175 © Lonely Planet Lonely © Georgetown AREA : 1031 SQ KM 1031 SQ KM : AREA  Temple

POPULATION: 1.52 MILLION 1.52 MILLION POPULATION:  Batu Ferringhi Batu Ferringhi Kek Lok Si Temple Georgetown ( p192 ) ( p184 ) ( p199 ). ( p204 ) ( p184 ) Museum Penang clanhouses like watching life pass by in watching life

past in the Grounding yourself in the state’s Wandering to the top of Relaxing on the beach at Halls and Exploring Chinese Assembly pork on rice while Chowing on charred TELEPHONE CODE: 04 04 TELEPHONE CODE:

    HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS 

South of one Asia, east of another, and Asia condensed. This state is about experiencing state condensed. This of another, and Asia east South of one Asia, Local , by the way, is one of the top draws of the ‘Pearl of the Orient,’ but the living is one of the top draws of the ‘Pearl Local food, by the way, Then along comes ’s smallest state: Penang. In a teak townhouse, an Indian man townhouse, In a teak Penang. smallest state: along comes Malaysia’s Then

 the curry. the continent’s culture and history at its oldest and most evolving. And obviously, trying and history at its oldest and most evolving. the continent’s culture landscape of jungle, lakes, national park and, yes, a cool hill station. beaches, a cosy Little India districts – make a visit to Georgetown eminently rewarding, while beyond lies a eminently rewarding, Little India districts – make a visit to Georgetown era – low slung townhouses, narrow alleyways, tea shops, temples, Chinese mansions and shops, temples, tea era – low slung townhouses, narrow alleyways, it exemplifies Asia-as-entrepôt that is this nation at its best. Physical vestiges of the colonial vestiges that is this nation at its best. Physical Asia-as-entrepôt it exemplifies sia’s 13 states to have a Chinese majority population, but rather than feeling mono-ethnic,than feeling a Chinese majority population, but rather to have sia’s 13 states cultures those dishes stem from are the real reason to visit. Penang is the only one of Malay- to visit. Penang reason the real from are those dishes stem cultures Malay. and chillies – ingredients sourced from Malaysia’s mother cultures of Indian, Chinese and of mother cultures sourced from Malaysia’s and chillies – ingredients ancestors. Later the couple may eat a curry of cinnamon bark, shallots, tamarind, coriander a curry of cinnamon bark, shallots, tamarind, the couple may eat Later ancestors. Chinese bodhisattva Kuan Yin and black-and-white photos of his Chinese wife’s departed photos of his Chinese wife’s and black-and-white Chinese bodhisattva Kuan Yin places joss sticks in front of a family altar studded with pictures of the Hindu god Rama, of a family altar studded with pictures places joss sticks in front the aren’t many places where their societies meet in unfiltered, immediate cultural contact. cultural immediate their societies meet in unfiltered, many places where aren’t countries : China and India. And for all the impact these titans have on the continent, there there on the continent, And for all the impact these titans have : China and India. countries Think of the term ‘’. South and east of what? Essentially, Asia’s most influential what? Essentially, Asia’s South and east of ‘Southeast Asia’. of the term Think Penang PENANG change assistance formilitary against Siam. inex- Company, handingittrading rights first India agreement with theBritishEast of , signedthe butin1771thesultan land cameunder thecontrolof thesultan covered bysouthernGeorgetown. Theis- Ubanand the area atBatu now settlements nists arrived fromSumatra andestablished but itwasn’tuntiltheearly1700s that colo- JamesCaptain swungbyin1593, Lancaster the time. TheEnglishmerchant-adventurer but itappears tohave uninhabited at been Island), asfarbackthe15thcentury, which they called PuloPinang(Betelnut seafarersChinese were aware of theisland, 176 Little isknownof Penang’s earlyhistory. History To Medan PENANG National Penang Betong Forest Reserve Pulau Muka EAG • itr PENANG ••History Head Park Sanggul Gertak Lighthouse

Sungai Pinang PULAU PENANG 6 Tropical Farm Bahang Teluk Fruit Ferringhi Pekan Genting (Strait ofMelaka) Kumbar Butterfly Penang Teluk Batu Kerawang Titi Farm Selat Melaka Palau Langkawi(70km) Marine Park(30km); Si Temple Funicular Kek Lok To PulauPayer (Strait ofMelaka) Botanical Gardens & ArtGallery Selat Melaka Museum Penang War Penang (821m) Museum Hill Museum Rimau Pulau International Airport Penang Temple Snake Toy Georgetown Long-Distance Sungei Nibong BusStation (North Channel) Resort &Spa Jerejak Pulau Tikus Selat Utara Jerejak Pulau Taxi &Bus Butterworth

Station Penang Bridge Penang Kampung (South Channel) Teluk Air Selat Selatan Tawar Gedung Pulau Station

Train Sungai established Georgetown,established alsonamedafter Wellesley, after the governor of India. the island; thisbecameknown asProvince for astripofsultan mainland adjacentto hadnegotiated withthe ries. By1800Light Bishopasitsbounda- Pittand Lebuh Lebuh Chulia, Lebuh George Light, IV,withLebuh the Princeof Wales,wholater becameKing back theundergrowth for settlement. the jungletoencourage hislabourers tohack silver dollars fromhis ship’s into fired Light the prince’sbirthday.It’ssaid Wales Island,astheacquisitiondate fell on renamedto himin1791.Light itPrinceof of Penang, which wasformallysignedover of IndiaCompany,tookpossession theEast Aman Pulau Sungai Acheh Whatever thetruthof hesoon thetale,

Kampung

In 1786 Captain Francis Light, onbehalf Francis Light, In 1786Captain M u Ping Anchorage

Penang BirdPark da

Seberang Jaya Lebuhraya Hospital Kawan SEBERANG Tikam Batas Kepala Batu Batu

PERAI Taiping (50km); (Tollway)

1 Sugai Jawi Sungai Ipoh (98km) Nibung Tebal To Simpang

Empat Perai 8km 4miles 0 0 Berapit Gulugor Tasik Tunggal Setar (47km) E1 Pinang Bakap Sungai To Alor 1 E1 lonelyplanet.com Lunas KEDAH Kulim Kelang Lama E15 PENANG 177 04 / pop 110,000 Residents and tourists have complained complained tourists have Residents and RakyatIn 2008, Pakatan (PR), the op- SEBERANG PERAI BUTTERWORTH % is an industrial town defined to Butterworth base and by its air-force the outside world use it strictly Most travellers terminal. ferry known as Seberang Perai. There’s little to see little There’s known as Seberang Perai. buses in or trains or do other than change a major Butterworth, the mainland town of bus connec- transport hub with many more Malaysia. tions to other cities in Peninsular Trains running between and through Butterworth. Thailand also pass Climate with tem- has a tropical climate, Penang between 21°C and 32°C year- of peratures occur at downpours round. Brief torrential year, though period between the all times of and October sees rain. Humidity more May to 90%. is normally 85% National’s (BN) 11, BN’s worst performance worst National’s (BN) 11, BN’s The locally strong history. in Malaysian since Penang Gerakan governed party, which The plat- power. of 1969, was also swept out PR’s constituent parties (anti- of two form of corruption and a secular, multi-ethnic state) Chinese large with Penang’s well went over the vic- of population, although the margin many analysts. to tory was a shock Orientation or encompasses Pulau Penang, Penang the state’s des- all of Island, where Penang and the concentrated, are note tinations of coast is mainland. This narrow strip of sustainability of local tourism rests on pre- rests local tourism sustainability of Penang. old serving of at least a facsimile developmentabout construction denigrating and preser- historical character, the island’s media a large launched vation advocates 2004 aimed at conservingcampaign in the Their heritage. state’s architectural unique succeeded: in 2008 efforts, have to a degree, was awarded (as well as Melaka) Georgetown Status. Development Unesco World Heritage being not vanished, but they are issues have robust with a commendably addressed public dialogue. position coalition, took control of the the control of position coalition, took 29 seatsstate’s parliament by to Barisan SEBERANG PERAI •• Butterworth But this state also has the potential to be But this state potential also has the In 1867 the simmering violence came to a In 1805 Penang became a presidency gov- became a presidency In 1805 Penang A royal charter awarded city status to awarded city status to A royal charter Penang briefly became the capital of the became the capital briefly of Penang The local economy was slow to develop,The local economy as Light permitted new arrivals to claim to claim new arrivals Light permitted as the ‘Silicon Valley of the East’. But the of as the ‘Silicon Valley national companies specializing in the latter national companies specializing in the latter the Orient’ is also known of sector, the ‘Pearl economic engines are tourism and high-tech and high-tech tourism economic engines are inter- of industries; thanks to the presence a good example of smart growth. Penang’s Penang’s smart growth. a good example of of a rent control law led to affordable hous- a rent of yet to be totally resolved, that have ing issues shift architectural as evidenced by Penang’s decades from townhouses the past few over high-rise condos. to following decades, but lost its duty-free status following decades, but lost its duty-free to Langkawi The 2000 repeal in the 1980s. in the 1960s Penang became a free port. The became a free in the 1960s enjoyed rapid economic growth in the months before Malaysian independence, and Malaysian before months under control, the British authorities fined $10,000, sum of group the then huge each the proceeds going to establish a permanent the colony. police force in had each allied themselves with similar Malay with similar Malay allied themselves had each groups. Once the fighting had been brought all run by Chinese secret societies. secret all run by Chinese out be- rioting broke head when large-scale tween two rival Chinese societies, who secret notorious for its brothels and gambling dens, player in the Chinese opium trade, which player in the Chineseopium trade, which rev- the colony’s of than half more provided place, rough-edged It was a dangerous, enue. more thriving . By the middle of the of By the middle thriving Singapore. more a major had become 19th century, Penang in 1826 (including Melaka Straits Settlements in 1826 (including Melaka superseded until it was by the and Singapore) ernment, on a par with the cities of Madras Madras the cities of ernment, on a par with so gained a much and Bombay in India, and structure. administrative sophisticated more turned to sugar and coconut, agriculture was agriculture turned to sugar and coconut, labour force. by a limited hindered tions – slow-growing crops requiring a high requiring crops tions – slow-growing later initial outlay. Although the planters mostly European planters set planta- up spice planters mostly European century Penang was home to over 10,000 to over was home century Penang people. together with a duty-free port and an atmos- port a duty-free with together quickly attracted liberal tolerance, of phere the turn of By the Asia. settlers over from all lonelyplanet.com Georgetown in January 1957, just seven 1957, just seven in January Georgetown as much land as they could clear, and this, and this, could clear, land as they as much PENANG above acheap you’d behard-pressed tospendover RM5.It sistently goodIndianfood(veg and nonveg); accessed byroadandrailfrom otherpartsofaccessed PeraiThe mainlandstrip of Seberang iseasily Getting There& Away wrapped upinabox to take away. whichhand-made Indiansweets, you canhave ofhas aparticularlygoodselection colourful, fast, lunch&dinner) ( a reliable betis scattered aroundthe towncentre. As ever, demand’ through your TV. getsized beds’,andyoucaneven ‘karaoke on Roomssport‘over-smart international setup. marily atbusinesstravellers, withtheusual Jayain thesuburbof Seberang isaimedpri- tothePenangmodern towerclose BirdPark Tenggiri Jaya;s/dRM242/288; Dua,Seberang Butterworth. Westress, for Butterworth. included intheprice,which isagooddealfor andbreakfastable. Ithasagymandsauna, is comfort, anddiscountsare normallyavail- offers abitmoreAmbassadress, theBerlin from RM100/120; have bathrooms. attached option. Air-con roomscostRM63,andall nameisafair,ifrathertimeworn,budgetsame Luar; rfromRM40; we’re stuckhere for the night…’ sorry, Ican’tread time.’ military ‘Lookslike thetrainwasinafternoon!’ ‘I’m ‘You said Sleeping &Eating ries goingtoor from Georgetown. nexttotheterminal andbusstation forfer-taxi Malaysia andThailandleaves fromButterworth’s Penangtween andotherplacesinPeninsular while the day. wayto avisittotheparkispleasant ever), you’re waitingforthetrain(orbusorwhat- including parrots,hornbillsandhawks.If species of birds,mostlyfromSoutheastAsia, moreThis landscapedparkhouses than300 7km eastof theferry terminal acrosstheriver. 1899; JlnTodak;adult/childRM20/10; is the as atransporthub.Thesolepointof interest 178 % Sunway Hotel Berlin Hotel Hotel Ambassadress There are numerouscheap cafes Chinese be- Most of taxis) thelandtransport(buses, 323 6228;2982JlnBagarLuar; mainsfromRM3; PENANG Penang BirdPark a

( kedai kopi a (

% , which serves cleanandcon- , which serves % ) Afew doors downfromthe Sri Ananda Bahwan Restaurant AnandaBahwan Sri ) 332 1701;4802JlnBaganLuar; s/d 370 7788;www.sh.com.my;11Lebuh This sleepy Chinese hotel Chinese This sleepy

(Taman BurungPinang;(Taman ( % (coffee shop)of (coffee the 332 7788;4425JlnBagan h ai 9am-7.30pm) h % This ) break- 399 ,

ferry in terminal station andbustaxi fact, it can be downright unsightly inplaces unsightly fact, itcanbedownright physically beautifulislandinMalaysia. In Penang, orPulauPinang,isn’tthemost % PENANG for thelatest infoonfares and schedules. in Thailand;check withwww.ktmb.com.my two runintheopposite direction toHat Yai Butterworth. OnedailytrainrunstoKLand The TRAIN (RM220). Taiping BharuKota (RM350),Lumut(RM240)and such rip-offs asIpoh (RM210),KL(RM350), farestaxi (which are negotiable)include terminal onthemainland.Typicalwhole- from adepotbesidetheButterworth ferry overcharged. operate taxis Long-distance Not agoodoptionunlessyoulike being TAXI the Georgetown ( section p196 ). There Getting &Awayin see and airservices, by road-bridge. Forinformationonbus,ferry Penang, which isalsolinked tothemainland hub, andthedeparture pointforferries to the peninsula. Butterworth isthetransport The unique culture of thislittle fistof land, by-product of Penang’s geographic location. isthegenetic Chinese, by thebusiness-savvy empires that conquered them. most influentialcultures andthecolonial Penang straddlesthejuncture of Asia’s two of As EuropeandtheMiddleEast. such, two halves andthewetexit tothemarkets this wasthewatery Asia’s roadbetween their geography isimmediate andobvious: vis-à-visand theircommercialimportance and Melaka. LookattheStraits onamap predatingStraits settlements, bothSingapore superficial: thisistheoldestof theBritish parison withformerislandcoloniesisn’t most fascinatingislandsinAsia. Thatcom- Kong andMacau, isarguably oneof the much of Malaysia. years, it’srelatively youngcompared with 300 having inhabited forroughly ‘only’been down bythickets of concrete condos.And where ploughed thegreen junglehasbeen The island’smixed population,dominated Yet Penang, alongwithSingapore, Hong 04 /pop678,000 train station Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % 323 7962) isnexttothe PENANG 179 If you follow Jln Penang south, you’ll pass If you follow Jln Penang Most places in Georgetown can easily be can in Georgetown Most places Your feet are a good way of getting around, getting a good way of are Your feet Finding your way around Georgetown canFinding your way around Georgetown You’ll find many of Georgetown’s budget Georgetown’s You’ll find many of quality. See p198 for more information. more for p198 quality. See Information BOOKSHOPS along Lebuh small shops lots of are There Chulia. be referred to as Jln Pinang or Penang Rd – or Penang to as Jln Pinang be referred is officially St, which also a Penang but there’s is tech- ‘Jalan’ called Lebuh Pinang! (In Malay, Similarly,nically ‘road’ while ‘lebuh’ is ‘street’) Chulia St is LebuhChulia; Pitt St is sometimes Lebuh on some maps and Pitt, but is shown Many . Kapitan signposts as Jln Masjid to locally by their still referred are streets English names; Lebuh for example, Gereja, is Beach St, and Lebuh Pantai is Church St. ). Don’t below ( sold at bookshops are Maps Georgetown the above; lose your head over small and finding your way around is pretty day or two. a after becomes intuitive to you, or the heat just gets tired but if you get ideal, particularly at night when trishaws are on an almost magical this way takes travelling hotels and, at the waterfront end of the street, the the street, of end and, at the waterfront hotels (E&O) Hotel. Eastern & Orientalvenerable the modern multipurpose Komtar shopping town and con- and eventually leave centre, Airport. International tinue towards Penang Jln end of If you turn west at the waterfront you’ll follow the coastline and eventu- Penang, including ally come to the northern beaches, This road runs right around Batu Ferringhi. the airport. the island back into town, via may also Jln Penang be slightly complicated. Bridge, reputedly the longest in Southeast in Southeast the longest reputedly Bridge, with Malaysia’s the island links which Asia, Hwy). South Lebuhraya (North– The old co- or by trishaw. on foot reached on . centres lonial district ‘city’, the of street is the main Lebuh Pantai and crammed with banks a financial district that once housed buildings stately colonial the caution, dark, exercise administration. After eerily deserted. becomes as this area along Lebuh Chulia in and hostels hotels backpack- cast of the usual Chinatown, where At the and bars. in restaurants congregates ers is Lebuh Chulia, Jln Penang northern end of a popular shopping and a main thoroughfare midrange of a number are In this area street. Penang, to the Penang, is PENANG •• Georgetown

04 / pop 300,000 A vehicle- and passenger-ferry service and passenger-ferry op- A vehicle-

