Issue 89 - August 2013 Next issue due August 21st, 2013
In This Issue... Jaycow Millinery
Maayke Weggeman
Myriam Vanhonnacker
Fibre Optic Hats
Spanish Exhibition
And MORE...
the e-magazine for those who make hats Issue 89 Contents: August 2013 Jaycow Millinery 2 Hat Making in Hong Kong Hat of the Month 9 By Maayke Weggeman In the Spotlight 11 Myriam Vanhonnacker Light Fantastic 13 Fibre Optic Millinery
Vladimir Stratícíuc 18 Spanish Hat Exhibition Letters to the Editor 21 Using Egg Irons The Back Page 22 Contact Us and More
1 Cover: Hat by Jaycow Back Page: Hat by Vladimirwww.hatalk.co Stratícíuc m previous page next page Jaycow Millinery Hong Kong
2 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Jaycow discovered millinery in 2004 and she has lived and worked by the motto ‘Hats are Poems’ ever since. We asked the Hong Kong based milliner, who is pictured on the previous page, about her life as a hat maker...
Where did you first learn how to make hats? I was working as a fashion stylist and wanted to take a break from work to do some travelling. I decided to go to London for a few weeks in 2004. As I wanted to spend my long awaited holiday wisely, I made up my mind to take a short course there. I did some research and found out that London College of Fashion were offering a millinery course. I did not have a clue what millinery was, so I checked the course description which said that it was making hats using traditional methods. Hand blocked hats sounded romantic enough for me - I have always like working with my hands and making things - so I enrolled on the course .
3 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Did you enjoy the course? On the first day of class, the teacher sent us to the block room to choose a block to work with and, sure enough, I fell in love with the hat blocks! They are so beautiful! My feeling that millinery sounded romantic was right. I had found my true love! During the course, I felt strongly that there was a fire burning in me and I decided I wanted to continue making hats.
Is millinery now your main occupation? Yes, I am a full-time milliner and I have a studio.
What materials do you like? I love working with parisisal straw, sinamay and lace. I also like experimenting with new materials that I source here in Hong Kong.
4 www.hatalk.cowww.hatalk.comm previous page next page What inspires your work? Everything. From vintage photos to movies to street fashion. Anything that catches my eye and gives a kick start to my creative mode!
Do you specialise in any particular hat styles? Not really, I make a lot of styles. I create ready to wear collections and wedding collections. As a personal preference, I like making cocktail hats.
5 www.hatalk.com previous page next page “My feeling that millinery sounded romantic was right. I had found my true love!”
6 www.hatalk.com previous page next page What part of the job do you enjoy most? The physical hat making process. The hands on creating of a piece.
And what do you enjoy least? Dealing with a client who says they will only wear a hat once for the races and want a discount!
What are your plans for the future? I would love to do more crossover work with fashion designers, creating hats to go with their collections. I have done a few collaborations with designers and really enjoy creating “the total look“ of the outfit by adding a hat. I plan to start offering millinery workshops this summer and also hope to be able to take some time off to study with another milliner.
7 www.hatalk.com previous page next page If you’d like to see more of Jaycow’s couture hats, go to www.jaycow.com or find her on Facebook.
8 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Hat of the Month by Maayke Weggeman
Earlier this year, Dutch hat designer Maayke Weggeman was contacted by fashion stylist Roxanne van Dijk. Roxanne had seen one of Maayke’s free form hats and wanted to borrow a similar piece for a fashion shoot.
“I wasn't given much information, just that they wanted a hat that would show an interesting pattern on the body when the sun was shining,” says Maayke. “Of course, I said that I did have some hats that would be perfect. To be honest, I only had one hat that would work, since you have to have a larger than average size hat to create a shadow on the body instead of just on the face. But, since I immediately had a lot of ideas, I asked her if it would be OK to send some pictures later on that week, giving me time to create a small selection of hats to show her. I went through my stash of materials, made a few sketches and made four completely different hats.”
9 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Maayke emailed some photos of the hats to Roxanne, Not wanting to take away from the natural beauty of who decided to use this interesting free form headpiece the material by blocking it into a specific shape, Maayke (below) for the shoot. Although you can’t tell from the decided to make a large oval disc which could be worn photo, this hat is made from pale pink abaca fibre which at different angles. She drew the largest egg shape she Maayke had picked up in a millinery supplier’s closing could manage without having to create any seams and down sale. “It had been lying around for quite some cut it out. She then wired the edges and bound them time,” she told us, “just waiting patiently to be the perfect with bias strips made from the same abaca fibre. As well material for something. It has a great texture and makes as giving the headpiece some extra stiffness, wiring the lovely patterns when the sun goes through it.” edges also made it possible to bend one side up to create the wavelike effect. Finally, Maayke covered a pale pink straw base with more of the abaca fibre and attached the wire piece to it, off centre to allow for more possibilities of wearing the hat in different ways. For the sake of the photo shoot, Maayke only used a comb to attach the hat to the model’s head. A hat elastic or head band could easily be added, however, for extra security.
