The Eye Beach, Village + Urban Living in December, 2015 Issue 53 FREE MEZCALERIA MAXCAAL: ZAPOTEC WORD THAT MEANS MEZCAL. MAXCAAL IS THE FIRST MEZCAL PRODUCED ON THE OAXACAN COAST. TASTINGS IN THE MEZCALERÍA, LOCATED AT BUGAMBILIA 303 LOCAL 05, DOWNTOWN LA CRUCECITA. CALL FOR RESERVATION TO: CEL PHONES: 9581004360 OR 9581004703 OR TO: email: mezcaldelacosta@g mail.com www.mezcaldelacosta.com OPEN FROM 11:00 AM TO 11:00 PM, MONDAY TO SATURDAY.

EVITA EL EXCESO Once again, we come to the Holiday Season, a deeply religious time that each of us observes, in his own way, by going to the mall of his choice. -Dave Barry

Have you made your Christmas list?

I recently read that in Iceland, on Christmas Eve, people gift books and then spend the evening The Eye is a monthly all-English magazine reading. I was intrigued and wanted that is distributed throughout the state of to know more. Did you know that Oaxaca. It can be found for FREE at hotels, Iceland publishes more books per restaurants and community hot spots. capita than any other country in the world, with five titles published for every 1,000 Icelanders? Wow! Should you wish to receive copies, advertise or And they aren’t all reading them on submit some writing or photography please their Kindles- in 2009, book loans send us an email. at the Reykjavík City Library totaled 1.2 million — in a city of only This magazine is made possible by the 200,000 people. Then as though the universe knew I was advertisers so please thank them when you seeking information on all things about Iceland and use their services. books, an Icelandic customer arrived at my restaurant and confirmed his country’s love for all things literary. In this issue, our book columnist Carole Reedy lists her favorite books of the year. Just reading the list made me yearn for my hammock and a stack of new releases; the sound of book spines cracking, the feel of paper between Editor: Jane Bauer my fingertips and the light rustling sound as I turn the page. Copy Editor: Deborah Van Hoewyk Web Goddess: Erin Vig It seems the holidays and gift giving should be that simple. But they’re not. We live in such a consumerist Writers: Jan Chaiken, Marcia Chaiken, Brooke society that few of us have things we want, that we Gazer, Julie Etra, Erin May, Fran McLaren, haven’t already bought for ourselves. Most of us are drowning in our belongings; or stylizing them for those Leigh Morrow, Carole Reedy, Alvin Starkman, perfect Instagram moments. Deborah Van Hoewyk

What if instead of just posting on Facebook how much Cover Photo: Daniel Oliveras we like to support local businesses and how human connection is so important, what if we stepped away from our computers, put down our phones and didn’t go Photography/Art: Alvin Starkman to the mall this holiday season? What if we introduced Distribution: Renee Ciringione Biernacki ourselves to our neighbours and baked cookies with our Advertising Assistant: Casilda Mendoza Lopez kids? What if instead of getting new stuff, you got rid Layout: Jane Bauer of all the stuff you don’t need?

My Christmas list? What I really want for Christmas is Opinions and words are those of the authors for my daughter to make me a ukulele album- 10 songs and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of with her singing. When I told her this she rolled her eyes The Eye. and huffed with disdain- a reaction perfected by most 15 year olds... and books, of course, lots of good books. We welcome submissions and input. Happy Holidays! Merry Christmas! Happy Channuka! To get involved send us an email. Habari Gani! Happy Bodhi Day! Happy New Year! [email protected]

See you in 2016, Visit Us Online Jane www.TheEyeHuatulco.com In This Issue How Holidays Can Stop The Clock... By Leigh Morrow Page 8

Holidays in Mexico By Brooke Gazer Page 10

What Happens to Those Centavos??? By Brooke Gazer Page 11

The Art of Reading: Favorite Books of 2015 By Carole Reedy Page 12

Dressing for the Holidays in Oaxaca; More than Beachwear By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D. Page 14

Palmas Unidas ByFran McLaren Page 15

Imported Holidays in Mexico By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken Page 16

Your Handy Guide to Holiday Shopping in Huatulco By Deborah Van Hoewyk Page 18

Plans for Mexico City’s New Airport By Julie Etra Page 20

How To Take Your Pet To Mexico By Erin May Page 21

EDITORIAL PAGE 3 EVENTS CALENDAR PAGE 22 In , The Eye is now available at Books.

The Eye 4

The Eye Lecture Series

Bringing articles to life, we have planned a lecture series; here's what's coming up. All are welcome and the lectures are free.

The monthly lectures all take place on Wednesday, from 4:00 to 6:00 PM at Limon Bistro in Mansiones Cruz del Mar.

Volunteering and community involvement Wednesday, December 16th, 2015 A panel of volunteers and organizational representatives will describe opportunities for you to contribute your expertise and energy to projects in and around Huatulco. Discover how those contributions help solve local efforts to solve local problems.

Real Estate in Mexico Wednesday, January13th, 2016 Panel of experienced specialists and brokers describe everything from buying a pied-à-terre condo to buying land a building from the ground up. Mexican real estate transactions are a complicated “landscape” for foreigners—come hear from the experts!

Mezcal Wednesday, February17th, 2016 No longer the high-octane booze swilled under the saguaros, high-quality mezcal is the latest thing in the U.S., Europe, and Australia. Mezcal practitioners will fill you in about how it's made, what makes a great mezcal, and how to actually taste what they're talking about.

Weavers and Artisans Wednesday, March 16th, 2016 O a x a c a b o a s t s a n e x t r a o r d i n a r y r a n g e o f artesanías—hand-crafted products ranging from woven rugs and textiles to several varieties of pottery to the Marina Chahue, fantastic carved animals called . Find out how Huatulco these crafts are produced, how to see what makes a Tel. 958 105 1671 product authentic, and how to get the most for your Cel. 958 100 7339 money. Closed Mondays

Information: [email protected] www.cafejuanitamexico.com

Mezcal Contact us Educational Excursions of Oaxaca TM/MR to Advertise! While in the state capital, learn about this century's most coveted spirit by spending a day with recognized authority Alvin Starkman. Visit rural artisanal Contactanos distilleries (palenques) using both ancestral clay pot and traditional copper stills. For novices and para Anunciarse! aficionados alike. Sample throughout your excursion with no obligation to buy. www.mezcaleducationaltours.com [email protected] [email protected]

The Eye 6 Advertisement An Interview with Chef Eugenio Santillana By Tirza Bonifazi

Originally from Oaxaca, Chef Eugenio Santillana owns the distinguished restaurants La Toscana and The Cuche, a restaurant dedicated to Slow Food; he hosts the TV show Cocinando con Eugenio Santillana (Cooking with Eugenio Santillana) on Cable TV Canal 152. And if that were not enough, he opened the restaurant Hierba Santa in Puebla, and has now started Ocean Sea & Casual Food in Arrocito, Huatulco.

We had a chat with Chef Santillana for you.

What was it that attracted you to the kitchen? How come you decided to become a chef? Because when I was a boy I was very mischievous, I loved watching my mom cooking and when she didn’t watch, I took a pinch of food. Later on, when I studied tourism, I realized that I enjoyed cooking and that I had a talent for creating and a good palate, so I decided that my life was going to be in the kitchen.

Why did you decide to start this adventure in Huatulco? I have been coming to Huatulco a lot in the last three years and it is a paradise. So, what’s better than enjoying it, getting to share my food with the people that live here and the visitors.

How would you describe Ocean Sea & Casual Food? It’s mostly seafood cuisine but we also have pasta and steaks. The restaurant is unpretentious and relaxed, a great place to hang out with friends and family.

What is a dish at Ocean Sea & Casual Food that you consider a 'must'? I think an excellent choice is the Coconut Fish Noodle Soup, it’s seasoned with lemon grass, basil and coriander, and it’s refreshing.

