Abruzzo in Autumn

Naturetrek Tour Report 8 - 15 September 2016

Abruzzo Chamois by Terry Coult Colchicum lusitanum by Jessica Turner

Val di Rose by Wendy Mattingley Spotted Fritillary by Alan Smith

Report compiled by Jessica Turner Images courtesy of Terry Coult, Jessica Turner, Paul Harmes, Wendy Mattingley & Alan Smith

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Abruzzo in Autumn

Tour Participants: Jessica Turner and Paul Harmes (leaders) with 12 Naturetrek clients

Summary

This was the second year for our autumn trip to the Abruzzo National Park. The wildlife was more elusive this year, but we were fortunate to have, albeit distant, views of a young Marsican Brown Bear learning to fend for itself. Red Deer were rutting, and the roars of stags echoed round the hillsides. We enjoyed a good range of late- summer butterflies and an interesting selection of plants, especially in the Sagittario Gorge where the Cyclamen and the Sternbergia were a particular delight. Bird life was fairly quiet, but the Golden Eagles and the migrating Marsh Harriers and Bee-eaters were a pleasure. We also enjoyed the picturesque and historic towns and villages of the area. Our hosts at the Albergo Paradiso, Geraldine and Marco, gave us a warm welcome and excellent hospitality, introducing us to several local specialities. A delightful week in a stunning location!

Day 1 Thursday 8th September

London Heathrow - Rome - Pescasseroli Ten group members met Jessica at London Heathrow, Terminal 5, for our 10.45am flight to Rome, where we met with Paul, John and Wendy, who had arrived independently. Having sorted out the minibuses, we successfully negotiated the Rome ringroad, noting the flowering Oleanders (Nerium oleander) along the central reservation, and Hooded Crow, Starling, Swallow and House Martin overhead; one group member reported a Black Stork in a field as we drove eastwards towards the Apennine mountains. The road passed through several tunnels and over deep valleys, bordered by a number of hilltop villages, and the countryside became more wooded. We stopped for a break and a leg-stretch just into Abruzzo Province, where a Sparrowhawk was seen. As we continued, we admired the evening light, giving a pink tinge to the mountains. We were soon passing the great plain by Avezzano, the site of Lake Fucino, once the third largest lake in Italy and now a fertile agricultural area. Skirting the plain, we started the climb into the Abruzzo National Park, noting the thickly-wooded hill- slopes, so characteristic of the area. The sunset behind the distant peaks was stunning.

Once we were in the park, it was a steady descent to Pescasseroli where, on the far side, we reached the Albergo Paradiso, our base for the week. On the way we saw two Red Foxes. We received a warm welcome, and were soon settled into our rooms, before an excellent dinner. Jessica outlined some of the plans for the week, and we retired for the night.

Day 2 Friday 9th September

Round the hotel; Val Fondillo; Opi This morning, before breakfast, we explored the area round the hotel so we could get our bearings. Many had been attracted to the overnight light in the porch and, among them, were Brimstone, Feathered Gothic, Orange Swift, Burnished Brass and Four-spotted Footman. A Spotted Flycatcher was sitting on the top of one of the Spruces in the garden, and a small flock of Linnets were in the bushes on the hillside beyond. We climbed the small hill behind the hotel, enjoying the views and spotting Red Deer on a far hillside. Plants included the

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Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

Acanthus-leaved Carline Thistle (Carlina acanthifolia) with its large, stemless flower, the ‘stemmed’ Stemless Carline Thistle (Carlina acaulis subsp. simplex) with slightly smaller flowers, and Carlina corymbosa with small flowers, along with the delightful Blue Eryngo (Eryngium amethystinum).

After breakfast, while waiting to leave, two Crossbills were seen in the conifers, and a Chalk-hill Blue butterfly was on the car park wall. Our destination today was Val Fondillo. We parked at the entrance to the valley, split up the components of our picnic, and set off in warm sunshine. Wild Boar had been foraging in the car park, digging up roots and bulbs. We noted heavy fruit crops on Sloe (Prunus spinosa), Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), Spindle (Euonymus europaeus), Wild Pear (Pyrus communis subsp. pyraster) and Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris). Red Deer stags could be heard roaring, and distant ones were seen. Many House Martins and Swallows were feeding low over the meadows, Common Buzzard was seen, and Common Wall Lizards were sunning themselves on a wooden fence. Plants in flower included Common Dodder (Cuscuta epithymum), Ox-eye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) and Nice Milkwort (Polygala nicaeensis). Butterflies were on the wing and nectaring on Mint and Carline Thistle flowers, including Adonis, Common and Chalk-hill Blues, Lang’s Short-tailed Blue, Brown Argus, Silver- spotted Skipper, Clouded Yellow and Great Banded Grayling. Up to three large raptors over the hillside were identified as Golden Eagles, their size particularly apparent when they were being mobbed firstly by Hooded Crows and then by Ravens. A flat grassy area held bright blue Fringed Gentians (Gentianopsis ciliatum) and a display of Autumn Crocuses (Colchicum lusitanum), some of the latter having been dug up by Wild Boar for their bulbs.

We had our picnic of delicious local cheeses and meats, and some enormous local plums, enjoying our surroundings. A male Red-backed Shrike was seen to add to the juvenile spotted earlier, and a female seen as we returned later. A boulder forming a cave held the endemic Reddish Saxifrage (Saxifraga porophylla), now past flowering, and a variety of ferns: Rustyback (Asplenium ceterach), Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) and Wall-rue (Asplenium ruta-muraria); a flash of red alerted us to a beautiful Red Underwing , resting on the rock face. Our path took us along a stream, and we could see Brown Trout in the clear waters. It climbed from the stream, where Jupiter’s Distaff (Salvia glutinosa) was growing on the bank. As we retraced our steps, we took a wide circuit of the valley, looking for the shrikes. Here, we found Spotted Fritillary and Silver-spotted Skipper enjoying the Carline Thistles and Blue Eryngo flowers.

