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Home , Cherokee Trail, Colorado Territory, Cuerno Verde, Dexter Cabin, Fort Crawford (Colorado), Fort Jackson (Colorado)

Tales Told with Markers

In this guide the State Historical Society of for the first time presents a list of its markers erected through 1969. During the I~ past four decades the Society has designated historic places and events throughout the state with these bronze and wooden markers, the program having been enabled through the Mrs. J. N. Hall Foundation, the William A. Braiden Fund, and the Robert S. Ellison Fund. The State Penitentiary has made the wooden signs, and cooperation with the De­ partment of Highways has been extensive in many ways. Following the marker texts in this guide are names of other governmental agencies, local organizations, and persons who have assisted with individual markers. To make this list useful to travelers and resi­ dents in various sections of the state, the map of Colorado has been divided into regions. Within each region counties are presented alphabetically, as are the sites within each . Each site is numbered and located by that number on the appropriate regional map; specific locations also are provided beside each marker text in the guide. Although the Society has attempted to up­ date its files and to locate every marker, some may have eluded the Society's records. Information will be welcomed about any omitted markers which the name of the State Historical Society. For all, it is hoped, traveling with the markers will be informa­ tive and fun. High Country SEDGWICK••• The rolling plains here begin their climb from midwestern farmlands to the regions PHILLIP.5 G dominated by the adjacent Rockies. Where dry farming, cattle raising, and oil produc­ tion now thrive, Indians and buffalo once roamed the . Gold seekers crossed the MORGAN prairie along the and the ; the , stage lines, and the railroad followed. In this brief inter­ YUMA val the last of Colorado's Indian battles were fought and the Indians were removed. The WA5HINGTON great herds of buffalo survived little longer.

CHEYENNE COUNTY 1 COLORADO. The Mountain State reaches ELBERT KIT CAR.SON 8 across the to welcome you. This State line marker is the Smoky Hill Trail, a short cut found in on US 40, east of 1860 from the River to the Pikes Wells. Peak and gold diggings. On Wood LINCOLN this route to the mountains wagon trains and stage coaches brought thousands from water CHEYENNE 0 hole to water hole across the dry plains. In oe e the 1870's rails followed the wagon tracks f) and steam trains were halted by herds of buffalo. Nomad Indians-, Coman­ ches and -sometimes attacked wag­ 0 ons and outlaws held up trains. Today these Kl 0 WA dry lands yield immense crops and graze thousands of fat cattle. The High Plains Country 187 186 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970

will soon be visible as you proceed west, traveling in a quarter of an hour or less 4 the distance the wagon trains came in a day. SMOKY HILL TRAIL. Famous emigrant Erected 1956. and stage road between City and Same location . Stations and stock were moved to as above. this shortened north route in 1866. Travelled Bronz•e 2 by pioneers, soldiers, and Wells Fargo Ex­ . Named for the great press. Big Springs Station 2.4 miles west. Kit Carson, in park on scout, guide, trapper, and Indian fighter. Lo­ service was withdrawn upon com­ north side of US 40. cated on famous trails-at the junction of the pletion of railroad, but wagon traffic con­ Bronze Smoky Hill stagecoach route and the ­ tinued thereafter. Erected with the High­ Potter and Bacon, and Chisum way 59-61 Association and the Mount Pearl cattle tr~ils . On the old Kansas Pacific Rail­ Community Club, 1954. road, at junction of branches running to Den­ ver and to Las Animas. Erected with the Chamber of Commerce of Kit Carson, 1954. 5 SMOKY HILL TRAIL. The route of the fa­ mous Smoky Hill Trail. Emigrant and stage 7 miles west of 3 road extending from Kansas City (Westport) Cheyenne Wells on OLD CATTLE TRAIL. The Texas-Montana, to Denver, via Fort Riley, and Fort north side of US 40. 12 miles north of Bacon and Potter, and J. S. Chisum trails, Wallace. Traveled by gold seekers, soldiers Bronze Kit Carson on the leading from sections of Texas, converged in and pioneers. Route of Butterfield's Overland west side of this vicinity. Over these routes great herds Dispatch and Wells Fargo Express. The trail State 59. of Texas longhorns, scions of hardy stock replaced by the in Bronze from , moved northward. Big Springs, 1870. Erected with the Cheyenne County Fif­ 2.4 miles west, was an important cattle wa­ tieth Anniversary Celebration Club, 1939. tering place. Legend says that Billy Com­ stock, early scout, was killed here by Indians, who left him unscalped in tribute to his COUNTY courage and ability. Erected with the High­ way 59-61 Association and the Mount Pearl Community Club, 1954. 6 . North eight miles, east one mile is the site of the Sand Creek "battle" or "massacre" of , 1864. Colorado volunteers under com­ mand of Col. J. M. Chivington attacked a village of Cheyennes and Arapahoes en­ camped on Sand Creek. Many Indians were killed; no prisoners were taken. The white On north side of losses were ten killed and thirty-eight State 96, 314 mile wounded. One of the regrettable tragedies in east of Chivington. the conquest of the West. Erected with the Bronze Eads and Lamar Chambers of Commerce and the Colorado Valley, Inc., 1950. 188 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 High Plains CO'lmtry 189

KIT CARSON COUNTY 9 7 FORT WICKED. Due west 940 feet stood "Fort Wicked," originally Godfrey's Ranch, 1h mile east of COLORADO. In the center of the Great famous Overland Stage station. One of the -Logan county On north side of US 24 Plains you are entering the Mountain State, few posts withstanding the Indian uprising line on west side of US 6. at Colorado-Kansas state admitted to the Union in 1876, a century of 1864 on the road to Colorado. Named from Bronze line 6 miles east of after the Declaration of Independence. Here the bitter defence made by Holon Godfrey. Burlington. once grazed immense dark herds of buffalo. Erected with the Sterling Chamber of Com­ Wood Swift footed antelope circled in bands at any merce, 1929. alarm. Wandering Indians followed the buf­ falo gathering from flesh and hides their 10 food, weapons and shelter. Later great herds of longhorn cattle were driven north from VALLEY ST ATION. 3.8 miles north along the Gulf to the rail lines. The eastern ram­ country road is the site of Valley Station, 1 % miles southeast of parts of the Rocky Mountains stand 160 miles built in 1859 as a stagecoach station of the Sterling on US 6 at entrance to the west. , and Leavenworth and Pike's Peak Express. Sta­ to Museum. , named for explorers and pio­ tion on the Overland Trail to 1862- Bronze neers will soon be visible to the westbound 67. Indian War outpost, 1864-65. On~e de­ traveler if the sky is clear. Colorado wel­ fended by a breastwork of sacks of shelled comes you to mountain and , to its great corn. Erected with Troop No. 16, Sterling variety of industry, scenery and climate. Scouts, B.S.A., 1933. Erected 1956.

LOGAN COUNTY

8 BATTLE OF SUMMIT SPRINGS. 13 miles South of Sterling on southeast from this point is the site of the west side of State 63, Battle of Summit Springs, last engagement 3,4 mile south of US 6. with in Colorado, July 11, Bronze 1869. Cheyennes who raided western Kansas were attacked by General E. A. Carr with the Fifth U.S. Cavalry and under Maj. Frank North. Two white captives were held by the Indians; one (Mrs. Alder­ dice) was killed. The other (Mrs. Weichel) was rescued. Chief Tall Bull and 51 Indians killed. Erected with Boy Scout Troop No. 18 of Sterling, 1934 High Plains Country 191

ver. In 1859 and 1860 the carried thousands westward along this trail, in wag­ ons, on horseback, with handcarts and on foot, seeking fortune. They saw then an empty land, traversed only by nomad Indian bands who followed great dark herds of buffalo, often miles in extent. like Julesburg soon grew from stage stations armed against Indian attack. In the 1870's the first rails were laid almost in the wagon ruts. Today PHILLIPS COUNTY the highway traverses bountiful lands and substantial cities. Erected 1956. 11 COLORADO. In the early 1860's this high­ 13 On north side of way was traversed by stage lines and ox­ . Due south 11/4 miles is US 6, 3/4 mile west team caravans whose prairie schooners bore the site of Fort Sedgwick. Established in Sep­ Ovid, on south side of Colorado- the legend "Pikes Peak or Bust." This was tember, 1864, as a Army post. of US 138 at eastern state line. a short cut where water was often scarce. Called Camp Rankin and Post Julesburg. city limits. Wood Disillusioned, gold-seeking "pilgrims" re­ Name changed in November, 1865, to honor Bronze turning eastward sometimes added to their General , who was killed at covered wagons the legend: "Busted, by Spottsylvania May 9, 1864. The fort protected Thunder." This highway crosses early buf­ the stage line and emigrant trains from Ir1- falo grazing grounds and cattle ranges where diaps. Abandoned in May, 1871. From thl.s Indians often fought the white men in an fort, Sedgwick County derives its name. effort to keep back the encroaching settlers. Erected with the Julesburg Historical So­ Some sixty miles ahead it joins the South ciety, 1940. Platte River route at Sterling, along which were early forts and trading posts. Much ad­ A Juan Menchaca painting of Fort Sedgwick. jacent territory was settled from 1886-1889. Leaving Denver the route spirals westward over the through an colored with robust 's early mining camps. Erected 1956.

SEDGWICK COUNTY 12 COLORADO. Here on the Great Plains Julesburg, on 1st St. where the ramparts of the Rocky Mountains (US 138) between still lie some hours westward the Mountain Oak and Elm streets. State welcomes you. This highway leads up Wood the valley of the to Den- 192 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 High Plains Country 193

made a successful surprise attack on the 14 camp. Chief Tall Bull was among the 52 In­ dians killed in the battle; 418 horses and JULESBURG. Due north 1235 feet is the mules were captured, and 84 lodges were put From Ovid, 1.5 miLes original site of Old Julesburg, named for to the torch. Fifth Cavalry scout south on Main St., then Jules Beni, whose trading post was estab­ Cody later made this last Plains Indian battle east on dirt road 1.5 miles lished at the "upper crossing" of the Platte in Colorado a regular feature of his Wild (north side of dirt road) . prior to 1860. Junction of and Over­ West Show. Erected with the Sterling Lions Bronze land trails. Pony Express station, 1860-61. CLub and the Logan County Commissioners, Overland Stage station, 1859-65. Burned in 1966. Indian raid, Feb. 2, 1865. Erected with citi­ zens of Sedgwick County, 1931 .

The telegraph office at Julesburg. YUMA COUNTY 16 COLORADO. Here near the springs of the Republican River, you enter the Mountain On north side of US 34, State in the center of the Great Plains. These 1 mile west of state line. , once called the American , Wood and of the Rocky Mountains to the west once barred the advance of the white man. Here grazed buffalo in unbelievable numbers. Shy, swift antelope coursed the arroyos. Indians on horseback, their tepees tied on dragging poles, raided the buffalo herds for meat and hides. Today highways, railroads and airplanes carry the traveler in a few minutes farther than ox-hauled wag­ ons reached in a day. Colorado is one of the last settled areas of America but today 1,500,000 residents inhabit its plains, moun­ tains and cities surrounded by varied agri­ WASHINGTON COU NTY culture, industry, scenery and climate. The people of Colorado welcome you. Erected 15 1956. SUMMIT SPRINGS BATTLEFIELD. Fleeing 8 miles south from Atwood after a series of bloody raids on the Kansas on State 63, then east frontier, a band of 450 marauding Cheyenne 5 miles on dirt road. led by Tall Bull (Tatonka Bronze Raska) camped here. On the afternoon of July 11, 1869, 300 men of the 5th Cavalry and the Pawnee scouts under Gen. E. A. Carr Arkansas Trade Routes

Scouted by Pike, following traces of Indians and Spaniards, the and its tributaries provided a route across south­ eastern Colorado to the foothills and deep into the Rockies, as modern highways along its banks connect commercial centers such as La Junta, Pueblo, Canon City, and Colo­ rado Springs today. But the boldest of the G & early trade efforts was along the Santa Fe • 9 Trail and the Mountain Branch which crossed ••• fD near Trinidad. EL PASO

BENT COUNTY CROWLEY 17 BENT'S NEW FORT. The site of Bent's New Fort, built by William W. Bent in 1853 as an US 50, 1.1 miles west of PROWERS Indian trading post. Sold to U.S. govern­ US 287 (north), south OTERO ment, 1859. Buildings added one mile west 1 mile on dirt road, and named Fort Wise in 1860. Re-named Fort .2 mile east, .5 mile Lyon in 1861[2]. Fort moved farther west, south to locked gate. 1867. Erected with the Lamar Junior Cham­ Bronze ber of Commerce, 1942.

