TRAVEL WITH CHRIS BROWN

VANUATU: TANNA

When most people think of island getaways, they think of resorts and umbrella drinks... but this week, Chris is headed to an island getaway with a difference. On ’s , Chris gets to visit an active volcano but first he needs to get some courage and words of advice from the Chief of a black magic village. Will this be enough to get him to the top of Mt Yasur? And will he make it back to tell his

tale?

VANUATU FAST FACTS:

• Officially named the Republic of Vanuatu. • An island nation located in the South Pacific Ocean. The archipelago, which is of volcanic origin, is some 1,750 kilometres (1,090 mi) east of northern Australia. • Capital City is Port Vila (on the island of ) • Local currency: Vatu (VT) • There are over 120 distinct languages and many more dialects in Vanuatu but 3 official languages: English, French and (pidgin English). • Vanuatu was first inhabited by Melanesian people.

TANNA ISLAND

ABOUT: • The island is 40 km (25 mi) long and 19 km (12 mi) wide, with a total area of 565 km². • Tanna means ‘earth’ in Tannese. • Tanna is best known as the home to one of Vanuatu’s most popular tourist attractions, the volcano. Considered one of the world’s safest and most accessible volcanoes, Mt Yasur is just a two hour drive from Tanna’s White Grass Airport followed by a short 15/20 minute walk to the crater rim. • Today Tanna is one of the Islands where culture and custom are still very strong. Many villages have turned their backs on the modern ways and preferred their traditional way of life. The Tanna people recognise the importance of their 'kastom' and require all visitors to travel with local guides.

GEOGRAPHY: The island is a mixture of savannah, forest and rugged mountains – stretching from the grasslands and scrub of the north-west to the mountains and dense forest of the south-west. The fertile centre contains thriving market gardens which produce a variety of fruit and vegetables, and the country’s best-known product, Tanna coffee.

KASTOM VILLAGES

Tanna is populated almost entirely by and they follow a more traditional lifestyle than many other islands. Some of the villages are known as kastom villages, where modern inventions are restricted, the inhabitants wear penis sheaths and grass skirts, and the children do not go to public schools.

Tanna’s 30 000 ihabitants have largely retained their original custom and culture, preferring to turn their back on modern ways. Ceremonies, including the annual yam festival, circumcision rites and marriages, are frequent events and feature the unique Tannese face painting that is often seen in photos of Vanuatu.

SORCERY & BLACK MAGIC

• Sorcery is a big part of ni-Vanuatu cultural heritage. While more than 80 percent of the people of Vanuatu follow Christianity, belief in sorcery and animist traditions is deeply rooted. Black magic is passed down through families and can take the form of a poison put into someone's food, or a spell motivated by a grievance against a tribe or a person in the community. • The practice of sorcery is considered a serious crime by the majority of the population of Vanuatu, and continues to be a source of community disorder and fear, however there are no laws in Vanuatu against sorcery as it is virtually impossible to prove. (NOT SURE THIS IS CORRECT)

MT. YASUR VOLCANO

FAST FACTS: • An active volcano with a height of 361 m (1,184 ft) above sea level, located on the coast near Sulphur Bay. • Yasur volcano on Tanna Island is one of the most famous volcanoes in the world, simply because it is so easy to reach. • It has a largely unvegetated pyroclastic cone with a nearly circular summit crater 400 m in diameter. • It has been erupting nearly continuously for over 800 years, although it can usually be approached safely. Its eruptions, which often occur several times an hour, are classified as Strombolian or Vulcanian. • Recently, has become more important, as tourists are attracted to the volcano and traditional culture. To help preserve the integrity of culture as a tourism asset, only local people are permitted to act as guides.

ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE: The other aspect of ash falls is that it builds up into a thick mud, almost as hard as concrete. But when it rains a lot, the ash mud can turn into a landslide and bury whole villages.

Because of the importance of the volcano to the tourism industry in Tanna, the local government has created levels to restrict people's access:

VANUATU VOLCANIC ALERT LEVEL (VVAL): Lvl. ? Insufficient Monitoring to make assessment Lvl. 0 Normal low-level activity. Normal, quiet.