After a rest and refreshments, we left the valley, noting the black clouds further down towards Villetta Barrea. As we went, we saw two Marsh Tits feeding on seed heads by the road. The threatened storms had not yet materialised, so we visited the little hill-top village of Opi, turning the minibuses and parking on the steep main street. From here we had excellent views both up and down the Sangro valley, where we could see and hear the thunderstorms around us. We learnt a little of the wartime history of this community, and Northern Wheatear was spotted. We then headed back to the hotel, meeting to discuss our day before another excellent meal. Afterwards, we finished updating our lists before bed.

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Day 3 Saturday 10th September

Gioia Vecchio; La Difesa; Vallone Pesco di Lordo; Bisegna viewpoint This morning we woke to grey skies that gave rain as we drove towards Gioia Vecchio before 7am. The conditions meant that visibility was very poor, but we recorded Red Deer, Roe Deer and two Common Buzzards from the road, and a Black Redstart at Gioia Vecchio. The rain did not last too long, but we decided to walk near the hotel, returning there for our picnic. Consequently, we took the vehicles the short distance to the start of our walk through La Difesa and the Vallone Pesco di Lordo. Here, there are ancient Beech trees (Fagus sylvatica), making it a potentially good habitat for woodpeckers, although none were seen today. Green and Great Spotted Woodpeckers and Nuthatch were heard, and birds seen included Firecrest, Marsh and Willow Tits, and Long- tailed Tits. Under the Beech trees, there was a fine stand of Herb Paris (Paris quadrifolia), each spike with its single black berry: an ancient woodland indicator species. A wide variety of mosses, lichens and ferns, including Brittle Bladder-fern (Cystopteris fragilis) and the lichen Lungwort (Lobaria pulmonaria) were growing over the exposed network of tree roots. A series of drinking troughs by a spring was a reminder of the days of ‘transumanza’, when the enormous numbers of sheep that used to graze the mountains of Abruzzo were driven south, down to Puglia for the winter months. In the stream were a large number of Common Toad tadpoles. Red Hemp-nettle (Galeopsis ladanum subsp. angustifolium), Purple Toadflax (Linaria purpurea) and Sedum hispanicum were in flower, and life included Clouded Yellow, Meadow Brown, Little Blue and Holly Blue butterflies, ‘Flash-colour’ grasshoppers that showed red or blue as they jumped, and a possible Wood Cricket (like a smaller Field Cricket). A caterpillar covered in white hairs but with three ginger ‘tufts’ was identified as the caterpillar of Nut-tree Tussock moth.

We returned to the hotel for a late lunch in the sun on the terrace, meeting there later in the afternoon to update our lists. Meanwhile, some of the group opted to explore locally or to walk into town. Two Red Squirrels were seen round the hotel, with their characteristic, very dark coloration, and a Violet Carpenter Bee was noted on Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis). We then met at 5.30pm to take a slow drive along the valley. Two Common Buzzards were again in a field, presumably looking for earthworms. A Red Fox was at the Bisegna road junction, and allowed good photographic opportunities, while another was further along the road. We stopped to scan, seeing distant Red Deer in the evening sun, while a much closer stag was bellowing. From the Bisegna viewpoint, we could see and hear several stags roaring and displaying, plus their ‘harems’, and we also recorded Marsh Tit. Des alerted us to a dark on the hillside, which turned out to be a Wild Boar moving through the scrub, and a Roe Deer was also seen. As the light faded, we returned to the hotel, seeing another Fox in a field.

Day 4 Sunday 11th September

Villetta Barrea; Passo Godi; Lago di Scanno; Gole di Sagittario; Cocullo; Bisegna The morning dawned cloudy. Wendy and John, out early, reported Black Redstart and Serin near the hotel. After breakfast, with the picnic on board, we set off down the Sangro Valley to the village of Villetta Barrea, where the Sangro river flows into the Lago di Barrea. Here we turned north, climbing up above the valley towards the Passo Godi. The cloud was producing some drizzle, but we stopped to admire the views back over the lake, and to scan the hillsides above. A good number of Red Deer could be seen on the slopes, albeit rather distantly

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today, but at least one much closer stag was bellowing, although it remained hidden. Kestrel and Buzzard were seen, while plants included the yellow hemi-parasites Odontites luteus and pink Odontites vulgaris. As we drove higher, the drizzle increased and the cloud enveloped us as we passed through the small ski resort of Passo Godi, and over the watershed at 1,564 metres. We came out of the cloud as we descended, and the weather started to brighten. We stopped in the historic town of Scanno, which dates back to the 11th century, with a maze of narrow streets and alleyways on the steep valley slopes. After coffee and time to explore this fascinating town, we continued down to the Lago di Scanno for our picnic, using benches at the water’s edge. Coot and Mallard were noted, while a local cat and a number of geese tried to join us. Unfortunately, the cloud gave way to further rain, and we finished our meal rather damply; however, it was only a shower that soon passed.

Moving on, we soon entered the stunning Gole di Sagittario, or Sagittario Gorge, where the road runs between steep limestone cliffs. We stopped at Villalago, by the lake, to explore the roadside cliffs. A group of Common Kestrels were hawking over the hillside (behaviour more commonly associated with Lesser Kestrel), Little Grebe was on the lake, and the Italian race of Yellow Wagtail was spotted. The plants here were more Mediterranean, with Spiny Spurge (Euphorbia spinosa), the very aromatic, white-flowered Winter Savory (Satureja montana), the similar but more spindly, pink-flowered Micromeria graeca, and the endemic bellflower Campanula fragilis subsp. cavolinii growing on the rocks. Other species included Hop Hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), the cream Scabious-like Cephalaria leucantha and Chicory (Cichorium intybus). A flock of Alpine Chough were heard and then seen above, but they did not fly over most of the group.

