©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ITALY’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 40 ROAD TRIPS

Duncan Garwood, Brett Atkinson, Alexis Averbuck, Cristian Bonetto, Gregor Clark, Peter Dragicevich, Paula Hardy, Virginia Maxwell, Stephanie Ong, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Regis St Louis, Nicola Williams SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo

Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP

Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to ...... 7 Italy Highlights...... 8 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu If You Like...... 20 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Need to Know...... 22 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly City Guide...... 24 s Swimming a Air- Italy by Region...... 30 Conditioning Pool Italy Classic Trips...... 32 MAP LEGEND

outes is Trip Route Trip 1 Numbers Trip Detour ON THE ROAD Linked Trip #9 Trip Stop Walk Route Tollway 2 Walking tour Freeway Trip Detour Primary Grand Secondary 1 Tour...... 12–14 Days 35 oute aes Tertiary Lane E44 E-road network World Heritage Unsealed Road M100 National network 2 Wonders...... 14 Days 49 Plaza/Mall ydoay Steps River/Creek Tunnel Intermittent River NORTHERN ITALY...... 63 Pedestrian Overpass Swamp/Mangrove Walk Track/Path Canal Savoy Palace Water 3 Circuit...... 3–4 Days 67 oundaies Dry/Salt/ International Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Gourmet Cliff 4 Piedmont...... 6 Days 75 eas Wall Beach Poulation Cemetery Meandering the (Christian) Capital (National) 5 Maritime Alps...... 7 Days 83 Cemetery (Other) Capital (State/Province) Park City/Large Town Forest Italian Town/Village Urban Area 6 Riviera...... 4 Days 91 ansot Sportsground Airport Cinematic Cinque Cable Car/ 7 Terre...... 5–7 Days 99 Funicular Parking Northern Train/Railway 8 Tram Cities...... 7–10 Days 109 Underground Train Station CONTENTS

The Graceful Italian The Venetian 9 Lakes...... 5–7 Days 119 g Dolomites...... 7 Days 183

A Weekend at Trieste to a Lago di Garda...... 4 Days 131 h Sappada...... 7 Days 193

Roof of b Italy...... 6 Days 139 CENTRAL ITALY...... 205 Roaming Around Valle i Rome...... 3 Days 209 c d’Aosta...... 5 Days 147 Abruzzo’s Wild Grande Strada j Landscapes...... 6 Days 217 d delle Dolomiti...... 7–10 Days 155 Etruscan Tuscany A Venetian k & Lazio ...... 3–4 Days 225 e Sojourn...... 5–6 Days 165 Monasteries of Tuscany Valpolicella Wine l & Umbria...... 5 Days 233 f Country...... 4 Days 175

Northern Italy p63

Central Italy p205

Southern Italy p289

3 Contents cont.

Green Heart Across the Lucanian m of Italy...... 4–5 Days 241 y Apennines...... 5–7 Days 353

Piero della Francesca The Calabrian n Trail...... 7 Days 251 z Wilderness...... 8–10 Days 361

Tuscan Wine Wonders of Ancient o Tour...... 4 Days 259 { Sicily...... 12–14 Days 371

Tuscan Sicilian p Landscapes...... 3–4 Days 269 | Baroque...... 5 Days 383

Foodie Emilia- Sardinia’s q Romagna...... 7 Days 277 } South Coast...... 4–5 Days 391

Emerald SOUTHERN ITALY...... 289 ~ Coast...... 5–7 Days 399 Shadow of Historic r Vesuvius...... 2–3 Days 293 ¤ Sardinia...... 7 Days 407 Southern s Larder...... 3–4 Days 303

Amalfi t Coast...... 7 Days 311 ROAD TRIP

Cilento Coastal ESSENTIALS u Trail...... 4–5 Days 321

Puglia’s Pilgrim Italy Driving Guide ...... 417 v Trail...... 4 Days 329 Italy Travel Guide...... 423 Valle w d’Itria...... 2–3 Days 337 Language...... 432 Index...... 436 Salento x Surprises...... 5–7 Days 345

Top: Parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmigiana) 4 Bottom: Scoglio di Pizzomunno, Vieste ANTONMARIA GALANTE/SHUTTERSTOCK © MARCIN KRZYZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments help make our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that BEHIND your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet. com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions. THE Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, SCENES websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

