Hand Stitches

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Stitch Best Use Running, • Gathering Basting • Secure fabric layers that won't be subjected to stress • Decorative purposes in lieu of machine topstitching • Baste temporarily in preparation for machine or hand

Backstitch • Hand-set a or attach • Use whenever strength is important

Catch • heavy or bulky fabrics • Secure facings

Diagonal • Same as for basting Basting • Useful for slippery fabrics

Overcast • Finish raw edges, especially loosely-woven fabrics

Slip Stitch • Close seams on stuffed animals or pillows • Attach linings Hand Stitches

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Stitch Best Use

Tailor's Tacks • Mark fabric for construction: darts, folds, match points, etc.

Whipstitch • Join one finished edge to another

Buttonhole/Blanket • Overcast edges • Make hand-stitched • Decorative or functional depending on closeness of stitches

French • Secure facings • Join and garment at side seams

Prick/Pick Stitch • A variation of used as decorative element along a garment edge or parallel to a seamline

Blind Hem Stitch • Hem a garment

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Doing your own laundry for the first time? What gets washed with what? Too late to call home? You're the only one in the laundry? Pamela J. Brown * Hang on, help is here. You can take care corner of your room. If the clothes are dirty or of your clothes and save money by stained, you may forget to treat the stain if you practicing good clothing management in don't hang them up. And some stains are hard your home, dorm or neighborhood to remove if left untreated. That may mean laundry. Although the latest in washers, you've ruined your favorite shirt or jeans. dryers and laundry products make Removing stains cleaning easier, for good results, follow Spots and stains are easier to remove if these basic procedures: they're treated quickly – not a few days later. •Hang up your clothes when you take them To remove a stain, use a blotting motion; do off. not rub the stain. Work from the outer edge to •Keep your clothes clean and remove stains the center of the stain. Be patient when as soon as possible – not the next time you following stain-removal directions. Retreat go home to Mom's. stains that are not completely gone; some must •Mend clothes when they need repairs. be treated several times. Do not dry stained •Read the care labels and follow instructions clothes in the dryer or the stains may become – don't them off; you may forget the permanent. instructions. Check for really dirty areas such as collars •Sort clothes before washing and drying. and cuffs. Pretreat these areas before washing. •Follow the instructions on laundry Make your own pretreatment by using liquid products. detergent, a paste of granular detergent and •When buying clothes, think about how you water or use one of many varieties of will care for the garment. pretreatment products on the market. Always check for colorfastness (that is, make sure the Hang up your clothes fabric color remains the same when Clothes are made of fibers that bend, pretreatment is applied) in an inconspicuous stretch, absorb moisture and attract dirt. You area of the garment, such as a allowance can save hours of washing and ironing if you inside the garment. just take a few minutes to hang your clothes on Chlorine bleach is a stain remover. Use it hangers rather than leaving them piled in a only on white and colorfast clothes. Although bleach can also improve the cleaning power of *Assistant Professor and Extension consumer the laundry detergents, it weakens fibers science specialist; The Texas A&M University System (especially cotton) when used repeatedly. That makes clothes wear out quicker. Do not use publication. bleach on silk, wool, spandex, noncolorfast By law, manufacturers must attach care fabrics or fabrics with a flame-retardant finish. labels permanently. They are usually on the Oxygen bleach is safe for colored fabrics inside of the collar, or waist seam, but and is most effective in brightening colors and can be on other inside seams. Although you whites when used regularly. can remove the labels, it is best to leave them The Extension Stain Removal Guide L–5199 attached to know how to care for your gives tips on specific stains and removal. Or, clothing. check out web sites on the Internet on stain removal. (Refer to the “Sources” section at the Sorting end of this publication.) Sort clothes before washing to keep colors from fading onto other colors, to prevent Repairs transfer of lint and soil, and to make it easier Repair holes and replace on to choose the best water temperature and clothing so these areas don't continue to detergent for your clothes. Be sure to empty expand when washed. If you don't know how pockets; shake off loose dirt; close , hooks to repair holes or replace zippers or buttons, and eyes; and remove belts, and . consider learning. Find a friend who knows Then sort the clothes by: how, or take them to a repair shop such as a •Color: Separate whites from colors, light sewing service or dry cleaner. Their services colors from dark. usually include clothing repairs. However, •Fiber content of fabric: Fibers that can be expect to pay a lot more than it would cost you washed together include cotton and linen; to do the repair yourself. wool and acrylic; and manmade fibers (polyester and blends). Remember that Choosing a coin-operated laundry some fabrics should be dry-cleaned only. If you're living in a dorm or apartment, •Texture: Separate smooth fabrics (such as you may not have a washer and dryer on the polyester) from pile fabrics (corduroy). premises. Though less expensive than dry Wash fabrics that shed lint, such as towels cleaning, a coin-operated laundry can be made of terry cloth, separately from those costly. Sorting clothing correctly can save your that attract it, such