From here we continued through the gorge, taking a small turning to the right and parking at the start of a path along a section of the River Sagittario. As we started the walk, several piles of seed-filled droppings caught our attention, and we decided eventually that it must be a Badger latrine. We also noted several black Millipedes. Trees included Flowering Ash (Fraxinus ornus), Montpellier Maple (Acer monspessulanus) and Italian Maple (Acer opalus subsp. obtusatum), and we also noted Southern Polypody and Rustyback ferns (Polypodium cambricum and Asplenium ceterach), and short spikes of Forking Larkspur (Consolida regalis). The main delight here, though, was the carpet of pink Ivy-leaved Cyclamen (or Common Sowbread: Cyclamen hederifolium), illuminating the rather dark valley floor. As we reached a more open area where we could look up to the little town of Annversa above us, we saw a flock of about 30 Red-billed Chough. We passed a Fig tree (whose fruits had obviously been enjoyed by the Badgers), and also recorded both Annual and Perennial Honesty (Lunaria annuus and L. redivida), Plumbago (Plumbago europea) and some very tall spikes of Ploughman’s Spikenard (Inula conyza). We turned to retrace our steps and some of the group reported a vivid-yellow Crocus-like flower on the rock face - Sternbergia (Sternbergia lutea)! This delightful autumn-flowering bulb is very rare in this region of central Italy. As well as some plants high up on the cliff, we found one plant on the edge of some scree, which was accessible with care. We also recorded Blue Rock Thrush here, and a Wood White butterfly. Unfortunately the rain returned, so we had a rather damp walk back to the vehicles.

Again, the shower passed, and we drove along the rest of the gorge, seeing the flock of Red-billed Chough resting on the cliff face by a road tunnel. We then started the loop back towards Pescasseroli, driving north and west, through Cocullo, Ortona, San Sebastiano and Bisegna. Above Cocullo we had another stop, mainly to enjoy the wonderfully aromatic, dark-blue Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis), which was scenting the air along with more Winter Savory and Pink Micromeria. Here we also recorded a Curry Plant (Helichrysum italicum), Yellow

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Odontites (Odontites lutea) and carpets of the delicate-flowered Tunic Flower (Petrorhagia saxifraga), plus a Fox Moth caterpillar and a Spanish Slug. A flock of about 45 migrating Bee-eaters overhead was a surprise, and we also noted Common Buzzard.

On our return journey, we saw more Red Deer on a hillside, three Wild Boar scrumping apples in a roadside orchard, and Roe Deer in a field. Towards the Bisegna road junction were more Red Deer, and a Red Fox by the road was probably the one we had seen there previously. Although it was a long day, with a lot of driving, we all agreed that it had been very enjoyable.

Day 5 Monday 12th September

Gioia Vecchio; meadows behind hotel; La Cicerana (Bear watching) This morning dawned fine, becoming hot and sunny. We were out early, to drive again to Gioia Vecchio. En route we recorded Common Buzzard, a Red Deer hind, and a male Wild Boar, but this morning was mainly about Roe Deer. We saw three pairs and two singletons on the hillside across from Gioia Vecchio; as many as we’ve ever seen there. Birds included Buzzard, Black Redstart, Chiffchaff, Goldfinch and Jay.

After breakfast, group members had the opportunity to explore further the area round the hotel, either on their own or as a guided walk when Jessica and Paul returned from town. It was an excellent morning for butterflies, with those in the meadows recording Spotted, Silver-washed and Queen of Spain Fritillaries, Common and Chalk-hill Blues, Brown Argus, Clouded Yellow, Southern Grizzled Skipper, Small White, Speckled Wood and an Apollo. Birds included Kestrel, Chiffchaff and Serin. Wendy and John, exploring the area towards town, reported Red-backed Shrike, Blackcap, Common Redstart, Marsh Tit and Firecrest, amongst other birds, plus Southern White Admiral and Peacock butterflies.

We reconvened at the hotel for a cooked lunch and some free time before we drove into town to meet with Paolo, our Ecotur guide. He was going to take us to a remote rifugio, from where we would walk to a viewpoint from which we could see bushes of Rhamnus alpina on the mountainsides. The Rhamnus berries are favourites with Marsican Brown Bears, so this would be our best opportunity for seeing this endangered but iconic species. We drove to the Passo Diavolo, where we took a track to the barrier marking the entry to the restricted area. We parked here and prepared to walk, while Des travelled by Jeep with Cesidio and our supper. The grassy slopes were dotted with mauve Autumn Crocuses, both Colchicum lusitanum and C. neapolitanum, which has slightly broader tepals and yellower stamens. Butterflies included Great Banded Grayling, Common Blue and Silver- spotted Skipper, and we also recorded Green Tiger Beetle, the red-and-black Ground Bug Lygaeus saxatilis, and Meadow Pipit. Paolo pointed out where rocks had been turned over by bears looking for food, especially ants. When we reached the isolated rifugio at La Cicerana, we met Des and were delighted to be welcomed with a cup of tea! Dark clouds indicated the approach of a heavy storm, but soon there was a beautiful rainbow against the hills.

Rested and refreshed, we walked on the short distance to our viewing area with Paolo pointing out more signs of bear activity. We settled ourselves where we could look across to the hillside dotted with Alpine Buckthorn

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Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

(Rhamnus alpinus) bushes. Almost immediately, Wendy reported a movement, but none of the rest of us could see anything. However, a little later she reported another movement and, after a while, we could see a young Marsican Brown Bear feeding on the berries. It had probably only just left its mother, so would have been about two-and-a-half years old and at a particularly vulnerable stage of its life. Unfortunately, it was smaller than the bushes and spent most of the time behind them which, together with the distance, made it hard to see. However, it remained in the berry patch all the time we were there, and we felt privileged to have had this significant sighting of a young animal behaving perfectly naturally. While we were watching, we also recorded two Marsh Harriers on passage, Buzzard, Kestrel, Cirl Bunting and Red Deer, and we heard a Roe Deer barking.