Lvl. 1 Increased activity, danger near Signs of awakening crater only. Lvl. 2 Moderate eruptions, danger close Confirmation of awakening, minor to the volcano vent, within parts of eruptions and danger near to crater. Volcanic Hazards Map Red Zone.

Lvl. 3 Large eruption, danger in specific Moderate to large eruption, danger in areas within parts of Volcanic areas near crater and along main Hazards Map Red and Yellow stream valleys. Zones. Lvl. 4 Very large eruption, island-wide Very large eruption, island-wide danger (including areas within Red, danger and potential impacrs on Yellow and Green Zones). neighbouring islands.

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: The Geohazards office at the Vanuatu Meteorological and Geohazards Department: Ph: 24686 Email: [email protected] / [email protected] Web: www.geohazards.gov.vu

GETTING THERE

You can't get to Tanna directly unless you sail to Vanuatu on a yacht. Tanna is a port of entry into Vanuatu but all international flights go to Port Villa, on the island of Efate or Luganville on the island of . So you need to fly to Port Vila, stay one night, then fly to Tanna the next day - and fly back at least a day before you plan to return home. The airport on Tanna is at White Grass - on the western side of the island. Many of the Tanna resorts and bungalows are clustered near the airport.

Air Vanuatu offers a daily service from Sydney to Port Vila, three days a week from Brisbane and once weekly from Melbourne (until 7 October 2012 and then December 20 2012 – January 17 2013). Return economy fares including taxes start at

$511 from Brisbane, $559 from Sydney and $649 from Melbourne. is a full service airline, meals, drinks and inflight entertainment are complimentary Air Vanuatu operates domestic air services in Vanuatu between the islands. For more information go to: www.airvanuatu.com

Also visit Unity Airlines for information on smaller charter flights to Tanna and flights over the volcano www.unity-airlines.com A day safari costs: 36,900 Vatu cash per person (approx $400 AUD) and an overnight safari costs from Cost: 42,900 Vatu cash per person (approx $460 AUD)

ACCOMMODATION:

White Grass Ocean Resort, Tanna Fourteen individual bures have sea views and lie within the manicured gardens of White Grass Ocean Resort. Each has unique decorative elements which reflect the distinctive South Pacific locale, yet incorporates the comforts of hot water showers in en- suite bathrooms, ceiling fans, bed canopy nets, mini bars, tea and coffee making facilities and private balconies. Rates start at approximately $275

Phone: (678) 30010 [email protected] www.whitegrassvanuatu.com.vu TOURS:

Tours are available to be booked through White Grass Ocean Resort www.whitegrassvanuatu.com.vu

Mount Yasur Volcano and Safari Tour:

The tour gives guests the opportunity to have a true experience of what Tanna beholds as you travel by 4 wheel drive to the far side of Tanna through the mountain region known as ‘Middle Bush’; passing by wild horses, coffee planations and remote villages before crossing Mt. Loanialu where you will stop for a photo opportunity of the distant volcano, black sand surf beaches and Sulphur Bay. Trace your way across the moon like landscape of the ash plains and then a short 10 min walk will take guests to the rim of the crater where they will be able to experience the awesome majesty of the mighty Mount Yasur Volcano. A guide will accompany

them for informative and safety purposes. This tour departs daily at 2:30pm to ensure that guests arrive at the volcano to experience the sun setting and the change in colour, as the molten lava lights up the sky.

Cost: Adults 12,400 vatu (approx $135 AUD)Children 6,200 vatu (approx $66 AUD)

Black Magic Tour:

Experience the rituals of Black Magic practiced by a Warrior Tribe in the highlands of Tanna. The tribe still lives the way they have for hundreds of years. The warriors will explain their practices and trickery which are still used today on rival villages. See the art of ambush in action. The warriors will challenge guests with their traditional weapons (bows & arrows, spears etc). See the plant before it is prepared and then taste the “real thing”. See the coffee plant and see the process of harvesting it. All of your senses will be aroused and your adrenalin will pump on this special, spiritual tour. Guests will be surprised and amazed at the Kastom beliefs and practices.

Cost: Adults 6,500 vatu (approx $70 AUD) Children 3,250 vatu (approx $35 AUD) WEBLINKS

For more information about Vanuatu go to www.vanuatu.travel

For more information about flights to Vanuatu and Tanna go to www.airvanuatu.com