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Wanderings in West Africa from Liverpool to Fernando Po

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Wanderings in West Africa from Liverpool to Fernando Po WANDERINGS IN WEST AFRICA LIVERPOOL TO FERNANDO PO. WANDERINGS IN WEST AFRICA FROM LIVERPOOL TO FERNANDO PO. BY A F.R.G.S. S2itfj fHap anS EDustratum. TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON : TINSLEY BROTHERS, 18, CATHERINE ST., STRAND. 1863. [The Rigid of Translation is resewed.] LONDON : BRADBUBT AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFBIARS. CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. (continued}, SIX HOURS AT THE CAPE OP COCOA PALMS ... 1 CHAPTER VII. TWENTY-FOUR HOURS AT CAPE COAST CASTLE . 39 CHAPTER VIII. GOLD IN AFRICA 104 CHAPTER IX. A PLEASANT DAY IN THE LAND OF ANTS . 132 CHAPTER X. A DAY AT LAGOS. .* 186 CHAPTER XI. BENIN NUN BONNY RIVER TO FERNANDO Po 242 WANDERINGS IN WEST AFRICA. CHAPTER VI. (continued.) SIX HOURS AT THE CAPE OF COCOA PALMS. " de las a fair land Cape Palmas, high ; hut having on the eastern side some low places by the shore which look like red cliffs, with white streaks resembling highways, reaching the length of a cable." Capt, JOHN LAKE, the first English visitor at this place in 1554. 16TH SEPTEMBER, 186 . AFTER subscribing to the Cavalla Messenger,* and taking leave of Mr. Hoffman, with gratitude for his indeed kindness, highly pleased with the civility of all after our short but sharp experience at S'a Leone, we walked back to the Hotel, where we found a luncheon provided for us by Mr. John Marshall. Our leave of absence was soon ended a ; we unfolded umbrellas pre- * It is published monthly at Cavalla, the head-quarters of Bishop Payne. The printing, which is tolerable, is "done" by two native youths. The subscription, payable in advance, is fifty cents (two shillings) per annum ; or, including postage per steamer, seventy-five cents. 2 WANDERINGS IN WEST AFRICA. caution never to be disregarded in these latitudes, where the more you know of the sun the more you respect him and took our way to the boats. On the steps a docu- ment was handed to me : it bore the novel direction : For Nanpopo (Fernando Po), MR. FRIDAY, In the care of one* Crewman (Kruman). " The Consul had failed in recruiting men. Nanny was a of fear to the been Po/' word Krumen ; they had made to work in gardens and on the roads, and they complained most falsely, I afterwards found of "^toco comer, mucho trabajo." Some of them had been engaged for one year, not two, and had been kept for three the usual time to the great sorrow of their mammies and to the abiding resentment of themselves. Hearing the Consul speak a few words of Spanish, they decided him " to be a Tanyer," and resolutely refused, with charac- teristic independence, to accompany him. One man came down to the wharf and expressed willingness to engage; he asked, besides passage to and from his country, and food, clothes, and lodging, $4 and 2 pezetas per mensem $2 being the usual wages. His terms were agreed to, but he forgot to come on board. We also failed in buying Kru canoes, which are useful for fishing and for sending notes to ships in harbour. They are usually plentiful, and sell for II. each; the people, " however, in actual sight of siller/' declared that they * The African language has no indefinite article : hence one is always used for our a. SIX HOURS AT THE CAPE OF PALMS. 3 wanted all their craft, and I know the African too well to waste time when he urges that plea and takes that stand. Cape Palmas, called Bamnepo by the natives, is in the county of Maryland, the easternmost of the five into which the Liberian Republic is divided, beginning from, the east Sinoe, Bassa, Mesurado, in which the capital stands, and Kassa, the northernmost which contains the much-vexed Gallinhas River. It was begun in 1834 by the Maryland State Colonization Society, which granted to it an annual sum of 2000^ from the treasury. The Governor, or, as he is here called, the Superintendent of Public Affairs at Cape Palmas Station, is Hon. J. C. Gibson, who is under the present President of Liberia, Hon. S. A. Benson, who succeeded ex-Presi- dent Eoberts, a good working man, but as arbitrary as democrats when in power are apt to be. There are two senators Hon. J. Marshall, and Hon. J. Moulton. Whenever a dispute arises between the colonists arid the natives, a council, composed of the Superintendent and the Senators, together with the African Headman, holds "palaver" upon the subject. The Krumen have as shown a rooted aversion to all taxation yet ; they prefer to be plundered wholesale, at uncertain periods, by their own people, than pay a certain and invariable, though trifling assessment, for law, order, and protection. Con- sequently Harper is rather depressed for want of means. The principal income is from ships entering the harbour; they are charged 3 Is. for anchorage and lighthouse dues. Another tax might be put upon water, of B 2 AFRICA. 