As the light was fading, we walked back to the rifugio, where Cesido had prepared a delicious supper of soup, local wine, sausage and cheeses, encouraging us to try the strong-flavoured ‘Cacio marcetto’ pecorino. This is an Abruzzo speciality where the flavour is developed by the action of ‘cheese-fly’ maggots (and is Paolo’s favourite cheese). Eventually, we prepared ourselves for the walk back by moonlight and torchlight, with Des returning by Jeep, reporting two Nightjars on the road. The rest of us reached the vehicles and drove back to the hotel, after a fascinating evening.

Day 6 Tuesday 13th September

Val di Rose We woke to another fine day, ideal for our mountain walk up the Val di Rose. After breakfast, with picnic made, we drove back along the Sangro valley to Villetta Barrea, this time turning right over the river and up to the village of Civitella Alfadena, where we parked at the start of our path. We set off up the stony path, where plants in the initial section included Barberry (Berberis vulgaris), Cornelia Cherry (Cornus mas), Turkey Oak (Quercus cerris) and, in the open, Mountain Tragacanth (Astragalus sempervirens). We were concentrating on walking up the steep path through the Beech forest and glades, and the group soon strung out as people went at their own pace. It was misty at first in the valley, but this soon burnt off to reveal the silvery Lago di Scanno, below us. We could hear Red Deer, some quite close, and also heard Nuthatch, Chiffchaff and Green Woodpecker.

Eventually we reached the final glade, where we recorded a fine Scarce Copper, Chalk-hill and Common Blues and Wall Brown butterflies, and especially enjoyed the Blue Eryngo (Eryngium amethystinum). We also found a Ruby-tailed Wasp, and Paper Wasps at a nest. However, the main focus of our attention was the Abruzzo Chamois, of which we counted 17 on the slopes above us. They are an endemic race, and a different species from Alpine Chamois; this area is their stronghold. Having rested, it was not long until we reached the tree line and emerged into the open alpine meadows, with stunning views in all directions. There were more Chamois here, closer to us on the rocks and screes, including one resting on a boulder, giving great views. We ate our picnic by a solitary Sycamore tree, and continued to explore the area, some walking up to the Passo Cavuto (at 1,942 metres above sea level) and others to the ridge to the side. We saw a Red Deer hind silhouetted on a rock, Golden Eagle, Goshawk, Common and Black Redstarts and a flock of Alpine Chough. Plants included the tiny, endemic Gentianella columnae, Scabiosa silenifolia, yellow Small Scorpion-vetch (Coronilla vaginalis), Spring Gentian (Gentiana verna) in bud, Purple Toadflax (Linaria purpurea) and more Fringed Gentian (Gentianopsis ciliata). We also

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recorded Autumn Ringlet. Eventually, we all made our way down as the clouds were building, some of us getting caught in a light shower.

We reconvened at the Bar delle Lince in the village, where we enjoyed refreshments before returning to the hotel for a quiet evening. We all had a sense of achievement after our strenuous walk, and were all delighted to have seen the Chamois in such beautiful surroundings.

Day 7 Wednesday 14th September

Gioia Vecchio; Pescasseroli; La Cicerana We returned to Gioia Vecchio this morning at first light, seeing six Roe Deer and two Red Deer. Birds included Green Woodpecker, Black and Common Redstarts, Blackcap, Robin and Wren. Wendy and John, near the hotel, recorded four Red-backed Shrikes and enormous numbers of House Martins. Humming-bird Hawk-moth, Hebrew Character, Silver Y and an Orange Swift moth were among the moths in the hotel porch.

After breakfast, we all went into Pescasseroli to do some shopping, look round the market and explore the back streets of this little town. A Buddleia by the car park held a lot of insect life including Cardinal, Silver-washed and Queen of Spain Fritillaries, Long-tailed and Common Blues, Large Wall and Meadow Browns, Silver-spotted Skipper and Clouded Yellow amongst the butterflies. We also noted Violet Carpenter Bee, Hornet Hoverfly and a large metallic-green Chafer. We returned for lunch in the hotel and some free time. Marsh Tit and Long-tailed Tit were reported.

Two of the group opted for an afternoon enjoying the butterflies in the meadows by the hotel, and a quiet evening. The rest of us met to repeat our excursion to La Cicerana; however, this time, we would all be driven to the rifugio. Before we met Paolo, we treated ourselves to a genuine Italian ‘gelato’. We then drove to the Passo Diavolo, as before, then transferred to the Ecotur vehicles. This time we were watching different slopes. There were many Red Deer and we heard Roe Deer but, sadly, on this occasion we did not see any bears. We recorded Buzzard and a probable Golden Eagle, along with Green Woodpecker and Nuthatch. Plants included Maiden Pink (Dianthus deltoides) and a Cinquefoil, Potentilla detommasii. We also found an enormous Field-type Mushroom which had been broken off, which Paolo took home to eat. After another excellent supper in the cosy rifugio, we drove back to our vehicles, seeing Nightjar and hearing Tawny Owl. We returned to the hotel for our final evening together.

Day 8 Thursday 15th September

Pescasseroli – Rome - London

Today was our final morning, and we had to return to Rome. Wendy and John, out early, reported Yellow and White Wagtails, Red-backed Shrike and many Black Redstarts. After breakfast we loaded our luggage into the vehicles and said our farewells and thanks to Marco and Geraldine and the Albergo Paradiso. We drove north, past Gioia Vecchio, and down to the plain below, where we joined the autostrada for Rome. Near the airport, a final bird was Grey Heron. We reached the airport in good time and checked in for our flights, leaving behind

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the wonderful wildlife and beautiful scenery of the Abruzzo National Park. We then flew back to the UK where another Naturetrek adventure came to an end.

