Issue N.33 Year 5 Nov/Dec 2020 Price: GBP: 5.00 USD: 5.00 EU: 5.00 VND: 110.000

Celebrate! 2 3 CONTENTS

4 CONTENTS

► & Spirit reviews - 8

► Wine Person Peter Gambetta - 7

► About - 67

COLUMNS

► Alfredo de la Casa: ICelebration - 33

WINERY REVIEWS

► Chiiianti - 15

► Ramon Bilbao - 37

► Yalumba - 47

► Bruce Jack - 57

Published by Green Talent Ltd in London, UK. © Green Talent Ltd 2006-2020. Green Talent Ltd registered in England 05905795

5 6 WINE PERSONALITY: Peter Gambetta

7 Wicked Secrets Moscato sparkling rose NV Australia

This sparkling rose is a great rose of when simplicity can make a fantastic wine.

And it is not fantastic for its high complexity, it is not complex; not fantastic because of the top grapes used, we don’t even know which kind of ; and is not fantastic because it comes from one of the top wine areas, the wine maker does not even specify where is made.

It is fantastic, because it is gorgeous, easy to drink, even easier to enjoy ( you will finish the bottle by yourself before you notice), it is low in alcohol, so forget getting drunk too fast, and even though is on the sweet side, it is dry, so it is not only not overwhelming but easy to pair with food.

Pair is with tomato based pizza, salmon based dished, omelettes, and if you have a high acidic dish like boquerones it will balance it.

9POIN2 TS 8 Luzon organico red 2018, Jumilla, Spain

Bodegas Luzón is one of the main producers and exporters of quality wines of the D.O. Jumilla, and one of its most historic , producing wine since the late nineteenth century.

The wine growing area of Jumilla is located southeast of Spain, north of the region of Murcia.

The climate is continental, influenced by the Mediterranean sea with warm days, rain that do not reach 300 liters per square meter, and cold nights. The result is a harsh climate, which causes a thick textured soil and allows to obtain small grape bunches, with a good concentration of sugar, excellent acidity and thicker skins.

To reach the ’s origins, we must go back to 1841. Don José de Molina, commander of the Royal Armies stationed in the Spanish colony of Manila (Philippines), decides to return to his land Jumilla. It is then when he names his lands as “Finca Luzón”, in honor of the island where he was so long.

This organic red, made from 100% Monastrell grapes, is a joy to drink: fresh, fruity, elegant, without complications, and obviously organic. Fresh red fruits are predominant.

Pair it with red meats or even roast chicken.

9POIN1 TS 9 Maquis Lien 2010 Colchagua, Chile.

Maquis is one of the oldest wineries in the Colchagua Valley and has been owned by the Hurtado family for four generations. During the XIX century, Maquis was owned by two Chilean presidents who felt proud of their property, organized some cabinet meetings in Colchagua, and built brick bridges for their ministers to come. Remains of these old bridges are still present on the Maquis Estate. In 1916, Maquis was bought by the Hurtado family who wished to develop a fine wine business.

In 2002, after several years of refining the management of the , the Hurtado family built a new winery designed both to facilitate wine production and to enable the expression of the characteristics and personality of the grapes in the clearest way possible. Lien was Viña Maquis’s only wine for five years, and only later, master blender Jacques Boissenot convinced the Hurtado Family to start producing Maquis Franco, later Maquis Viola and then the Maquis grand reserve range. Today the complete Maquis portfolio is available in more than 15 countries around the world. Maquis Lien has a beautiful velvety red colour. On the nose, ripe red fruit aromas emerge from a floral background. In the mouth, its elegant structure relies mostly on its juicy yet intense tannins. The finish is long and delicate, due to its rich, natural and fresh mouthfeel.

9POIN0 TS 10 Cletus 2016. Tuscany, Italy

This wine is a blend of and . One of the many so called “super” Tuscans, that although nice, fails to deliver the superiority.

Almost impossible to find information about who makes this wine, probably and considering how heavy the bottle is, it may be one if the many wines aimed at the Asian market where more is spent in the bottle than in the wine itself.

The wine considerably improves after an hour of decanting. Expect musk andearthy characters in both nose and palate.

Ad for pairing, rustic pizza would go well.

9POIN0 TS 11 Stonefish Shiraz, 2018, Margaret River

Stonefish Wines is an Australian company producing wines that reflect the unique character and quality of premium Australian .

