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Paddling Be It in a Canoe Or Kayak, the Waterways in the Bluebonnet Region Are a Perfect Retreat for Beginners Or Seasoned Veterans

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Paddling Be It in a Canoe Or Kayak, the Waterways in the Bluebonnet Region Are a Perfect Retreat for Beginners Or Seasoned Veterans a passion for paddling Be it in a canoe or kayak, the waterways in the Bluebonnet region are a perfect retreat for beginners or seasoned veterans Story by Pam LeBlanc Photos by Sarah Beal MIDWAY THROUGH a 25-mile paddle down the Colorado River, Jimmy Harvey pulls his kayak beneath a canopy of trees Pam LeBlanc and Jimmy Harvey paddle their boats on the Colorado River at Fisherman’s Park in Bastrop, above. Greg Klausmeyer of Houston, left, paddles his along the bank and waves me over. I glide up alongside him, un- kayak in the Rio Vista Park section of the San Marcos River. sure what to expect. “Put your paddle down,” he says. The quiet settles around us like a blanket. “Listen. No human A GOOD GUIDEBOOK One in a series of stories on fitness, recreation and outdoor noises. Just the wind, the river and Anyone interested in exploring the Lone Star State’s many adventure in the Bluebonnet the birds.” rivers by canoe or kayak should start with longtime Texas Electric Cooperative region. He’s right. We can’t hear the buzz of traffic paddler Bob Spain’s book, “Canoeing Guide and Favorite or the drone of an airplane or even the sput- Texas Paddling Trails.” ter of a lawn mower down here between the The 206-page book, printed on waterproof paper, has banks. It’s perfectly blissful. information on canoeing history, boat design, gear, pad- We packed water and snacks, plus a spare WITH paddle, a GPS and a cell phone in case of dling techniques, safety, water trails and conservation. emergency, and shoved off from Fisherman’s His suggestion for those ready to get into the sport? Park in Bastrop at 8:30 this morning, our “Go out in a tandem boat with someone who’s a paddler if you boats pointed toward Smithville. The river can because they can give you subtle tips,” Spain says. If that’s not an twists and turns like a length of rope here, but it all feels miles away from civiliza- option, contact a canoe livery to find someone who can show you a few tion. By the time we ease our boats beneath the highway overpass in Smithville four strokes and offer basic instruction. Continued on page 20 BLUEBONNET ELECTRIC COOPERATIVE BLUEBONNET ELECTRIC COOPERATIVE 18 TEXAS CO-OP POWER August 2020 August 2020 TEXAS CO-OP POWER 19 Continued from page 18 and a half hours later, my back is tired PADDLING OUTFITTERS and my rear end feels half-frozen in Availability may be impacted place, but I’m happy. by coronavirus restrictions. Call Harvey is a longtime paddler who before you make plans. first canoed as a kid on the Devil’s River in West Texas. The Austin resident has BASTROP RIVER COMPANY completed numerous endurance canoe Fisherman’s Park races, including the Texas Water Safari, a 1400 Willow St., Bastrop 260-mile nonstop race from San Marcos 512-321-4661 to Seadrift on the Texas coast. bastropriverco.com I’m relatively new to paddling, but in 2019 I joined two other women, both Canoe, kayak and stand-up veteran paddlers, to race the Texas Water paddleboard rentals by the hour or Safari. We faced logjams, mud, palm- river trip, and shuttle service sized spiders, hallucinations and human- ABOVE: Holly Orr, second from left, owner of Paddle With Style and Texas Canoes & Kayaks, paddles on the San Marcos River near Martindale with her sons Matthew Orr, RISING PHOENIX ADVENTURES sized alligator gar in that adventure. at left, 10, and William Orr, 11. In the red canoe, Tom and Paula Goyens, owners of San 1409 Chestnut St., Bastrop But this day’s Colorado River paddle Marcos River Retreat, make their way downriver. RIGHT: Holly Orr helps her daughter, 512-677-2305 reveals a completely different and much Katelyn Orr, 7, into her life jacket. BELOW: Pam LeBlanc and Jimmy Harvey paddle their way down the Colorado River. more relaxed side of the sport. risingphoenixadventures.com Before dragging our boats ashore, tion his boat to get the best ride. easier to steer. But canoeing offers its Canoe, kayak and stand-up we’ve spotted blue herons, soft-shelled Paddling traces its American roots own set of advantages: You won’t get as paddleboard rentals and shuttle turtles, cattle and what almost certainly to the northern states, where Native wet while doing it, and you can load service on the Colorado River from was a bald eagle, flapping away from the Americans and fur traders used canoes a canoe with enough gear for a paddle Austin to La Grange towering skeleton of a dead cottonwood for transportation. It remains popular camping trip. Either way, a day on the tree. While leaving a small gravel bar in the