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Silver-spotted Skipper by Jessica Turner

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Species Lists:

Plants (* = a species is endemic)

The layout of the plant list, and plant names have been updated in line with current (mainly based on DNA studies) Scientific name Common name Location

PTERIDOPHYTES FERNS & ALLIES Leptosporangiate Ferns True Ferns Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family Asplenium ceterach Rustyback Val Fondillo Asplenium ruta-muraria Wall Rue Val Fondillo Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort Val Fondillo

Athyriaceae Lady-fern Family Athyrium felix-femina Lady-fern Gole di Sagittario

Cystopteraceae Bladder-fern Family Cystopteris fragilis Brittle Bladder-fern Val Fondillo

Dryopteridaceae Buckler-fern Family Polystichum aculeatum Hard Shield-fern Val di Rose

Polypodiaceae Polypody Family Polypodium cambricum Southern Polypody Gole di Sagittario Polypodium vulgare agg. Common Polypody La Difesa

GYMNOSPERMS CONIFERS Cupressaceae Juniper Family Juniperus communis Common Juniper Val Fondillo Juniperus communis var. saxatilis Dwarf Juniper Val di Rose Juniperus oxycedrus Prickly Juniper Gole di Sagittario

Pinaceae Pine Family Pinus mugo Dwarf Mountain Pine Val di Rose Pinus nigra subsp. nigra Austrian or Black Pine Val Fondillo

ANGIOSPERMS FLOWERING PLANTS Eu-dicots True Dicotyledons Adoxaceae Moschatel Family Sambucus ebulus Dwarf Elder Val Fondillo Sambucus nigra Elder Val Fondillo

Apiaceae Carrot Family Daucus carota Wild Carrot Val Fondillo Eryngium amethystinum Blue Eryngo Val Fondillo Eryngium campestre Field Eryngo Val Fondillo Seseli montanum subsp. tommasinii Seseli Val Fondillo

Apocynaceae Periwinkle Family Nerium oleander Oleander (planted) Rome ringroad

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Scientific name Common name Location

Vincetoxicum hirundinaria Swallow-wort Near hotel

Aralaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix Ivy Gole di Sagittario

Berberidaceae Barberry Family Berberis vulgaris Barberry Above Civitella Alfadena

Betulaceae Birch Family Corylus avellana Hazel La Difesa Ostrya carpinifolia Hop Hornbeam Gole di Sagittario

Boraginaceae Forget-me-not Family Cynoglossum montanum Mountain Hound's-tongue La Difesa Cynoglossum magellense* An endemic Hound's-tongue Val Fondillo Echium vulgare Viper's-bugloss Near hotel Echium vulgare subsp. pustulatum a Viper's-bugloss Above Cocullo Solenanthus apenninus* Solenanthus La Difesa

Brassicaceae Cabbage Family Lunaria annuus Annual Honesty Gole di Sagittario Lunaria redivida Perennial Honesty Gole di Sagittario

Campanulaceae Bellflower Family Campanula fragilis subsp. cavolinii* An endemic bellflower Gole di Sagittario Campanula rapunculus Rampion Bellflower Val Fondillo Campanula scheuchzeri Scheuchzer's Bellflower (a Harebell) Val di Rose Campanula trachelium Nettle-leaved Bellflower La Difesa

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Cephalaria leucantha a Cream Scabious Gole di Sagittario Dipsacus fullonum Wild Teasel Val Fondillo Scabiosa columbaria Small Scabious Val Fondillo Scabiosa silenifolia Val di Rose

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-Summer Common Dianthus deltoides Maiden Pink La Cicerana Petrorhagia prolifera Tunic Flower La Cicerana Petrorhagia saxifraga a Tunic Flower Val Fondillo Silene dioica Red Campion La Difesa Silene italica Italian Catchfly La Difesa Silene latifolia White Campion Near hotel

Celastraceae Spindle Family Euonymus europaeus Spindle Tree Val Fondillo Euonymus latifolius Broad-leaved Spindle Gole di Sagittario

Cistaceae Rock-rose Family Helianthemum nummularium Rock-rose Val Fondillo

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Scientific name Common name Location

Helianthemum oelandicum subsp. alpestre Alpine Rock-rose Val di Rose

Compositae (Asteraceae) Daisy Family Adenostyles alpina Adenostyles Val di Rose (leaves) Artemisia alba Gole di Sagittario Bellis perennis Daisy Val Fondillo Carduus affinis Common Carduus defloratus subsp. carliniifolius - Val di Rose Carlina acanthifolia Acanthus-leaved Carline Thistle Near hotel (v. large flowers) Carlina acaulis subsp. simplex Stemmed' Stemless Carline Thistle Val Fondillo (large flowers) Carlina corymbosa a Carline Thistle Val Fondillo (small flowers) Centaurea jacea Brown Knapweed Val Fondillo Cichorium intybus Chicory Val Fondillo Cirsium tenoreanum a Woolly Thistle Val Fondillo Cota tinctoria subsp. australis Yellow Chamomile Val Fondillo Echinops sphaerocephala Great Globe Thistle Roadsides Eupatorium cannabinum Hemp Agrimony Val Fondillo Galinsoga quadriradiata Gallant Soldier La Difesa Helichrysum italicum A Curry Plant Above Cocullo Jacobaea samnitum* A large-flowered Ragwort Val Fondillo (over) Lactuca viminea subsp. chondrillifolia Gole di Sagittario Leucanthemum vulgare Ox-eye Daisy Val Fondillo Senecio squalidus Oxford Ragwort Val Fondillo Tripleurospermum inodorum Scentless Mayweed Val Fondillo

