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Home , Alamar, Calabazar, Diezmero, Floridita, Gran Teatro de La Habana, Guanabo

// A STUDENT’S GUIDE Congratulations on your decision to Take advantage of every opportunity to if you want to go see the famous oriente study in Cuba! As you may already meet new people and learn from their (east) part of the island, you’ll need to know, this is a very important time in experiences. Remember though, no fi nd out how to get there, where to stay, Cuban history and you will be witnessing matter how far you delve into Cuban and fi nd at least seven days to do it all. the country at a pivotal time as things society, you remain an extranjero. Th at Be sure that you don’t neglect transition to a life without el comandante. status gives you wealth and privilege in your travels though. To my last day I While your trip to Cuba may seem like few can ever attain. You’re not was fi nding new things to do and making a trip through time, Cuba is constantly the same as a tourist, but don’t think new friends. evolving at a pace almost unimaginable. that you’re living the Cuban reality. Th e Don’t blink: you may open your eyes and generosity you will fi nd in Cuba will If I can be of any help as you prepare to fi nd yourself in a diff erent place. amaze you; make sure you return the leave for Cuba or even once you arrive, favor. please don’t hesitate to contact me. My I still remember the moment the reality email is ianyaff [email protected] and you can of my trip hit me as we fl ew over the Once you get settled into your residence, reach me at (508) 645-9518. Enjoy your Cuban coastline and I realized that one you’ll want to start thinking about trip. Cuidate, of my greatest dreams was about to be what your goals for your trip in Cuba fulfi lled. Th e four months I spent there are: where do you want to visit? What seem like just a few days at this point so do you want to get out of your trip? as part of an independent study project, Everything is possible, but advance Ian Yaff e I came up with this guide to help you planning is often required. For example, UniversidadUniversidad ddee LLaa HHabanaabana 2008 maximize your time which will become increasingly limited after you arrive. Still, I remain confl icted about the very idea of these few tips I have to off er. Part of going to Cuba is fi guring out the island and its society for yourself. To truly get to know Cuba, you’ll have to let go from life in the United States and open your mind to a diff erent reality.

As a estudiante becado (student in residence), you’ll have unparalled access to the two Cubas that some people only get to talk about. You’ll be able to see Cuba for what it really is and at the same moment, see Cuba through a tourist’s perspective. You’ll be able to go places tourists aren’t allowed and places where Cubans aren’t always welcome. At the lighthouse overlooking Havana on May 31, 2008. CUBA // A STUDENT’S GUIDE 1 LA HABANA // SIGHTS OVERVIEW MUSEO DE LA REVOLUCIÓN is a MUSEO DE LA HABANA is a really Havana is absolutely full of things to walk-and-read type of museum which nice museum fi lled with artifacts about do. Th is is just a partial list of things I explains the through Havana’s history including the fi rst really enjoyed. Make sure to bring your diff erent rooms containing artifacts, Cuban fl ag. About an hour and you’ll carné since almost every place I’ve listed pictures, and written explanations. I be all set. Located in the Palacio de los here off ers a diff erent price for nationals, wouldn’t bother with the guided tour Capitanes Generales in the Plaza de estudiantes becados (you), and tourists. since everything is written down for you Armas. in both Spanish and English. Plan to spend at least a few hours there if you MUSEO DEL RON is a must see for HABANA VIEJA want to see the whole thing. If you have anyone who loves the drink Cuba is HOTEL PARQUE CENTRAL is one a paper on the history of Cuba to write, famous for. Students get half price, but of the nicest hotels in Havana and off ers this is a great place to bring a notebook. there wasn’t a MN price when I visited. a great view of Habana Vieja and the Th e M/VGranma is on display next Don’t worry about the extra dollar or Capitolio from its sixth fl oor roof. It also door. two though, you’ll get to enjoy a shot of has an incredible pool that you should 7 años at the end of the tour detailing sneak into at least once during your stay. how it’s made. Avenida San Pedro No. Look through the room numbers and 262, e/ Muralla y Sol, near Plaza San make something up if you’re asked. Francisco.

GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA is MAQUETA DE LA HABANA VIEJA world-renowned for its architecture and Where else can you see the sun rise and quality of shows. Try and make at least set over Havana in just a few minutes? one during your stay. Located at Parque Th is model of Habana Vieja is accurate Central next to the Capitolio. to building color and really incredible to see. Mercaderes No. 114. MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS Inside the Museo de la Revolución. ARTES If you like art, you can spend CAMERA OSCURO Located at the days at the National Museum of Fine HEMINGWAY BAR CRAWL Bring top of a white building in Plaza Vieja, Arts. Th e museum is comprised of your wallet for this one, but be sure to the Camera Oscuro off ers a bird’s two enormous buildings dedicated to enjoy some of the fi nest drinks Cuba eye view of the city complete with an diff erent types of art. Paintings are has to off er in the places that are known explanation about where everything is. A located in the building on Trocadero, e/ worldwide for them: a in the perfect idea to orient you with the city. Zulueta y Monserrate. Bodeguita del Medio (Empedrado near the ) and a TABERNA DE LA MURALLA is CAPITOLIO Cuba’s old capital daiquirí in the (Monserrate, Havana’s only brewery and home of building is open to the public seven days esq. Obispo). Hemingway’s seat is still some actually pretty good beer: clara per week. Take the guided tour and you reserved and a small tip will get you a (light), ocsura (medium), and my favorite, can even seat in a representative’s seat. picture with the legend himself. negra (dark). Th e burger deal is pretty good for lunch. Plaza Vieja. 2 LA HABANA // SIGHTS ARTISAN’S MARKET Looking for CINE YARA is a famous movie theater NECRÓPOLIS COLÓN is an that perfect gift to bring home? You’ll located across from Coppelia that almost enormous cemetery on the outskirts fi nd plenty of cheesy tourist items and always shows the latest hits from the of Plaza. Th e sheer size of it is almost a few great souvenirs and paintings U.S. 2 pesos for admission and no impossible to describe. Check in at the at the Artisan’s market on Tacón, esq. shorts or tank tops allowed. You’ll also front gate to get ideas of specifi c places Empedrado. Right by the Malecón as it fi nd a schedule for other theaters on the you may want to visit. goes up the harbor. outside window. JARDIN ZOOLÓGICO or the zoo EL PRADO Stretching from the HOTEL NACIONAL is, as it sounds, is located on Avenida 26 across the Malecón to Parque Central, El Prado is Cuba’s national hotel. Its architecture street from the Víazul terminal. Cuba a busy street with a promenade in the alone is worth seeing as are the views has an impressive collection of animals middle and famous lions side by side. it off ers of the Florida straights and and most recently has been trading Malecón. A perfect spot for drinks after some to other countries in exchange for BARRIO CHINO Chinatown in dinner (you may want to bring your veterinary supplies. Havana? Before the revolution, there own bottle to save money). Th ere’s also was a very sizeable Chinese population a great pool and gym available for daily, MIRAMAR & PLAYA in Havana and today the neighborhood weekly, and monthly use. Calle O, esq. AQUARIO NACIONAL is probably still exists, marked by the traditional gate 21. the only place in the world you can you’ll see everywhere else. Th ere are see dolphins dancing to heavy metal, even a few Chinese restaurants left. reggaetón, and the theme song from Titanic. Th ere’s also a sea lion show and & PLAZA several diff erent fi sh species on display. UNIVERSIDAD DE LA HABANA 3rd Avenida, esq. 62. Take the P1 to 3ra Located just a few blocks away from & 70. Coppelia and the Habana Libre Hotel on , UH is Cuba’s premier MARINA HEMINGWAY is an academic institution. Be sure to get enormous harbor designed for the yachts a tour from one of the students who which won’t be coming until the embargo knows it best. ends. If you like boats, this is the place to Malecón & Línea after sunset. go. You can also arrange for fi shing and diving trips here. 5ta Avenida, esq. 248. LA R AMPA Calle 23 is known