WRITER THANKS Isole Tremiti. Special thanks to knowledge of the Mezzogiorno. Anna Tyler for the commission, In Sicily, special thanks to Ornella DUNCAN GARWOOD and to Carol on our gelato- and Tuzzolino, Giorgio Ferravioli and A big grazie to all the locals aperitivi-fuelled reconnaissance Carla Bellavista, Pierfrancesco and tourist office staff who trip 12 months earlier. Palazzotto, Lorenzo Chiaramonte, helped and offered advice: Sara Rosario Fillari, Giorgio Puglisi, ALEXIS AVERBUCK Cappelli, Roberta Magi, Elisa Gennaro Mattiucci, Ernesto Ahhh, Sardinia. My thanks go Fabri, Barbara Ravaglia, Cinzia Magri, Giovanni Gurrieri, Joe to this ever-fascinating and at Narni, Silvia in Perugia, Nicola Brizzi, Giuseppe Savà, Luigi gorgeous island, and its warm Santarelli, Luana Fringuelli, Nifosì, Antonio Adamo, Cesare and welcoming people. It has Carolina Grisanti, Vania Di Cicco, Setmani, Norma Gritti and been a lifelong dream to get Ilaria Lucentini and Giulia in Cristina Delli Fiori. In Campania, to know Sardinia and reality Tarquinia. Thanks also to Anna grazie di cuore to my Re e Regina exceeded all fantasies. Huge Tyler at Lonely Planet for all her di Napoli, Federica Rispoli and thanks to my road-warrior support. Finally, a huge hug to Ivan Palmieri, as well as to Igor sister and Zodiac-skipper, Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick. Milanese. Rachel Averbuck, for dropping BRETT ATKINSON everything and joining me in our GREGOR CLARK Exploring southern Italy and Sicily zippy Fiat cabriolet when I told Grazie mille to the many dozens with my LP hat on was a great her how grand it is! Many thanks of people who shared their experience thanks to Anna Rita in to Anna Tyler who helmed the love and knowledge of Sicily, Bari, Luisa in Lecce and Domenico project with superb attention to Trentino and South Tyrol with in Reggio Calabria. Thanks also detail, guidance and grace. me, especially Fausto Ceschi, to Amy in Matera for helping Fabiana Mariotti, Micol Beittel, me negotiate the town’s storied CRISTIAN BONETTO Stefano Musaico, Mark, Giovanna, Grazie infinite to all those who laneways, and to Tony in Vieste Angela, Francesco, Marcello, shared their love and intimate for securing me a slow boat to the Paola, Carmelina, Marian, Diego

THIS BOOK and Paula Hardy. This guidebook Martire, Kate Morgan, Lauren was produced by the following: O’Connell, Susan Paterson, This 3rd edition of Lonely Destination Editor Anna Tyler Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Planet’s Italy’s Best Trips Twomey, Simon Williamson guidebook was researched and Regional Senior Cartographer Assisting Cartographer Mick written by Duncan Garwood, Anthony Phelan Garrett Brett Atkinson, Alexis Averbuck, Senior Product Editor Elizabeth Cristian Bonetto, Gregor Clark, Jones Cover Researcher Meri Peter Dragicevich, Paula Hardy, Product Editor Kate James Blazevski Virginia Maxwell, Stephanie Ong, Book Designer Jessica Rose Thanks to Andrea Aiolfi, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Alexandra Bruzzese, Melanie Assisting Editors Judith Dankel, Gemma Graham, Regis St Louis and Nicola Bamber, Michelle Coxall, Andrea Martin Heng, Joe Revill, Sophia Williams. The previous edition Dobbin, Emma Gibbs, Jennifer Seymour, Ross Taylor, Jo-Ann was written by Duncan Garwood Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Anita Titmarsh, Brana Vladisavljevic Isalska, Kellie Langdon, Jodie 434 and Patrizia. Back in Vermont, big Sapori Valdichiana Senese, Maja REGIS ST LOUIS hugs to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, Malbasa, Lucrezia Lorini, Vanessa I’m grateful to countless who always make coming home Brezzi, Roberta Benini, Gerardo and expats who provided tips and the best part of the trip. Giorgi, Caterina Mori and Silvia insight into Liguria, Valle d’Aosta Fiorentini. Thanks to Anna Tyler and Piemonte while on the road. PETER DRAGICEVICH for giving me this and many past Special thanks to Catherina I still pinch myself that my work Italy gigs, and thanks and much Unger, Eugenio Bordoni and continues to allow me to spend love to my favourite travelling Arbaspàa staff in Cinque Terre, time in such a magical city as companion, Peter Handsaker, who Erika Carpaneto and Gloria Faccio Venice, and for that I have editor loves Italy as much as I do. in Turin, and Alberto and Fulvio extraordinaire Anna Tyler to Peluffo in Noli. Hugs to Cassandra   STEPHANIE ONG thank. Many thanks to Lonely and our daughters Magdalena A big heartfelt thanks to Anna Planet Local Jo-Ann Titmarsh for and Genevieve, who joined for the Tyler for trusting me with this your good company and excellent great Ligurian adventure. advice on this assignment, and update, Duncan Garwood for for the wealth of new listings his sage writerly advice and the NICOLA WILLIAMS that you had already uncovered. LP team for their great work. I’d Heartfelt thanks to those who My eternal gratitude goes to my also like to thank all the Milan shared their love and insider dear friend Bain Duigan, who locals, especially DJ Uabos for his knowledge with me: family accompanied me in spirit at least. nightlife tips and Jackie DeGiorgio tour guide and art historian for her foodie insight. Last but not extraordinaire Molly Mcllwrath; PAULA HARDY least, I’d like to thank my partner Ambra Nepi and Avila Fernandez Mille grazie to all the creative in crime and life, Alessandro (Duomo); Doreen and Carmello and passionate people who Sorci, for always being close to (Hotel Scoti); Betti Soldi; Coral shared their insights. In Venice: me and keeping me sane with Sisk (@curiousappetite); Nardia Luisella Romeo, Gioele and regular post-work gelato. Plumridge (@lostinflorence); Heiby Romanelli, Emanuele dal Katja Meier, Ilaria and Stella KEVIN RAUB Carlo, Valeria Duflot, Sebastian (Mus.e); Mary Gray; Anne Davis; Thanks to Anna Tyler and all my Fagarazzi, Fabio Carrera, Jo-Ann Georgette Jupe (@girlinflorence); fellow partners in crime at LP. On Titmarsh, Alice Braveri and Anat at and Paolo Bresci (Pistoia tourist the road, Alice Brignani, who puts the Comunità Ebraica di Venezia. office). Finally, kudos to my very out cultural fires, uncovers hidden In Friuli: Tatjana Familio, Laura own expert, trilingual, family- gems, even leaps buildings in a Fiorino, Maja de’Simoni, Roberto travel research team: Niko, single bound (all well beyond her Mezzina, Cristiana Fiandra, Mischa and Kaya. Bologna borders!) and still wants Susanna Guerrato, Chiara Pigni, to share an Italian IPA with me Fabio Tarlao, Francesca Boscarol, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS after it’s all said and done. Claudia Alessia Drigo, Elisa Nervi, Anna Climate map data adapted Valentini, Francesca Soffici, Cleva, Monica Bertarelli, Raffaella from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & Franca Rastelli, Sara Laghi, Grasselli, Sonia Macor, and Fabio McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Fabrizio Raggi, Errica Dall’Ara, Stulin for his incredible patience World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Maria Grazia Martini and Giovanni on the road. And thank you Rob for Climate Classification’,Hydrology Pellegrini, too! sharing my love of the bel paese. and Earth System Sciences, 11, BRENDAN SAINSBURY 1633–44. VIRGINIA MAXWELL Many thanks to all the skilled Front cover photographs As always, many locals assisted bus drivers, helpful tourist (clockwise from top): me in my research for this information staff, generous Montepulciano, Tuscany, Fran- project. Many thanks to Ilaria hotel owners, expert cappuccino cesco Iacobelli/AWL Images©; Crescioli, Elisa Grisolaghi, makers, dogs that didn’t growl Leaning Tower, , Marco Serena Nocciolini, Sean Lawson, at me, and numerous passers-by Simoni/AWL Images ©; Fiat rally, Valentina de Pamphilis, Rodolfo who helped me, unwittingly or Camogli, Liguria, PavloBaliukh/ Ademollo, Sonia Corsi, Elena otherwise, during my research Getty Images © Giovenco, Eleonora Sandrelli, trip. Special thanks to my wife, Back cover photograph: Emerald Valentina Pierguidi, Maria Liz, and my son, Kieran, for Coast near Santa Teresa di Guarriello and the staff at Strada keeping the home fires burning Gallura, Sardinia, Daniele Macis/ Vino Nobile Montepulciano e while I was away. AWL Images ©

