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Legends of Southern France Wine Tasting

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Legends of Southern France Wine Tasting ROBERSON WINE PRESENTS: LEGENDS OF SOUTHERN FRANCE THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 24th 2009 WAW Page 53 Map 10 France Regional CORSE 7 Ajaccio N International boundary Département boundary Chief town of département VDQS Centre of VDQS AC not mapped elsewhere Centre of AC area Champagne (pp.78–81) Loire Valley (pp.118–25) Burgundy (pp.54–77) Jura and Savoie (pp.150–51) Rhône (pp.130–39) Southwest (pp.112–14) Dordogne (p.115) LEGENDS OF Bordeaux (pp.82–111) SOUTHERN Languedoc-Roussillon (pp.140–45) FRANCE Provence (pp.146–48) THE REGION Alsace (pp.126–29) Corsica (p.149) Other traditional vine-growing areas Proportional symbols Area of vineyard per département in thousands of hectares (no figure given if area <1000 hectares) For many years the southern regions of Provence, Languedoc and the Roussillon were home to a great deal of France’s ‘wine lake’, making wine that nobody wanted to drink, let alone part with their hard earned1:3,625,000 francs for. The last decadeKm 0 has seen50 all of that100 change, and150 Km what was once the land of plonk is now one of the mostMiles 0 exciting regions50 in the world of wine,100 Miles with innovative vignerons producing both artisanal limited production cuvées and branded wines of vastly improved quality. The array of styles from this fascinating region offers wonderful diversity for the enthusi- ast - from dry and mineral white wines through crisp rosés to deep, structured red wines and on to unctuous sweet and fortified wines. As Mediterrainian France continues to be discovered in terms of where the best terroir is located and which varieties are best suited to the various sub-regions, many areas that were previously considered good only for mass produced wine are being re-discovered. Perhaps the best example of this is an area called Terrases du Larzac which is approx 30 mins drive to the north-west of Montpellier. For many years the vines in and around the villages of Jonquieres, Montpeyroux and St Saturnin were cropped very high and sold off in bulk, but winemakers like Olivier Jullien (not to mention the great Daumas Gassac down the road in Aniane) have been instrumental in taking quality sky high. This prime land is starting to rise in value and the burgeoning number of top-drawer estates from the area is testament to what Andrew Jefford calls the “great- est vineyard land in the south of France”. The region now has its own appellation and with producers like La Peira springing up every other vintage, it is definately a case of ‘watch this space’. LEGENDS OF SOUTHERN FRANCE THE DOMAINES ROUSSILLON CLOT DE L’OUM DOMAINE GAUBY This 18ha estate is run by Eric Monné, who has owned the vari- Since starting in 1985, Domaine Gauby has expanded from the ous parcels of land (33 in total) since the mid ‘90s although he original 5ha to over 40ha. This, not to mention the acclaim and bottled his first vintage under the Clot de l’Oum label in 2001. success that the estate has attracted, is thanks to the drive and The delay in getting started may have had something to do with ambition of Gerard Gauby. the fact that he spends his weeks working at the EU patent of- Gerard Gauby is heralded as the ‘King of Roussillon’ and it is fice in the Hague! hard to argue with the idea that he has been an inspiration to Nevertheless, along with his wife Leia, Eric has quickly gained an entire generation of winemakers in this rocky south-west an enviable reputation for the spectacular wines being pro- corner of France. Never one to rest on his considerable laurels, duced from vines in the highly rated communes of Caramany in recent years the critics have become even more effusive in and Maury. their praise. Gerard has striven to make his wines more elegant The Clot de l’Oum estate is planted to Syrah, Grenache (Gris and has lowered alcohol levels across his range. and Noir) and Carignan. Blessed with old vines and wonderful In addition to leading the way in terms of quality wines in the terroir, the wines are some of the most intense you are likely Roussillon, Gauby is also one of the leading practicioners of to find, with wonderful precision and minerality on the palate. biodynamics. It is a mammoth task applying these ideals to the 150(!) or so parcels of land that he owns, but the results are Tonight we will be tasting their top cuvée, ‘Numero Uno’, from some of the most expressive and terroir driven wines in the the 2006 vintage. It is a blend of 80% Syrah / 20% Carignan