Georgetown is something of a mainstay is something of Georgetown So too are shopping malls, refurbished malls, refurbished shopping So too are Georgetown is on the northeastern corner of corner of is on the northeastern Georgetown land. South of the ferry crossing is the Penang crossing is the Penang the ferry land. South of the food here may be the best in Malaysia – may be the best in Malaysia the food here Asia’s experienced one of having and leave great mini-entrepôts. Orientation tellers, blue joss smoke, chicken rice, Chinese chicken blue joss smoke, tellers, Eat a chilli. up – opera and the sharp roast of and wander through the sensory playground fortune backstreets: Georgetown’s that are finding friends here. All classes of travellers travellers All classes of finding friends here. ghettoes and hostel the hotel should leave on the Southeast Asian backpacker trail, trail, backpacker on the Southeast Asian no problems will have travellers and budget (see p192 ). the most popular stores seemthe most popular stores to either sell are antiques or electronics. The best hotels housesgussied-up, well-amenitied heritage these narrow streets. The hotels and shops and shops these The hotels narrow streets. phenomenon; this exemplify Georgetown of ally is a palpable collision of an older Asia an older Asia collision of ally is a palpable is) in already (and and an Asia-that-will-be for employing the most overused cliché in cliché for employing the most overused re- phrasebook, but there writer’s the travel it’s easy to see the most why this is one of us Forgive in Asia. popular expat enclaves Traffic congestion and air pollution aside, Traffic aside, and air pollution congestion Macau under a blood-red celebratory glow – under a blood-red Macau is here. right on. That stuffwell, you’re strings of paper Heavenly Lanterns casting paper Heavenly strings of Coast to from the Malabar hawkers street tumbledown Chinese shopfronts, British tumbledown Chineseshopfronts, British alleys and trishaw-wide Raj–era architecture, point that the two names become interchange- point that the marked is water Penang of If your image able. For many, if not most visitors, Georgetown, Georgetown, not most visitors, For many, if historic capital, the state’s GEORGETOWN GEORGETOWN % backyards, is one Malaysia’s most tolerant most tolerant is one Malaysia’s backyards, and cosmopolitan. forged over decades of colonialism, commer- colonialism, of decades over forged and preserving tourists hosting cial activity, lonelyplanet.com erates across the 3km-wide channel between across the 3km-wide channel erates on the main- Butterworth and Georgetown the island, where the channel between island the channel the island, where is narrowest. and mainland Chinese mansions and pubs, boutiques, Chinese pubs, boutiques, mansions and that wouldn’t design studios and cafes city centre. place in a Western be out of PENANG 180 0 200 m GEORGETOWN 0 0.1 miles EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown A B C D E F To G Hotel (2.6km); Gurney Dr (3km); Gurney Plaza (3km); Citibank Selat Utara Pulau Tikus (3km); (North Channel) 108 100 Langkawi Coral (4km); 105 82 101 1 Tua Pek Kong (4.5km); Jln Sultan Batu Ferringhi (13km) Ahmad Shah Jln Sultan Ahmad 96 46 To Clove Hall (500m); Nyonya Secrets (500m); Jln Penang World War I Penang Buddhist Association (1km); 57 Memorial (1km); 30 Shah Penang Adventist Hospital (1.5km) Jln Argyll 53 Pedestrian Lebuh 68 74 Path ὈὈ 45 Leith 14 86 94 71 Green Hall Gat Lebuh Jln Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah 73 Lg Hutton Farquhar Jln Larut Jln Jln Tun Syed Jln Bawasah 49 13 Sri Bahari 97 Sheh Barakbah (The Esplanade) Nagore Jln Penang 28 35 79 Lebuh Muntri 77 75 Lebuh Duke 60 Swanton Jln Lama Lg 72 Lebuh Leith 34 Padang 43 Lebuh Farquhar Jln Padang Kota 59 Jln Datok Koya 70 67 66 12 27 17 To Thai Airways International (400m); 51 Lebuh Light 2 Lebuh Dhammikarama Temple (900m); Jln Kedah 2 18 Muntri 9 Gleneagles Medical Centre (1km); Jln Hutton 41 52 32 16 98 Indonesian Consulate (1.5km) Jln Transfer 47 65 8 Chinatown ὈὈColonial 91 55 84 District Lebuh Dickens Lg Stewart Lebuh Bishop 33 37 102 3 93 21 Jln Burma 56 Jln Kampung 54 23 87 83 4 Malabar Lebuh Chulia80 Love La Lebuh King 1 Lebuh Gereja Standard 48 6 50 Chartered Bank Edward Jln Rangoon Abidin Lg Pasar 58 64 Lebuh Downing 40 42 HSBC Lg Selamat Lebuh China (Church St) 76 King Bank Jln Phee Lebuh Campbell Lebuh Queen 69 7 Jln Zainal Choon 89 11 81 Telekom Pesara 99 Penang Lg Madras 29 Malaysia Lebuh Pasar King Edward Lebuh 44 62 Gat Lebuh Gereja 5 19 Lebuh Pitt (Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling) Jln Kuala Kangsar ὈὈ ang 38 24 Lebuh Buckingham 31 Little 3 Pen Lebuh Lebuh Cintra 25 Lebuh To Yi Garden Coffee Shop (300m); 88 India 61 Jetty General Hospital (500m); Gat Lebuh China Swettenham Loh Guan Lye Specialist Centre (500m); Jln Jln Dr Lim Chwee Leong Kimberley(Jln Pintal Tali) Lebuh Pantai (Beach St) Thai Consulate (1km); Penang Library (1.5km); Lebuh 78 Gat Lebuh 104 Jln Maxwell Lebuh Carnarvon Penang Turf Club (1.5km) 15 Pasar Weld Tanjong City 103 Lebuh Armenian90 Ah Quee Marina Walk Jln Sg Hujong 39 92 95 Lebuh Hong 26 22 36 109 85 Lebuh Acheh Lebuh Tek Soon Rope Kong Pengkalan Jln Macalister Lg Carnarvon Lg Macalister

Lebuh Melayu 20 Gat Lebuh Armenian Lg Baru 63 10 Selat Selatan lonelyplanet.com Lebuh Carnarvon Square Jln Datok Lebuh Victoria 106 107 (South Channel) Keramat Jln Magazine Jln Gladstone Railway Booking Office 4 To Masjid Negeri (1km); Gat Lebuh Air Itam (3km); Suffolk House (3km); To Universiti Sains Malaysia (6km); Acheh Botanical Gardens (5km); Penang Bridge (9km); Weld Quay Ferry, Nattukotai Chettiar Temple (5km); Sungei Nibong Long-Distance Bus & Taxi Terminal Penang Hill (5km); Jln Gurdwara Bus Station (10km); Lebuh Pantai Waterfall Hilltop Temple (6km); Penang International Airport (18km); Pengkalan Weld Waterfall Rd (8km) Country Club (18km) PENANG D2 E3 C1 C2 C1 B3 D1 E2 C2 D3 B1 C1 F2 B3 B3 B1 E4 E4 B1 E2 E2 F3 C1 E2 C3 C3 D3 C2 B3 E3 B2 9am- 181 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 79 h 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 264 4754; 18 Lebuh 264 4754; 18 Lebuh % ( 229 3333; Jln Residensi) 229 3333; 229 3555; 2936 Jln Scotland; % ( TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING DRINKING Hertz...... Langkawi Ferry Service...... Local Bus Station...... Long Distance Bus Services...... Malaysia Airlines...... Newsia Tours & Travel...... Pengkalan Weld Bus Stop...... Singapore Airlines...... 100 Cintra Street ...... (see 38) 100 Cintra Street ...... (see 11) Alpha Utara Gallery ...... (see Auntie Sim...... Bee Chin Heong...... Chowraster Bazaar...... Fuan Wong...... Hong Giap Hang...... Komtar...... Lean Giap Trading...... Oriental Arts & Antiques...... Prangin Mall...... Renaissance Pewter...... Royal Pewter...... Sam's Batik House...... AirAsia...... Cathay Pacific...... Ekspres Bahagia...... (see 102) Firefly Airlines...... (see 92) Restoran Nasi Padang Restoran Minang...... 46) Sarkies Corner...... (see Sky Hotel...... Sri Ananda Bahwan...... Thirty Two...... 46) Farquhar's Bar...... (see Pitt Street Corner...... QEII...... 96) Slippery Senoritas...... (see Soho Free House...... 92) Dome...... (see 96) Glo...... (see B@92...... TransitLink City Bus Station..... 261 8731; 431 Lebuh Chulia) 261 8731; 431 Lebuh % ( 263 5723; 370 Lebuh Chulia) 263 5723; 370 Lebuh % C3 D3 D3 C2 E3 C2 E3 E3 C4 E3 C2 C2 C2 A1 E3 C2 C1 A2 A2 C1 C2 D3 C2 D3 E3 D1 D1 B2 C2 C2 D2 C2 D2 C1 C2 C2 B2 E1 C3 A2 ( % 11am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat) 11am-2pm & 5-9pm ( 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 h LIBRARIES LIBRARIES Library Penang Sun) 9am-1pm 5pm Tue-Sat, MEDICAL SERVICES General Hospital and it’s pretty easy to pick up a wi-fi signal easy to pick up a wi-fi and it’s pretty and top-end the town. Midrange of in much to have also tend (especially the latter) hotels networks. Ratestheir own wi-fi below are per hour. RM3 Eighteen Internet Café Jim’s Place Stardust Cintra; Mr Pot...... New World Park Food Court..... Nyonya Baba ...... Opera...... Passage Thru India...... Rainforest Bakery...... Red Garden Food Paradise & Night Market...... Stardust...... 46) 1885...... (see Ecco Cafe...... Ee Beng Vegetarian Food...... Esplanade Food Centre...... Hammediyah...... Hawker Stalls...... Hot Wok...... Hui Sin Vegetarian Restaurant...... Jing-Si Books & Cafe...... Jit Seng Duck Rice...... Kafeteria Eng Loh...... Kayu Nasi Kandar...... Khaleel Restaurant...... Kheng Pin...... Kissa Koyotei...... Madras New Woodlands Restaurant...... Maharaj...... 100 Cintra Street...... 100 Cintra St...... 110 Armenian Banana Guesthouse...... Blue Diamond Hotel...... Hotel...... Broadway Budget Cathay Heritage...... Mansion ...... (see 13) Cheong Fatt Tze China Tiger...... City Bayview Hotel...... Hotel...... Eastern & Oriental Hutton Lodge...... Jim's Place...... Malaysia Hotel...... Old Penang Guest House...... Oriental Hotel...... SD Guesthouse...... Segara Ninda...... SLEEPING EATING Restoran Kapitan...... F2 C2 E1 D3 F2 F2 C2 A3 D4 D2E3 D2 D3 D3 D3 D2 E3 C1 A2 D3 E2 F2 E2 E2 D3 F2 D4 E3 D2 E2 C2 E3 C2 C2 C2 C2 F2 F3 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 37 28 29 30 21 60 92 26 27 31 32 33 34 35 36 22 23 24 25 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 10 11 262 2705; 473 Lebuh Chulia) 262 2705; 473 Lebuh 250 3410; 29A Lebuh Pantai) 250 3410; 29A Lebuh 261 6113; 425 Lebuh Chulia) Also 261 6113; 425 Lebuh % % ( ( (Komtar) Stocks novels, travel books, PENANG •• Georgetown % ( Victoria Memorial Clock Tower...... Supreme Court...... Town Hall...... Tua Pek Kong...... St George's Church...... State Assembly Building...... Protestant Cemetery...... Seri Rambai...... (see 16) Sri Mariamman Temple...... Peranakan Museum...... (see 38) Pinang Gallery...... ...... Association...... (see 23) Penang Islamic Museum...... Penang Museum...... Masjid Kapitan Keling...... Penang Gelugpa Buddhist Lim Kongsi...... Loo Pun Hong...... Market...... Jewish Cemetery...... Khoo Kongsi...... Kuan Yin Teng...... Fort Cornwallis Chapel...... (see 16) Fort Cornwallis Chapel...... (see Fort Cornwallis Lighthouse...... Hainan Temple...... City Hall...... Dr Sun Yat Sen's Penang Base.. Fort Cornwallis...... Cathedral of the Assumption.... Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion...... Acheen Street Mosque...... Alpha Utara Gallery...... Stardust ...... (see 54) Stardust ...... (see Tourism Malaysia...... Penang Heritage Trust...... Penang Heritage 92) Popular Bookshop...... (see Silver-Econ Travel...... Jim's Place ...... (see 48) Jim's Place ...... (see Main Post Office...... NJ Books Centre...... HS Sam Book Store...... Immigration Office...... Eighteen Internet Café...... Eighteen Happy Holidays...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS guesthouse along Lebuh Chulia Almost every Lane cafe, a small internet operates and Love Immigration office IMMIGRATION OFFICES OFFICES IMMIGRATION Popular Bookshop NJ Books Centre HS Sam Book Store lonelyplanet.com maps and a selection of books on Penang and Malaysia. and maps and a selection on Penang of books One of the best for secondhand books, the ‘most organised used bookshop in town’ has a fair range of popular paper- luggage storage. Organises car and bikebacks. and rental, buys and sells secondhand books. buys and sells secondhand PENANG conservation projects and heritage andheritage projects conservation trails. walking Informationonthe 4.30pm Mon-Fri) historyofPenang, .my; 26Lebuh Gereja; under-the-skin information under-the-skin on Georgetown. newsletter aimedatPenang residents thatgivesgood .com.my; 465 Jln Burma) .gleneagles-penang,com; 1Jln Pangkor) focuses on? .lohguanlye.com; 19 Jln Logan) and some hotels. It’s usuallyavailable free fromtouristoffices pull-outmaps. promotions, aswell asdetailed listings of shops, touristattractionsandhotel Newspaper isthemonthly Also useful www.tourismpenang.gov.my www.penangfoods.com www.penang.ws www.ilovepenang.com www.igeorgetownpenang.com excellent WorldReligions project’s tour.walking ‘WalkofFaith’issues. See ( p189 ) forinformationonthe organises talksandexhibitionsonreligions andpeace groupthat Penang alocalinterfaith GlobalEthicProject, www.globalethicpenang.net Malaysia Tourism Trust Penang Heritage TOURIST INFORMATION andbusstation taxi (Map p176 ). from themoneychangers attheButterworth probably get better rates onthemainland and attheferry terminal, you’ll although scattered Pantai aroundthebanksonLebuh competitive rates. Moneychangers are also longer hours thanthebanksandwithmore there are numerous moneychangers open Komtar. of ATMs. There are alsoATMs atthe base andmosthavemain postoffice, 24-hour Pantai Downing nearthe andLebuh Branches of major banksare onLebuh MONEY Hospital Penang Adventist Loh GuanLyeSpecialistCentre Centre Gleneagles Medical 182 hotel andrestaurant listings. restaurants in Penang. website. .com. Comprehensive informationandanicelydesigned Barakbah; Barakbah; tourist information tourist office. At thenorthwestern endof Chulia, Lebuh EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Georgetown’s main Georgetown’s 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) (RM3), which hascomprehensive Fairly houseof clearing up-to-date ( % h 262 0066;10JlnTun SyedSheh 9.30am-12.30pm &2.30- ( Hey, weloveyou,ilovepenang % Guess whatthiswebsite ( ( % % 264 2631;www.pht.org Information onthe Details ofsightsand ( 227 6111;www 222 7200;www.pah % An excellent Penang Tourist 238 8888;www .my; 438Lebuh Chulia) certain Lovecertain hostels. Meanwhile, Lane drug Peeping thewallsof Tomsspyingthrough unattended. There have reports alsobeen of leavenever valuables,especiallyyourpassport, in somebackpacker hostels, soyoushould that something bad event happen. does here tend to beeasytodealwithintheunlikely and given numberof thehigh tourists,police Georgetown inparticularare reasonably safe, not overtly cautious.Penang ingeneral and country. Withallof besmartbut thatsaid, visible inGeorgetown thanotherpartsof the packs, andprostitutes are considerablymore who pluckawaypurses, handbagsandback- signs warningof snatch thieves onmotorbikes areas aloneafter dark. There are alotof public tolingerstreets, inthese anditmaybeunwise mugged inLove andotherdimlylitside Lane side. Foreign touristshave attacked and been Georgetown, like anybigcity,hasitsseamy Dangers &Annoyances Travel Silver-Econ Happy Holidays discountedto purchase airline tickets: are reliable operators that manytravellers use Georgetown are trustworthy.Thefollowing Most, butnotall,of theagencies in TRAVEL AGENCIES you canget onandoffat variousnumbered way toget of aquick overview thetown, and the colonialcore of Georgetown. It’sagood windingitswaythrough jetty andKomtar, to 2pmSaturday), whichthe runs between bus shuttle(7amto7pmMonday to Friday, Penang Heritage Trust.There’s also a free phlet of theroutes atthetouristofficeor and mosquesinChinatown–pickup apam- walking tours, which alsotake intemples nificance. Youcanfollowthe‘Heritage Trail’ with signsexplainingtheirhistory andsig- Many of thebuildingsinarea are marked the colonialdistrictaroundwaterfront. atourofCornwallis isagoodplacetostart tions of colonialarchitecture inAsia. Fort Penang hasoneof thegreatest concentra- COLONIAL DISTRICT Sights involved. get Malaysia’s antidruglaws;don’t very stiff dealing stilloccurs inGeorgetown, despite com.my; 432Lebuh Chulia) Off thestreet, robberieshaveOff occurred ( % ( % 263 6666;www.happyholidays. 262 9882;www.silverecon.com lonelyplanet.com PENANG Anna 183 isn’t par- , named for , named for 261 0262; Lebuh 261 0262; Lebuh on Jln Sultan on Jln Sultan % ( in the southwest on repeat loop. It’s on repeat 9am-6.30pm) chapel . The 1999 remake, . The 1999 remake, h Fort Cornwallis was filmed in Malaysia, includ- was filmed in Malaysia, King and I King 1812 Overture Protestant Cemetery Cathedral of the Assumption The fort is named for Charles Cornwallis, A bronze statue of CaptainA bronze statue of Light stands In the all wonderfully surreal. all at the perhaps best known for surrendering of his son, William because no pictures of him of his son, William because no pictures of could be found. Said son was the founder of a from Australia: have , so visitors The small floater. to be built in Penang; corner was the first service recorded the first in was the marriage Battle of Yorktown to George Washington, Yorktown to George Battle of ending the American Revolution.effectively some apple pie. from the USA: have Visitors It was at the fort that Captain set Light first island in foot on the virtually uninhabited trade port where 1786 and established the free from Britain’s would, he hoped, be lured rivals. BetweenDutch 1808 and 1810 convict the then-wooden building labour replaced shape The star-profile with stone. materials fields of the walls allowed for overlapping of against enemies. fire near the entrance, modelled on the likeness officer who married Anna – the schoolmistress who married Anna – the schoolmistress officer by Deborah Siam made famous to the King of in the Kerr King, and the (partly because the ing some scenes in Penang insult- the movie considered Thai government Thai monarchy). ing to the Fort Cornwallis For all its size, Light; adult/child RM3/2; stand, enclosing a pleasant park within. The houses some vaguely structure star-shaped man exhibits, a poor Malaysian informative is made to stand in full British colonial uni- seems system and a speaker form at the gate to play the housing a memorial plaque to Captain plaque to a memorial housing Francis is the double- Light. Also on Lebuh Farquhar spired colo- tombs of the mouldering Ahmad Shah, under a canopy together huddle nial officials the graves you’ll find Here magnolia trees. of Captainof including Light and many others, and Chinese sailors merchants, governors, Rebellion the Boxer Christians who had fled Also here in Penang. fever (1900) only to die of Thomas Leonowens, the young is the tomb of the feast day on which its Catholic day on which the feast founders Kedah. from landed here ticularly impressive; only the outer walls walls only the outer ticularly impressive; , (Lebuh (Lebuh

is the Supreme Penang Penang (Dewan (Dewan St George’s services 8.30am , with a ro- padang h Pinang Gallery , two of Penang’s most Penang’s , two of . 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Victoria Memorial Clock Tower City Hall City Hall PENANG •• Georgetown h which is an open playing field is an open playing field which State Assembly building and is the oldest Anglican church in is the oldest Anglican church 261 2739; Lebuh Farquhar; Farquhar; 261 2739; Lebuh stretches west from Fort Cornwallis to west from Fort Cornwallis stretches % ( padang,