Over the last decade, Stonefish has made a commitment to providing excellent quality wines at competitive prices and is enjoyed by consumers across the world.

Founder and owner Peter Papanikitas has been involved in various facets of the wine industry for the past 30 years. Initially his contact was with companies that included Penfolds, Lindemans and Leo Buring, then he spent five years working for Cinzano, gaining experience in worldwide sales and marketing Shiraz grapes for this wine were hand picked at optimum ripeness from our carefully nurtured Western Australian vineyards.

The wine displays a youthful rich and ripe palate with red berries and spices interwoven with .

A well balanced, full bodied wine enhanced by soft tannins. An excellent accompaniment to grilled red meats and game dishes. Smooth as velvet.

9POIN1 TS 12 Bird of Fire Reserve 2013, Australia

Stonefish Wines is an Australian company producing wines that reflect the unique character and quality of premium Australian harvest.

Over the last decade, Stonefish has made a commitment to providing excellent quality wines at competitive prices and is enjoyed by consumers across the world.

Founder and owner Peter Papanikitas has been involved in various facets of the wine industry for the past 30 years. Initially his contact was with companies that included Penfolds, Lindemans and Leo Buring, then he spent five years working for Cinzano, gaining experience in worldwide sales and marketing

This elegant Botrytis Semillon is from the Riverina wine region in NSW, which is recognised internationally for producing Australia’s greatest award winning Botrytis wines.

This wine is no exception. A delicious aroma of mango and pear with hints of mixed nuts. The palate is rich and luscious with an explosion of peach and citrus flavours.

9POIN2 TS 13 14 WINERY REVIEW: ANTINORI

The Antinori family has been involved in the Each and every , each and every production of wine for over six centuries, ever separate area, each and every idea which is to since, in 1385, Giovanni di Piero Antinori joined be put into practice, is a new beginning, a new the “Arte Fiorentina”, the Winemakers’ Guild of search for higher quality standards. the city of Florence. As Marquis Piero Antinori likes to say: “ancient During this entire long period, thorough twenty roots play an important role in our work. But six generations, the family has always directly have never been a limit to our innovative spirit”. managed the wine business, sometimes bringing innovative decisions, but always The estates in Tuscany and Umbria, the historic maintaining, unaltered, a fundamental respect patrimony of the family, have been joined, over for tradition and for the territory in which they time, by investments in other territories with an have operated. important potential for high level wine both in Italy and abroad, in places where it would be Today the firm is run by Marquis Piero Antinori possible to begin working for a larger prestige with the support of his three daugthers, Albiera, and wider awareness of the family’s ability to Allegra, and Alessia, directly involved in the produce outstanding wine. work of the winery. The Marchesi Antinori firm expresses its Tradition, passion, and intuition have been the passion for by a constant search for three driving principles which have led the even the smallest areas for quality Marquis Antinori firm to become a leader in improvement. For this reason, continuous . experiments go forward both in the vineyards and in the cellars, seeking new clones of local

15

18 and international grape varieties, experimenting of the Antinori family. cultivation techniques, altitudes, fermentation practices an temperatures, For the first time in 26 generations, the modern and traditional fermentation methods, Antinori’s inaugurated a new winery designed to different types of oak for aging and different welcome wine enthusiasts inviting them to sizes and age for the casks and barrels come into direct contact with their production themselves, and different aging times before philosophy based on passion, patience and the their commercial release for the bottled wines continual pursuit of high quality. as well. The winery overlooks the countryside from a A story that began in 1385. A historical link with terrace surrounded by vineyards planted with the Chianti Classico region. A place where Chianti Classico’s most typical grape, tradition and innovation coexist in perfect Sangiovese, together with other varieties that harmony. A winery that reveals the past, present were historically planted nearby: Canaiolo, and future of the Antinori family. , Colorino, Nera, and Mammolo. A small area is dedicated to The winery was inaugurated in October 2012 international vines, and affirming the historical bond between the . Antinori family and their ancestral territory. The winery was designed for gravity flow vinification and to guarantee ideal climatic The winery was built entirely with locally conditions for wine production and aging by sourced materials, respectful of the surrounding using completely natural elements. environment and the Tuscan landscape. It Marco Casamonti, Antinori nel Chianti represents an important milestone in the history Classico’s architect stated:

