La Ciudad Post-Traumática

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La Ciudad Post-Traumática La ciudad post-traumática Marijin Dvor y el monte Trebevi, dos espacios urbanos en transición en Sarajevo Caterina Borelli Aquesta tesi doctoral està subjecta a la llicència Reconeixement- NoComercial – SenseObraDerivada 3.0. Espanya de Creative Commons. Esta tesis doctoral está sujeta a la licencia Reconocimiento - NoComercial – SinObraDerivada 3.0. España de Creative Commons. This doctoral thesis is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial- NoDerivs 3.0. Spain License. Departament d’Antropologia Cultural i Història d’Amèrica i Àfrica Facultat de Geografia i Història Universitat de Barcelona Doctorat en Antropologia Social i Cultural (bienio 2006-2008) La ciudad post-traumática Marijin Dvor y el monte Trebević, dos espacios urbanos en transición en Sarajevo por Caterina Borelli Director de tesis: Dr. Manuel Delgado Ruiz Barcelona, septiembre 2012 1 2 “Sarajevo mía: quien aquí no se vuelve loco no es normal” [Depósito del antiguas cabinas del teleférico del Trebević en Bistrik, Sarajevo, octubre 2010] 3 4 AGRADECIMIENTOS Una tesis de antropología es, en el fondo, un trabajo colectivo del que una sola persona se lleva la autoría final. Por eso creo que los agradecimientos aquí no son una mera formalidad, sino un acto absolutamente debido hacia todas las personas que me pusieron, como investigadora, en las condiciones de recolectar el material que presento y redactar el texto final. Antes que nada, agradecer profundamente a Manuel Delgado una confianza que no estoy segura de merecer del todo, pero que sin duda me ha subido el ego en más de una ocasión y me ha hecho fuerte en los momentos de dificultad. Por el calor humano, la cercanía y también por las largas charlas frente a una copa de vino en nuestros primeros tiempos del Raval. Esperemos que esta costumbre no se pierda. Siempre en la Universidad de Barcelona, a Ignasi Terradas por su gran amabilidad y la disponibilidad de tiempo y atención en mis consultas puntuales. A los compañeros del Grecs, del grupo de Espai Urbà y de la promoción de doctorado 2008, en particular a Fabiola, Francesca e Isabel, por compartir y hacerme sentir menos sola en este solitario trabajo. A la Generalitat de Catalunya que, a través de diferentes instituciones, me ha brindado en los últimos años unas ayudas sin las cuales este trabajo, simplemente, no existiría. En Sarajevo, a todas y cada una de las personas que, desde el primer día, me han hecho sentir como en mi casa. Su amistad ha sido igual de necesaria para el desarrollo de esta investigación que las becas doctorales. Si este estudio tiene 5 calidad, es porque ellos han hecho que me encontrara en la disposición anímica optimal para realizar el trabajo de campo; si no la tiene, es responsabilidad únicamente mía. Nombrar a todos me sería imposible, pero alguna mención es debida. En la Facultad de Arquitectura de Sarajevo, a la profesora Vesna Hercegovac- Pašić, por haber sido mi guía académica local, sin tener ninguna obligación a hacerlo. Por los materiales que me ha facilitado, los cafés que hemos tomado juntas y por el entusiasmo que siempre me ha demostrado. A su asistenta Mejrema Zatrić, por compartir inquietudes intelectuales y personales más allá del ámbito académico. También por el fundamental apoyo logístico, el glamour y la inolvidable excursión al búnker de Tito. Por la asistencia lingüística in loco y desde la distancia: a Dina, Jovana, Maja (y su padre), Jelena y Saša. Todos ellos amigos queridos y extrañados. A Camilla, compañera y hermana, por haberse enfrentado a la Zona conmigo. A Giovanna, María Joao y los demás amigos “internacionales” que padecen, como yo, de “mal de Bosnia”. Por supuesto, agradecer de corazón a Tarik, guía, portero, relaciones públicas, fixer, stalker… y por muchas etiquetas que le sigamos poniendo nunca alcanzaríamos una definición satisfactoria. Por preservar la bondad en este mundo perro. Jebem te gluha. Y finalmente a mi familia. A Hernán, por soportarme estoicamente en mis desvaríos nerviosos veraniegos. A mi madre, por volar –literalmente- al rescate. A mi padre, porque sí. Por último, a la persona más importante de todas, Matilde, mi obra maestra. 