as corduroy, velveteen money and your clothes. and most permanent press fabrics. Choose a laundry that is clean, well •Construction: Wash delicate items maintained and well lit. Try to find one with separately, such as loose knits, lace, or any an attendant on duty during open hours. Look item requiring hand washing. for businesses that provide tables for folding, •Soil: Separate heavily soiled from lightly hanging racks, and baskets for moving laundry soiled clothes. from washers to dryers. Although most have change machines, take Select laundry products and washing plenty of coins (quarters and dimes) with you. techniques It is less expensive to bring your own laundry Many choices of laundry products are detergent. Be sure to bring hangers. You may available today. Remember: choose to disinfect the washers you use. Add •Every load of laundry needs detergent to get liquid chlorine bleach to the wash cycle when clean. you launder white clothes. •Follow the manufacturer's instructions for amounts to use. Measure the detergent Read care labels before adding it to the water. More Following the manufacturer's detergent may be needed for extra large recommended instructions can mean the loads, less for very small loads. When you difference between a garment that lasts and use too little detergent, clothes become one that can be ruined easily. Read the care grayed or yellowed, and stains and oils labels in your garments. They contain care aren't removed. procedures recommended by the clothing manufacturer. New symbols are now appearing Water temperature on garment labels. An explanation of these All detergents work better in water symbols can be found on the back of this temperatures above 65 degrees. Check the care label instructions and fiber content for Drying temperature guidelines. Use cold water only Choose a dry cycle that fits the care label when care labels recommend it. instruction. Generally, if items can be washed together, they can be dried together. Some Soaps and detergents items may shrink when dried. Again, read the Read laundry labels and directions to label. You may want to remove such items choose the right detergent. Soaps are designed from the washer and hang them to dry rather for light, gentle washing; detergents work to than drying in the dryer. remove a variety of soil amounts. Shake damp clothes to loosen them before Detergents are more concentrated today placing them in the dryer. Do not overload the than in the past. Use the recommended dryer. If you are using a dryer with a removable amounts. Some states prohibit the sale of lint filter, clean it before starting the next dryer detergents containing phosphates. Non- cycle. If you don't clean the filter regularly, phosphate detergents may not clean as your apartment or house may be at risk of fire. effectively as detergents containing phosphate. Regular cycles are intended for all-cotton Powdered detergents dissolve better in hot fabrics. Use the permanent press cycle for water than in cold. A powdery residue on clothes made of manmade fibers, such as clothes after washing may indicate that the polyester, nylon and acrylic. Avoid wrinkles by detergent was not dissolved completely. removing clothes from the dryer as soon as the Granular detergents work well on mud and cycle ends. Leaving them in the dryer will clay soils. Liquid detergents are usually create more wrinkles. effective in removing greasy, oily stains. Put detergent in the water first so it can dissolve Do not over dry clothing. Remove items and then add clothes. with elastic bands, such as shorts, socks and bras, while slightly damp. Some touch-up Loading the washer ironing may be necessary on some items. Fill the washer with water, add detergent and then clothes. Do not pack clothes into a Air drying washer. Overloading washers can create extra Read the garment care label. Some items lint, leave detergent on clothes and shorten should not be dried in the dryer, but should be their life. Place them loosely and unfolded, so dried on a flat surface or hung to dry. that water and detergent can circulate freely through the clothes. Buying more clothes Vary the size of articles in loads. For Now that you know how to care for what example, wash large towels and wash cloths you already own, consider what to look for in together, or jeans and dark shirts, or two sheets your clothing when you are ready to buy more. and smaller items requiring similar water Before buying a new article of clothing, ask temperatures. Never wind, wrap or drape yourself these questions: clothing over the washer agitator. This could tear and damage your clothes. •What does the care label recommend? •Will it require special care, such as hand Fabric softeners washing or dry-cleaning? Fabric softeners reduce static cling, •How much will the care procedure add to minimize wrinkling and soften clothes. Read the price of the item? instructions on laundry equipment and fabric •How much will it cost me in time and softener products to know when and how to money to care for this item? add softeners. Rinse-added softeners go in •Do I have the right kind of products and during the final rinse of the washer. Dryer- equipment to clean this item correctly? added softener sheets go in the dryer at the start of the drying cycle. If you expect your clothes to last, you must take care of them. The appearance of clothing Washing by hand can be ruined during any of the steps outlined Read the care label. Some items, such as above. However, if you take time to care for lingerie, should not be placed in a washer. and clean your clothes properly, you will save Instead, wash them in a sink, handling carefully. money. NOTE: The water temperatures listed in the chart are provided as a guideline. Actual water temperatures in the home depend on the washing machine settings (hot, warm, cold), regional water supply temperatures and water heater settings.

