E1 Arquipelago dos Açores Imray-Iolaire CHARTS FOR THE ATLANTIC OCEAN ABOUT THIS CHART Compiled by DM Street Jnr DM Street Jr, the well known yachting author, has been working with Imray to compile the Imray-Iolaire charts of the eastern Caribbean since 1979. In 1989, after 9 Translatlantic voyages aboard the 46’ englineless yawl, Iolaire , which he owned for 53 years, he began compiling the Imray-Iolaire charts to the Atlantic Islands . His knowledge of the Azores has been gathered over a 35 year period. He explored the Azores aboard Iolaire in 1985, 1989 and 2005. In 2002 he visited some of the islands on the 48’ ketch Nimrod , and travelled by air and ferry to others in the group. In 2009, courtesy of the Azorean harbour department and tourist office, Street spent two weeks visiting and exploring all the islands by air and ferry. Carla Cook’s help in obtaining the latest information on marinas and harbours has been IMPORTANT tremendous and Bob Siverman’s 1981 Cruising Guide to the Azores has been used For the latest chart extensively, with his permission, in the preparation of these notes. The author and publishers believe that this chart is the most accurate and up to date corrections visit available of the area it covers. It can, however, only remain so if mariners notify the www.imray.com publishers of any inaccuracy or need for correction of which they may be aware. Street’s Caribbean Guides cover sailing from the western end of Puerto Rico, east and south through the islands to Trinidad, then west along the Venezuelan coast and The information shown on charts is offshore islands to Aruba. The original guide, which is a nice bit of nostalgia, plus the liable to constant change; Imray three guides covering the Western end of Puerto Rico to Trinidad are available from: ensures that every chart is correct to Bluewater Books and Charts www.bluewaterweb.com the printing date shown below. Landfall Navigation www.landfallnavigation.com Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd www.imray.com Corrections received after this date Internet sales for current and out of print editions are available from: may be downloaded from iuniverse.com, alibris.co.uk and Amazon.com www.imray.com as Correction Five popular sailing videos made in the late 1980s/early 1990s featuring D M Street Jr Notices. These are regularly updated are now available as DVDs. The most popular, Transatlantic with Street , the story of and the website should be checked. Iolaire’s 1985 transatlantic via Vigo, Madeira, Canaries, Cape Verdes has been highly recommended by Herb McCormick and Tom Cunliffe. Smartphone users can TheSailingChannel.TV offers all five videos in one digital package, The Complete Street , link directly to at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thecompletestreet the Corrections Notice For full information go to www.street-iolaire.com for this chart Street has been in the marine insurance business for 48 years, for 44 of them placing using the QR code. insurance with Lloyds of London through Lloyds brokers. Contact him regarding insurance at [email protected]

Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd Edition date: June 2016 Wych House The Broadway St Ives Cambridgeshire PE27 5BT England

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Flores Vila das Lajes Electronic versions of this Graciosa Vila da Praia chart Terceira Porto das Velas São Jorge Praia da Vitória Faial Angra do Heroísmo Imray charts are also available as Horta Pico apps for iPad and iPhone in Lajes raster format in the Imray Chart Navigator series. The series also São Miguel includes chart sets from official Ponta Delgada Vila Franco hydrographic offices. do Campo Search ‘Marine Imray Charts’ on the App Store. Santa Maria Vila do Porto

1 Although the wind in the summer months TIDES Pilotage notes by - June until early September - is generally DM Street, Jr from the west, it can come from any The rise and fall of tide is minimal, direction. If anchored outside a marina, some approximately 1.7m/6ft at springs and crew members should always be left on 1.2m/4ft at neaps. Except in the Pico channel, board so that if the wind shifts the anchor the current produced by the rise and fall of can be picked up and the boat hove too tide can be ignored. However at the tips of offshore until the shore side crew returns. the islands there may be a substantial tidal All harbours and coves in the Azores are effect but seldom more than one knot. In the affected by the continual Atlantic surge. Pico channel the tide sets northwest/ E1 ARQUIPELAGO DOS AÇORES There is always swell from the southwest and southeast. Exact times should be available in Horta. The Azores, a group of 8 islands spreading often a northwest swell crossing it, which can make the inside of small harbours and The local newspapers give the time of 320M east and west at approximately 38ºN, high and low water every day; just note it have been a popular stop for boats sailing coves a bit like the inside of a washing machine. down one day, log it in and you will find that from the Caribbean to Europe ever since it is approximately 50 minutes later each day. Columbus landed on the north coast of Santa That it is not safe to leave boats at anchor outside marinas or harbours is illustrated by By checking the meridian passage of the Maria at Anjo in 1493 en route to Spain after moon (six hours after moonrise) high water discovering the islands of the eastern the fact that the Azorean fishermen dry sail their fishing boats. At the end of a day’s in the Azores is approximately 7h30min. Caribbean. The islands have been a cruising Everywhere in the world the tide floods ground for British yachts since the late 19th fishing they head for the ramp, attach a wire to the stem fitting and, using a wire lead to heading east, ebbs heading west but is of century. Josh Slocum visited Horta in 1909 on course bent by land masses and islands his shake down cruise from Provincetown a winch via snatch blocks, haul their boats aboard Spray . In the early 1920s Claude out of the water. This is not only done with HIGH WATER FULL AND CHANGE Worth cruised to the Azores in Tern