as “Th e Ramp” from Coppelia to the Malecón and is lined with shops, restaurants, bars, and markets. PARQUE HISTÓRICO MILITAR MALECÓN is my favorite place in Cuba, MORRO-CABAÑA is a huge complex hands down. Stretching from Plaza right across the bay from Habana Vieja. to Habana Vieja, this is an important During the daytime, you can visit the old transportation link and a place to just fortresses and climb the old lighthouse Alma Mater & Universidad de La Habana. relax or see friends. You’ll see what I for a great view. You’ll also want to see mean. Don’t miss seeing the sunset here, the nightly cañonazo (canon fi ring to especially on a clear night. signal the closing of Havana’s colonial COPPELIA In the mood for ice cream? gates) at 9:00 every night. Take the P11 Good, because so is the rest of Havana. MONUMENTO JOSÉ MARTÍ is the and get off at the fi rst stop. Coppelia is located at the corner of La center point of Plaza de la Revolución Rampa (23) and L, across from the Yara and the tallest point in Havana. In CRISTO DE LA HABANA Who and Habana Libre Hotel. You can’t miss addition to holding numerous events said there’s no religion in Cuba? Past the it, and you won’t want to. Various lines and rallies, the monument has a museum Morro, you can see the enormous Christ form around the exterior and on hot days about José Martí and spectacular views statue that overlooks the whole city and can be over an hour long. You might of Havana in the . views of the commercial side of Havana’s need your since tourists aren’t mirador carné waterfront. allowed inside the peso section. An ensalada (5 scoops) costs 5 pesos. Keep in mind Coppelia isn’t open on Mondays. LA HABANA // SIGHTS 3 LA HABANA // GETTING AROUND OVERVIEW routes of the P-series bus lines. Here are VEDADO-HABANA VIEJA. Wave With about 2 million residents, Havana a few routes I used frequently: a máquina down anywhere on Calle 23 is a crowded city. Add the fact that very and it will drop you off at the Capitolio few people own cars, and you’ll begin VEDADO-HABANA VIEJA: P4 (La or on the Prado. Going back to Vedado, to understand how strained public Rampa-Parque Fraternidad), P5 (La the line starts across the street from the transportation is. Th at being said, great Rampa-Parque Fraternidad), P11 (G y Hotel Parque Central. reforms are being made currently and the 27-Capitolio). system is getting better and better every VEDADO-MIRAMAR. You can catch day. You have four basic ways of getting VEDADO-PLAYAS DEL ESTE: P11 a máquina to Miramar on Línea. Th ey around: walking, the bus (guaguaguagua), peso (G y 27) then transfer to the 400 at the go through the tunnel and then take 3ra taxis (máquinas), and CUC taxis. Hospital Naval. Th e 400 goes to both or 5ta (ask the driver). Santa Maria and . CUC TAXIS Th ere are two types of CUC taxis: legal THE BUS VEDADO-MIRAMAR: P1 (G y Línea- and illegal. Legal taxis are clearly marked Th e bus—orguagua as its called 3ra Avenida), 27 (G y 23 to 5ta y 3). in Cuba—is the main form of and have fi xed rates based on a meter transportation within Havana and across and illegal taxis are unmarked cars that the island. Th e standard fare for city will stop if you wave them down. Always buses is 40 peso centavos per person. negotiate your price before you depart. If you don’t have the change, you can You’ll get your best deal using an illegal ask for it or simply pay for the person taxi only if you know what you’re doing. behind you and take their 40 centavos. Otherwise, they sometimes will charge At the beginning of bus routes there are you more. If your accent is real good and often two colas: one for sitting and one you look like you could be Cuban, you for standing. Take a look at the picture may even get charged in pesos. above and get an idea for how full the bus gets. It’s always a good idea to keep An old . bags in front of you if you’re standing camello or in true Cuban form, you can ask the PESO TAXIS person sitting next to you to watch them Peso taxis travel fi xed routes for a fl at for you. When you get to a bus stop fare of $10 pesos per person. Th ey’re you should ask for for whatever el último often called máquinas and usually a bus line you’re waiting for (el último pa’l pre-1959 car from the U.S. You’ll notice P11). If there’s a really long line, make them by a hand-made taxi placard in the sure you know who’s in front and behind windshield and they’ll pull over for you if you. Other than that, just go with the you put your arm straight out and wave fl ow and if you have any questions, just (do what everyone else does). Here are Th e start of the P6 line. ask, you’ll get plenty of advice. Check two useful routes: the map on the last page for the complete 4 LA HABANA // GETTING AROUND LA HABANA // GETTING OUT OVERVIEW ASTRO doesn’t accept reservations so you’ll want By the time you’ve fi gured out how to Astro is Cuba’s national bus company to get there early. It’s pretty much hit or get around Havana, you’ll probably be and off ers service to every town and city miss whether or not its running the day ready to start thinking about leaving. on the island. Th e schedule is beyond you want to travel and there isn’t a way No matter where you’re going, you’ll complicated, but there are a lot of daily to fi nd out until you get to the station. need to spend at least some money so trips. Th e major problem you’ll fi nd is It’s a fun ride through from Havana to you’re options are generally divided in trying to make a reservation. As of June . Th e Tren Especial runs from two: fast (CUC) and slow (peso). You 2008, reservations were only available Havana to Santiago with stops in Santa can defi nitely save money and you will in person at Astro agencies starting 120 Clara and Camagüey. It’s supposed to get there by using your carné and paying days before the day of your trip. You are make the trip in 12 hours, but took 24 in pesos, but at some point, the money best off going to the central reservation (fast for the train). Reservations are saved may not be worth the time lost. It agency in Terminal La Coubre (past accepted only three days in advance at always depends though so ask around the main train station in Habana Vieja) Terminal La Coubre. If you get in line at and do whatever seems to work best. and being fl exible with dates. Go in the 7:00 a.m., you should have your tickets afternoon to avoid the morning line. by 10:30. Make sure to book fi rst class for the extra 10 pesos. Bring long pants VÍAZUL You must have the carné of each person traveling and pay up front (prices are in and a long sleeve shirt since all cars For travel beyond three or four hours, pesos and will not exceed 150 even for feature bone-chilling air conditioning. you’re best off just paying the extra the longest trip). It’s a good idea to have money and taking Víazul. All buses one person in line for every three tickets depart from the Víazul station on PRIVATE CAR you want to buy, but that isn’t always Avenida 26 and generally run on If you’re travelling in a group of three to required. Astro also handles reservations schedule (a rarity in Cuba). Reservations four people, you may be best off taking for the ferry running to Isla de la are recommended. Call 881-1413 or an illegal taxi or private car. Don’t Juventud (a separate line though). visit http://www.viazul.cu for more ever pay more than the Víazul fare for information. You may even be able to your particular trip multiplied by the make your reservation online, something TRAIN number of passengers. Th e trip won’t I wasn’t able to do during my trip. Fares Th e train in Cuba is both impressive be any faster, but you’ll be able to leave as of August 2008 from Havana are and disappointing: impressive because whenever you want and stop anywhere in CUC and as follows (roundtrip is Cuba is the only Caribbean island on the way. You’ll want to see the car simply double): Varadero (3 hours, $10), to have a passenger train system and before you leave: four people in a Lada Viñales (3 hours, $12), (4 disappointing because it’s fi ve times is very tight. Try to have someone you hours, $22), Trinidad (5.5 hours, $27), worse than Amtrak. Still, it may be your know set up the ride for you, but I’ve had Santa Clara (4 hours, $20), Camagüey best bet to get around. Th e two trains just as much luck with someone I met (8 hours regular, 6.5 hours express, $36), you’ll probably use are the Hershey outside the bus station. (15 hours regular, 11 train which runs whenever it feels like it hours express, $55). A full schedule is from its special station across the harbor available online or at any Víazul terminal. () and the Tren Especial from Havana to Santiago. Th e Hershey train LA HABANA // GETTING OUT 5 LA HABANA // FOOD & PRACTICALITIES OVERVIEW PESO FOOD within about fi ve minutes. $10 peso Unlike