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family Convolvulus cantabrica Pink Bindweed Above Cocullo Cuscuta epithymum Common Dodder Val Fondillo

Cornaceae Dogwood Family Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Above Civitella Alfadena Cornus sanguinea Dogwood Val Fondillo

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family Sedum dasyphyllum Fat-leaved Stonecrop Near hotel Sedum hispanicum A Stonecrop La Difesa Sedum rupestre Rock Stonecrop La Difesa Sedum sexangulare Tasteless Stonecrop La Difesa Sempervivum arachnoideum Cobweb Houseleek Val di Rose Sempervivum tectorum Common Houseleek Above Cocullo

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia amygdaloides Wood Spurge La Difesa Euphorbia cyparissias Cypress Spurge Near hotel Euphorbia myrsinites Glaucous Spurge Val Fondillo Euphorbia spinosa Spiny Spurge Gole di Sagittario

Fagaceae Beech Family Fagus sylvatica Beech Widespread Quercus cerris Turkey Oak Val Fondillo

11 © Naturetrek September 16

Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Quercus pubescens Downy Oak Roadsides

Gentianaceae Gentian Family Gentiana cruciata Cross Gentian Val Fondillo Gentiana verna Spring Gentian Val di Rose Gentianella columnae An endemic 'Felwort' Val di Rose Gentianopsis ciliata Fringed Gentian Val Fondillo

Geraniaceae Crane’s-bill Family Geranium macrorrhizum Rock Crane's-bill Val di Rose (leaves) Geranium pyrenaicum Hedgerow Crane’s-bill Val Fondillo Geranium reflexum Reflexed Crane's-bill La Difesa (leaves) Geranium robertianum Herb Robert Val Fondillo

Grossulariaceae Gooseberry Family Ribes uva-crispa Gooseberry La Difesa

Hypericaceae St. John's-wort Family Hypericum perforatum Perforate St. John's-wort La Difesa

Lamiaceae Deadnettle Family Ballota nigra Black Horehound Val Fondillo Clinopodium (Acinos) alpinum Alpine Basil Thyme Val Fondillo Clinopodium nepeta subsp. glandulosum Lesser Calamint Gole di Sagittario Galeopsis ladanum subsp. angustifolium Red Hemp-nettle La Difesa Hyssopus officinalis Hyssop Above Cocullo Lamium maculatum Spotted Dead-nettle La Difesa Mentha aquatica Water Mint Val Fondillo Micromeria graeca subsp. tenuifolia Pink Micromeria Gole di Sagittario Origanum vulgare Oregano La Difesa Prunella laciniata Cut-leaved Self-heal Val Fondillo Prunella vulgaris Self-heal La Difesa Salvia glutinosa Jupiter's Distaff Val Fondillo Salvia verbenaca Wild Clary Val Fondillo Satureja montana Winter Savory Gole di Sagittario Sideritis italica A Sideritis Above Cocullo Stachys germanica Downy Woundwort Above Cocullo Thymus oenipontanus Wild Thyme Val Fondillo

Leguminosae (Fabaceae) Pea Family Astragalus sempervirens Mountain Tragacanth Val di Rose Colutea arborescens Bladder Senna Gole di Sagittario Coronilla vaginalis Small Scorpion-vetch Val di Rose Cytisus (Chamaecytisus) hirsutus Hairy Broom Val di Rose Cytisophyllum sessilifolium Sessile Broom Val Fondillo Laburnum anagyroides Laburnum Val Fondillo Lathyrus vernus Spring Pea La Difesa Lotus corniculatus Bird's-foot Trefoil Val Fondillo Melilotus albus White Melilot Roadsides Melilotus indicus Small Melilot Roadsides

12 © Naturetrek September 16

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Ononis spinosa Spiny Restharrow Val Fondillo Spartium junceum Spanish Broom Roadsides Trifolium pratense Red Clover Val Fondillo Trifolium repens White Clover Val Fondillo Vicia cracca Tufted Vetch Val Fondillo

Malvaceae Mallow Family Malva moschata Musk Mallow La Difesa Malva neglecta Least Mallow Val Fondillo

Oleaceae Olive Family Fraxinus excelsior Ash Val Fondillo Fraxinus ornus Manna or Flowering Ash Gole di Sagittario Ligustrum vulgare Privet Val Fondillo

Onagraceae Willowherb Family Epilobium dodonaei an Alpine Willowherb Roadside Cocullo to Ortona

Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family Euphrasia agg Eyebright Val Fondillo Odontites lutea Yellow Odontites Above Villetta Barrea Odontites vulgaris Red Bartsia Above Villetta Barrea Orobanche alba Thyme Broomrape Val Fondillo

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family Cymbalaria muralis Ivy-leaved Toadflax Val Fondillo Digitalis ferruginea Brown Foxglove Near hotel Linaria purpurea Purple Toadflax La Difesa Plantago lanceolata Ribwort Plantain Near hotel Plantago major Greater Plantain La Difesa

Plumbaginaceae Thrift Family Armeria canescens Plantain-leaved Thrift Val Fondillo Plumbago europaea Plumbago or Common Leadwort Gole di Sagittario

Polygalaceae Milkwort Family Polygala nicaeensis Nice Milkwort Val Fondillo

Primulaceae Primrose Family Anagallis arvensis Scarlet Pimpernel Val Fondillo Androsace villosa Ciliate Rock-jasmine Val di Rose (leaves) Cyclamen hederifolium Common Sowbread Gole di Sagittario Primula vulgaris Primrose Val Fondillo (in flower)

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Actea spicata Baneberry La Difesa Clematis vitalba Old Man's Beard Val Fondillo Consolida regalis Forking Larkspur Gole di Sagittario Helleborus foetidus Stinking Hellebore Val Fondillo Ranunculus lanuginosus Woolly Buttercup La Difesa

