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The Herriot Trail

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The Herriot Trail THE HERRIOT TRAIL around Wensleydale and Swaledale taking in locations from ‘All Creatures Great & Small’ GRINTON LANGTHWAITE AND The houses of Grinton straggle uphill from ARKENGARTHDALE the River Swale. Its splendid church was once known as the ‘Cathedral of the Dales’. After a This lovely valley that begins to open up loses bereavement in villages further up Swaledale, little by comparison with better known Swaledale. bodies were carried along an ancient ‘Corpse If Langthwaite seems immediately familiar, it’s Road’ to the nearest consecrated ground, which, because this diminutive hamlet featured in the until the building of Muker chapel, was at Grinton. opening credits of the first Herriot series. The Red Lion pub has also made cameo appearances on TV. The view from the top of the hill (close to the Youth Hostel on the road signposted to Redmire and Leyburn) is one of James Herriot’s favourites. It was this view that first opened Herriot’s eyes to SWALEDALE the natural beauty of the Yorkshire Dales. The Youth Hostel was originally built as a As you descend a steep hill, another familiar scene shooting lodge and doubled as a convincing presents itself - the shallow ford, again featured in prisoner of war camp in one of the Herriot films. the opening sequence, where James Herriot’s car splashed through the water. At the next bridge look out for a ruined lead smelting mill on the left given the undeniably romantic name of Surrender Mill. REETH Reeth, with its sloping village green, marks the point where Arkengarthdale meets the main valley LOW ROW of Swaledale. Reeth’s prosperity grew with the lead mining in the northern Dales, and relics of This is upland scenery at its best and small wonder the industry and other Dales related curios can be that Swaledale was James Herriot’s favourite dale found in the Swaledale Folk Museum. and provided many of the human dramas played out in All Creatures Great and Small. During the When Alf Wight first put pen to paper But it was the BBC TV series that saw filming of many episodes, Robert Hardy (who little did he know that he would become the stories successfully transferred to played Siegfried Farnon) stayed at the Punch Bowl the world’s most famous vet. He is the screen. Between 1978 and 1983 Inn at Low Row. better known as James Herriot whose forty-nine episodes were broadcast, tales of country life have captured the bringing vividly to life the vets’ practice imagination of readers and viewers of James Herriot, Siegfried Farnon MUKER around the globe. and his brother - the happy-go-lucky This delightful little village fits snugly into its Tristan. James Herriot was fifty and still hilly surroundings. The many paths that meander working as a full time vet, when he James Herriot’s ‘parish’ actually between Muker and Keld offer some of the finest began writing. His first novel, ‘If Only extended from Hawes in the west to walking in the Yorkshire Dales. On your return the Farmer’s Arms offers welcome hospitality. They Could Talk’, was published by Yorkshire’s east coast, but most of the Michael Joseph in 1970, followed a locations were filmed in the beautiful couple of years later by ‘It Shouldn’t valleys of Swaledale and Wensleydale. Happen to a Vet’. The northern Dales have now become The shops and pubs of Reeth will be familiar to synonymous with the evocative tales. regular Herriot viewers. Langhorn House, opposite They were published together for the the Buck Hotel, was Skeldale House in the first American market - and its title ‘All The Herriot Trail will introduce you film, and interior footage was shot in the bar of the Creatures Great and Small’ was the one to many of the places that fired James Black Bull Inn. used for the TV series. Herriot’s love of this landscape. Perhaps More books followed, two of them being you will be encouraged to return and turned into feature films. explore them more fully. One thing is for sure - you will not be disappointed. WENSLEYDALE BAINBRIDGE CARPERBY WENSLEY The Buttertubs Pass offers increasingly dramatic When James Herriot got married it was to the Wensleydale is the only major dale to take its views as the road climbs out of Swaledale. The Wheatsheaf Inn that he took his wife to for their name from a village rather than the river - the Buttertubs themselves are deep limestone fissures honeymoon. The village hall was once filmed as Ure - which runs through it. At one time Wensley’s in the ground, just yards from the road. Once you the venue for a village dance. market was the biggest in the dale, but the great crest the bleak top of the pass, you are on your Plague of 1563 decimated the population. Wensley way down into Wensleydale, passing