IV and small skiffs but also with inboard powered fishing boats up to about 30’. The time of high water at each location described the cruise well in his book Yacht during full and new moons (full & change) Cruising . I also well remember when, after In many ports there is no ramp, just a small quay with a crane. At the end of a day’s occurs at a set time after the meridian the 1955 Fastnet race, in the days when passage of the moon for each location. ocean racers also did extensive cruising, fishing the boat is brought in under the Bloodhound took off on a one month cruise crane, the lifting wire hook is attached to the The time of the meridian passage for each to the Azores. lifting ring on the boat’s sling and the boat day can be found in Nautical Almanac, and The Azores are truly the crossroads of the is hoisted clear of the water. With even the in Compass magazine. Atlantic, 2,200M from the Newport area, slightest swell this requires a high degree of eg Location X – HW F & C 2h30m (from the 1,800M from Bermuda, 2,100M from seamanship. table on the chart) Antigua, approximately 1,200M from On the road maps ‘Port’ often denotes a Meridian passage at X for Y date is, say, southwest Ireland, Falmouth or Brest, 750M small cove where boats are launched and 0200hrs (from Nautical Almanac or Compass from Lisbon and 900M from Gibraltar. retrieved on a ramp or via a crane rather magazine) than a real port. Every year from late-May to early June the Thus HW on Y date will be at 0430hrs. HW islands are flooded with boats heading from A look at the weather charts shows that there are a fair number of calm spells during will be approximately 50mins later each the Eastern Caribbean to Europe. A following day. substantial number of boats cruise down the summer months: June 15% (4½ days), from Ireland, England and France, plus a few July 22% (6½ days), August 10% (3 days); GROUND SWELL come September you should be leaving. from the States. Do not leave the Caribbean All the islands in the Atlantic are affected by heading for the Azores until the end of the If you are getting ready to leave and the wind is calm or light, check and wait for the northwest ground swell caused by bad first week in May. Many boats have got storms in the North Atlantic and completely caught in April gales en-route to the Azores. wind to come in. I well remember how Iolaire had a very unhappy crew in 1995. The independent of local weather conditions. CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION wind was light, the crew was enjoying the The ground swell season starts mid-late delights of Horta and the camaraderie of October and runs through April and You must enter and clear whenever you sometimes into early May. It should not, arrive or depart from an island in the Azores. Café Sport but the skipper wanted to leave to get on to Ireland for some classic regattas. therefore, be a problem for yachts cruising However the officers are universally helpful, the Azores, which should only be in the area cooperative, and cheerful – often a The engineless Iolaire left in light airs but the wind died and 36 hours after leaving Horta between early June and mid September at wonderful change for boats arriving from the latest. the Caribbean. The port captains in the the crew of Iolaire could still see the top of marinas will either take care of the paper Pico peaking above the horizon. SURGE work for you or will point you in the right FOG In the Azores there is an ever present surge direction. On the islands where there is no In the old days, before the advent of GPS as well as the regular southwest swell but marina, relax, as the immigration officer will when the lows pass north of the Azores they come and find you. navigation, the Azores were, with great justification, referred to as ‘the disappearing generate a northwest swell that comes into WEATHER islands’. This is because on a clear day you the prevailing southwest swell at right angles. This produces a surge inside the The climate of the Azores is mild with can sail by an island in the Azores no more than a mile off without seeing it. Frequently, harbours hence the Azorean fishermen dry average temperatures varying from sailing their boats. 20ºC/70ºF in summer to 15ºC/58ºF in winter. although it is clear offshore, heavy fog In summer it is comfortable during the day, banks, extending up to a mile offshore, ANCHORS AND ANCHORING but a fleece, sweater or jacket is required as surround the islands. If you are approaching the Azores and the The majority of the time when cruising the soon as the sun goes down. Winter is mild Azores your boat will be well secured in a but very much like southwest Ireland and weather is clear but you suddenly encounter fog, it is very likely that there is an iceberg marina. When exploring and anchoring southwest England in spring and fall, not too outside of marinas you will be anchoring in cold but one gale after another passes hidden in the fog! Look carefully at the Imray-Iolaire North Atlantic Ocean Passage deep water with rocky bottom. All too often through. the water will be too deep to allow the use Water temperatures are 17ºC/63ºF in Chart 100 and you will note that icebergs have been reported outside the normal of a trip line and you may discover that the summer, 22ºC/72ºF in winter. If swimming for anchor is fouled under a rock. If the water is any amount of time in the summer it is wet range. Almost a dozen icebergs are reported on the course approaching the Azores from too deep to dive down and free it you may suit weather. have to cut the anchor rode and lose a great A look at the weather charts on the back Bermuda or the States. Even sailing direct from Antigua to the Azores via the Great length line or chain along with your anchor. of Imray Iolaire Passage Chart 100 shows that There are two solutions to this problem, the Azores are well within the gale area Circle route there is one iceberg southwest of the Azores almost on the course line. make up an Azorean fisherman’s anchor, or most of the year. In the summer the Azores anchor with a becued anchor set up. are on the edge of it. Anchorages and Finally, note that there have been a half dozen icebergs reported south of the Azores. The Azorean fishermen use anchors that marinas are affected by the swells created by are basically a six pronged grapple hook the gales that pass by close to the north of made out of 3/8” or 1/2” rebar. If the anchor the Azores. is caught under a rock they just heave away until the hook that is caught under the rock