13 © Naturetrek September 16

Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Thalictrum aquilegifolium Great Meadow-rue Val Fondillo Thalictrum simplex A Meadow-rue Val Fondillo

Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family Rhamnus alpinus Alpine Buckthorn Mountain slopes Rhamnus cathartica Buckthorn Val Fondillo Rhamnus fallax an Alpine Buckthorn La Difesa Rhamnus saxatilis Rock Buckthorn Above Cocullo

Rosaceae Rose Family Cotoneaster nebrodensis A large-leaved Cotoneaster Val Fondillo Crataegus laevigata Midland Hawthorn La Cicerana Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn Val Fondillo Dryas octopetala Mountain Avens Val di Rose (leaves) Fragaria vesca Wild Strawberry La Difesa Malus sylvestris Crab Apple Near hotel Potentilla detommasii A Sulphur Cinquefoil La Cicerana Potentilla reptans Creeping Cinquefoil La Difesa Prunus spinosa Blackthorn Near hotel Pyrus communis subsp. pyraster Wild Pear Val Fondillo Rosa canina agg. Dog Rose Near hotel Rubus fruticosa agg. Bramble Val Fondillo Rubus idaeus Raspberry Val Fondillo Sanguisorba minor Salad Burnet Near hotel

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family aristata Southern Squinancywort Gole di Sagittario Cruciata laevipes Crosswort La Difesa odoratum Woodruff La Difesa

Salicaceae Willow Family Salix alba White Willow Streams Salix apennina Apennine Willow Streams Salix purpurea Purple Willow Val Fondillo Salix viminalis Basket Willow Val Fondillo

Santalaceae Sandelwood Family Viscum album Mistletoe Val Fondillo

Sapindaceae Maple Family Acer campestre Field Maple Val Fondillo Acer monspessulanum Montpelier Maple Gole di Sagittario Acer opalus subsp. obtusatum Italian Maple Val Fondillo Acer pseudoplatanus Sycamore Val Fondillo

Saxifragaceae Saxifrage Family Saxifraga callosa Thick-leaved Saxifrage Gole di Sagittario (leaves) Saxifraga paniculata Live-long Saxifrage Val di Rose (leaves) Saxifraga porophylla* Reddish Saxifrage Val di Rose (leaves) Saxifraga rotundifolia Round-leaved Saxifrage La Difesa (leaves)

14 © Naturetrek September 16

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Scrophularia canina Dog (French) Figwort Near hotel Scrophularia scopolii Italian Figwort Val Fondillo Verbascum mallophorum a large branched Mullein Val Fondillo

Thymelaeaceae Daphne Family Daphne laureola Spurge Laurel Gole di Sagittario Daphne mezereum Mezereon La Difesa

Urticaceae Nettle Family Urtica dioica Nettle Near hotel

Violaceae Violet Family Viola alba subsp. dehnhardtii A Violet (mauve) Val di Rose (in flower)

Monocots Monocotyledons Amaryllidaceae Daffodil Family Sternbergia lutea Sternbergia Gole di Sagittario

Asparagaceae Asparagus Family Asparagus acutifolius Prickly Asparagus Gole di Sagittario Polygonatum multiflorum Solomon’s Seal La Difesa Ruscus aculeatus Butcher's Broom Gole di Sagittario

Colchicaceae Autumn Crocus Family Colchicum lusitanum An Autumn Crocus Val Fondillo Colchicum neapolitanum An Autumn Crocus La Cicerana

Melanthiaceae Herb Paris Family Paris quadrifolia Herb Paris La Difesa

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Epipactis helleborine Broad-leaved Helleborine La Difesa Neottia nidus-avis Bird's-nest Orchid La Difesa

FUNGI Lecanoromycetes Lichens Lobaria pulmonaria Lungwort La Difesa Agaricomycetes Coprinus comatus Shaggy Ink Cap Fomes fomentarius Hoof Fungus La Difesa

Birds (=tick – recorded but not counted; H = heard; S= signs; T= tadpoles; D = dead; LO = leader only) September Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 1 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos     2 Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus   3 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis   4 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 1      5 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1

15 © Naturetrek September 16

Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 6 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 3 1 1   7 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1 8 Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis 1    9 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 2 1 10 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo       11 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra     12 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis  13 Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia        14 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus     15 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto   16 Tawny Owl Strix aluco H 17 European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus 2 2 18 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba 1 19 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster c45 20 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major H 21 European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis H H  H H H 22 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus       23 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio        24 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius H     25 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica        26 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax   27 Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus         28 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix        29 Northern Raven Corvus corax   H   30 Coal Tit Periparus ater         31 Marsh Tit Poecile palustris         32 Willow Tit Poecile montanus      33 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus         34 Great Tit Parus major         35 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica        36 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris         37 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum        38 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus         39 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita    H H    40 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla  H H      41 Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus  H  H     42 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes  H  H    43 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea  H  H H H   44 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris      45 Common Blackbird Turdus merula        46 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus         47 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata         48 European Robin Erithacus rubecula        49 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros         50 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus         51 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 1 52 European Stonechat Saxicola torquata         53 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oeneanthe        

16 © Naturetrek September 16

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 54 Italian Sparrow Passer italiae        55 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava agg.    56 White Wagtail Montacilla alba     57 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs        58 Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula H    59 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina   60 Red Crossbill Loxia curvirosta 2 3 3      61 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis         62 European Serin Serinus serinus       63 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia LO 64 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus      Mammals 1 Mole Talpa sp. S S S S S S 2 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes 2 2 1 1 3 Grey Wolf Canis lupus S S 4 Marsican Brown Bear Ursus arctos marsicanus 1 S S 5 Beech Marten Martes foina S 6 Badger Meles meles S 7 Red Deer Cervus elaphus       8 Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus     9 Apennine or Abruzzo Chamois Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata c25 10 Wild Boar Sus scrofa S 1 3 2 11 Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris S 2 2 2 1 1 1 12 Bat cf Noctule cf. Nyctalus noctula  