19 20 “It is a sacred place of silence, a temple Marchesi Antinori have often entrusted the dedicated to the ancient rituals of , important task of documenting their family’s but at the same time it is a production facility values and history to the fine arts. that must meet specific quality standards.” The family crest is a masterpiece designed by Designed to have a low environmental impact Florentine sculptor and ceramic artist Giovanni and maximum energy savings, the winery is an della Robbia at the beginning of the 1500’s. unusual and fascinating structure. The family’s two passions are expressed and Practically invisible to the eye, the winery’s promoted by the Accademia Antinori in the field façade appears as two elegant horizontal cuts of classical art and traditions and by the Antinori in the Tuscan landscape and its most Art Project, a new initiative that focuses on spectacular feature is the impressive spiral contemporary art, established immediately staircase that connects the building’s three following completion of the new winery Antinori levels. nel Chianti Classico.

The Antinori nel Chianti Classico winery is part The Accademia Antinori was created to of Toscana Wine Architecture, an association increase appreciation and celebrate all forms of that unites unique and original wineries art related to the Tuscan territory and designed by famous contemporary architects. winemaking traditions.

For over six hundred years, the Antinori family A patrimony that the family wishes to preserve, has linked their name to excellence in the art of promote and exhibit. winemaking and as a passionate patron of the fine arts.

21

24 The Accademia collects, protects and preserves that unites under one special program annual artwork connected to Tuscan traditions. site-specific commissions realized by artists recognized in the national and international Their continual research and dedicated studies contemporary art scene as well as temporary have led to art restoration projects, the exhibits and seminars organized in publication of catalogues and art books as well collaboration with the various museums and as organizing art exhibitions and events open to foundations. the public. The family of wineries have been growing, and The Antinori Art Project was founded in 2012 at these are some of the other wineries own by the same time as the inauguration of the new Antinori in other parts of Italy: winery Antinori nel Chianti Classico. TENUTA TIGNANELLO The idea was to create a project that continued The Tenuta Tignanello estate is located the family’s art collecting traditions but with a between the Greve and Pesa river valleys in the new objective: to focus on contemporary art and heart of the Chianti Classico appellation., artists. between the two hamlets of Montefiridolfi and Santa Maria a Macerata, 30 kilometers to the The futuristic architecture of the new winery is south of the city of Florence. an ideal venue to satisfy visitors who are seeking fine and sensory In these 127 hectares (320 acres) of vineyards, experiences. the Antinori family, more than anywhere else, has expressed its principles and working The Antinori Art Project is therefore a platform philosophy: for contemporary art exhibitions and installations, organized by well-known curators,

25

28 reconcile tradition and modernity with wines hillsides which surround a splendid plain which which are strictly and authentically tied to their slopes gently towards the sea and create a territories of origin. Solaia and Tignanello, the micro-climate with unique characteristics. two iconic wines of the estate, have been defined by the international press as “among Guado al Tasso, the flagship wine of the estate, the most influential wines in the viticultural expresses all of the force and suppleness of history of Italy” and are a constant symbol for this corner of the upper Maremma. the Antinori family of a continuous challenge, one driven by pure passion. It has contributed to raise Bolgheri to the level of the most important areas of Europe’s PEPPOLI viticulture, expressing a decisively The Pèppoli estate is located five kilometers to Mediterranean character of power, elegance, the northeast of the Tignanello estate and and balance. extends over a total surface area of 100 hectares (250 acres), 50 of which are planted LA BRACCESCA with vines which produce the Peppoli Chianti The La Braccesca estate is situated in a Classico, an appellation controlled wine. territory once occupied by the estate of the Bracci counts, who gave their name to the TENUTA GUADO AL TASSO property and, as well, their coat of arms, an arm The Guado al Tasso estate is located near (“braccio” in Italian) covered by armor which Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast, 96 kilometers to holds a sword. the southwest of Florence. La Braccesca is just a few miles away from The 300 hectares (750 acres) planted to , near the boundary with the vineyards on the property are in the center of Umbria region, and has an overall surface area the so-called” Bolgheri amphitheater”: rolling of approximately 463 hectares (1040 acres)