Fine Dining Restaurant · Event Planner · Wedding Planning Open for lunch & dinner Closed Tuesdays

Cosmo Residences, Arrocito, Huatulco (958) 525 2241 - (958) 589 7237 How Holidays Can Stop The Clock...

By Leigh Morrow

o you remember your summers as a youngster- First loves, first kisses, first jobs, all are registered differently out of school for what seemed like an endless because of their newness. length of time, days spent lying on the front lawn finding faces in the clouds and jumping through "You always remember your first love," say the psychologists, the sprinkler in your shorts? It seemed that time but perhaps more for its newness than its depth or breadth of stoppedD and those warm summer days stretched infinitely affection. forward in endless joy. Eleanor Roosevelt said: "Do one thing every day that scares Part of that was our perception of time. Our perception of the you." While Eleanor was eloquently implying that to achieve passing of time speeds up the older we get. Some scientists say personal growth, it is sometimes necessary to move outside our lower dopamine levels cause us to experience time passing your comfort zone, it is a fact that fear is one emotion that slows more rapidly, but it may be much more than that. Young our perception of time down the most. When you are trapped in children tend to live much more in the moment as their brain an elevator or your car slides off the road on an icy stretch of begins to develop, and start to process and arrange a collection highway, your brain freezes every frame of the event and time of events that would suggest a passage of time. Scientists moves in Planck time, the slowest measurement of time. It is no have discovered that for young children, a random day is surprise then that adrenalin experiences like sky diving or zip perceived as longer because their experiences are new, and lining are often the easy placebo for aging baby boomers. They therefore the brain is more engaged. get a thrill and a rush by doing an activity that requires specific focus because it is unfamiliar and daring. So while they fly For us mid-life adults, the same day may appear as much as 8 along the jungle canopy, time slows down, and they feel alive! times shorter because our brain is usually engaged in the same mental routines and repetitive habits. By the time we reach However, adding seconds to our perception of time does not here, in our mid-life, our stimulus is often an endless loop of need to be as rebellious as leaping off the face of a building or "Groundhog Day" and that overstimulation by the same things swimming with sharks. It is easily achieved by simply going on renders the loop invisible. Your brain has mapped out those vacation, to a place where much of the surroundings are chores and routines like driving the same route to work over foreign. If your vacation is to a culturally different land, where and over so often, that it becomes disengaged from the present the sounds in the alleys and the smells from the street vendors moment. You are in a trance as you go about your day almost are vastly different from those at home, then time will magically oblivious to the changing seasons, the shifting light, the begin to slow, and wondrously you will be transported back to months of the year. With less rich and varied memories to map, those seemingly endless summer days, hands crossed behind we perceive the passage of time to fly by. your head in the long grass, finding faces in the clouds. Like a trapeze artist, we can swing off the hands of time and slow our Holidays, where you are completely removed from your present days down, by simply living each new and memorable life, perhaps visiting a vastly contrasting country with colours, experience we encounter on our travels. cuisine, landscapes and languages different from your own world, cause your brain to start firing and mapping these new unknown events. Time begins to slow, and days are thought to Leigh Morrow is a Vancouver writer who operates Casa feel longer. By the end of our vacation we feel like we have been Mihale, a vacation rental in the quaint ocean front gone for much longer than our plane tickets indicate. This community of San Agustinillo, Mexico. Her house can be phenomenon and the science behind it are called "The Holiday viewed and rented at www.gosanagustinillo.com Paradox" by Claudia Hammond, a British psychologist. Her findings show our ordinary day to day lives are so humdrum, we remember only 6-8 events every two weeks. However, on holiday, we are bombarded with different stimuli and experiences and we remember 6-8 events a DAY. Thus when we flip through the memory book of our last vacation, we have built so many more pages, we feel the vacation has lasted a long time, when in reality it may have been a short vacation of only a few days. Posada Chahue Memories, or more correctly the lack of them, explain why as Vegetarian Specialties we age we feel time is rushing by. Our best memory banking *Homemade Tofu years are typically from teenager to mid-twenties when we are Our famous freshly experiencing a lot of firsts. baked sweet bread

Open 7 am to 10 pm We accept credit cards No reservations required The Eye 8 RESTAURANT-GRILL THE PLACE TO BE French & International Cuisine RESERVATIONS 587 1157 Closed Sunday Located in front of the Binniguenda Hotel Santa Cruz, Huatulco

The Eye 9 Holidays in Mexico

By Brooke Gazer

exico is rich in Fiestas, any excuse for a party I find it a bit quirky that this country, which has a separation will do! Most people celebrate two birthdays, of church and state, offers Christmas day as an official day of the day of their birth and their own personal celebration but not Easter. After Christmas, Easter is Saint's day. Including statutory holidays I probably the most celebrated religious holiday in Mexico. The count 33 official days for festivities and following is a list of days which are not obligatory, but many celebration.M There are however, only seven official statutory employers offer their workers time off. If you hire a maid or holidays in Mexico. These are called “feriados” or “días de gardener you may consider offering them some of these days asuetos”. If you have an employee, you must either give them as a show of good will. the day off or pay them double to work on these days. This includes maids and gardeners if they would normally work for Jan. 6….Day of the Three Kings (Epiphany); celebrates the you on the day in question. The "Ley Federal de Trabajo" was gifts brought to the baby Jesus by the Magi and the end of the modified a few years ago to reassign some national holidays to twelve days of Christmas. Families exchange gifts and hold a a Monday in order to promote more national tourism, creating festive evening meal with friends that features a wreath- “Puentes" (long weekends). shaped kings' cake (rosca de reyes).

Statutory Holidays Feb. 12…. Flag Day, not a statutory holiday, but there will be Dec. 25…. Christmas Day, the birth of Christ parades to honor the tri-colored flag of Mexico.

Jan. 1….New Year’s Day, the start of a new year Easter Week…. Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday, and Easter Sunday. While not official statutory Feb. 5…. Day of the Constitution, celebrates the ratification of holidays, many employers offer all four days, some only the constitutions of 1857 and 1919. (This is observed on the Saturday and Easter Sunday or Friday and Sunday. first Monday of February as a Puente) May 10…. Mother’s Day, honors all mothers and it is Mar. 21….The Birthday of Benito Juarez, Mexico's most common for employers to give mothers half a day to be beloved president, who was born in 1806. (The Puente is spoiled by their families (Mothers Day is often celebrated on celebrated on the third Monday in March.) the closest Monday to May 10.)

May 1….Labor Day, This commemorates Mexico's labor union Nov. 1 – 2…. Day of the Dead; If your employees are movement. traditional, they may want to take this day to celebrate the passing of friends and family members. They will hold all- Sept. 16…. Independence Day, commemorates the beginning night vigils for the souls of departed loved ones, the night of of the War of Independence in 1810, when Father Miguel November 1 for children and November 2 for adults. Hidalgo y Costilla called the peasants to rebel against the tyranny of the Spaniards. It officially begins at midnight on Dec.12 ….The Day of The Virgin of Guadalupe. In Latin September 15 with “El Grito de Dolores”. America, the Virgin may be a more important religious icon than Christ himself. Nov. 20….Day of the Revolution, honors the Revolution that was begun by Francisco Madero in 1910 (The Puente usually Dec. 24…. Christmas Eve. Families gather on this evening to falls on the third Monday in November.) celebrate Christmas and have a huge meal at midnight, so especially women will appreciate leaving early this day in Dec. 1….Change of Government, only occurs every six years order to begin the preparations for this festival. when a new government is sworn in. The next change will occur in 2018. December 31… New Years Eve, This is also a huge time for families to celebrate with a midnight meal and employees may appreciate a few extra hours to arrange for the Tel: 958 581 0025 festivities. www.ecoyspa.com The following days are not official holidays but the banks are closed.