Fort Lyon in 1863. L.AS ANIMAS BA C A G CD G> G 196 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 18 BIG TIMBERS. Beginning about 25 miles Roadside park on down the Arkansas River from the mouth of south side of the Purgatoire, a belt of giant cottonwoods US 50 8.5 miles stretched eastward for another 25 miles nated by the first territorial legislature, 1861. east of La Junta. along both banks of the river. The lush grass, Erected with the EL Paso County Pioneers' Wood abundant game, plentiful wood, and fresh Association and the City of Colorado Springs, water made it a favorite camping place for 1940. Indians. passed through here in November, 1806. Surveyors and traders, fol­ 21 lowing the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe FIRST CAPITOL. Log house from Colora­ Trail, paused at Big Timbers to rest or to do's first designated territorial capital at trade with the Indians. Although Bent's (now a part of Colorado Fort was located a few miles up river, Wil­ Springs). This log house was built in 1859. liam Bent maintained trading stations in the The first legislative assembly in Denver in Big Timbers and in 1853 built his new stone 1861 named Colorado City the capital. The Same location fort there. After the removal of the Indians 2nd assembly met there in 1862. This is the as above. in the 1860's, the area was opened to settle­ only remaining building associated with that Bronze ment, and the Big Timbers furnished build­ meeting. Erected 1959. ing material for settlers' cabins and wood for their cookstoves. Erected 1965. 22 JIMMY'S CAMP. One mile southeast are the 19 spring and site of Jimmy's Camp, named for Southeast side of US 24, BOGGSVILLE. Established in 1866. Named Jimmy (last name undetermined), an early east of Colorado Springs, 2 miles south of Las for Thomas 0 . Boggs, first settler on this trader who was murdered there. A famous 2¥2 miles east of Animas on east site. Home of Kit Carson and John W. Prow­ camp site on the trail connecting the Arkan­ junction with State 94. side of State 101. ers, noted pioneers. Seat of Bent County, sas and Platte rivers and variously known Bronze Bronze 1870. Site of first public school in southeast­ as "Trappers' Trail," " Trail," and ern Colorado. Erected with Mary Prowers "Jimmy's Camp Trail." Site visited by Rufus HudnaLL and citizens and school children of Sage (1842), Francis Parkman (1846), Mor­ Las Animas, 1946. mons (1847), and by many gold seekers of 1858-59. Erected with the Kinnikinnik Chap­ ter, D.A.R., 1949. EL PASO COUNTY 23 20 OLD FORT AND STOCKADE. This marks COLORADO CITY. Founded here in Au­ the site of the old fort and stockade built by Colorado Springs, Colorado Springs, in gust, 1859, then in El Paso County, Kansas. pioneers of Colorado City. Used in defense 2824 Pikes Peak Ave. Bancroft Park, W. Colorado So named because at the gateway to mines against the Indians in 1864 and 1868. Con­ Bronze Ave. at 24th St. thought to be on the . Incor­ structed of logs set on end. Erected with the Bronze porated with Colorado Springs on June 11, EL Paso Pioneers' Association and the City of 1917. The first capital of Colorado, so desig- Colorado Springs, 1936. 198 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Arkansas Trade Routes 199

highway, in 1915. Motor races up the peak 24 are held annually. The resort city of Colo­ PIKES PEAK. Southwest rises the summit rado Springs, founded 1871, nestles at its On west side of 1-25 of Pikes Peak. This mountain, 14,110 feet foot where the first called Colorado (US 85-87) between north above the sea and the most celebrated peak City stood years earlier. The U.S. Air Force and south entrances to in America, is named for the explorer, Capt. Academy is a few miles north. Pikes Peak is U .S. Air Force Academy. Zebulon M. Pike, who saw it first in 1806. He famed for its history and conspicuous po­ Wood attempted to climb it, failed and reported it sition. Colorado contains more than fifty unclimbable. Ascended in 1820 by Dr. Edwin mountains over 14,000 feet high. Erected 1959. James, a later explorer. A cog railway reached the summit in 1890 and a highway, in 1915. 26 Motor races up the peak are held annually. STONE FORT. Due south 610 feet is the old The resort city of Colorado Springs, founded stone fort built at the home of David 1871 nestles at its foot where the first town Near Monument ' . McShane. Constructed as a defense against 3)1 mile west of 1- 25 called Colorado [City] stood years earlier. and Cheyenne raiders, it was a ref­ The U.S. Air Force Academy rises ten miles (US 85 - 87) on south side uge used in 1865-1868 by the following pio­ of State 105, west of north. Pikes Peak is famed for its history and neer families of the upper Monument Valley: conspicuous position. Colorado contains more railroad tracks. Brown, Chandler, Davidson, DeMasters, Bronze than fifty mountains over 14,000 feet high. Faulkner, Guire, Jackson, McShane, Oldham, Erected 1964. Roberts, Simpson, Shideler, Teachout, Walker, Watkins, Welty. Erected with the 25 Zebulon Pike and K innikinnik Chapters, PIKES PEAK. Southwest rises the summit D.A.R., and by citizens of the Monument North side of US 24, of Pikes Peak. This mountain, 14,110 feet region, 1950. 5 miles east of Peyton. above the sea and the most celebrated peak Wood in America, is named for the explorer, Capt. 27 Zebulon M. P ike, who saw it first in 1806. . Named from the old Ute Trail He attempted to climb it but was turned which led from South Park through Manitou :i6 mile west of Manitou back by deep snow. Ascended in 1820 by to the plains. Traversed by the Utes on hunt­ Springs on old U S 24, Dr. Edwin James, a later explorer. A cog ing and war expeditions. Improved highway across from Rainbow Falls. railway reached the summit in 1890 and a built, 1916-28. Erected with the U. S . Forest Bronze Service, 1929.

FREMONT COUNTY 28 FLORENCE AND CRIPPLE CREEK R AIL­ ROAD. The city of Florence and Fremont Florence, on grounds of County, Colorado, owe much of their growth high school at northeast and development to the building and opera­ corner of State 115 and 2nd St. tion of the Florence and Cripple Creek Rail- Bronze Arkansas Trade Routes 201

road (May 10, 1893-May 10, 1915). This tablet over by the Ute and Arapaho Indians. Vil­ marks the approximate location of the Flor­ lagers traded with anyone who happened by, ence & Cripple Creek roundhouse, railroad but the tiny community was too far removed yards and mainline tracks. In its day, this from the main-traveled to railroad was one of the busiest narrow gauge survive. By late November, 1848, when John lines, mile for mile, in the colorful history C. Fremont and his men briefly visited Hard­ of the West. Erected with the Pioneer Day scrabble on their way west in search of a Association of Florence, 1956. central railroad route through the mountains, the village was almost deserted. Erected with 29 the Arkansas Valley Chapter, D.A.R., 1969. GARDEN PARK. Garden Park type locality On OiL Creek, 6.4 of . The first remains of several 31 miles north of Canon species of dinosaurs were found within a two­ OIL CREEK. Site of the first oil well in the City via Field Ave. mile radius of this point in 1877 by Prof. 0. west; second place in the United States to North of Canon City, Bronze C. Marsh of Yale University, and Prof. E. D. produce from wells. In 1862, just 4. 7 miles on Oil Cope of the Academy of Sciences of Phila­ across the stream from this point, A. M. Cas­ Creek via Field Ave. delphia. This discovery of extinct giant rep­ sid I al y drilled an oil well fifty feet deep. By Bronze tiles in the western hemisphere received February, 1863, production was one barrel a world-wide acclaim. The specimens exca­ day. Later, several thousand gallons of petro­ vated on these and subsequent expeditions leum were produced by primitive methods, are in the museums listed below. and kerosene and lubricating oil were Stegosaurus shipped by ox-team as far as Denver & American Museum Yale Peabody Museum Santa Fe. Cassid I al y's success led to the find­ Denver Museum ing of Colorado's first real oil field about seven miles south of here. This field, known Carnegie Museum as the Florence Pool, was discovered in 1876 Brontosaurus Ceratosaurus by Isaac Canfield. It subsequently was oper­ Phil. Acad. of Sciences U.S. National Museum ated for about seventy years by Continental Erected with the Canon City Geology Club Oil Company and its predecessors. The field and citizens of Canon City, 1953. still produces a small amount of petroleum. Erected with the Continental Oil Company, the Canon City Geology Club, and citizens of 30 Canon City, 1957. HARDSCRABBLE. Much of this area's early On the west side of history occurred in nearby trading posts and State 67, 8~ miles settlements which lived and died leaving 32 south of Florence. little trace of their existence. Such was the OLDEST OIL FIELD IN THE WEST. Wood post built one mile west by Maurice Leduc In Florence and surrounding area was devel­ in the 1830's and the village of Hardscrabble oped the first recognized oil field west of the Florence, north side established in the 1840's by traders and trap­ River, as a result of the discov­ of US 115 in front of pers below the fork of Hardscrabble and ery of oil by A. M. Cass id I a Iy in Fremont Municipal Building. Adobe creeks. Hardscrabble's walls and flat­ County in 1862. More than 1,300 wells, aver­ Bron2oe roofed adobe houses formed a protective aging 2,300 barrels per acre, have been drilled square in the middle of country long fought in this 14-square-miles area, including many 202 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 Arkansas Trade R011,tes 203

within the city limits. One mile north is Well with the D and RG eventually winning the No. 42, drilled in 1889, the oldest continuous route through court action. Congress ceded commercial producing oil well in the world. the land comprising the Park It has produced more than 1,000,000 barrels. to Canon City in 1906, and the world's high­ Erected with the Florence Pioneer Day As­ est suspension bridge, spanning the Arkan­ ' sociation, 1962. sas River 1,053 feet below, was built in 1929. Erected with the Royal Gorge Company, 1967. I 33 I ROY AL GORGE. Grand of the Ar­ 35 East end of RoyaL Gorge, kansas. Explored by Capt. Zebulon M. Pike RUDD CABIN. Built in 1860 by Anson and .7 mile west of US 50, in 1806; by Maj. Stephen H. Long in 1820. Harriet Rudd, this cabin is one of the few below Tunnel Drive at Visited by gold prospectors in 1858. Canon original log cabin homes still standing in west edge of Canon City. City founded in 1859. The "Royal Gorge War" Colorado. First local building with a wooden Bronze of 1878 between the Santa Fe and floor, this cabin was the birthplace of Anson opened a rail gateway to the Rockies, inaugu­ Spencer Rudd (first white child born in rating Colorado's "Golden Decade." Erected Canon City to reach maturity). During much with the American Pioneer Trails Associa­ of the Civil War, the Rudd family faced In­ tion, Warden Roy Best and the State Peni­ dian hazards, and alone inhabited Canon City. tentiary, and citizens of Canon City, 1946. At the war's end Anson Rudd became one of the leading citizens of a revived city, be­ ing at various times prison warden, postmas­ 34 ter, sheriff, and county commissioner. The ROY AL GORGE. Lt. Zebulon M. Pike and adjacent stone building was the Rudd home Canon City, behind At each end of Royal his men, who traveled through this area in in 1881. Erected with the Canon City Museum Municipal Building at Gorge Bridge, Located November and December 1806, were the first Association, Marion Chapter, River and 6th streets. 8 miles west of American explorers to view the Arkansas D.A.R., and the citizens of Canon City, 1957. Bronze Canon City and 4 miles River canyon now known as the Royal Gorge. south of US 50. A small party from the Maj. Stephen H. Wood Long expedition visited the mouth of the 36 canyon in 1820, as did members of Lt. John UPPER ARKANSAS RIVER VALLEY. C. Fremont's expedition in 1845. In 1878 a You are entering the upper Arkansas River US 50, about right of way through the Royal Gorge be­ valley. Westward U.S. 50 skirts the Royal 3tt.z miles west came the focal point of a bitter struggle be­ Gorge- of the Arkansas­ of junction with tween the Denver and Rio Grande and the parallels the then State 115. Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroads, crosses the Continental Divide via Monarch Wood Pass. Captain Zebulon Pike explored here in 1806. In this area the Utes and the Arapa­ hoes fought many a skirmish and one pitched battle. Gold seekers established the first permanent white settlement in 1859. Near Florence in 1862 the second oil well in the U.S.A. was brought in. The "Royal Gorge War" of 1878 between the Santa Fe and the Rio Grande opened a rail gateway to the 204 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Arkansas Trade Routes 205

