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Italy's Best Trips 3 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ITALY’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 40 ROAD TRIPS Duncan Garwood, Brett Atkinson, Alexis Averbuck, Cristian Bonetto, Gregor Clark, Peter Dragicevich, Paula Hardy, Virginia Maxwell, Stephanie Ong, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Regis St Louis, Nicola Williams SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to Italy ............................. 7 Italy Highlights ................................ 8 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu If You Like... ................................... 20 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Need to Know ................................. 22 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly City Guide ....................................... 24 s Swimming a Air- Italy by Region ............................... 30 Conditioning Pool Italy Classic Trips .......................... 32 MAP LEGEND outes is Trip Route Trip 1 Numbers Trip Detour ON THE ROAD Linked Trip #9 Trip Stop Walk Route Tollway 2 Walking tour Freeway Trip Detour Primary Grand Secondary 1 Tour ................ 12–14 Days 35 oute aes Tertiary Lane E44 E-road network World Heritage Unsealed Road M100 National network 2 Wonders ..................14 Days 49 Plaza/Mall ydoay Steps River/Creek Tunnel Intermittent River NORTHERN ITALY .............63 Pedestrian Overpass Swamp/Mangrove Walk Track/Path Canal Savoy Palace Water 3 Circuit .................. 3–4 Days 67 oundaies Dry/Salt/ International Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Gourmet Cliff 4 Piedmont ...................6 Days 75 eas Wall Beach Poulation Cemetery Meandering the (Christian) Capital (National) 5 Maritime Alps ...........7 Days 83 Cemetery (Other) Capital (State/Province) Park City/Large Town Forest Italian Town/Village Urban Area 6 Riviera ......................4 Days 91 ansot Sportsground Airport Cinematic Cinque Cable Car/ 7 Terre ......................5–7 Days 99 Funicular Parking Northern Train/Railway 8 Tram Cities ...................7–10 Days 109 Underground Train Station CONTENTS The Graceful Italian The Venetian 9 Lakes .....................5–7 Days 119 g Dolomites..................7 Days 183 A Weekend at Trieste to a Lago di Garda ...........4 Days 131 h Sappada ....................7 Days 193 Roof of b Italy ...........................6 Days 139 CENTRAL ITALY ..............205 Roaming Around Valle i Rome .........................3 Days 209 c d’Aosta ......................5 Days 147 Abruzzo’s Wild Grande Strada j Landscapes ..............6 Days 217 d delle Dolomiti .....7–10 Days 155 Etruscan Tuscany A Venetian k & Lazio ................ 3–4 Days 225 e Sojourn ................ 5–6 Days 165 Monasteries of Tuscany Valpolicella Wine l & Umbria...................5 Days 233 f Country .....................4 Days 175 Northern Italy p63 Central Italy p205 Southern Italy p289 3 Contents cont. Green Heart Across the Lucanian m of Italy .................. 4–5 Days 241 y Apennines ............ 5–7 Days 353 Piero della Francesca The Calabrian n Trail ...........................7 Days 251 z Wilderness ........ 8–10 Days 361 Tuscan Wine Wonders of Ancient o Tour ...........................4 Days 259 { Sicily ................ 12–14 Days 371 Tuscan Sicilian p Landscapes ......... 3–4 Days 269 | Baroque ....................5 Days 383 Foodie Emilia- Sardinia’s q Romagna ...................7 Days 277 } South Coast ......... 4–5 Days 391 Emerald SOUTHERN ITALY ...........289 ~ Coast .................... 5–7 Days 399 Shadow of Historic r Vesuvius .............. 2–3 Days 293 ¤ Sardinia ....................7 Days 407 Southern s Larder ................... 3–4 Days 303 Amalfi t Coast .........................7 Days 311 ROAD TRIP Cilento Coastal ESSENTIALS u Trail ...................... 4–5 Days 321 Puglia’s Pilgrim Italy Driving Guide .......................417 v Trail ...........................4 Days 329 Italy Travel Guide ........................ 423 Valle w d’Itria ................... 2–3 Days 337 Language ...................................... 432 Index ............................................. 436 Salento x Surprises ............. 