. In front of the court is a statue of James James the court is a statue of . In front of Town Hall Town Hall On the southern side of the On the southern side of Opposite the southeastern corner of Fort corner of the southeastern Opposite Behind the Supreme Court, Behind Court, the Supreme A typical feature of Malaysian colonial cities colonial cities Malaysian of A typical feature the grounds there is an elegant little pavilion, is an elegant little pavilion, the grounds there spire, was built in 1818 with convict labour. In was built in 1818 with convict labour. spire, Church for the Transfer of 1867, which resulted in the resulted 1867, which of for the Transfer Straits Settlements becoming their own col- British India. ony, as opposed to a subset of recognition of a number of Chinese secret Chinese secret a number of of recognition and he pushed societies and their festivals, ity, for representing non-whites in the 19th non-whites ity, for representing in the official century. Logan’s work resulted Richardson Logan, a British lawyer who lawyer who Logan, a British Richardson popular- and much earned his reputation, Lebuh Light is the equally impressive Lebuh Light impressive is the equally Court neoclassical and northwest along Undangan Negeri), island’s first multi-purpose hall. island’s first tating display of contemporary local art; it’s a local contemporary tating display of is refreshing. thing, but the air-con hit-or-miss The gallery is housed in Dewan Sri Pinang, the beautiful restored ballroom is a regular venue venue is a regular ballroom beautiful restored exhibitions. The Town Hall’s for temporary nickname during colonial days was Club’. Man’s Kong Kuan: ‘White Ang Moh Behind it is the modern is Penang’s oldest municipal building, and its oldest is Penang’s the the fine have which of imposing buildings, both in 1880, completed porticos. The Town Hall, a gleaming white tower topped by a Moorish tower topped by a Moorish a gleaming white is the Georgetown’s surrounded by public buildings. padang Eurasian community, mixed-race Catholic mixed-race Eurasian community, fleeing persecution in settlers who came here Asia. of other parts Gereja, Lebuh Bishop and Lebuh Farquhar LebuhLebuh and Bishop Gereja, Farquhar Penang’s the historical heartland of were Trust on Lebuh Gereja (Church St); Lebuh (Church Trust on Lebuh Gereja in 1897, it stands 18m (60ft) tall – one foot clock the of West her reign. year of for each Heritage the Penang the offices of tower are Cornwallis is the Cornwallis is a local Chinese by Donated millionaire dome. to honour Queen Jubilee Victoria’s Diamond stops. A map of the route is in the is the route A map of stops. Tourist Newspaper lonelyplanet.com & 10.30am Sun) Southeast Asia. This gracefully proportioned Southeast Asia. building, with its marble floor and towering Duke; admission free; PENANG h www.penangmuseum.com; Lebuh Farquhar; admissionRM1; sented museums. Thepermanent exhibition museums. sented jai – Indian stereo systems blaring‘ grandmothers,owned byironChinese busted packer ghetto. ThePenang of tinytea shops AssemblyIndia, Chinese Halls andtheback- centres Little Chuliaandencloses onLebuh stretches Pantai fromLebuh toJlnPenang, Chinatown,whichat itsmostquintessential. narrow streets clotted toitssouthisPenang ofstately anddignified,thespaghetti worm- trict’s buildingsrepresent Penang atitsmost If theimposingprofile of thecolonialdis- CHINATOWN tours of Georgetown. good informationandpamphletsonwalking Heritage frontdeskhas Trust.Themuseum’s benefitthePenangand coins;allproceeds venirs, includingantiquecostumejewellery funicular railcars sou- isnowakioskselling seamanship. Malay of colonialprintstodisplaysontraditional hibitions are eclectic,rangingfromgalleries population.Temporary(Straits Chinese) ex- cade outfitsoncewornbytheBaba-Nonya mother-of-pearl, andtheincredible silk-bro- opiumbeds,inlaidwith the beautifullycarved admirable record of tolerance. Lookoutfor atestament tothisstate’s sympathetic detail, is leftoutandallare admirably describedin history, festivals andcultures. group Nosettler is acomprehensive of walk-through Penang’s short strolltothe From thetown’sfoundationsite, it’sonlya Penang Museum very different bythetimeyou read this. ing thefortsite, sothesituationinsidemaybe interested inmanagingandpossiblyrenovat- was openingtenders toprivate organisations len bypirates before endingupat the fort. andthensto- given of tothesultan Selangor, fell intothehandsof Itwaslater theAcehnese. gave of ittothesultan , after which it 1603. Ithasachequered history;theDutch cannon, facesthenorthcoastandwascastin Timmers. John moured tohave Eurasian),toacertain been 1799 of widow,Martina FrancisLight’s (ru- 184 Outside, oneof theoriginalPenang Hill In 2009,thestategovernment announcedit Rambai Seri 9am-5pm Sat-Thu) EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown blgrfzzzzl’ andcallstoprayer mingling , the most important andlargest, themostimportant , oneof Malaysia’s bestpre- Penang Museum Chuma chuma (

% 261 3144; good luckandwealth.Note attheentrance of orare which symbolise, meanttoattract, across theentrancehallandpavilions, many dance letting theworldknow.Stonecarvings known asDragon Hall.Mountain 18 CannonSq;adult/childRM5/free; or pressive oneinPenang clanhouse, istheKhoo for manyoverseas andthemostim- Chinese, halls are boththecivicandreligious backbone andassembly tions. Tothisend,clanhouses tended clan,itsancestors anditssocialobliga- anex- spiritualcontractbetween social, even adeeper ‘company’). Butitisalsosymbolises means inmodernChinese the wordasused in itsway,aneconomiccollective (indeed, and, Khoo) surname(inthisinstance, same organisation forindividualswiththe nevolent overseas communities.Itisbothabe- Chinese The Khoo Kongsi most alluring and romantic. and bedamned:thisisAsia atits of withthelocals.Politicalcorrectness beer slurp upsomenoodlesoupandasweatybottle atavegetableinto atemple, haggle market, soak up,walks’more, repeat. soak,rinse, Peek especially impressive, butit’s very central inPenang,settlers the temple is not large or century bythefirst HokkienandCantonese tune, peaceandfertility. Builtintheearly 19th ( PittisthetempleOn Lebuh of Kuan Yin Teng The present putdowntodivinejealousy. in 1901,anevent roof fire caught itwascompleted onthenight KongsiwasoncemoreKhoo the ostentatious; roof ridges. As impressive asallof thisis, motif symbolisingsuccess)danceacrossthe carp becomingdragons(atraditionalChinese sculptures of carp,dragons,and immortals, enormous paperlamps.Gorgeous ceramic fiery overhead comescourtesy of lighting into twopanelsof 18guardianseach). The pressively, the36celestialguardians(divided depicting birthdays,weddingsand,mostim- interior isdominated byincredible murals guardianwatchman. Thea turbanedSikh h hr, folks. here, with theloudslapof mahjong tiles?Allright The Khoo areThe Khoo asuccessfulclan, andthey’re What’s there todo?Walkaroundsome, Khoo Kongsi Khoo 9am-6pm) kongsi, –thegoddessof mercy, goodfor- or clanhouse, isamajor orclanhouse, nodeof kongsi

( % 261 4609; www.khookongsi.com.my; 261 4609;www.khookongsi.com.my; dates from 1906. h lonelyplanet.com 9am-5pm) Kuan Yin TengKuan Yin , also

PENANG

185 (Lebuh (Lebuh Mortal

, next to is one of is one of Hainan Temple (Love Lane)

Tua Pek Kong Pek Tua (70 Love Lane)

Buddhist Temple , completed in 1895, is dedicated to in 1895, is dedicated , completed Loo Pun Hong video game. In fact, the In fact, the video game. , but this recently renovated struc- renovated , but this recently (pilgrimage to Mecca). to (pilgrimage Penang Gelugpa Buddhist Association Buddhist Association Gelugpa Penang This small Loo Pun Hong, isn’t particularly impressive build- other religious to Penang’s compared rep- ings. But it is unique for being the major the Gelugpa (Yellow of structure resentative fighting passage was got so intense a secret and Khoobuilt between Kongsi for the here While you search a quick escape. purpose of the gilded to admire for the corridor, be sure beams that give roof and lacquered filigree an imperial HQ such this once underground Chinese vibe. Hong Loo Pun The tiny Chinese Penang’s of the most unobtrusive it is dedicated Built in the 1880s, temples. carpentry of inventor legendary to Lo Pan, oldest carpenters’ tools, and is Malaysia’s guild house. Set it has an back from the lane, altarornate inside along with a giant drum and bell. Tua Pek Kong Kong Pek Tua The name is ostensibly Armenian) gold and with and in red resplendent ture, more a few has quite polished black columns, Hock Seah, Cheng Sin, Poh aliases: Hock Teik Tong KhengHokkien Kongsi and Seah, with all the names? What’s among others. Well, besides serving and as- as a temple sembly has also been hall, this building the several so- secret of headquarters registered their societies register secret cieties (Aside: Really? With who?). Each headquarters? the portion of society occupied a different became a focal point during which temple, the 1867 riots/war between societies. The dock scene that depicts a maritime-oriented a maritime-oriented that depicts dock scene haj Hainan Temple is this temple of feature the coolest Probably carved stone courtyard and the its impressive throughoutpillar work is said space, which than lanterns paper red with more bedecked and slate backdrop of usual. This duochrome be the scene of it should crimson looks like or a the final fight in a kung fu movie Kombat Muntri)(Lebuh seafarers. of Chor, China’s patron saint Mar is kam- Cheong Fatt Cheong Fatt 262 0172; www. (Lebuh Acheh) (Lebuh

was commis- % ( is housed in a re- 262 0006; www.cheongfatttzemansion PENANG •• Georgetown % ( Acheen Street Mosque

9.30am-6pm Wed-Mon) h (village) in Georgetown. Only Muslims in Georgetown. (village) Penang Islamic MuseumPenang The mansion, rescued from ruin in the from ruin in the The mansion, rescued event is an upstairs life-sized diorama of a diorama of event life-sized is an upstairs tory of Islam in Malaysia and Penang, along and Penang, Islam in Malaysia tory of The main with some 19th-century furniture. (really) of the Indian Chettiar community. of (really) Today it holds a wordy exhibition on the his- Syed Alatas, a powerful Acehnese merchant depot a recycling Arab descent, and later of penangislamicmuseum.net; 128 Lebuh Armenian; adult/child penangislamicmuseum.net; 128 Lebuh RM3/1; of villa that was once the residence stored Penang Islamic Museum Islamic Museum Penang The traders in this quarter – the oldest Malay – the oldest Malay in this quarter traders pung the mosque. can enter in 1808 by a wealthy Arab trader, the mosque and Arab was the focal point for the Malay Malay mosques have Moorish minarets). Built Moorish minarets). mosques have Malay ing over the short walk from Khoo walk the short Kongsi, ing over the Malay Acheen Street Mosque Mosque Acheen Street entranced by the call to prayer waft- If you’re (11am and 3pm Monday to Saturday) give (11am and 3pm Monday to Saturday) give beautiful interior. the you a glimpse of (see p192 ); otherwise hour-long guided tours guided tours ); otherwise hour-long p192 (see tural style preferred by wealthy Straits Chinese tural style preferred best way to experience the The the time. of house, is to stay here now a boutique hotel, glass and beautiful floor tiles, and is a rare tiles, and is a rare glass and beautiful floor surviving the eclectic architec- example of 1990s, blends Eastern and Western designs, 1990s, blends Eastern and Western stained nouveau windows, art with louvred the dual sobriquets ‘Rockefeller of the East’ of ‘Rockefeller the dual sobriquets ‘last Mandarin’. and the and eventually established a vast financial himself earning throughout east Asia, empire sioned by Cheong Fatt Tze, a Hakka merchant- a Hakka Tze, sioned by Cheong Fatt a penniless teenager trader who left China as Tze MansionTze admission RM12) Leith; .com; 14 Lebuh Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Mansion Tze Cheong Fatt Built in the 1880s, the magnificent the outside furnaces, where worshippers burn burn worshippers where the outside furnaces, and from the incensepaper money, sticks busy place, It’s a very inside. around waved the god- place on takes and Chinese theatre day of on the 19th celebrated dess’ birthday, months. lunar the second, sixth and ninth and popular with the Chinese with and popular It community. from seems in smoke swathed to be forever lonelyplanet.com unusual for its Egyptian-style minaret (most minaret unusual for its Egyptian-style PENANG munity bonds forged withinthe diaspora. In a reminder of themotherland andthecom- of it’s fulfils thepurpose aHokkienclanhouse: Temple Mariamman ates farfromhome. ForlocalTamils, the on providing areference pointforexpatri- of of itshouses worship istheiremphasis this end,oneof theinteresting elements and cross-pollinationof cultures, andto Penang, aswehave stressed, isacrossroads Sri Mariamman Temple areasevocative of the city. apparatus. Allinall,thisisoneof themost turns smashingupyournormaldullsensory andsmallHimalayasofpurple saris spicetake andscratchy lights musicand business. Bright asfolkstrytohustleyouintotheir hard sell pausing tolookwillresult intheinevitable theirshop/restaurant/stall; you tocomesee Indian. Men onthestreet stand andyellat teria: it’squite well, small andit’sintensely, As LittleIndiasgo,thisonefillsallthecri- INDIA LITTLE visitors by advance reservation. niture and Nonya-stylekitchen, isopento ground floor,withoriginaltiledfloors, fur- theRepublicoftablished Chinain1911.The Uprising,which es- and plannedtheCanton Sun Yat organised thePenang Sen, Conference was where the founderof modernChina,Dr ( 19th-century This well-preserved Dr SunYat Sen’s Penang Base on the middle floor. cafe are downstairs. There’s accommodation a centurylater). Asmallantiquesbazaaranda dates from1881andwasrestored itself house recreations of late-19th-century interiors (the items arecelain andhousehold displayedin Nonya heritage. Furniture, costumes,por- which celebratesMuseum, Penang’s Baba- h at being renovated, butusuallytheoldhouse At thetimeof research thispropertywas 100 CintraStreet museum. a that you’dbehard-pressed tofindoutsideof beautiful Tibetan wallhangingsinthistemple a Tibetan order,andassuch there are some Hat) school of .TheYellow Hats are 186 % 100 CintraStreet 11am-6pm Tue-Sun) 262 0123;120Lebuh Armenian; EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown

( (Lebuh Pitt; % houses thetinyPeranakan houses 264 3581;adult/childRM5/2.50; h h 8am-noon &4-9pm) 10am-2pm Mon-Sat) townhouse Sri Sri

of theabove crash together ratherbeauti- of opulenceininterior design.All Chinese art andfurniture and,of theheights course, European iron embellishments, continental accesstoEnglishtilework,Scottish afforded home’s positiononsomanytraderoutes tastes of theirtime;wealthand lonial periodhadsomeof themosteclectic ofThe wealthyBaba-Nonyas theStraitsco- Pinang Peranakan Mansion Vijayadasami spin aroundtheneighbourhood during chariot takes thetemple’s deityfora here (see p189 ), andinOctober awooden oldest Hinduhouse of worship. temple was builtin1883andisGeorgetown’s the landof origin.This sometimesdistant who represents thesoilof, ifnothome,atleast mother goddesspopularwithdiasporaIndians to Tamil Nadubyworshipping Mariamman, a temple compound.LocalTamils payhomage and therealm of thegods,which beginsinthe ens, anddelineates thisworld thelinebetween thatsupportstheheav-the cosmicmountain itrepresents purposes: several MtMeru, serves gopuram temple, dominated byitsentrancetoweror society,butatypicallySouthIndian nevolent townhouse, townhouse, inanattractivelyHoused renovated traditional Alpha Utara Gallery grant permission to enter. Mosqueofficials can It lookssublimeatsunset. enced Islamicstyle,andithasasingle minaret. domes are yellow,inatypicallyIndian-influ- Pitt.Themosque’s andLebuh Buckingham ( Company troops)built Penang’s India first IndianMuslimsettlers(East KelingMasjid Kapitan place at11.30am and 3.30pm. on Nonyacustoms,andguidedtours take period helived in.There’s alsoanexhibition home isfullof antiquesandfurniture of the and all-roundcommunitypillar. Hisornate 19th-century merchant, secret-society leader Mon-Sat) Lebuh adult/childRM10/free; Gereja; ( fully intherestored h % this case, those bondsdon’tcomefromabe- those this case, Penang’s 9am-5.30pm) 264 2929; www.pinangperanakanmansion.com.my; 29 264 2929;www.pinangperanakanmansion.com.my; , formerhomeof ChungKeng Quee, . Eruptingwithsculpture, thetower festivities. Alpha Utara Gallery Alpha Utara Thaipusam in 1801 at the junction of Lebuh in 1801atthejunctionof Lebuh Pinang Peranakan Mansion Pinang Peranakan processionbegins Masjid Kapitan Keling Kapitan Masjid lonelyplanet.com h

( % 9:30am-5pm 262 6840;

PENANG is is , the 187 Wesak Suffolk Suffolk (State (State (www.pht.