Rockies, inagurating Colorado's golden dec­ ade. Canon City, site of the State Peniten­ 39 tiary, lies in the heart of vast natural re­ COLORADO. First Indian hunting bands, sources. Erected with the Royal Gorge then Spanish patrols sent to check French in­ On summit of Raton Chapter State Civil Service Employees' As­ vaders, used this pass. Here on the Mountain Pass, at Colorado- sociation, 1959. Branch of the Santa Fe Trail straining oxen N ew Mex ico state once dragged wagons laden with American li ne, on east side commerce. Swaying jolted over of I-25 (US 85-87) . "Uncle Dick" Wootton's toll road of 1865. Wood HUERFANO COUNTY Steel rails of the Santa Fe arched over the pass in 1878. The ribbon of an auto highway first spanned it in 1922. Here marched troops 37 carrying muskets, their knapsacks laden with HVERF ANO . This isolated cone­ destiny; in 1846 General Kearney's [sic] The Santa Fe Trail. shaped butte, east of this point and 10 miles soldiers annexing to the United north of Walsenburg, was named El Huer­ States; in 1862 Colorado's first regiment of fano, "The Orphan," by early Spaniards. The Civil War volunteers seeking to save the name appeared in Spanish records as early Southwest for the Union. Raton Pass is named as 1818. This butte was near the Trappers' for the furrytailed mountain rat which flour­ Trail from Taos. Passed by Fremont and ishes in these rocky cliffs and pinon woods. On the east Gunnison on their railroad surveys of 1853. Altitude 8560 feet. Erected 1955. side of I-25 The river and county also now bear the (US 85-87) between name. Altitude 6,150 feet. Erected with the 40 exits 22 and 23. Huerfano Group of the Colorado Mountain RATON PASS. Between Colorado and New Bronze Club, 1951. Mexico. Altitude 7,881. "Raton" is Spanish On east side for "mouse." On Mountain Branch Santa Fe of I-25 in Trail. Crossed by Kearny's Army of the West roadside park. in the Mexican War and by First Regiment, Bronze LAS ANIMAS COUNTY Colorado Volunteers in the Civil War. "Un­ cle Dick" Wootton's toll road built 1865. Rail­ r0ad constructed 1878. Improved highway 38 built 1919-1922. Erected 1929. BLOOM MANSION. Built in 1882. This house Bloom House State was given to the State of Colorado in 1961 41 THE SANT A FE TRAIL. Historical Society through the contributions of residents and Two local forks of the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe Trail Regional Museum, former residents of Trinidad. The funds were Trinidad, north­ joined here coming from Bent's Fort, 1840- Trinidad, in parlor. obtained under auspices of the Friends of west corner of Main 1879. The earliest settlement, beginning in Bronze Historical Trinidad, Inc., and the Trinidad and Commercial Historical Society, Inc. This plaque was 1859, was along these forks, now Main and streets, on building. placed in tribute to those patron donors Commercial streets. Trinidad, Spanish for Bronze whose generosity and devotion to Trinidad the "trinity," was named about 1861 for a helped preserve this historic home as a house daughter of Don Felipe Baca, a pioneer. Town museum. (List of donors follows text.) organized 1877; incorporated 1879. Altitude, Erected 1962. 6,000 feet. Erected with the Trinidad Cham- 206 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE X L VII/3 1970

ber of Commerce and H . K. Holloway of Trinidad, 1930.

PRO WE R S COU N TY 42 44 COLORADO. Th is route parallels the old . This is the site of Fort At roadside rest on Santa Fe Trail for 85 miles to La Junta, then Reynolds, 1867-1872. U .S. military outpost to 2% miles east south side of US 50, continues westward along the Arkansas protect settlers from hostile Indians. Named of Avondale, on 30 miles east of River , the Gunnison and the Colorado riv­ for Gen. John F. Reynolds, killed at Gettys­ north side of Holly and near ers. On these plains once roamed Cheyenne, burg in 1863. First occupied by Company F, Business Route US 50. Colorado-Kansas Arapahoe, K and Indians sub­ Fifth United States Infantry. The fort was Bronze state line. sisting on buffalo which grazed in immense built of adobe. Erected w ith State Civil Serv­ Wood dark herds. This region was once Spanish, ice Employees of Colorado, 1932. then French and became American in 1803. Zebulon Pike carried the first American flag 45 westward on this route into the mountains in JACOB FOWLER'S LOOKOUT AND FOUN­ 1806. The great peak named for Captain Pike TAIN CITY. The hill one block east is Jacob Pueblo, at junction but to him unclimbable will soon be visible. Fow ler's Lookout, later called Sugar Loaf of Joplin Ave. After 1822 uncounted wagon trains carried Hill. Near it in a log house Fowler and his (State 227) freight past here to Santa Fe. Mountain men trappers lived in Jan., 1822. Fountain City, and Damson St. like Kit Carson trapped , fought In­ predecessor of Pueblo and founded in the Bronze dians. Explorers Fremont and Gunnison took fall of 1858, ran west from the hill to the this route and later the gold seekers whose Fountain River. Men who came as gold seek­ discoveries in 1859 launched Colorado. Here ers remained to farm, trade, and found a city. marched history. Erected 1956. Erected with the Fontaine Qui Bouille Chap­ ter, D.A.R., 1936. 46 PUEBLO COUNTY MORMON BATTALION. A detachment of 43 United States soldiers of the Mormon Bat­ Pueblo, 100 yards talion in the Mexican War spent the winter east of junction . In this vicinity the Co­ of 1846-47 near this site. With their families of Santa Fe Drive, In Greenhorn Meadow manche chief Cuerno Verde (Greenhorn), and Mormon immigrants from Mississippi Santa Fe Ave., and Park, Colorado City, the "Cruel Scourge," w as defeated and killed they formed a settlement of 275 persons. Business Route US 50 . just off State 165, by the Spaniards under Gov. Juan B. Anza They erected a church and rows of dwellings Bronze 3.4 miles west of I-25. on Sept. 3, 1779. The nearby mountain and of cottonwood logs. Here were born the first Bronze stream take their name from the chief. white children in Colorado. Erected with Anza's was the first expedition through cer­ Colorado members of the Church of Jesus tain parts of Colorado. Erected with the State Christ of L atter Day Saints and citizens of Civil Service E1 iployees of Colorado, 1932. Pueblo, 1946. Mile-High City

A mile high and still growing, Denver has become the capital city not only of Colorado but also of all the Rocky Mountain West. From a placer on Dry Creek, a boisterous frontier settlement spawned and went on to earn reputations as cow town, commercial and industrial hub, cultural mecca, queen city of parks and emerald lawns, center of Colorado's population, and the proud seat of Colorado's state government.

I . ,- · - ···~ DENVER COUNTY 47 AURARIA. On November 1, 1858, the center of this stream was designated the east bound­ Denver, southwest ary of Auraria, first duly located and platted end of Market St. town at the mouth of Cherry Creek. This bridge at Speer 1,200-acre settlement, with Indian Row and Blvd. northbound. "Uncle Dick" Wootton's store, was the def­ Bronze inite beginning of Denver. The town was named for Auraria, , meaning "gold."

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L{.., 210 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 Mile-High City 211

William Green Russell and his brothers dis­ in 1864. He was president of this Society, covered the first gold in paying quantity in 1903-14, and at his death a director. He was Colorado, inciting the gold rush of 1859. the foremost collector of Colorado historical Auraria was the cradle of Colorado's pioneer materials. The harvest of his gathering en­ business and political development. On April riched this institution. Erected 1935. 5, 1860, a ratification meeting was held by moonlight, on the Larimer Street bridge one 5 1 block south, at which Auraria and Denver ELEPHANT CORRAL. Immediately north­ consolidated under the name Denver. Erected east of this point and covering much of Block Denver, west side with the Peace Pipe Chapter, D.A.R., 1959. 18 East Denver stood the famous Elephant main girder, at Corral. Camp ground, immigrant headquar­ northwest corner 48 ters and stock yards of pioneer Denver. Be­ Speer Blvd. CAMP ADAMS. Immediately northeast was gun early in 1859 by Blake & Williams with and Blake St. Denver, at southwest the site of Camp Adams. The Colorado Na­ their Denver House, the first hotel in Denver Bronze corner of 26th Ave. tional Guard encamped here April 28 , 1898. City. was a guest here and ad­ at Colorado Blvd. Infantry units mustered in as First Colorado dressed the pioneers June 6, 1859. During the Bronze Lnfantry, U.S.V., under command of Col. Ir­ 1860s the corral was surrounded by an eight­ ving Hale. These forces participated in the foot wall having loopholes for Indian de­ capture of Manila, P.I., raising the first flag fense. Erected with the City and County of over the city, Aug. 13, 1898. Other units from Denver, 1935. this camp served elsewhere in the war. Erected with the First Colorado Infantry, U.S.V. Association, 1952. 49 CAMP WELD. This is the southwest corner Denver, at northwest of Camp Weld. Established September 1861 end of viaduct at for Colorado Civil War volunteers. Named corner of West 8th for Lewis L . Weld, first secretary of Colorado Ave. and Vallejo. Territory. Troops leaving here Feb. 22, 1862, Bronze won victory over Confederate forces at La Glorieta, New Mexico, saved the Southwest for the Union. Headquarters against Indians 1864-65. Camp abandoned 1865. Erected with the City and County of Denv er, 1934. 50 EDWARD BROADBENT MORGAN. The li­ Denver, State brary of the State Historical Society of Colo­ Historical Society rado owes much to the collections donated by of Colorado Library. Edward Broadbent Morgan (Dec. 18, 1862- Bronze Sept. 6, 1935) . Lawyer, chairman of the Colo­ rado Tax Commission. He came to Colorado 212 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Mile-High City 213

52 54 FIRST SCHOOL. On this site in Auraria OVERLAND PARK. Most historical of Den­ Denver, (West Denver) the first school in Colorado ver's municipal parks. Created in 1882. This Denver, Jewell St., 1360 12th St. was opened on October 3, 1859. "Professor" site was homesteaded in 1862 by "Potato" 250 feet west of on building. 0. J. Goldrick, who came to Denver dressed Clark. Jim Beckwourth, "daredevil" intersection with Bronze in frock coat and high hat and driving a bull erected a home in 1860 .6 mile northeast. Huron, at entrance team, was the first teacher. The school house Sam Brown's toll bridge of 1859 located 4 to Overland was a rented log cabin with dirt roof and miles south. Gold discovered during July Municipal Golf Course. canvas door. Pupils paid $3.00 per month 1858 .2 mile southwest by Green Russell's Bronze tuition. Free public schools were not estab­ party from Georgia. That fall log cabins of lished until 1862. Erected with the American Montana City were built about .5 mile south Pioneer Trail Association and school chil­ of this spot. Gold traces were found at Span­ dren of Denver, 1947. ish Diggings 2 miles north in 1857. Erected with the Sons of the American Revolution, 53 American Pioneer Trails Association, and MANHATTAN BEACH. On the northwest the western history students of South High Denver, southwest shore of Sloan's Lake was Manhattan Beach, School, 1948. shore Sloan's Lake, popular amusement park of the gay nineties, on stone boathouse. with a theater, boating, dancing, and special­ 55 Bronze ties. Opened on June 27, 1891. The theater PLATTE RIVER TRAIL. Commemorating burned Dec. 26, 1908. Some amusement fea­ the route of the Platte River Trail, principal Denver, inter­ tures continued to 1914. Erected with the route of Colorado pioneers. Trail of Major S. section of York St. American Pioneer Trails Association and the H. Long in 1820. Trappers' Trail of 1830s and and Brighton Blvd. City Administration of Denver, 1953. . The 1858-9 route of goldseekers with Bronze pick and pan, homeseekers in covered wag­ ons, bullwhackers with ox teams, stage­ coaches with treasure and mail. The path that became an empire. Erected with the State Civil Service Employees of Colorado, 1932. 56 RALSTON CREEK. One mile north of this point gold was discovered on June 22, 1850, Inspiration Point by a party of California-bound . Park in northwest The discovery was made by Louis Ralston, corner of Denver, whose name was given the creek (a branch entered at Sheridan of ). Reports of the find brought and W. 49th Ave. the prospecting parties of 1858, whose dis­ Bronze coveries caused the Pike's Peak gold rush of 1859, which resulted in the permanent set­ tlement of Colorado. Erected with the City and County of Denver, 1941. Mile-High City 215