Maayke has been making hats and fascinators as a hobby for about five years, although she took a two year break during this period to attend to the needs of her growing family. She began making headwear at home, using the How2Hats ebooks for guidance, and then went on to attend some millinery short courses.
“The teachers were always very helpful,” she says, “and it was great fun to get to know other hat enthusiasts. I still have regular meetings with a cup of tea and all sorts of delicious treats with some of the ladies from my first course. We discuss the projects we are working on or we go to hat related events together. Taking classes has given me more than just knowledge, it has also given me some friends for life.”
Maayke was one of a number of milliners featured in the HATalk 2012 Subscribers’ Special Issue, a free download Stylist: Roxanne van Dijk Photographer: Roberto Foac available from www.hatalksocial.com. Model: Laura Grootes of Fresh Model Management
10 www.hatalk.com previous page next page In the Spotlight Myriam Vanhonnacker
As chief hat maker of Compagnie Lilou, Myriam Vanhonnacker is always looking for new ways to give her headwear a magical touch.
Compagnie Lilou is a travelling French theatre can let her creativity have free reign, making troupe, well known for their enchanting outdoor hats and headpieces in every style and shape performances about fairies, goblins and all imaginable. Hats for the stage must stand out, things magical. Talented actors and actresses especially during night performances, so the work closely with highly skilled set designers, normal rule that ‘less is more’ does not always costumiers and light and sound technicians to apply. Myriam uses a variety of techniques to create a truly memorable experience for the giver her hats their own stage presence. For the audience. company’s latest show, Les Allumeurs d’Étoiles, which is translated The Lighters of the Stars, she As well as being a performer with Compagnie added strings of battery powered LED lights to Lilou, Myriam Vanhonnacker (above) is also their add to the starry atmosphere and complement exclusive hat maker. In this exciting role, Myriam the other lighting used on the set.
11 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Each of the company members is fully involved in the and Myriam greatly appreciated the opportunity to learn creation and development of a new show, with every from a master. artist bringing their own specific skillset to the table. Myriam says that this collaborative way of working results Using couture techniques and sourcing quality materials in a “logical fusion” which excites her and gives her all and equipment allows Myriam to make hats that she of the inspiration that she could ever need to create her can be proud of. “My first blocks came from Guy Morse- outstanding headpieces. Brown,” she told us, “and I look forward to the arrival of a new series of blocks from the same supplier. In today's As with all theatrical headwear, Myriam’s hats must be market, they give excellent value for money.” She likes to made to withstand a good amount of abuse and to block fur felt cones, which she gets from top millinery stay firmly in place, regardless of the wearer’s position. suppliers in Paris, such as Artnuptia or Schmid. Although In 2010, Myriam undertook a five week internship at the fur felt is quite expensive, Myriam finds that it La Chapellerie Atelier-Musée du Chapeau, the hat produces a much better result than wool felt. museum in Chazelles-sur-Lyon, to learn how to make hats using traditional methods. Her instructor had formerly To enjoy more of Myriam Vanhonnacker’s fanciful worked for Jean-Paul Gaultier and Maison Michel in Paris, headwear, visit www.cie-lilou.fr.
12 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Light Fantastic by Joanna Zara
Whether you’re making hats for the stage or just want to stand out from the crowd, milliner Joanna Zara demonstrates how you can use fibre optics to add some light to your own theatrical headpieces... It might be my seventies childhood, but I have always loved fibre optics. Recently, I have been experimenting with them in headpieces. As I am sure most of you know, fibre optic strands are extremely fine transparent ‘cables’ along which light can travel. They are now used widely for the transfer of digital information but I confess mine came from a novelty lamp bought at my local discount shop. The light source for the headpiece itself has to be very small, lightweight and discreet. LED lights are perfect for this as they can be powered by a small watch style battery but still provide a strong bright beam.
13 www.hatalk.com previous page next page I started the prototype headpiece shown here by sandwiching radiating fibre optic strands between two layers of fur felt. The strands are first bunched tightly together at one end by wrapping them around with florist’s wire. They are then placed on top of a 10cm diameter circle of felt (which has been wired around the edge) and, for the purposes of this prototype, held in place by a strong piece of gaffer (duct) tape. You can see the ends of the fibres in this first photo – they are glowing slightly because of the daylight coming through the other end of all the fibres!
A second piece of felt is cut to the same size as the first circle, but with a segment missing. This is placed on top of the first circle. The fibres are gently splayed out and then held in place by sewing together the two layers with small neat backstitches all around the edge. This is effectively the underside of the headpiece. The gap left at the bottom should be just deep enough to accommodate the light, because the bulb needs to be nestled close up to the ends of the fibres to get the best effect.