2 of which not much bigger than the length of manager for details as to who does what, Becued anchor the boat. There are no anchorages in the and who is the most reliable. Now that Santa Lashing Azores where you will need a Bahamian Maria has a very nice harbour and marina at Shackle moor on account of reversing tide but you Vila do Porto there is also infrastructure to will almost always need to put down a support yachting here. proper moor i.e. two anchors out in 180º apart to minimize the swing circle or you are HAULING likely to swing ashore. In Horta there is little room to store boats so hauling must be a quick in and out COMMUNICATIONS essentially limited to 7 days. Angra do

A fouled anchor can be broken out if it has been becued. VHF works well, but remember it is line of Herisimo, Praia da Vitoria and Vila do Porto, When sufficient force is applied to the rode to break the lashing, sight and the islands are high. If you are on meanwhile, all have ample space for hauling the rode will lift the anchor from its crown. the opposite side of the island from the and storing the boat out of the water. station you are calling they will not hear you. Storing boats ashore for the winter is, Similarly mobile phones work well but you therefore, a viable proposition in these two Azorean will occasionally find blank spots when ports. fisherman’s anchor ashore. The above are the only places that are Internet cafés and locations with free WiFi accustomed to hauling yachts. The other can be found. Fax machines are rapidly places with big lifts are strictly for local disappearing from modern communication fishing boats and would only haul a yacht systems but you may be able to find one in too big to be hauled in the above harbours either the marina office or in the post office. in an absolute emergency. Sending mail from the Azores can be done easily via the post office. For incoming mail I MARINAS AND HARBOURS recommend that you have it accumulated at There are now marinas on every island a home address and forwarded by courier. except Corvo and Graciosa. Forwarding post to any island in the Atlantic In Flores, São Jorge, Pico and Vila Franco basin and expecting it to arrive reliably is the do Campo the marinas are small, with a height of optimism. limited number of berths for visiting yachts. bends and the anchor/grapple comes free. WiFi coverage is expanding rapidly; most Once ashore they heat the bent prong and Size in these marinas is limited to about of the marinas have WiFi which can be 15m/50‘. bend it back in place. accessed by boats at anchor off the marinas. If you are planning to try to spend some Horta is very crowded, especially from late In 2009 WiFi in hotels was difficult and May to the end of June, and boats often time anchored out rather than in marinas I expensive. advise having a Azorean fishing anchor anchor out in the harbour. This may change made up but use stainless steel rather than in years to come as a cruise ship and ferry INFRASTRUCTURE TO SUPPORT basin has been created at the north end of rebar as the rebar will rust and make a mess YACHTING of the foredeck, or if made out of rebar have Horta harbour. The south (commercial) end it galvanized. Until Duncan Sweet opened Mid-Atlantic of Horta harbour is being converted for use To rig a becued anchor, disconnect the Yacht Services in 1993 there was no by yachts but the operation is going very chain from the normal position and infrastructure to support yachting in the slowly. reshackle the chain to where a tripping line Azores other than Bob Silverman who Angra do Heroísmo has a moderate is normally attached. Lay the chain along the repaired sails up in his house overlooking the amount of space for visiting yachts, whilst top of the anchor and secure the link on the harbour of Horta Praia do Vitoria has little room but its chain that lines up with the top of the For many years Mid-Atlantic was not only harbour (with big breakwaters) creates a big anchor to the normal shackling position with the only name in town in Horta but in the sheltered basin where a yacht can safely a number of turns of 1/8” nylon or Dacron entire Azores! In Horta the business now has hang on its anchor and the entire crew goes flag halyard. some competition. I strongly recommend ashore and explores. This and Horta are the Anchor in the normal fashion but if, when that you make no arrangements to have only safe anchorages in the entire Azores. you weigh anchor, the anchor is hooked work done until you have checked with the With the expansion of the marina in Ponta under a rock, once you come up to short stay marina manager. He has a regularly updated Delgada there will be ample space for with a good powerful anchor windlass the list of people who are qualified to work on visiting yachts and no size limitations. lashing line should break. If it does not open yachts. Likewise, the creation of the new harbour the throttle the lashing line should break, All yachts arriving in the Azores have and marina in Vila do Porto should provide the anchor will up end and come free. If that sailed at least a thousand miles to get to ample space for visiting yachts but size is does not break the lashing line, attach a there and, depending on how bad the limited to 18m/60’. chain hook to the chain, shackle a block to weather has been, 10% –20% of the arrivals YACHT CLUBS AND CLUBE NAVALS the chain hook, run a line through the block will have equipment that has broken down and attach the end of the line to a strong and that the ship’s crew is not capable of There are substantial yacht clubs with bars point, lead the other end to a two speed repairing. You may, therefore, be at the end and dining facilities in Horta and Ponta cockpit winch, start cranking and the lashing of a long line of sailors waiting for