many countries in Latin America, CAFETERÍA 17 & H. Vedado. My hamburguesas and $24 peso platos. Cuban food is noticeably bland, with all time favorite lunch spot, this place Home of the “el cliente siempre tiene la spice normally being considered oil has the best omelet sandwiches and razón” guarantee! and salt. It’s often mediocre, but if you great steak (pork) sandwiches too. Be know where to go, you’ll fi nd delicious prepared to wait and remember, “espere PIZZERÍA SAN LÁZARO Y food at enticing prices. If you like spicy su turno.” $10 peso pan c/ tortilla con ESPADA. Vedado. Starting at the food, bring your favorite hot sauce with cebolla. $15 peso pan c/ bistec. $25 University, walk down San Lázaro and you. Havana is home of Cuba’s largest peso “Americano” which is really a steak this place is on the right side two blocks culinary variety and its many secrets best and egg sandwich. You have to ask for it after Infanta. Th is has the best pizza left for you to discover. Here are a few specifi cally. Desserts also available. Try in Vedado; try the $10 peso pizza con of my favorite places though to get you the crema de coco. cebolla. started. CAFETERÍA LA CARIDAD. Calle Rabi No. 475, e/ Zapotes y San Nicolas, AGROS Santo Suarez. Home of the best pizza Havana is full of agromercados—farmer’s in Havana, this place is well worth the markets with fresh fruit and produce. lengthy trip and perfect for dinner out of Just walk a few blocks around you’re your normal options. Take the P6 or P9 neighborhood and you’re bound to fi nd and get off at the Toyo stop. Pizzas are one. Note that fruits are generally only between $25-$35 pesos and there’s even available while they’re in season meaning a Hawaiana. you probably won’t taste anything better, but that once it runs out, you won’t see it again during your trip either. Prices in CUC FOOD Cafetería 17 y H. all agros are in pesos and are usually well Let’s face it: eventually you will get sick marked. of the food at your residence and even CAFETERÍA 23 & G. Vedado. I the variety of peso options won’t get never found out the name of this place, you excited. Luckily, there are plenty of but it’s just after Café G on Calle 23. options in CUC from decent to what Th e food is pretty good, but I came here you’d expect out of a fi ne restaurant in almost every day for fresh guayaba juice New York City. Be prepared for slow ($2 pesos). Th ey also have delicious $24 service. Your two venue types are state- peso platos and assorted sandwiches. run restaurants which are hit or miss in terms of quality and paladares which JAQUELINE’S. H e/ 21 y 23, are small in-home restaurants where Vedado. Th is is the spot for cheap and the food is generally good and service tasty hamburgers (pork). It’s usually excellent. Check your guide for more crowded, but you should get your food options, but here are a few ideas: Th eagro at 21 y J. 6 LA HABANA // FOOD & PRACTICALITIES LA ROCA. Calle 21, esq. N, Vedado. for quality home-made Mexican food. GROCERIES Aside from the numerous Due to location and price, this was the $6-8 CUC per person plus drinks. You CUC markets throughout Vedado, restaurant I went to most during my stay can get here easily on the P1 from G & there are a few supermarkets that you in Havana. Service is slow, but the food Línea. Get off at 3rd & 70. may want to check out. One is in the was consistently tasty. Try the Chicken mall next to the Meliá Cohiba hotel on sandwich ($2.50 CUC), hamburger MELIÁ HABANA. For the best the Malecón, the biggest one is on 3ra ($3.50 CUC), or for a complete lunch, burgers in town, go to the Meliá Habana Avenida y 70 in Miramar (on the P1), trying the descargas magicas ($4-5 CUC). in Miramar. It’s a long way down 5ta, and the one with the most variety is near Check your bill twice. but it’s well worth it. Bring about $10 the PALCO (Palacio de Convenciones). CUC. Fast service and you won’t have to To get to the PALCO, you’re best off in a FABIO’S. Calle 19, esq. J, Vedado. worry about checking your bill. taxi. Ask for the mercado PALCO. Fabio’s has decent Italian food and walking distance from La Rampa. Most LAUNDRY in Havana is often an pizzas and pastas are available for $4-6 adventure. You can pay the staff of your CUC. Try the cheesecake—if it’s ever in residence between $3-5 CUC per load stock. for machine wash/line-dry with a turn- around of between 2 days and a week or LA RAMPA. Calle 23, esq. L, Vedado. pay $4 per load machine wash/machine Located inside the Habana Libre. Th is dry at Lavandería Aster in Miramar with place is overpriced, but the food is same-day turn-around. Aster is open generally good and service fast. from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. M-F and 9 a.m. to noon on Saturdays. It is located on Calle COMEDOR AGUILAR. Calle O, esq. A real cheeseburger in Cuba. Meliá Habana. 24 e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar on the P1. 21, Vedado. Located inside the Hotel Call ahead for more info at 204-1622. I Nacional, this is the classiest restaurant EL ALJIBE. 7ma Avenida e/ 24 y 26, seriously would recommend Aster—your I went to in Havana. You’ll pay at least Miramar. 204-1583. Comida criolla. clothes will last a lot longer. $25 CUC per person for the incredible food and excellent service, but I’d still try LOS CUROS. Calle Santo Suarez, esq. MONEY Th ere are two currencies in and get here at least once during your Rabi, Santo Suarez. Th is is an incredible Cuba: CUC (pesos convertibles) and visit for a diff erent view of Havana. Spanish restaurant with reasonable MN (moneda nacional/pesos). To prices. My favorites were the camarones change foreign currency into CUC, enchillados and coco relleno (for dessert). you will fi nd the best rates at full bank offi ces like the Banco Metropolitano on TABERNA DE LA MURALLA. Plaza La Rampa at Malecón. Note that Cuba Vieja, Habana Vieja. Home of Havana’s currently charges a 10% tax on U.S. only brewery, the Taberna also has decent dollars so you are best off changing your burgers and nice patio seating. Th e money into Canadian dollars or Euros highlight is, of course, the beer which is before you arrive. To change CUC into $2 CUC/pint and comes in clara, oscura, MN/pesos, you can go to any Cadeca and negra (my favorite). and exchange 1 CUC for 24 pesos. If you run out of pesos, CUC are always PRACTICALITIES accepted, typically at a $0.05 CUC to 1 peso conversion unless you are paying PHONE CARDS are sold by the state- exactly 24 pesos. It doesn’t work the run telephone company ETECSA. Get other way around though. a CUC card for international cards and a MN card for making local and long MAIL is so slow in Cuba that you distance calls within Cuba. To call the shouldn’t plan on getting any. DHL United States from Cuba, follow the has service to Cuba for anything urgent instructions on your card and when Inside the Comedor Aguilar, Hotel Nacional. (no packages) and mail to the U.S. from asked to dial the number, dial 119-1 Cuba takes between 3-4 weeks. To send then the full number with area code. MI JARDÍN. Calle 66 No. 517, esq. a postcard is anywhere from $0.50-$0.75 119 is the code to exit Cuba and 1 is the Av. 5taB, Miramar. 203-4627. In the pesos depending on who you ask. Post international code to call the U.S. mood for Mexican? Head to Mi Jardín offi ces sell stamps in MN/pesos only. LA HABANA // FOOD & PRACTICALITIES 7 // MUNICIPIO ESPECIAL OVERVIEW Confi rmation closes one hour in advance power is turned on. I still recommend ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD, formerly so if you don’t check in by then, you will this house because of how honest known as Isla de Pinos for its pine trees lose your reservation. Check with the Enrique is. He admit that he’s making is the largest of Cuba’s many islands and agents to make sure this information is good money here, but he gave me his located 70 km south of Batabanó. It accurate before you travel. Th e Isla agent best (fair) price right from the start, was renamed Isla de la Juventud after in the Habana bus terminal is located in knowing that I was a student. Eat every the Revolution in honor of the many a separate offi ce to the right of the main youth workers that Fidel sent there. La entrance. Th ere’s only one agency in Isla holds a special part in Fidel’s history Nueva Gerona as the only way to leave as well, as home of the prison he was is on the boat. To board the cometa, sent to after the failed Moncada attack. you will have to go through security Nueva Gerona, the principle town of the screening. Th e rules are the same as island, is devoid of much to do, but still a fl ying. If you’re bringing rum or anything nice place to relax after exploring the rest that could be considered a weapon, make of the island. sure you bring a jabita so you can check it before you board.