29 30 in two different appellations, Vino Nobile di TORMARESCA Montepulciano and Cortona. The Tormaresca firm is composed of two different production units located in the areas of Two strong identities, almost two different greatest viticultural potential of region: essences, which, together, constitute the estate. the Tenuta Bocca di Lupo estate in the Castel del Monte appellation, situated in the wild PRUNOTTO Murgia hills near the city of Bari, and the Prunotto is located in Alba, the most important Masseria Maìme estate in the Salento area, the city of the Langhe district of Piedmont, pulsing heart of the region. equidistant from both and Barolo, in a rolling plain surrounded by the vineyards of SANTA CRISTINA both the Langhe and Roero areas. It is fully The venerable Tuscan city of Cortona occupies immersed in a beautiful landscape. the peak of a high hill not far from Siena and Perugia. The territory is fascinating and absorbing not merely for the scenery, the colors and the On one side a spacious plain, on the other the “silences” which it offers, but also for the hill and the city itself. This is the view which can historical testimony and the traditions which be enjoyed from the new Santa Cristina cellars, characterize it. constructed in 2006 – 60 years after the first production. The entire zone, with its castles and medieval villages, conserves an artistic and architectural Santa Cristina, over time, has become a patrimony, which are among the most important reference point for members of the trade, and and special ointhe Piedmont region. others as well, for its constant commitment to quality.

31 32 By ALFREDO DE LA CASA

CELEBRATION WINES

When thinking about getting a bottle of wine to why I do so. celebrate, that being Christmas a birthday or something else, most people automatically think For most of us when celebrating a big meal is about or sparkling wines. part of it, and usually unless you are vegetarian or pescatarian, a good meat will be part of it, The Champagne and companies have which tends to be the man/star course and not invested a lot and for a long period of time so likely to be nicely paired with sparkling. that we associate celebrations with bubbles, but why should we? Although I personally like bubbles they tend to be either highly acidic, for a good Champagne We can easily celebrate, and in fact have a specially brut nature or blanc de blancs, or wonderful time by celebrating with a still wine, terribly sweet. and here are some suggestions and reasons

33 34 In either case there is only so much I can drink I usually start light, with a nice Monastrell from of it before getting tired and/or suffering. Jumilla, or a blend from Navarra or Chainti, and then build up to bigger boys like those from So I like to start celebrations with a glass or two Barossa, Ribera de Duero, Barolo or Brunello . of white or rose, with many options available to go with or without food. It is all about what you and your guests prefer to have. A nice Albarino, or a Rueda are usually a great way to start, but also are Chablis, Gruner As for dessert, I usually favour a nice aged red Vertliner or a nice glass of rose from Provence with cheese, but I will not say no to an Oloroso or Navarra. or a , not to mention a good Port.

But considering that inmost countries people prefer red to any other colour, what should we choose?

Depending on whether we are having food or not, and what food, the selection will vary.

The number of bottles to be opened will also drive whether you choose a wine that will be okish with almost everything like a nice Crianza, or pair a different bottle with each course.

35 36 WINERY REVIEW: RAMON BILBAO

Bodegas Ramón Bilbao was founded in 1924 in born in 1876, embarking upon the journey of his the town of Haro, Wine Capital of Rioja. life, as well as our very history.

Today they have 240 ha of our own vineyards, Ramón’s family were not poor, but nor were split between Rioja and Rueda, plus another they swimming in abundance. 900 ha which we control in the main quality districts of the D.O.Ca Rioja and the D.O. In those years, the people of Etxebarri mostly Rueda. worked in fishing, although there began to be signs of some prosperity with the expansion of For this task they have a team of viticulture the iron and steel industry. specialists which works with respect for the land and tends the vines using natural methods. As Ramón Bilbao grew, so did his creative and business-minded spirit, and he watched eagerly Their love of wine above all else, combined with as the region progressed, beginning to wonder a non-conformist spirit which can be seen in the if he too might become a winemaker himself. innovation and the new way of looking at the “”, has managed to surprise critics and He would only need the will, courage, consumers, becoming an oenological point of imagination and perhaps a few drops of luck. reference around the world and making their Ramón began working in a café in Etxebarri, wines the biggest sellers in Spanish bars and excited to save enough money to set up his restaurants. own business.

