THE HISTORY OF THE PalaceRoyal An imposing building

Antigua Royal The Royal Palace was witness to im- and wealth through the production portant events during the more than of currency in the Colonial period. two hundred years that it functioned as the seat to the Audiencia de Gua- Its preeminent location in the city Palace temala, and to the Captaincy Gen- and architectural characteristics make A witness to important events eral of the Kingdom of Guatemala. the Royal Palace a unique expression It was headquarters for the political, of a relevant period in the history of military, and economic administra- Guatemala and , tion for the Spanish Crown in the terri- and a jewel of the Nation’s Cultural oday it is one of the most emblematic buildings in tories of current and Central Heritage. America. Antigua Guatemala. The monumentality and the Its interior spaces today allow us to complexity of its architecture are a reflection of the Traversing through its spaces, one comprehend the historical evolution T can discover how the government func- since the arrival of the Spanish Con- power, the relevance, and the variety of functions that took place tioned, the administration of justice, quistadors. within its walls, when it was seat of the Colonial Government. and the control of the population The capital of the Guatemala Panchoy. Two years after, the first Province was originally established “” (council) of the city was The Very Noble and Very Loyal in the Kaqchikel city of ’, in held, and the relocation was officially 1524. Due to constant indigenous consummated. City of Santiago of the Knights uprisings, on November 22nd, 1527 it was relocated in the Valley of Located at an altitude of 1500 meters, of the Kingdom of Guatemala Bulbuxyá or Almolonga, a name that in an area of prevalent seismic activity, means “place where water springs”. it was largely destroyed by the Santa ntigua Guatemala, as we know it today, Marta Earthquake on July, 1773. was once the city of “Santiago de los In 1541 the capital was destroyed Caballeros de Guatemala”. It was the by a strong weather front and a In August of that same year, at the A mudslide that descended from Agua request of the President, Governor setting for an important part of the country’s history. Volcano, causing the death to the and Captain General, Martín de Governess Doña Beatriz de la Cueva, Mayorga, the relocation of the city In colonial times, for 232 years, Antigua was the widow of the “adelantado” (a civil and was agreed upon, at first temporarily seat of power to the government of the Kingdom and military governor of Spanish colonies) and then permanently to the Valley of Captaincy General of Guatemala. Because of this, and “conquistador” Don Pedro de the Ermita or the Virgin, where the and the preservation of , this city Alvarado, among many others. capital of Guatemala remains until today – in 1776 this new city was was declared in 1979 a World Cultural Heritage Site Later in 1541 the capital was moved named “La Nueva Guatemala de la by UNESCO. for the third time to the Valley of Asunción”– . N

Urban Planning W E S and Public Buildings Antigua Guatemala Constructed in a grid plan where streets ments, including public buildings, vari- run at right angles to each other and ous churches, convents and residences, form rectangular blocks, the layout were constructed. was inspired in the principles of the Italian Renaissance. This style of ur- On July 1532 Queen ban planning was largely utilized since Doña Juana I of the outset of the colonization of the awarded the city of Americas, in which a Plaza was built Santiago its Coat in the center along with government of Arms. Later, in and religious buildings. March of 1566 King Felipe II conferred Shortly after its settlement, the city the city the title of extended beyond the originally planned Very Noble and Very Loyal City of layout. In less than three centuries Santiago of the Knights of the King- a large number of imposing monu- dom of Guatemala.

Royal Palace

Main Buildings

1. Main Square 12. El Carmen 23. Espíritu Santo 34. Candelaria 2. Royal Palace 13. Capuchinas 24. Santa Lucía 35. N.S. Dolores del Cerro 3. Cathedral 14. Santa Teresa 25. San José el Viejo 36. Escuela de Cristo 4. Palacio Arzobispal 15. Santa Catalina 26. San Francisco 37. Guadalupe 5. Ayuntamiento 16. La Merced 27. Santa Clara 38. Belén 6. Compañía de Jesús 17. San Sebastián 28. Cruz del Milagro 39. La Santa Cruz 7. San Agustín 18. Santiago 29. La Concepción 40. Los Remedios 8. San Pedro 19. Santísima Trinidad 30. Santo Domingo 41. Santa Ana 9. Colegio Tridentino 20. La Recolección 31. Beatas Indias 42. El Calvario