Reptiles & Amphibians 1 Common Toad Bufo bufo T D 2 Common Wall Lizard Podarcis muralis       Fish 1 Brown Trout Salmo trutta   Butterflies 1 Apollo Parnassius apollo         2 Large White Pieris brassicae         3 Small White Pieris rapae         4 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea         5 Wood White Leptidea sinapis         6 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas         7 Scarce Copper Lycaena virgaureae         8 Long-tailed Blue Lampides boeticus         9 Lang's Short-tailed Blue Leptotes pirithous         10 Little Blue Cupido minimus         11 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus         12 Brown Argus Aricia agestis         13 Chalk-hill Blue Polyommatus coridon        

17 © Naturetrek September 16

Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 14 Adonis Blue Polyommatus bellargus         15 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus         16 Southern White Admiral Limenitis reducta         17 Peacock Butterfly Aglais io         18 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta         19 Cardinal Fritillary Argynnis pandora         20 Silver-washed Fritillary Argynnis paphia         21 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia         22 Spotted Fritillary Melitaea didyma         23 Woodland Grayling Hipparchia fagi         24 Great Banded Grayling Brintesia circe         25 Autumn Ringlet Erebia neoridas         26 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina         27 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus         28 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria tircis         29 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera         30 Large Wall Brown Lasiommata maera         31 Southern Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus malvoides         32 Dingy Skipper Erynnis tages         33 Silver-spotted Skipper Hesperia comma         Micros Moths 1 Spotted White Plume galactodactyla                2 Crambid Eudonia lineola         3 Crambid Eudonia mercurella         4 Crambid Agriphila tristella         5 Crambid Pyrausta purpuralis         6 Rusty-dot Pearl Udea ferrugalis         7 Crambid Palpeta vitrealis         Macros Moths 1 Orange Swift Hepialus sylvia             2 Fox Moth - caterpillar Macrothylacia rubi         3 Mullein Wave Scopula marginepunctata         4 Vestal Rhodometra sacraria         5 Red Twin-spot Carpet Xanthorhoe spadicearia         6 Garden Carpet Xanthorhoe fluctuata         7 Chalk Carpet Scotopteryx bipunctata         8 Galium Carpet Epirrhoe galiata         9 Purple Bar Cosmorhoe ocellata         10 Ash-banded Carpet tophaceata         11 Geometrid Mesotype parallelolineata         12 Treble-bar Aplocera plagiata         13 Brimstone Moth Opisthograptis luteolata         14 Irish Annulet Odontognophos dumetata         15 Humming-bird Hawk-moth Macroglossum stellatarum         16 Scarce Footman Eilema complana         17 Common Footman Eilema lurideola        

18 © Naturetrek September 16

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 18 Four-spotted Footman Lithosia quadra         19 Jersey Tiger Euplagia quadripunctata         20 Light Feathered Rustic Agrotis cinerea         21 Heart and Club Agrotis clavis         22 Double Square-spot Xestia triangulum         23 Square-spot Rustic Xestia xanthographa         24 Feathered Gothic Tholera decimalis         25 Hebrew Character Orthosia gothica         26 Noctuid Episema glaucina         27 Straw Underwing Thalpophila matura         28 Nut-tree Tussock - caterpillar Colocasia coryli         29 Burnished Brass Diachrysia chrysitis         30 Silver Y Autographa gamma         31 Spectacle Abrostola tripartita         32 Red Underwing Catocala nupta         33 Alchymist Catephia alchymista         34 Herald Scoliopteryx libatrix         Other Invertebrates 1 a Hawker Aeshna sp.           2 Blue-winged Grasshopper Oedipoda caerulescens         3 Red-winged Grasshopper Oedipoda cf. germanica         4 Oak Bush-cricket Meconeme thalassinum         5 Roesel's Bush-cricket Metrioptera roeselii         6 True Cricket (Wood Cricket type) Gryllidae sp.         7 Forest Bug Pentatoma rufipes         8 Red & black Ground Bug Lygaeus saxatilis         9 Common Crane-fly Tipula oleracea         10 Marmalade Hoverfly Episyrphus balteatus         11 Hornet Hoverfly Volucella zonaria         12 Ichneumon Wasp Netelia testacea         13 Ruby-tailed Wasp Chrysididae sp.         14 Wood Ant Formica rufa         15 European Beewolf (Bee-killer Wasp) Philanthus triangulum         16 Digger Wasp Sceliphron curvatum         17 Common Wasp Vespula vulgaris         18 European Paper Wasp Polistes gallicus         19 Violet Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea         20 Honey Bee Apis melifera         21 White-tailed Bumblebee Bombus lucorum         22 Buff-tailed Bumblebee Bombus terestris         23 Red-tailed Bumblebee Bombus lapidarius         24 Common Carder Bee Bombus pascuorum         25 Sexton Beetle Nicrophorus sp.         26 Green Tiger Beetle Cicindela campestris         27 7-Spot Ladybird Coccinella 7-punctata         28 Bloody-nosed Beetle Timacrcha tenebricosa         29 Blue Leaf Beetle Chrysomelidae sp        

19 © Naturetrek September 16

Abruzzo in Autumn Tour Report

September Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Other Taxa 1 Wasp Spider Argiope bruennichi              2 A Harvestman (commonest sp.) Phalangium opilio         3 A Harvestman (dorsal white line) Metaphalangium cirtanum         4 Millipede cf Tachypodoiulus niger         5 Large orange Slug cf. Spanish Arion cf vulgaris        

Common Wall Lizard by Alan Smith Sternbergia by Paul Harmes

20 © Naturetrek September 16