In Search of the Perfect Carne Asada: Visiting Valley Carnicerias
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IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT CARNE ASADA: VISITING VALLEY CARNICERIAS STORY BY MARILYN NOBLE • PHOTOS BY BRIAN GODDARD t was a warm Saturday afternoon when we pulled into the occasional pair of dancing shoes. Part bodega, part taco stand, parking lot of a strip mall near the border between they’re centers of commerce and social life, places to connect IPhoenix and Tempe. The scent of meat roasting over with the familiar flavors of home for people who now live on mesquite perfumed the air, and Mexican pop music blared the north side of the border. But they’re also convenient places from a speaker above the sidewalk where a mini flea market to shop for anyone who appreciates authentic products and sported a table full of yoyos, bracelets, keychains, toys and meat at a reasonable price. religious figurines. The place was Carniceria Los Amigos, one Inside Los Amigos, a hungry mob crowded the small take- of the many Mexican meat markets dotting the Valley. out counter, even though the lunch rush should have been Carnicerias (butcher shops) are all about meat, but they’re over. I asked one of the other customers what we should try, also a treasure trove of Mexican specialties. You can buy plenty and he said, without hesitation, “Oh, get the Number One. of Mexican cuts of beef and pork, to be sure, but most Their carne asada is the best, and it comes with rice and beans carnicerias are filled to bursting with Mexican beers, sodas, and salsa. And tortillas. You can’t beat it for 24 bucks” for a cheeses, produce, hot sauces, pan dulce and tortillas, along family-size order. After meandering around the store for a little with piñatas, Pepto Bismol, Advil, paper goods and even an while to check out the other offerings, I picked up a few A butcher at Carniceria Sonora in Tempe prepares a tray of milanesa (beef Manager Daniel Paz of Carniceria Sonora dishes up barbacoa for hungry cutlets) for the meat case. customers. 14 Winter 2019 Edible Phoenix www.ediblephoenix.com Mexican limes, an avocado and the suggested combination, people enjoying their tacos and tortas. The store also has a hefty three pounds of meat. It was enough for two of us to a good selection of imported Mexican specialties, including enjoy dinner one night and lunch for the next two days. The dried chiltepins from Sonora, as well as tortillas, cheeses carne asada was thin, tender and perfectly spiced; the and pupusas. tortillas reminded me of the ones we bought at the tortilleria Up the street from Los Amigos, at Carniceria Sonora, the when I was growing up on the border; and the chiltepin salsa tortilla machine was running full speed. Soft, tender, fragrant had plenty of fire and flavor to match. corn tortillas dropped from the conveyor belt to be promptly On the next visit, Art, an employee who didn’t give me packaged. Unlike mass-produced tortillas made from Maseca, his last name, escorted us into the kitchen where a giant vat a brand of dried corn flour, those at Sonora are made from of barbacoa bubbled in one corner and Maria Magdalena nixtamal, corn kernels boiled and soaked in slaked lime, then assembled and cooked pupusas, a Central American specialty drained and ground into masa. They’re dangerously tasty. In made of masa stuffed with meat or vegetables and then fact, it was hard to resist opening the bag in the car and smashed flat and cooked on the griddle. The centerpiece of snacking on the way home. the place, as in all carnicerias, was the meat counter. Trays The manager, Daniel Paz, dished up some barbacoa tacos of camarones (shrimp), pescado (fish), pollo (chicken), puerco as he told us the beef in the store is all Certified Angus and cut (pork) and carne de res (beef ) were lined up with flats of chorizo, longaniza and spiced carne asada and al pastor, ready to take home and cook. Art said the shrimp comes Mexican Meat Terms from Mexico, and the meat is from the U.S., but cut in the store. Juan Lopez owns Los Amigos and recently opened another carniceria in Guadalupe called Amigos. When we stopped by, the tables on the patio out front were filled with The meat case at Amigos Carniceria in Guadalupe. Aracherra—Skirt steak or hanger steak for fajitas Carne molida de res—ground beef Carne molida de puerco—ground pork Con hueso—bone-in Costillas—ribs (pork or beef) Diezmillo—chuck steak or roast Milanesa—beef cutlet, pounded thin Paleta de res—beef shoulder (chuck) Palomilla—round steak or top sirloin, good for asada Patas—feet, either beef (for menudo) or pork Pechugas—chicken breasts Picada de res—chopped beef Pulpa—boneless round steak