59 STREET CARS. This plaque was presented to the City of Denver by the Colorado State Denver, 50 yards Historical Society and the American Pioneer from southwest Trails Association on June 3, 1950, the day corner of Colfax street cars were retired and the city's tran­ and Broadway, near sit system was converted to rubber-tired Voorhies Memorial Arch. vehicles. The plaque commemorates the pass­ Bronze ing of the street car which served the city's transit needs for nearly 80 years starting with the horse car December 17, 1871. The plaque is placed here near the site, at the corner of Colfax and Broadway, of the large cable house which provided power for transit lines during the era when the Welton Street line was one of the longest street car cable lines in the world, 65,600 feet. Erected 1950. 57 ROCKY MOUNTAIN NEWS. On this site Denver, at south end stood the original home of the Rocky Moun­ of Market St. bridge tain News, first newspaper established in across Cherry Creek, the "Pike's Peak gold region." Founded by on southwest Wm. N. Byers, April 23, 1859. Champion of abutment. law and order in ",'' ad­ Bronze vocate of faith in emerging Colorado. Located on neutral ground between pioneer towns, Denver and Auraria. Building and press lost in great Cherry Creek flood, May 19, 1864. Commemorating the 75th anniversary of the founding of Colorado's first newspaper, erected April 23, 1934. 58 SMOKY HILL TRAIL. Here was the end of Denver, at Colfax, the famous Smoky Hill Trail, immigrant and Broadway, and stage road extending from the Cheyenne Place, to Denver. Traversed by pioneers in 1858. on east face of Surveyed by W. G. Russell in 1860. Route of Pioneer Monument. Butterfield's Overland Despatch and Wells­ Bronze Fargo Express. The trail took its human toll -death by thirst and Indian raids. Erected with the City and County of Denver, 1936. The Rich Earth

Riches of mountains and plains combine in north-. From mountain mines came the state's first bonanzas of gold and silver. And earlier from the hills came riches in beaver pelts, taken along streams which now irrigate the fertile soils of the plains below. In the cities which have grown up in these productive counties are found the state universities of Colorado. LARIMER WELD

ARAPAHOE COUNTY -w 60 BEGUN ON A BET. At first, had no CD chutes or fences or deadlines, just a , Deer Trail, BOULDER a horse, and the open prairie. After long in City Park G> spells off by himself, one of the most lone­ at Elm St. some, yarn-spinning, natural-born gamblers and 2nd Ave. ADAM.S in the world-the workaday cowboy-looked Wood for action and found it betting he could stay atop the devil himself wrapped in horsehide if he could be roped and saddled. Then, man ARAPAHOE(D CD and horse battled it out until one or the other gave up or gave out. One of the earliest ro­ deos, the first recorded with rules and prizes, took place at Deer Trail when the Hashknife, Mill Iron, and Camp Stool outfits celebrated the Fourth of July in 1869 trying to bust the cussedest of the biting, twisting broncos. After the daylong mixup of rawhide and The Rich Earth 219

ver with Kansas City and the East. Pushing their hell-on-wheels town along as they made In roadside rest on their way, thousands of brawling, thick­ north side of I-70 skinned men shoveled and scraped a roadbed (US 40) 3.5 miles west over the prairie, threw down roughhewn of Strasburg exit. ties-2475 to the mile-and armed against In­ Wood dian attack, ironed the road-three strokes to the spike, 25 spikes to the rail, 375 rails to the mile, 640 miles to Denver. On August denim, the dust settled to reveal the "cham­ 15, 1870, at 3: 00 P.M., when the last rail was pion bronco buster of the plains" to be­ spiked just east of Strasburg, for the first Emilnie Gardenshire, an Englishman! time it was possible to cross this continent Through the years the rules have changed, on rail unbroken by a river crossing over but to this day rodeo remains a match be­ temporary track laid on ice or by ferry. On tween a willful cowboy and an unwilling that final day, a record 10%-mile gap was beast. Erected with the Deer Trail Pioneer filled, and a 11/z-day ride by palace car re­ Historical Society, 1969. placed the jolting, sleepless, week-long trip by stage and the rambling two-month jour­ ney by prairie schooner over the sunburned 61 plains. Erected with the Comanche Crossing RICHARD S. LITTLE. Westward at the base Historical Society, 1969. Littleton, on the of the hill, Richard S. Little built near a west side of Santa Fe running spring the first cabin in the Littleton Drive, 100 feet area. A engineer, he took up a south of Church St. land claim here in 1860, and homesteaded in BOULDER COUNTY Bronze 1862. A ditch of the Capitol Hydraulic Com­ pany, which he surveyed across this land, la­ ter powered the Rough and Ready Flour 63 Mills erected by Little and others in 1867. On OLD ENGINE NO. 30. Operated over the his land in 1872 he platted the town which narrow gauge railroad (opened in 1883), af­ Boulder, City Park now his name. He helped build its first fectionately known as "the Switzerland Trail at Broadway store, hotel, church and schools. Elected to of America," between Boulder, Eldora, and and Canyon Blvd. the legislature in 1873, he promoted irriga­ Ward, 1898-1919; and over the Denver and Bronze tion legislation. In 1884, he erected a sub­ South Park and the Rio Grande Southern stantial stone house on Rapp Avenue, where until 1952. A memorial to Colorado railroad he lived with his family until his death in and mining pioneers. Erected with the A rap­ 1899. Erected with the Littleton Area Histor­ ahoe Chapter, D.A.R., 1952. ical Society, 1959. 62 640 MILES TO DENVER. Those dangerous, discomforting days of staging to Colorado ended when the Kansas Pacific Railroad (paralleling U.S. 40) built west to tie Den- .•• ' . :>;;t ~~ • The Rich Earth 221 the main route traverses Springs first known for rich placer mines after their dis­ covery by George A. Jackson, January 1859. Georgetown once called the Silver Queen lies above. The gravel heaps along the stream were left by gold dredges early this century. Erected 1959. South of Longmont 64 at junction of RYSSBY. First Swedish settlement in Colo­ 67 State 119 and rado. Begun 1869-70. Homestead claims filed, GEORGETOWN. Commemorating the his­ County 20, turn 1870. Swede Ditch constructed, 1871. Log torical importance of the Georgetown mining Georgetown, at west for 4. 7 miles, schoolhouse built, 1875. Ryssby church, re­ region. The Griffith Lode (2500 ft. N.E.), later southwest corner then south on ligious and social center, built .1881-82. a silver producer, was discovered June 17, of 6th St. and . County 39 for 1 mile. Erected with the descendants and friends of 1859, by George W. Griffith, for whom Bronze Bronze the original Swedish settlers, 1933. Georgetown was named. Town site claimed June 29, 1860. The Belmont Lode (5.7 miles S.W.), first important silver discovery in Colorado, located Sept. 14, 1864. Boom pro­ CLEAR CREEK COUNTY ductions in 1870s and 1880s. Metal output totals $50,000,000. Erected with the George­ 65 town Library Association, 1935. . Across Continental Di­ Summit of Berthoud vide between South Platte and Colorado Ri­ 68 Pass, US 40. ver drainages. Altitude 11,314 feet. Discov­ GEORGETOWN LOOP. Site of the high Bronze ered by Capt. E. L. Berthoud, Colorado pio­ bridge of the Georgetown Loop, famed scenic On east side of neer, May 12, 1861. Surveyed by Berthoud railroad attraction. Built in 1883-84 as a old US 6, west and July, 1861. Toll road opened branch of the Union Pacific, and later ac­ of Georgetown. 1874. Improved highway opened 1923. Erected quired by the Colorado and Southern. Here Bronze with the U.S. Forest Service, 1929. the railroad track looped over itself, the high bridge being 75 feet above the track beneath. 66 Daily trains bulging with awed excursionists CLEAR CREEK CANYON. This creek saw once climbed the loop. It was abandoned and Roadside rest on the first great gold discoveries which con­ the high trestle dismantled in 1939. Erected north side of US 6, verted Colorado from a to a with the Georgetown Civic Association, 1947. 2 miles east commonwealth. The transcontinental high­ of State 119. way replaces a narrow gauge railroad which Wood first braved the gorge. Two miles above at Forks Creek the road branches right to old Central City and a cluster of once prosperous towns where now a summer opera festival flouri~hes. There in May 1859, John H. Greg­ ory found a gold vein, so founding the Little Kingdom of Gilpm County. Left at the forks 222 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 The Rich Earth 223

ican Pioneer Trails Association, Dr. Margaret 69 Long, and children of Franktown, 1946. HOTEL DE PARIS. A Norman inn built in Georgetown, on a great silver mining camp by a mysterious 72 hotel wall on 6th St. Frenchman called Louis Dupuy. Opened in NIGHTHAWK. Nighthawk, a gold mmmg near Taos St. 1875, richly furnished from and town and lumber camp with a population at Between Deckers and Bronze abroad, it became nationally noted for Con­ its height of one hundred, took its name from South Platte, % tinental delicacies and the literary bent of l that adopted by the mining district. It was mile south of Twin its proprietor, a philosopher, social rebel and platted by E. L. Rogers in 1896, on the east Cedars Lodge on master cook. Upon his death in 1900, Dupuy bank of the South Platte River near the South Platte River. was revealed as Adolphe Francois Gerard, a mouth of Pine Creek. Three hundred feet Wood French gentleman and refugee, formerly a southeast of this marker a hotel, post office, journalist in Paris, and New York. general store, livery stable, and blacksmith Erected with the National Society of Colonial shop were located. Two newspapers were Dames of America in Colorado, 1954. published in the settlement, the "Mountain Echo," from 1897 to 1899, and the "West 70 Creek Mining News," from 1898 to 1903. Trav­ McCLELLAN OPERA HOUSE. In 1868 Er­ elers arrived by wagon and stagecoach until skine McClellan erected on this site a place the Colorado and Southern Railway built a of public gathering, McClellan Hall, which narrow gauge road to Twin Cedars Lodge in he later enlarged, calling it the McClellan 1904. The line was abandoned in 1916. Erected Georgetown, on the Opera House. During the years 1869-1892, the with the Colorado State Society, Children of southeast corner of great and the near-great of the theatrical the American Revolution, 1968. 6th St. and Taos. world performed here. Georgetown was a Bronze two-night stand on both the silver and gold 73 circuits which played the Colorado mining TWENTY MILE HOUSE. Due west 1/4 mile camps. Erected with Barbara and Benjamin stood the Twenty Mile House (twenty miles Parker, on north­ Draper, the National Society of the Colonial from Denver). First house built in Parker, west corner of Dames of America in Colorado, and the Mc­ 1864. On the Smoky Hill Trail, an emigrant junction State 13 Clellan Players, 1962. route that was dotted with unmarked graves and Parker Road. of pioneers. Junction of the Smoky Hill Trail Bronze and Santa Fe stage lines. A refuge for early DOUGLAS COUNTY settlers against Indian attacks. Hostelry kept in turn by Nelson Doud and by Jam es S. 71 Parker (for whom the town of Parker is FRANKTOWN. Named for J . Frank Gard­ named). Erected with the American Pioneer Trails Association, Dr. Margaret Long, and Franktown, on west ner, a pioneer who settled here in 1859. First school children of Parker, 1945. side of State 83, known as "California Ranch," it was a way % mile south of station on the stage line between Denver and junction with Santa Fe. In a stockade built here, neighbors GILPIN COUNTY State 86. found refuge from Indians in 1864. Frank­ Bronze town became the first county seat of Doug­ 74 las County, in 1861 Erected with the Amer- GREGORY DIGGINGS. On this ground, la- 224 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 The Rich Earth 225

