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Evaluating the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched Extracts from Tomato on Topical Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory Analysis

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Evaluating the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched Extracts from Tomato on Topical Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory Analysis applied sciences Article Evaluating the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched Extracts from Tomato on Topical Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory Analysis Ana Costa 1,*,†, Marta Marques 2,† , Franca Congiu 1, Alexandre Paiva 2 , Pedro Simões 2 , António Ferreira 3, Maria Rosário Bronze 1,3 , Joana Marto 1 , Helena Margarida Ribeiro 1,* and Sandra Simões 1 1 iMed.ULisboa, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Av. Prof. Gama Pinto, 1649-003 Lisboa, Portugal; [email protected] (F.C.); [email protected] (M.R.B.); [email protected] (J.M.); [email protected] (S.S.) 2 LAQV-REQUIMTE, Departamento de Química, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Quinta da Torre, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal; [email protected] (M.M.); [email protected] (A.P.); [email protected] (P.S.) 3 IBET, Instituto de Biologia Experimental e Tecnológica, Av. da República, Estação Agronómica, Apartado 12, 2780-901 Oeiras, Portugal; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] (A.C.); [email protected] (H.M.R.) † The two authors contributed equally to this work. Abstract: One of the new trends of personal care industry is the use of organic ingredients de- Citation: Costa, A.; Marques, M.; rived from nature, in particular, from food-processing residues with proven efficacy. Lycopene Congiu, F.; Paiva, A.; Simões, P.; is a carotenoid responsible for the red color of several fruits, namely tomato, whose antioxidant Ferreira, A.; Bronze, M.R.; Marto, J.; and photoprotective effects have been studied. Methods: Lycopene-enriched extracts (LEE) were Ribeiro, H.M.; Simões, S. Evaluating obtained from tomato waste using supercritical CO2 extraction, incorporated in microemulsions and the Presence of Lycopene-Enriched macroemulsions for topical use, and characterized through GC-MS for the identification of volatile Extracts from Tomato on Topical compounds. The aim of this work was to evaluate the impact of the presence of lycopene-enriched Emulsions: Physico-Chemical Characterization and Sensory extracts developed emulsions through the identification of volatile compounds and by a sensory Analysis. Appl. Sci. 2021, 11, 5120. analysis to assess the odor and color perception and the acceptability of such semi-solid systems as https://doi.org/10.3390/ cosmetic products. Results: Volatile compounds were identified in the extract and in the formulations app11115120 containing the extract. Preliminary data show that the odor of both LEE-loaded microemulsions and LEE-loaded macroemulsions was classified as undefined. The information about the composition Academic Editors: Andrea Salvo and did not modify the odor perception but increased the acceptability of some cosmetic products. LEE Carla Silva conferred a yellowish color to formulations, and the information about the formulation composition increased the likelihood of different cosmetic products with this color being bought. Conclusions: The Received: 23 April 2021 commercialization of personal care products does not only dependent on the associated organoleptic Accepted: 27 May 2021 properties, but is influenced by the information about the composition, namely by the presence of an Published: 31 May 2021 antioxidant compound. Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral Keywords: antioxidant skin supplementation; lycopene extracts; supercritical fluid extraction meth- with regard to jurisdictional claims in ods; personal care; sensory analyses published maps and institutional affil- iations. 1. Introduction Copyright: © 2021 by the authors. There is an increasing interest and a consuming market growing on natural products Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. named as “green” [1,2]. The search for personal care products formulated with natural in- This article is an open access article gredients has increased and, currently, there is a consumer preference on products scented distributed under the terms and with naturally sourced ingredients [3]. In parallel, convergence of food and cosmetics conditions of the Creative Commons is a major trend in the recent years [4]. Sustainable extraction of natural products from Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// food using innovative technologies constitutes an answer to develop natural fragrant creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ ingredients [5] but also to create products enriched in food-derived bioactives [1]. In fact, 4.0/). Appl. Sci. 2021, 11, 5120. https://doi.org/10.3390/app11115120 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/applsci Appl. Sci. 20212021,, 11,, 5120 