Mid- Delgada. Clube Navals are usually a line will break. Atlantic or other firms to find time to do combined boat house or boat repair shop A good illustration as to how to use your repair. with a meeting room attached. They are cockpit winches to pick up the anchor There is also a moderate infrastructure to found on every island and there may be instead of using the anchor windlass is support yachting in Ponta Delgada - check several on the larger islands. Their main shown in the DVD Streetwise 1 . with the marina manager. purpose is to promote the maintenance and A Bahamian moor (referred to by the Be wary of anyone who is readily available racing of the traditional Azorean whale English yachtsman as a proper moor) should to carry out repairs, there may be a reason boat. The Clube Navals in São Jorge, Pico in be used in areas of reversing tide so that the that their workload is quiet. As I continually Madalena, and Vila do Porto also have small boat will swing in a small circle, the diameter say, do not make any arrangements to have bars and restaurants attached. Some clubs work done until you have spent three or four are involved in yacht racing with the days at happy hour listening to and ubiquitous Optis and other small boats. questioning fellow sailors. Throughout the year the different islands, In Terceira, Angra do Heroísmo, and Praia towns and villages hold festivals; there are da Vitoria, go to the marina managers who too many to be listed here but perhaps the will contact Pedro to organizes repairs. Like most notable for yachtsmen are the sailing Mid-Atlantic in the old days, he is the only festivals in Horta and Faial, Pico. Whale boats Arc of Swing name in town. assemble to demonstrate now dead whaling However, at Angra do Herisimo’s cleared techniques and rowing and sailing races are commercial pier 40 boats can now be out of held. the water at any one time. There is a 50 ton The festival in Horta takes place during lift and a 150 ton crane. Pedro, therefore, the last week in July and is the biggest. In BAHAMIAN MOOR now has competition from about four 2009 they had 37 whale boats on the line for companies that have opened in the yacht the races. The festival in Pico is smaller but service business. Check with the marina still had a 30 boat line up. 3 LANDFALLS IN THE AZORES Corvo is best visited by one of the MADALENA numerous launches that regularly run from When arriving in the Azores from Europe the Lajes to Corvo. Spend the night in one of the This is a good harbour to visit by early best landfall is São Miguel as the big guest houses. morning ferry from Horta. It is no place for a expanded marina in Ponta Delgada will yacht. That is why on this chart Madalena always have room for visiting yachts. If you was deleted and replaced with Lajes. arrive in Faial in late May or June you will FAIAL Upon arrival in Madalena, rent a car and probably discover the marina is full and you start exploring. It is definitely not a harbour will have to anchor out. If your boat is Horta, the main port, has an excellent for yachts. Organise overnight 15m/50’ or less another good landfall is marina with all the services that one would accommodation, arrive on the first ferry in Santa Maria, Vila do Porto, as the new expect and within walking distance of the the morning, explore all day, spend a night marina will probably have space. wonderful city of Horta. The controlling in a hotel or inexpensive pension, continue Arriving in the Azores from the States or depths are reportedly 4m in Horta north exploring on the second day and take the Bermuda, the logical landfall is Flores, the basin shoaling to 3m at the head of the evening ferry back to Horta. western most of the Azores (130M west of basin, Horta south basin has 6m. A sort of a Ashore, Madalena is a typically pleasant Faial). There may not be room in the marina rite of passage for all sailors is a visit to Azorean town. Look to your right after in Lajes Flores, but there is always room to Peter’s Café Sport. getting off the ferry and you will see the moor stern to the breakwater/dock; launch If there is no space in the marina, yachts Clube Naval with its restaurant and pleasant the dinghy to access the ladders as the dock anchor out between the marina and the terrace where an evening drink can be had is too high to access directly from the boat. main pier. At times there are as many as 40 while waiting for the ferry to depart. After you have enjoyed Flores for a few boats anchored in this area, which, with days sail on for the 130M to Faial with its wind shifts, sees boats swinging in circles of CAIS DO PICO marina in Horta. From there plan your cruise varying diameters, leaving little room for On the north coast, an anchorage can be had through the Azores. cruise ships and freighters to come alongside south of the 600’ long commercial If you’re arriving directly from the the main pier, at times there must be a lot of dock/breakwater. The harbour is sheltered as Caribbean, your decision of whether to head confusion and frayed tempers. This is an area long as the wind is not from northeast directly for Faial or stop off in Flores will were the port authority should install sand clockwise to southeast. There is a clube depend largely on you approach angle. If screws and moorings as has been done naval, and old whale factory being restored you are approaching the Azores from the extensively in the Virgin Islands and some as a museum and another small whaling west, Flores is the logical first stop, but if other areas of the Eastern Caribbean. museum; both will provide a day of approaching from the southwest or south The 3m pinnacle rock shown to the east of interesting exploration. the difference in sailing distance may be very the ferry pier is an approximate position slight, so landfall will be governed by the only. Boats drawing more than 3m are, SANTA CRUZ DE RIBEIRAS personal preferences of the crew. therefore, advised to avoid this area entirely. An anchorage can be found off the small While anchored out for a minimal fee all dock, sheltered from all winds except FLORES the services of the marina are available southeast clockwise to