Tua Pek Kong Pek Tua on Waterfall Rd, on Waterfall (www.badanwarisan.org. Masjid Negeri Waterfall Hilltop Temple Waterfall Hilltop Temple Penang HeritagePenang Trust Badan Warisan and . This grand home was the original . This grand home was the original (April/May) to celebrate the triple holy- the triple to celebrate (April/May) for details. In 1974 the house was in such poor repair In 1974 the house poor repair was in such Nattukotai Chettiar Temple Nattukotai Chettiar Temple Northwest of Georgetown, past Gurney past Gurney Georgetown, Northwest of for its full restoration, which was completed in was completed which for its full restoration, plans were there research 2007. At the time of the to open the mansion to the public – check the of websites org.my) my) On the banks of the Air Itam river, 6.5km 6.5km the Air Itam river, On the banks of is the most centre, Georgetown’s west of architec- Anglo-Indian piece of impressive the flagship India and one of outside of ture Trust: Heritage the Penang causes of House the Francis Light, founder of of residence Suffolk, England. Many of colony and native owe at in Penang the British residences of to the ancestral their features least some of of Suffolkinfluence of House. Paintings the house something suggest in its heyday like Cotswold-on-Itam. and unsafe structurally that it was declared looked sealed its future off. For many years conserva- rare Malaysia’s but in one of dire, eventually secured tion successes, were funds 50m-high minaret. ), is p200 near the Botanical Gardens (see and is in Penang Hindu temple the largest to Baladedicated the young Subramaniam, Tamil of Murugan, patron deity incarnation of Indians trace their most Malay Nadu (where the left side is a gate roots). Further along on leading up to the the Thaipusam procession from destination of Temple. Mariamman Little India’s Sri Tokong, Dr out at Tanjung Prosperity to the Chinesededicated God of from 1837. and dates Suffolk House design of most Chinese most this particular temples, of design looks and deco influences art shows temple Interior and pastel. all white cake, a frosted like carved are from ItalianBuddha figures marble, Penang’s hang above. and glass chandeliers on here gathers Buddhist community Day attainment the Buddha’s birthday, of day of and death. enlightenment Other Mosques & Temples The glossy, modern Mosque) is at Air Itam, about 1km west of with a striking in Penang town. It’s the biggest

is a is an exhibi- is an early morning-5.30pm) h Temple of the Reclining of Buddha Temple PENANG •• Georgetown DhammikaramaBurmese Buddhist Temple 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Mon-Sat, noon-5pm 10am-6pm The You can get to both temples on TransitLink to both temples You can get west of town. Instead of the typical colourful of town. Instead west of Completed in 1931, this unusual Buddhist Completed 1km on Jln Anson about is situated temple Penang Buddhist Association Buddhist Association Penang bus 202; Minibus 26, 31 or 88; or Hin Bus 93 Lebuh Chulia. from Komtar or along Penang’s first Buddhist temple; it has been Buddhist temple; first Penang’s the years. significantly added to over the back grounds, while two large stone el- the back grounds, while two large Built in 1805, this was ephants flank the gates. statues stare out at worshippers. A pleasant out at worshippers. statues stare garden and apartments for monks occupy round-eyed, serene-faced Burmese Buddha round-eyed, serene-faced the walkways, the characters dressed in typi- dressed the walkways, the characters cal Burmese costume, while inside typically Burmese Buddhist temple outside Burma Burmese outside Burma Buddhist temple panel a series of (now Myanmar). There’s the Buddha lining of paintings on the life stands opposite and is a rare instance of a instance of stands and is a rare opposite animal – another example of two Asias on Asias two animal – another example of one island. one’ as opposed the to a name). Also note entrance and exit; the former is set off by a dragon, while water Naga, a Southeast Asian by a Chinese the dragon, is marked the latter the same mythical equivalent of East Asian on the Buddha’s feet represent the marks of a the marks of represent on the Buddha’s feet true Buddha (a title that means ‘enlightened the claim that it’s the third-longest reclining reclining the claim that it’s the third-longest The symbols Buddha in the world is dubious. ful passage from this existence, although although from this existence, ful passage roofs and ceiling accents; inside it houses and ceiling accents; inside a roofs draped in a gold- Buddha 33m-long reclining the saffron The icon represents leafed robe. nirvanaBuddha’s attainment of and peace- (Wat Chayamangkalaram; its sharp-eaved with typically Thai temple off Jln Burma on the main road to Batu main road to Batu Jln Burma on the off The Ferringhi. An interesting study in the diversity of of study in the diversity interesting An just two temples are Buddhist architecture Wat Chayamangkalaram & Wat Chayamangkalaram & Temple Dhammikarama OTHER SIGHTS SIGHTS OTHER tion space for paintings by contemporary local paintings by contemporary tion space for Penang- artists, based around the works of tempo- are born artist Khoo Sui Hoe. There and floors, two over spread rary exhibitions downstairs. bookshop a www.alpha-utara.com; 83 Lebuh China; admission free; free; China; admission 83 Lebuh www.alpha-utara.com; h lonelyplanet.com PENANG Malaysia Jambul; 18holesfromRM90) tiny Pulau Payar, around32nautical miles Monday to Friday. is illegal. aretwo months. cheap, Seats butgambling place over two consecutive weekends every BatuGantong) turfclub.com; out of therocky jungle terrain. very challenging straight 18holeswere carved beautiful course inMalaysia; thestunningand Country Club land’s premier course islocated at affordable exceptionally golfcourses.international-standard Theis- some has Penang Activities 188

9 GEORGETOWN WALKINGTOUR

Buckingham

Diving andsnorkelling excursions to At the

Duration Distance Finish Start WALK FACTS

Lebuh

Lebuh Chulia Lebuh

Lebuh Acheh Lebuh Lebuh

EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown Far

Armenian Gat Lebuh

quhar Cannon Lebuh

Square Penang Museum Love La 8 Stewart Lg

magazine rated it the second most magazinerated itthesecond Leith

Pitt Street Corner Penang Turf Club Penang Turf Lg Pasar Lg

Horse riding Quee Ah ( 3.1km Two tothree hours %

Lebuh Lebuh Pitt (Jln Masjid Kapitan Keling) 10 1

0 0

644 2255; www.bjcc.com.my; 2 Jln Bukit 644 2255;www.bjcc.com.my; 2JlnBukit

Armenian Gat Lebuh Gat Little India START

7 Pasar Lebuh

horse-racing events take horse-racing events Lebuh China Lebuh Farquhar

issometimesoffered

neartheairport. Lebuh 2 ( 12 END

Green Hall % Lebuh Victoria

Lebuh Penang ὈὈ ὈὈ

11 Lebuh Light Lebuh

229 3233;www.penang Jln Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah

Lebuh King

Pasar Gat Lebuh Gat Lebuh Duke (North Channel) Lebuh Pantai (Beach St)

Selat Utara

5 (Church St) (Church Bukit Jambul Bukit Gereja Lebuh WWI Memorial 6 4

300 m Gat Lebuh China Lebuh Gat Lebuh Bishop Lebuh Jln Padang Kota Lama 0.2 miles Padang Golf 3 does day trips to Langkawi (RM300/200 daytripstoLangkawi does Georgetown’s great merchant barons. Mansion pop youintotheimpressive Penang.south onLebuh Ashort detourwill then Light, eastalongLebuh Now proceed Jln Padang pastthegreen Kota then headbrieflyeastbefore turningdown Walk uptothenot-so-impressive waterfront, cate fornon-whites duringthecolonialera. ofstatue James Richardson Logan,anadvo- Court Supreme east, thenuptothewaterfront, passingthe you’reeverything abouttowalkpast.Head Museum serendipity guide your journey. fun isexploringlittlesidestreets andletting ligated tostickourexactroute; halfthe imagery.most importantly, Don’tfeel ob- Penang’s history,architecture, foodand, to give youa taste (sometimesliteral) of Walking Tour adult/child). per RM240/380) Tokong; snorkelling/diving ( north of Penang, are runby pressive hall inthecity, assembly Chinese on badminton whilesnackingwatch televised street isalarge Malaysian cafeteria where folks is asmallIndianmosque,andjustacross the ting intowater-splotched walls.To yournorth shopfronts, theirwoodeneavesChinese rot- Assembly hallandrowsof slate-grey, fading Georgetown. Toyour southisaChinese crossroadsinallofthe mostquintessential This intersection isourfavourite inthecity, of KingandLebuh Ah Quee. Kingtotheintersectionsouth alongLebuh then sweets, of milkyBengali shopsselling Pasar,city). AtLebuh headwestpastrows don’t like either,really, you’re inthewrong Gereja. justuponLebuh Chinese Ifyou curry. (Ifyoudon’tlike Indianfood,there’s of place.sense Ifyou’re hungry,grab a breathand take adeep of allthatspiceand Hall architectureand thegrandiose of the Pitt into order,butinonewalkwe’dlikeIt’s atall % The natural starting pointisthe The naturalstarting Pause foraminute andlookaround. Continue southinto Phew. OK,headwest and southonLebuh nasi lemak ( 899 8822; www.langkawicoral.com; 16JlnTanjung899 8822;www.langkawicoral.com; 4 ; p183 ) andthe ( ( 1 Khoo Kongsi Khoo 6 ; p184 ), where youcanread upon ; p186 ), theolddigsof oneof ( . 2 ; p183 ) asyougo;check the ( 8 ; p184 ), themostim- Town Hall Little India lonelyplanet.com Pinang Peranakan Pinang Peranakan Langkawi Coral Langkawi , which also ( padang ( 5 ; p183 ). 7 ; p186 ) Penang City

(3)

PENANG 189

(spontaneous (August) Highlights and at the website the website and at dondang sayang (November-December) The annual Celebrated with particular gusto in (mid-September) Commemorates the The 15th day of the New Year celebra- The 15th day of the New Year This masochistic-lookingis celebrated festival (October) of Lights’ is The Hindu ‘Festival the best of Penang’s multi-ethnic heritage. multi-ethnicthe best of Penang’s September–December Penang Islands Festival features various cultural events, features Islands Festival Penang a fun-fair. parades and as ferventlyquite and KL, but without as in Singapore here ), Nattukotai p186 The Srithe same crowds. Mariamman ( ) temples are p187 ) and Waterfall Hilltop ( p187 Chettiar ( in Penang. of activitythe main centres ) is done up for the event, p184 The Khoo Kongsi ( Penang. opera groups performand dance troupes and Chinese all 15th day of the new the over the city. On the night before ) p185 Kong ( Pek takes ceremony year, a fire place at Tua and assembly halls temple. Numerous Chinese mansions as well. at this time throw their doors open to the public with cheap hostels and hotels. Quality var- Quality and hotels. hostels with cheap a few ies enormously, and it pays to check parting with your cash. Midrange out before mostly found along Jln Penang, options are high-rises. you’ll find a string of If where some large are going top-end, there you’re Lantern Festival Deepavali Pulau Penang Pesta Sleeping accommodation, has a variety of Penang to big corporate-like ranging from dives properties. to boutique heritage block towers Lane up the make LebuhLove Chulia and land, crammed backpacker Penang’s heart of Chap Goh Meh tions, during girls throw oranges into the sea which local the girls would chant: from the Esplanade. Traditionally, husband’, while local ‘throw a good orange, get a good boys watched and later contacted girl through their dream of the only times to see is also one matchmakers. New Year Baba-Nonya performances of InternationalPenang Dragon Boat Festival Food & CulturalPenang Festivals Penang Tourist Newspaper Tourist Penang wnpenang.com. www.igeorgeto January–February Thaipusam Chinese New Year end of Mongol rule in China. It’s celebrated by eating moon end of Mongol rule in China. cakes, messages carry secret Chinese sweets once used to ancient China. leaders in to underground rebel (May/June) A colourful featuring the and popular regatta, dragon boats. traditional celebrated with music and dancing at venues in Little India. celebrated with music and dancing at venues in Little and traditional love ballads). and traditional May–August ; 11 ( Happy Happy B@92 , which , which Sri Mariamman over on the on the over Jewish cem- Jewish PENANG •• Georgetown 264 2631; www.pht.org. ; p195 ). 12 % ; p185 ). Head north north ). Head p185 ; ( (

9 ( 397 7993; www.pinganchorage. 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm Mon- % ( h

World Religions Walk World Religions 263 6666; www.happyholidays.com.my; 432 263 6666; www.happyholidays.com.my; . ; p186 ). And then...enough diversity. ). And then...enough diversity. p186 ;

% ( , located on Jln Zainal Abidin between between on Jln Zainal Abidin , located

Pitt Street Corner (10

organises a few walking tours, including including walking tours, a few organises Jln Burma and Jln Macalister. takes you past the iconography and houses takes houses past the iconography and you Christians, Muslims, Hindus, of worship of Sikhs, re- and Chinese traditional Buddhists we’d Ratherhere, than crib the tour ligion. www. you to the website: to direct prefer globalethicpenang.net/webpages/act_02b. out the world’s htm. We’d just add (to round old Penang’s belief systems) etery WALK OF FAITH OF FAITH WALK on walkingOne of the best of Penang tours many) is Global Ethic are (and there offer Penang’s Several a range around town book agents Penang HeritagePenang Trust Tours Tours enthusiasm. Current events are listed in the listed events are enthusiasm. Current All the usual festivals are celebrated in Penang, in Penang, celebrated are usual festivals All the spiced with this island’s extraordinary and are Holidays Festivals & Events of tours at similar prices, including tours of brochures detailing self-guidedbrochures walks, such as the ‘World Religions Walk’ and ‘Historic Georgetown Trails’. ( p185 ). Both last around three hours and cost hours ). Both last around three p185 ( It also has free RM60, including entry fees. the ‘Little India Experience’ and the ‘Heritage the ‘Little India Experience’ and the ‘Heritage Mansion Tze Trail’, taking in the Cheong Fatt my; 26A Lg Stewart; Fri) your hotel. tween RM88 and RM129 (cheaper for groups tween RM88 and RM129 (cheaper including pick-up from or more), three of its Penang Hill and the Kek Lok Si Temple Lok Si Temple Hill and the Kek and trips to ), round-island tours its Penang p199 ( cost be- ). Tours p203 ( National Park Penang mainland runs several including the tours, vis- tour, which Hill and Temple four-hour Ping Anchorage Jln Todok 2, ) com.my; 25B p195 ) or opt for the more dive-meets-Chennai dive-meets-Chennai ) or opt for the more p195 vibe of Temple Sink one in style at You need a beer. Acheen Street Mosque along Lebuhthe Hindu Pitt to then continue a short distance to the Malay distancethen continue a short to the Malay Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Lebuh Lebuh Chulia) PENANG as if its been put through alaundry machine. putthrough as ifitsbeen only budget heritage hotel intownthatfeels Particularly aboutique-ish laundry machine. dm/s/d RM15/26/32.50) the . guests were madetofeel like junioragents of a mosquitonetandsmallfanand, allinall, was amattress onawoodenplatformwith malist thancheapskate corner-cutting. There budget roomswere spare, mini- more Zen inthepastsimple,strikingHowever, we weren’t able tovisitdue torenovations. something).Butatthetimeofsaying research inthecity(which is atmospheric placestostay ( museum p186 ), thishotel isoneof themost thatalsoincorporates acafehouse andsmall inawonderfuloldPeranakana pickle. Set Cintra; dm/s/dRM12/28/40) private showers cost RM45. which notvery. is tosay: Air-con roomswith Mexican restaurant isasgoodyou’dexpect, and female) swearbythisjoint.Theon-site love, andlotsof return backpackers (male here, like thatcrazyuncleyoucan’thelpbut appealing, yetthere’s funvibe anunmistakably guest withinarms’reach. Thismaynotsound their follow-upshow female istohitonevery band inMalaysia often playsinthecourtyard; into guests’handsatallhours. Theworst cover better andspiritsmagicallycoalesce one:beer this isagoodbet.Ifyoulike todrink,it’sa mind abitof grot(especiallyinyourtoilets), naturally friendlyandhelpful.Ifyoudon’t veteran of Penang’s postoffice,isalmostun- hostels in Malaysia. Theowner,a30-year oneof…well,contains themost warehouse that inabeautifuloldChinese set dm/s/d fromRM8/20/28; Blue DiamondHotel BUDGET and topendallhave private bathrooms. noted, whilemidrangerooms unlessotherwise time, bookwell in advance. lously inflated; ifyouintend atthis tostay very quicklyandpricescanbecomeridicu- NewYear, Chinese tably hotels tend tofillup heritage-house-cum-hotels. excellent we’d recommend optingforoneof Penang’s tend Ferrenghi), tobeconcentrated inBatu but uber-resorts these from(although tochoose 190 Old Penang GuestHouse 100 CintraStreet All budget optionslisted have shared bath- Be warnedthatduringholidays,mostno- Be EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown Thishotel isprobably the ( ( ai % % Thisplaceputsusin 261 1089;422Lebuh Chulia; 264 3561/3581;100Lebuh ( % ) TheDiamondis 263-8805; 53LoveLane; memorable

RM25/35; can arrange bustickets and Thai visas. ment, withshared bathrooms,andtheowner cafe. It’stheusualbackpacker-basic arrange- air-con roomsare above apopulartravellers’ Chulia; rRM20-30; backpackers. Georgetown SDisveryance out,because popularwith social vibe;theupsanddownsmustbal- and cubiclewalls,butalsofree wi-fi anda from RM18/25/35; without toilet (RM50/60). the island.Pricierair-con digscomewithor arelers, thefriendlieston andthebarstaff othertravel- thisisagoodspottomeet night off bythethinnestofsectioned walls.Come Roomsare someareto Bali. OK,although travel agencies youencounter fromBangkok hostels/bars/internet all-purpose those cafes/ anotheroneof GuestHouse, firmly inBanana Southeast Asian backpacker route) landsvery ai newguesthouse.com; 355Lebuh Chulia;s/dfromRM18/25; Air-con rooms cost RM50. piece inaMaugham orTherouxshortstory. asset pre-WWII thatcouldeasilyserve house inarestored set vibe tothishostel, otherwise splashes of red paintaddahipsolid-coloured Hardwood floors, white ceilingsand walls,high a heckof a lotof atmosphere. Itscentrally a gooddealifyou wantsomecomfortminus midrange price categories, theBroadway is ai waybudgethotel.com; 35 Lebuh Pitt; s/d/tfrom35/45/55; la old Penang. don’t expectaheritage-hotel atmosphere a for children. but It’sadecentdealprice-wise, comfy andspacious,looklike Ikea bedsets during theJazz Age. Buttherooms,while an OldWorldjauntwiththeallure of Asia delivers. andexpect Fromtheoutside,yousee abitmoreexterior promises thanitsinterior Jln Hutton;dm/s/dfrom28/50/60; downstairs). cafe there’s wi-fi (plusaninternet throughout spotlessly cleanandrefreshingly airy,and hotel or Love Roomsare flophouse. Lane cutsaboveis several theaverage Chulia that soundslike anABBA album,Stardust Jim’s Place SD Guesthouse Banana GuestHouse Hutton Lodge Stardust Broadway Budget Hotel Broadway BudgetHotel ) ) Hovering thebudget between and The Banana Pancake TheBanana Trail(the ai ( % ( % ai ( ai 263 5723;370Lebuh Chulia;s/dfrom % ) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Despite having aname 016-653 6963,2618731;431Lebuh ( % 263 6003;www.huttonlodge.com; 17 Thishandfulof fanand 264 3743;15LoveLane;s/d/t ) ) There’s creaky floors ( % ( % ai 262 6171;www.banana 262 8550;www.broad TheHutton’s ) PENANG )