ter known as Gregory Diggings, John H. School of Mines. Built in 1866 as part of Jar­ Between Central Gregory of Georgia discovered the first gold vis Hall, through the efforts of Bishop George South of Golden, City and Black Hawk, lode in Colorado on May 6, 1859. This discov­ Randall and the Episcopal Church. The build­ in 2600 block of on south side of ery inaugurated the permanent development ing was destroyed by a wind-storm, August Jackson, on grounds Gregory St. of Colorado. The district has produced 12, 1869. Rebuilt 1870. The School of Mines of Lookout Mountain Bronze $85,000,000 in gold. Erected with the State became a territorial institution through deed­ School for Boys. Civil Service Employees of Colorado, 1932. ing of property and by legislative act of Bronze Feb. 9, 1874. The school was maintained here until 1879, when it was moved to its present location in Golden. Erected with the COUNTY Lookout Chapter, D.A.R., 1949. 75 7 8 GOLDEN. From 1862 to 1867 Golden was the ARAPAHOE CITY. In this immediate area territorial capital of Colorado. Legislative Golden, on building East of Golden once stood Arapahoe City, a pioneer placer sessions were held in this building (erected at northwest corner on the south side mining camp, the earliest town in Jefferson by W. A. H. Loveland) and in others, now of Washington Ave. of W. 44th Ave. County. Named for the Arapaho Indians. demolished, across the street. Golden was at 12th St. near Mcintyre. Town company organized Nov. 29, 1858. named for Thomas L. Golden who camped Bronze Bronze From here went George A. Jackson and John H. Gregory to make their historic gold dis­ on the site in 1858. Town founded by coveries near Idaho Springs and Central Company June 12, 1859. Incorporated Jan. 2, 1871. Erected with the Mount Lookout City. Arapahoe's population was 80 in 1860. Chapter, D.A.R., 1936. Extensive gold dredging operations of 1904 covered part of the site. Erected with the stu­ dents of Fairmont School, A. D. Quaintance, 79 and the American Pioneer Trails Association, MORRISON. George Morrison (1822-1895), of 1946. Scottish ancestry and a native of , Morrison, in came to Colorado in the Pike's Peak gold roadside park 76 rush of 1859. He acquired this land in 1864. 01 mile east of He was an organizer of the Morrison Town town on State 8. BERGEN PARK. Thomas C. Bergen took up Company (1872), which helped to bring the Bronze On south side the first squatter's claim here, June, 1859. Denver, South Park and Pacific narrow of State 74 at On this spot he completed his first log cabin gauge railroad to the town in 1874. Erected Bergen Park. July 4, 1859. "Bergen's Ranch" became a fam­ with the Red Rocks Lions Club, 1964. Bronze ous way station on the stagecoach and wagon road to the mines. This ground acquired for Denver Mountain Parks system, Oct. 13, 1915. 80 Erected with the City and County of Den­ SECOND SCHOOL. The second school in ver, 1934. Colorado was opened at Golden on January Golden, in entryway, 9, 1860, with eighteen students attending. Mitchell Elementary Thomas Dougherty was the teacher. The School, 12th St. 77 school house stood near the northeast corner at Jackson. COLORADO SCHOOL OF MINES. On this of Thirteenth and Washington streets. Erected Bronze site stood the first building of the Colorado with the citizens of Golden, 1939 .

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LARIMER COUNTY 85 81 DALE. Established in 1862 by CAMERON P A.S.S. Across Continental Di­ Overland Stage agent Joseph A. (Jack) 2 miles north of State 14 at vide between Cache la Poudre and Slade, the stage station may have been Virginia Dale in Cameron Pass. rivers. Altitude 10,285. Discovered 1870 by named after Slade's wife, Virginia. The bul­ roadside park on (Removed temporarily R. A. Cameron, founder of Fort Collins. Used let-riddled station served as a refuge from west side of US 287. in 1969 for repair as early mail and freight route. Improved Indian attacks for travelers and local resi­ Wood and relocation.) highway opened 1926. Erected with the U.S. dents. Slade himself gained notoriety for Bronze Forest Service, 1929. the killing of Jules Beni, one-time Over­ land Stage agent at Julesburg. It is said that Slade cut off Jules' ears after the kill­ 82 ing, nailed one to a post in the corral, and DAVID BARNES. In honor of David Barnes, carried the other on his watch chain. Slade L oveland, pioneer, 1821-1884. He erected a saw mill and was widely suspected of being in league with on southeast a quartz mill in Russell Gulch in 1859. Built stage robbers during his tenure at Virginia corner of 4th St. a flour mill on in 1863 and one at Dale, and the mountain to the northeast be­ and Cleveland Ave. Golden in 1866. Constructed the Barnes Ditch came known as Robbers' Roost, because of Bronze in the Big Thompson Valley, 1872. Upon his the thieves who hid there. Slade later led an land the city of Loveland was founded in outlaw gang in Virginia City, where his ca­ 1877. Erected with the Namaqua Chapter, reer came to a sudden and violent end in D.A.R., 1932. 1864, when he was hanged by the local vigi­ lance committee. Erected with the State De­ 83 partment of Game, Fish, and Parks, 1965. NAMAQUA. Home, trading post and fort of West of Loveland, in Mariano Modena, early trapper, scout and Fort Namaqua Park pioneer. First settlement in the Big Thomp­ WELD COUNTY ~ mile south of US 34. son Valley. Station on Overland Stage route Bronze to California in 1862. Erected with the Nam­ aqua Chapter, D.A.R., 1931. 86 CO LO RADO. Welcome to our plains and mountains! Here for centuries vast herds of Roadside rest on 84 buffalo darkened the landscape, grazing on west side of VIRGINIA DALE. Three-quarters of a mile the short grass. Indians hunted them for food US 85, near northwest from this point is the original Vir­ and skins. Later white men came to trap Rockport and ginia ·Dale, famous stage station on the Over­ beaver in the prairie channels and the moun­ Colorado- land Route to California, 1862-1867. Estab­ tain glens. Then thousands of adventurers state line. Fort Namaqua. lished by Joseph A. (Jack) Slade and named were lured to the peaks and by the Wood for his wife, Virginia. Located on Cherokee discovery of gold. They plowed fields, built Trail of 1849. Favorite camp ground for emi­ cities and founded a commonwealth. This 114 mile north of grants. Vice President Colfax and party were highway travels straight south to Denver Virginia Dale on detained here by Indian raids in 1865. Robert and beyond, past ranches and then irrigated east side of US 287. J. Spotswood replaced Slade. Erected with farms rich in grain and sugar beets. East­ Bronze the Fort Collms Pioneer Society, 1935. ward lie hundreds of miles of prairie now 228 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 The Rich Earth 229

dotted with prosperous towns. Westward rises the rampart of the Rocky Mountains 88 crested with summits like Longs Peak, James EV ANS. Construction of the Denver , Mount Evans and Pikes Peak. Old in Railroad, linking Denver and Cheyenne, Evans, on story. Erected 1956. stopped here for the winter of 1869, and a east side of town was begun. It was named Evans in us 85. 87 honor of the second territorial , Wood THE DENVER PACIFIC RAILWAY. When John Evans, builder of the Denver Pacific. East side of the Union Pacific Railroad decided to go According to tradition, the first church serv­ US 85, 114 mile through Wyoming instead of through Colo­ ices were held in railroad passenger coaches. north of Nunn. rado, many people moved from the territory. The townsite was part of a 900,000 acre land Wood Denver itself was shrinking. Former Gov­ grant the railroad received from the federal ernor John Evans rescued government to help finance construction by by promoting a connecting railroad from selling land to settlers. The St. Louis Col­ Denver to Cheyenne. The new railroad re­ ony, a cooperative agricultural community, ceived no federal bond subsidy as had the brought enough settlers to Evans to create a Union Pacific, but Congress provided a gen­ "boom town," which was the Weld County erous land grant to encourage investment. seat until it lost the honor in the seventies. Grading began in 1868, and the road was A stage line ran between Evans and Denver completed in June, 1870. The tracks ran until the completion of the railroad in 1870. through this point. Denver Pacific agents Erected with the students of Evans Junior­ encouraged settlers to purchase land on the Senior High School, 1965. company's grant, and Horace Greeley sup­ ported the idea of an agricultural colony in 89 the pages of his New York Tribune. The Un­ FORT JUNCTION. Two hundred feet due ion Colony at Greeley (1870) was one re­ east of this point stood Fort Junction, a sod East of Longmont at sult of these efforts. In 1880 the Denver Pa­ enclosure erected in 1864 by the pioneers of the junction of I-25 cific was absorbed by the Union Pacific. Boulder and St. Vrain valleys as a protec­ and State 119, 114 Erected with the State Department of Game, tion against hostile Indians. Garrisoned by mile north on the east Fish, and Parks, 1965. the home guards. Erected with the Tri-town side of Frontage Road. Lions Club (Frederick, Dacono, and Fire­ Bronze stone) and the Rinn Community, 1939. 90 . Due west % mile is the site of Fort Lupton, established in 1836 by US 85, 1.2 miles Lieut. Lancaster P. Lupton. A rendezvous of north of Fort Lupton. the early fur traders. Visited by Fremont and Bronze Kit Carson in 1843. Farming begun here in the early forties. Overland Stage station and refuge from Indians in the sixties. Erected with the Thursday Afternoon Club, and citi­ zens and pioneers of Fort Lupton, 1929. 230 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 The Rich Earth 231

Laramie on the North Platte, this country of wide horizons was the commercial center 91 of a vast region. Here trappers, traders and . Established in 1837 by Indians bartered calico, knives and beads for On grounds of Louis Vasquez and Andrew W. Sublette.1 buffalo robes and beaver skins. Built in 1835 Fort Vasquez State Maintained until 1842 as a post for trade in by Louis Vasques (later partner of Jim Historical Society buffalo robes and beaver skins with Arapa­ Bridger) and Andrew Sublette, this fort once Regional Museum, hoes and Cheyennes. Rendezvous of early was flanked by the South Platte River. In the .2 mile south of trappers. Emigrant station on Platte River spring of 1840 a mackinaw boat was launched Platteville on US 85 . Trail after gold rush of 1859. Erected w ith here loaded with 700 buffalo robes and 400 Bronze the State Civil Service Employees of Colo­ buffalo tongues. It reached St. Louis in 69 rado, 1932. days. Abandoned in 1842, the fort was ran­ sacked by Indians. Later partly restored it sheltered gold rush emigrants and troops dur­ ing Indian troubles. Fort Vasquez was recon­ structed on its original site from adobe bricks made from remains of its crumbling walls. Weld County's so-called first court house stands near the gate. Erected 1959. ..,

92 FORT V ASQUEZ. In this area along the Same lo cation South Platte River, competing fur companies as above. in the late 1830's established a string of four Wood adobe tradin g posts- Fort Vasquez, Fort St. Vrain, Fort J ackson, and Fort Lupton. Tra­ versed by the old Trappers' Trail which con­ nected Fort Bent on the Arkansas with Fort

1 The fort w as established in 1835, not 1837. See LeRoy R. Hafen, F ort Vasquez (De n ver : The State Historical So­ ciety of Colorado, 1964), p. 10. Wide Valleys and Soaring Peaks

Through the , South Park, and the mountain basins of the Arkansas came the Indians, the Spanish settlers, trap­ pers and traders, prospectors, cattlemen, and vigilantes. A region of extremes, from the state's highest peaks down into immense PARK bowls, the central and south-central portions of Colorado remain today part of the rural West.

