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Taking the Borough Market Route: an Experimental Ethnography of the Marketplace

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Taking the Borough Market Route: an Experimental Ethnography of the Marketplace Taking the Borough Market Route: An Experimental Ethnography of the Marketplace Freek Janssens -- 0303011 Freek.Janssens©student.uva.nl June 2, 2008 Master's thesis in Cultural An­ thropology at the Universiteit van Amsterdam. Committee: dr. Vincent de Rooij (supervi­ sor), prof. dr. Johannes Fabian and dr. Gerd Baumann. The River Tharrws and the Ciiy so close; ihis mnst be an important place. With a confident but at ihe same time 1incertain feeling, I walk thrmigh the large iron gales with the golden words 'Borough Market' above il. Asphalt on the floor. The asphalt seems not to correspond to the classical golden letters above the gate. On the right, I see a painted statement on the wall by lhe market's .mpcrintendent. The road I am on is private, it says, and only on market days am [ allowed here. I look around - no market to sec. Still, I have lo pa8s these gales to my research, becanse I am s·upposed to meet a certain Jon hCTe today, a trader at the market. With all the stories I had heard abont Borongh Market in my head, 1 get confnsed. There is nothing more to see than green gates and stalls covered with blue plastic sheets behind them. I wonder if this can really turn into a lively and extremely popular market during the weekend. In the corner I sec a sign: 'Information Centre. ' There is nobody. Except from some pigeons, all I see is grey walls, a dirty roof, gates, closed stalls and waste. Then I see Jon. A man in his forties, small and not very thin, walks to me. 'Are you Freak?' 'Yes, but yon pronounce Frayk.' 'Ah, I thought it was strange, bnt, well, it's ymtr name.' We shake hands, as I realise that Jon is totally different than I expected him to be. I expected to find a young tall Scol/;ish man, bnl here stands a lively middle-aged man. 'Come on, I'll show you the market,' he says. He has not much time showing me the market, because tomorrow, Jon is going to Scotland for a sailing trip with friends. Until now, this is my only entrance to the market, so I, wit.h risk of exposing myself, chat with him about sailing, hoping that he might remember me when he gel8 back:. 'And here yov.'ll find the best pork: of the market,' Jon says, pointing at The Ginger Pig. 'Hey Jon, how are you doing,' the friendly b11tcher asks. 'Very well, do me a few sausages for the weekend, alrighl?' Jon bv,ys his san.rnges and we walk on. 'So the market is open on Wednesday?' I ask Jon, trying lo bring the conversation to the rnarket. 'Yeah, sorne are, and we will be open·ing on Thnrsday too soon. ' We walk back to the grey entrance where we met. 'Come, I'll 8how you the basements. ' Behind another old and hardly j1mctioning gate is a 8tair lcadfr1.g down to the basements beneath the market. More grey her,e. And more gates. Jon opens the door with a sign saying '£85/week,' revealing two h11ge refriger­ ators and thousands of boxes half standing on each other and half laying on the floor. This is Loch €1 Glen's storage, I learn, and in the fridge .they keep thcfr ware: bacon, smoked salmon, smoked meat, black p11dding et cetera. 'I'll take some of these packages of bacon - Alistair is not going to like it!' 'You know what,' Jon says when we arc back npstairs, 'I have to go now. So here are Uic keys to the basement. And this is the code for the central gales, if they happen to be closed. I'll sec you after I come back from Scotland.' It was Wednesday, June 6 2007. Confused and relieved, I walk again lhro-agh the market's gales, back to the subway-entrance. In only half an honr Jon had introduced me to the market and to the stall of Loch flj Glen. ~Moreover, he has given me the keys and the entrance-code to the market. Borongh Market started to open up itself to me. ii Preface 'Now you 're really part of the market,' Liz said to me on one evening. I would like to thank all the traders of Borough Market for letting me be part of their market during the summer of 2007. Furthermore, I would like to thank Vincent de Rooij for his intellectual support, Gm:taaf Houtman for his social ::;up port and .Jon and Alistair for their practical support. Also, I would like to thank Corrado Boscarino for his support in all the above and many more ways. Finally, l would like to thank my reader for reading this thesis, which, if not being read, is not very useful. iii Contents 1 Introduction 2 1.1 The Urban Marketplace 2 1.2 From Market to Borough 4 1.:1 Structure . 