Ranchera—flap steak, good for asada Trozos or trocitos—cubes of beef or pork, stew meat Sin hueso—boneless Maria Magdalena prepares pupusas, one of the specialities at Carniceria Los Amigos in Tempe. www.ediblephoenix.com Edible Phoenix Winter 2019 15 on the spot. Sonora also has a raspado (shaved ice) bar so you can quench your thirst on a hot summer day—or tame the heat from the fiery salsa. In addition to fresh meat and seafood, Sonora offers prepared takeout food like menudo and carnitas, as well as meat marinated and ready to grill. There are also plenty of packaged foods from Mexico: coyotas (a cookie), Jumex juices and Mexican Coca-Cola. At Carniceria del Pacifico near 36th and Thomas in Phoenix, butcher Damian Blancas showed us how he makes chicharrones, deep-fried pork skin. After trimming away the fat and drying the skins on a rack, he plunges them into a vat of hot oil, where they puff, curl and turn golden brown. After a sprinkle of salt, he places them in the case on the counter where they’re ready for customers to turn them into tacos or crunchy snacks. Del Pacifico sells a full line of meats and seafood, as well as prepared takeout. If you don’t want to cook their pollo asado (grilled chicken) at home, they have a grill out front where they’ll do it for you. They carry plenty of Mexican candies, Butcher Damian Blancas shows off a fresh chicharron, deep fried pork skin, sweets and groceries, also. at Carniceria del Pacifico in Phoenix. Shopping at a carniceria can be an adventure in learning new food terms and making new friends. Speaking a little “The best” corn tortillas at Carniceria del Pacifico. Pollo asado on the grill at Carniceria del Pacifico. 16 Winter 2019 Edible Phoenix www.ediblephoenix.com Spanish helps, but isn’t necessary. What is helpful is knowing what the various meat cuts are in Spanish. You probably won’t find too many pot roasts or porterhouses, but you will find lots of flat, thin cuts suitable for marinating, grilling and braising, along with spices, chiles, tortillas and other staples of Mexican cooking. If you’re planning a dinner party featuring Mexican cuisine, make a trip to your local carniceria. You’ll find everything you need for an authentic, enjoyable dinner; and pick up some lunch to go while you’re there. Marilyn Noble is the author of four Southwestern cookbooks and has written hundreds of articles on everything from aviation to agriculture and food. She also A wide variety of hot sauces line the shelves at Amigos Carniceria. does communications work for nonprofits in the sustain- able food and agriculture sectors. She was born in the Valley Carnicerias desert Southwest and now lives in Tempe, where she serves There are dozens of carnicerias around the metro area. as the co-chair of the Slow Food Southwest/Mountain Ark These are a few of our favorites. of Taste Committee and as Slow Food’s Arizona Governor. Sonora, 3135 S. 48th St., Tempe (Also 17 W. Baseline Rd., Phoenix, and 8267 W. Washington St., Peoria) Los Amigos, 4705 E. Southern Ave., Phoenix Amigos , 9210 S. Avenida del Yaqui, Guadalupe Del Pacifico, 2911 N. 36th St., Phoenix Sepulveda, 1612 W. Bell Rd., Phoenix Los Reyes, 1603 N. 16th St., Phoenix La Hereford, 8932 N. 7th St., Phoenix Castillo, 4426 S. Central Ave., Phoenix Don Filos, 1533 E. Apache Blvd., Tempe El Rancho, 303 E. Southern Ave., Mesa Herradero, 492 W. Ray Rd., Chandler Robles, 4360 W. Olive Ave., Glendale Barbacoa tacos make a tasty and filling lunch at Carniceria Sonora in Tempe. The chiltepin hot sauce and pico de gallo are made fresh in-house. www.ediblephoenix.com Edible Phoenix Winter 2019 17 Carne Asada Sandwiches Carne asada means “grilled meat,” and in Northern Mexico and the American Southwest it’s a staple party food usually incorporated into tacos or burritos with plenty of pico de gallo. However, it also makes an amazing sandwich with the addition of roasted peppers and avocado. Marinade: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lime juice ½ teaspoon chile powder ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 clove garlic, roughly chopped ½ pound sirloin steak or ranchera Spread: 2 tablespoons mayonnaise Zest of 1 lime 2–3 drops hot sauce Sandwiches: 2 thick slices red onion 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large red bell pepper 1 poblano chile Salt and pepper 2 ciabatta rolls, split 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced Whisk together the olive oil, lime juice, chile powder, black pepper and garlic in a small bowl. Place the steak in a glass dish and pour the marinade over. Refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours. Mix the mayonnaise, lime zest and hot sauce for the sandwich spread.