northwest. The village including WiFi which reaches the anchorage. has four whale boats and two towing LAJES A dock for cruise ships and inter-island launches. ferries has been constructed immediately There is now a marina in Lajes, but visitor north of the main harbour. This has freed up LAJES berths are limited and and can only the entire south end of the harbour for accommodate boats up to 15m/50’. This is the home of the largest collection of redevelopment for the yachting industry. Maximum size at the fueling point is whale watching tours, a couple of museums This will provide plenty of storage space for 18m/60’. The local fishermen have a low featuring fully equipped whale boats, a hauled yachts to undergo extensive repair opinion of the layout as they feel that winds number of shops selling scrimshaw, a big and alteration and possibly make overwinter from the east or northeast create a surge in clube naval with a number of whale boats storage of yachts ashore an economically the basin. If the marina is full, moor stern to and small modern racing boats. Needless to viable option. the main dock. +351 292 593 437 email say the club has a fleet of the ubiquitous ) The Azores are exposed to the full blast of [email protected]. Optis. At the end of August Lajes has a the winter storms. Bob Silverman who wrote Do not worry about customs and Whaler’s Week demonstrating how whales the first Cruising Guide to the Azores reports immigration, they are friendly and will find were chased and caught in the old days and that in the old days before the establishment you and papers will be signed on the hood also has a series of whale boat races. The of the marina yachts were stored in cradles of their car. festival attracts a large number of whale ashore on the main pier. Occasionally storms Within dinghy distance of the harbour is a boats, but not as many as Horta. If you miss would be so bad that boats would be beautiful waterfall. Ashore is a small village, the whale boat races in Horta, Lajes is a good washed out of their cradles. friendly bars and restaurants, WiFi, un-super place visit to see them. Overwintering in the marina in Horta is supermarkets that can take care of the basics In 2009 a double inner breakwater was possible but there is a surge problem. If and friendly taxi drivers that are most happy built creating an extremely sheltered marina, overwintering in Horta, it is essential that to show you their island. but it is small and only has four or five dock lines be well-protected from chafe, Lajes is sheltered from all directions except visitor’s berths. The biggest yacht that can ample fenders installed, and a very reliable from a blow from the southeast to east. If use this marina is 60’ and 9’ draft. A yacht of person be hired to regularly check the boat that comes on, an anchorage can be found this size had better have a competent crew and dock lines and be ready to stand by on a on the west coast of Flores off Faja Grande as the entrance to the marina requires four 24-hour basis whenever really bad storms but be forewarned anchors must be well set tight right angle turns. There is only one come through. This is essential as at times as despite the shelter from the wind berth suitable for boats of 50’ to 60’; the the surge means that no matter how provided by the 2,500’ high mountain, other berths are for boats 45’ and under. carefully the dock line and chafe gear has occasionally katabatic blast/williwaws of gale As of 2010 there was no electricity, water, been rigged, they will still have to be velocity will come blasting down off the showers or toilets in the marina. +351 292 adjusted or replaced, along with burst ) mountain and if you drag you will be blown 672 email [email protected]. fenders. off shore into deep water. Retrieving 200’ of English is spoken. chain with anchor on the end of it may not PICO To enter, approach the outer breakwater be too easy. If your anchor winch is not up to 38º24’N 28º14’.32W from seaward, give the the job, attach a chain hook to the chain, Like São Antao and Fogo in the Cape Verdes, end of the breakwater a berth of about 30 with a line attached to the chain hook and Pico is a wonderful island to explore but it is yards, then once past the end of the run the line to the cockpit winches as lacking in good harbours. Unless you can breakwater, turn to starboard almost 90º, described earlier. secure one of the few available berths inside and run parallel to the outer breakwater Lajes, the historic whaling port, some of the until the red buoy comes abeam to port, crew should stay on board while others are then make another right angle turn to port. CORVO ashore exploring. Pass midway between the end of the inner breakwater and the rock on the port hand. Corvo is an interesting little island, 10M Once past the end of the inner breakwater, north of Flores, but 20M from the anchorage make a right angle turn to starboard and at Lajes. There is no harbour at Corvo, nor is find a berth. There is little room to it possible to lay alongside the dock, you manoeuvre between the end of the must anchor off in a rather exposed pontoons and the shoal nearby. It is, anchorage. 4 therefore, advisable to send the dinghy into GRACIOSA SANTA CRUZ the marina to ascertain if there is enough room. Graciosa, the northernmost of the Azores, This is a very attractive town with a whaling There are a number of small villages with lies 20M north of São Jorge. It is a nice stop museum, a beautiful tree-shaded plaza with launching ramps, whale boats, small fishing for boats heading north back to Europe but mini-markets, shops, small restaurants and a boats, these are well worth a visit by car but a poor landfall as there is little chance of very attractive library that has some are not suitable for visits by boat. getting alongside the main pier in Vila da computers available for free use, but it is not Porto de Santo Amaro was at one time a Praia and no marina at all. a harbour to be visited by yachts. The north major ship building port. It has a small but There are three anchorages on Graciosa. coast of Graciosa has a number of pinnacle excellent museum that is a must visit. This