7 2 Doing Borough Market: A Customers' Perspective 10 2.1 Walking to the Market ................. 10 2.1.1 Space ...................... 14 2.1.2 Celia's Gastro-Tour in an Ecological Market.-Place 16 2.2 Helping in the Market ................... 22 2.2.1 Time ......................... 23 2.2.2 Jeremy's Memory-Tour in a Fair-Trade Market-Place. 35 2.3 Going From the Market .................... 39 2.3.1 Omnitopia ....................... 41 2.3.2 Melissa's Tactical Tour in a Double-Faced Market-Place 57 2.4 Conclusion . 64 2.4.1 Wanting the Market ............ 64 3 Fighting for the Market: A Traders' Perspective 67 3.1 Preventing to Climb the Stage: How Customers are Excluded 70 3.1.1 Making the Market a Place for Customers ...... 71 3.1.2 Making the Market a Place Not for Customers ... 75 3.2 Dumping in the Orchestra Pit: How Wholesalers are Dismissed 86 3.2.1 New Spita.lfields and Billingsgate ....... 87 3.2.2 The Surviving Traders ............. 92 3.3 Creating a Theatre: How Traders Form a Community 95 3.3.1 .Jon: Setting Today's Scene 95 3.3.2 Writing the Script .. 97 3.3.3 Jon: Playing the Play .. 99 3.3.4 The After-Party ..... 102 3.4 Stealing the Show: the War with the "Big Four" 104 3.1.1 The Management: "They Don't Understand" 105 3.4.2 The Trustees: "They Don't Know" 115 3.4.3 The "Big Four" ........... 120 3.5 Conclusion ................. 127 3.5.1 Exclusion Behind a Second Curtain 127 3.5.2 Being Moved by Parasites 128 4 Conclusion 131 4.1 The Borough Market'::; Worlds 131 4.2 The Market in My World ... 132 4.3 My Story in a World of Science 134 5 Finally, Let's Eat 136 lV References 140 List of Figures The market's entrance. 14 2 A map of Borough Market. 15 3 Roast restaurant. 17 4 Borough Cheese Company. 19 5 Two competing ways of presenting tomatoes at the market. 21 6 The Parmesan-trader at the Green Market. 21 7 Street-sign in Bankside . 24 8 Letter by James Roberts, 1754 (first page). 27 9 Letter by James Roberts, 1754 (second page). 28 10 Fish stall in the market. 36 11 Porta Palazzo market in Turin, Ita.ly. 42 12 Porta Palazzo is a 'traditional' market. 43 l:~ Screens at Borough Market. 47 14 White Cross Street Market. 48 15 Loch &J Glen and Orkney Rose. 49 Hi Conflation in the Borough Market area. 50 17 Markett:> in London.. 51 18 San Lorenzo market in Florance, Italy. 52 19 Borough Market and the railways. 56 20 The 'hut:>tle and buntle' in Melissa'n market. 61 21 A map of Three Crown Square. 70 22 Three Crown Square. 71 23 Sampling and Dripping. 79 24 Diagram of the Borough Market theatre. 85 25 The J·nbilee Market. 88 26 New Spitalfields Market. 90 27 Bill'ingsgate Fish Market. 92 28 Jon and Miguel are preparing haggis-tempura. 100 29 Rogier plays the guitar. 102 30 The view from the market's offices. 110 31 The Borough Market Autumn Event invitation. 111 All pictures, unless stated otherwise, are taken by the author, 2007, London. 1 1 Introduction T·fotorically, the firnt bridge of London had many function::i. Not only did it offer the people a possibility to cross the river, it abo offered the City of London a possibility to control who and what came into and left the City. Because it bas long been the only bridge over the river, London Bridge developed into a busy area of trade. Still today, when passing London Bridge or when exiting its modern alternative, the London Bridge tnbe station, I am confronted with an old market. Words in gold, carefully spelled out on the street ju1:1t at the foot of the bridge, direct me to the Borough Market. 1.1 The Urban Marketplace Urban markets are disappearing (Eastwood 1995), but at the same time they are becoming more popular then ever (Harris 2004; Lane 2005). Although markets like Borough Market are often very old, they experience today a revival in popularity. Especially 'traditional' farmern markets make a comeback in the modern city (Youngs 2003; Winter 2005). Voted tbe number one foodmarket and the mrn;t popular place by Londoners, Borough Market transformed from a forgotten and shunned place into a place that attracts young people, influential cooks and television shows. We see the ~mme seemingly parapoxical development in other foodmarket,; and food-related issues like the Amsterdam Noordermarkt and the Italian Slow Food initiatives, to name but a few.
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