4 . WANDEEINGS IN WEST which there are good, but not abundant, springs at the Cape. The number of Krumen who flock to this station for employment seldom falls below 1500, and of course it is made a source of profit to individual colonists. The Republic desires that trade be restricted to six ports of is one.* entry, of which Harper The Methodists who, about eight years ago, established themselves in these lands, number the largest body of Christians in Liberia their annals, however, are a necro- see below the state of the Protes- logy. The reader may tant Episcopal Mission at the time of my visit.f In the * Of these six, three are in one county, and one in each of the others, viz. : Roberts Port, J Monrovia, I Mesurad County. Marshall, \ Buchanan, Bassa County. Gxeenhill, Sinoe County. Harper, Maryland County. " + The Mission Field about Cape Palmas. "It was a wise and merciful Providence which first directed the Protestant Episcopal Mission, and others, to Cape Palmas and parts ad- jacent. It was the healthiest of the settlements then made on the coast. Unlike some other portions of the Liberian coast, the tribes around had not been thinned or broken up by the slave trade and domestic wars which it ever excites. While the Cavalla River, alive with an active trade, opened a highway eighty miles into the interior. "These favourable circumstances, made known by Dr. James Hall, then Governor at Cape Palmas, and Rev. Dr. Wilson, who accompanied him on his expedition to purchase land for the colony, determined the Foreign Committee of the Protestant Episcopal Church to commence their missionary work at Cape Palmas. " In the autumn of 1836, Rev. Dr. Savage arrived at Cape Palmas, Mr. James M. Thomson, a Liberian, had been employed by the Foreign Committee to make preliminary arrangements, and had so well SIX HOURS AT THE CAPE OF PALMS. 5 several settlements of Rocktown, Fishtown, and Springhill there are about 130 catechumens, who are instructed by occupied his time that when Dr. Savage arrived, the lot at Mount Vaughan was partially cleared, and Mr. Thomson had gathered a small native school in a thatched house on the premises. "On July 4th, 1837, Rev. Messrs. Minor and Payne joined Dr. Savage. By this time the first Mission House at Mount Vaughan was so far completed that, by putting up curtains, we managed to make out three rooms for the Mission family. "In the Mission field they found Rev. Dr. Wilson and associates of the American Board occupying Cape Palmas, Rocktown, Fishtown, and Cavalla and Rev. F. of the Half ; Burns, Methodist Mission, regularly in the colony. "The field immediately about the Cape being so well occupied, the Protestant Episcopal Mission at once directed its efforts towards the interior. Accordingly, while Mr. Payne officiated for a small colonist ' ' congregation, and occasionally at Joe War's Town (not Hoffman station), Grahway and Perebo, Mr. Minor was sent to make arrange- ments to open a station at DihnS (Dinnah), on the Cavalla, thirty miles from its mouth. "The lot had been selected for the building and the plan of the house decided upon when the people of Bareke, a larger town midway between Mount Vaughan and Dihne, insisted upon our having a Mission station at their place before going beyond them. " As they commanded the road, we could do no better than fall back on Bareke. Here, again, Mr. Minor had gone and selected a Mission lot and Tedi Blia had visited to ; King Mount Vaughan complete arrange- ments for building, when suddenly war broke out between Bareke and the colony, and our progress was again arrested. Soon after this, Dr. Wilson, of the American Board, and associates determined to remove their Mission to the Gaboon River, and their stations about Cape Palmas were gradually transferred to the Protestant Episcopal Mission." "General Statistics of the Protestant Episcopal Mission at Capes Palmas and Parts adjacent. "We give this month the general statistics of our Mission. We shall be most happy to receive from our brethren the coast statistics of their Mission, and any items of intelligence connected therewith. 6 WANDERINGS IN WEST AFRICA. three Anglo-Americans and their families. With excel- lent sense the missionaries employ their pupils for a short time in reading and writing, ciphering, and psalmody, and for a long time in learning trades and handicraft. Education is cheap; the poor pay but 2 cents, the rich $5, a year. They thus form a Civili- zation Society; whilst others, neglecting all things save the cure of souls, are successful in producing, as the phrase is, more convicts than converts.
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