Feb. 24, the four days of Easter, Nov. 2, Dec. 12 Note: Many government offices close down completely from Dec. 12 (Virgin of Guadalupe) until Jan 6 (All Kings Day). Do not expect to get anything official accomplished during this time frame.

Brooke Gazer operates an oceanview bed and breakfast in Huatulco Discover Peace and Traquility www.bbaguaazul.com

The Eye 10 What Happens to Those Centavos??? By Brooke Gazer

hen you are at the grocery check out, your total is rarely an even number. Your bill might be $273.61pesos. At Soriana, the clerks ask you, Events to support UNA “Do you want to donate the centavos to …?” If you answer “yes” they round it up to $274. What: Brunch and Bingo NobodyW misses the 33 tiny centavos; in fact most stores just When: Friday, Dec. 4 at 10:00 AM keep it. Using those stray centavos, Soriana supports various Where: Marina Park Plaza, conference room charities throughout the year. This year, from July 1 through Tickets: Henriette Clays PH: (044) 958 583 7664 October 31, Un Nuevo Amanecer was the recipient and during Cost: 250 pesos which include a bingo card for 1 game. those four months the centavos added up to a whopping Extra cards will be available for 20 pesos. $76,785.97 pesos! Prizes will be donated by various local restaurants and business. In the small facility which is located above the hardware store “Ferrealianza” on Calle Jazmin, UNA helps a wide range of What: Blues on the Beach – disabled children in Huatulco and the surrounding Huatulco, Concert/Beach Party communities. Through physical therapy, occupational When: Jan 21, 2016 and Feb 25, 2016 therapy, and special education, they assist children with down Where: Latitude 15º in Chahue syndrome, epilepsy, cerebral palsy, hearing impairment, Cost: 300 pesos learning impairment and infants born with various respiratory These beach parties/concerts have become much and/or motor impairments. anticipated annual events in Huatulco with spectacular participation well in excess of 300 locals and tourists. If Rodrigo is 18 months old and has been coming with his mother there is any chance of being in Huatulco at this time, for the past year. His diagnosis is not completely certain, but mark these dates on your calendar. Look for more details some doctors in Oaxaca believe he has cerebral palsy. When he in the January issue of The Eye. began treatment at the center he was unable to hold his head upright, it lolled to one side or the other. This not only affected his ability to breathe properly but the strain on his upper spinal cord inhibited his ability to control his limbs. After a year of physical therapy he has developed 70% control over his neck muscles with a positive prognosis that eventually he will gain complete control.

At the same time little Rodrigo has severe problems with his lower limbs. They were turned inward at an angle of about 40 degrees and he suffers from severe attacks of spasms. Through Teletón México, his mother has been able to take him to the Centro de Rehabilitación Infantil in Oaxaca City once a month where both legs are put into plaster casts in order to straighten them and to prevent them from going into spasms.

UNA is working on his upper body while the doctors in Oaxaca are hopeful of success on his lower extremities. The treatments, therapy, and exercises he must comply with are not easy. Sometimes it is hard for such a little tyke to understand what is being done to him but this brave little soul endures as best he can. At UNA there are three other small children with similar neck issues and two Down syndrome children who also need therapy to support their heads properly. There is however, some light at the end of this long dark tunnel.

Josiline was a little girl with a similar condition. She suffered with severe spasms and was unable to hold her head upright. She was one year old when she began therapy at UNA and at age twenty she walks and moves more or less normally. Although she also has some learning impairment, she has come a long way to becoming self sufficient and enjoys being part of the baking project at UNA. This occupational therapy was developed last year. The goal is to teach skills which will allow them to earn some money and help them to live with some degree of independence. I cannot think of a better way to use those stray centavos. Kudos to Soriana!

Brooke Gazer operates an oceanview bed and breakfast in Huatulco. www.bbaguaazul.com The Eye 11 The Art of Reading: Favorite Books of 2015 By Carole Reedy