191 ais New York Times 222 2000; www.e-o % (

Coming to Penang and not sampling the Coming to Penang Eastern & Oriental Hotel out ever settingsand foot on the or in the sea – missing the whole point. And while you’re might seemsome menu items a little strange cooks Penang in general to the uninitiated, produce food that is easy even on conservative daring to pallets; you don’t need that much chicken-rice. prepped enjoy some perfectly the biggest and oldest java tree in Penang, in Penang, tree and oldest java the biggest sipping your gin is a nice spot for relaxing, waxing ice before for more and yelling rickey your moustache. Eating by was voted In 2009, Penang 44 must-see one of destinations – and readers public opinion seemedthe bulk of to focus on the state’s cuisine, particularly its street combina- surprise: culture food. Well, big food, and Penang’s to produce good tions tend in- position in the Straits means interesting always just the next merchant were gredients ship away. going to a Thai island with- local food is like One of the classic grande-dame hotels of the of grande-dame hotels classic the One of extraordi- hoteliers famous Sarkies brothers, the E&O in Asia, to the British Empire naire a throwback to the colonial era isn’t so much as a original hotel) (the building is not the that time period effortconcerted at recreating All in all, the E&O within a modern building. and dressed deferential are Porters pulls it off. shorts, knee white (rather humiliatingly) in the rooms, decked socks and pith helmets; marble floors linens, polished out with white the sort of and earth tone accents, look like would sip Kipling or Maugham where suites Of course, cleverly cigars. port and smoke concealed within the Victorian facade are cable TV,modern amenities like the wi-fi, you’ll find works. The sea-facing lawn, where the E&O is the G, which exemplifies (and (and exemplifies which is the G, the E&O de- of tides the contemporary aggregates) sweeping and luxury amenities sign, lifestyle in studies Rooms are best hotels. Malaysia’s geo- of cubist cool, collections minimalist, blocky setmetric form of off by swatches a spa and a gym a yoga studio, Wi-fi, colour. perks. There’s list of exhaustive round out an and simply success- creative of a good crowd blowing through the doors, ful professionals as it as Manhattan giving the G a vibe that’s is Malaysia. ste from RM1000; Farquhar; -hotel.com; 10 Lebuh ) The ) This ai ai On the corner ) PENANG •• Georgetown The antithesis of The antithesis of ) a 263 3161; www.bayviewho This elegant century- This elegant ) 262 6271; 15 Lebuh Leith; r from Leith; 262 6271; 15 Lebuh % (

263 3311; www.hotelregalmalaysia. 263 4218/4211; www.oriental.com % ais ( % ai % 262 8748; www.segaraninda.com; 20 Jln 262 8748; www.segaraninda.com; ( ( % (

238 0000; www.ghotel.com.my; 168 Persiaran 238 0000; www.ghotel.com.my; 168 Persiaran Once the Cathay Hotel, the owners Once the Cathay the owners Hotel, ) % (

a Oriental Hotel Cathay Heritage City Bayview Hotel Malaysia Hotel TOP END G Hotel several different types of restaurant and quite and quite restaurant types of several different rooms – the top ones have nicely appointed the Straits. good views out over quality and price, although seasonal specials You know what to competitive. rates keep with glass and steel, lobby expect: a big shiny tower genre of Penang hotels, both in terms of of both in terms hotels, Penang of tower genre tels.com; 25A Lebuh Farquhar; r RM150-185; Farquhar; 25A Lebuh tels.com; is handily placed and pretty vanilla. The The vanilla. is handily placed and pretty decor doesn’t in been seem changed to have clean is OK, since rooms are decades, which and comfortable. mansion, something like a cross between a mansion, something like traditional assembly hall and a Comfort Inn. as the lobby and as colourful Rooms aren’t serviceable.perfectly but they’re exterior, ate name switch to ‘Heritage’. And to be fair, And to to ‘Heritage’. name switch ate atmospheric Chinese is setthis hotel in a very of this spot clearly picked up on the marketing up on the marketing this spot clearly picked of the moment and made the appropri- of trend RM115; quieter and have views of the Cheong Fatt Tze Tze the Cheong Fatt views of and have quieter Bridge. Penang and the Mansion ing the experience of stayingin a decently ing the experience of high-rise. Rooms at the back are mid-market com.my; 7 Jln Penang; s/d from RM108/138; s/d from RM108/138; com.my; 7 Jln Penang; need- tower is good for travellers well-located els and staircase and tiled floors. There are 14 are els and staircase There floors. and tiled and varying sizes, rooms of simply furnished a compact, so it pays to check very some are deciding. before out few renovated, incorporating original features incorporating original features renovated, as the carvedsuch pan- ventilation wooden Segara Ninda r RM70-110; Penang; for RM7 a day. for RM7 MIDRANGE located, the rooms are large (if bland) and bland) and (if large rooms are the located, wi-fi in-room There’s comfy. are the beds Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Gurney; r from RM295; .my; 105 Jln Penang; r from RM120; .my; 105 Jln Penang; old villa was once the town residence of Ku Ku of once the town residence old villa was and timber merchant a wealthy Din Ku Meh, what is now south- colonial administrator in has beenern Thailand. His home tastefully of Jln Penang and Lebuh Leith, the Oriental Jln Penang of Bayview pretty much tops out the corporate- much Bayview pretty PENANG great too. Located bythe Hotel.Star aclean,clearsoup.Theroastpork isenough, with ricesoftened byarich gravy and,often concealing firm, juicy fleshbelow,served and roasted skin, duckwitha crisp,sweet exactly whatitsoundslike: lovingly seasoned duck-rice intown.Fortherecord, duck-riceis able reputation asoneof thebestproviders of Cheong Fatt (Jln Tze)Carnarvon hasanenvi- RM3-6; rice noodles) and chicken-rice. locals chatting over bowls of and ratherfrayedcoffee shop,alwaysfullof from RM2.50; up. order that’s crowded,askalocalwhat’sgoodand listed below, goforawander,findplace all here. So,inadditiontotryingtheplaces Georgetown thatit’simpossibletocover them There are restaurants somanyChinese in CHINESE all around the island. with specialwhite noodlesinstreet stalls taste fromtamarind laksa , orPenang afish soupwithasour laksa, One of themostfamouslocaldishesis 192 Jit Seng Duck Rice Duck Rice Jit Seng EngLoh Kafeteria .cheongfatttzemansion.com; 14Lebuh.cheongfatttzemansion.com; Leith; rfromRM250; main houseandtwoinsmallerbuildingsthesurroundinggardens,whichincludealovelypool. restored BrothershadtheirfirsthomeinPenang, 1920smansionhasfivesuites:three inthe thisexpertly the Sarkies Clove Hall China Tiger 110 ArmenianSt ing ourresearch: is available. fromwhichthegreatestcourtyard time youleave stuff. you’llrealise it’spowerful The houseisarrangedaroundaplant-filled central atmospheric boutiqueheritagehotels. Even ifyoudon’thave acluewhatfeng shuiis,bythe Laurence Loh,whoserestoration ofthe lovers scrutiniseoneofthemostuniqueurbanlandscapesinMalaysia. houses andmansionshave beensnappedupandfoughtover asbothsavvyinvestors andheritage Ever sinceGeorgetown’s inscriptionon Unesco’s WorldHeritagelistin2008,dilapidated shop- THE BUSINESSOFHERITAGE the street, as well as a shop stocking arty localproducts. arty the street, aswellashopstocking housesacross more hotel-styleroomsinarowofyet-to-be-converted Zone. Theownerisplanningonaddingseveral ai and guests have access to a serene courtyard. Next door, an art gallery isplanned. door,anart Next and guestshaveaccesstoaserene courtyard. decoratesthewalls, art byspiralstaircases,original are connected Thetwolevels two suites,butthey’re wonderful. EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown The followingrecommended boutique were open,orabouttodur-heritage properties Several private investors have followedtheleadestablishedover adecadeagobyarchitect h noon-3pm) ) Beautifully restored three-bed shophouse in a rapidly gentrifying but still authentic part of the Heritage oftheHeritage butstillauthenticpart shophouseinarapidlygentrifying ) Beautifullyrestored three-bed h ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % 229 0818;www.clovehall.com;11CloveHallRd;dRM500; This hawker onLebuh stall 012-501 5360; www.tigerrock.info; 25Lebuh China;dRM950; 012-501 5360;www.tigerrock.info; ( (cnr Jln Gereja &Lebuh(cnr JlnGereja Penang; mains

% ( % (asam) 262 2172; 246 Lebuh Carnarvon; 262 2172;246Lebuh Carnarvon; 955 1688; www.bontonresort.com.my; 110ArmenianSt;d/house fromRM900/1200; 955 1688;www.bontonresort.com.my; paste. It’s served paste. It’sserved kway teow A very simple chi energy emanates. Eachroomisuniquelythemed.Wi-fi (broad asam Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion

Take of whatyouwantfrom theselection the placetogoforafillingmeat-free lunch. Sat) Lebuh China;mealsaroundRM4; sits inthe middleof thegreatest concentration h vegetables variety.Italsoserves fish curry mostly vegetarian foodof thetofu andgreen placeforcheap and A popularself-service mealsaroundRM5; Dickens; know he’sdoing something right. yeartopromoteevery ,soyou Pin’s ownertoAdelaideinAustralia Kheng asitishere.right, government Thestate sends easy tomuckupandsogoodwhenexecuted chicken andricecooked inchicken – The latter isdeceptively simple–steamed rice, oneof thegreat fastfoodsof Asia. East dipped inblackgravy) andHainan chicken- (spiced groundporkwrappedinbeancurd cialities localsswearby,mostfamously 3pm, closedMon) it downwithaglassof tea. Chinese offer, andyou’llbecharged accordingly. Wash vegetables, curriesanddifferent beancurdson a Hui Sin Vegetarian Restaurant Restaurant Hui SinVegetarian Sky Hotel Sky Hotel Food BengVegetarian Ee Kheng Pin Kheng This excellent value buffet restaurant Thisexcellentvaluebuffet is 11.30am-2.30pm) ) resulted inoneofthecountry’smost ( % ais (80 JlnPenang; mainsfromRM4; Thishawker hasafew stand spe- 262 2322;348Lebuh Chulia;aroundRM6; ai

It’s incredible thatthisgem (see p185 ; ) Standingonlandwhere h ) Thisplacesoffers just h breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % % breakfast &lunchMon- lonelyplanet.com 262 5289;www 262 9161;20Lebuh ( % 262 1443;11 h lorbak 7am-

PENANG

If mee 193 262 9161; 262 9161; % ( lunch & dinner) lunch & dinner) lunch & dinner) Popular food h h Located in a grand in a grand Located 264 4767; 216 Jln Penang; mains 264 4767; 216 Jln Penang; % ( (102 Jln Burma; (164 Lebuh Campbell; mains from RM3; (164 Lebuh

There’s lots of halal food avail- lots of There’s For a slightly more refined take take refined For a slightly more 227 3368; 124 Jln Burma; mains from RM9; 262 0263; 132 Jln Penang; mains from RM14; mains Penang; 262 0263; 132 Jln breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, % % ( , a crepe-esque dish filled with beef dish , a crepe-esque ( h lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) lunch & dinner) lunch & dinner) Hot Wok Restoran Minang Nasi Padang Hammediyah Kayu Nasi Kandar Maharaj to the island’s proximity to Thailand. These to the island’s proximity days, though, true Nonya cuisine is becoming a bit are harder to find and the restaurants the way. out of h from RM4; curry, including fish and Indian dishes, Malay options. vegetarian and in town for the best restaurant Considered rice buffet of food, essentially a large Padang that you scoop selected meats and vegeta- veg , bles onto – think fried fish, the like. and paste in chilli cooked NONYA was and Singapore, Melaka like Penang, Chinese, or the Straits-born the home of Baba-Nonya, who combined Chinese and traditions, especially in their kitchens. Malay fiery due Nonya cuisine is a tad more Penang’s you’re nervousyou’re food, this is about eating street stalls of hawker The famous the place to come. into this flash Swatow Lane been moved have street the Malaysian of gems where pavilion, in a sanitized, almost mall-like prepped are Laughingatmosphere. families and friends all line up (seriously line up) for curry h all the locals but you, like able in the kitchen, without trying the leave in line, shouldn’t cuisine is on offer at this smart restaurant in smart restaurant at this is on offer cuisine tra- out with townhouse, decked a restored ditional carvings is and paintings. The feed dining expect at a fine Indian what you would city. Western establishmenta in h dark and meal, hit up the on your banana-leaf serves which fine cui- some Maharaj, intimate Pradesh, focus on Andhra sine with a regional spicy south. Nadu, India’s and Tamil Kerala MALAY New World Park soup soup), fishball (noodles in a curry-like and other specialties, served under indisput- conditions. safe ably clean and minced onions. and 92 Transfer Rd; meals around RM5; 92 Transfer court–style place serving and tasty cheap up

263 263 break- % ( h breakfast, breakfast, siew bak siew (flat, sour h Very busy res- Very There’s all kinds There’s Top-notch Indian Top-notch (honey-sweetened pan mee (unleavened flaky flat flaky flat (unleavened 264 4204; www.sriananda 263 0306; 11 Lebuh Leith; Leith; 263 0306; 11 Lebuh (150 Jln Macalister; mains 885 1469; 48 Jln Penang; mains 885 1469; 48 Jln Penang; ( canai filled with % 264 1191; 93 Lebuh Chulia; mains 264 1191; 93 Lebuh % ( (

% ( % ( . It is incumbent on you to . It is incumbent lunch & dinner) (barbecued pork), (barbecued PENANG •• Georgetown roti canai canai roti When you’ve hit the sauce hit the too When you’ve Basic Indian eatery, seemingly Basiceatery, Indian siew cheong siew h Sigh murtabak One of the best bets for veg- the One of dinner & late night) (half fat, half lean) to get that that lean) to get (half fat, half breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, 24hr) h h h char siew char Passage ThruPassage India Khaleel Restaurant Sri Ananda Bahwan Madras New Woodlands Restaurant Restoran Kapitan Yi Garden Coffee Shop mains from RM12; the chow is just as good sober as sloshed. is just as good sober the chow house that is consistently packed with happy, with happy, house packed that is consistently fact, In point of customers. masticating Tamil from RM4; always Khaleel, a 24-hour curry hard, there’s meat or vegetables). There’s an air-con dining an air-con There’s meat or vegetables). comfort. more hall if you prefer doori chicken, doori chicken, and bread) fast, lunch & dinner) locals, serving chatting full of forever up tan- bahwan.com; 55 Lebuh Penang; mains from RM3; bahwan.com; Penang; 55 Lebuh North Indian specialities, including lots of North Indian specialities, including lots of traditional sweets. etarians offers tasty banana-leaf meals and etarians offers from RM3; stalls in this area offer cheap North and South cheap offer stalls in this area Indian food. around town. Several and small restaurants especially along Lebuh Pasar and Lebuh and Lebuh especially along Lebuh Pasar servingPenang, up curries, roti, tandoori all scattered and . Other places are INDIAN INDIAN eating places, with cheap Little India is replete with children – in case you were worried about worried about – in case you were with children road. the bug off any kind of catching much a Georgetowner hangout, this is the hangout, a Georgetowner much mothers of food that attracts lots street kind of locals, some of the best locals, some of in town. Very omelettes noodles) and oyster from RM6; that serve, stalls here hawker according to of proper combination of slightly wet and firm of proper combination roasted goodness. (pork belly), (pork belly), pork roast duck. Order your pork) and pun fei sau thusiastic numbers) by locals. People – what’s by locals. People thusiastic numbers) happening? of travellers in Georgetown, yet is somehow somehow yet is Georgetown, in travellers of patronised en- (in huge, exclusively almost try the lonelyplanet.com 9764; 60 Lebuh Penang; mains from RM3; Penang; 9764; 60 Lebuh lunch & dinner) taurant specialising in tandoori chicken and taurant specialising in tandoori chicken and mutton curries. biryani, along with fish too. tea, They do a mean masala PENANG Jln Nagore; mainsfromRM12; buffet RM42,dinnerbuffet fromRM58; casual. smart butdon’tforgetSaturday evenings, todress barandlivea cocktail jazz onFridayand ingredients); Itoffers it’sallvery goodstuff. of Asian fusion(mainlyintheformof local menu isupscalehaute French withatouch mansion. The located inanelegantseaside ing inthecityoccurs atthisgenteel restaurant mains fromRM40; enough. posh style/design store, theostrich wasn’t incase fried ostrich. Thespacealsodoublesasalife- including ‘hazelnutfishandchips’ andstir- some interesting Western andAsian dishes, tablecloths provide achic atmosphere for artworksandcrisplinen background, Oriental h as it is intimate. offer inacosyspacethat’sascontemporary damn finethin-crustEuropean-stylepizzaon lar withhiplocalsandtravellers, there issome for thesmall-mindednessitis.Equallypopu- packer land,butEccoshows upourprejudice of pizzaintheheartof aplaceselling back- h towards the E&O Hotel. of section JlnPenangdestrianised leadingup restaurants andcoffee bars ontheshortpe- There’s aconcentration of smartWestern WESTERN J-pop. loud about inpinkmaidandschoolgirl outfitsto surreal restaurant, where thewaitresses prance Japanesederous set lunches inthisvaguely RM15; Koyotei Kissa JAPANESE kapitan authenticNonyafood–trythe sample thisisagreat household, placeto Chinese Mon, dinneronlyTue) and the upscale butispretty reasonably priced.Try Nonya mansion,thisrestaurant feels slightly 194 tik gravy). thick Thirty Two Thirty o Sarkies Corner Sarkies Opera Ecco Cafe lunch &dinner,closedSun) lunch &dinner) otak-otak sambal sotong EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown h ( (chicken curry)or lunch &dinner) % Nyonya Baba Cuisine Nyonya BabaCuisine ( % 263 2893;3EJlnPenang; mainsfromRM18; ( ( % % (fishwrappedinbananaleaves) h ( 262 3178;402Lebuh Chulia;fromRM15; Cool jazzmurmuringinthe % 226 6272;148JlnHutton;mainsfrom 262 2232; 32 Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah; 262 2232;32JlnSultanAhmadShah; Located inabeautifulold dinner) 222 2000;10Lebuh Farquhar; lunch (chilli squid). Get goodsushi and pon- Get We’d normallybewary Some of thefinestdin- h hong bak lunch &dinnerWed- h ( % lunch &dinner) 227 8035;44 (porkin curry has aconcentrationof Western-style cafes Chulia Lebuh evening. around townevery karaoke –isthere a better combination? offersContinental foodandcheesy upstall theRedGardenbehindHoteland atnight packed withcheap andcheerful goodness, cious Penang specialities.GurneyDrive is deli- breezes astheMalay serving sea stalls isgood,asmuch Food Centre fordelightful Esplanade logue inthisbook.Theseafront hawker butthere stalls, are toomanytocata- We’ve listed someof Georgetown’s best QUICK EATS dress code(noT-shirts, shorts or sandals). duck. Openfordinneronly,withasmart-casual androast sauce, basswithtruffle such assea excellentWestern cuisine, E&O Hotel serves h the gardenfromnoonto3pm Sunday. every in tea (RM46)isserved inyoursoul,high deep picky eater. Finally,forthenascentcolonialist can’t findsomethingyouwant,you’re avery menu items fromacrosstheglobe, andifyou up). Thelunch isgorgeous buffet –itplucks (you’llwanttodress and itsuniformlygoodstuff Asian toWestern tofusionthekitchen sink, day ofevery thefocusshifts from theweek; Sarkies offers different themed dinnerbuffets Ida food. Indian andMalayusual Chinese dishes, plussome allthe a anotherhawker centre serving ous fast-food outlets.Onthe5thfloorthere’s teas orcoffees (all only RM3). vive yourselfover apotof oneof itsinteresting group’s teachings isawonderful placetore- calm, thisoutletforaTaiwanese Buddhist RM3; scones, cookies and produces European-stylebaked treats such as ery, runbytwinbrothers Jesse andJerry Tan, h at allhours, 365days a year. you willget very finecoffee (especiallyiced) is punishable bydeath, youcansafely assume asoneofforms of those custom,andseeing inoneofthis placesuggests ittraffics two mainsfrom RM3; Ahmad Shah; catering to backpackers. Komtar has asupermarketKomtar andnumer- Bakery Rainforest Mr Pot Smaller hawker congregations flashupall 1885 Jing-Si Books&Cafe dinner) 11am-7pm) h ( noon-8pm) % Theelegantmainrestaurant of the ( % 261 8333;10Lebuh Farquhar; mainsfromRM45; This darlinglittletake-away bak- 228-8303; cnrJlnPenang andJlnSultan Astylish oasisof spiritual