In the small town of Etxebarri, now absorbed by the Biscayan capital, Ramón Bilbao Murga was

37

Encouraged by an uncle of his who worked in harvest. the wine and cereal trade, he decided to move to Anguciana, a small village 5km from Haro. In 1929, just five years after opening the bodega, Ramón passed away, leaving a dream The beginning was very tough, since the come true to his son Enrique Bilbao – a dream phylloxera hit Rioja, destroying the vineyards. that is still kept alive today inside every bottle of Ramón Bilbao, just waiting to be discovered. Nonetheless, Ramón pushed on with courage and determination, and in 1899 he took his “We are what we do, what we build each day for warehouse to Haro. those who will come later. We are passion, effort, attitude, innovation. We are wine, As of 1914, Ramón lived in Haro with his wife sensation, character, surprise. We know what and three children. we are, but we are working for what we could become tomorrow” There, he opened a grain warehouse and bought several plots of land along the road to A journey, a dream, which dates back to the Casalarreina where he began to plant streets of Haro where the first wine was sold in grapevines. 1896. Ramón Bilbao begins his own adventure and he 1920s were truly happy years for Ramón founds his Bodega in Haro, Rioja wine capital. Bilbao. In addition to the grain warehouse and A path passed down from generation to the vineyards already in his possession, he generation until 1966, the year when the opened a bodega in 1924 in Cuevas Street in founder of this dream, Ramón Bilbao Pozo, died Haro, which reaped 124,857kg in its first without leaving an heir.

40 41

With this union among the vines, they have From a small event to the grand international managed to maintain something more than a contests where the best wines in the world are project, an idea for life which in 1971 became a brought together, Bodegas Ramón Bilbao Limited Company. always surprise with the unique and singular style of our wines. A constantly changing journey, accompanied since 1999 by the family business Diego Discover our wines is an experience which goes Zamora S.A beyond enjoying the aroma and the taste of each of them. It also e means going on a In 2014, in addition to the many accolades journey to our vineyards in La Rioja and feeling already received, the IWSC awarded the prize hither to unknown emotions. of “Best Spanish Bodega”; in 2020 Drinks chose it as world’s most admired Rioja winery. In Ramón Bilbao, what inspires us every day is our desire to produce wines with a unique “On this journey in which we are immersed, we personality. A desire which has led us to make a daily effort, step by step, trying to deepen our understanding of our vineyards, achieve perfection. But on journeys there is also from those situated at the highest altitude to time for celebrations; that is when we stop for a others in a dream location in La Rioja’s more while, a short while, to congratulate ourselves Mediterranean-style area. on all we have achieved. This desire for a better knowledge of our land, We have been making wine for over 90 years, together with the innovation projects we are and during this time, we have obtained working on in the , such as research numerous prizes and accolades which into and selection of our own yeasts or recognise the quality of our products, at both precision viticulture, make each day a new and national and international level. exciting step in our journey.

44 45 46 WINERY REVIEW: YALUMBA

From the first planting in 1849, six generations excel at it, from the vines to the wood used in have embraced the magnificent unknown the barrels, which is rather unique.

This family winery with 165 years of history is They also experiment with new grapes and new experiencing its 5th generation running it, and blends, and in fact they were the first to although it had humble beginnings, it has commercialise Australian , including a become one of the best estates with 100% organic viognier wine. international reputation. With 1.400 hectares of vineyards, Yalumba Yalumba has different vineyards which they keeps growing by buying interesting small have selected for their micro climates and vineyards and having partnerships with small specific characteristics, allowing them to make growers, and they currently have over 40 different, while great wines. Barossa, Clare different wines under the Yalumba label alone. Valley, Riveland or even Tasmania, are just a few of the areas where Yalumba grow wine With over 165 years of history making wine, grapes. Yalumba enjoys challenges as well as trying new things, while experimenting with grapes, They even have some vineyards in New soil types, and even oak. Zealand, Yalumba being the first Australian family to invest in Marlborough. They look for wines which over deliver, to be enjoyed on their own, but also adaptable with This innovative winery even makes its own food. barrels and owns its own wine nursery, giving them the ability to decide what they do and They craft from ready to drink wines like the

47

50 the Strapper, to others more complex which are Under the moonlight, in the heart of the designed to be cellared for 20 or 30 years. Barossa, he set in place not just the first of many generations of vines, but a philosophy Yalumba the Signature is a good example of the that still holds true today. latter, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and from Barossa, probably the best blend of the A genuine respect for the land and a willingness winery which is only made when the quality of to venture into the unknown. the grapes is excellent, this wine has been made since 1962, and each year is dedicated to They have always had a deep connection to the a different employee, this wine has 20 months Barossa. of oak in barrels made by the winery. Their long-term vision is manifested in their Yalumba has been fiercely independent, family marble and sandstone Clocktower; a solid owned winemakers since 1849, showcasing the monument to their commitment to the region. best of the Barossa. Their Yalumba Cooperage also shows this For six generations they have embraced the passion. magnificent unknown, letting the land lead the way, and growing our vines with as little It is where they continue the proud tradition of interference as possible. crafting oak barrels and it is the only one of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere. Yalumba started with the planting of vines in 1849, by founder Samuel Smith. Third generation Fred Caley Smith, took to the seas on a grand scientific discovery in 1893 and

51

54 returned with progressive horticultural developments that laid the foundation of sustainable viticulture and winemaking at Yalumba today.