References

Cleanliness Facts. (1997). The Soap and Detergent Association, July/August. NY: New York.

Cleanliness Facts. (1997). The Soap and Detergent Association, March/April. NY: New York.

Laundering Facts. (1991). The Soap and Detergent Adapted from a publication of the Federal Trade Commission, Association. NY: New York. Bureau of Consumer Protection. Beard, A.V. (1989). Removing stains from washable fabrics. Texas Agricultural Extension Service. TX: College Station. Sources: http://www.fabriclink.com/ Removing stains & odors from washable fabrics. (1986). http://www.aac.msstate.edu/pubs/pub1636.htm The Pennsylvania State University Cooperative Extension http://www.sdahq.org Service. PA: University Park.

Turner, J.D. (September 1995). Stain removal methods for washable cotton and cotton/polyester blend fabrics. Chemist and Colorist.

Produced by Agricultural Communications, The Texas A&M University System

Educational programs of the Texas Agricultural Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture, Edward A. Hiler, Interim Director, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System.

5,000 copies - New CLO Pricing Tips and Tricks What is the purpose of any business? To make money, right? Here, you’re going to learn a few tips to help you understand how to better price items and make a profit. There are a couple questions you can ask yourself first:

 What are your customers willing to pay?

 What is the break-even point? Or, at what point would your profit margin even out to $0?

 How much of a profit do you want to make? (within reason, of course).

 What is your competition charging for the same/similar item?

Consumer Psychology Toward Price Most consumers develop attitudes about the price that they are willing to pay for a product or service. There are numerous price strategies used by businesses to take advantage of customer pricing psychology. The following are three of the more common strategies. Multiple Unit Pricing This technique is used when there is a discount applied if more than one unit of an item is purchased. For example, an item usually sold for 49 cents can be sold at two for 89 cents and three for $1.39. Some things to remember: Multiple unit pricing works best for things that are more likely to be used quickly or sold in bulk; an item that lasts for months or years won’t increase consumption.

Odd Number Pricing People view numbers ending in nine as much cheaper than something ending in a zero. Example: 49 cents seems cheaper than 50 cents, and 99 cents seems much cheaper than $1. An asking price of $19.95 seems like a much better deal than $20. However, when it comes to Prestige Pricing, high-end stores tend to go with whole numbers.