435 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

arts 20, 59, 256 Basilica di Santa Chiara 235 A Ascoli Piceno 248, 249 Basilica di Santa Croce Abbazia di Sant’Antimo 266 Asolo 172, 173, 184-6 342, 347 Abruzzo 217-23 Assisi 234-5, 239 Basilica di Santa Giusta 408 Accademia Carrara 128 Asti 80 Basilica di Santa Maria della accessible travel 424 ATMs 428-9 Salute 167 Acciaroli 324-5 Atrani 317 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore 128 accommodation 23, 425-6 Basilica di Santa Maria Agerola 306 B Sopra Minerva 284 Agrigento 375-7, 380-1 Badia 158 Basilica di Agropoli 323, 327 Badia a Passignano 263, 267 Sant’Anastasia 177 Aiguille du Midi 152 Bagni San Filippo 272 Basilica di Sant’Antonio 39 air travel 423 Bagno Vignoni 272 Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo 244 Alassio 94-5, 97 Baia del Silenzio 103 Basilica di Superga 72 Alba 79-80 Baia della Favola 103 Bassano del Grappa 169-71 Alberobello 340, 343 Barbaresco 80 bathrooms 430 Alghero 404, 405 Bardolino 136, 180, 181 Bellagio 126, 129 Alpe di Siusi 162, 163 Bari 331, 335, 338 Bellini, Vincenzo 388 Alta Badia 158-9, 163 Barletta 333 Belluno 188, 191 Alto Adige 157 Barolo 78-9 Bergamo 111-12, 116, 128, 129 Alto Lario 140-1 Basilica della bicycle travel see cycling Altomonte 362-3 Santa Casa 246 Bitonto 332 Amalfi 306-7, 309, Basilica di San boat travel 423-4 315-17, 319 Francesco 234-5 Bologna 42, 47, 280-1, 283 Amalfi Coast 12, 311-19 Basilica di San Giulio 122 Bolsena 228 Aosta 150, 153 Basilica di San Lorenzo 286 Bolzano 156-7, 163 Aquileia 195 Basilica di San Marco Bomerano 306 archaeological sites 20, see 41, 58, 115 border crossings 418, 423 also individual sites Basilica di San Nicola Borghese Palace 44 architecture 20, 59, 256 331, 338 Borgo Teresiano 195 Arezzo 255-6, 257 Basilica di San Petronio Bormio 142 Aritzo 410 42, 281 Boscoreale 299 art galleries 15, see also Basilica di Santa Caterina individual galleries d’Alessandria 347 Bova 366