They honour his spirit of innovation with their flagship blend The Caley Cabernet & Shiraz. The Great Australian Red

The blending of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz is a distinctly Australian winemaking practice, producing striking reds that cannot be replicated in France, Germany or Italy due to strict controls around regional blending.

Since the 1800s they have been one of the most dedicated pioneers of this method.

The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz is a prime example.

A coming together of The Great Australian Red, and their core philosophy. With no set formula, we have embraced the magnificent unknown to create a unique and surprising vintage since 1961.

55 56 WINERY REVIEW: BRUCE JACK

Value is the master of every wine. The Lifestyle careful blending of small parcels of excellence collection is obsessed with delivering world- from high-altitude, dry-grown, cool climate beating value for money. vineyards.

We do this by blending from many different, While usually extremely expensive, these small specially identified vineyards in different parcels add an extra dimension when blended climates and with differing soils. in just the right way – this is where the winemaker’s art comes into the craft of The art of blending drives the delicious balance winemaking.” and complexity of these yummy wines. The Bruce Jack brand reflects a special The Bruce Jack wines currently all come from moment in time where experience intersects South Africa. My vineyard partner in this venture with ambition. When you are young, ambition is a company called uniWines Vineyards, based fires you along like a rocket. Boundless energy in the Bredekloof Valley, an hour’s drive north of and naivety seem sufficient to blast you through Cape Town. any obstacle…

In time their plan is to craft Bruce Jack wines Then you have a few crashes – such is life. But from Chile, Spain, Australia and France, but for all the lessons learnt along this journey equip now they are sticking with their home soil. you. At some stage you are meant to run out of energy – that’s how the body and mind work. “We are able to craft wines of complexity, With some luck and to compensate for failing character, balance, intrigue, yumminess and eyesight and dulled synapses, we are handed nuance at a “Lifestyle” price point through the gift of wisdom.

57

60 Observe those who’ve been through the mill of cottage. My father taught me how to surf when I life and still come out smiling, still engaged with was about 5 and I’ve been surfing at life in a positive way, no matter what life has Muizenberg ever since. thrown at them… I believe one’s first taste of real, daily, paid work They haven’t let youthful ambition turn to a has a huge impact on how you view the world of swamp of bitter fatigue. There are extraordinary work for the rest of your life. examples through history – Nelson Mandela in South Africa was probably one of the more That’s why it’s great to start with a tough one. famous. Another South African, Archbishop My first job was delivering an early morning Desmond Tutu, epitomises this inspirational newspaper round before school – every state of being. weekday for about eight months.

And somewhere between careering early I was 13 and we then lived in Rondebosch, just careers and the calmness of wisdom, there’s a below UCT on the side of a mountain. I loathed magic moment when ambition and experience getting up early and still do. Besides slaving intersect – that’s the place where the Bruce away as a builder’s lackey, the steep roads up Jack brand comes from. to UCT ensured that newspaper round was the worst job I ever had. Besides teaching me “I grew up in Cape Town, South Africa, the son massive respect for postmen in hilly areas, the of a visionary architect and a brilliant drudgery of fighting gravity day in, day out, is musician/writer. We first lived on Surfers’ Corner the reason I hate wineries on different levels, in Muizenberg, where, in big storms, the waves designed by architects who never themselves crashed onto the front windows of our small have to run up and down every day.