GETTING THERE CUBANA fl ies to Isla daily. Make Th e view at sunrise fromCasa de Enrique. ASTRO is your only ground option reservations at the Cubana agency on La dinner here! For an extra $5 CUC, I to travel to La Isla. Busses depart the Rampa at Malecón. You can only pay enjoyed a surf & turf feast. But don’t tell main terminal in Plaza for Batabanó with CUCs. Bring your passport. Your anyone, since he has to get the food from (1.5 hours) and a met by a high-speed carné means nothing for fl ying. the black market. Call from Habana to catamaran, La cometa, which fi nishes make a reservation and he’ll meet you at the journey on sea (2.5 hours). In total, WHERE TO STAY your ferry. (046) 32-1983. Th e house is the journey takes about six hours if you on Calle 34 No. 4309 e/ 43 y 45. You’ll Th ere are no hotels in Nueva Gerona, include waiting time. Make reservations be on the second fl oor. If you need more where you’ll arrive. Stay in a Casa for La Isla a few weeks in advance at the rooms, he will be more than happy to Particular. central reservation agency in Terminal arrange that in advance with other Casas La Coubre. Th e fare is $55 pesos each- close by. Also, Enrique has a well- CASA DE ENRIQUE JULIA is my way with a carné or $50 CUC without. restored and spacious Máquina and will pick for Nueva Gerona. Th e room cost It pays to be a student! Isla tickets are drive you anywhere on the island for the $10 CUC per night (without food) and sold in a special line and include the bus best price in town. $25 CUC was the was very spacious with two beds, air transfers. Here’s a peculiarity about the round-trip price to Hotel Colony, where conditioning, and a private bathroom. It times though: the departure time on your the boat excursions leave for the diving has one of those electric shower heads ticket is actually the time confi rmation and snorkeling opportunities off Punta which you’ll probably become familiar starts for that particular trip. For the Francés. bus, that is 90 minutes in advance, but with. Be especially careful with this one for the boat it’s 3 hours. So, your 5:00 to avoid a shock. You can’t change the a.m. ferry will actually depart at 8:00. settings on the shower head while the 8 ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD // MUNICIPIO ESPECIAL WHERE TO EAT crocodiles up close and personal. Check MUSEO MUNICIPAL back in Nueva If the food isn’t incredible at your with Ecotur for more information. A Gerona off ers the low-down on the Casa, you can venture out to the small taxi there should be no more than $25 history of the Isla. Calle 30 e/ 37 y 39. restaurant scene in Nueva Gerona. CUC round trip. Eating options are few and there are no MUSEO DE CIENCIAS paladares. CUEVA PUNTA DEL ESTE is at NATURALES Y PLANETARIO was the south-eastern most point of Isla, an a well sought out destination, off ering RESTAURANTE COCHINITO had hour away from Nueva Gerona. While the usual natural science stuff and a good criolla food, but I wasn’t allowed other students said the save was less than planetarium, which is open on a Cuban to eat there since I was wearing shorts. impressive (skip it if you’ve seen caves schedule. Calle 41 y 46. It’s in moneda nacional. Instead, what here), there’s a beach nearby that you can I really enjoyed was the bar. Th ey had relax on. Check with Ecotur. Your taxi good , cuba libres, and piña should be no more than $25 CUC. coladas (a drink I normally despise), all for $10 pesos each! You’ll fi nd it on the PUNTA FRANCéS was the highlight of main street—Calle 39, esq. 24. my trip to the Isla. I came here wanting to go diving and here there are over fi fty RESTAURANTE DRAGóN Just a dive sites recognized around the world. block past the Cohinito, this restaurant You’ll need to book your trip through off ers another Cuban speciality: Cuban- Ecotur. Skip the lunch they off er and Chinese food. It smelled good enough to get a merienda from your Casa. You’ll me, but we skipped eating there and went also need to arrange for transportation Th e amusement park of Nueva Gerona. back to our Casa. Calle 39, esq. 26. to Hotel Colony. $25 round trip for a taxi. Once arriving at Hotel Colony, CALLE 39/MARTÍ is the main drag you’ll be taken to the harbor where you’ll in Nueva Gerona. Walk down it and WHAT TO DO get your gear. You can’t legally dive if you’ll fi nd everything there is. You’ll need to make sure that you have you don’t have a diving license, but there at least one full day on the Isla. Th e are ways around that. Th e boat ride to LOS PINERITOS is an amusement trip works well as a Friday-Sunday deal. Punta Francés is about an hour and very park—for little kids—that is worth You’ll have plenty of time to explore enjoyable. If you can’t legally go diving, checking out for the brightly-colored, Nueva Gerona during the afternoons off er to pay the crew on the spot for the still functioning, yet obviously antique and evenings, so for the day your major privilege (once your underway). He’ll rides. Th e cafetería had really good decision is whether you’ll hit the beach, set you up, but obviously don’t mention galetas (think: snack for the boat ride and the caves, or the prison where Fidel this to the authorities. If diving isn’t don’t forget the jabita). You’ll fi nd the stayed from 1953-55. A good place to your thing, you can either relax on an park around Calle 35, esq. 20 or just ask start is Ecotur, located right across the incredible beach or go snorkeling. for it. street from the ferry terminal.

PRESIDIO MODELO is located 5 km away from Nueva Gerona. I wouldn’t expect a round-trip taxi to be more than $8 CUC for everyone. Since the prison no longer houses inmates (a new one was built after the revolution), it’s open to the public and there’s a museum next door. Th e price will be next to nothing with your carné. Other than holding Fidel’s cell, the prison is also famous for being his fi rst training ground; Batista let him run a revolutionary school there. Seriously. (046) 32-5112.

CRIADERO DE COCODRILOS is about an hour south-east of Nueva Gerona and off ers a chance for you to see Th e pristine waters of Punta Francés off er world-class diving and snorkeling. You’ll be the only ones there. ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD // MUNICIPIO ESPECIAL 9 VIÑALES & LAS TERRAZAS // PINAR DEL RÍO OVERVIEW VIÑALES LAS TERRAZAS Th e western-most province of Cuba, Viñales is right up there with Varadero Las Terrazas is a nature-preserve and Pinar del Río is most famous for its as a top destination for people leaving small community in the eastern portion vegas de tabaco (tobacco plantations) and Havana for only a day. Aside from the of Pinar del Río, just about an hour west mogotes (mountains of limestone shaped beach, here you’ll be able to do anything of Havana. Th ere’s a hotel, but this is by the sea). Th is is the place you’ll want outside that Cuba has to off er: horseback really the perfect opportunity for a day to come if you’re interesting in camping riding, hiking, swimming in caves, biking, trip. Th e best way to get here is by taxi, or seeing where Cohibas come from. Just and of course, sightseeing. As I see it, but you can also try haciendo la botella two hours away from Havana, it’s easy as you have two options: 1) A tour package (hitching) if you want to save money a day trip or overnight. from one of the agencies that will show you a vega de tabaco, a cigar factory, the famous mogotes, a horse ranch, and some caves for about half and hour each. 2) You can take Víazul or a taxi to Viñales, get settled in, and do whatever you want. Th e tour was fi ne for me, but if you want to be on your own schedule and actually spend time outside, take option number A colonial Cafetal in Las Terrazas. two. You’ll need to spend a night out and meet people along the way. At some there though. If you arrive using Víazul point though, you’ll need to fi nd a ride from the Autopista into the park. Check Th emogotes in Viñales. with the Ecotur agency in Havana for the full details. Once you’re there, you can GETTING THERE take in the sights including an old coff ee ASTRO will take you easily to Pinar del plantation (cafetal), a zip line, various Río and intermediate points. sights of ecological signifi cance, and the numerous baños or bathing spots along VíAZUL/TRANSTUR both travel to rivers. You’ll also want to get a chance to Viñales and Pinar del Río. Use Víazul if see the town of Las Terrazas and while you want to stay overnight or make your Th eMural de la Prehistoria in Viñales. you’re there you can rent a paddle boat own plans. Transtur provides a guided you’ll have no problem fi nding one of the or canoe. Again, think transportation. service for this province. many casas in this small town. As always, None of these sights are within walking it’s best (and less stressful) to make plans distance of each other so unless you have TAXIS are your best option if you want in advance so check the guides and call all day, hiring a taxi at least once you to get anywhere off the standard tourist around. If you’re taking a taxi there, the arrive may be essential. track. Plus, with three or four people chofe will undoubtedly know of places you’ll save money compared to Víazul you can stay. Don’t forget your passport! and Transtur. 10 VIÑALES & LAS TERRAZAS // PINAR DEL RÍO MATANZAS, VARADERO, & PLAYA GIRÓN // MATANZAS OVERVIEW Matanzas if you have a group of four VARADERO Directly east of La Habana, Matanzas people (excluding the peso options). For Varadero is the most beautiful beach I province is close enough so that the cheapest rate, get an unoffi cial one have ever seen. Don’t leave Cuba without everything to see there can be done on (otherwise known as illegal). at least one visit! It’s perfect for a day a day-trip or if you want to take your trip or a night at an all-inclusive hotel if time, for a weekend. Th e north shore CIUDAD MATANZAS you want to escape Havana Take a taxi off ers the world-renowned beach and Most famous for being Cuba’s capital or hitchhike unless you want to leave tourist center of Varadero as well as the of Santería, Matanzas is the best place early in the morning. It’s past Matanzas strikingly “authentic” Ciudad Matanzas. to learn about Afro-Cuban religions on the Vía Blanca. South of everything, you’ll want to stop and not really worth visiting if you by Bay of Pigs, or Playa Girón as it’s don’t want to do that. Ask around in known here. Habana for a santero and get something set-up in advance which will most likely GETTING THERE include housing. If you can get there ASTRO will take you easily to Ciudad early in the morning, one day is plenty of Matanzas or Varadero. You’ll need time. Otherwise, plan on spending the reservations from Terminal La Coubre night to get the most out of everything. well in advance. Alternatively, you can arrive in Matanzas, Th e pristine beaches of Varadero. get settled in one of the numerous Casas, VíAZUL/TRANSTUR both travel to and ask for the nearby templos. Be wary PLAYA GIRÓN Matanzas and Varadero and you only of ceremonies that focus too much Well-known as Bay of Pigs in el imperio, need to get on the list the night before to on money. Sure, you should make a Playa Girón off ers two major attractions: avoid lista de espera. Transtur leaves from CUC contribution for being there, but museums that give the history of the fi rst Habana Libre, Víazul from its terminal that shouldn’t be the only reason the time Latin America “beat” the U.S. in near the Zoo. ceremony is happening. combat and great beaches that run along the southern coast. You’ll need some TREN HERSHEY is Cuba’s famous type of private transportation to get (and only) electric train. An experience there on your own or set up something in itself, it’s worth trying (and only a few with Transtur. pesos with your carné), but frequently out-of-service. If they don’t answer the phone on the day you plan to travel, assume it’s not working. It leaves from Casablanca (on the other side of Habana Bay). Call (07) 862-4888.