ecember. A time to reflect on the year's end and 4--Prayers for the Stolen by Jennifer anticipate the days ahead. One of my favorite Clement. Clement has written a novel based on mind games is to review books I've read this year the true stories of the women and their and investigate 2016's fresh arrivals. As Julian daughters who reside in a mountain pueblo Barnes reminds us, the pleasure is in the outside of Acapulco. Abandoned by their anticipation.D husbands, who travel North to work in the US, the mothers struggle to protect the young girls, Here are my top ten picks from the 60 or so books I've read this who are the victims of kidnapping by narcos. year. Following the list are the preferences of THE EYE staff, Brilliantly crafted, the book is told from the who are naturally avid readers. Presented not necessarily in point of view of Ladydi, one of the girls of the village. Clement, order of preference, though numbers one and two are indeed current President of PEN International, has created this world my favorites of the year… as a result of her usual impeccable research. A book well worth reading, for Mexican residents and visitors alike. 1--The four books that make up the Neapolitan Series by Elena 5--Black Girl White Girl by Joyce Carol Ferrante. The author claims this Oates. Reading Oates can be a full-time job. is really just one long novel, She's written more than 50 novels, in addition to divided into four selections: My short stories, novellas, essays, plays, and books Brilliant Friend, The Story of a New for children. I have read 20+ of her novels, and Name, Those Who Leave and Those this one, from 2006, caught my attention this Who Stay, and The Story of the Lost year. In Oates' usual mysterious way of taking Child. Ferrante masterfully creates the world of two eight- you to the soul of her characters, here she tells year-old girls in Naples and follows them through adolescence the story of roommates (one black, one white), and adulthood until they reach their 60s. The book received but the novel reveals as much about their well-deserved accolades from the critics, and the author families, especially the fathers, as it does of the two girls. received a lot of press partly inspired (ironically) by her refusal to participate in publicity for her books, which she says should 6--The Anatomy Lesson by Philip Roth. Every stand on the merit of the writing, not on clever advertising and year I read several novels by Philip Roth, who promotion. Ferrante is a recluse, in the style of J.D. Salinger, now in his 82nd year claims he won't write who gives no live interviews or appearances and does not another. This autobiographical novel was participate in book tours. In fact, Elena Ferrante is not even her written in 1983 and is the third to feature given name. Nathan Zuckerman as the main character, who here is stricken with undiagnosable pain in 2--The five novels that make up middle age. Not well-received by critics, it the Patrick Melrose series, also nonetheless was a finalist for the National Book intended as one long book, deserve Award and the National Book Critics Circle a tie for first place on my list. Award. In 2015 I also read Operation Shylock and The Facts, Wealthy and well-bred British citizen Edward St. Aubyn has both worthy of your time. As always, they'll make you laugh. written his autobiography in novel form. If you didn't know that this is his story, you might think the book too far-fetched 7—The Flaneur by Edmund White. US citizen to be true. Suffering from a sexually abusive father, a mother White lived in Paris for several years, and here who substitutes caring for others in place of her son, a wife who he takes us for a walk through the streets of sexually abandons him in favor of motherhood, and a period of Paris, which ooze fascinating history. White is severe drug addiction (it's amazing he's even alive), St. Aubyn's an incredible font of history, art, literature, and elegant and very British style is what makes this a fine piece of gossip about this well-loved city, all shared literature. The five books are: Never Mind, Bad News, Some elegantly. Since reading this book, a friend and Hope, Mother's Milk, and At Last. Mother's Milk was on the Man I often “flaneur” through the neighborhood of Booker Prize short list in 2006. (Coincidentally, St. Aubyn also Mexico City in the style of White (see November's published a satire on book prizes, Lost for Words, in 2014, issue of The Eye for a full account of these which he thinks will assure that he never wins one of the meanderings). I especially enjoyed the section about the awards in the future.) monarchy waiting in the shadows, at the ready to make their grand reappearance. 3--The Orphan Master's Son by Adam Johnson won the Pulitzer Prize for Literature in 8--Samuel Pepys: The Unequalled Self by 2013. Never did I think a novel that takes place in Claire Tomelin. This book received kudos from North Korea would mesmerize me as this one did. every member of our book club. A totally The characters are solid and fascinating, as is likeable man, Pepys, through the eyes of the tragic story of North Korea. Tomelin, gives us a glimpse of the period before and after the restoration in 17th century England that, like himself, is unequalled. The Eye 12 9--Let Me Tell You by Shirley Jackson. This Two favorites from Brooke Gazer: Gods, collection of short stories and essays never Gachupines, and Gringos, A People's before published is just a joy. Most of us History of Mexico by Richard Grabman. “This remember Jackson for her short story The book takes a unique look at Mexican history Lottery (published in 1948), which I read more and how it has affected the current culture. I than 50 years ago in high school freshman have read a few books about Mexican history, English class. It has stayed with me to this but this one included a lot of amusing date. The stories and essays of her family life in anecdotes that you are not likely to find New York and New England are funny and elsewhere, which really ties the past with the poignant. Jackson mastered the art of the story present.” The Art of Racing in the Rain by and essay in her productive yet short life, dying in 1965 at age Garth Stein. “A novel told from a dog's point of view. Some of 48 of a heart attack while sleeping. This is the kind of book you the observations and assumptions are priceless.” want to own and keep by your bedside to pick up for a quick enjoyable read from time to time. The selections are quite short The Eye contributor Renee Biernacki listed and snappy. For a lover of the grand tome, such as I, it's a Looking for Alaska by John Green as her refreshing change of pace…and each story put a smile on my favorite book this year. “John Green masterfully face. and philosophically delves into the labyrinth of forgiving. The characters are as audacious as 10--Purity by Jonathan Franzen. I haven't they are intelligent. The book is a roller coaster finished it yet, but for me Franzen's latest is of humor, suspense and sorrow. Don’t make any exactly what a novel should be: well developed plans because this book is difficult to put down characters, a plot with substories, historical and a great read from beginning to end.” context, and deep description of it all. Franzen is our Dickens, Balzac, Hugo, and Roth all st Last, but not least, two novels recommended by the editor, wrapped into one fine 21 century novelist. creator, and backbone of THE EYE. Thanks, Jane Bauer! Recommendations from The Eye staff The History of Love by Nicole Krauss. “This is Living to Tell the Tale (Vivir para contarla) a novel about the power of storytelling. The by Gabriel Garcia Marquez is Julie Etra's characters jump to life with Krauss' easy and favorite because “it is beautifully written, poignant prose. I fell in love with all of them.” evocative, and sensual.” Fallen by Kara Stanley. “This poignantly written non-fiction story is about a woman The Infatuations by Javier Marias tops Jan dealing with the aftermath of a work accident Chaiken's list (with grand hurrahs coming from that left her husband in a wheelchair and how me, Marias being one of my favorite writers). Jan his connection to music helped his recovery.” says: “The reader is well advised to have three books at hand--the English translation, the And one more, a recommendation from my original Spanish, and a novella by Balzac called personal editor from Chicago, Heidi Hough, Colonel Chabert. The original Spanish will help whose careful eye corrects my careless you understand some of Marias' wonderful scribbling: 2013 Man Booker Award winner The wordplay, which cannot really be reproduced in Luminaries by Eleanor Catton. “Set in 1866, translation. The novella by Balzac enters when gold fever (and all its permutations, both halfway through the novel, and the organization of its story as good and nasty) struck New Zealand, the book's told by Marias' character is even better than that of Balzac. characters are as diverse as the night sky as The theme of this story-within-a-story is of a soldier, long they follow their dreams, encounter success and presumed dead, who returns alive, and the effects on his failure, and form intriguing liaisons against the widow—now remarried—and his wealth, which others have backdrop of NZ's wild west coast. In a gold rush town called inherited. Ouch!” Hokitika, much mischief is afoot. I walked the town for a week in 2015, Catton's locations out my camper door, but you don't Courtney Family Adventures by Wilbur have to be there to be taken on a read of a lifetime.” Smith. Since June, Erin Vig has been reading this saga, in six books, which follows four Thanks to all who contributed to this final article of the year. generations of a South African family from the Wishing you another satisfying 365 days of books and reading early 18th century to the late 20th. Though a in 2016. See you right back here in January! fictional series, the novels are based on factual events. She says “The series is not what I consider light reading, but it is extremely enjoyable and enlightening.” Chiles&Chocolate Bringing Home Bubbie by Debra Gordon Cooking Classes Zaslow. Veteran EYE writer Marcia Chaiken Huatulco, Oaxaca shares with us this review, written for Amazon: “Ms. Zaslow has surpassed herself in this autobiographical, starkly beautiful portrait of five generations of women.She honestly describes her struggles with the pain and joy of providing comfort for her 103-year-old grandmother during her final months, while Tel. 958 105 1671 Cel. 958 100 7339 still dealing with the contemporary challenges faced by millions of women: two-career [email protected] marriages, teen angst, difficult relatives, and the nitty gritty of trying to keep a family in balance. I highly recommend this www.huatulco-catering.com book for all women who have ever been a mother or a daughter and all men who want to understand them.” The Eye 13 Dressing for the Holidays in Oaxaca; More than Beachwear

By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.

hat's the appropriate dress for a visit to the city How Should Tourists of Oaxaca? It doesn't matter whether you're Dress in Oaxaca spending an entire vacation in the state It is suggested that if capital, or intending to sneak away from the reasonably possible, both beach for just a couple of days to get your fill of men and women, as tourists culture,W cuisine, and of course mezcal. With the holiday to Oaxaca, should wear season upon us, the answer becomes clearer. Consider the clothing similar to that of cool December/January climate in the mountains away from urban Oaxacans. For men, the coast, especially evenings; and perhaps wanting to fit in a a shirt with a pair of casual bit more during an extremely festive time of year. How would pants or jeans. Running you dress back home, in order to feel comfortable both in terms s h o e s a r e a c c e p t a b l e . of not catching a chill, nor receiving a cold shoulder? S a f a r i w e a r i s a l s o acceptable, but one will It's important to remember that Oaxaca is a city filled with First definitely stand out, aside from skin color and camera around World character: theater, music, museums, art galleries and the neck. For women, just as Oaxacan women dress, of course fine dining; more than just crafts, ruins and colonial without feeling compelled to bring along a pair of heels for the architecture. So to this extent, Oaxaca is no different than New trip. York, Chicago, Toronto, Vancouver or Los Angeles – but with a Latin flare, often reflected in relaxed dress – but not beachwear Despite the foregoing, as long as one does not wander about in or cottage clothing. a sloppy t-shirt or tank top, very short shorts and flip flops, a more casual approach to clothing is quite acceptable for Acceptable attire is not the same in the city as it is on the coast. tourists. For example, leather sandals or other shoes Sure you can “get away with” wearing virtually anything, since comfortable for walking, longer shorts and a more casual top after all you're not a native Oaxacan and everyone knows it, if are absolutely fine. not earlier then as soon as you open your mouth. And yes, bringing along just shorts, t-shirts and halter tops, sandals For the evenings, formal wear as customarily worn in the US or and flip flops, may be just fine, certainly in most resort Canada is not necessary. Men should never feel compelled to environments, day or night. But the city of Oaxaca is different. put on a tie, for example. Even for weddings in downtown Oaxaca, trousers with sport jacket and open shirt is How Urban Oaxacans Dress acceptable, or a long sleeved guayabera without a jacket is Men in Oaxaca usually wear okay. As long as a pair of pants and a long-sleeved shirt is long pants and a shirt with a packed, men should be fine in most urban situations. For going collar. Footwear tends to be to the theater or out for dinner, even to Casa Oaxaca, Origen or leather shoes. Oaxacan Los Danzantes, the same attire is acceptable. For women, a women usually wear a simple cocktail dress brought along in a corner of the suitcase blouse and skirt, a dress, or might come in handy, but is certainly not necessary; a blouse a top and long pants or and skirt or long pants serve in most cases. capris, and either leather sandals or fashion boots, Touring the sights in the central valleys is a bit different for and even heels. While for both men and women. Walking shorts are fine as suggested going out in the evenings above. For footwear, certainly rubber soled shoes, running the dress is at times a little more formal, often there is no shoes or hiking boots are fine given that tourists will likely be difference. Frequently throughout the daytime both men and visiting ruins, hiking, and / or walking along the odd dirt road. women wear blue jeans. Respect as a Visitor to Oaxaca The only time one normally sees urban Oaxacans wearing Tourists ought to show a modicum of respect for those who shorts is on Sundays, attributable to the fact that Sunday is reside in Oaxaca. Of course it's understood that travelers often both a day off work, and a sports day with many men not cannot bring along an extensive wardrobe. But a grown changing after playing soccer or baseball with a pick-up team. woman in the evening in a tank top and short shorts, or a man sporting a torn t-shirt and sandals, is neither appropriate nor The Difference in Attire in the Towns and Villages in the necessary. Trust me; dressing a little more upscale than first Central Valleys impressions would otherwise dictate will make you feel better In the towns and villages of Oaxaca's central valleys, laborers, about yourself, more welcomed by members of your host craftspeople and campesinos wear all manner of clothes, and society, and result in a more enjoyable and fulfilling visit to anything is acceptable, dictated often by economics and type of Oaxaca. work. For the middle classes, regardless of occupation, dress is only somewhat more relaxed than for city folk. When Alvin Starkman operates Mezcal Educational Oaxacans from the state capital or Mexicans from further Excursions of Oaxaca abroad venture into the villages, either sightseeing or for (www.mezcaleducationaltours.com). When he moved to example shopping in the Thursday Zaachila market, they dress Oaxaca from Toronto in 2004, he brought 74 ties. Most a little more casual, with jeans or shorts, a shirt and sandals or have never left his closet. running shoes. The Eye 14 Palmas Unidas By Fran McLaren