is The north coast is an area to avoid. rocks rising out of deep water. A look at the where the Nunes brothers came from. The Vila da Praia, the main port with a 300m chart will convince the prudent mariner to Nunes Brothers are famous as the designers long dock breakwater and a small basin for avoid the area. and builders of the famous ‘Bear’s’ 30’ raised fishing boats. FOLGA deck racing boats of San Francisco bay and Portinho da Barra, a small cove near the also the builders or Errol Flynn’s Zaca . main town of Santa Cruz and the old Folga on the southwest corner of Graciosa anchorage off the south coast, Folga, was was, in years gone by, the major fishing port SÃO JORGE once the major fishing port of Graciosa. The of the island. It was popular with yachts main town of Santa Cruz is to be avoided as heading north as the small fish factory had San Jorge and its harbour of Velas are easily there is no basin, no dock where a yacht can good ice blocks. There are still a small visible from Horta. Bob Silverman says ‘just lay alongside, the anchorage is too exposed number of boats fishing from this port and put São Jorge on the bow and head for it on and there are various pinnacle rock ready to there is a popular bar and restaurant a course of 073ºmag 22M. On the final catch the unwary mariner. overlooking the anchorage. approach head for the end of the pier. Upon Again the assistant harbourmaster assured rounding the pier, round up and prepare to VILA DA PRAIA me that Folga was a good anchorage. Come anchor or enter the marina’. Vila da Praia is on the east coast of Graciosa in on a transit/range of 060ºmag on the small PORTO DE VELAS with an east west breakwater/dock 300m light and distinctive white pedestal until the long providing a moderately sheltered basin two points on the south side of the harbour There is a small marina with 16 berths always south of the dock. If it is not busy with come in line/transit, then turn to starboard kept free for visiting yachts in the summer. freighters it is possible to lie alongside the and anchor in a suitable depth. The The finger piers are suitable for boats of dock but the harbour office does not anchorage is sheltered from all directions 40/45’, one berth at the T head is suitable for monitor VHF. Once secured alongside the except clockwise from south to southwest. a boat of a maximum size of about 55’. If the dock a crew member should immediately go space is free, the float parallel to the to the harbourmaster’s office at the head of TERCEIRA breakwater can take a boat of any length, the pier and ask permission to lie alongside. Terceira is an excellent island to explore by but with draught limited to 3.5m. Space is so The controlling depths are reportedly 4m at both car and boat although both options restricted that it would be impossible to turn south end, shoaling to 3m mid basin and 1m have their difficulties. In both the major a boat inside the marina, it is a case of bow at the north end. towns, Angra do Heroísmo and Praia da in and backing out or backing in and bow When lying alongside remember the ever Vitoria, the road maps are excellent for out. +351 963 698 900 ) present Azorean surge. Rig chain leaders and exploring on foot but are insufficient for email [email protected]. chafing gear on dock lines and protect exploration by car as they do not indicate There is electricity and water at all berths. fenders with fender boards. one way roads. At times I was convinced I Toilets and showers, but no Laundromat. In A tolerable anchorage can be had south of was lost in a maze and would never be able town a clube naval runs a restaurant whose the dock. If the wind comes in from the east, to get out of town. profits go to supporting the local whaleboat. move and anchor behind Isla de Praia. If the The other problem is the fact that there If you can not fit in the marina you must wind goes southeast to south head north are three officials with overlapping anchor out as there is no possibility of lying and anchor in Portinho da Barra. The small jurisdictions: the maritime police, the port alongside the pier, it is too busy. You will be basin is strictly a fishing harbor but if space captains and the marina managers. Looking anchoring in 30-40’ of water, sand bottom is available they might be able to squeeze in at the regulations forwarded to me from the and good holding but it is essential to anchor one yacht. maritime police I am not sure if you are on a proper moor as the swinging room is allowed to explore the various nooks and strictly limited. The wind bounces off the PORTINHO DA BARRA crannies, little out ports that would provide high land, buildings and dock so the boat The assistant harbourmaster of Vila da Praia interesting anchorages in calm weather. will swing continually to and fro. insisted that Portinho da Barra is a safe Upon arrival, check with the marina CALHETA anchorage in all weathers despite being manager as to the actual situation. There completely open to the east. When I was may be regulations on the books that in Calheta is the second town of São Jorge with there in November 2009 there was a full gale practice are ignored. a small basin protected by a 55m pier. The blowing from the east. The north south bar, harbour is subjected to continual surge to with evidently only 8 or 9‘ of water over it, ANGRA DO HEROÍSMO the point that all the fishing boats are dry was a solid mass of breakers but inside the The marina in Angra do Heroísmo is now sailed, picked up by a crane and swung harbour was relatively calm and the local excellent as the commercial traffic (other ashore rather than launched and retrieved boats were not surging on their anchors. than ferries and small freighters) is now on a ramp. It has been difficult to obtain accurate routed to the big commercial harbour at the It is possible to anchor in the basin formed information so approach with caution and south end of Praia de Vitoría. The marina by the pier but it must be carefully done as when you pick up what appear to be manager says he saves berths for visiting the bottom is loose rock but with a few range/transit marks follow the line where yachts as follows, 15 