TAXIS may be your cheapest and most convenient way to travel to anywhere in A Santería consultation in Templo Otura Di. Th e eM uMuseamseam of of P lPlayaaya G iGirón.rón. MATANZAS, VARADERO, & PLAYA GIRÓN // MATANZAS 11 CIUDAD CIENFUEGOS // CIENFUEGOS OVERVIEW GETTING THERE Be sure to check out the Catedral de la CIENFUEGOS is located southeast of ASTRO/VÍAZUL have multiple daily Purísima Concepción, Teatro Tomás , about three hours departures for Cienfuegos which is Terry, and if you can, the mirador at the away from Havana. With an impressive included in routes to Trinidad. top of the blue Casa de la Cultura. and well-protected bay, the city was founded as and remains an important TAXIS will off er faster service to port. Today, the city is an important Cienfuegos with a maximum price of industrial center to the island and also whatever Víazul charges. a popular stop for tourists who visit the nearby town of Trinidad. In fact, the history of Trinidad and Cienfuegos is GETTING AROUND very well-connected. With the superior COCHES meaning horse-drawn protection off ered by its bay, Cienfuegos wagons, are a major mode of quickly replaced Trinidad as both a port transportation here. A few pesos will get and industrial center. For centuries, that you where you need to go. replacement left Trinidad in the past and ironically, that connection to the past TAXIS are unusually hard to fi nd, but Inside the church in Parque Martí. brought Trinidad ahead economically off er reasonable rates and a much faster because of its popularity as a tourist way of getting around. You’ll fi nd more AVENIDA 54 is the southern boundary destination. Cubans and tourists alike of them by the bus terminal. to Parque Martí and between Calle are often impressed by how clean of a 29 and Calle 37 (Prado) is a shopping city Cienfuegos is. district that will make you question WHERE TO STAY & EAT whether or not you’re in Cuba. If you I didn’t overnight in Cienfuegos, so I need to buy anything during your trip to don’t have many suggestions. Check Cienfuegos, this would be the place. the guidebooks which will inevitably be full of information. Cienfuegos has PALACIO DEL VALLE is the pride signifi cantly more options compared to and joy and Cienfuegos and located Santa Clara. Th ere’s a great restaurant all the way down Calle 37 (Prado) at at Punta Gorda next to the Palacio del Punta Gorda. A well-kept mansion, Valle. Ask for the place with Paella. Th e the building now off ers a great view of food is in pesos and there’s a dress code. Cienfuegos Bay and a roof-top bar.

WHAT TO DO JARDÍN BOTÁNICO SOLEDAD is PARQUE MARTí is located in the about 20 minutes outside of Cienfuegos center of Pueblo Nuevo and a must see. (by taxi or bus) and formerly run by La Th e buildings surrounding the park Yuma’s fi nest—Harvard University. If are beautifully restored and many off er you want to see a botanical garden in Avenida 54 just east of Parque Martí. guided tours (in pesos with your carné). Cuba, this might just be the one. 12 CIUDADCIUDAD CIENFUEGOS // CIENFUEGOS SANTA CLARA // VILLA CLARA OVERVIEW GETTING AROUND As the center point of transportation in COCHES meaning horse-drawn Cuba, Santa Clara is an industrial town wagons, are a major mode of that sees plenty of travelers, few of whom transportation here. A few pesos will get stay for more than a few hours, unless you where you need to go. they’re Cuban in which case they can spend days there waiting for the next TAXIS are unusually hard to fi nd, but bus or train with enough capacidades. I off er reasonable rates and a much faster found three hours to be plenty of time way of getting around. You’ll fi nd more to visit during my return trip from of them by the bus terminal. Trinidad, but a friend of mine that grew us there said I should’ve spent the WHERE TO STAY & EAT night to get to know the real city. You I didn’t overnight in Santa Clara, so I make the call. I’d still pick Cienfuegos don’t have many suggestions. Check over Santa Clara, but you never know. the guidebooks which will inevitably Nevertheless, this place is defi nitely be full of information. Don’t expect worth a visit. much beyond what’s available to Cubans. You’ll fi nd plenty of Casas if you need GETTING THERE one. Owners will meet Víazul buses. Monument to Che at Plaza de la Revolución. VÍAZUL has routes that go to Santa WHAT TO DO Clara from nearly every major town in MONUMENTO Cuba. Call the terminal of whatever is part of the massive Plaza de la town you’re in to fi nd out the schedule. Revolución located a short coche ride from the bus station on Rafael Tristá. ASTRO equally passes through Santa Th e most striking feature is an absurdly Clara numerous times daily. However, large statue of Che overlooking the most buses will be full or sold out and Plaza. Th ere’s also a museum detailing there were over 100 people on lista de Che’s life. espera when I stopped in. TREN BLINDADO is the monument TAXIS travel to nearby points at rates to the derailment of Batista’s military comparable to Víazul. Cienfuegos, $15- supply train on December 29, 1958. To 25 CUC. Habana, $25-35 CUC. You this day, people from Santa Clara credit get the cheaper price if you’re travelling Che with their liberation in connection alone because the driver will inevitably to his leadership of the event. You’ll pick up a few Cubans for at least part of need to take a taxi here from the bus the journey (who will also pay). terminal. Otherwise, it’s a short walk from Plaza Independencia. Monument to the Tren Blindado. SANTA CLARA // VILLA CLARA 13 CIUDAD SANTIAGO DE CUBA // SANTIAGO DE CUBA OVERVIEW train station. You also need to have your could end up on the regular train which SANTIAGO DE CUBA is located in the carné for the entire journey. Astro makes is not air conditioned and takes even Oriente region of Cuba and boasts itself the trip to Santiago in about 20 hours, longer to make the trip. On the day of as the true revolutionary capital of Cuba. despite whatever the schedule says, and it travel, arrive at the central train station A charming city with colonial aspects, costs about $120 pesos. On a side note, one hour prior to departure and confi rm this was my favorite place outside of people have been offered reservations your ticket. Habana. While the weather is warmer on Astro by hustlers who know that (by about 10 degrees, so plan this trip students can utilize it. While you will accordingly in a cooler time), the people save a lot of money, keep in mind that are more friendly than you can imagine you are literally paying so that you get and the food generally very tasty. Th ere’s put on a list ahead of a Cuban who has plenty to do here, so plan at least three probably been waiting days to travel. days if you want to see it all and actually have time to absorb the city’s fl avor. TREN ESPECIAL A true Cuba experience. A great way to save money, but a true waste of time. Th e GETTING THERE train departs Habana at sunset and is VÍAZUL is your best option. “El destino scheduled to arrive Santiago at sunrise, Th eTren Especial, broken down just one hour from Santiago. At least the view is nice! lo decide usted, la exclusividad la ponemos 12 hours later. We arrived 12 hours nosotros” is completely true. Víazul off ers late, making it a 24 hour journey, not CUBANA fl ies to Santiago several times you a true 11 hour travel time, fl exibility, including the time we spent waiting in daily for $110 CUC (you can’t by airline and comfort. Of course, it also off ers line for tickets. At any rate, if you’re tickets in pesos if you’re from the US or you the ability to pay an artifi cially high out of options, you’ll get there. Tickets Europe). It takes about an hour and half price to the State, $51 CUC one-way. In are sold 3 days in advance at Terminal and you can buy the tickets easily at the Habana, call 881-1108/1413/5652 for La Coubre and cost $72 pesos for clase Cubana agency on Calle 23 (La Rampa) the schedule, price, and if you’re lucky, primera which comes with a small snack. and Malecón. You’ll need your Passport. to get on the reservation list. Be sure to Clase segunda is $12 pesos cheaper, but take the express bus, which saves you you won’t get a minute of sleep. All WHERE TO STAY about 4 hours and operates overnight; cars are air conditioned to the point In general, I recommend staying at you leave Habana at sunset and arrive in that you’ll need long pants and a long a Casa Particular becausebecause yyou’llou’ll sasaveve Santiago at sunrise. In Santiago, Víazul sleeve tshirt. To get your tickets, get money and get to know a family. Call can be reached at (022) 62-8484. to Terminal La Coubre and get in line before you arrive to ensure that the by 7:00 a.m. (it opens at 8:30 a.m.). house is available and also because they ASTRO is great, if you have plenty of Th ere are three lines: Isla de la Juventud, might be able to meet you at your arrival time to wait and are fortunate enough Guagua/Astro, and Tren. Make sure point, greatly easing the normal hassle to get a reservation. You need to wait you’re in the train line! If you get there of getting into a city. While some places in person at the central reservation at 7:00 a.m., you should have your ticket will take your carné, always travel with agency in Habana, located at Terminal by 11:00. Be sure to emphasize Tren your original passport. La Coubre, a short walk from the