world. aged for around 16 months in new oak, before being bottled unfiltered. Tonight we will be tasting Gerard’s flagship wine ‘Muntada’ from 2003, made predominently from Carignan and Grenache (40/30) with the balance from Mourvedre and Syrah. LEGENDS OF SOUTHERN FRANCE THE DOMAINES WAW Page 146-7 Map 54 Provence Sisteron Villars- sur-Var Var N202 Sigale Roquestéron Briançonnet Esteron Bonson Esteron N202 ALPES la Roquette- Thorenc sur-Var Gréolières Tourrette- up Courségoules Sisteron Lo Levens le Logis- Carros 854 du-Pin Mérindol Sisteron San Remo DOMAINE DE TREVALLON V Trigance y Lauris Aiguines e b N85 A51 r tu MARITIMES St-Roman-de-Bellet do Ar la Trinité Cadenet n Escragnolles la Bastide The Durrbach family had bought the Trevallon estate back in the la Tour Gourdon Vence Monte- Ve Lac du Eze d‘Aigues Mirabeau Vinon- rd V A8 Carlo o a n Ste-Croix A Comps- sur-Verdon St-Paul r ‘60s as a holiday retreat, but it wasn’t until Eloi (the son) planted the rt le Bar- Villefranche- Cazan St-Julien ub sur-Artuby St-Vallier- ce y Mons sur-Loup Cagnes- sur-Mer Pertuis n de-Thiey Nice first vines in 1973 that Domaine de Trevallon was born, with the first N7 ra St-Paul- sur-Mer Du lès-Durance St-Laurent- Grasse Villeneuve- commercial vintage being released in 1977. A51 Peyrolles- Loubet N98 du-Var N96 Seillans en-Provence Montmeyan Valbonne St-Canadet la Verdière Aups Mouans- Originally, the (north-facing) vineyards were planted to Grenache, Meyrargues Fayence Sartoux B Siagne St-Cannat Rians re N85 Mougins Venelles sq Châteaudouble N7 Syrah and Mourvedre but after a few years of struggling to ripen his Esparron ue Callas Pégomas Lignane N96 Tavernes Villecroze St-Paul- Lac de Antibes les Annelles A8 le Cannet N St-Cassien grapes properly, Eloi decided to plant Cabernet Sauvignon. Today it Eguilles Vauvenargues les Quatre en-Forêt Barjols a Figanières Mandelieu- Juan- A8 r Chemins N7 Salernes t is the blend of Cabernet and Syrah (50/50) that makes the estate’s Aix-en- ta gne u Draguignan re la-Napoule les-Pins Mon b nd Provence oi re y E Bagnols- n -Vict a Cannes Ste Brue-Auriac Flayosc en-Forêt r red wine, with a white wine also being made from Marsanne and Puyloubier Cotignac y N7 la Napoule le Tholonet Entrecasteaux e Pourrières R Île Ste-Marguerite Châteauneuf- Théoule- Palette Trans-en-Provence 618 Rousanne. Rognac le-Rouge Arc Châteauvert el sur-Mer Ollières Montfort- Lorgues la Motte ter A51 Meyreuil Rousset N7 Correns sur-Argens ‘Es Bras e l Miramar Eloi’s father René was a renowned artist in his day (and a close A8 Arge s Puget- d Vitrolles n sif Gardanne Pourcieux St-Maximin- Carcès VAR les Arcs N7 sur-Argens as Peynier A8 le Muy M le Trayas Cabriès la-Ste-Baume y Taradeau A N98 friend of Delauney and Picasso among others) and as he grew old Bouc- am le Thoronet r N96 A52 Trets ar ge les-Pennes- Bel-Air le Val C Vidauban Fréjus Cabasse Roquebrune- ns Eloi decided to use the Trevallon label as a lasting memorial to his A7 Mirabeau sur-Argens Agay Touvres A8 St- Septèmes- Mimet dad. Before René died in 2000, Eloi gave him 50 posters on which e Raphaël les-Vallons St-Zacharie Brignoles N7 ill N560 Rougiers la Celle le Cannet- A s le Rove Auriol le St-Aygulf Département boundary heused only crayons and his inspiration to design what have be- A55 Flassans- Luc des-Maures Besse- e sur-Issole r Bandol come some of the most iconic label images in the world. Roquevaire ume la Roquebrussanne sur-Issole la Basse les Issambres Ste-Ba Forcalqueiret Verrerie Plan-de-la-Tour u Rade de Allauch de la a Val d’Esquières Les Baux-de-Provence ssif Issole Marseille Ma Gonfaron la Nartelle Pignans N97 la Garde- M Marseille Aubagne Gémenos Néoules Carnoules les Mayons Freinet Bellet Tonight we will be tasting the 2000 Domaine de Trevallon, aged for 2 A50 Cuges- Signes A57 Ste-Maxime Puget-Ville s years in new oak barrels. la Penne- N8 les-Pins e Grimaud Beauvallon Cassis sur-Huveaune Roquefort- le Camp Méounes- Capelude d Roquefort lès-Montrieux Cogolin St-Tropez Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence la-Bédoule N8 Belgentier Cuers Collobrières G f Gassin Coteaux Varois Cassis a N97 i Ceyreste p Pierrefeu- s e s la Cadière le Castellet a du-Var a u les Campaux la Croix- Côtes du Luberon “My wines have a lot of personality because I have a lot of personality” A50 d’Azur M Ramatuelle le Beausset la Môle Valmer says Robert Creus, the owner and winemaker at Terre Inconnue in Solliès- Camp-Long Valcros N98 Môle Côtes de Provence St-Cyr- Ste-Anne d’Evenos Pont la Ciotat Bormes- Cavalaire- St Series, which is half way between Montpellier and Marseille.
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