Prestige Pricing Prestige Pricing refers to the technique used by high-end stores that markup their prices. Consumers are willing to pay more when they are under the impression that the product is made of a higher quality or possesses brand/ manufacturer prestige. Example: a dress may be $150 rather than $149.95. Product Pricing Service Pricing

First, in a Product-Oriented business, you Sometimes, providing good service is more important than the profit. In these must decide on a product price — which is businesses, the supplier should figure the operating costs and the variable costs the total cost of your item, including materi- needed to keep the business running. These costs are the same as in the Product- als and labor as well as equipment costs. Oriented business. For a Service-Oriented business, the price should include: There are different formulas that can be used  Variable costs (production-related costs such as materials and packaging) to help you decide on a reasonable cost.  Fixed costs (equipment and labor costs)  Profit

Basic Formula For a Service-Oriented business, labor is usually the major expense. Decide how much labor costs are involved and include that in your fixed cost price. You may change the Cost of materials + labor (production hourly wage depending on the difficulty of the service required. If a special skill is time X hourly wage) / (number of required, the wage may be higher than a simple job. However, if the labor cost is too items made) = selling price per unit* high, it may increase the selling price higher than a consumer is willing to spend. This approach is often used by beginners A business cannot operate without a profit, which is why the profit needs to be because it provides a basic selling price per included in the price. To find a profit amount, you may want to find a profit percentage that a competitor has and use that in your formula. unit. In this formula, there is no allowance for overhead costs, inflation, or profit.  First, decide on an hourly wage for your labor  Second, determine variable expenses needed to create your product *Note: If after figuring the selling price, you  Third, decide what is a competitive profit amount see that your price is noticeably higher than your competitors’, you may decide to accept less profit or find a way to lessen the Formula material costs by using off-brand products or shopping at discount stores. Labor (per hour) + variable expenses + profit = price per hour charged

Prepared by: Kimberly Phelan, Texas A&M student, January, 2016 Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, genetic information or veteran status. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating. Safety Guide: Guidelines for a Safe Duds to Dazzle Contest

General Guidelines  Keep your work station and the floor area around your work station clean.  Keep shoes on at all times – you don’t want to step on stray pins or needles.  Your work station must be clean before you leave.

 Make sure you have a first aid kit available for minor injuries.

Sewing Equipment  NEVER put pins in your mouth; use a cushion.  Hand sharp objects handle first to another person.  Walk with scissor blades pointing towards the floor.

 Keep shears, , and rotary cutters closed when not in use.

 Seam rippers are sharp and can cut or puncture you.

 Cut away from you.

 Do not cut toward your other hand.  Do not attempt to catch a dropped pair of scissors. Let them fall and then pick them up.

Rotary Cutters  Always cover your cutter blade with its protective cover when it’s not in use; it’s a good habit to form.

 Handle replacement blades with care.

 Cut away from your body.  Don’t throw old blades directly in the trash can; put them in an old case or wrap in heavy paper.

 Always use a ruler.

 Always use a rotary mat!

 Keep fingers and knuckles away from the ruler’s edge where the cut will be made.  Never have pins on your mat or try to cut fabric that has pins in it. As soon as you roll over a pin with your cutter, you will have a dead spot in the blade, which will not cut

through the fabric.  Stand over your work when cutting, so that you are looking directly down on your ruler.  Keep the blade vertical against the ruler, not tilted.  The blade side of the cutter, should be closest to the ruler. Iron Safety  Iron on a high, stable surface, such as an ironing board.  Make sure the electrical cord is out of reach.  Unplug the iron immediately after use, and place it out of the way.

 Only touch an iron on the handle!

 Keep your fingers and face away from the steam and soleplate on the iron.  Rest the iron on its heel, not flat down on its soleplate.

Hot Glue Gun  Place a piece of paper or cardboard under the safety stand to catch hot glue drips and prevent damage to the underlying surface.

 Always focus on the gluing task. If you need to look away from gluing, put the hot glue gun down.  Do not touch the heated nozzle of a hot glue gun.  Never leave a hot glue gun unattended.

Sewing  Thoroughly review and understand information provided in the owner’s manual, with particular attention to safety procedures. Machine  Use an appropriate speed when sewing.