5–7 Days 345 Top: Parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmigiana) 4 Bottom: Scoglio di Pizzomunno, Vieste ANTONMARIA GALANTE/SHUTTERSTOCK © MARCIN KRZYZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments help make our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that BEHIND your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet. com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions. THE Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, SCENES websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. WRITER THANKS Isole Tremiti. Special thanks to knowledge of the Mezzogiorno. Anna Tyler for the commission, In Sicily, special thanks to Ornella DUNCAN GARWOOD and to Carol on our gelato- and Tuzzolino, Giorgio Ferravioli and A big grazie to all the locals aperitivi-fuelled reconnaissance Carla Bellavista, Pierfrancesco and tourist office staff who trip 12 months earlier. Palazzotto, Lorenzo Chiaramonte, helped and offered advice: Sara Rosario Fillari, Giorgio Puglisi, ALEXIS AVERBUCK Cappelli, Roberta Magi, Elisa Gennaro Mattiucci, Ernesto Ahhh, Sardinia. My thanks go Fabri, Barbara Ravaglia, Cinzia Magri, Giovanni Gurrieri, Joe to this ever-fascinating and at Narni, Silvia in Perugia, Nicola Brizzi, Giuseppe Savà, Luigi gorgeous island, and its warm Santarelli, Luana Fringuelli, Nifosì, Antonio Adamo, Cesare and welcoming people. It has Carolina Grisanti, Vania Di Cicco, Setmani, Norma Gritti and been a lifelong dream to get Ilaria Lucentini and Giulia in Cristina Delli Fiori. In Campania, to know Sardinia and reality Tarquinia. Thanks also to Anna grazie di cuore to my Re e Regina exceeded all fantasies. Huge Tyler at Lonely Planet for all her di Napoli, Federica Rispoli and thanks to my road-warrior support. Finally, a huge hug to Ivan Palmieri, as well as to Igor sister and Zodiac-skipper, Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick. Milanese. Rachel Averbuck, for dropping BRETT ATKINSON everything and joining me in our GREGOR CLARK Exploring southern Italy and Sicily zippy Fiat cabriolet when I told Grazie mille to the many dozens with my LP hat on was a great her how grand it is! Many thanks of people who shared their experience thanks to Anna Rita in to Anna Tyler who helmed the love and knowledge of Sicily, Bari, Luisa in Lecce and Domenico project with superb attention to Trentino and South Tyrol with in Reggio Calabria. Thanks also detail, guidance and grace. me, especially Fausto Ceschi, to Amy in Matera for helping Fabiana Mariotti, Micol Beittel, me negotiate the town’s storied CRISTIAN BONETTO Stefano Musaico, Mark, Giovanna, Grazie infinite to all those who laneways, and to Tony in Vieste Angela, Francesco, Marcello, shared their love and intimate for securing me a slow boat to the Paola, Carmelina, Marian, Diego THIS BOOK and Paula Hardy. This guidebook Martire, Kate Morgan, Lauren was produced by the following: O’Connell, Susan Paterson, This 3rd edition of Lonely Destination Editor Anna Tyler Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Planet’s Italy’s Best Trips Twomey, Simon Williamson guidebook was researched and Regional Senior Cartographer Assisting Cartographer Mick written by Duncan Garwood, Anthony Phelan Garrett Brett Atkinson, Alexis Averbuck, Senior Product Editor Elizabeth Cristian Bonetto, Gregor Clark, Jones Cover Researcher Meri Peter Dragicevich, Paula Hardy, Product Editor Kate James Blazevski Virginia Maxwell, Stephanie Ong, Book Designer Jessica Rose Thanks to Andrea Aiolfi, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Alexandra Bruzzese, Melanie Assisting Editors Judith Dankel, Gemma Graham, Regis St Louis and Nicola Bamber, Michelle Coxall, Andrea Martin Heng, Joe Revill, Sophia Williams. The previous edition Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Jennifer Seymour, Ross Taylor, Jo-Ann was written by Duncan Garwood Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Anita Titmarsh, Brana Vladisavljevic Isalska, Kellie Langdon, Jodie 434 and Patrizia. Back in Vermont, big Sapori Valdichiana Senese, Maja REGIS ST LOUIS hugs to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, Malbasa, Lucrezia Lorini, Vanessa I’m grateful to countless Italians who always make coming home Brezzi, Roberta Benini, Gerardo and expats who provided tips and the best part of the trip. Giorgi, Caterina Mori and Silvia insight into Liguria, Valle d’Aosta Fiorentini. Thanks to Anna Tyler and Piemonte while on the road. PETER DRAGICEVICH for giving me this and many past Special thanks to Catherina I still pinch myself that my work Italy gigs, and thanks and much Unger, Eugenio Bordoni and continues to allow me to spend love to my favourite travelling Arbaspàa staff in Cinque Terre, time in such a magical city as companion, Peter Handsaker, who Erika Carpaneto and Gloria Faccio Venice, and for that I have editor loves Italy as much as I do. in Turin, and Alberto and Fulvio extraordinaire Anna Tyler to Peluffo in Noli. Hugs to Cassandra STEPHANIE ONG thank. Many thanks to Lonely and our daughters Magdalena A big heartfelt thanks to Anna Planet Local Jo-Ann Titmarsh for and Genevieve, who joined for the Tyler for trusting me with this your good company and excellent great
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