5120 2 2of of 19 18 recoveringrecovering of of biological biological active active components components from from food food by-products by-products have have gained gained increasing increas- interesting interest for nutraceutical for nutraceutical and andcosmetic cosmetic applic applicationation since since such such products products represent represent an im- an portantimportant source source of antioxidant of antioxidant components components [6]. [An6]. Animportant important example example of application of application is ly- is copene,lycopene, a carotenoid a carotenoid that that can can be be extracted extracted from from tomato tomato that that have have gained gained major major signifi- signifi- cancecance over over the the past past years in human nutrition [7]. [7]. Processed tomato industry generates a a largelarge amount amount of of waste waste (including (including peel peel and and seed seeds)s) possible possible to to be be used used to to generate generate added- added- valuevalue compounds. Figure Figure 11 illustratesillustrates thethe sustainablesustainable valorizationvalorization ofof tomatotomato processingprocessing industryindustry by-products by-products and and the the incorporation incorporation of of waste-derived waste-derived extracts extracts on on both both nutritional nutritional supplementssupplements and and cosmetic cosmetic formulations. formulations. Figure 1. Schematic representation ofof lycopenelycopene extraction extraction from from tomato tomato processing processing waste waste and and its it applications application on on new new products. prod- ucts.LEE: LEE: Lycopene-enriched Lycopene-enriched extracts. extracts. InIn the the case case of of nutraceutical nutraceutical products, products, the the presence presence of of an an odor odor associated associated with with a a food food productproduct does not raiseraise thethe samesame acceptability acceptability problems problems as as a cosmetica cosmetic product product to beto be used used on onthe the face face or body.or body. In fact,In fact, the the presence presence of aof tomato a tomato odor odor in ain cosmetic a cosmetic product product can can lead lead to toacceptability acceptability problems problems and and the the good good acceptance acceptance of ofa a product’sproduct’s odorodor cancan be subjectively alteredaltered if if the the consumer consumer is is aware of its bene beneficialficial properties once applied to the skin. ThereThere are severalseveral marketed marketed products products claiming claiming a tomato a tomato based-origin based-origin and theand tomato’s the to- mato’sbeneficial beneficial properties properties [8–13] [8–13] and a tomatoand a toma scentto doesscent not does appear not appear as being as being an acceptability an accept- abilityburden burden for these for products. these products. In fact, to In the fact, best to of the our best knowledge of our knowledge a tomato scent a tomato acceptability scent acceptabilitystudy in cosmetics study in has cosmetics never been has never reported. been reported. Several studies Several have studies based have their based aim their on aimthe efficacyon the efficacy of lycopene, of lycopene, mostly mostly combined combin withed otherwith other bioactives, bioactives, on skin on ageingskin ageing or skin or skinphotoprotection. photoprotection. The oral The consumption oral consumption of a mixture of a mixture of soy isoflavones, of soy isoflavones, lycopene, vitaminlycopene, C, vitaminvitamin C, E andvitamin fish oil,E and clinically fish oil, demonstrated clinically demonstrated to improve the to improve depth of facialthe depth wrinkles of facial and wrinklesto increase and the to deposition increase ofthe new deposition collagen of fibers new in collagen the dermis, fibers following in the dermis, long-term following use [14]. long-termThe possibility use [14]. of using The possibility plant derived of using bioactives plant inderived sunscreens bioactives to protect in sunscreens the skin againstto pro- tectsun the light skin exposure against damagesun light has exposure been hypothesized damage has been [15]; hypothesized however, the number[15]; however, of studies the number of studies including molecules like lycopene in topical forms is very scarce [1]. Appl. Sci. 2021, 11, 5120 3 of 18 including molecules like lycopene in topical forms is very scarce [1]. Apart from lycopene extracted from fruits or food wastes, presenting antioxidant activity, tomato cultured stem cells were developed as a new cosmetic active ingredient and tested for the protection of skin cells towards heavy metal toxicity [16]. Cosmetic ingredients are not odor-free and the cosmetic composition can modify the sensory attributes and influence the consumer acceptance [17]. This means that the final odor of formulations is affected by the qualitative and quantitative composition of each product. It is also known that consumer’s response to a cosmetic product is not only based on its efficacy but also on how its
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