436 Bra 78 Cappella Palatina 373 Cattedrale di San Giovanni Brenta Riviera 168, 173 Capri 306 Evangelista 254 Brescia 112, 116 car hire 22 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo Bressanone 159-61 car insurance 417 235, 242 Brixia Parco Carloforte 395-6 Cattedrale di San Pietro 227-8 Archeologico 112 Casa Natale di Raffaello 253 Cattedrale di Brunico 159 Casarano 350 Santa Chiara 396 budget 23 Castel del Monte 333-4 Cattedrale di Sant’Agata 384 accommodation 425

Castel Gandolfo 211-12, 215 INDEX Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea food 427 Castel Trauttmansdorff 143 315-17 business hours 429 Castelcivita 323 B-C cell phones 23, 430 Castelfranco Veneto 172 Certosa di San Lorenzo 355 Castellabate 324 C Cerveteri 230 Castellammare Ca’ d’Oro 167 Cesana Torinese 89 di Stabia 300 Ca’ Rezzonico 167 Cetara 307, 309, 318 Castello dei Conti Guidi 237 Cagliari 392-3, 397 Chia 394 Castello del Calabria 361-9 Chiesa Anime Sante del Buonconsiglio 144 Caldaro 143 Purgatorio 374 Castello di Ama 265-6 Camigliatello Silano Chiesa Capitolare di San Castello di Fénis 149 364, 368 Cataldo 415 Castello di Issogne 148-9 Camogli 100-1, 106 Chiesa del Gesù 284 Castello di Miramare 195 Campi Flegrei 296 Chiesa di San Francesco 248 Castello di Moncalieri 70 Campo de’ Fiori 285 Chiesa di San Giorgio 387 Castello di Racconigi 70 Campo Imperatore 222 Chiesa di San Marco 144 Castello di Rivoli 71 Campo San Giacomo da Chiesa di San Michele l’Orio 201 Castello di Soave 114 Arcangelo 263 Canazei 158 Castello di Venere 374 Chiesa di San Pietro 105 Cannaregio 115 Castello di Verrazzano 261-2 Chiesa di Santa Lucia 184 Canne della Battaglia 333 Castello di Vezio 128 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Cannigione 400-2 Castello Doria 105 Consolazione 363 Cannobio 122-3 Castello Estense 281-2 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Canosa di Puglia 334 Castello Falletti 78 Croce 350 Capitoline Museums 43 Castello Firmiano 143-4 Chiesa di 255 Capo d’Orso 402 Castello Scaligero 136 Chiesa di Santa Teresa 388 Capo d’Otranto 348 Castello Sforzesco 110 Chiesa di Sant’Efisio 393 Capo Palinuro 326 Castello Svevo 338 Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio 141 Capo Sandalo 396 Castelmezzano 356-7, 359 Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Capo Vaticano 365-6 Castelsardo 404 Caterina d’Alessandria 415 Cappella Bacci 255 Castelvecchio 114 Chiesa e Museo di Cappella Brancacci 256 Castiglia di Saluzzo 87 Orsanmichele 260 Cappella Colleoni 128 Castro 349-50 Chiesa San Giorgio 105 Cappella degli Scrovegni Catania 379, 381, 384-5, 389 Chieti 219 39, 58, 114-15, 169 Cattedrale di Palermo 414 Chiuri 142

437 Chiusi 226, 231, 274 diving Cilento peninsula 321-7 Cannigione 400-1 E Cinque Terre 99-107 Castro 349 electricity 426-7 Cinque Terre National Park Palau 402 Emerald Coast 399-405 104, 107 Praiano 315 emergencies 22, 430 Cinque Torri 190, 191 Dolomites 13, 155-63, 183-91 Emilia-Romagna 18, 277-83 Cisternino 341-2, 343 Dongo 140 Eremo Francescano Cividale del Friuli 196 Dorgali 412 Le Celle 236 climate 22 Erice 373-4

INDEX driving 417-22, 423 Colfosco 158 best roads 13 Etruria 225

C-F Collegiata di Santa Maria car hire 22, 417-18 Etruscans 230 del Colle 220 documents 417, 418 events, see festivals & events Colosseum 43, 50 driving licence 417 Comacchio 282 emergency numbers 22 F Como 123-6, 129 fuel 22, 421 Feltre 187-8 Conca dei Marini 306 insurance 417 Fénis 149-50 Convento del Deserto 314 language 433 Ferrara 281-2 Conversano 330-1 maps 418 festivals & events Cortina d’Ampezzo 158, parking 421 Aria di Festa 198 190, 191 road distances 421 Cioccolatò 77 Cortona 236, 239 road rules 418, 419-20 Douja d’Or 80 Corvara 158 safety 418-19, 422 Festa di Sant’Efisio 393 Cosenza 364, 368 websites 419 Festival dei Due Mondi 244 Costacciaro 245 Duomo (Bressanone) 159-61 Festival costs 23 Duomo (Castelfranco Settenovecento 144 accommodation 425 Veneto) 172 Giostra del Saracino 255 food 427 Duomo (Cremona) 112 Macerata Opera Courmayeur 152, 153 Duomo (Ferrara) 282 Festival 247 credit cards 428-9 Duomo () 42, 53, Palio 274 Cremona 46, 112-13, 116 286-7 Sagra del Pesce 101 Cuneo 77-8, 88, 89 Duomo (Milan) 111 Filiberto, Emanuele 70 Cupone 364 Duomo (Modena) 56, 280 Finale Ligure 94, 97 currency 22 Duomo (Orvieto) 274 Florence 17, 26, 42-3, 53, 256 cycling 21 Duomo (Parma) 279 accommodation 47, 61, 257 central Italy 248, 282 Duomo (Pisa) 55 food 47, 60, 257, 267 northern Italy 79, 96, 103, Duomo (Salerno) 307 walking tour 286-7 190 Duomo (Siena) 52-3, 270 food 20, 23, 80, 427 Duomo (Spoleto) 244 Piedmont 75-81 D Duomo (Syracuse) 386 Sardinia 404 dangers, see safety Duomo (Trento) 144 Southern Italy 303-9 Desenzano del Garda 133-4 Duomo di San Giorgio Fortezza di Monte Altura 402 (Modica) 378 disabilities, travellers Francesca, Piero della 251 Duomo di San Giorgio with 424 Francis of Assisi 238 (Ragusa) 377, 388

