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A Multi-Sited Ethnography of Meat Consumption Routines in Urban Australia and Indonesia

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A Multi-Sited Ethnography of Meat Consumption Routines in Urban Australia and Indonesia Interconnected practices and household improvisation: a multi-sited ethnography of meat consumption routines in urban Australia and Indonesia Kipley Laura Nink MAAPD, BA/BAsian Studies (Hons) A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at The University of Queensland in 2020 School of Social Science Abstract This ethnographic study of meat as part of humble daily practices contributes new insights to the existing anthropology of meat eating and its implications. Drawing on the emerging field of design anthropology, the thesis is inspired by Marcus’s exhortation to ‘follow the thing’ (meat) in household shopping, food handling, preparation and consumption practices across national borders. The thesis addresses the following research questions: What are the interconnected rituals and routines in everyday household meat consumption practices in middle-income households in Australia and Indonesia? How do these practices relate to, and negotiate, local histories and regional–global networks? What can design anthropology methods offer in understanding everyday foodways? What insights can a comparison of these practices provide in relation to the circulation of meat? I focus on 18 households in urban Australia and Indonesia because, while culturally distinct, they are connected through a transnational and global meat trade. Drawing on the concepts of improvisation, habitus, intersecting technologies and friction, I find everyday household foodway practices to be shaped by individual habitus as well as knowledge of frictions in the ways that meat is produced and circulated. I consider Indonesian meat purchasing and handling practices to argue that it is for structural, not cultural, reasons that Indonesia is a ‘wet’ (fresh) meat market. By following meat in everyday usage and routines the thesis reveals unexpected connections and disconnections. I conclude that the increased technical capacity to produce and circulate meat globally needs to sit alongside understandings of local practices and regional networks. Making temporal and spatial links across regions and technical–social worlds, focused on the subject matter of meat, is part of the original contribution of this thesis. Declaration by author This thesis is composed of my original work, and contains no material previously published or written by another person except where due reference has been made in the text. I have clearly stated the contribution by others to jointly authored works that I have included in my thesis. 2 I have clearly stated the contribution of others to my thesis as a whole, including statistical assistance, survey design, data analysis, significant technical procedures, professional editorial advice, financial support and any other original research work used or reported in my thesis. The content of my thesis is the result of work I have carried out since the commencement of my higher degree by research candidature and does not include a substantial part of work that has been submitted to qualify for the award of any other degree or diploma in any university or other tertiary institution. I have clearly stated which parts of my thesis, if any, have been submitted to qualify for another award. I acknowledge that an electronic copy of my thesis must be lodged with the University Library and, subject to the policy and procedures of The University of Queensland, the thesis be made available for research and study in accordance with the Copyright Act 1968 unless a period of embargo has been approved by the Dean of the Graduate School. I acknowledge that copyright of all material contained in my thesis resides with the copyright holder(s) of that material. Where appropriate I have obtained copyright permission from the copyright holder to reproduce material in this thesis and have sought permission from co- authors for any jointly authored works included in the thesis. 3 Publications included in this thesis No publications included. Submitted manuscripts included in this thesis No manuscripts submitted for publication. Other publications during candidature No other publications. Contributions by others to the thesis No contributions by others. Statement of parts of the thesis submitted to qualify for the award of another degree No works submitted towards another degree have been included in this thesis. Research Involving Human or Animal Subjects This research was approved on 12 July 2017 by the University of Queensland Human Research Ethics Committee B, approval number 2017000616 (Appendix I). No animal subjects were involved in this research. 4 Acknowledgements Thank you to Dr Jenny Munro, Dr Lee Wilson, Dr Carla Meurk and Professor David Trigger who supervised my thesis at various times. Your academic workload is immense and the time gifted by you reading, reviewing and discussing my ideas is greatly valued. I am particularly thankful to Jenny and Lee, who guided me through the final stages of the thesis. My thinking and writing benefited enormously from the constructive feedback you provided on multiple drafts. I am also indebted to you for your words of encouragement. I am very grateful to the various people in the meat industry I met who tolerated all my questioning. The study was supported by a postgraduate scholarship from Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) for which I am grateful, and the staff of MLA also assisted in opening doors to places which would have otherwise been inaccessible. The generous funding enabled my fieldwork and allowed me to design the study using video methods. My research was also supported by funding through an Australian Government Postgraduate Award. I am grateful to other students I met during the study. Their help included suggestions that led to unearthing literature that can be difficult to find given the interdisciplinary nature of social science approaches to food studies. As a remotely based student, such support was especially important. To Pak Dedi Adhuri from Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan Indonesia (the Indonesian Institute of Sciences) thank you for being my sponsor during my Indonesian fieldwork. I also owe thanks to Lee for linking me to Pak Dedi. I had tried for many months to find a sponsor so it was a huge relief to be able to progress the study knowing that fieldwork in Indonesia would be possible. To Ms Ranti Utari, thank you for convincing people to let me into their homes in Indonesia. Your help with translations and fieldwork, and generally being an excellent friend to debrief with about the study, is greatly appreciated. To Jet (Missy) and Arlo (Marlon), thank you for being you. I didn’t quite finish as soon as you would have liked but I did eventually, as promised. To my baby Django, your loss was so raw when I started this study. You are forever loved and missed. Most importantly, I would like to express my sincere thanks and gratitude to the research participants in this study. Without you there would be no study. 5 Financial support This research was supported by an Australian Government Research Training Program Scholarship. This research was supported by a postgraduate scholarship from Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA). Keywords cultural anthropology, meat consumption, video ethnography, friction, household routines, improvisation Australian and New Zealand Standard Research Classifications (ANZSRC) ANZSRC code: 160104, Social and Cultural Anthropology, 100% Fields of Research (FoR) Classification FoR code: 1601, Anthropology, 100% 6 Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................................. 2 Declaration by author ........................................................................................................................ 2 Financial support ............................................................................................................................... 6 Table of Contents .............................................................................................................................. 7 List of Figures ................................................................................................................................... 10 List of Abbreviations ........................................................................................................................ 11 Chapter 1. Introduction: An ethnography of meat-as-food ........................................................... 12 1.1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................. 12 1.2. Questions .................................................................................................................................. 13 1.3. Personal interest in the topic .................................................................................................... 14 1.4. Methods ................................................................................................................................... 16 1.5. Household foodways and kitchens ........................................................................................... 19 1.6. Theoretical framework ............................................................................................................. 21 1.7. Assumptions ............................................................................................................................. 26 1.8. Consumption and consumer society ........................................................................................
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