 Keep your fingers away from the needles and all moving parts!  Don’t lean your face too close to the machine – just in case a needle should break.  Remove pins before sewing over them.  Unplug electrical equipment by the plug, never by the cord.

 Never operate equipment that has frayed cords!

 Place all electrical cords out of the way so they aren’t a tripping hazard.

 Make sure equipment is off before changing needles or any other parts.

Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Depart- ment of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating Simple Seaming Techniques

11.110 Page 1

Stitching two pieces of fabric together using a creates the simplest of seams. If you’re working with a commercial sewing , most seams are stitched with a 5/8"- wide (meaning the stitching is 5/8" from the fabric edge), though some patterns use narrower seam allowances. Always check the guidesheet for specifics. The seam allowance width is the space from the cut edge of the fabric piece to the stitching or seaming line.

Straight Seams Tensions To stitch a straight Before stitching any seam, stitch a test seam, pin the matching seam on two layers of fabric; use scraps of project pieces right the project fabric. Examine the stitching sides together, on both sides of the fabric. If matching any notches, thread is visible on the top, reduce the clips, dots or other needle thread tension slightly. If needle pattern markings. Pin thread is visible on the bottom, increase at regular intervals and the needle tension slightly. A balanced perpendicular to the tension is very important to getting a cut edges. Position pins good seam. about 2" to 3" apart to keep the fabric from shifting. Exposed Seams 1 Exposed straight seams are usually pressed Begin stitching at the open flat, and depending on the type of cut end of the seamline, backstitch 1/4" to fabric used, some finish may be needed to anchor the seam. Stitch forward to the end keep the seam allowance edges from of the seam and backstitch to secure (1). raveling. Edge-finishing options include Corner Seams cutting the seam edges with , zigzagging, overcasting, or To stitch a corner seam, follow the serging. See Guideline 11.115. directions above, but as you near the corner, stop 5/8" from the corner (or Enclosed Seams whatever the seam allowance width is) Enclosed seams do not need a seam finish, leaving the needle down in the fabric. Lift but they must be handled differently than the and pivot the fabric, exposed seams. realigning the new seam allowance edges with the seam guide marking on the To reduce bulk, trim the enclosed seam machine. allowances from their 5/8" original width, but trim each seam allowance edge at a On acute or sharp points, such as shirt different width—a process called grading. collars, take one to three stitches diagonally The seam allowance that will be closest to across the corner to allow some room for the outside of the garment/project should seam allowances turning inside. Use one be the longest, followed by narrower stitch on lightweight fabrics and three on widths for each successive seam allowance. heavyweight fabrics. There will always be at least two seam Lower the presser foot and stitch along the allowances, but if there is a separate collar second side of the corner, keeping an even and/or layer(s), there will be seam allowance width. more. Stagger the width of the seam Simple Seaming Techniques