CHAFFEE COUNTY 93 CHRISTMAS 1806. Frustrated in their at­ tempt to climb Pike's Peak on November 27, In roadside rest on 1806, Zebulon Pike and his party of 15 west side of US 285, trudged on through South Park looking for 5 miles north of G»G the Red River, southern boundary of the Poncha Springs. SAqUACHE Purchase. After crossing Trout Wood Creek Pass, the explorers came again to the Arkansas River, with food perilously low. On Christmas Eve two hunting parties shot eight buffalo, and Christmas Day was spent near the mouth of Squaw Creek (one-half mile to the south) feasting on buffalo and repair­ RIO c:iRAND ing equipment. Early in 1807 Pike crossed into the San Luis Valley at the Great Sand O® and built a log stockade (recon­ •G) structed as a state historical monument) on COSTILL A the Conejos River near present La Jara, CONEJOS•• where he was taken prisoner by the Spanish. G Erected with the Chaffee County Pioneer and fl) Historical Society, 1964. 234 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970

CONEJOS COUNTY Dec. 12, 1863, was under the Jesuit Fathers 1871-1920. Since 1920, it has been under the 94 Theatine Fathers. Fire destroyed the church CUMBRES PASS. Near Continental Divide on Ash Wednesday, 1926. Tihen, third bishop of Denver, dedicated a new Between Antonito and between the waters of the Rio Grande and church Dec. 12, 1927, In 1948 this church was Chama on north the San Juan. "Cumbres" is Spanish for enlarged and embellished with its towers by side opposite road "summit." Altitude 10,022 feet. Railroad built the Rev. Michael Pascual, C.R., pastor. The to Cumbres depot. 1880. Toll road built 1881. Improved highway Most Rev. Joseph C. Willging, first bishop Bronze opened 1923. Erected with the U.S. Forest Service, 1929. of Pueblo, dedicated an addition to the church on Aug. 7, 1948. Erected 1958. 95 LA JARA CONSOLIDATED SCHOOL. 98 La Jara, on school District Number 1. Organized January 25, PIKE'S STOCKADE. On this ground stood grounds at northeast 1915, for the betterment of rural education. Pike's Stockade, erected in February, 1807, 5 miles east of corner of Main St. The first consolidated school in the San Luis by Capt. Zebulon Montgomery Pike, U.S.A., Sanford. Road at Poplar. Valley. Erected with the students and board first official American explorer of Colorado marked by guide Bronze of education of the consolidated school, 1950. and the Southwest. First U.S. fort on Colo­ signs. rado soil. Site acquired by the state, 1926. Bronze Erected with the Historical Association of the 96 Adams State Teachers College, 1936. MORMON PIONEERS. In 1878, Mormon pi­ Manassa, on the oneers came from the southern states and north side of , settling first at Los Cerritos. In 1879, State 142 across they organized the town of Manassa, built from Dempsey Park. homes, a school house, and place of worship Bronze from native logs. Settlements of Ephraim (1879) and Richfield (1881) and others hav­ ing been made, the San Luis Stake was or­ ganized June 9, 1883. Erected with the Daugh­ ters of L.D.S. Pioneers, 1963. 97 . D.O.M. June Conejos, entrance 10, 1958. This tract was selected by Bishop to grounds, Our Lady Machebeuf, for the first permanent church in of Guadalupe Church, Colorado. Here was built a jacal (picket) off US 285. church, later replaced by a larger church. The Bronze first parish of Colorado was erected 100 years ago with Our Lady of Guadalupe as patron by John B. Lamy, first bishop of Santa Fe. Father Montano was the first pastor. The finished church, dedicated by Bishop Lamy on 236 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Wide VaHeys and Soaring Peaks 237

COSTILLA COUNTY settlers against Indians and outlaws. In 1863, when the Espinosa bandits eluded capture by On east side of 99 the troops, an old scout, Tom Tobin, was put State 159, across ALFRED M. COLLINS HALL. Named in ap­ on the bandits' trail. He was back at Fort from Fort Garland. preciation of services in the reconstruction of Garland in five days, the Espinosas' heads in 1'viuseum. Bronze Fort Garland, 1950. a sack across his saddle. Kit Carson com­ Wood manded Fort Garland 1866-67 as an officer in the New Mexico Volunteers. The fort was 100 built in 1858 and abandoned in 1883. Most of FORT GARLAND. United States military State Historical its original buildings await your inspection. outpost to protect settlers from hostile In­ Erected 1959. Society Regional dians. Named for Brig. Gen. John Garland, Museum, on north commander of this district in 1858. Estab­ 103 side of entrance lished 1858. Abandoned 1883. Commanded by SAN LUIS PEOPLES DITCH. Commemorat­ gate on State 159. Col. Kit Carson, 1866-7. Erected with the Hua­ ing the San Luis Peoples Ditch, the oldest Bronze jatolla Chapter, D.A.R., of Walsenberg, 1930. continuously used ditch in Colorado, with San Luis, on east court decree priority no. 1, and dating from side of State 159, 101 April 10, 1852. Dug by the pioneer settlers at south end of FORT GARLAND STATE HISTORICAL of Colorado. Colorado's greatness is built upon town. MONUMENT. This property was presented irrigation. Original water rights decreed to: Bronze On south side to the State Historical Society by the Fort of entrance gate. Garland Historical Fair Association, which Bronze saved the fort for posterity. Established No­ vember 30, 1945, as a memorial to the first Colorado settlers, and the U.S. Army troops who protected them. Erected 1949. 102 FORT GARLAND. Across the road is old Fort Garland, U.S. Army outpost abandoned long ago but still alive with memories and mementoes of frontier military life when the Dario Gallegos, Donaciano Gallegos, Juan A. San Luis Valley was still a part of New Mex­ Trujillo, Maria Rosa Vigil, Jose Ylario Valdez, ico. Fort Garland's troops protected the white F. J armillo, Rumalda Gallegos, Eulogia Gal­ legos, Rafaela Sanchez, Juan Martinez, Fran­ cisco Valdez, Manuel Vigil, Eusebio Bargas, Juan Valdez, Francisco Sanchez, Soledad Pacheco, Francisco Barela, Isabel Pacheco, Roberto Allen, Mariano Pacheco, Juan Pa­ checo, Juan Antonio Baca, A. A. Salazar, Eulogia Herrera, Juanita Herrera, Antonio Pacheco, Miguel Martinez, Rumaldo Martinez, Donaciano Martinez. Erected with the heirs of the pioneers and the Irrigation Commission, 1952. 238 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 104 107 San Luis, on SAN LUIS VALLEY. Commemorating the HEALY HOUSE. A regional state museum. Costilla County historical importance of the pioneers who Erected 1878 by August R. Meyer, builder of courthouse grounds. were responsible for the first permanent Leadville's first reduction works. Given to on east side of State 159. settlement in Colorado, 1851. Erected with the the Leadville Historical Association, 1936, by Bronze citizens of the San Luis Valley, 1951. Nellie Healy, agent for the heirs of Daniel Leadville, at Healy. Presented to the State of Colorado by Harrison Ave. and said association, 1947, and established as a E. 10th St. at monument to the silver mining era of the State Historical state by the State Historical Society of Colo­ LAKE COUNTY Society Regional rado and the Leadville Historical Association. Museum. Erected with the Leadville Historical Asso­ Bronze 105 ciation, 1948. . Dexter Cabin, erected in Leadville, at Harrison 1879 by James Dexter, pioneer Lead­ ville mining man. Purchased in 1936 by the 108 Ave. and E. 10th St., LEADVILLE. Entering the Cloud City. Alti­ at State Historical Leadville Historical Society, through gift of tude 10,152 feet. Here on the roof-top of the Leadville, Society Regional Phyllis Campion Webster, and presented to nation flourished about 1877 the most famous Harrison Ave. Museum. the state in 1947. Restored by the State His­ silver mining camp in the world. Perhaps (US 24) at Elm. Bronze torical Society of Colorado as a memorial to perpetuate the name of James V. Dexter, 30,000 fortune hunters made this town about Wood through bequest of Roland G. Parvin, his 1880 the second largest city of Colorado. son-in-law. Erected 1950. Here grew fabulous fortunes-among many that of H. A. W. Tabor. A gay and cultivated social life, violent labor contests, ambitious 106 projects like the Ice Palace marked the city. FREMONT PASS. On Continental Divide Summit of Fremont between Arkansas and drainages. Pass on State 91. Altitude 11,316 feet. Western boundary of the Bronze of 1803. Named in honor of John C. Fremont, famous western ex­ plorer. Erected with the Chapter, D.A.R., 1930. 240 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Wide Valleys and Soaring Peaks 241

In 1860, gold was discovered nearby in Cal­ opportunity and fair dealing. Site visited by ifornia Gulch but soon was exhausted. The Captain John C. Fremont and Kit Carson in Fairplay, southeast miners scattered. Seventeen years later a 1844. Fairplay Diggings organized and min­ corner of courthouse heavy sand discarded by prospectors as a ing laws enacted in April, 1860. Seat of Park grounds, on north nuisance in the pine woods hereabout was County since 1867. Stone courthouse erected side of State 9. found to be silver carbonate. Westward loom in 1874. Erected with the South Park Histori­ Bronze , Colorado's highest peak, and cal Society, the American Pioneer Trails As­ Mount Massive. The Sawatch (Blue Earth) sociation, Lions Club and school children of Range to the west and the Mosquito to the Fairplay, and Dr. Nolie Mumey, 1946. east contain several of the loftiest mountains in . Healy House and Dexter 112 Cabin State Museum, Harrison Avenue and HOOSIER PASS. Across Continental Divide East Tenth Street, depict life in pioneer between South Park and Blue River. Alti­ Summit of Hoosier Leadville. Erected 1960. tude 11,542 feet. Crossed by Fremont, 1844. Pass, on State 9. Named for Hoosier Gulch, discovered and Bronze 109 worked as a placer camp by men PASS. Across Continental Di­ 1860. Erected with the U.S. Forest Service, At summit of vide between Arkansas and Eagle rivers. Al­ 1929. Tennessee Pass, titude 10,424 feet. Named from Tennessee us 24. Fork of the Arkansas. Explored by Fremont Bronze and Kit Carson, 1845. Railroad constructed 113 SOUTH PARK. Spread before you lies the 1881. Erected with the U.S. Forest Service, Summit of 1929. famous South Park entered by Kenosha Pass, elevation 10,000 feet. The Bayou Salado of Kenosha Pass, on early trappers. Favorite Indian hunting south side of US 285. ground and frequent battleground. Visited by Bronze MINERAL COUNTY Z. M. Pike in 1806. Crossed by J. C. Fremont in 1844. Permanent settlement inaugurated 110 by gold discoveries in 1859. Erected with the WOLF CREEK PASS. Across Continental State Civil Service Employees of Colorado, Wolf Creek Pass, Divide between the waters of the Rio Grande 1932. on south side of and the San Juan. Altitude 10,850 feet. Named us 160. for Wolf Creek, tributary of the San Juan. 114 Bronze Early Ute trail. First road built by Colorado TARRY ALL DIGGINGS. Extending up this highway department and opened 1916. creek to the mountains were Tarryall Dig­ On north side of US 285 Erected with U.S. Forest Service, 1929. gings discovered in July, 1859. Towns of at , Hamilton and Tarryall (2 miles west) 4.6 miles west of thrived in 1860s. A newspaper and numerous Jefferson or 1.8 miles business houses flourished. The towns have east of Como. PARK COUNTY long since disappeared. Large trees now grow Bronze 111 FAIRPLAY. Named by the pioneer miners in expression of their determination for equal 242 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/ 3 1970 Wide Valley s and Soaring Peaks 243