through the church was the location for James Herriot’s filmed hamlet of Simonstone. Look out for Simonstone wedding and there is much of interest to see inside. Hall, which was featured twice on TV - as the CASTLE BOLTON country club and the venue for Darrowby Show. Take a detour to Bolton Castle, where the formidable battlements overlook the village of MIDDLEHAM Castle Bolton. These romantic surroundings HARDRAW emboldened the real James Herriot to propose marriage to Joan Danbury (Helen Herriot in the Hardraw’s parish church became Darrowby books) while on a visit here. Mary Queen of Scots Church on television. Behind the Green Dragon stayed here too, but not from choice. The castle Inn (pay a small fee at the bar) is Hardraw Force, The valley road from Hawes runs through the was her prison - albeit a comfortable one - before the highest single-drop waterfall in the country, beautiful countryside. You follow the course of she was executed at Fotheringhay Castle. cascading over the lip of a rocky gorge. James the River Ure to arrive in Bainbridge, a village Herriot was suitably impressed, but said he found that boasts an extensive village green and a set of the place ‘eerie’. wooden stocks. The Romans knew Bainbridge as Virosidum, and built a fort here on the little hill that overlooks the village. HAWES Hawes is the ‘capital’ of Upper Wensleydale, supporting many shops, pubs, a weekly market and ASKRIGG livestock auction mart (Darrowby Cattle Mart). When the location finders were looking for a Here too is the Wensleydale Creamery where the place to represent Darrowby for the Herriot series, Middleham Castle was home of the powerful delicious Wensleydale cheese is made. Askrigg’s old world charm and Georgian houses Neville family, who ruled their fiefdom almost gave it a head start on its rivals. Take away the like royalty. This village of handsome Georgian modern cars and the village seems to return to houses - many built with stone salvaged from another era. But Askrigg is no mere film set, it the castle - is known today for the training of is handsomely authentic. The parish church at racehorses. The cobbles resound daily to the clatter the bottom of the sweeping main street is worthy of thoroughbred hooves as steeds are lead onto the of investigation. The handsome Georgian house gallops. opposite the many stepped market cross became Redmire PICREDMIRE Skeldale House in the series and still retains the name today. The nearby Kings Arms has had its Several Herriot episodes were filmed in moments of television fame too, as Darrowby’s Redmire (including in the Bolton Arms) and its Drovers Arms. surroundings. EAST WITTON Appearances can deceive - East Witton’s picturesque cottages were actually built last century, following a 16th century pattern Don’t miss the Ropeworks or the Dales WEST SCRAFTON Countryside Museum and National Park Centre Alf and Joan Wight spent many holidays in West housed in what used to be the town’s railway Scrafton and a number of episodes were filmed station. here and elsewhere in Coverdale When James Herriot created the town of A Tan Hill 66 WEST WITTON Darrowby in his books, he combined features from Gilling West Richmond, Thirsk, Leyburn and Middleham…and Arkengarthdale ± r e The unfenced road climbs to the shoulder of n some from his fertile imagination too. r 4 o h 7 t C r Penhill, then winds down very steeply into West 2 o Ki 6 ch S rk t N t b B Richmond’s narrow streets, known as wynds, ep y Langthwaite co 1 Witton. James Herriot contemplated this scene, he S A n & are fascinating to explore. Tucked away down 4 years ago, knowing that his car had no brakes. He Keld 7 6270 2 B 6 B B6 decided to tackle the descent in first gear…and Ryder’s Wynd is the Richmondshire Museum, Richmond (! 271 where you will find among many other exhibits, lived to tell the tale. The Wensleydale Heifer in Br A o Reeth on- mp a recreation of James Herriot’s surgery. Find B6270 6 Sw ton West Witton was where James and Helen enjoyed 0 1 ale - Swaledale Grinton 7 3 2 6 time to visit the Green Howards Museum and the Thwaite 6 many a meal. Muker B6 Low Row B 27 exquisite Georgian Theatre. If you climb to the top 0 A Gunnerside 6 1 0 outh of the castle keep your efforts will be rewarded by 8 A1 S panoramic views of the town and River Swale - a LEYBURN fitting end to the Herriot Trail. S ed Le be Ca ed rg rli s, S & sle et R tle ailw , Castle Bolton ay Simonstone Askrigg Redmire Be Hardraw dale Leyburn (! Carperby Wensley 5 A B625 Bainbridge 684 n Hawes Aysgarth Falls to West Witton le National ng Aysgarth I Park Centre Middleham Wensleydale East Witton Melmerby 60 M 61 ash B ll am e West Scrafton w le t t e K Horsehouse This bustling market town boasts a large market © Crown copyright and database right 2019.
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