main Especial or Tren Frances otherwise you 14 CIUDAD SANTIAGO DE CUBA // SANTIAGO DE CUBA CASA DE ESTER was my absolute even though I’ve never stayed there. It is MUSEO MUNICIPAL EMILIO favorite place to stay in all of Cuba. Ester located on Calle I No. 58 e/ 2da y 3ra. BACARDÍ is located on the corner and her husband off er a room with two Call (022) 65-3660 for reservations. of Aguilera and Pio Rosado and has comfortable beds, private bathroom with artifi cats and artwork relevant to the hot water, and good air conditioning WHERE TO EAT region. just blocks away from Parque Cespedes, Santiago de Cuba noticeably lacks the the heart of Santiago. We paid $20 many paladares that can be found almost CUC per night ($10 per person) which everywhere else in Cuba. Th at being included a fabulous breakfast. Ester is said, there is great food to be found for a wonderful cook, so don’t miss out on enticing prices. If you enjoy breakfast at the opportunity to eat dinner here at your Casa, try the dinner and you won’t least one night. Call Ester from Habana be disappointed. to make a reservation at (022) 65-1972. Th e house is located on Calle Heredia PALADAR LAS GALLEGAS is located No. 353 e/ Reloj y Caluareo. just a few blocks from Parque Cespedes Museo Municipal Emilio Bacardí and has delicious carnecero. We even got COLEGIO JESUITIO is where Fidel to pay in pesos with a carné! In CUC, went to high school. It’s worth seeing the prices are around $7 per person for and doesn’t take more than fi fteen dinner plus drinks, but in pesos you get minutes. You’ll fi nd it next to the Iglesia out for about $70 pesos plus drinks. Nuestra Señora de los Dolores. Calle Bartolomé Masó e/ Hartman y General Lacret, (022) 62-4700. Bring an CASA DE DON DIEGO appetite! VELÁZQUEZ was built in 1516 and lays claim to being the oldest standing RESTAURANTE CASA GRANDA is house in Cuba. Today, it hosts a museam located on the top of the Casa Granda with various types of artwork from hotel in Parque Cespedes and has across the centuries. Parque Cespedes. mediocre food at relatively expensive Dinner at Casa de Ester, one of the best meals I ate prices. Th e benefi t is a view of the city in Cuba. Don’t miss out on this! AYUNTAMIENTO is the white and harbor, which is quite impressive at building that you’ll immediately notice night. CASA “ EL MIRADOR” was a great at Parque Cespedes. Th is is where Fidel budget option for another group of gave his victory speech on January 2, students. Th e owner, Tony, has two WHAT TO DO 1959. rooms and will let more students than he A city rich just as rich in history as has beds stay there. Th e students paid culture, Santiago de Cuba off ers plenty BASÍLICA METROPOLITANA $5 CUC each per night, but had to share of opportunities for anybody to keep SANTA ILFIGENIA is a beautiful beds and did not get breakfast. Th e view busy for at least three days. Check the church that is worth walking through. It of the city is fantastic though. Th e house Moon guidebook, but here are some of was being restored as of April 2008, but is located at the top fl oor of Corona No. my highlights: is still open. Parque Cespedes. 603 e/ Heredia y Aguilera. Call (022) 65-8949 for a reservation. CUARTEL MONCADA is where Fidel’s CEMENTERIO DE SANTA revolution began. Formerly a military ILFIGENIA is most famous for hosting CASA “ EL HOLANDÉS” hosted base, Fidel and other revolutionaries the Mausoleo de José Martí. Be sure to another group of students and had launched a failed take-over here on July get there for the twice hourly changing- friendly owners. Expect to pay around 26, 1953. Fidel went to jail and later of-the-guards. You’ll need to take a taxi $20 CUC per night. Casa “El Holandés” exile, a fact many attribute to family here, which shouldn’t cost more than $5 is located on Calle Heredia No. 251, esq. connections, while many others were CUC round-trip. Hartman and off ers three comfortable brutally hunted down by Batista’s boys. rooms. Call (022) 62-4878 for Today, Moncada is a museam and school. EL MORRO is supposed to be very reservations. Walking distance from Parque Cespedes, similar to El Morro in Habana, so I just ask for directions on the street. skipped it. It has great views of the city CASA MARTÍNEZ is recommended though as well as a nightly cañonazo so by the Moon guide so I list that here too, it’s up to you. You’ll need a taxi. CIUDAD SANTIAGO DE CUBA // SANTIAGO DE CUBA 15 PICO TURQUINO // SANTIAGO DE CUBA OVERVIEW BEFORE LEAVING problems. Bring one liter of water per At 1,974 meters in elevation, PICO Finding information about the hike was person which can be refi lled near the top TURQUINO is the tallest mountain in not an easy task. A guide is mandatory of the mountain. Also bring plenty of Cuba. Making it to the summit is an and for that, the climb is $5 pesos per food (snacks and lunch). Don’t forget incredible moment. For most Cubans, person (with your carné). Don’t forget your camera and if you don’t have a standing at the top of the mountain to tip the guide! Without your carné, waterproof bag, you may want to bring a with the bust of Martí is literally the the price is $25 CUC per person. If you plastic bag to put it in case it rains. Bug highest point they will ever reach in their want to get the latest information, call repellent and sun screen if you need it. lives. During the 1950s, the mountain the Unión de Jóvenes Comunistas (UJC) saw plenty of action as the struggle to in Guamá at (022) 32-6219. If that THE HIKE overthrow Batista was based nearby, at doesn’t work, try the UJC in Santiago at Th e trail to the top of Pico Turquino is Comandancia La Plata. (022) 64-1312. about 11 km long with a vertical rise of 2 km (you start at sea level). At 4 km, GETTING THERE there is a small cabin where a family Parque Nacional Pico Turquino is lives and at 9 km, you’ll reach the top of accessed from two central points: Pico Cuba, where there is another cabin and Santiago de Cuba. From off ering you the opportunity to refi ll Bayamo, you can get to Comandancia La your water bottles and leave your bags Plata (day trip) and the hike to the top for the last 2 km. We started at 8:00 of Pico Turquino (overnight). Th e only a.m., summited at 1:00 p.m., and reached way to get there is by a private taxi. the base at 7:00.

From Santiago de Cuba, you can access the southern trail to the top of Pico Turquino. Again, this is with a taxi only. Note: you cannot access Comandancia Breaking cloud cover. Unfortunately, this means La Plata from Santiago de Cuba, no there isn’t much of a view from the top. matter what any guidebook says. You Pack lightly since you’ll have to carry have to go through the north, Bayamo. everything you have with you. Cubans Give José a call at (015) 230-6956 or told me it was cold there so I brought you can reach him through Casa de jeans and a long sleeve shirt, but I was Ester. $100 CUC will pay for your hot in my shorts and tshirt and it was transportation to and from the trail start a cloudy day. I’d leave them behind. A and he’ll wait for you there all day. Not a rain coat might be helpful, but you’ll bad deal, but not too comfortable either. probably be too hot to wear it even it Th e drive is about two and a half hours. did rain. Good shoes help, but I just Important: you need to leave by 3:30 wore my Adidas Sambas without any At the top of Cuba. I’ve never been so happy to see a.m. to arrive in time! José Martí! 16 PICO TURQUINO // SANTIAGO DE CUBA BARACOA // GUANTÁNAMO OVERVIEW Guantánamo. As of April 2008, the BIKE I’d recommend renting a bike for First encountered by Christopher price was $15 CUC each way. Call a day so you can explore the town and Columbus on October 27, 1492, them to make reservations and get surrounding areas at your own pace. Baracoa is the oldest colonial settlement the latest information at (022) 628- Th is should be about $3 CUC. in the Americas. Th e tiny town runs 484. Reservations are not available by right along the Atlantic coast and is phone in Baracoa, so be sure to make WHERE TO STAY your return trip reservation as soon as bordered in the south by the Sierra As always, my recommendation is a Casa you arrive. Don’t forget to buy some Purial mountains, making for beautiful Particular. Th ere are plenty in Baracoa on the ride back. Also, views not found elsewhere in Cuba. cucurucho de coco and they are all very aff ordable. Other be prepared for your arrival in Baracoa Indigenous blood still runs strong here students had problems here, but just be where you will be bombarded by people and Baracoa is proud call itself home of clear about when you plan on leaving and trying to off er you somewhere to stay America’s fi rst revolutionary—Hatuey— if you aren’t sure, only sign for one night or a taxi. Figure this out before hand to the Taino chief who paid with his life for at a time. leading an uprising against the Spanish make it less stressful. crown. One day was plenty for me to see the town and still have time for the ASTRO If you can get on Astro, great. beach, but if you also want to go hiking, Most likely however, it will be full and you better plan on staying there two the only way you can get on is through nights. lista de espera or by paying someone a few CUCs to put you on the list. Again, I recommend Víazul since you’re time is worth something and kicking a Cuban off the bus so you can save a few dollars seems unfair.