Photo: Diego Lezama, courtesy of: Fundación G&T Fundación courtesy of: Lezama, Diego Photo: 10. San Carlos University 21. Real Aduana 32. Santa Rosa 43. Santa Isabel 11. San Juan de Dios 22. San Lázaro 33. N.S. Dolores del Llano 1751 The magnitude of the 1777 Symbology 1543 damages caused by the Sept. 27th Sept. 13th. earthquake to the Royal The Captain General Discovery of America The first Hearing Palace caused the closing Martín de Mayorga, after called Audiencia of the jail, the Royal a visit to the structure of de los Confines, Agreement Chamber (Sala the Royal Palace ordered History of the Real was introduced del Real Acuerdo) and the the removal of everything Palacio building during by Royal Decree 1560 Chancellery that could be used in the the Colonial Period His Majesty the King stated 1755 new city, including pipes, that the president of the The President of the fountains, timber, coat of June 13th Royal Audience would also Royal Audience Alonso arms, etc. Main events of the The “pregon” be the general governor of de Arcos y Moreno Colonial Period in takes place, the province 1674 requested a complete Guatemala giving the order The building was renovation of the building to name the The First Palace in the two stories high city “The City of on its north wing After the relocation of Santiago” XVI century 1600 - 1651- 1764 In this century the and had an ample This remodeling left the city small houses architecture of the building 1603 1700 portal, also two the new portal as is were built in front, and The Palace in the Major stories high, but seen today the building did not have March 10th was very modest, made with unstable construction construction only in the front a specific use. In1850 The first “cabildo” XVII materials, which coupled work was facade of the the facade was restored History of the or council was held century The new facade in the with the constant seismic done to the Grand Palace and between 1885- in the new city The old jail was activity in the region, and it Royal Palace XVIII century 1892 various sections refurbished as upgrading the Royal was constantly damaged In this century three major were reconstructed housing facilities for construction earthquakes caused an 1775 two members of the materials Dec. 29th unprecedented scale of Palace Royal Audience and remodeling 1679 The ¨Ayuntamiento¨of the ¨Very Noble and destruction in the city of various spaces Very Loyal City of Santiago of the Kingdom During colonial times the Royal March 18th Santiago, and the Royal Palace 1549 of Guatemala¨, after 232 years and 9 months Bishop Francisco Inauguration of the building had to undergo major Palace was headquarters to the of having remained in the Valley of Panchoy, Marroquín handed over room for the Royal Seal renovations Government of the Kingdom of his residence for the in the Grand Palace moves to the Valley of the ¨Ermita¨ for its Guatemala, fulfilling the purpose of Royal Audience new establishment. It was the last government institution to abandon Santiago its construction

1490 1500 1510 1520 1530 1540 1550 1560 1570 1580 1590 1600 1610 1620 1630 1640 1650 1660 1670 1680 1690 1700 1710 1720 1730 1740 1750 1760 1770 1780 1790 1800 1810 1820 1660 1717 Sept. 29th 1773 1799 1566 The first July 29th March printing San Miguel 1541 March 10th 1751 The Santa Marta The city is named 1498 July 15th King Felipe II press Earthquake causes March 4th Columbus earthquake caused Villa of La Antigua Don conferred the city was unprecedented Strong earthquakes Third Voyage: 1676 severe damage but Guatemala passed away the title of the “Very Introduced destruction in the affected the City discovered the 1524 Creation of the Saint even though not totally 1492 Noble and Very Loyal Charles University City of Santiago and of Santiago caus- Island of Trinidad, Pedro de Alvarado destroyed, it was the Cristopher City of Santiago its buildings ing grave damage and explored began conquering Sept. 11th reason for the definite Columbus with A mud slide descended of the Kingdom of to the buildings the Gulf of Paria Guatemala abandonment of the 1821 three ships, from Agua Volcano Guatemala” 1719 in the city, espe- City of Santiago, departed from (Venezuela), and cially to the Royal Sept. 15th the Darien coast July 27th destroying the city in Feb. 3rd following the Independence Spain, trying to Almolonga, and killing The Royal Palace (Panama) Establishment insistence of Captain of Guatemala find a western Doña Beatriz De La Audience of the first city General, Martín de route to Asia, Cueva, among many informs His in Guatemala in Mayorga but discovered others Majesty the Iximche’, with a the Antilles King that the camp site instead Sept. 17th city was almost 1502 The “Ayuntamiento” (council) 1731 Columbus reconstructed 1493 1527 elected and appointed Fran- The founding of the 1775 Fourth Voyage: on September Currency House in the City July 21st Columbus Abandonment cisco Marroquín and Francisco 1570 Discovered The Royal 1717 of Santiago was authorized Royal Decree by His Second Voyage: of Iximche’ de la Cueva as governors of Central America Audience was Majesty King Carlos III discovered the Guatemala province definitely settled authorizing the formal Puerto Rico Nov. 22nd. The capital was in Santiago relocation of the City of and Jamaica Nov. 18th. moved to the The order was Santiago to the Valley of Bulbuxyá or given to move the Virgin Almolonga Valley the capital to the 1563 Panchoy Valley The Royal Audience was Colonial History of 1776 1532 moved to Panama Oct. 22nd Queen Doña Juana 1729 Royal Order enacted Dec. 4th The Gaceta de Guatemala, I of Spain granted that the capital in the The ejidos or was published, one of the city of Santiago communal lands Guatemala Valley of the Virgin the first newspapers in it’s Royal Coat of was to be named the where assigned in America Arms the new city “Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción”