in the sluice tailings on the bluff 112 mile "mining triangle" of the San Juan to the gov­ west. The diggings have produced $2,000,000 ernment. Erected with the Saguache Kiwanis in gold. Erected w ith Foster Cline, 1933. Club, 1959. 118 Rro GRA N D E Co uNTY SAGUACHE. Name derived from the Indian word meaning "blue water." Gov. Anza Saguache, Courthouse 115 passed near here 1779. On a branch of old S quare, east off FRE.lun·T CA.lf P. Near this spot J ohn C. Spanish Trail. Antoine Robidoux, fur trader, us 285. Del N orte, northwest cor­ Fremont camped on his disastrous attempt to took wagons past here in 1841. The explorers B ron ze ner, US 160 at S tate 11 2. cross the mountains December, 1848. Erected J. C. Fremont and J . W. Gunnison passed Bronze with the Del Norte Community Clu b, 1928. here in 1853. Often visited by and . Col. Fauntleroy had a battle with the Utes near here in 1855. Saguache County created in 1866. Town founded 1867 ; incorpo­ S AGUAC H E COUNTY r ated 1874. Erected with the American Le­ 116 gion of Saguache, 1947. COCHETOPA. PAS."i. Across Continental Di­ Between Gunnison and vide between Rio Grande and Saguache, off State 11 4 d rainages. Altitude 10,032 feet. The "Buffalo SUMMIT COUNTY on County 20 at Old Gate" of the Utes. On early pack trail to Cal­ . ifo rnia. Surveyed by Gunnison and by Fre­ Bron ze mont fo r railroad route 1853. Toll road built 119 1869. Improved highway opened 1914. Erected COLORADO'S MECHANICAL MINERS. with the U.S. Forest Service, 1929. These rock piles were left by nine gold On State 9, dredging boats, the first to operate in the 1 mile north of 117 state. Brought here by Ben Stanley Revett, Breck enridge. the earliest boats began dredging near the Wood OTTO .l/EARS PARK. This park is dedi­ mouth of the Swan in 1898 and moved along S agiw che, on east cated to Otto Mears, Russian-born Colorado the Swan and Blue rivers and French Gulch. side of US 285. pioneer, known as "The Pathfinder of the Much like the old time prospector sluicing Bronze San Juan," who came to the San Luis Valley a creek bed, the mechanical miners dredged in 1865. In Saguache (a Ute Indian word up these glacial rocks and separat.ed them meaning "Blue Earth"), Otto Mears was from the finer gravels from which they married in 1870, establishing his h ome across washed the gold. Weighing as much as five from this park. He built a toll road over hundred tons, the boats floated on ponds they Poncha Pass, the first one in the area; ran created while dredging the river beds to freighting teams; established mining camps; depths of fifty feet in a swath some two hun­ published two newspapers and constructed dred feet wide. The massive dredges con­ railways. He was for a time treasurer of Sa­ tinually threatened to invade Breckenridge guache County. As a commissioner he helped itself until one finally succeeded in cutting to build the State Capitol, and suggested cov­ its way through the mining town. The last ering the dome with gold leaf. As a friend of boat ceased operations in 1942. Erected with Ouray, Mears induced the Utes to cede the the Summit Historical Society, 1968. Trail of the Padres

A thousand years ago the home of the Ana­ sazi, or ancient peoples of Mesa Verde and the area, now is the home of the Ute Indians. Spanish MESA padres, following Indian trails, here sought a route to the missions and trade centers of California. Rich in minerals, the jagged San DELTA J uans today remain largely wilderness. To ~@ the north and west lie agricultural areas.

GUNNISON ® ARCHULETA COUNTY 120 ALBERT H. PFEIFFER. One of the bravest and most colorful Indian fighters in the West, In roadside rest on Pfeiffer served under Col. Kit Carson in the north side of US 160, 6 miles west of SAN MIGUEL 1863-64 campaign against the and Navahos of New Mexico. Many Utes served Pagosa Springs. with Capt. Pfeiffer, and he was made an Wood honorary member of their tribe. He saw his DOLORES beautiful young wife murdered by hostile Indians at the hot springs near Fort McRae, a tragedy that haunted him the rest of his life. In 1866, according to one story, Pfeiffer was chosen to represent the Utes in a duel e against a Navaho tribesman for possession MONTEZ•UM of the Pagosa Hot Springs. The contest took @ place on this site. Pfeiffer struck the first LA PLATA• blow, plunging a knife into his opponent's ARCHULETA chest. The crestfallen Navahos kept their e •e bargain and left the Utes in possession of 246 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 TraiL of the Padres 247

the Pagosa Springs, won for them by the and the Colorado River, then pushed north­ daring Pfeiffer. Erected with the State De­ ward to discover the White River. Thence partment of Game, Fish, and Parks, 1965. westward they reached Utah Lake. Erected with the Chamber of Commerce of Delta, 1960.

DELTA COUNTY 121 GUNNISON COUNTY ESCALANTE CANYON. In 1776 the Spanish In roadside rest on missionary-explorers, Fray Francisco Atana­ 123 south side of US 50 sio Dominguez and Fray Silvestre Velez de GUNNISON. Capt. John W. Gunnison, ex­ at entrance to Escalante, led an expedition through western plored this region for the United States gov­ Escalante Canyon Colorado. Their purpose was to find a prac­ ernment in 1853, seeking a transcontinental road, 12 miles north­ tical route between Santa Fe and the new railroad route. He and others in his party west of Delta. missions in California, to convert the Utes were killed in eastern Utah by Indians on Gunnison, on school Wood and Havasupais, and to establish a chain of October 26, 1853. The river, county, and city grounds at northwest stations between Santa Fe and Mon­ perpetuate his name in Colorado. Erected corner of Virginia terey. Neither objective was realized, but with the Pioneer Society of Gunnison County, Ave. and . they explored more unknown territory than 1946. Bronze Lewis and Clark, added vastly to man's knowledge of this new land, and set a new standard for friendly relations with the In­ dians. The Escalante expedition did not ac­ LA PLATA COUNTY tually traverse this section of the Gunnison River, having circled to the east of . In 1875, however, geologists with the 124 Hayden Survey named this creek Rio Esca­ BAKER'S BRIDGE. Captain Charles H. lante and one downstream Rio Dominguez in Baker, who discovered gold in the San Juan US 550, 13 miles honor of these pioneering Spanish padres. in 1860, led a party of prospectors to this area north of Erected with the State Department of Game, in 1861. They placer mined on El Rio de las to Pinkerton Fish, and Parks, 1965. Animas, built the first bridge (300 feet Hot Springs, V2 north), and established the town called Ani­ mile east on gravel road. 122 mas City. It was a mile and a half north of Bronze ESCALANTE-DOMINGUEZ EXPEDITION. In same roadside An expedition led by Padres Escalante and park with the Dominguez traversed this vicinity in late above wooden marker. summer, 1776, seeking a route from Santa Fe Bronze to the California missions. Guided through this area by Ute Indians, these Franciscan fathers were the first white men to explore and name many rivers and mountains in western Colorado. They crossed Grand Mesa, 248 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Trail of the Padres 249

the present site of Durango. Many suffered and mountains in southwestern Colorado. great hardships. Some perished from the win­ Erected with the Chamber of Commerce and ter storms. When no profitable mines were citizens of Durango, 1946. found the area was abandoned for a decade. Baker joined the Confederate forces during 127 the Civil War. Later he returned to the San (Ute Memorial) Juan where he was killed by Indians. Baker's BUCKSKIN CHARLEY. To the memory of first bridge was used for half a century.2 Buckskin Charley, chief of the Southern Utes. Ouray Memorial Erected with the Sarah Platt Decker Chap­ Counselor for peace, champion for agricul­ Cemetery, ter, D.A.R., 1961. tural advancement of his people. A friend Ignacio. and beloved by all who knew him. Date of Bronze 125 birth unknown. Died: May 9, 1936. Erected COLORADO. The mountain state of the Un­ with the Council of the Southern Ute Tribe On east side of US 550 ion welcomes you! To the north lies the city of Indians, 1953. at Colorado-New of Durango at the foot of the rich and spec­ Mexico state line, tacular San Juan and San Miguel mountains. 128 11/4 miles south To the west lies Mesa Verde , (Ute Memorial) of Bondad. famed for its cliff dwellings. To the northeast OURAY. To the memory of Ouray, chief of are deep forests and cool rivers fed by moun­ Wood the Utes. A man of vision, a statesman, and a Same location tain snows. When white men first ventured leader who counseled peace and friendship at above. here, warlike Indians-, Apaches and with the pioneers. Date of birth unknown. Bronze Utes-defended these hunting grounds. The Died: August 24, 1880. Erected with the Coun­ more peaceful Pueblos lived as agricultural cil of the Southern Ute Tribe of Indians, 1953. Indians in adobe towns. Spanish priests and soldiers explored here three centuries ago, seeking gold, teaching Christianity, naming streams and summits. Fur hunters succeeded them from 1820 to 1850. In 1860 gold hunters penetrated here but were driven back by In­ dians until 1872. Erected 1956. 126 ESCALANTE EXPEDITION. The Escalante On south side of expedition led by Padres Escalante and Do­ US 550, 4 miles minguez, crossed the in this south of Durango. vicinity on August 8 and 9, 1776. These Fran­ Bronze ciscan fathers, seeking a route from Santa Fe to the California missions, were the first MESA COUNTY white men to explore and name many rivers

'Baker established the origin a l Animas City at Baker's Bridge. See Rocky Mountain News (Denver), January 129 21, 1861, p. 2, and May 15, 1861, p . 2. Baker was killed near the Colorado River in Utah, according to his com­ COLORADO. Named for the great river panion James White in a letter, now m the Bancroft Library, to his brother September 26, 1867 . which rises in it and flows out seven miles 250 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 Trail of the Padres 251

south of this point. The mesas, mountains MONTROSE COUNTY On the south side and plains of Colorado were the home first of US 50-6, of wandering Indians, especially the Utes in 131 1 mile east of Mack. the west and the ancestors of the Pueblos CHIEF OURAY STATE HISTORICAL MON­ Wood who built the cliff dwellings to the south­ UMENT. This area was once a part of the 2 miles south of west. Three centuries ago Spanish priests and farm of Ouray, Chief of the Ute Indians, and Montrose, US 550 , soldiers from Mexico explored and claimed of his wife, Chipeta. Presented to the State on Ute Indian Museum. this land. From 1820 to 1850 many solitary Historical Society of Colorado by the Uncom­ Bronze hunters for beaver fur traced every water pahgre Chapter, D.A.R., which saved it for course. Created as a territory in 1861, a state posterity. Established as a memorial to these in 1876, Colorado has ever since grown and great Utes, May 31, 1945. Erected 1949. prospered. The Mountain State welcomes you to its peaks, its canyons and tumbling streams-only an hour or two eastward. Erected 1956.