www.winean6d1 restaurants.com

Wineries are essentially factories and people The Australian industry was buzzing in the early can spend their whole working lives in them – 1990s, with pioneering research, government and its so easy to make them better, safer, support for vineyards, universities and lighter, more enjoyable. marketing. I was very lucky to have been there then. My first memorable food experience was tasting caviar on a Bishops Prep school rugby tour to Hard, but happy yards followed – vineyard and the UK and loving the exotic texture and wild cellar work all over the world – France, Spain, flavour. Australia and the USA. Extraordinarily fired up, I returned home to South Africa in 1998 and I have been intrigued by food – the textures and simultaneously started a winery, a wine flavours, ever since. Every time I blend finished business and a family. Anyone who has done wines, I immediately consider how the resultant this will tell you it is ill-advised. composite wine will pair with food. That’s why my wines, at every price point, are crafted with The winery, Flagstone, was an early developer food in mind. with, unusual for the time, a clean, ripe, fruit- forward, soft-tannin style and whacky ideas like An MLitt degree in English literature from St wild yeast fermentations and sulphur-free wine. Andrew University, Scotland, preceded my first vintage work – toiling as a cellar hand in The first I released was a 1999 Pinot France. I soon knew I had to become a Noir called BK5, bottled without filtration or the winemaker, so with my newly-wedded wife, addition of sulphur. I am usually late for Penelope, I headed to the famous Roseworthy meetings, but in this case, I was twenty years agricultural campus, and a winemaking degree early for the “natural wine” craze. from the University of Adelaide.

64 Partly because we were doing such unorthodox because someone works in a huge multi- and financially risky things, I was named national doesn’t mean they aren’t a good Winemaker of the Year twice by two different citizen. organisations. In truth, I had learnt early on that having a good team around me was my only And the principles of fair, honest business don’t hope of survival, never mind success. change with the size of the deal.

The natural extension of a great team is In fact, I’d argue, there’s more duplicitousness collaboration with other winemakers and I in the cut-throat chain of selling one cheap became happily engulfed in various winemaking bottle of non-descript wine, than buying and joint ventures, all which gave me enormous joy, selling significant value wine businesses. such as The Berrio, Jack&Knox Winecraft, Bowwood, Fish Hoek, Mary le Bow and my first These opportunities allowed me to look at the overseas collaboration, the Pan- industry from a different perspective. winemaking adventure, La Bascula (which is still going strong with my partner Ed Adams I was forced to do research I wouldn’t have MW). undertaken and talk to interesting, insightful people I wouldn’t have had the time to learn We sold Flagstone in 2008 to Constellation, from otherwise. then a big wine and spirits business in the USA, now also into beer and cannabis – how the Once Flagstone was sold, I was employed as world changes. Chief Winemaker for Constellation Brands South Africa, responsible for all wine brands, My first taste of M&A was harrowing on some including Kumala, still the biggest SA export levels, but I also learnt that there are very few brand. nasty people in the wine industry, and just

65 We achieved some great things with that brand and overcame lots of challenges, internally and I resigned from Accolade on the 1st February externally – what a great learning curve. 2018 to focus on my family wine estate in the Overberg Highlands called “The Drift Estate” And I was simultaneously fascinated and and start a new global wine brand called “Bruce bemused by the corporate world. A learnt how Jack”. important a culture of positivity is, and how easy it is to motivate and demotivate people. With Paul Cluver, I also co-own a very special, small scale craft cider brand in South Africa The bigger the organisation, the more critical called “Cluver&Jack” and with Anthony Tindal in this becomes. Ireland, am involved in an Irish craft cider called “Orpens”. After Constellation sold off their interests, I eventually became Group My love of cider stems from my great Winemaker for the residue company, Accolade grandfather, James Mitchell, who was one of Wines, the 4th largest wine business in the the first to import cider apple varieties into world, with an output of around a case of wine South Africa and make cider. every second.

For a short time, I was asked to look after the style direction of all the company’s core brands. That was a great honour. I worked with some of the best winemakers and logistics managers in the world and it was intriguing to see how people reacted to the pressures and challenges of a dynamic global market. Why, Why, Why? We love food and wine, we want to share what is good with you!

We are a group of wine and food lovers, wine and hospitality trainers, and wine and food writ - ers, who decided to get together and create Wine and Restaurants for three reasons:

1.- Our passion for food and wine, and willingness to share.

2.- Too tired of the restrictions of current life style magazines in Vietnam, whose sole target is money, many of which (if not all) do not do restaurant reviews unless restaurants and hotels advertise, or promise advertising (forget about the claims of independence and mystery visits, our writers used to write for them, we do know!).

3.- Growing interest in Wine in Vietnam, but not dedicated media.

WE ARE LOOKING FOR CONTRIBUTORS IN ENGLISH AND/OR VIETNAMESE

Are you passionate about food and wine, and like writing?

Email us: [email protected]

67