( %

( % 261 4641;300Lebuh Chulia; h 261 6561;31Lebuh Pantai; 24hrs) lonelyplanet.com Thenameof PENANG 10am- 195 h 10am-6pm Mon- A small col- 261 2748; 440 Jln 261 2748; 440 Jln h % (

Anything old seems This jumbled-up little 262 6840; www.alpha-utara 262 0520; 449 Lebuh Chulia; Chulia; 262 0520; 449 Lebuh 261 4113; 58 Lebuh Kimberley;261 4113; 58 Lebuh % ( % (100 Lebuh Cintra) (100 Lebuh

% (

( 016-489 4511; 20 Lebuh Pitt; Pitt; 016-489 4511; 20 Lebuh This geodesic dome is one is one dome geodesic This Penang’s best gallery displays Penang’s This interesting outlet sells outlet sells This interesting % ( 11am-6pm Mon-Sat) (Komtar)

h The hours aren’t exact, but the fortunate exact, but the fortunate aren’t The hours 10am-8.30pm) 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Bee Chin Heong 100 Cintra Street Auntie Sim Oriental Arts & Antiques Dome for instance, will apparently be engaged by 30 be engaged for instance, will apparently Go figure. smart.’ and is ‘not very h reli- a colourful, bewildering assortment of supplies; and temple gious statues, furniture lection of antique stalls occupies the ground lection of this old building. One sells only floor of drinking glasses, sell others porcelain and informa- knick-knacks. For more assorted . p186 see this place, tion about & CRAFTS ARTS Alpha Utara Gallery China; admission free; .com; 83 Lebuh Sat, noon-5pm Sun) son Khoo Hoe Sui native and the work of Eatonother excellent local artists like Tam Pa. Ke and Dom 6pm) cards, of might be: Auntie Sim is a reader This author, palms, your face and the fates. is Penang Pewter, a rather more affordable a rather more Pewter, is Penang Royal Selangor the better-known of version equal quality. though of Pewter, ANTIQUES Lean Giap Trading h goods, including sells a miscellany of store porcelain and Oriental furniture, silverware, got some high It’s glass. stuff quality among around but you need to poke the shelves, background knowledge. with a fair bit of Penang; has a selectionto end up in this place, which jewellery, toys and furniture, porcelain, of general bric-a-brac. still hosts some pretty good rock shows and and good rock shows pretty still hosts some acts. live other Shopping shop, with plenty is a good place to Penang as local crafts and antiques for outlets of at competi- well as cameras and electronics prices, although KL has a wider range. tive except in de- usually required, is Bargaining is the best shop- Jln Penang partment stores. A good souvenir in Georgetown. ping street of those structures that looked dated the the dated that looked those structures of but, in any case, finished it was it minute

Pitt Pitt If you’ve If you’ve Colonial Colonial noon-midnight) Seemingly h (94 Lebuh Pitt) (94 Lebuh Hip bar with a laid- (The Garage, 2 Jln Penang) (10 Lebuh Farquhar) (10 Lebuh (50A Jln Penang; (50A Jln Penang; PENANG •• Georgetown 261 2126; 8 Pengkalan Weld) Pitt Street Corner Pitt Street Corner (92 Lebuh Gereja) (92 Lebuh

261 1066; The Garage, 2 Jln Penang) % (

% (

QEII B@92 Slippery Senoritas Soho Free House Farquhar’s Bar Farquhar’s o house grooving over the waterfront views. waterfront the over house grooving able pizza and better ambience; this spot usu- able pizza and better and slow funk ally snags a good DJ who keeps surrounded by the Straits, QEII serves pass- counter ear-splitting bass, big lights, lots of bass, big lights, lots of ear-splitting counter hair and ladies in guys with slicked smoke, the drill. You know little dresses. while travelling in Malaysia, here’s a taste of of a taste here’s in Malaysia, while travelling en- you’ll been Here missing. what you’ve Glo longing for superclubs/meat markets been Entertainment Entertainment back attitude that features some live acts and some live back attitude that features and – expat – and mixed large hosts a pretty an atmosphere well-to-do locals crowd. Has between pub, American a British somewhere music venue. bar and small chain and it’s popular with Western expats and the and it’s popular with Western them (or is that the other who love Malaysians way round?). Vaguely Spanish-style bar that has occasional Spanish-style Vaguely code is smart casual music. The dress live some nights. over two floors serving, two floors Malaysia’s over allegedly, draught selection It shows beers. biggest of TVs sports on satellite live on Saturday way rowdy in an expat sort of and gets Rather dimly-lit British-style pub spread out out Rather pub spread dimly-lit British-style try its signature drink, the Eastern & the Eastern drink, & try its signature Oriental brought Sling (RM16.50) by to you barman. white-coated a British-style bar inside the E&O Hotel, serv-the E&O Hotel, British-style bar inside ing beer, pub food and cocktails; traditional few rounds of pool. While we imagine women rounds of few we never saw any fine here, would be treated our visits. inside the bar on any of watch some football and Bollywood and sink a some football and Bollywood watch Street Corner feels like the offspring of a hip- the offspring of like feels Corner Street in bar crossedster with a sports pub plunked isn’t but it sure Nadu. It’s not a dive Tamil Basically, it’s a friendly spot for either. posh, sink some beer, together, guys to get Tamil which seemswhich close to whenever the last person passes out. it’s not terribly cheap and places tend to shut to shut places tend and cheap terribly it’s not exception is Blue Diamond, by 11pm. The Drinking Drinking serve hostels the backpacker Most of beer, but lonelyplanet.com PENANG cosmetics, household goods cosmetics, household and suchlike. Parkson Grand,withawiderange of clothes, rants, includingsmarter chain stores such as ahuge number ofhouses shops and restau- Shamdas wasdubbed‘Sam’byAmerican Lebuh Armenian; eeya goods. everyday andelectronics tofrom clothes,shoes with hundreds of everything shopsselling cafes. simple are and secondhand-book stalls clothesstalls, with lotsof fruitondisplay.Upstairs there market hallisfullof downstairs, foodstalls Bazaar Chowraster SHOPPING CENTRES on aBollywood video set? guys goingtofindtopsthatcouldfitthemin and Indianfabricsfashions;where are else batikshirts place intownforbuyingsarongs, soldiers, alegend wasborn.Thisisthebest house.com; 159Penang St) days in advance. RM50 forabout one hour. Bookatleasttwo ing workshops canbearranged here, costing stocks thecurrent range, andpewter-mak- The topnameinMalaysian pewter. Thisoutlet be had here. andkeyrings tea caddies,vases can tankards, alternative toRoyalSelangor. Decorative pewterRenaissance isanother,much cheaper, Jln Penang; batik. and jewellery,porcelain,crystal woodcarvings, one of thebestranges intown.Italsosells looking forpewter products,thisplacehas h etc. architecture, excellent photographyof Penang street scenes, (www.studiohoward.com), which showcases buildingisStudioHoward Also inthesame creations of Penang artistWongKeng Fuan. theexquisitegallery showcases fused-glass worth a look round. to come. Even ifyou’re notbuying, it’sstill woodBuddha,thisistheplace carved 2m-tall hold shrine orhave RM55,000tospendona if you’re after ahuge couch, ahouse- Chinese 196 Komtar Sam’s BatikHouse Pewter Royal Selangor Pewter Renaissance Fuan Wong Prangin Mall Mall Prangin Hong GiapHang 10am-8pm Mon-Sat,11am-5pmSun) EAG • ereon PENANG ••Georgetown h (Jln Penang) (Jln 10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) ( h % (Jln Penang) (Jln 11am-6pm Mon-Sat)

262 9079;www.fuanwong.com; 88 ( (Jln Penang) (Jln %

( Avastmodernmall % 261 3288;193-195JlnPenang; ( Whenthelate Mr % ( % Adjoins Komtar and AdjoinsKomtar 261 8528;http://samsbatik 264 5410; the Garage, 2 264 5410;theGarage, 263 6742;30Lebuh Light) Thisshabby old Locally made This small Ifyou’re

RM1.20/60, with free returns. 263 1398; www.langkawi-ferry.com; PPCBldg,Pesara 263 1398;www.langkawi-ferry.com; King These land in Belawan, andthejourneyto landinBelawan, These but theboatsareopen seats, allthesame. will bookyouintowhichever companyhas ice toMedan inSumatra. Travel agencies Sultan Ahmad Shah, Sultan AhmadShah, Georgetown) Ahmad Shah, Ahmad Shah, Georgetown) less competitive tobe. For thantheyused tickets, international although airfares are Penang isamajor centre forcheap airline International Flights 500RM or more. with justtaxes) andothers as expensive as ering aslow38RM(that’sbasicallyfree you book,withsomefares (foralltowns)hov- Prices varydependingonhowfarinadvance Penang andLangkawi. andKL,Johor Bahru There are dailyconnectionsbetween several AirwaysInternational Thai 42JlnSultanAhmadShah, Gardens, Georgetown) Airlines Singapore Airlines Malaysia Firefly Pacific Cathay AirAsia Airline Offices stakes. threw itshatintotheAsia budget airlines In 2007Firefly outofAirlines, based Penang, AIR Getting There&Away cid RM60/100). child day(oneway/return9am every RM110/180, leaves bothSumatraandGeorgetown at sometimes aslong asfive orsix).Theferry about4¼hoursprice), usuallytaking (but Medan iscompleted bybus(includedinthe Pesara Edward) King Edward) ( and from5.30amto1amthe ( minutes) fromButterworth to ferries 15 run(atleastevery Eight constantly BOAT p182. see long-running, reliable agents inGeorgetown, Domestic Flights Central, 142JlnBurma, Georgetown) % % Both 210 2363,islandferry) 310 2377,mainlandferry) and ( ( % % Langkawi Ferry Service Langkawi 250 2000;Komtar,Penang Rd,Georgetown) 261 5642;332Lebuh Chulia,Georgetown) Ekspres Bahagia Ekspres ( % ( operate ashared ferry serv- % ( 226 0411; Menara Boustead,39Jln 226 0411;Menara % 217 6321/3/6;38JlnSultan . Thefare isadult/child 226 3201;WismaPenang from6amto12.30am ( %

( % 226 6000;Wisma lonelyplanet.com

(LFS; 263 1943;PPCBldg, Pulau Penang % 264 3088, island

PENANG . is 197 643 4411) % (PEN;

238 1313; www.rapidpg.com.my) % ( Taxis take about 45 minutes from the cen- about 45 minutes take Taxis motorcycles RM2. Return is free. motorcycles RM2. Return BUS as opposed in Kuala Lumpur, the federal, As runs the locals air-con- government, to state ditioned bus service under the auspices of Rapid Penang 18km south of Georgetown. There’s a coupon There’s Georgetown. 18km south of to for taxissystem from the airport. The fare is RM40. Georgetown at least an town, while the bus takes of tre Bus 83 runs to and from the Yellow hour. airport (RM1.50) hourly from 6am to 9pm, Weld, Komtar with stops along Pengkalan Lebuh Chulia. and BOAT and Butterworth between Georgetown Ferries run roughly from 6am to every 20 minutes from Georgetown 12.30am; boats leave 15 min- 5.30am to 1am. The journey takes is RM1.20/60 sen; fare The adult/child utes. cost RM7.70 (depending on the size), cars to hold responsible. However, you might However, you might to hold responsible. at the if you buy directly tickets cheaper get bus station. Getting Around by linked are and Penang Seberang Perai service. and a 24-hour ferry road-bridge served by bus, and trishaws is well Georgetown around the a popular way to get ) are p198 (see to other Buses from Georgetown city centre. and getting less frequent the island are parts of around the island by road is easiest with your own transport. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT InternationalPenang Airport including Hat Yai (RM35); Phuket (RM61 (RM61 Phuket (RM35); Yai Hat including Ko to RM90); (RM88 Ko Pipi to RM70); and evenSamui (RM80); (RM105 thoughto RM120), and the it’s a long haul comfortable. The minibuses more train is a lot you’ll to some destinations; don’t go directly vehicle of for a change be dumped probably with or Surat Thani, sometimes Yai in Hat buy to times. It’s better significant waiting from a guesthouse that contracts your ticket of instead agency, with a minibus directly on Lebuh Then, shops Chulia. from bucket your minibus showing up two in the case of someone have or not at all, you late, hours 261 7933; 35-36 Pengkalan % (