almas Unidas Bahías de Huatulco AC is a non-profit organization dedicated to improving the quality of life for homeless cats and dogs in Huatulco.P The group, led by Roberto Dattoli and his wife Margaret Guerra, owners of the Hotel Plaza Delphinus at Chahue, began meeting monthly in 2014. In March 2015 the group became a registered civil association. Since then, the group has rescued and found homes for over 45 puppies, and with the help of local veterinarians Dr. Norma Rivera and Dr. Freddy Cruz, more than 41 additional animals have been sterilized and adopted.

In October the organization assisted at a four day sterilization campaign in Sector H3 sponsored by the municipality. During that clinic, eighteen dogs from the local dump and area were captured, sterilized and provided after care. In November Palmas Unidas conducted a four day free spay and neuter campaign in the area, at which 200 animals were sterilized. Educating the community about sterilization and proper pet care is also an important goal for the group. Since September, 2015, Palmas Unidas is pleased to be a part of the Organic Market in Santa Cruz. Many dogs and cats have found loving homes through exposure at the market.

Donations are needed to keep up with the ongoing sterilization and adoptive process. If you are interested in donating, becoming a volunteer, providing temporary shelter for a pet, or if you wish to adopt, please contact Roberto Dattoli at 958 111 3030 or stop by Hotel Plaza Delphinus in Chahue. Visit the group's Facebook page – Palmas Unidas Bahías de Huatulco AC.

The Eye 15 Imported Holidays in Mexico

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

obel prize winner Octavio Paz, an acute observer Saint Patrick's Day is a of Mexican culture, cogently described fiestas, holiday that has a deep “with their violent primary colors, their bizarre m e a n i n g u n i q u e t o costumes and dances, their fireworks and Mexico. During the ceremonies and their inexhaustible welter of Mexican-American War surprises:N the fruit, candy, toys,” as the very life blood of (1846-1848), around 200 Mexicanos. So it should not be surprising that many holidays soldiers in the U.S. Army in Mexico are relatively recent additions to the calendar. Some – many of Irish decent – deserted and joined the began as grassroots celebrations by immigrants or by Mexican Army. Various explanations of why they chose to do so Mexicanos who learned about the holiday when living in the have been offered. Perhaps they were driven by ideology, since U.S.; when they returned to Mexico they introduced the as immigrants who had experienced discrimination they practice to their friends and neighbors, and gradually the identified with the Mexicans living in the U.S. southern states. celebration spread. Others were adopted but given a Perhaps they deserted for economic reasons, since the Mexican completely different meaning in Mexico. And several were Army reportedly promised higher pay than could be earned in added to the calendar of observances by Mexican government the U.S. Army. Perhaps it was familial ties, since relatively officials who were not about to allow their neighbors to the large numbers of Irish had migrated to Mexico during the Great north pay honor to groups of people without doing the same. Famine in Ireland.

The celebration of Halloween in Mexico as practiced in the U.S. Independent of why they joined, the Irish and other European began as a grassroots movement. Although among some immigrant sympathizers formed a fierce battalion called the Mexicanos, Halloween is considered as noxious as an exotic Batallón de San Patricio (Saint Patrick). Under the leadership of weed that takes over a garden, the elements of Halloween fit John Riley and Santiago O'Leary and under a green banner almost naturally as part of the Mexican culture. North of the proclaiming “Erin Go Bragh” (Ireland Forever), the battalion was given credit by both Mexican and U.S. leaders for winning border, children wear costumes and go door to door asking for major battles in the war. Even current Mexican presidents sweets, and the corresponding option in Mexico is not “trick or toast the San Patricios as they raise a glass to them on Saint treat” but sweets or basura (garbage). (But money to buy Patricks's Day. sweets will suffice.) Valentine's Day is celebrated throughout the world and is an Common costumes in Mexico are black body suits painted official saints day, commemoration day, or feast day in many front and back with a white skeleton – outfits which have long Christian denominations, often including renewal of marriage been used for other Mexican fiestas. But local stores also carry vows. Valentine was the name of several prominent early a variety of Disney-inspired outfits. Little Mexican girls appear Christians, and there is no consensus among scholars as to to find princess costumes as appealing as their U.S. which of them is to be associated with February 14. counterparts, perhaps more so since when Mexican girls Archeologists have determined that there was a Catacombi di celebrate their 15th birthdays, their dresses resemble San Valentino in Rome that was the destination of pilgrims for Cinderella's ball gown. Teens and adults also wear costumes hundreds of years during the Middle Ages. The Valentino in question was buried there, and various theories ascribe the and go to Halloween parties, but rather than traditional fiesta th costumes you will increasingly see political or cinema-style remains to a 5 century Roman martyr or to the architect who designed the basilica outside of which the grave was located. costumes. The remains were later moved, and today relics can be viewed and venerated at the Basilica of Santa Maria in Rome, at the A Halloween activity in schools is pumpkin carving. Pumpkins Whitefriar Street Church in Dublin, Ireland, and in New in Mexico are dense edible squashes, unlike the almost hollow Minster, Winchester, England. jack o'lantern variety found in pumpkin patches in the U.S. So, carving is more difficult and odiferous here. When asked if the meat of the carved pumpkin was used for cooking, a friend replied, “Not after the kids have their hands all over it.”