438 Frascati 212, 215 Grotte di Castellana 338-40 432-3 fuel 22, 421 Grotte di Frasassi 245-6 Italian Riviera 91-7 Fumane 178, 181 Grumentum 355 Gruppo di Odle 162 L G Guardiagrele 219 La Martorana 415 Galatina 347, 351 Gubbio 236, 244-5, 249 La Salle 151-2 Galleria d’Arte Moderna Gypsotheca 186 La Val 158 Achille Forti 58 La Villa 158

Galleria degli Uffizi 42-3, H Laconi 408-10 INDEX 53, 287 health 427-8 Lago di Bolsena 228

Galleria dell’Accademia Herculaneum 295-6, 301 Lago di Braies 159 F-M (Florence) 42, 286 hiking Lago di Carezza 158 Gallerie dell’Accademia Alpe di Siusi 162 Lago di Como 15, 123-6 (Venice) 39, 115 Cinque Terre 104 Lago di Garda 131-7 Galleria Nazionale delle Dolomites 159 Lago di Ledro 134 Marche 253 Gola Su Gorropu 412 Lago di Mezzola 141 Galleria Nazionale 279 Marguareis Circuit 88 Lago Maggiore 120 Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria 235, 242 Parco Nazionale dei Monti language 432-3 Sibillini 245 Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Largo di Torre Argentina 284 Bellomo 386 Ravello 318 Lazise 180 galleries 15, see also Sentiero degli Dei 314 Leaning Tower of Pisa 55 individual galleries hilltop towns 19 Lecce 342, 343, 346-7, 351 Gallipoli 350, 351 holidays 429 L’Entroterra 96 Galtelli 411 lesbian travellers 248 Gambarie 366-7, 369 I Lerici 105 Garda 136 Iglesias 396, 397 Levi, Carlo 358 Gardone Riviera 134, 137 Il Collio 195-6, 199 LGBT+ travellers 428 gas 22, 421 Il Vittoriale degli Italiani 134 Limone Piemonte 88, 89 gay travellers 428 Imperia 95 Locorotondo 340, 343 Genoa 38, 46, 92-3, 97 insurance 417 Loggia dei Mercanti 247 Gerace 366, 369 internet access 23, 248 Loppia 126 Ghetto Nuovo 115 Isola Bella 120 Loreto 246, 249 Giardini di Villa Barberini Isola Caprera 402 Lucanian Apennines 353-9 211-12 Isola della Maddalena 402-3 Lucera 332 Giardino Botanico Isola dell’Asinara 404 Fondazione André Isola di San Pietro M Heller 134 395-6, 397 Gola Su Gorropu 412 Macerata 246-7 Isola di Sant’Antioco 394-5 Gole del Raganello 362 Mafalda of Savoy 72 Isola Madre 120 Gravedona 140 Malles 142 Isole Tremiti 334 Greve in Chianti 262-3 Mantua 113, 116-17 Ispica 387 Grotta dello Smeraldo 306 maps 418 Issogne 148-9 Grotta Monte Cucco 245 Maranello 280 Italian Lakes 119-29 Grotte di Castelcivita 323 Maratea 354-5, 359

439 Marguareis Circuit 88 Museion 156 Museo Nazionale Marienberg 142 Museo Archeologico Baglio Etrusco 228 Marina del Cantone 314 Anselmi 374 Museo Territoriale del Lago Marina di Furore 315 Museo Archeologico dell’Alto di Bolsena 228 Maritime Alps 83-89 Adige 156 Museum de Gherdëina 162 Marsala 374, 380 Museo Archeologico Etrusco museums 15, see also di Chiusi 226, 274 individual museums Martina Franca 340-1 Museo Archeologico music 422 Maser 186 Nazionale (Cagliari) 393

INDEX Matera 358, 359 Museo Archeologico N measures 424 Nazionale (Naples) 45, 295