berths for smaller boats, patches of sand that provide good holding. you will probably find 2m, possibly more. 18 for boats over 15m, 4 for boats over 20m Be warned that pinnacle rocks extend 12‘ to Once inside the harbour, round up and which is the largest size that can be 15‘ above the sand. If the boat swings whilst anchor. Rig a tripping line or use a becued accommodated. Larger boats can lay on a single anchor, the chances are the boat’s anchor as the bottom is reported to have a alongside the commercial jetty on a space mooring line will end up with one or two number of abandoned moorings. availability basis. There is plenty of room to half hitches around a pinnacle rock. Do NOT pick up a mooring buoy as they anchor outside the marina if you so desire. This information is from Paul and Jenny are for local fishing boats of 20 to 25’, not The marina has all the services that one Davies, owners of the schooner Ninita, a suitable for yachts. Land the dinghy at the would expect in a first class marina. replica of the 59’ schooner Nina that won the small pier; be sure to bring a dinghy anchor +351 295 540 000 1928 transatlantic race to Spain. They are the ) as the rough pier wall with chew up a dinghy email [email protected]. parents of the famous single hander ‘Sam’ in short order. In years gone by, if the wind went in to the Davies. Ashore there is a small clube naval that southeast, boats moved west to the supports the local whale boat and some anchorage west of Monte Brasil but small boat racing. There is a very new (and anchorage is no longer allowed here due to rather unimaginatevly designed) hotel an underwater cable. Why the harbour within walking distance. department does not set up a range/transit The town of Santa Cruz is within walking showing the location of the cable is beyond distance. me. If the location were shown, yachts could anchor clear of the cable. 5 PRAIA DA VITORIA VILA FRANCO DA CAMPO SANTA MARIA Praia da Vitoria is a big artificial harbour In 2002 the city government built a new Santa Maria is famous for two things. Firstly, originally built for the ships that were marina, superbly sheltered from storms and it was the landfall of Columbus when he servicing the big US base in the airport. They the ever present Azorean swell. Some boats returned from the new world. He anchored had difficulties building and maintaining the even overwinter here in the water. The on the north coast off Anjos in deep water port as with great regularity strong marina is small (59 berths) and and lost one of his anchors when he went to southeast or east storms would build up such accommodates boats up to about 18m/60’. leave. a sea that it would scatter the breakwater all The controlling depths are reportedly 3m, It is also famous as the site of the first over the harbour. shoaling to 2m north of the inner airfield in the Azores built in 1943 by the US The breakwaters were regularly rebuilt breakwater. as a landing place for planes being ferried to and strengthened and they have not been Space is limited so it is recommended that Europe from the States. How they got all the breached for many years now. The south side you do not arrive off the marina unless you equipment ashore to build the airport is of the harbour is the commercial section, have made and confirmed berthing space. beyond me as there is no natural harbour with facilities to handle the ro-ro and The marina has all the normal services one and the island is basically a plateau 300’ container ships, the large fishing fleet and a would expect in a first class marina. ) +351 high. The airport continued to be used as a huge travel lift capable of hauling even the 296 581 488 email [email protected]. refuelling stop for commercial aircraft on largest trawlers. Vila da Franco da Campo also has a very transatlantic flights right up until the mid- In the northeast corner of the harbour is a active fishing port with a hauling facility and 1980s. By then the range of aircraft had small but very pleasant marina. The channel yard to support the fishing fleet. There is a increased so much that they no longer had into the marina is marked by small unlit small boat building shop that not only to stop to refuel at either Santa Maria or yellow buoys. To enter, head for the south repairs wooden boats but still builds them in Bermuda when flying to the Caribbean or end of the breakwater, pick up the yellow the old fashioned way. South America. The airport is still used for buoys, leaving them to port and pass the When in Vila Franco da Campo, a good inter-island traffic but seldom do the big jets breakwater close aboard. As you approach dinghy expedition can be made to Ilheu da land. the end of the L of the breakwater come Vila and its cove (an old volcanic blow hole). sharply to starboard, almost kiss the end of Go out to the island either slightly after VILA DO PORTO the breakwater and look for a berth. Space dawn, or after 1600 when the excursion The old port of Vila do Porto has been is severely limited inside the basin so do not launches loaded with tourists will have expanded with the building of two enter until you have verified that there is departed. overlapping breakwaters which should space. The marina has all normal services, RIBEIRA QUENTE eliminate the surge inside the harbour. They including WiFi and two computers that are have built a marina, a hauling bay for a available for free. ) +351 295 512 082 This is a major fishing port with a big wide travel lift, a big flat area has been dug out email [email protected]. ramp. Over 40 boats were hauled there of the cliff to provide space to store hauled If there is no space in the marina it is not when I visited in November 2009. There is boats and to build shops to support the a problem as there is ample room to anchor also a 60 ton travel lift, a big shed where yachting industry that it is hoped the outside the marina in the north end of the wooden fishing boats are built. There is a harbour will attract. harbour in 4.5m/15‘ to 6m/20’ in sand - good friendly bar and restaurant right next to the Do not under any circumstance try to holding. This is the only place in the Azores hauling