CAMIONES travel between Santiago de Cuba and Guantánamo and then between Guantánamo and Baracoa. Th e view from Casa de Rene y Nancy You’ll be paying less than $20 pesos for CASA DE RENE Y NANCY I stayed each truck and getting what you pay for. at this house right near the central plaza which featured one room with a large GETTING AROUND bed and another very small twin bed as Bust of Hatuey in Baracoa’s Plaza Independencia. BICI-TAXIS are the primary mode well as all the standard comforts like air of transportation here. Th e fare is conditioning and a bathroom with hot GETTING THERE either $10 pesos or $1 CUC per person water. I paid $7 CUC per night for the VÍAZUL departs Santiago de Cuba depending on how long you’re willing to room without food, but for two people in the morning and makes the trip to argue and how Cuban you look. $10 CUC is a fair price. Nancy also gave Baracoa in fi ve hours, with one stop in me coff ee each morning and really good BARACOA // GUANTÁNAMO 17 lemonade in the afternoons at no charge. day. Egg sandwiches: $2 pesos. Pork Give her a call at (021) 64-3272 to sandwich: $6 pesos. Melted chocolate arrange the visit. Th e house is located at with coconut ice cream: $1.50 pesos. Cira Frias No. 3, esq. Flor Crombet. Chocolate pudding: $2 pesos. Look for this on the main street just past the post CASA TROPICAL is literally right on offi ce. the plaza and has two or three rooms each ready for double occupancy. I RESTAURANTE LA PUNTA is believe the rate was around $15 CUC located inside the fort overlooks Baracoa per room without food. Call (021) 64- Bay. We had a great dinner at a modest 3437 for information. price, about $4 CUC per person plus drinks at the standard price. CASA “ EL MIRADOR” has two rooms available for rent with, of course, RESTAURANTE DUABA is located the standard amenities. It is located on inside Hotel El Castillo and seems to MonumentoMonumento HHatueyatuey wwithith a vviewiew of EEll YYunque.unque. Maceo No. 86 e/ 24 de Febrero y 10 de be a reliable source of local dishes. It’s MUSEO ARQUEOLÓGICO CUEVA Octubre. Call (021) 64-2647 or email a little bit on the pricey side, but may DEL PARAÍSO is located inside a cave a [email protected]. be your only chance for local food so it’s few minutes south of town. You can get probably worth it. Ask for El Castillo there on a bike, but get good directions. WHERE TO EAT and you’ll fi nd it. (021) 64-5165. At any rate, this museam has plenty of Food in Baracoa was very good and very artifacts to see and is recommended if I don’t remember the name of it, but cheap. Coconut is in almost all local you have time. there’s a restaurant right next to Casa dishes, but those are really hard to fi nd Tropical which has really good food for so ask your Casa owner if you want to EL CASTILLO used to be a fortress no more than $30 pesos. truly experience the local fair. and now is a pretty nice hotel. Walk up to the top of it for a bird’s-eye view of PALADAR LA COLONIAL is the WHAT TO DO Baracoa. only paladar inin BBaracoaaracoa aandnd aalsolso a ggoodood BAHÍA DE MIEL offers what Baracoa one. For about $6 CUC you can get is famous for—black sand beaches. A EL YUNQUE is literally an anvil shaped a great dinner with everything except 10 minute walk from nearly everywhere mountain (575 meters in elevation) the alcohol included. Reservations are else in Baracoa, this is a great way to and off ers great hiking opportunities. recommended. Martí No. 123 e/ Maraví cool off. After all, Guantánamo is the A guide is required, but shouldn’t cost y Frank País. hottest region in Cuba. Head down the much if you have your carné. Malecón past the stadium and you can’t CASA DE CHOCOLATE is perfect miss it. FUERTE MATACHíN is at the end of for breakfast or a snack in between the the Malecón and Martí. Th ere’s a bust of Antonio Maceo (who fought here) and a small museam.

Sunrise on the Bahía de Miel. Waves along Malecón. 18 BARACOA // GUANTÁNAMO GLOSSARY AMERICANO: Someone from America CARNÉ: Short for Carnet de Iden- COCHE: Horse-drawn wagon. Not a (which is two continents). Th is is most titidad which is basically an ID card. car! often used as a way of conveying pan- Cubans tend to not pronounce the last Latin American identity. part of words so “carnet” is simply carné. COLA: Line (or the soda). Th ere’s a line In this case, the pronunciation became for everything in Cuba and people are BABALAWO: A priest in Santería. a way of spelling too (both forms are always waiting. used). Once you get this card, make sure BÁRBARO: Cool/sweet. you carry it around with you everywhere CUBA LIBRE: Literally “free Cuba,” but you go. It’s almost as important as your in addition to being a patriotic chant, this BATIDO: Milkshake. Except there’s no passport and will get you into places is the original name for a rum and Coke, milk in Cuba. extranjeros normally aren’t allowed and at the very popular drink that originated on Cuban (peso) prices. this island. CABALLERO: Literally “cowboy,” but here it’s a way of saying sir. CARPETA: Reception desk. DIVISA: Convertible pesos (which replaced dollars). CANDELA: Literally “fl ame,” this is Cu- CASA PARTICULAR: Literally this ban slang for hot in pretty much any way translates to “private house,” but in Cuba EXTRANJERO: Foreigner. you could use that. this refers to a home which is licensed to rent rooms to foreigners. Often these are FERROCARRIL: Literally “railway,” but CAÑONAZO: Ceremony that signi- the best places to stay—where you’ll fi nd really means a system of tracks and trains fi es the close of the gates to the cities of the best accommodations, best service, that works to make sure you get to your Habana and Santiago. While the gates and best food—because people have a destination in the slowest and most inef- are all gone, they still shoot of a canon direct stake in you enjoying your visit. fi cient way possible. each night as a way of preserving tradi- tion (and attract tourists). 