M-O Merano 142-3, 145 Museo Archeologico Naples 27, 44-5, 294-5 Mercato di Ballarò 414 Nazionale d’Abruzzo Villa food & accommodation Milan 38, 110-11 Frigerj 219 47, 301 food 116 Museo Archeologico Nastro Azzurro drive 315 walking tour 20-3 Nazionale di Palestrina ‘ndrangheta 366 mobile phones 23, 430 213-14 Necropoli di Banditaccia 230 Modena 56-7, 61, 280, 283 Museo Archeologico Necropoli di Sovana 227-30 Nazionale Tarquiniense 230 Modica 378, 381, 387-8 Necropoli di Tarquinia Museo Civico Archeologico Moena 158 229-30 di Pitigliano 228 monasteries 233, see also Negrar 177-8, 181 Museo d’Arte individual monasteries Nobile Collegio del Cambio Contemporanea 71, 86 Monastero di San 235, 242 Museo della Madonna del Benedetto 214 Nocelle 315 Parto 254 Monastero di Santa Noto 378, 386-7, 389 Museo dell’Osservatorio Scolastica 214 Nuoro 410-11 Vesuviano 296-7 Monastero & Sacro Eremo di Museo del Vino Camaldoli 238 a Barolo 78-9 O Moncalieri 70 Museo di Arte Moderna e Olbia 400, 405 money 23, 428-9 Contemporanea 144 opening hours 429 Mont Blanc 152 Museo Diocesano di Arte Oplontis 298 Montalcino 266, 267 Sacra 236 Oratorio della Purità 196-7 Monte Sant’Angelo 334, 335 Museo di San Marco Oratorio di San Giorgio 168-9 Montepulciano 266, 267, 238, 256 Orgosolo 410 273-4, 275 Museo Etnografico Sardo 411 Oristano 408 Monterchi 254-5 Museo Faggiano 347 Orosei 411-12 Monticchiello 272-3 Museo MAN 410-11 Orrido di Sant’Anna 122-3 Morano Calabro 362, 368 Museo Nazionale Cerite 230 Orta San Giulio 122 Morgex 151-2 Museo Nazionale Ortisei 161-2, 163 Mormanno 362, 368 del Cinema 84 Orvieto 274, 275 mountains 21 Museo Nazionale del Ostia Antica 210-11, 215 Mt Vesuvius 297-8 Risorgimento Italiano 69-70, 76-7 Ostuni 342, 343 Musei Civici di Palazzo Buonaccorsi 247 Museo Nazionale di Reggio Otranto 347-8, 351 Calabria 367

440 Pantheon 44, 52, 284-5 parking 421 P Panzano in Chianti 263-5 Florence 26 Padua 38-9, 58, 114-15, 117, Parco Archeologico della Naples 27 168-9, 173 Neapolis 379, 385 Rome 25 Padula 355 Parco Archeologico di Elea Venice 28 Paestum 308, 309, 322-3 Velia 326 Parma 278-80, 283 palaces 21, 67-73, see also Parco del Conero 246, 249 Passo dello Stelvio 144 individual palaces Parco Naturale Alpi Passo di Bocca Trabaria 253 Palatine Hill 43, 50-2 Marittime 88

Peggy Guggenheim INDEX Palau 402, 405 Parco Naturale Collection 167 Fanes-Sennes-Braies 159

Palazzina di Caccia di Perugia 235, 239, 242-4, 249 P Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Stupinigi 70-1 Pescallo 126 Lazio e Molise 220-1 Palazzo Bo 38-9, 169 Pescara 218-19, 223 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Palazzo Bonelli Patanè 388 Pescasseroli 220-1, 223 Sibillini 245, 248 Palazzo Borromeo 120 Pescocostanzo 220 Parco Nazionale del Cilento Palazzo Borsa 93 e Vallo di Diano 323 petrol 22, 421 Palazzo Carignano 69-70 Parco Nazionale del Gran Piazza Castello 68 Palazzo dei Normanni 414 Paradiso 150-1, 153 Piazza Navona 285 Palazzo dei Papi 229 Parco Nazionale del Piedmont 75-81 Palazzo dei Priori 228 Gran Sasso e Monti 272, 275 Palazzo Ducale (Genoa) 93 della Laga 222 Pietrapertosa 357 Palazzo Ducale (Mantua) 113 Parco Nazionale del Pieve di San Giorgio 180 Palazzo Ducale (Martina Pollino 362 Pimonte 305 Franca) 341 Parco Nazionale della Pinacoteca Nazionale 42 Sila 364 Palazzo Ducale (Venice) Pioppi 325 Parco Nazionale 58-9, 115 Pisa 55-6, 61 dell’Arcipelago di La Palazzo Estense 123 Pisciotta 326, 327 Maddalena 402-3 Palazzo Farnese 285 Pitigliano 228, 231 Parco Nazionale Palazzo Grassi 167 dell’Aspromonte 366-7 Pizzo 364-5, 368-9 Palazzo Grimani 167 Parco Nazionale delle Cinque plugs 426-7 Palazzo Mocenigo 200 Terre 104, 107 Po valley 109-17 Palazzo Morando Attendolo Parco Nazionale delle Pompeii 17, 299-300, 301 Bolognini 203 Dolomiti Bellunesi 188 Ponte delle Tette 201 Palazzo Piccolomini 272 Parco Nazionale delle Ponte di Rialto 201 Palazzo Poggi 42 Foreste Casentinesi Monte Ponte Vecchio 287 Palazzo Reale (Genoa) 38 Falterona e Campigna 237 Poppi 237, 239 Palazzo Reale (Turin) 37, 68 Parco Nazionale dello Portesone 105 Stelvio 142 Palazzo Spinola 38 Portici 295 Parco Regionale del Monte Palazzo Vecchio 287 Porto Maurizio 95 Cucco 245 Palazzolo Acreide 386 Portofino 101-2, 106 Parco Regionale Porto Palermo 373, 380, 414-15 Portovenere 105, 107 Selvaggio 350 Palestrina 212-13 Positano 314, 319 Parco Thermale del Palinuro 326, 327 Garda 180 Possagno 186