6 ÍNDICE 0. PREFACIO………………………………………………………………………………………………………..9 i. La primera vez que entré a Bosnia………………………………………………………………10 ii. Génesis de una idea…………………………………………………………………………………….15 iii. Advertencia ético-moral………………………………………………………………………………19 1. PLANTEAMIENTOS TEÓRICOS………………………………………………………………………..21 1.1 El marco teórico: el estudio de la ciudad y el post-socialismo……………………..22 1.2 Para situarnos: coordenadas históricas……………………………………………………….26 1.2.1 El socialismo y su caída………………………………………………………………26 1.2.2 La desintegración de Yugoslavia y la guerra en Bosnia Herzegovina (1992-1995)……………………………………………………………………………….31 1.3 Etnografía del post-socialismo y la ciudad……………………………………………………38 1.3.1 La ciudad socialista…………………………………………………………………….42 1.3.2 La ciudad post-socialista…………………………………………………………….47 2. PRESENTACIÓN DEL CAMPO DE ESTUDIO……………………………………………………..65 2.1 Doble transición en Sarajevo……………………………………………………………………….66 2.2 Un complicado cuadro identitario e institucional………………………………………..70 2.2.1 Estereotipos balcánicos………………………………………………………………70 2.2.2 Vida común y komšiluk……………………………………………………………….72 2.2.3 Cuestión de etiquetas…………………………………………………………………81 2.2.4 Un Estado étnico………………………………………………………………………..89 2.2.5 Veze……………………………………………………………………………………………94 2.3 Ecosistema Sarajevo………………………………………………………………………………….101 2.3.1 La estructura física………………………………………………………………………101 2.3.1.1 Baščaršija: la ciudad otomana……………………………………….103 2.3.1.2 Centar: la ciudad austro-húngara………………………………….109 2.3.1.3 La ciudad socialista……………………………………………………….112 2.3.2 Dos ejes investigativos, dos terrenos………………………………………..114 2.3.2.1 Marijin Dvor………………………………………………………………….116 2.3.2.2 El monte Trebević…………………………………………………………124 2.3.2.3 Datos comparados de población…………………………………..128 3. CONSIDERACIONES METODOLÓGICAS………………………………………………………..133 3.1 Trabajo de campo……………………………………………………………………………………..134 3.1.1 Tiempos………………………………………………………………………………………134 3.1.2 Lugares……………………………………………………………………………………….138 3.1.3 Sujetos………………………………………………………………………………………..140 3.2 Fuentes documentales………………………………………………………………………………150 3.3 Escritura……………………………………………………………………………………………………151 4. MARIJIN DVOR…………………………………………………………………………………………….153 4.1 Una vuelta por el barrio…………………………………………………………………………….154 4.2 Un sótano en la calle Kralja Tvrtka…..………………………………………………………..159 4.2.1 Infancia u kvartu………….…………………………………………………………..162 7 4.2.2 Juventud u gradu..…………………………..……………………………………….173 4.3 “Hoy inquilino, mañana propietario del piso”…..……………………………………….193 4.3.1 El régimen de propiedad de la vivienda en Yugoslavia……………..193 4.3.2 Privatizatio interrupta…………..………………………………………………….201 4.3.3 “Una estafa histórica”…………..………………………………………………….205 4.4 Lo que queda del komšiluk………..………………………………………………………………215 4.4.1 “Una tremenda migración”……….……………………………………………..216 4.4.2 “Una contribución a esta ciudad”…………………………………………….225 4.4.3 Hard-core mahaluša……….………………………………………………………..235 5. EL MONTE TREBEVIĆ……………………………………………………………………………………251 5.1 “Bajo el Trebević soñábamos los mismos sueños”: glorias y desgracias de la montaña de Sarajevo …………………………………………………………………………….252 5.1.1 Merak………………………………………………………………………………………253 5.1.2 Grandes eventos………………………………………………………………………256 5.1.3 Razones para el olvido……………………………………………………………..258 5.2 La montaña: un paisaje herido…………………………………………………………………..262 5.2.1 Escombros……………………………………………………………………………….262 5.2.2 En terreno minado……………………………………………………………………268 5.2.3 Juegos de mapas………………………………………………………………………280 5.2.4 Más allá de la línea: la otra Sarajevo…………………………………………292 5.3 Vivir cuesta arriba: los barrios de Jarčedoli y Širokaća……………………………….301 5.3.1 Un día en Jarčedoli…………………………………………………………………..302 5.3.1.1 Udruženje……………………………………………………………………………303 5.3.1.2 Enver y Azra……………………………………………………………………….304 5.3.1.3 Sado y el wahabita……………………………………………………………..305 5.3.1.4 Hasan y Fatima……………………………………………………………………306 5.3.1.5 Mašo………………………………………………………………………………….311 5.3.2 Širokaća: los defensores…………………………………………………………..323 5.3.2.1 Kancelarija………………………………………………………………………….324 5.3.2.2 El comandante……………………………………………………………………328 5.3.2.3 Kolegialnost………………………………………………………………………..337 5.3.2.4 Okac……………………………………………………………………………………340 Epílogo. In memoriam: Izo………………………………………………………………………………349 6. CONCLUSIONES…………………………………………………………………………………………..351 BIBLIOGRAFÍA………………………………………………………………………………………………….365 B.1 Referencias bibliográficas…………………………………………………………………….366 B.2 Documentos en Internet……………………………………………………………………..374 B.3 Otros documentos……………………………………………………………………………….375 B.4 Filmografía…………………………………………………………………………………………..375 ANEXOS…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..377 ANEXO 1. Mapas y planos……………………………………………………………………………….378 ANEXO 2. Archivo fotográfico………………………………………………………………………….387 ANEXO 3. Glosario de términos locales y acrónimos……………………………………….413 8 0. PREFACIO 9 RAZONES TEORÉTICAS Y PERSONALES DE UNA DERIVA HACIA EL ESTE i. La primera vez que entré a Bosnia La primera vez que entré a Bosnia fue de noche. Era el verano de 2008: íbamos en un coche tres amigas, veníamos de pasar unos días en la costa dálmata. Habíamos cruzado la frontera en Metković después del atardecer, y durante el breve recorrido hasta Mostar, nuestro siguiente destino, lo único que podíamos divisar era lo poco que iluminaban nuestras luces, las casas y los árboles más cercanos al borde de la carretera. El resto del paisaje había
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