PENANG •• Georgetown is a major agent. major is a Many long-distance buses in the depart Many Many more buses leave from across the from across the buses leave more Many From Sungei Nibong there are several daily are Nibong there From Sungei The samefer- run daily also two companies Alor Setar Cameron Highlands Ipoh Johor Bahru RM23.50-28 Kota Bharu Kuala Lumpur RM6.30 Kuala Kuala Kuantan RM49 Lumut RM10.70 RM27.90-35 RM27-60 Melaka RM40-53 Singapore RM9-13 Taiping Tapah RM43 RM14.90 RM36.20 RM53 RM11.35 RM40 Destination Fare also bus and minibus services to Thailand, From the bus station at Komtar, there are are From the bus station at Komtar, there evening. Typical one-way fares: evening. Typical one-way also leave from other parts of Georgetown. Georgetown. from other parts of also leave Newsia Tours & Travel channel in Butterworth next to the mainland in Butterworth channel long-distance buses and a few terminal, ferry Rata in the Cameron Highlands (RM23.50 to prices are RM28). Please that the above note to change. especially subject Terengganu and elsewhere – book well in – book well in and elsewhere Terengganu daily buses to Tanah five are There advance. buses to KL (RM27 to RM60), as well as less Kuala buses Melaka, to Kotafrequent Bharu, You can also take a 303 or 401/401A bus from You can also take (RM2). Georgetown Komtar mall in central cost around RM25 from central Georgetown. central Georgetown. cost around RM25 from Chulia sell tickets, it’s generally safer to buy safer it’s generally Chulia sell tickets, at the bus company offices at them in person bus station to the express the station. Taxis the south of Penang Bridge. Although travel Although travel Bridge. Penang the south of guesthouses on Lebuh agents, and hotels BUS BUS Long-distance bus services from the ex- leave Nibong, just to bus station on Jln Sungei press age (see p188 ). Boats return from Langkawi). Boats return p188 (seeage days in 5.30pm. Book a few at 2.30pm and a seat. advance to ensure Payar first, but you won’t be able to disembark but you won’t be able first, Payar pack- or snorkelling on a diving you’re unless ries from Georgetown to Kuah on Langkawi to Georgetown ries from RM45/85, RM60/115, child (one way/return at 8.30am and Boats leave 1¾ to 2½ hours). second8.45am; the service calls in at Pulau lonelyplanet.com Weld) PENANG Hawk Avis Georgetown: worth tryingfor special deals. agents, themaincompanies are though also rentals. Gooddealscanbefound atsmaller per dayplusinsurance,butdropfor longer automatic car. ataroundRM100 start Rates an for weekends andholidaysorifyouneed inadvance,especially probably have toreserve Penang’s aneasyplacetorent acar,butyou’ll Rental return. to toll plazaonthemainland,butnocharge the island,there’s aRM7tollpayable atthe in Asia at13.5km.Ifyoudrive acrossto Penang Bridge isoneof thelongest bridges CAR out the window. driver didn’tmindifpassengers smoked tobethatthethe onlydifference seemed The fares Penang; were similartoRapid duringresearch. publicbuses ditioned state able toridesomeof theolder,non-aircon- Penangplaced bytheRapid wewere fleet, theyareAlthough beingre- supposedly Butterworth Batu Ferringhi Teluk Bahang Penang Hill LokSi Kek TempleSnake are listed below: JlnPenang)Razak, incentralGeorgetown (KompleksTunAbdulprices fromKomtar Popularroutesrides foroneweek. and a RM20‘passport’thatprovides unlimited ternational touristsshould beable tobuy than RM3.Bythetimeyouread this,in- mum RM4;mosttripsshouldn’t costmore its ferry points. with manyconcentrated atGeorgetown and website. There are stopsallaroundthestate, Penangdaily, butcheck aheadattheRapid to 45minutes, usuallyfrom6amto11pm tendner/route-maps. 20 torunevery Buses found atwww.rapidpg.com.my/journey-plan- the mainland;acomprehensive mapcanbe into 34routes connecttheentire islandand colour-codedEight ‘corridors’ furtherdivided 198 There are manycar-hire companies in Fares are aminimumRM1.40,maxi- ( % EAG • rudteIln PENANG ••AroundtheIsland ( % 643 9633;Penang International Airport) 201/203;RM2 881 3886;Penang International Airport) 204; RM2 (viaPenang 704and Megamall) 701; RM4.8 101;RM2.50 302/401/401E;RM2.70 101;RM2 town there inabout 15 minutes). Chulia should cost RM10(oryoucanwalk nal, atrishaw tothe hotel area around Lebuh drivers willhailyou!Fromtheferry termi- finding atrishaw –more often thannot,the before departure. Youwon’thave anytrouble tomakeportant sure youagree onthefare it’sim- RM30 perhour–but,aswithtaxis, Georgetown’s backstreets andcostaround Bicycle rickshaws are anidealwaytonegotiate TRISHAW and Penang International Airport (RM35). Lok SiTemple (RM40), (RM35) Gardens (RM40),Penang HillFunicular/Kek Ferringhi(RM15), Batu (RM45),Botanical fromGeorgetowntaxi includePulauTikus by serviced RM6 toRM12.Outlyingsights Typicalfaresoff. aroundtowncost meters, so negotiate thefare before you set Penang’s drivers taxi their flatlyrefuse touse TAXI insurance probably won’t cover you. don’t have amotorcyclelicence,yourtravel off onamotorcycle,justremember thatifyou heading atRM30perday.Before cycles start It costsRM10torent abicycle,andmotor- Ferringhi. Chulia,oroutatBatu along Lebuh including travellers’ andshops guesthouses You canhire bicyclesfrommanyplaces, MOTORCYCLE &BICYCLE Hertz Penang Hill (Map p176 ) Rising 821mabove Georgetown, thetopof Penang Hill(Bukit Bendera) side. western much quieter furtheraroundontheisland’s airport iscongested andbuiltup,butitgets Theroadtothe around theislandclockwise. The route takes youfromGeorgetown north-coast roadrunsbesidethe beaches. day. all freshment stops.Ifyou’re onabicycle,allow five andre- hours, withplentyof sightseeing by motorcycleorcar,plantospendabout circle thewholeislandbybus.Iftravelling motorcycle orbicycle,butit’snotpossibleto You canmake acircuitof theislandbycar, AROUND THEISLAND It’s 70kmallthewayround,butonly the ( % Penang InternationalAirport 263 5914;38Lebuh Farquhar) provides a coolretreat ( % lonelyplanet.com 643 0209); George- PENANG 199 whisks 9am-6pm) 9am-9pm) 9am-9pm) h lunch & dinner h 828 8337; info 828 8337; h % ( vegetarian restau-

(Map p176 ; (one-way/return RM4/2) temple (Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda; admis- (Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda; 828 8142; mains from RM5; , the seven-tier, 30m-high tower that . A cable-car % Ban Po Thar ( The energetic can take one of the walking one of can take The energetic To reach the entrance, walk through a the entrance, walk through a To reach David Brown’s RestaurantDavid @penanghillco.com.my; mains from RM15; mains from @penanghillco.com.my; Tue-Sun) by over you to the highest level, presided an awesome 36.5m-high bronze statue of Kuan Yin mercy. Sixteen highly , goddess of bronze columns will eventually decorated the statue, and 1000 over support a roof its two-decade long construction (and ongo- both stands ing additions). The temple atop and is carved Air Itam, near into the slope of Penang Hill. stalls, past a tightly souvenir packed maze of turtle pond and murky fish ponds, until you you’ll the complex, where the heart of reach find sion RM2) Lok Si. The design is said Kek is the ‘face’ of to be Burmese Chinese at the top, at the bot- tom and Thai in between. In another three- Thai Buddha a large shrine, there’s storey by King Bhumibol that was donated image several other temples are Thailand. There of well as shops and a as here, rant at Stesen Bukit Bendera. From Air Itam, walk railway station. to the funicular minutes five in Georgetown terminal A taxi from the ferry is RM40. to the funicular station Gardens. trails to/from the Botanical Kek Lok Si Temple is also the Bliss’ Supreme of The ‘Temple largest Buddhist the most recognis- and one of in Malaysia able buildings in the country, in its way as as the the national iconography a part of much and the orang-utan. Built by Towers Petronas an immigrant Chinese in 1890, Kek Buddhist the Malay-Chinese of Lok Si is a cornerstone the funding for community, who provided occupies a hillock on Penang Hill once set hillock on Penang occupies a Lightaside by Francis planting. for strawberry (of Anglophone Malay-Chinese Run by an serves restaurant course), the steak-and-kid- ney pies, Beef bubble and squeak Wellington, though; trout. No pork bacon, and rainbow in Malaysia. still we’re GETTING THERE & AWAY From Komtar, or along Lebuh Chulia, you Rt 204 Rapid the frequent one of can catch buses station (RM2) to the funicular Penang walk- aviary aviary featuring featuring 829 9500; pen- is the only is the only % ( 9am-6pm) h inside the station displays Bellevue Hotel PENANG •• Around the Island (one way/return RM15/30, every 30 (one way/return (admission free) (adult/child RM4/2; If you’re fit, a number of roads and fit, a number of If you’re The 11-room Efforts to make it a popular hill resort were were Efforts hill resort it a popular to make Penang Hill was first cleared by Captain cleared was first Hill Penang nice for a hilltop drink and a small garden a little frayed at the edges and very over- and very a little frayed at the edges that’s restaurant has a priced. The hotel place to stay here, but while the garden offers but while the garden offers place to stay here, it’s Georgetown, some splendid views over [email protected]; s & d RM179, f RM219) [email protected]; p200 ) in about three hours from the trail near hours ) in about three p200 the upper funicular station. The easier Jeep track from the top also leads to the gardens, A signboard on the just beyond Moon Gate. hill shows walking trails going as far as Teluk and Bahang, not well marked but these are not recommended. traverse the hill; you can walk the ing trails traverse 5.5km to the Botanical Gardens (Moon Gate; wealthy citizens. Queues on weekends and wealthy citizens. Queues on weekends public holidays can be annoyingly long, with 30 minutes. up to waits of utes, with a change of carriages at the halfway carriages of with a change utes, point. On the way, you pass the bungalows originally built for British officials and other some photographs and oddments from those and some photographs crawling 30 min- a early days. The trip takes to 11.30pm Saturday) was completed. A tiny to 11.30pm Saturday) was completed. museum funicular Sunday to Friday, 6.30am to 9.30pm minutes thwarted by difficult at- thwarted access, and the first at a mountain begun in 1897, tempt railway, In 1923 a Swiss-built to be a failure. proved The official name of the hill was FlagstaffThe official name of Hill as Bukit Bendera),(now translated but it is Hill. Penang known as universally from the Botanical Gardens waterfall and ac- from the Botanical Gardens waterfall cess was by foot, packhorse or sedan chair. grow strawberries (it was originally known as grow strawberries (it was to the top was opened Strawberry Hill). A trail Light soon after British settlementLight British soon after in order to at the upper funicular station. At the top are funicular station.at the upper the top are At Hindu decorated an exuberantly temple and a is wonderful at dusk as Hill mosque. Penang light up. far below, starts to Georgetown, side, a hotel, police station police office and post side, a hotel, summit there’s a spectacular view over the a spectacular over view summit there’s are There to the mainland. island and across with one a simple food court, some gardens, show out- on kept the original cable-cars of from the sticky heat below, being generally being generally below, the sticky heat from than at sea5°C cooler about level. the From lonelyplanet.com exotic birds. PENANG has some beautifullyfurnished chalets anda rRM182-450; www.jerejakresort.com; by the and aprisoninits time,andistodayoccupied hometoalepercolony island thathasbeen coast, Pulau Jerejak isathickly forested private Lying 1.5nauticalmilesoff Penang’s southeast Pulau Jerejak Malaysia. Sains from Georgetown (RM1.40) toUniversiti temporary Malaysian art and photography. pieces, andfascinatingcon- and Baba-Nonya fullgamelanorchestras), aboriginal several Indonesian musicalinstruments(including a collectionof traditionalMalaysian and 10am-1pmSat) 10am-12.15pm &2.45-5pmFri, p176; Malaysia, isthe the Six kilometres southof Georgetown, on sprawling campusof Universiti Sains Museum &ArtGallery to Teluk Bahang. to thetopof Penang Hill. cal trees, alllabelled inEnglish. Apathleads cactusgardenandnumeroustropi- house, bromeliad palmhouse, an orchid house, fine ifyou’re Withinthegroundsare caught. them; monkeys dobite, andthere’s aRM500 website aswell).Don’tbetempted tofeed around (they’ve taken over thewell-executed macaquesthatscamper the manylong-tailed dubbedtheMonkeyalso been Gardensfor cascades downfromPenang Hill.They’ve the Waterfall Gardens,after thestream that Rd; admissionfree; % The 30-hectare Botanical Gardens foot of the temple. tral Georgetown (RM2),atthe toAirItam Penanghop aRapid bus201/203fromcen- walk fromPenang Hill( p198 ), oryoucan as worshippers. Thetemple isabout a3km crowded withtouristsandshoppers asmuch the 12animalsof the zodiac. Chinese a fishpool,extensive of gardensandstatues to surround this area. of statues thegoddess2m-high are planned 200 It’s animpressive complex,though To get here totake a304bus you’llneed TransitLink bus202runspastontheway Also uphere are acouple more temples, 227 0428; www.penangbotanicgardens.gov.my; Waterfall % EAG • rudteIln PENANG ••AroundtheIsland Jerejak Resort & Spa Resort Jerejak 261 3144;admissionfree; h Museum and Art Gallery andArt Museum Botanical Gardens 5am-8pm)

Mp p176; (Map are alsoknown as h as 10am-5pm Sun-Thu, . Theresort %

) Mp p176; (Map . There’s 658 7111;

(Map (Map said to be slightly stoned by the incense smoke stonedbytheincense tobeslightly said Wagler’s pitvipers andgreen tree snakes are residentful patients.Theseveral venomous and wasbuiltin1850byoneof hisgrate- Chor SooKong,aBuddhistpriestandhealer, dopedup)snakes. It’sdedicatedseemingly to It’s justatemple withsomedopedup(or mad monkswieldingtrainedvipers…nah. virgins,coiled aroundlithesomesacrificial Temple’ andexpectbeatingdrums,pythons h Temple Snake airport. Notthatthere’s notsnakes inthe tination inPenang isabout 3kmbefore the Perhaps themostmisleadinglynameddes- Snake Temple Georgetown willcostaround RM50. (RM15). trail RM20). There’s alsoasuspension-bridge island includejungle-trekking (onehour, or one-hourbike rental, andactivitieson the snack, adult/child). Thepriceincludesalight leave twohours every roughly (RM20/16per Island, andday-trippers are welcome. Boats tobookthewhole will need dorm room. you with simpledoublesanddorms,though as alessluxurious‘adventure village’ complex footprint before catching abite to eatatBest anddropcoinsintothewater-filledhis statue the famousnavigator. praybefore Devotees print’ ontherock thatreputedly belonged to Sam Poh. ahuge Thetemple sanctifies ‘foot- legendary AdmiralChengHo,alsoknown as side temple here hasashrine dedicated tothe Batu Maung fishing villagethe turn-off totheChinese of About 3kmafter theSnake Temple, youreach Fishing Villages let off atthe Snake Temple. (RM2.70)andasktobe Lepas bus toBayan yourphotoholding for taking a snake. Persistent snake handlers willcharge RM30 various snakes, includingpythonsandcobras. exhibition around allthenextday.There’s asmall uptodoanythingbutlay them toomessed and apparently throwahuge party,leaving theyslitherdowntoeattheofferingsat night drifting aroundthetemple duringtheday,but spa offering variouskindsof aswell massage, No buses run past the jetty; a taxi from runpastthejetty;ataxi No buses The resort hasitsownjettyonPenang From Georgetown, take a302or401/401E 9am-6pm)

(adult/child RM5/3) . Butc’mon–youread ‘Snake (Map p176 ). Therenovated sea-

(Temple of the Azure Cloud; Map Cloud;Map oftheAzure (Temple p176 ; with tanks containing containing withtanks lonelyplanet.com snake snake

PENANG 227 was 201 % (Map p176 ;

is a must; it’s a tasty directly for more infor- for more directly Holy Name of Jesus Church and clove , , rubber , nutmeg, and clove cultivates over 140 types of 140 types of over cultivates Tropical Fruit Farm kampung 9am-6pm) laksa balik pulau, h About 2km further along the road to Teluk along the road to Teluk 2km further About You can reach Balik Pulau via bus Balik Pulau via bus You can reach Balik’s Catholic but no accommodation, or at least none of or at least none of but no accommodation, just walk you want to stay If here, out note. around with a smile on your face; locals have Sungai Pinang to Pantai Acheh Sungai Pinang to Pantai Acheh make it out this way. it out make Bahang, the 6223; native tropical and subtropical fruit trees, (RM25/17 and hybrid. The two-hour tours rice-noodle concoction in a thick fish-broth, rice-noodle concoction in a thick fish-broth, The town’s against the jungle behind. sively durian, of other claim to fame is its orchards trees. nutmeg and clove cost approximately 401/401E or 404 (tickets and Bayan Lepas, RM4) from Georgetown (RM3.40) and bus 501 from Batu Feringghi Si (RM2.70). Lok bus 502 from Kek Balik After Pulau you pass through an area Malay of durian plantations. Sungai Pinang, a busy and Chinese built along a stagnant river, village fishing village, an isolated Acheh, and Pantai both worth a peek, if only because you’ll are tourists few at; very back be peeked likely a habit of offering to put you up for the night. offering a habit of and the local spe- It’s a good place for lunch ciality, onions pineapple slivers, with mint leaves, chillies. fresh and stand impres- built in 1854, and its twin spires 04-250 5500; www.kopel.com.my) 04-250 5500; www.kopel.com.my) % ( , perched , perched (Map (Map p176 ), KOPEL 626 5142; Bukit Batu 9am-7pm) % h Teluk

(Map p176 ; PENANG •• Around the Island (Map p176 ), which has stalls has ), which on p176 (Map And now KOPEL is sponsoring nine homestays in villages scattered across rarely visited cor- visited across rarely in villages scattered is sponsoring nine homestays And now KOPEL of stay and number of visitors – check the vary hugely depending on season, length Rates

04 / pop 195,000 ners of Penang, including the oft-ignored mainland. This is a pretty incredible opportunity incredible for is a pretty mainland. This including the oft-ignored ners of Penang, in rapidly that is hard to grasp to connect to a way of life ‘old Asia’ those missing a sense of in tune with be living life Under the auspices of a KOPEL homestay you’ll modernising Malaysia. Besides the like. who may be rice farmers, catfish fishermen and the rhythms of your hosts, some of the get to experience, tourists rarely a side of Malay life being a way of learning about gorgeous, coast, are Penang’s Betong, a small island off Pulau like Pulau KOPEL homestay sites, in their own right. undisturbed slices of nature and get in touch with website A KOPEL ECOTOURISM IDEAS IDEAS ECOTOURISM A KOPEL projectecotourism extract is trying to tourists from the Georgetown-Northern Beaches A new Pelancongan KOPEL (Koperasi Pinang. sides of Pulau other and the oft-ignored to Balik Pulau region for started as a cooperative originally Ltd), Tourism Cooperative Berhad/Penang Pinang Pulau folkways that have with many of the traditional puts visitors face to face now trishaw drivers, farm, traditional handicrafts, a goat this includes tours of In Balik Pulau Malay life. dominated seafood markets,paddy fields, palm sap harvesting the like. and mation on the above. Back on the highway, the road climbs up,

Yellow Bus 69 from Georgetown swings by Bus 69 from Georgetown Yellow Balik Pulau (Map p176 ) is the main town on p176 Balik Pulau (Map res- a number of are the island circuit. There taurants, here, food stalls and a daily market % below the hill. below Balik Pulau atmospheric place, and there are information are atmospheric place, and there the site. all over boards in English stores, cookhouses,stores, gun emplacements and in this eerie, can be explored other structures buildings have been restored as a memorial been restored buildings have to those dark days. Barracks, ammunition used as a prison and torture camp by the camp by the used as a prison and torture during WWII. Today, the crumbling Japanese former British fort, built in the 1930s, was former British Penang War MuseumPenang Maung; adult/child RM25/12.50; Heading west of Batu Maung on the road to Batu Maung west of Heading soon come upon the you’ll Kumbar, Teluk particularly good for swimming. particularly good Penang War Museum the seaside fish. You’ll pass some selling fresh on the way; none are pint-sized scenic beaches from where you can detour to the village of of to the village you can detour from where then drops down to View seafood restaurant outside. BusesView seafood outside. 302 restaurant from Georgetown (RM3.40) and 207 (RM4) Batu Maung. go past lonelyplanet.com on top of the steep Bukit Batu Maung. The the steep Bukit Batu Maung. on top of ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