area. The restaurant is not a tourist enter this harbour at night as the old leading where a boat can be left at anchor and the restaurant but rather one to serve the lights will lead you right up on top of the whole crew can go ashore to explore. hungry fishermen. There is a inner breakwater. dock/breakwater on the eastern end of the The marina opened in 2010 and offers all SÃO MIGUEL harbour but yachts should not even think of the normal services but like any new marina São Miguel is the largest of the Azores; 35 lying alongside. If weather conditions or shipyard it will take a few years before the miles long with a population of 123,000 - an permit, anchor off and visit the village and operation is fully shaken down and really island well worth exploring via car. hauling facility via dinghy. The boat building well run. The controlling depths are workshop is well worth a visit. reportedly 4m at south end, shoaling to 3m PONTA DELGADA If the water is too deep for anchoring, mid basin and 1m at the north end. A 75 ton proceed 3M east to Povoação where, if your Ponta Delgada is the only real port available travel lift is available at the marina, as are boat draws 2m/7’ or less, you can anchor in to visiting yachts. All the other harbours are workshops to maintain boats while hauled. the basin of Povoação and visit Ribeira coves only suitable as temporary anchorages ) +351 296 882 282 Quente via dinghy. where one must be prepared to move at email [email protected] If you are touring the island via car, Ribeira short notice. There is a very attractive clube naval and Quente can be accessed by a rather hair In 2000 they built a small marina on the yacht club with small centreboard racing raising road that winds down the gorge north side of the harbour with berths for 40 boats, the ubiquitous Optis, a very friendly towards the harbour. boats. Most of the berths were for boats of bar and restaurant, plus the restaurant is a 13m/45’ maximum except along the south POVOAÇ ÃO bit of a museum. It has a complete hard hat wall where the length was basically diver’s suit, big hand powered air pump, a unlimited but draft over the entrance bar Povoação was the first town to be settled in typical small Azorean rowing fishing boat in was restricted to 9‘ at low water. the Azores. With EU money a small harbour frame and half planked and other bits of The situation has since changed as the bar has been built, strictly a breakwater and a memorabilia. has now been dredged to 4m and the area ramp, no dock whatsoever. Depth in the East of Porta da Vila is an anchorage off a to the west of the original marina has been harbour is reportedly 2.7m/9’. The village is nice sand beach but the anchorage is open completed creating a marina of 200 berths. said to be worth exploring. from west clockwise to east. It is only a The pontoon berths on the inner pontoons RABO DE PEIXE couple of miles east of the harbour so rather are for small boats of 6m/20‘ but as you go than taking the boat out of the marina and out in the marina the berths become larger Rabo de Peixe on the north coast is an open anchoring off the beach I would just put the to the point that the outer berths will roadstead with a breakwater; a big ramp dinghy in the water to visit the beach and accommodate boats up to 18m/60’. and a huge travel lift to service the large not have to worry about wind shifts, Alongside the east wall of the new marina fishing fleet. Before the building of the dragging anchor and the like. breakwater fishing from Rabo de Peixe must boats of up to 45m/150’ can be SÃO LOURENCO accommodated with more or less unlimited have been hard work and an exercise in draught. When the wind is in the SW there seamanship whenever launching and This is the westernmost anchorage in the is a surge problem, not really bad but when retrieving boats as there is absolutely no Azores, a nice spot to arrive if you are it occurs careful tending and rigging of dock shelter. coming from the west from Spain, Portugal lines is needed. The town is interesting in that it is on a or Gibraltar, and likewise a good departure The marina has all the normal services one steep hill. The fisherman live on the lower point for the same ports. would exspect in a top flight marina and is slopes. Historically they have had nothing to It is an open bay, sheltered from south within walking distance of the centre of do with the people that lived on the hill. The clockwise to north. If the wind is in the town. At the east end of the marina is a very upper village is very attractive and friendly, easterly quadrant forget this anchorage. hospitable YC with hauling facility and repair while the lower village is not. It is the only There are no facilities for visiting yachts, just unattractive village that I have encountered shops attached. ) +351 296 281 510 an open beach, houses mostly owned by email [email protected]. during my many explorations of the Azores. Azoreans living abroad who come to São

6 Lourenco in the summer and a number of small un pretentious but good restaurants. Anchored in this bay you are definitely off the tourist track. DEPARTURES FROM THE AZORES By the beginning of September all yachts should be on their way but some boats do what is referred to as the Atlantic round. From the Azores they head southeast 450M to Madeira, then on 150M to the Salvage Islands. From there on to the Canaries 150M to Graciosa , or 100M to Gran Canaria. After a few months in the Canaries they head 750M south to the Cape Verdes, a whole new cruising area. Come late spring mid-May it is time to head north 1,200M back to the Azores. Then after a month in the Azores they head back to Europe. Come September south to the wonderful rias of Galicia, north of Vigo then on to the Madeira Archipelago and continue the circuit. Street has met a few yachtsmen who have sailed this Atlantic circuit. When asked ‘why do you do this circuit rather than sailing to the Caribbean?’, the reply is, ‘it avoids the long transatlantic passage and means we do not have to deal with the Caribbean’s unfriendly and officious customs and immigration officials’.

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