9:00 p.m. in CDR: Committee for the Defense of FEU: Federation of University Stu- Habana. the Revolution. A watch group that’s dents—organizes tons of events geared broken into zonas and serves the greater towards students including intramural CAMELLO: A custom-built semi that is mission of defending Cuba, but more sports, lectures, cultural festivals, and a type of local bus. Th ese came to Cuba realistically keeps an eye on people to concerts. Th ey also elect a member to the during the Special Period when a regular make sure that they support the revolu- National Assembly. bus was too expensive to import. Instead, tion. For example, the state doesn’t force Cubans bought Brazilian truck cabs and you to go to demonstrations, but if you FILIN: “Feeling” music aka slow and built a custom bed to carry passengers miss an important one, you’ll probably be romantic songs. that resembles a camel because of its two asked about it at a CDR meeting. Your humps. Recently, they’ve been replaced in CDR is your most important reference FULA: Convertible pesos (or foreign Habana by German and Chinese buses and without its blessing you won’t get a remittances). and you only see them in the provinces good job. now. CIRCUNVALACIÓN: Beltway. GLOSSARY 19 FRUTA BOMBA: Papaya which in had taste or fl avor. Today, this refers also means something along the lines of Cuban Spanish means something very to a small-scale restaurant run out of listen in conversation. diff erent. someone’s home authorized to sell food to tourists. Often, paladars will have the YUMA: Th e United States. Comes from GUAGUA: Bus. best food and service because they have the movie “3:10 to Yuma.” greater incentive to do so. While paladar GUAJIRO: Redneck. Seriously. operators certainly make more money than most jobs, don’t think that the Cu- GUAYABERA: Traditional button- ban state doesn’t get its cut either. down shirt with pleats and often four pockets running down the front of it PALESTINO: Someone from the prov- (two on each side). Th ey’re usually white inces that comes to work in Habana. Not and anyone who is an offi cial will wear exactly a compliment. some type of variation of this as their uniform. PEÑA: A social gathering often with some type of cultural purpose. Th e FEU HABANO: High-quality, hand-rolled sponsors a lot of these. cigar. PIZARRA: Black board. Every faculty HACER LA BOTELLA: To hitchhike. has one of these and it’s used as the In Cuba, put your whole arm out and formal way to announce events and other wave a few fi ngers or your hand up or information. down. Th ey don’t use the thumb system. Show something that makes people PURO: High-quality, hand-rolled cigar. know you’re an extranjero and you’ll get picked up in no time. RESOLVER: Literally, to resolve, but in Cuba this means to get by, doing what- JABA: Plastic bag. Impossible to fi nd ever you can do to survive, often meaning when you want one and therefore some- underneath the radar of the state and thing worth saving. therefore illegal. Th is is especially true of university students who receive a small JONRÓN. Home run (baseball). monthly stipend, but since they aren’t al- lowed to work (you’re either a student or MÁQUINA: Literally “machine,” but in a worker, not both) have to do something Cuba this refers to the old U.S. made to support themselves and often their cars to still cruise the streets. Particularly, families. this refers to taxis that are supposed to only be used by Cubans. Th ey travel TAQUILLA: Ticket or other similar type fi xed routes and pick up as many passen- of window. No tacos. gers as they can along the way (usually about 6 plus the driver). ÚLTIMO: Literally, last. Th is is most commonly used as a question: ¿el último? MOROS Y CRISTIANOS: White rice which is just asking who’s last in line. with black beans, Cuba’s national dish. Once you fi nd out who’s last you become Also called arroz congrí. the last yourself until the process repeats itself. Th is is the way Cubans have NORTEAMERICANO: Th e common adapted to waiting in line without actu- term used for people from the United ally having to wait in line. States. UJC: Union of Communist Youth. PALADAR: Literally this means pallet, but this term comes from the Special VEGA: Land where tobacco is grown. Period when Cuban food was at all time lows so it meant to imply that the food VEN ACA: Literally, “come here,” this 20 GLOSSARY PLANO DE ORIENTACIÓN RED PRINCIPAL

ALAMAR-MICRO X LA HOSP. MATERNIDAD LA CABAÑA P3 TÚNEL LÍNEA P11 VEDADO B TEATRO DE LÍNEA RAMPA NAVAL MELLA TÚNEL L ÍN E A COPPELIA HOSP. AMEIJEIRAS ANFITEATRO MERCADO DE XI Y 12 ALAMAR LOS RUSOS V. PANAMERICANA FESTIVAL BASE DE TEATRO LÍNEA LA PUNTA TAXIS POLIC. KARL MARX POLIC. NENÍNGER GALIANO ANFITEATRO ZONA V 3RA Y 30 H. VIEJA MUELLE PUENTE LA COPA HOSPITALES CINE PARQUE DE ZONA DEL VEDADO ASTRAL CABALLERÍA HOSP. NAVAL ALAMAR DIVERSIONES XVII MICRO X TERMINAL 23 Y PASEO RPTO. MIRAMAR YUMURÍ MUELLE 23 Y 12 GUITERAS 3RA Y 70 HOSP. LUZ PC PARQUE RPTO. PARQUE PLAYA 23 Y 26 EMERGENCIAS FRATERNIDAD 31 Y 30 KOHLY HANOI INTERMITENTE CINE ÓMNIBUS PEDIÁTRICO AMBASSADOR NACIONALES TNAL. DE ALAMAR CASA CENTRAL C. HABANA LOS A L 19 Y 44 SITIOS G ROTONDA ACAPULCO PARQUE TRENES E R COJÍMAR ALAMAR - LA NORMAL LA COUBRE S E BERROA PARQUE IO D LA ISLA DEL COCO ZOOLÓGICO CUATRO IC IO A RPTO. TEJAS F R L P15 19 Y 70 CAMINOS ATARÉS I E G P. FRATERNIDAD 31 Y 56 MITRANS D T E CHIBÁS E N R 19 Y 84 41 Y 42 HOSP. CEMENTO MORRO S E . O M IC 31 Y 66 COVADONGA L E L REFINERÍA HOSP. M. C O ÑICO LÓPEZ PLAYA HOSP. CLÍNICO LA ENRÍQUEZ HAIPHONG P BUENAVISTA QUIRÚRGICO MARAVILLAS LECHERA CUREF SEMÁFORO QUEREJETA PASO GUANABACOA LA CEGUERA CINE SUPERIOR ANFITEATRO ROMERILLO AVENIDA CERRO Y TOYO GUANABACOA NÁUTICO LUYANÓ LA PAPELERA ARENAL OBRAS PEDIÁTRICO PALATINO MARÍTIMAS FÁBRICA ALUMINIO EL MIKITO PUENTE ESCUELA LA CEIBA CIUDAD EST. FFCC NAC. DE ARTE DEPORTIVA COCOS LUYANÓ SIBONEY HOSP. ROTONDA SHELL P. MATRIMONIOS SANTA FE ALTURAS DE H. GALICIA VENTO ZAMORA EL LIDO BELÉN LA HATA FÁBRICA BARRIO OBRERO CEMENTERIO SAN AGUSTÍN - PLAYA EL PEDREGAL HOSP. REFRESCOS SANTOS 10 DE OCTUBRE DE LOS JUDÍOS MILITAR Y DOLORES PALACIO SUÁREZ CORREO VIRGEN DEL MONUMENTAL MATRIMONIOS P4 100 Y 51 RPTO. TNAL. TRENES SUPERMERCADO CAMINO 222 MARTÍ MÓNACO PORVENIR Y SAN AGUSTÍN DOLORES LOMA DE LOS ZAPOTES CUPET LÍNEA FFCC PLANTA DE ASFALTO SAN AGUSTÍN 51 Y 114 VÍBORA P5 TNAL. TRENES HOSP. FRANK PAÍS AUTOPISTA LAWTON PINAR DEL RÍO PLAZA DE S. AMALIA-VÍBORA SAN AGUSTÍN MARIANAO CAFÉ CAROLINA COLÓN CÍRCULO EL FRANCÉS P9 HOSP. MILITAR INFANTIL EL REPOLLO 100 Y BOYEROS CUPET RPTO. ARIMAO TIENDA POLICAKE DOLORES TRANSIMPORT VÍBORA BARBOSA SUPERMERCADO CINCO PALMAS LA PALMA DOLORES 250 RELOJ CLUB P10 PLAYA-NÁUTICO CUATRO POLIC. POLIC. RUEDAS LA CUMBRE LOS PINOS RPTO. LOS RUSOS 51 Y 250 CUJAE MANTILLA PUENTE 8 VÍAS CAPDEVILA CERRO HOSP. PELADO WOODBURY GARITA DEL ARROYO ARENAS NACIONAL IPK HOSP. POEY W. SOLER MANTILLA LA ROSITA BAR MADERAS CIRO FRIAS ESCUELA P1 ENFERMERÍA PLAYA NOVIA DEL QUINTA CANARIA LA ROSITA MEDIODÍA 100 Y ALDABÓ 13 DE MARZO SAN FRANCISCO SAN AGUSTÍN ENTRONQUE CUJAE HOSP. JULIO TRIGO LOS CAMILITOS LA FORTUNA RANCHO ELINA P14 P. FRATERNIDAD RPTO. CAPRI SIBONEY RPTO. MARÍA DEL CARMEN PUENTE CALVARIO

PUENTE RPTO. COMODORO RPTO. ELÉCTRICO / ANILLO SAN PEDRO FONTANAR AUTOPISTA HABANA-MELENA PALACE / LAS GRANJAS LEYENDA PARAJÓN PARQUE LENIN RPTO. POLIC. EFRAÍN MAYOR RÍO VERDE CASA ABOGADO ELÉCTRICO ALBERRO PARADAS DE LAS CAÑAS RPTO. ELÉCTRICO P2 VEDADO PARQUE INTERCAMBIOS MAZORRA CALABAZAR P6 VEDADO ALBERRO TERMINAL COTORRO BERENGER RPTO. ELÉCTRICO P7 P. FRATERNIDAD CEMENTERIO CALABAZAR PARADAS AEROPUERTO TNAL. 2 P8 V. PANAMERICANA BELLO PALMAR CONVENCIONALES NAZARENO ALBERRO RPTO. DINORAH ALBERRO NUEVO BOYEROS

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