmark. in which markets help to define shopping a community event, but London’s Farmers’ Markets visit places, reinforcing the identity of that is exactly what happens at a www.lfm.org.uk www.bradymallalieu.com London’s urban villages. farmers’ market.’ Farmers’ markets