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2019. 10. 2 Wed. — 12. 16 Mon. The National Art Center, Tokyo Organized by: The National Art Center, Tokyo ; Nikkei Inc. With the special cooperation of: Cartier With the support of: Embassy of France / Institut français du Japon With the sponsorship of: TAISEI CORPORATION ; YAMAGEN CO.,LTD With the cooperation of: Kawashima Selkon Textiles Co., Ltd. ; Utsunomiya City / Oya Stone Material Cooperative Union ; Geo Nexus Co., Ltd. ; SALIOT ; THE EUGENE Studio Exhibition Design: New Material Research Laboratory • Information in the list of works is arranged in the following order: List of Exhibits catalog number of each piece, title, year of production, material, and collection. • Unless otherwise indicated, pieces belong to the Cartier Collection. • The order of display may differ from that found in the exhibition catalog. • There may be changes to pieces exhibited. ■ Introduction 0-005 0-010 Mystery clock with single axle Screen mystery clock 0-000 Cartier Paris Cartier New York Hiroshi Sugimoto 1922 1926 Time Reversed Platinum, yellow gold, rock crystal, onyx, Platinum, yellow gold, crystal, onyx, 2018 turquoise-blue enamel, black enamel, moonstones, white enamel, black enamel, Mixed media (Restored antique clock from diamonds diamonds 1908 altered to turn counterclockwise by the artist [Manufactured by Fontana Cesare, 0-006 0-011 Milan]) Mystery clock with single axle Pocket watch with stand Private collection Cartier Paris Cartier 1956 2016 Yellow gold, platinum, smoky quartz, White gold, steel, sapphire, black diamonds translucent enamel (pocket watch) Prologue: Mysterious double tourbillon complication ■ Space of Time: Mystery and Prism Clocks 0-007 Rock crystal, black jade, sterling silver (stand) Private collection Mystery clocks, called “marvels of horology”, and prism clocks, are based on Mystery clock a skillful use of optical illusions and light. For the mystery clocks, the two Cartier hands of the clock appear to float in the dial as if there were no connection 1997 0-012 to a mechanism. The movement is hidden within the base or by other White gold, one 54.40-carat amethyst Prism clock surrounding decoration. (dial), diamonds, chrysoprase, agate, Cartier Paris It takes a minimum of several months to complete a mystery clock. They mother-of-pearl (base), rubies, emeralds, circa 1955 are created thanks to the cooperation of many craftsmen including goldsmiths, sapphires, diamonds Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds enamelers, polishers, and, of course, watchmakers. Although this mysterious Private collection Monaco Princely Palace Collection complication has now been disclosed, the mystery clock has been made throughout the generations, and continues to be treasured as an art piece. 0-008 0-013 Mystery clock with single axle Prism clock Cartier Cartier 0-001 0-003 2015 1981 Model A mystery clock Large Portique mystery clock Yellow gold, citrine, agate, onyx, diamonds Silver, rock crystal Cartier Paris Cartier Paris Private collection circa 1924 1923 0-009 Platinum, yellow gold, rock crystal, Yellow gold, platinum, rock crystal, onyx, Mystery clock with single axle 0-014 nephrite, enamel, diamonds black enamel, coral, diamonds Cartier Prism clock Private collection 2015 Cartier 0-004 White gold, amethyst (dial), agate, onyx, 2016 0-002 Mystery clock with single axle turquoises, diamonds Silver, black jade Model A mystery clock Cartier Paris Monaco Princely Palace Collection Cartier Paris 1921 1961 Yellow gold, platinum, citrine, onyx, white Platinum, yellow gold, white gold, rock enamel, black enamel, diamonds crystal, diamonds Private collection Chapter 1. 1-013 1-019 Material Transformation and Colors Ring Necklace ■ Cartier Cartier In Chapter 1, you will explore how as a jeweler Cartier works with materials, 2005 2010 be it metals or stones, using its exceptional savoir-faire in order to create Yellow gold, pink gold, white gold Platinum, sculpted petrified wood, brown the most innovative designs. Private collection diamonds, onyx, white cultured pearls, For instance, the Maison insisted upon the use of platinum in jewelry as a grey cultured pearls, emeralds, diamonds way of accentuating diamonds. The materials are not limited to gemstones, 1-014 Private collection but on occasion include bird feathers and other organic substances. The combinations of gemstones creating vivid and unprecedented strong Oval lighter Cartier 1-020 color contrasts were first introduced to the Cartier repertoire in the early circa 1974 20th century. In more recent years, a new pursuit of more delicate color Necklace Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold Cartier combinations has emerged. 