PENANG fie 8 1280; 885 office Teluk ithasgentle trailsthrough Bahang, & 2.45-5pmFriday) Reserve Teluk Forest Bahang you’ll passthenewdamandcomeupon stream a trickle. off theroad,butnearbydamhasleft fall flowedintoanaturalswimmingpooljust you reach Titi Kerawang. Oncethewater- cious fruitswhen they fall. below thetrees themselves toprotect thepre- netsstrung the spikyorbs,andyoucansee are stalls upalongtheroadselling set season, farbelow.Duringdurian the coastandsea toclimbandtwist,offering ofstarts glimpses After toPantai theturn-off Acheh, theroad % Titi Kerawang Farm. Fruit Pulau(RM2)travelsBalik pasttheTropical tors comeonorganised trips.Bus501from Mostvisi- tasting. include afruitsampler per adult/child) are pretty educationaland 202 1 3 2 TELUK BAHANG Selat Melaka As youdescendtowardsthenorthcoast hereThe junglebecomesdenser before Lighthouse 04 (Strait of Melaka) EAG • rudteIln PENANG ••AroundtheIsland Muka Head Keracut Pantai AC Spring h . Several kilometres south of. Several 9am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat&Sun,9am-noon Camping 3 Springs Camping National Park Views Penang Good (Monkey Beach) Teluk DuyongBeach

Mp p176; (Map Duyong Teluk HIKING TRAILS(ONEWAY) Muka HeadtoUniversity...... Pantai KeracuttoTelukBahang.... University toTelukBahang...... Springs B Marine Research % of Malaysia University ranger’s Station Teluk Aling Spring Spring live butterflies representing over 150species Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, 830 JlnTeluk adult/childRM20/10; Bahang; sion RM1; deathly quiet)beach afew kilometres past Cancun, Teluk isthequiet(sometimes Bahang % Teluk Bahang like. the isty andoverpriced and outletforsarongs 1302) ticulturalists, and ful display of bloomsissure hor- todelight Orchid Garden in Teluk passingalongthewayan Bahang, and spiders crawling about. There are lizards alsosomefascinatingbeetles, flapping aroundlike buttery pastel clouds. Farm Fri) 2.45-5pm specialist the jungle,afew waterfall poolsandasmall, If Batu Ferringhi isPenang’s version of From here it’s 1kmnorthtothebusstop A littlenearer thecoastis 1 hr45mins 1 hour 45 mins 04 /pop2500 1

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Forestry Museum Forestry bas 9am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat&Sun,9am-noon 8 (Map p202 ), where thecolour- % 2km 1mile 0 0 EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Penang NationalParkOffice...... Restoran Khaleel...... End oftheWorldRestaurant...... Miss Loh'sGuestHouse...... Hotbay Motel...... Fisherman's VillageGuestHouse...... Tropical SpiceGarden...... Pinang CulturalCentre...... Penang ButterflyFarm...... Orchid Garden...... Meromictic Lake...... rf ai...... D3 Craft Batik...... Bahang Sungai 10 Teluk 885 1253; www.butterfly-insect.com; 885 1253;www.butterfly-insect.com; Craft Batik Craft 11 , with several thousand thousand , withseveral 12

9 2 4 Forest Reserve(1km); 5 ( Balik Pulau(18km) % To TelukBahang

lonelyplanet.com Mp p202; (Map Teluk Bahang To BatuFerringhi(4km); 885 2388;admis- Penang Butterfly Penang Butterfly

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nasi goreng nasi lunch & dinner) Situated in the main shopping area area in the main shopping Situated ) h a breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, h End of the World Restaurant Fisherman’s VillageFisherman’s Guest House Hotbay Motel Restoran Khaleel along the road area The main shopping Miss House Loh’s Guest are are available. heading east to Batu Ferringhi also has a also has a heading east to Batu Ferringhi can find travellers shops where coffee few Chinese and seafood, dishes cheaper well as which good South Indian places, as a couple of sell dishes like beds are also available (RM150/210); prices also available beds are negotiable. pretty are here EATING With all those fishing boats in the harbour, guaranteed. and tasty seafoodfresh is RM4; the offers court next to the Hotbay Motel spe- The usual Malay best value along here. cialities like Information’ – this is your contactInformation’ – this is your into Miss world. little Loh’s Jln Hassan Abbas, Kampong Nelayan; dm/d from RM7/18; as laid-back isn’t quite Fisherman’s Village relative. pretty but that’s being as Miss Loh’s, garden spot to fully This is just the sort of immerse yourself in some indolent idleness. It a homestay anything, and than like more feels to let yourself get be tempted you’ll probably here. life accustomed to the slow pace of r RM65-85; offers roundabout, Hotbay Motel the east of rooms, with a communal TVfair motel-style and seven at the front. Rooms with five lounge Bahang; RM8/15/30; bathroom from shared dm/s/d with anomaly, a throw- an bit of is a Miss Loh’s back- long-term good old days of back to the guesthouse ramshackle as feels packing. Her whom are guests (most of run by the much else, for a bit) as anyone sticking around al- the of though suppose we masters the real the and dogs who have the cats house are negotiable for grounds. Rates the are run of stays, won’t accept tele- Loh but Miss longer communal phone reservations. are There To find the guest- shower and toilet blocks. Bahang’s Teluk on house, look for a store that says ‘GH (the one street) main street Indian pancakes). of the village by the jetty, this restaurant is by the jetty, this restaurant the village of of range dishes and huge famous for its fish little overpriced. seafood, but it’s a from RM15;

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the Island PENANG •• Around , a fascinating rarity 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am- h , the isolated rocky promon- rocky , the isolated is near the park entrance in Penang National Park Park National Penang , which is not to be confused, which Tropical Spice Garden , a beautiful white-sand beach beach , a beautiful white-sand Penang National Park office National Park Penang meromictic lake , down the road from the Penang , down the road from the Penang 9am-6pm) Muka Head Pinang Cultural Centre h The small From Teluk Bahang you can trek down the Bahang can trek you From Teluk Nearby is the The A more difficult trail heads inland towards A more SLEEPING SLEEPING bathrooms unless other- private Rooms have noted. wise is with cinnamon, pepper plants, star aniseand everything else your mum’s spice culled from fecundity. explosive in rack, growing here with Tropical Fruit Farm! This former rub- with Tropical Fruit Farm! the best ber plantation is now basically one of as it smelling places in the world, overflowing www.tropicalspicegarden.com; Jln Teluk Bahang; adult/child www.tropicalspicegarden.com; Jln Teluk RM14/8; exhibitions, cultural shows and buffets are buffets and are exhibitions, cultural shows the latest should have Your hotel held here. and costs. details pre-arranged tour groups. Local handicraft pre-arranged Teluk Bahang) Teluk 3530/3500; Jln Hassan Abbas; noon & 2-4pm Sat & Sun) Bahang. maps and leaflets. It has a few Teluk Guides cost RM100 for a full day, although on weekdays. they may be hard to find freshwater and saltwater support a unique and saltwater support a unique freshwater your tent Learn by pitching ecosystem. more nearby shore. on the two separate layers of unmixed freshwater on freshwater unmixed of two separate layers layered top and seawater below. The resulting the unusual with us): it’s composed go (bear of as lakes Pantai KeracutPantai picnics. Nearby is is a popular spot for which Malaysia Marine Research Station and the pri- Marine Malaysia also called Duyong beach, owned Teluk vately Beach,Monkey named for the numerous pri- A here. who scamper about mates its. This is a reasonably easy walk, taking aroundits. This is a reasonably of The trail passes3½ hours. the University tory at the extreme northwestern corner of the corner of northwestern tory at the extreme by a lighthouse, lim- is off island marked which beach to beach passes the headland, and has some interesting passes and has some interesting the headland, the jungle. trails through and challenging Negara Pulau Pinang), which at just 2300 hec- at just 2300 Pinang), which Negara Pulau It encom- the smallest in Malaysia. is tares the party. There’s not enough beach here for enough not here beach There’s the party. to the main thing crop up, so to any resorts do is tool around Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book over some of the trees was in the works during the trees some of over completed. be our visit, but had yet to Mutiara Beach Resort, only opens for large, PENANG Asian antiquesandart,includingjewellery, isn’t very ismore clear,thesand rockyand comparedoesn’t toMalaysia’s best.Thewater less appealingly, ivory. and, pewter, batik paintings,woodcarvings Batu Ferringhi; Gallery Art chador men walkingshirtless nexttowomeninfull –you’lllikelytourists fromtheGulfStates see end uphere, asdoanincreasing amountof and restaurants. Alotof package resort types which islinedwithbighotels, touristshops Ferringhi,ing alongJlnBatu themaindrag, (Foreigner’s Rock)isaresort stripstretch- small coves andmore Ferringhi beaches. Batu to Batu Ferringhi isapicturesque stretch of The roadfromTeluk alongthe coast Bahang % Batu Ferringhi (RM2.50) fromroughly 6am to11pm. Bus 101runsfromGeorgetown toTeluk Bahang THERE&AWAYGETTING 204 1 3 2 BATU FERRINGHI The beach isfineforsunbathing,but There’s market agoodnight andthe 04 dnSaodVlae...... C2 Eden SeafoodVillage...... Sunset Bistro...... Ship...... Wave RunnerBeachChalet...... Victor's GuestHouse...... Shangri-La RasaSayangResort.... Shalini's GuestHouse...... Ismail Guesthouse...... Grand PlazaParkRoyal...... ET BudgetGuestHouse...... Bayview BeachResort...... Baba GuestHouse...... Ali's GuestHouse...... Ah BengGuestHouse...... Yahong ArtGallery...... Wave RunnerWatersport...... (see13) Post Office...... EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION EAG • rudteIln PENANG ••AroundtheIsland andveil on the beach.

(StraitSelat of Melaka) Melaka

( AC % h 881 1251; www.yahongart.com; 58DJln 881 1251;www.yahongart.com; 9.30am-9pm) 6 Bahang (4km) sells avastrange of sells To Teluk 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 C2 B2 C2 D1 B2 B2 C2 B2 A3 B2 B2 B2 C3 C2 9 13 B 3 Yahong Yahong 7 4 10 5 16 2 (RM80 for 15 minutes) trips. ing (RM100for15minutes) andparasailing (RM120 for30minutes) andrunwater-ski- the beach; theytend torent outwaverunners available. Budget placesallhave shared bath- December toFebruary), bigdiscountsare often (roughly season Outsidehigh developments. days theplaceisdominated byhuge luxury of backpacker hostels nearthebeach, these ellers’ there’s trail,andalthough stillaclutch once afavourite stopover onthebudget trav- Ferringhi,Batu alongwithTeluk was Bahang, SLEEPING they feel heavenly. massage.a 30-minute Andyes, deep-tissue expect topayaroundRM40for their services; sage. willoffer Allsortsof you footmasseuses ACTIVITIES There are plentyof watersports outfitsalong to get orsoakafter atan getting a tan. is hardlyrelaxing. it’saniceplace Thatsaid, ATVs which roaringupanddownthesand, silty thanpowdery,andthere are toomany After which you might need arelaxingAfter need which youmight mas-

Jln Batu 8

Ferringhi 14 1 15 1km 0.5miles 0 0 Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels To PulauTikus(10km); Georgetown (13km) 12

11 Jln Sungai Jln

D Emas PENANG )

205 You ais 888 8888; www Sunset sets 881 4753; 54 Batu 881 4753; A huge barn- A huge % ( lunch & dinner) 881 2123; www.bay

% ( 881 1236; 69A Jln Batu 881 1236; 69A Jln Batu 881 1133; www.penang h dinner) % ( % ( % h (

Right on the sand, this ) a 012-553 1313; Batu Ferringhi; mains 012-553 1313; Batu Ferringhi; % ( noon-1am, to 3am Fri & Sat) 881 2142; www.theship.com.my; 69B Jln 881 2142; www.theship.com.my; 69B Jln At the western, and quieter, end end and quieter, At the western, With 330 rooms, this place still isn’t With 330 rooms, this place ) ) h % ( Wave Chalet Runner Beach Eden Seafood Village Ship Bayview Beach Resort Shangri-La Rasa Resort Sayang steaks and seafood. Escargots and oysters are are and seafood. and oysters steaks Escargots menu. It’s quite also on the rather overpriced rather dark. smart inside, but mains from RM20; Ferringhi; place servinglike seafood from plucked All rooms have balconies, many with sea balconies, All rooms have courts, tennis a health club, views. There’s and all the severalputting green, restaurants bowing, scraping service and grandiosity a price. you’d expect at such & DRINKING EATING Sunset Bistro from RM9; prices are standards. The hiked Malaysian tax. sand-between-your-toes basically mains from RM15; Batu Ferringhi; a wooden sailing specialising in hefty ship, and attractive stretch of beach. Rooms are are Rooms beach. of stretch and attractive course, and those of sea with large views are, Nonguests can usethe gardens and preferable. including lunch. pools for RM25 per day, ais this is a gigantic place set the beach, in of gardens. It has everything palm-filled lovely for, including a watersports you could wish and bars, a gym, squash courts, shops centre, the large including one in the middle of swimming pool. r from RM650; .shangri-la.com; Jln Batu Ferringhi; beach. of on a fine stretch A vast luxury resort often full. Rooms are fresh and clean, with and fresh full. Rooms are often two double beds, TVs,tiled floors, and kettles food stalls on a few are There showers. private the doorstep. Top End Royal Grand Plaza Park r/ste from RM284/418; Jln Batu Ferringhi; .parkroyalhotels.com; ais the bet- but it is one of here, resort the biggest with its squashy lounge, The lobby ones. ter piano bar, leads out onto a clean and sofas viewbeach.com; Jln Batu Ferringhi; r/ste from RM293/540; viewbeach.com; Jln Batu Ferringhi; brick chalet block has just five rooms, so it’s block has just five brick chalet Ferringhi; r RM120-150; r RM120-150; Ferringhi; the tone for several other beach restaurants the tone for several restaurants beach other execu- overpriced decent, in Batu Ferringhi: Chinese, seafood pasta, and burgers, tions of can’t miss this one: it’s a full-sized replica of of this one: it’s a full-sized replica can’t miss )

a This old This old ) a 881 1553; 47 Batu 881 1553; 47 Batu 881 1859; 56 Batu 881 1859; 56 Batu the Island PENANG •• Around 881 1686; babaguest % 881 1005; 399 Jln Batu ( % ( 881 1036; 54C Batu Ferringhi; 881 1036; 54C Batu Ferringhi; % % ( ( 881 1316; 53 Batu Ferringhi; r 881 1316; 53 Batu Ferringhi; 881 2599; Batu Ferringhi; r RM80- 881 2599; Batu Ferringhi; % A double-storey house A double-storey ( ) ) % Down a dusty lane off the Down a dusty lane off %

( ( a a Pricier than most of the beach the beach Pricier than most of ) Simple budget place with a popu- Simple budget ) a a Like its next-door neighbour, Wave Wave its next-door neighbour, Like ) a Ismail Guesthouse Ali’s Guest House Ah Beng Guesthouse Shalini’s Guest House Baba Guest House Victor’s Guest House ET Budget Guest House beach chalets plopped right on the sand. plopped right on chalets beach 160; Runner, Ismail boasts comfy, cool concrete Midrange Midrange may be negotiable in low The following rates season. above properties, but heads up: no alcohol properties, but heads up: no alcohol above is included. Breakfast allowed on site. lar open-air restaurant at the front. It’s a little lar open-air restaurant pricier and subsequently a little nicer than the RM60-100; The most expensive rooms have hot water, hot water, rooms have The most expensive and fridges. TVs chalets here, this place has small but comfort- here, chalets able rooms, some with sea-facing balconies. r RM50-70; family atmosphere. Rooms are basic but neat Rooms are family atmosphere. balconies. The priciest ones and some have bathrooms. private have rooms come with fridges and showers. rooms come with fridges Tidy family home with plain rooms, most family home with plain rooms, most Tidy air-con dearer bathrooms. The with shared [email protected]; 52 Batu Ferringhi; r RM30-60; [email protected]; 52 Batu Ferringhi; less, but it’s good value and in a quiet loca- less, but it’s good value outside. about pecking tion with chickens house with large clean rooms upstairs and clean rooms upstairs house with large a bit cheer- are brick walls down. The bare Ferringhi; r RM30-45; Ferringhi; friendly Indian guest- main road, Victor’s is a The pricier air-con rooms come with TVs The pricier air-con and showers. Ferringhi; r RM25-60; Ferringhi; bathroom. shared with basic rooms, most with access to the beach. access to of each other: each of nice if bland rooms in shared family-run houses, clean conditions and easy Budget Budget copies all practically carbon are The following and easy access to the beach. to and easy access in shared family-run houses, conditions clean in shared rooms except where indicated; midrange and midrange indicated; except where rooms bathrooms. private have options all top-end all practically car- are places here The budget other: each bon copies of if bland rooms nice Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Ferringhi; r RM30-60, apt 120-200; Ferringhi; wooden two-storey house has a friendly house has a friendly wooden two-storey PENANG it’s notgoodforswimming.Even so,bighotels Flowers), thefirst real tothecity,but beach close Ferringhi, you’ll pass Heading backintoGeorgetown fromBatu % Pulau Tikus Ferringhi 6am (RM2)fromroughly to 11pm. Bus 101runsfromGeorgetown toBatu THERE&AWAYGETTING cheap Western and meals. Chinese FoodCourthas Jln SungaiEmas,Global Bay you canenjoyfresh fish.Onthecornerof front nearthebudgetwhere guesthouses, here fornice out. nights at8.30pm.Alotof evening every localseat fish are available. There’s afree danceshow Oysters, crab, lobster andaveritable oceanof style. aquariums attheentrance,Cantonese 206 There are onthebeach- basicfood stalls 04 EAG • rudteIln PENANG ••AroundtheIsland Tanjung Bungah (Cape of (Cape Gurney Dr,withitsgreat viewsand sea Georgetown toPulauTikus (RM1.40). outlets. fast-food fronted converted byofficespaceoreven into or abandoned, or taken over bysquatters, mansions have demolishedthese nowbeen build themostimpressive mansion.Many of whocould early 20thcenturycompeted tosee Row, where nouveau inthe riche Chinese AhmadShah,Sultan formerly Millionaire’s hawker food.Eventually itintersects withJln RM20. costs ChuliatoMidlands Plaza. fromLebuh Ataxi megamalls like Midlands1-StopandIsland cos, wining-and-diningvenues, cinemas,and Pulau Tikus (Midlands)suburbs,fullof dis- where. Ferringhi Batu isstilla better option. and apartmentblocksare croppingupevery- Buses 101,104and304allrunfromBuses Pulau Tikus isthebeginningof scenic After Tanjung Bungah,you’llenter the lonelyplanet.com © Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com

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