Since Halloween closely coincides with Day of the Dead (see Eye, October 2012 article by Alvin Starkman), an ancient basically religious holiday honoring ancestors, the two observances are often confused in the minds of non-Mexicans and, increasingly, Mexican children. Since Day of the Dead is usually celebrated for three days, children are demanding to go trick-or-treating all three nights. This confusion will be intensified by the opening scene in the latest James Bond movie Spectre:007, which features an extravagant Day of the Dead comparsa (parade) in the zócalo of Mexico City. To the uninitiated, this may appear to be identical to a U.S. Halloween parade albeit on a grander scale. The Eye 16 The celebration of Saint Valentine did not have any romantic connotations until the 14th century. The first recorded mention of Saint Valentine in connection with engagement, marriage, Frida’s or love is in a poem of Geoffrey Chaucer around 1381: “For this was on seynt Fish Taco Food Truck Volantynys day / When every byrd Look for us in the park outside cometh there to choose his mate.” Only problem is – February 14 is not a time the Huatulco ADO bus station when birds would be mating in Tuesday-Saturday England, so Chaucer might have been 11.30am-6:00pm referring to some other Valentine altogether. And who can forget Ophelia in Hamlet: “Tomorrow is Saint Valentine's Sundays in Santa Cruz day/ All in the morning betime/ And I a maid at your window/ To be your Valentine.” From such literary works do worldwide folk traditions emerge.

Widespread interest in St. Valentine's Day started in the U.S. and Canada in the 1800s, when it was promoted by enterprising manufacturers of lace and paper cards as a means of increasing sales. Nowadays hundreds of millions of paper valentine cards are annually sold or made by hand in school classrooms, featuring hearts, Cupids, doves, and flowers. Plus millions of e-cards, love coupons, and printable electronic cards are sent each year. This has led to the snide reference to February 14 as “Hallmark's Day.”

Aside from cards, common gifts associated with Valentine's Day are chocolates (especially packed in heart-shaped red satin boxes), flowers (especially roses), jewelry, and Rolls Royces.

In Mexico, this holiday was genuinely imported from north of the border and has no native traditional origins. The name Día de San Valentín is known but rarely used here. The most common name in Mexico is Día del Amor y la Amistad -- Day of Love and Friendship, while in other parts of Latin America it is known as Dia de los enamorados – Day of lovers, or Día Contact us for all your del cariño – Day of affection. You will not find large displays of greeting cards in stores here weeks before the holiday, but legal needs! you will see real and artificial flowers, plenty of chocolates in red wrapping, and heart-shaped balloons with the words Te Lawyer Perla Vazquez Moctezuma amo or Felicidades. Around February 12 you may be able to track down one or two manufactured Valentine's cards, but Immigration Specialist of the type normally traded among children, often with the “o” Marina Park Plaza Local #9 in Amor shaped like a heart. Chahue, Huatulco, Oaxaca School children in Mexico cut out hearts from paper on Día Mobile 958 116 7292 Telcel de la Amistad and exchange a heart, a written message, and Mobile 958 107 3221 Movistar presents with their secret friend. The secret friend is chosen randomly by drawing the name of someone in the class, and www.consultorialegalvm.com part of the fun is trying to figure out who is sending you presents and messages. The most common presents among young students are chocolates, cakes, cookies, teddy bears, and candies. Older students may exchange hearts and flowers, or may organize a humorous celebration in the classroom. Huatulco Weddings For adults it is a day for expressing that you care about close friends, not just about romantic partners. If you will be taking your friend out for dinner, you will need to make a reservation in advance on that day!

There are other imported holidays on the Mexican calendar, such as Mother's Day and Father's Day, each given a uniquely south-of-the-border flavor. Given the numerous fiestas celebrated in Mexico, visitors are likely to encounter at Your Wedding Experts in Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico least one. Whichever holiday is being celebrated while you're here, we suggest you celebrate it with your Mexican hosts www.HuatulcoWeddings.net and enjoy the music, dances, fireworks, colors and sweets. The Eye 17 Your Handy Guide to Holiday Shopping in Huatulco

By Deborah Van Hoewyk

o here you are in Huatulco, and it's hot and sunny, The muncipal Mercado 3 de Mayo in and it's hard to pick out the poinsettias from the La Crucecita, located in the block bugambilias and flamboyants. Only a few between Guamuchil (the street that Christmas carols are making it through the runs into the main square) and mariachi Muzak at the supermarket. But . . . you're Guanacaste (the next street north) shortlyS due back in the land of holiday celebrations. Is it c a r r i e s a b r o a d e r a r r a y o f possible to shop for gifts that rise above souvenir status? Oh, merchandise, including food items. most definitely! In Mercado 3 de Mayo you can buy tequila, mezcal, and other liquors sometimes for less than in One stop shopping. Your the specialty shops; there is a wide array of Mexican-style first stop should be the blouses and woven tablecloths. Like the market in Santa Cruz, Huatulco Christmas Fair (La there's a lot of pottery, including the black (barro negro) pottery Feria Navideña), set for from and green (check whether the Sunday, December 6, in the glaze is lead-free) and multi-colored pottery of Santa María plaza around Café Huatulco Atzompa (both places are in the mountains near Oaxaca City). in Santa Cruz. Organized by a g r o u p o f l o n g - t e r m The trick to shopping in such chock-a-block conditions is to Huatulco residents, The Fair remember that these are partly mass-produced goods, that the will benefit a rural school in Talavera ware is vividly decorative but it's a knock-off, that the Derramadero, a village down colors in very brightly striped napkins and place mats bleed the coast near Pochutla; the like crazy, etc., etc. Then pick up something you like and Derramadero school has isolate it so you can really see whether it's what you want. This been adopted by sculptor merchandise is available in any number of smaller shops Richard Saunders and his throughout Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. wife, life coach and Hatha Yoga instructor Susan Better quality Mexican wares James. The Bacaanda If you are willing to pay more—you will definitely get more—you Foundation, which runs the can buy clothing and table linens produced locally and overall adoption program for imported from other areas of Mexico, in particular the Isthmus; rural schools in southern Mexican rugs; authentic pottery and alebrijes; custom and Oaxaca, will have a table of high-end jewelry; and specialty mezcal, the latest thing for artesanías that benefits all the rural schools, adopted or not. liquor aficionados. (New York City is reportedly replete with mezcalerías—Casa Mezcal, 86 Orchard Street on the Lower Artists and artisans from Mexico, the U.S., and Canada will East Side, also features authentic Oaxacan food.) have their creations on sale from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Here you can find work by established artisans like Freddy Bautista There's a lot of potential for Vicente, whose weaving shop is nearby (see below), or gifts right around the main wood carvings by master artist Lino Ortega Mijangos. There plaza in La Crucecita. will be icy glass ornaments by Colorado glass artist Mary Three interesting choices Ahlbrandt, artwork in different media by U.K. painter Fiona are Hecho a Mano – Hecho Nichols, pearl jewelry by Noemi Ortega, and embroidered en México, on the north clothing and bags from the Isthmus selected and sold by s i d e o f t h e s q u a r e Irasema Toledo, and much, much more. (Guanacastle 311), next to an ice cream place; Oro Another art-and-artisans' bazaar kicked off at the end of Verde, a coffee, tea, and chocolate shop on the west side of November; Baz Arte held its first market at the Amigos Haus Bugambilia, in the middle of the first block north of the square; hotel at Boulevard Santa Cruz 116 (past Hacienda Real, on the and Bioamigables de Huatulco, on the south side of way to the western beaches). Plans are for a monthly Guamuchil as you enter the square (at 208 Guamuchil, Local edition—check their Facebook page to see whether it's started 3). Bioamigables is your best source in Huatulco for organic yet: www.facebook.com/AmigosHaus/. products—they carry foodstuffs, cosmetics, biodegradable storage bags and tableware, and cleaning products. Among Local Markets. There are two markets in Huatulco that, with the cosmetics are some made by a cooperative in Mazunte that careful shopping, could produce quite nice holiday gifts. You arose after turtle hunting was banned. will not be buying top quality authentic merchandise, but with care you can find very attractive wares. Besides, it's fun to troll Hecho a Mano carries art supplies, particularly paints, that the stalls and see what's there. will let you do your own “hecho a mano,” as well as Oaxacan black pottery (including earrings), interesting alebrijes (look for The market in Santa Cruz is located between Santa Cruz the octopi in the cashier case), a wide variety of Day-of-the- Boulevard (the “main drag”) and the central park in Santa Cruz Dead figures, and brightly painted wood pieces. Oro Verde (anchored by Café Huatulco), and is filled with souvenirs and sells local organic coffee, grown in the environs of Pluma small things to attract tourists and beachgoers, including Hidalgo, in the mountains above Huatulco, as well as chocolate pottery, alebrijes (the fantastical animal sculptures that casera, or ground chocolate. Remember that Mexican virtually symbolize Oaxaca), and casual jewelry. On the side chocolate is flavored for preparing hot chocolate, usually with closer to the water are a couple of jewelry shops that sell better cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and often a touch of hot pepper. silver-and-semi-precious-stone pieces. Oro Verde also carries mole mixes, typical Mexican sweets, and handcrafts. A little farther afield, but still in La A short taxi ride or a twenty-minute walk (there's a big hill) Crucecita, you can find higher-end from Santa Cruz on Avenida Benito Juárez brings you to Plaza Oaxacan artesanías at the Museo de Chahue, a small mall that includes Century 21 Realty and an Artesanías Oaxaqueñas at Flamboyan Interjet ticket office on either side. At the back of the Plaza, in 216 (south side of the street, next Local 12, you will find La Fortuna, a shop that specializes in building east of the Oasis Restaurant). artesanías and regalos (gifts). La Fortuna carries a lot of onyx Here you will find pottery, alebrijes, pieces (lighting fixtures, vases, bath accessories), hand crafts, rugs, table linens, hammocks, and a a few consigned pieces of antique Talavera work, and pottery wide range of additional Oaxacan and stone animal figures, among other wares. La Fortuna has products. The two weaving shops that an irregular schedule, but has several numbers posted on the make table linens on site and sell door you can call to have the shop opened to look or to make a clothing from different regions of Oaxaca purchase. are Textilarte, a block farther east at Flamboyan 116, just past Carrizal You'll definitely need that taxi if (www.textilartehuatulco.com/), and y o u m i s s e d t h e B a c a a n d a Cre-Arte, one block south at 403 Foundation's table at the Huatulco Carrizal (on the southeast corner of Christmas Fair. The Foundation, Chacah). Textilarte is the larger of the known in Huatulco by its Mexican two, and carries an immense array of dry goods you can explore nonprofit name El Sueño Zapoteco, with the rhythmic clacking of wooden looms in the operates a workshop and retail background. Cre-Arte is smaller, but if you're looking for table store in Tangolunda, in the Centro linens, it has full-sized cotton dinner napkins in a variety of Comercial Punto Tangolunda (the colors. first set of commercial shops, across the street just before the Barceló Hotel). The retail store carries work by artisans There's an unusual shop, Maica trained and employed by the Foundation, crafts from other J e w e l e r y D e s i g n areas in southern Mexico and Central America, and some (www.maicadesigns.com/), at the west things—homemade soap, appliquéd aprons—made by end of Chacah, past Gardenia in the supportive volunteers to benefit the Foundation. There are middle of the south side of the block. things here not found elsewhere in Huatulco, plus the chance Carolina Schwarz combines skilled to learn about the Foundation's work with the rural schools design with semi-precious stones surrounding the resort. traditionally associated with different kinds of healing; she also makes Happy shopping, happy holidays! necklaces and earrings using both black pottery and colorful clay beads, as well as colored clay encasing beach shells. The shop also carries crafts from throughout Oaxaca, other Mexican locations, and South America.