441 Postiglione 323 Salò 134, 137 seaplanes 126 Praiano 314-15 Saluzzo 87-8, 89 Segesta 373 Pré-Saint Didier 152 San Cassiano 158 Selinunte 374-5 public holidays 429 San Daniele del Friuli Selva 162 Puglia 329-35 198, 199 Sestri Levante 103-4 Pula 393-4 52 Sestriere 86-7, 89 San Giovanni a Piro 326 Shroud of Turin 77 R San Pietro in Cariano Sicignano degli Alburni 323 178-9, 181 INDEX Racconigi 70 Sicily 371-81, 383-9 San Quirico d’Orcia 272 radio 422 Siena 52-3, 270-1, 274

San Remo 96, 97 P-S Ragusa 377, 388, 389 accommodation 275 Sanctuary of Vittore and food 60, 275 Rapallo 102-3, 106-7 Corona 188 Sirmione 132-3, 137 Ravello 317-18, 319 Sansepolcro 254, 257 Sirolo 246 Ravenna 282, 283 Santa Cesarea Terme 348-9 skiing 162 Reggia di Portici 295 Santa Cristina 162 Alpe de Siusi 162 Reggia di Venaria Reale 71-2 Santa Maria Assunta in Alta Badia 158 Reggio Calabria 367, 369 Sambucina 363-4 Aosta 150 Reggio Emilia 280, 283 Santa Maria di Castellabate Bormio 142 Renaissance 256 323-4, 327 Camigliatello Silano 364 Rialto Market 200 Santa Maria di Leuca 350 Cinque Torri 190 Riva del Garda 135-6, 137 Santa Teresa di Gallura Rivello 355 403-4 Cortina d’Ampezzo 158, 190 Rivoli 71, 73, 86 Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi Courmayeur 152 road distances 421 313-14 Limone Piemonte 88 road rules 418, 419-20 Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella 179-80 Mont Blanc 152 Rocca Albornoziana 244 Sant’Antioco 394-5, 397 Sassotetto-Santa Maria Roghudi Vecchio 366 Santo Stefano di Sessanio Maddalena 248 Rolli Palaces 38 222, 223 Sestriere 86-7 Roman Forum 51 Santuario Basilico di Slow Food 77, 78 Rome 10, 24-5, 43-4, 50 Montallegro 102 smoking 424 accommodation 47, 60 Santuario della Verna 236-7 snails 80 food 47, 60 Santuario di Soave 114, 117 walking tour 284-5 San Michele 334 Solda 142 Rovereto 144, 145 Sappada 198, 199 Sondrio 141-2 Ruvo di Puglia 332 Sapri 326 Sorico 140 Sardinia 19, 391-7, 399-405, Sorrento 300, 304-5, 313 S 407-13 accommodation 301, Sacra di San Michele 85-6 Sarnano 247 309, 319 Sacrario Militare del Monte Savona 93-4 food 309, 319 Grappa 171 Savoy palaces 67-73 Sovana 226-8, 231 safety 418-19, 422, 430 Scanno 222, 223 Spilimbergo 198 Salento 345-51 Sciacca 375 Spoleto 244 Salerno 307-8, 309 Scicli 388 St Peter’s Basilica 43-4

442 Stabiae 300 Villa Carlotta 126 Stintino 404 U Villa Cerruti 71 Stresa 120, 122, 129 Udine 196-7, 199 Villa della Torre 178 Subiaco 214 Unesco World Heritage sites Villa d’Este 214 Sulmona 219, 220, 223 49-61 Villa di Masèr 172, 186 Susa 86, 89 Urbino 252-3, 257 Villa Foscarini Rossi 168 Syracuse 18, 378-9, 381, Villa Melzi d’Eril 126 385-6, 389 V Villa Mosconi Bertani 178