14 www.hatalk.com previous page next page I have been experimenting with different LED lights and, so far, I have found a ‘handbag’ light the easiest to use. It is small (only about 3cm in diameter) and is switched on and off by pressing the small button you can see in the centre, which means it can still be used even when covered by a layer of felt. Handbag lights can be purchased from online suppliers such as Lexon.
Because the light needs to be hidden but easily accessible (to change the battery), a small pocket is created for it by sewing on a final semicircle of felt. This overlaps the layer covering the fibre optic bundle, but the straight side is left open. This picture shows the light in place before the pocket was added.
15 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Bronxe - XQ I originally kept the base flat but, after experimenting by flexing the wired edge, found that a more dramatic and pleasing effect could be obtained by curving the sides of the circle upwards. The last step was just to attach the base to a black headband.
As I said before, this is a prototype and I must apologise for the slightly ‘unfinished’ look – partly due to the fact that I had to dismantle it to take these photos! However, I hope you will agree that it certainly looks its best in the dark...
16 www.hatalk.com previous page next page We certainly do agree with Joanna! This headpiece has some serious wow factor after the sun goes down. To see some of the British hat maker’s daytime millinery, visit www. joannazaramillinery.co.uk.
Joanna Zara isn’t the only one who has been exploring the potential of using LED lights on hats. World famous milliner Philip Treacy made the headlines with his SS13 catwalk show for London Fashion Week in September 2012 by collaborating with innovative designer Moritz Waldemeyer to create a number of futuristic light hats. To see some of their glowing creations, click here.
17 www.hatalk.com previous page next page V l a d i m i r Stratícíuc
Vladimir Stratícíuc, winner of our 2012 Diamond Jubilee Hat Competition, recently held an exhibition of his latest millinery creations.
Originally from Moldova, Vladimir studied Fine Arts in the Moldovan capital city of Chisinau, specialising in Textile Design. He then moved to Spain where he learned how to make hats and headdresses and set up his own millinery studio.
Vladimir is currently working closely with a theatre company in Murcia to create headpieces for a series of allegories about the four elements. This collaboration has presented him with some interesting practical challenges, as the performance includes lots of movement and dance. Vladimir also continues to design hats for private clients, including the Duchess of Alba, Cayetana Fitz-James Stuart.
18 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Vladimir’s millinery exhibition was held in June at the studio of artist Blanca de Nicolás in Sitges, a coastal town in the Catalonian region of Spain. Twenty of his hats and headpieces were on display. The artistic style of these photographs really captures the classic elegance of Vladimir’s work.
19 www.hatalk.com previous page next page To see more of Vladimir’s millinery styles, visit his website: www.tocadosypamelas.es. You can also read about his prize winning Diamond Jubilee hat in our special 2012 HATalk Competition Issue.
20 www.hatalk.com previous page next page Send us your questions and comments! Do Letters to the you have a problem needing a solution? Or information that you’d like to share? Editor... Email us! [email protected]
Question: How do you get the felt right down into the valleys of the hat block when you’re making a fedora?
Answer: It’s the dimples and valleys that give a fedora its signature look, so getting them right is really important. It can be quite difficult to shape and smooth felt into the hollow areas of a fedora or trilby block by hand, but there is a very useful tool which can help you to get perfect dimples every time - an egg iron.
Sometimes known as puff irons, egg irons have been used in the hat making trade for many years. The metal egg is designed to be just the right shape to fit into the indentations of a fedora block, while the pointed end fits well into sharper valleys, like those on a pork pie hat. To use the iron, you simply heat the egg in the flame of a gas kitchen hob and then shape your hat with it. If you don’t have a gas hob, you could use a portable gas camping stove to heat your egg iron instead. These stoves are inexpensive and are available from online marketplaces such as Amazon.
Egg irons have been quite difficult to source in recent years, but, with the increased interest in hat making, they are now becoming much easier to find. Guy Morse-Brown Hat Blocks sell their own superior quality egg irons (above). As these irons are made out of stainless steel, they will not rust or corrode and stain your hats. To watch a video demonstration of how to use an egg iron, click here.
21 www.hatalk.com previous page next page The BACK PAGE
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Blogger of the Month... The July HATalk Social Blogger of the Month is Helen Le Roy from Canada. A first time blogger, Helen’s entryThe girls in their finished cloches, included lots of lovely photos of felted hats and sparked off a great discussion on felting. Although written in June, we didn’t want to miss thanking Helen for her valuable contribution to the HATalk Social community. To find out more, log-in to www.hatalksocial.com and click on the Blogs tab.
Contact Us! Questions? Comments? Email us at [email protected] or post on our Facebook, Twitter or HATalk Social pages and we’ll be sure to get back to you.
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