northern U.S. and Canada, for river is a day well spent. COOK’S CANOES where we took a break, I nearly paddled both recreation and competition. But “It’s something you can do your whole 1004 Water St., Webberville over a short, thick snake that looked like Texas enjoys one big advantage — a life, and you don’t have to be a pro or in 512-276-7767 a water moccasin while steering my boat mild climate. great shape,” Spain says. “If you want to cookscanoes.com back into the current. “You can paddle here in the winter. float down river and throw a hook in, Canoe and kayak rentals This is why I love to paddle in the Up north, the streams are frozen,” says you can do that. You get what you put first place — to get an up-close look at Bob Spain, author of “Bob Spain’s into it.” TG CANOES & KAYAKS wildlife on the river while following an Canoeing Guide and Favorite Texas Here in Central Texas, the Colorado 402 Pecan Park Drive, San Marcos unspooling highway of liquid wherever Paddling Trails.” River serves up a smooth ribbon of 512-353-3946 it goes, at a pace that just feels natural. Spain got into canoeing because he water that includes several stretches des- make good paddling grounds, too. lined stretches of cool, green water and a tgcanoe.com I’m grateful for the previous day’s liked the adventure. “I’ve paddled in 40 ignated by the Texas Parks and Wildlife In and near Bluebonnet’s southwest- few rapids capable of bucking inexperi- Big selection of boats, equipment rain, which delivered a nice flow to help or so states, raced in 25, and met peo- Department as paddling trails. If you ern service area, San Marcos and nearby enced paddlers. to buy; will make repairs but no propel us. I’m also thankful for Harvey’s ple all over the country and abroad,” he go, remember it’s OK to stop on gravel Martindale offer opportunities to access For information about current rentals or lessons expert eye, and I try to glean a little of says. “When you canoe, you see things bars or islands in the river, but respect the San Marcos River, which flows into river conditions, go to www.lcra.org or his skill as we go. Where I see a uniform you wouldn’t see otherwise.” private property. Rainfall upstream can the Guadalupe River downstream. The https://on.doi.gov/2VNVxUH. TEXAS CANOES & KAYAKS swath of water, he can read riffles and Just about anyone can do it, too. create high flows downstream, so check river serves up some of the prettiest There are several spots in the Blue- and PADDLE WITH STYLE swirls, and knows exactly where to posi- Most start with a kayak, because it’s flow levels before you go. Area lakes paddling in Central Texas, with cypress- bonnet region where you can put in Reservations at P.O. Box 512, a kayak or canoe for a long, leisurely (or in some spots more challenging) Martindale, 78655 float. You must make pre-planned 512-749-2350 HELPFUL RESOURCES FOR PADDLING PLANNING take-out arrangements for the end of texascanoekayak.com The Texas Parks and Wildlife points and navigation features along your trip. Check with state parks or the paddlewithstyle.com Department has a guide to all of the lower Colorado River. This web paddling site owners for restrictions Lessons for all ages, experience the good boating/paddling routes page also provides other resource in- on access, required face coverings and levels; boat rentals, guided trips around the state, along with a formation and contact information for social distancing requirements due to COVID-19. n SAN MARCOS RIVER RETREAT calendar of paddling events and LCRA parks. tinyurl.com/yc65lqo2 444 Pecan Park Drive, San Marcos information on how to paddle, Texasoutside.com’s list of the Pam LeBlanc has written about fit- 512-392-6171 equipment, education and laws. state’s kayak and canoe paddling ness, adventure and recreation in sanmarcosriverretreat.com tinyurl.com/ydbjja7h trails mentions several in the Central Texas for decades. Her work Shady campground serves mainly LCRA Colorado River Guide for Pad- Bluebonnet region and around the has appeared in Texas Monthly, Texas Highways, Texas Parks & Wildlife and youth groups, emphasis on learning dlers is an interactive guide for access state. tinyurl.com/yctuusxv Real Simple magazines, and the Austin to canoe/kayak American-Statesman. BLUEBONNET ELECTRIC COOPERATIVE BLUEBONNET ELECTRIC COOPERATIVE 20 TEXAS CO-OP POWER August 2020 BLUEBONNET.COOP BLUEBONNET.COOP August 2020 TEXAS CO-OP POWER 21 POPULAR PADDLING ROUTES IN THE BLUEBONNET AREA Little PUT-IN Wilbarger Paddling Trail Webberville UTLEY Park This wide, slow-moving section of the WebbervilleWEBBERVILLE Road Colorado River covers 14.3 miles from PUT-IN Colorado River Big Utley, where you can put in at the FM Colorado River Webberville 969 Bridge, to Bastrop, where Fisher- 969 Park man’s Park makes an easy place to TAKE-OUT take a boat out.
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