11.110 Page 2 allowances to eliminate a Corners visible ridge on the project On enclosed corners, such as right side. If all edges “drop collar points or front off” at the same width, it’s easy edges, you need to eliminate to get a noticeable ridge, seam allowance bulk at the point especially during pressing. so that when the project is Grading provides a gradual turned right side out, the corner slope of the enclosed seam will lie smooth and flat without edges (2). bulges. Curved Seams Trim the corner seam allowances , armholes, princess diagonally, close to the stitching, seams and other curved areas and taper on either side. The require an additional step in sharper the corner is, the wider the seaming process — 2 the tapered trim area should be to reduce bulk (5). clipping or notching, 5 depending on the shape of the curve. For inward or concave curves, clip into the seam A princess seam joins one inward allowances at regular intervals to allow the fabric to curve and one outward curve, adding fullness to the spread and lie seam instead of having a in the same location. flat. Leave Joining opposing curves requires extra care. about 1/8" of the seam Before joining princess seams, staystitch the outward allowance width curve 1/2" from the cut edge; then clip to the stitching. unclipped to Place the cut edges together with the clipped seam avoid allowance on top, allowing the clips to spread as needed to match the curve underneath. 3 weakening the seam (3). After the seam is stitched, notch the inward-curve seam allowance to allow the seam allowances to spread. Press the seam open over a pressing ham or other curved surface. For outward or convex curves, cut out notches in Princess seams are covered in more detail in Guideline the seam allowance width 11.310. to allow the fabric to lie flat without bubbling when the seam is turned right side out. Notch (cut away small wedges of the fabric) into the seam allowance at regular intervals to remove the fabric, but always leave 1/8" intact at the seamline to avoid weakening the seam (4). 4 1/06 Note for the Project Helper Elements of Design Color Not all exhibits in the clothing project area The elements of design are shape/form, will require identification of elements and Color is the hue, value, and intensity that color, texture, and line. These are the defines parts and sets off one area of principles. If a garment or accessory has been designed and/or constructed to Unraveling tools used by you and clothing manufac- design from another. Hue is the name of the turers when a garment is designed and color (red, blue). Value is how light or dark enhance personal appearance, the elements constructed to enhance your appearance. the color is (light blue, navy blue). Intensity and principles will most likely need to be the Mystery is how bright or dull it is identified. (4-H green, neon green). Design elements and principles of Design Shape/Form are difficult concepts for Form is the shape and structure of an item. younger youth. Beginning to Elements and Shape is two-dimensional and appears flat; learn about line and color is form is three-dimensional with length, width, emphasized for beginning youth. and depth. (A circle is a shape; a ball is a See Adventures in Clothing, Principles in form.) 4-H 315a or Discovering Choice, pp. 24-25. As youth have more experience, they Clothing should begin to learn about Line other elements and how Line can show direction, draw your to use the principles of design in making choices. The principles of design attention, outline an object, divide a space, Shape Form or communicate a feeling. Lines can be are introduced in Strategies for Clothing, straight, curved, diagonal, thick or thin, 4-H 315c pp. 4-10. horizontal or vertical. They can be part of By learning and using Texture the fabric (stripes or plaid) or part of the File: Youth and 4-H the elements and Texture is the surface quality of an item. design (a yoke or seam). principles of design, It is how something feels when it is touched you will increase your or looks like it would feel if touched . . . and justice for all understanding of how and (rough, smooth, The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, why some things work soft, or hard). gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and together and some marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Many materials can be made available in alternative formats for ADA simply “don’t look right.” clients. To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call 202-720-5964.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Stanley R. Johnson, director, Cooperative Extension Service, Iowa State University of Science and Technology, Ames, Iowa.

ELEMENTS...ELEMENTS...ELEMENTS...ELEMENTS 4H 313 February 2003 ELEMENTS...ELEMENTS...ELEMENTS...ELEMENTS Rhythm Principles of Design Emphasis Rhythm leads the eye from one part of a The principles of design (rhythm, emphasis, proportion, balance, and unity) are how Emphasis is the quality that draws your design to another part, creating movement we use the tools (elements) to create looks (whole outfits, accessories, shoes, etc.) attention to a certain part of the design through repetition of pattern or color. Follow that are different or unique. first. (A logo or stripe, the flow of orange waves or white daisies in for example) the examples below. Unity When things look right together, you have created unity. Unity includes clothing, all accessories, and you. Lines and shapes that repeat each other show unity (curved lines and curved shapes). Colors that have a common hue create unity. Texture also helps create unity (a soft texture with curved Balance lines). Try to create a certain Balance makes the right and left side of a Proportion mood or theme—sporty, tailored, garment appear to be equal, even though Proportion refers to the relationship dramatic, casual—and keep they may not be exactly the same. If the between parts of a design, such as the size the clothing and accessories in two sides are the same, it is symmetrical of the clovers compared to the size of the harmony with your coloring, your balance. If the two sides are different in shirts. The examples build, and your age. Then you'll some way but still give the same weight, below show good have unity. it is asymmetrical balance. proportion. Unity is a difficult principle to define. It is both a principle in itself as well as the goal for the overall look! What about the pink and green outfit? Is that a good example of unity? Notice the sundress with sandals in the picture. In your opinion, does that create “unity”? symmetrical

asymmetrical

PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES...PRINCIPLES