Back to Santa Cruz. Perhaps the best collection of Mexican rugs and wall hangings in Huatulco, along with some clothing and woven bags, is found at the Tienda Cooperativa Arte Popular Zapoteco, a family shop run by Freddy Bautista Vicente. While Freddy weaves rugs on site, much of the work is done by his family up in Teotitlán del Valle, the town near Oaxaca City best known for its rug weaving. The Tienda, mostly referred to as “Freddy's shop,” is one of the stores on the ground floor of the Ocean Park condominiums, just off the park in Santa Cruz at Calle Mitla 402; Freddy is in Local 8.

Along the Dársena de Santa Cruz, the street that runs along the harbor out to the cruise ship pier, you will find some very expensive stores that cater to the cruceros, the people who come off the cruise ships to explore Huatulco. There is beautiful jewelry at Maria Bonita, as there is at Daniel Espinosa in the Marina Real Blue condos on Av. Santa Cruz as you enter Santa Cruz. More in line with smaller-but-nicer holiday shopping is the Galería Rubín at the beginning of the Dársena, at the curious Mexican address of Manzana 20, lotes 8 and 9. It's a terra-cotta-colored building with an open penthouse three floors up that is home to the gallery. Started by artist Susana Rubín, the gallery shows the work of many different artists, but it also has “tienditas,” small shops with crafts that would make great holiday gifts. Plans for Mexico City’s New Airport

By Julie Etra

e x i c o C i t y ' s Central to the design are airport is fast the symbols that occur on b e c o m i n g the Mexican flag; the o b s o l e t e a n d golden eagle (Aguila Real) inefficient, and and the serpent and the beingM a major Latin American building is meant to be a hub for business and tourism, celebration of Mexican the government has been monuments and culture. painfully aware of the need for a Circulation will be open new, modern facility for years. and easy and on one level, And having just flown through with 96 gates. The airport is projected to generate 5,000 direct Distrito Federal (D.F., Mexico City) on my way to Huatulco, I or indirect jobs for every million passengers and with the can personally attest to this need. Although Terminal 2 is not anticipated capacity of 120 million passengers per year, a huge even a decade old, the existing facility has reached capacity generator of new revenue. It is designed to surpass Atlanta, and planning for the new airport goes back to the Georgia, currently the busiest airport in the world. administration of Vicente Fox. Statistics show that in 2012 the Benito Juárez International Airport served a record 29.5 This state-of-the-art airport will be the first carbon neutral million passengers, by far the country's busiest airport. The facility outside of Europe and will include 100% recycling of facility has outgrown its location and as has occurred in many water. A LEED-certified and sustainable facility, heating and circumstances elsewhere in the world, the city has grown up cooling will be minimized due to the mild climate and ambient and around the airport since its construction in the 1920s. temperature in Mexico City throughout most of the year. With only two poorly laid out runways, simultaneous takeoffs Design is very site specific, taking into account soils, access, and landings are precluded, greatly limiting service. etc., and construction will be simple but very sophisticated using lightweight material and special glues to allow for large Construction of the new airport expanses of the dome exterior. President Peña Nieto has stated will cost $169 billion MXN that the airport also includes the construction of aerospace (approximately $10.2 billion US and aviation universities, as well as a new housing at today's rate) and will be able development. It will be built in two phases with three parallel to serve up to 120 million runways in the first phase and ultimately six runways, passengers annually when the becoming the 'crown jewel' of the President's infrastructure project is completed. It will be projects. one of the largest infrastructure projects ever undertaken by the country. Completion of the Contractors include the consortium of the Dutch company first phase is anticipated by October 2020. The group Netherlands Airport Consultants and the Mexican companies overseeing the project expects no delays to the commencement Grupo SACMAG and TADCO Constructora. of the first stage of the construction (I remain skeptical). Initial work is scheduled to start December 3, 2015, with site grading. N e t h e r l a n d s A i r p o r t Consultants was established in So who will finance this project, 1949 and has provided services where will it be built, who are the to 550 airports in over 100 designers, and what will it countries, according to its feature? Financing will come website. Services range from from the existing airport coffers environmental impact studies, and the Federal Government. interior design, retrofits, After analyzing all the options it security, and financial and will be built next to the adjacent business advisory services to facility on the shores of the airports. Clients include the airports of Abu Dhabi, Athens, ancient Lago Texcoco, a mere 10 km from the existing airport, Bangkok, Beijing, Bogotá, Cairo, Cape Town, Frankfurt, and not at an expanded facility. Initial costs are estimated at Geneva, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, Kuwait, Shanghai, and $169,000 million MXN (which seems low to me). The design Singapore. team is being lead by Foster + Partners, an architecture and planning firm headquartered in London but with offices SACMAG itself is comprised of seven companies including worldwide, in partnership with the FR-EE, the architecture Geoambiente, which is tasked with environmental protection firm of Fernando Romero, son-in-law of the entrepreneur and restoration. With over 500 employees it was responsible Carlos Slim. Norman Foster has a personal interest in the for overseeing the improvements by ASUR at the Cozumel project, since he has been a pilot since the age of 18. One of Airport. It also operates in Costa Rica, Puerto Rico and the Romero's best-known projects is the new, super sleek Museo United States. Information regarding its finances or its board of Soumaya. directors are not readily available to the general pubic.