2017 Cartier’s unique way of combining colors has always been linked to the 1-015 Platinum, white gold, sculpted smoky exploration of new creative approaches to jewelry design. quartz, white cultured pearls, grey cultured Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch pearls, quartz, emeralds, onyx, diamonds Cartier Private collection 2013 1-005 1. Metal Techniques: Yellow gold, yellow gold granulation 1-021 Platinum / Steel / Three Golds / Necklace (panther motif), diamonds, leather strap Cartier Gold Techniques Bulldog 2014 1-016 Cartier Cartier Garland style jewelry was first Platinum, one 17.01-carat modified shield- circa 1907 introduced at the very end of the 19th Rotonde de Cartier wristwatch shaped step-cut diamond, diamonds Carved smoky quartz, diamonds, chased century. Cartier Private collection gold Platinum was used to set these 2014 elegant designs, which were often Yellow gold, gold-paste grisaille enamel 1-006 presented in the form of tiaras, (panther motif), diamonds, leather strap 1-022 necklaces, and brooches or stomacher Tiara Mysterious hour and minute complication Bracelet brooches. Cartier Paris, special order Cartier Originally, silver and gold were used 1914 1-017 2009 to set stones. However, as soft metals, Platinum, blackened steel, diamonds, Platinum, sculpted black jade, one ruby, Ronde Louis Cartier wristwatch greater amounts of material is required rubies natural pearls, diamonds Cartier for their settings, making jewelry look Private collection heavy. Moreover, silver also darkens 2015 1-007 over time. Platinum, on the other hand, Yellow gold, yellow gold and platinum is much harder by nature and is more Santos de Cartier wristwatch filigree (panther motifs), dark blue lacquer, 1-023 suitable for use on fine and delicate Cartier black lacquer, emeralds, diamonds, leather Necklace pieces, such as flowered branches, 1981 strap Cartier bows, and lace watermarks. Steel, yellow gold, one blue spinel 2016 Platinum’s pure whiteness and the White gold, lavender tanzanites, brilliance of its surface also enhanced 1-008 aquamarines, moonstones, onyx, the dazzle of diamonds under the 2. Stone Techniques: diamonds electric lamps that were being Bracelet Glyptics (hardstone carving, Cartier introduced in the ball rooms at the including fossilized wood) / 1-024 time. 1987 Engraving / Stringing Yellow gold, steel Ring One quality seen throughout all of the Private collection Cartier 1-001 Cartier creations is the incomparable 2016 technique of the in-house artisans. 1-009 White gold, lavender tanzanites, Tiara One technique, for example, is Cartier Paris, special order Necklace “glyptic” art, an extremely demanding aquamarines, moonstones, onyx, 1905 Cartier technique in which hard stones— diamonds Platinum, diamonds 1988 jade, agate, jasper, quartz, fossilized Steel, yellow gold, white gold, pink gold wood, and more—are engraved. 1-025 1-002 Stones that have slumbered for eons Earrings Lily stomacher brooch 1-010 have been awoken and given new Cartier Paris Cartier Paris, special order forms. The natural colors and patterns Bracelet 1937 1906 are thoroughly examined, after Cartier Platinum, osmior, sapphires, diamonds Platinum, diamonds which the carving begins. The unique 1986 characteristics of each miraculously Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold, uncovered stone become the creative 1-026 1-003 diamonds starting point. Ring Russian tiara Today, Cartier takes every effort to Cartier Paris Cartier Paris 1-011 ensure this knowledge is passed on to 1948 1908 the next generation. It is one of the Ring Yellow gold, sapphires Platinum, fifteen pear-shaped diamonds techniques that supported the extension Cartier totalling approximately 19 carats, natural of design possibilities in jewelry, such 2004 1-027 pearls, diamonds as engraving (or use of engraved Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold gemstones which is originally an Indian Chimera bracelet technique), and bead stringing. Cartier Paris 1-004 1-012 1983 Necklace Trinity bracelet Yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds Cartier 1-018 Cartier Paris 1990 1977 Tiara 1-028 Platinum, diamonds Cartier Paris, special order Yellow gold, white gold, pink gold 1912 Bracelet Cartier Platinum, carved rock crystal, diamonds 2015 Platinum, diamonds Private collection 1-035 Inspired by the Ballets Russes, unique 1-049 3. Artisanal Skills and vivid combinations started to appear, Decorative Techniques: Desk clock with strut Earrings Cartier Paris such as blue and green - named the Cartier “peacock pattern” by Louis Cartier, Enamel / Mother-of-pearl / 1929 2017 Kingfisher Feathers / Organic but also red and black, blue and purple Ebonie, mother-of-pearl, coral, black Platinum, two sugarloaf emeralds from Materials (rose petals, straw, or black and white, typical of Modern enamel, laque burgauté plaque depicting Colombia totalling 7.48 carats, onyx, etc.) / Hardstone Marquetry style jewelry which preceded the Art a Chinese landscape,