Val di Fassa 158 Villa Olmo 125 INDEX T Val di Susa 86 Villa Panza 123

Taormina 379, 381 Valdobbiadene 186-7, 191 Villa Pisani Nazionale 168 S-W Tarquinia 229-30, 231 Valle d’Aosta 17, 147-53 Villa Romana del Casale 375 taxes 425 Valle dell’Anapo 386 Villa Rufolo 318 telephone services 23, 430 Valle d’Itria 331, 337-43 Villa Valmarana ‘ai Nani’ 169 Tempietto Longobardo 196 Valnontey 151 villas 21, see also individual Tempio di Antas 396 Valpelline 150 villas Terme Merano 143 Valpolicella 175-81 visas 22, 431 time 424 Valtellina 141-2, 145 Viterbo 43, 228-9, 231 tipping 23, 428 Varenna 126-8 Tirano 142 Varese 123 W Tiscali 412 Vatican Museums 44 walking, see hiking Tivoli 214, 215 Velia 326 walking tours toilets 430 Venaria Reale 71-2, 73 Florence 286-7 Torri del Benaco 136 Venetian Dolomites 183-91 Milan 202-3 train travel 128, 142, 424 Veneto 165-73 Palermo 414-5 Trani 332-3, 335 Venice 12, 28-9, 39-42, 58-9, Rome 284-5 115, 167-8 transport 23, 423-4 Venice 200-1 accommodation 46, Trapani 374, 380 weather 22 61, 173 Tratalias 394 websites 23 food 46, 61, 117, 173 trekking, see hiking accessible travel 424 walking tour 200-1 Tremezzo 126 driving 419 Ventimiglia 96, 97 Trento 144, 145 Florence 26 Verbania 122, 129 Treviso 172, 173, 184 LGBT+ travellers 428 Verona 57-8, 61, 114, 117, Tricàrico 357-8 176-7, 181 Naples 27 Trieste 194-8, 199 Vesuvius 297-8 Rome 25 Tropea 365, 369 Via Emilia 282 tourist information 431 trulli 342 Vicenza 169, 173 Venice 29 Turin 36-8, 68-70, 76-7, 84-5 Vico Equense 305, 313 weights 424 accommodation 73, 89 Vieste 334, 335 wi-fi 23, 428 food 46, 73, 89 Vietri sul Mare 318 wine 20, 429 Tuscany 12, 225-31, 233-9, Viggiano 356 wine tours 175-81, 259-67 259-76, 269-75 Villa Adriana 213-14 World Heritage sites 49-61 TV 424 Villa Aldobrandini 212

443 NOTES

444 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BRENDAN SAINSBURY REGIS ST LOUIS

Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits Regis grew up in a small town in the American a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning of travel – and he developed an early fascination in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since his formative years learning Russian and a handful squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious of Romance languages, which served him well existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has the last 12 years, he has written over 40 books for contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of covering destinations across six continents. His Peru. travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www. instagram.com/regisstlouis.

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ brendansainsbury regisstlouis

NICOLA WILLIAMS

Border-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet. com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong.

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ NicolaWilliams PAULA HARDY VIRGINIA MAXWELL

Paula is an independent travel writer and editorial Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least consultant, whose work for Lonely Planet and other half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination flagship publications has taken her from nomadic coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean camps in the Danakil Depression to Seychellois is her major area of interest – she has covered beach huts and the jewel-like bar at the Gritti Palace Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, on the Grand Canal. Over two decades, she has Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks and also covers Finland, Bali, Armenia, the Netherlands, spent five years as commissioning editor of Lonely the US and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Planet’s bestselling Italian list. These days you’ll Instagram and Twitter. find her hunting down new hotels, hip bars and up- and-coming artisans primarily in Milan, Venice and Marrakesh. Get in touch at www.paulahardy.com.

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ PaulaHardy maxwellvirginia

STEPHANIE ONG KEVIN RAUB

Stephanie is a writer/editor who’s lived in Melbourne, Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music Barcelona, London and now finds herself based in journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal Milan, Italy. She’s written travel pieces for various and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ publications, including coffee-table books and roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written over guidebooks for Lonely Planet and Le Cool Publishing. 95 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, When she’s not immersed in the world of writing and Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and travel, she’s eating well and complaining about tax – Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel like every good Italian. magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Kraub Stephanieong

MORE WRITERS ALEXIS AVERBUCK CRISTIAN BONETTO

Alexis has travelled and lived all over the world, from Cristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet Sri Lanka to Ecuador, Zanzibar and Antarctica. In guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice recent years she’s lived on the Greek island of Hydra, & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, in the wilds of NYC and on the California coast. A Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet travel writer for over two decades, Alexis has lived in work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat design appear in numerous publications around the and written books on her journeys through Asia, world, including the Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Europe and the Americas. She’s also a painter – visit Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find www.alexisaverbuck.com – and promotes travel and the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping adventure on video and television. espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Instagram: rexcat75.

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ alexisaverbuck CristianBonetto

GREGOR CLARK PETER DRAGICEVICH

Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign After a successful career in niche newspaper languages and curiosity about what’s around the and magazine publishing, both in his native New next bend have taken him to dozens of countries Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade provinces on countless road trips through his native he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely North America.Since 2000, Gregor has regularly Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Europe and the Americas. He has lived in California, Auckland, , his home – although France, Spain and Italy prior to settling with his his current nomadic existence means he’s often wife and two daughters in his current home state of elsewhere. Vermont.

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ gregorclark peterdragicevich OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

DUNCAN GARWOOD BRETT ATKINSON

From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full- up many unique experiences. These days he largely time travel and food writer specialising in adventure dedicates himself to the Mediterranean and Italy, travel, unusual destinations, and surprising angles on his adopted homeland where he’s been living since more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street 1997. He’s worked on around 50 Lonely Planet titles, food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places, including guidebooks to Italy, Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, and he is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet Spain and Portugal, and has contributed to books on website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites world food and epic drives. He’s also written on Italy across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming for newspapers, websites and magazines. a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.

https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ duncangarwood BrettAtkinson

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