The award of the design contract took place on September 2, TADCO has more than 25 years of experience in engineering, 2104 following an analysis of eight proposals over eight and management of major infrastructure projects including months. Foster and his firm actually sought out the much aeronautics (design and management of runways, heliports younger Romero to bring a fresh and intrinsically Mexican and terminals) in different states of Mexico, including perspective to the project. Veracruz, Sinaloa, Durango, and Oaxaca. The Eye 20 How To Take Your Pet To Mexico

By Erin May

a n y Some countries mandate that any certificate issued by a p e o p l e Canadian or US veterinarian have an official stamp. think of their pets For more information on bringing other animals and birds into as part of Mexico, visit the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection theM family and wouldn’t S e r v i c e s w e b s i t e ( U S ) think about taking an www.aphis.usda.gov/wps/portal/aphis/home e x t e n d e d v a c a t i o n o r t h e C F I A S e r v i c e s w e b s i t e ( C a n a d a ) without them. If you w w w . i n s p e c t i o n . g c . c a / a n i m a l s / t e r r e s t r i a l - want to take a pet with animals/exports/eng/1300388920375/1300388985791 you to Mexico, there are to find the latest requirements.During your stay in Mexico a few steps you need to with your pet, some other tips for a stress free stay include: t a k e b e f o r e y o u r departure. Bringing a first aid kit for your pet. These can be purchased at your veterinarian’s office or local pet store. If your cat or dog You are allowed to enter gets a tick and you are not near a vet, this kit will help you Mexico with up to two dogs or cats. If you are traveling with remove it. more animals, it is recommended to contact the Mexican Put your pet on heartworm medicine. Dogs pick up consulate or embassy nearest you for more information. Dogs heartworms quickly and easily when they are running around and cats younger than three months may not legally enter in rural places. Mexico. Give your pet flea control medication. Especially if you are hoping to keep your pet with you in the hotel or vacation Before you take your pets to Mexico, they are required to be property. This will prevent your dog from picking up fleas from examined by a veterinarian and have up-to-date the last guest. immunizations and you may be required to present the By following the above steps you will find it very easy to take following documents when entering Mexico with your pet: your pet to Mexico. Both you and your furry friend will have a wonderful stay! -A certificate of good health issued by a licensed veterinarian within ten days of travel. This certificate must be on the Erin May is the owner/operator of Mexico Vacation stationery of, or show the contact information for, the Rental and a distributor for Seacret Direct. She has a veterinary practice that prepared it. You must supply a passion for travel, the outdoors and all things Mexico. Spanish translation of this certificate. She spends her time traveling, living and working in -If you are bringing your pet from the U.S., you could skip the Calgary, Alberta, and Huatulco, Mexico. certificate and have your veterinarian record all the necessary information on the USDA's form, APHIS 7001, provided you can get the USDA veterinarian for your state to countersign it. The form says the signature is “if needed,” but the guidelines say it's required. This form must be translated into Spanish as The Eye Lecture Series well. -Proof of vaccines against rabies and distemper administered at least 15 days before the pet’s arrival in Mexico. V o l u n t e e r i n g a n d c o m m u n i t y -Be sure these documents are dated and that you keep an extra copy for your records. It is also important that they clearly involvement state your name and address in Canada or the U.S. and your Wednesday, December 16th, 2015 address at your destination in Mexico, include a complete description of your pet’s species, age and sex and state that A panel of volunteers and organizational your pet has been examined and found to be free of all representatives will describe opportunities contagious diseases. for you to contribute your expertise and If you are traveling to Mexico by air, check with the airline energy to projects in and around Huatulco. about their rules for transporting pets. It is also a good idea to Discover how those contributions help check with your hotel or vacation rental manager as many solve local efforts to solve local problems. places do not accept pets.

Your animal may be placed in quarantine when entering The monthly lectures all take place on Wednesday, from Mexico if you do not have the proper paperwork with you. Even 4:00 to 6:00 PM at Limon Bistro in Mansiones Cruz del if all of your paperwork is in order, if your dog or cat does not Mar look as if it is in good health, further examination by a licensed vet (at your expense) will be required before it is allowed to re- enter the United States or Canada.

The Eye 21 Calendar

Virgin of Guadalupe Las Posadas Dec. 6-14th Winter Solstice Night of the Radishes Dec. 12th (9 days) Dec. 21st Dec. 23rd Dec. 16th

Christmas Eve Christmas Day Full Moon Boxing Day New Year's Eve Dec. 25th Dec. 31st Dec. 24th Dec. 25th Dec. 26th Full Moon Oct. 27

On the Coast Recurring Events: Oaxaca City Recurring Events: AA Meetings: AA Meetings (English) English AA Huatulco, 7:30pm Remax Plaza, Every Wednesday Daily - Monday and Thursday - 7 pm English AA 6pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every Thursday Also Saturday at 1 pm - All 12 step groups welcome. English Al-Anon 4:30pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every 518 Colon Saturday Religious Services Weekly Markets Holy Trinity Anglican Episcopal Church Sundays 11 am Pochutla Market- Every Monday Crespo 211 (between Morelos and Matamoros) Liturgy followed by coffee hour. Information 951-514-3799 Yoga- Drop-in, by donation classes. 7am, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at Mansiones Cruz del Mar, Punta Santa Cruz, Huatulco. Religious Society of Quaker Friends Meeting, Saturdays 10 am Free All are welcome. For more information and location, contact The Eye Meeting- Tuesdays at 3pm, Café Juanita, Marina Chahue [email protected]

Weekly Markets December Etla Market, Every Wednesday Tlacolula Market, Every Sunday Saturday December 5th Huatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm Biking Oaxaca is More Beautiful on a Bicycle, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday, December 6th Sunday - 9 to 10:30 pm Free, Meet in front of Santo Domingo Church Christmas Fair Rental bicycles available at Mundo Ceiba, Quintana Roo 2011 Santa Cruz, 10am-6pm You must bring a passport or Oaxacan credentials. They have tandems, too!

Wednesday, December 16th Danzón The Eye Lecture Series- Learn about Every Wednesday - 6:30 pm Free opportunities to volunteer in Huatulco. Alcalá and Constitución Limon Bistro in Mansiones Cruz del Mar A tradition imported from Cuba, the danzón is a stately dance with Punta Santa Cruz, 4pm-6pm FREE syncopation. The citizens of Oaxaca gather weekly to dance and watch the dancers. Thursday, December 17th Amigos de la Musica concert Ethnobotanical Garden Tours in English Dreams Hotel 8pm Weekly - Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday - 11 am $100 pesos Entrance Reforma and Constitutión. Saturday December 19th Huatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm Bridge Tuesday Bridge Game at eMax Learning Center, Hidalgo 104, Jalatlaco, $20 Sunday December 27th pesos, no partner necessary, starting at 12 noon. Encuentro de Cocineros- Local cooks gather with sample dishes to raise money for local charities. 2pm Santa Cruz 100 pesos More Oaxaca Information: www.oaxacacalendar.com *On January 1st, 2016 the Oaxaca Calendar will close. A big thank you to Margaret Barclay for all her work!

The Eye 22