MONTEZUMA COUNTY 130 THE SLEEPING UTE. The mountain forma­ In roadside rest on tion to the southwest, known as Ute Peak, or north side of US 160, the Sleeping Ute, has an elevation of 9884 132 feet at its highest point. The profile of a man 4 miles west of CHIEF OURAY STATE HISTORICAL MON­ lying asleep is easily identified. The head, entrance to UMENT. This area was once a part of the Same location as above, face turned to the side, is at the northern Mesa Verde. farm of Ouray, chief of the Ute Indians, and at road junction. end; the arms are folded across the chest; Wood his wife, Chipeta. The park contains a me­ Wood the knees seem to be flexed slightly; even the morial shaft, the graves of Chipeta and her toes are apparent. According to a Ute legend, brother, Chief John McCook, and the Ute In­ one of the gods became angry at his people, dian Museum. In the museum are many rare gathered the rain clouds together and lay Indian relics, including the Thomas McKee down to sleep. When the clouds hang over collection. Chief Ouray, who spoke English the peak, they are said to have slipped out and Spanish, as well as several Indian dia­ of his grasp. The legend also says that one lects, was one of the great Indian leaders in day the god will cease to be angry and that American history, always keeping faith with he will awaken and lead the Utes in van­ the whites. He induced the Ute tribe to cede quishing their enemies. Erected with the to the whites the area now embraced in the State Department of Game, Fish, and Parks, 1966. San Luis Valley and the land of the Western Slope of Colorado. Chipeta was wise and in­ telligent. This property, saved to posterity by the Uncompahgre Chapter, of the D.A.R., was deeded to the state in 1945. Erected 1960. 252 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 Trail of the Padres 253

OURAY COUNTY 133 . Following the Meeker 135 On the west side Massacre of 1879 and the ambush of Major PASS. Across divide be­ of US 50, 7.2 miles T. T. Thornburgh's relief force, Colorado res­ tween Uncompahgre and Animas rivers. Al­ At Red Mountain Pass south of Montrose. idents demanded the removal of the Ute In­ titude 11,018 feet. "The Million Dollar High­ between Ouray and Wood dians. A treaty was signed, but the Uncom­ way" toll road built by Otto Mears 1882. Im­ Silverton, on west pahgre Utes proved defiant, and in July, 1880, proved highway opened 1924. Erected with side of US 550. the "Cantonment on the Uncompahgre" was the U.S. Forest Service, 1929. Bronze established on this site to guard the settlers and pacify the Indians. After the Ute removal in 1881 the camp settled down to routine gar­ rison duty. In 1886 the post was renamed Fort Crawford in honor of Captain Emmet Craw­ ford, killed that year fighting 's band. By the end of the decade the fort had outlived its usefulness. It was de­ activated in 1890; the buildings were sold at auction, and the land was opened to settle­ ment. Erected with the Chipeta Chapter of the Colorado Archaeological Society, 1966. 134 HANGING FLUME. The hanging flume still On the west side of clings to the cliff walls 150' above the Dolores State 141, 6 miles River. Built in the early nineties, this six­ northwest of Uravan. mile-long wooden channel, supplemented by Wood a seven mile ditch, was designed to carry water to the arid, gold-bearing sands of Lone Tree Placer. Timber for the 4' x 61 flume was floated down the finished channel; workmen were lowered in cradles from a shelf road 400' above the river or were suspended from a cantilever frame beyond the end of the completed platform. Although $173,000 (more than twice the original estimate) had already been spent on the project, construction was halted after the panic of 1893. The unfinished flume was operated on a limited scale, but so little gold was produced that the flume was finally abandoned. Erected with the Na­ turita Chamber of Commerce and the Bureau of Land Management, 1965. The Old West

Here meet the old West of the cowboy and "'~ --- ...... - 4••·" _ sheepherder and the new West of ski slopes, .. regattas, river running, and sportsmen. Away from the center of and recreation which the mountain areas offer, north­ west Colorado rolls down the Wes tern Slope toward Utah in immense undulating waves, with agricultural communities; ranches of wheat, sheep, cattle; and unbroken vistas of sage.

MOFFAT GARFIELD COUNTY

ROUTT 136 GLENWOOD SPRINGS. The hot springs Glenwood Springs, were prized and used by Indians since time at southeast immemorial. Visited by Richard Sopris and @ GRAND corner of Ninth white prospecting party, July 23, 1860. J. M. RIO BLANCO St. and Grand Ave. Landis squatted on site in 1879. Indian land (State 82). until Ute removal, 1881. Town founded 1882, Bronze incorporated, 1885. Named for Glenwood, Iowa, and for the mineral springs here. Gar­ EAGLE field County seat since 1883. First railroad GARFIELD arrived October, 1887. A region rich in mines and ranches, scenic and recreational attrac­ tions. Erected with the Lions Club of Glen­ wood Springs, 1947. PITKIN 256 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVII/3 1970 The Old West 257

GRAND COUNTY Cut-off, the reduced the rail route over the Divide by 23 miles in distance and 2,421 feet in altitude. It cut the rail dis­ 137 tance between Denver and by GORE PASS. Altitude 9,000 feet. Here in 175 miles and put Denver for the first time At summit of pass 1855 3 crossed Sir St. George Gore, an Irish on a transcontinental rail line. When an as­ in roadside rest baronet bent on slaughter of game and guided sessment district extending from Denver to on south side of by Jim Bridger. For three years he scoured Craig agreed to tax itself for this purpose, the State 134. Colorado, Montana and Wyoming, accom­ tunnel was begun, in 1923. It was holed Bronze panied usually by forty men, many carts, through February 12, 1927. The first train wagons, hounds and unexampled camp lux­ through the tunnel emerged from this portal uries. More than 2,000 buffalo, 1,600 and February 26, 1928. Cost of constructing the deer, 100 bears were massacred for sport. A tunnel was 18 million dollars. Its name hon­ trail by 1866, a wagon road by 1874, this mod­ ors David H. Moffat, founder of the Denver ern highway opened 1956. Erected with the & Salt Lake line. Moffat died before the tun­ citizens of Routt and Grand counties, 1956. nel was built, but his vision inspired the army of engineers, contractors and workmen 138 in their historic battle against underground rivers and a tide of moving rock. Erected TRAGEDY. Near this site oc­ with the Denver and Rio Grande Western curred the Grand Lake tragedy of July 4, Railroad, 1959. 1883. It resulted from county seat rivalry, po­ litical conflicts, and personal quarrels. The three county commissioners-J. G. Mills, E. P. Weber, and Barney Day-were shot dead, Off Grand Lake County Clerk T. J. Dean was fatally wounded JACKSON COUNTY Lane, near and Sheriff C. W. Royer committed suicide shore at west 12 days later. One assailant, Bill Redman, end of Grand Lake. escaped and is said to have later killed him­ 140 Bronze self. Erected with the Rotary Club of Grand RABBIT EARS PASS. Across Continental At north end of Lake, 1954. Divide between North Park and the Yampa Dumont Lake road, River. Altitude 9,680 feet. Named from Rab­ off US 40. 139 bit Ears Peak which was so called by earliest (Proposed in 1970 trappers because of its appearance. Improved MOFFAT TUNNEL. Here, at an elevation of to be moved to US 40.) highway opened 1919. Erected with the State Bronze Winter Park, on 9,044 feet, is the West Portal of the Moffat Highway Department and the U.S. Forest south side of US 40. Tunnel. With an apex elevation of 9,239 feet, Service, 1929. Bronze this tunnel runs 6.2 miles through the Conti­ nental Divide, under . The rail­ road bore is 21 x 16 feet, the pioneer or water bore 8 feet in diameter. With the Dotsero MOFFAT COUNTY

"The altitude of the pass is about 9,528 feet, according to the 1955 U.S. Geological Survey bench mark. Gore crossed the pass in 1854, not 1855. See Clark C. Spence, 141 "A Celtic Nimrod 111 the Old West," Montana: The Mag­ COLORADO. This is the Mountain State of azine of W estern History, IX (Spring 1959), pp. 56-57, especially footnote I the Union. You enter it from the western 258 THE COLORADO MAGAZINE XLVIl/3 1970 The Old West 259

mesas and dry uplands cut by the great can­ S. Hazen, J. W. Hugus, James Kendall, Jam~s On north side of yons of the Colorado River and its tributar­ L. McHatton, Newton Major, Frank E. Sheri­ US 40 at Colorado­ ies. Colorado, first widely settled in the gold dan, G. Dana Thayer, Eddie P. Wilber, Mrs. Utah state line, 3 miles rush of 1859, became a state in 1876. Before S. C. Wright. Erected with the Chamber of west of . the gold discoveries, nomad Indians, then Commerce and citizens of Meeker, 1949. Wood Spanish explorers and later fur hunters trapping roamed through its moun­ tain ranges. Today seventh in area among the states, 1,500,000 people call it home. North ROUTT COUNTY of this point the great canyons of the Green and Yampa rivers are protected in Dinosaur National Monument. Just south are the oil 144 fields of Rangely along the White River. One FERDINAND VANDEVEER HAYDEN. The In roadside park on hundred odd miles east rise the Geological and Geographical north side of US 40, flanks of the Rocky Mountains. Colorado Survey of the territories completed. in the 6.3 miles northwest welcomes you! Erected 1956. 1870's by Professor Hayden was the first sys­ tematic study of the mineral wealth of the of Hayden and 10.4 Colorado mountains. William H. Jackson, of­ miles east of Craig. ficial photographer for the survey, made the Wood Rro BLANCO CouNTY first photographs of the and the Mesa Verde cliff dwellings. With amazing energy and thoroughness, Hay­ 142 den's parties sketched, measured, photo­ THE ESCALANTE EXPEDITION. Discov­ graphed, and chronicled the incredible geo.g­ Rangely, at ered White River (which they called the raphy of the Rocky Mountain West. The cit­ eastern city limits San Clemente) and crossed it near here on izens of Colorado recognized Hayden by nam­ on north side of Sept. 9, 1776. Seeking a route from Santa Fe ing streams, mountains, and even a ~ow~ State 64. to California, these Spanish explorers were after the eminent geologist. The towns1te is Bronze the first white men to examine much of west­ said to have been a camping place for the ern Colorado. Erected with the Rio Blanco party that surveyed the Yampa Valley. The County Historical Society and citizens of mountains that made Hayden famous also Rangely, 1951. brought his death. Weakened by "mountain fever," the aging scientist died in 1887. 143 Erected with the State Department of Game, FOUNDING OF MEEKER. Following the Fish, and Parks, 1965. Meeker, courthouse Meeker Massacre, Gen. Wesley Merritt es­ grounds, 1 block tablished at this site his "Camp on White west of State 13-789. River," 1879. After withdrawal of the Garri­ Bronze son in August, 1883, the town of Meeker was founded by the following pioneers: George S. Allsebrook, Charles S. Attix, Thomas Baker, William H. Clark, John C. Davis, Charles Dunbar, Samuel Fairfield, W. Harry Goff, A. J. Gregory, Henry J . Hay, George Missing Markers

COLORADO SEMINARY. Across Arapahoe Street to the south is the original site of Colo­ Denver, 14th and rado Seminary, now the University of Den­ Arapahoe streets. ver. Founded March 5, 1864, pioneer institu­ Bronze tion of higher learning in Colorado. On this corner stood the home of Territorial Gover­ nor John Evans, civic leader and principal founder of the . Erected with the University of Denver, 1955.

GRAND LAKE. Area, 507 acres; altitude 8,369 feet. Largest natural lake in Colorado. Source Grand Lake, US 34. of the Colorado River, which gave its name Bronze to the state. Visited by early trappers and hunters. Land acquired from the Utes, 1868. Town of Grand Lake founded 1879. County seat of Grand County, 1881-88. A political feud caused the massacre of four county of­ ficers July 4, 1883. Annual regatta inaugu­ rated 1901. Erected with the Grand Lake Woman's Club and the Grand Lake Chamber of Commerce, 1941.

LA VET A PASS. Between the waters of the South of US 160 Arkansas and the Rio Grande. Altitude 9,382 at old La Veta Pass. feet. "La Veta" is Spanish for "the vein." Bronze Named for the mineral veins appearing on the mountains. Narrow gauge railroad built 1877. Railroad later re-located. Abandoned converted into highway 1921-22. Erected 1929.

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MONARCH PASS. Across Continental Di­ North of US 50 at vide between Arkansas and Gunnison River old Monarch Pass. drainages. Altitude 11,386 feet. The Monarch Bronze Mining District, opened in the late seventies, lies east of the pass. Improved highway opened 1921. Erected with the U.S. Forest Service, 1929.

SMOKY HILL TRAIL. This monument About 101h miles stands on the Smoky Hill Trail on the Re­ north of A roya (off the publican-Big Sandy Divide, the route of the road, inaccessible). Butterfield Stage, 1866-1870. Fifty yards east Bronze the Texas-Montana Cattle Trail crossed the Smoky Hill Trail. Erected with Scouts of the Smoky Hill Trail, 1939.

STERLING. Commemorating the fiftieth an­ us 138. niversary of the incorporation of Sterling, Bronze Colorado. "Old Sterling," some three miles to the north, was founded in 1873 by pioneers from the southern states. The present city was platted in 1881, incorporated on Novem­ ber 10, 1884. The first officers were: George H. Wilson-mayor; John Alexander-clerk; W. L . Henderson, R. E. , J. M. King, J . E. Wallace, J. C. Strahorn-aldermen. Erected 1934.