The Palace in the XVIII century: a new facade History of the Building In this century three major earthquakes caused they prompted the closing of the jail, the Captain General and President Martín de he Royal Palace did not always have the an unprecedented scale of destruction in the Sala del Real Acuerdo, and the Chancellery. Mayorga to give the order to move the city city of Santiago, and the Royal Palace building Considering the destruction, in 1755 the to a new location. Large areas of the building This section view shows the Royal had to go under deep renovation, more than in President of the Royal Audience Alonso suffered serious damage, not only caused by Palace monumentality and the large same appearance that it has today. It experi- scale of its architectural spaces enced a series of transformations throughout previous centuries. de Arcos y Moreno requested a complete earthquakes, but also because of the removal T renovation, the remodeling concluded nine of everything that could be used in the new the centuries, required by the new functions that were The first large earthquake occurred on years later, leaving the building and its new city, including furniture, doors, balconies, to be performed, along with the constant restorations September 29th 1717. It caused grave damage portal as is seen today. pipes, fountains, timber, coat of arms, by order to most of the buildings in the city, among them of the President. following seismic activity that affected the city. the Royal Palace. Architect Mayor Diego de The earthquakes of 1773 again brought Royal Palace facade, designed and Porres was in charge of the repairs, and were severe damage to the building and to the constructed by Luis Diez Navarro, completed in 1720. Later the Currency House city in general, this was the cause for and finished in 1769. The first Palace in the XVI century: was added in 1731. 5 It was constructed on the area of the original residence of Bishop 5 Francisco Marroquín, who sold the land to the Royal Audience in A new earthquake affected Santiago on January 1549. The first Palace was a very modest building, because of the 4th 1751 and the magnitude of the damages lack of sufficiently qualified architects and master builders for affecting the Royal Palace were so serious that large buildings. 3

The Palace in the XVII century: 4 2 The constant seismic activity in the region caused damage in al- most every building on the city. The Royal Palace was especially vulnerable to deterioration because it was a group of buildings, not one solid structure.

By the second half of the XVII century the Royal Palace under- went major renovations, upgrading the construction materials and Architectural floor plan of the Royal Palace, per architectural drawings of Luis Diez de Navarro changing its appearance, mainly to the front facade facing the Source: Luis Diez de Navarro, Main Plaza. Up until that time the north wing was divided in the 1755 and 1763 1 architectural drawings,1755 and 1763 Grand Palace (that covered almost half of the front and belonged to the Royal Audience), the Hall of Arms, the Royal Chapel and the jail. 4 Front facade of the Royal Palace by the end of the XVII 1 Grand Palace century, and the beginning of the XVIII century. This recon- struction shows the building before it was reformed to the 5 2 Jail appearance we now see today. 1 Grand Palace 3 Residence of the 1 Superintendent of the 2 Jail Currency House or Residence of the 3 “Small Palace” Superintendent of the Currency House or 1 4 Governors residence “Small Palace” 3 3 5 4 Governor’s residence 2 5 Currency House 5 2 5 Currency House

First floor Second floor The Palace of the XIX century By the mid 1850’s, several administrative and Royal religious buildings were reconstructed in Antigua Guatemala. Renovations were made to the por- tal of the Royal Palace, mainly on the eastern wing, that had suffered the most damage. Small Palace houses built by residents after 1773 were also removed from the front of the building. Seat of Power to the Colonial Government

The Palace of the XX century The highest jurisdictional body that In 1549 the “Audiencia de Los Con- In 1936, after a new reconstruction ordered by functioned in the Palace was the Royal fines” was moved to Santiago. Some- president , the palace was headquar- Audience, it concentrated the execu- time later the provinces of Yucatan ters for the State Government. The building was tive and judicial powers. The Captain (1550) and Soconusco (1553) were repaired again after the earthquakes of 1942 General —a high military rank in the added. In 1563 the Royal Audience and 1976, that had devastated the central region Spanish Army— was also the Audi- transferred to Panama and the “Audi- of the country. ence President, and the province gov- encia de los Confines” was closed. Five ernor, appointed from Spain. He was years later King Felipe II ordered the under the command of the closing of the Royal Audience in Pan- Viceroyalty (today ), but as ama, and the creation of a new one we will see, he had some autonomous called the Royal Audience of Guate- functions. Because the Palace housed mala, definitively settling in Santiago, both the seat of power for the Govern- by that time the construction of the ment, and also the Governor’s and Cap- first Royal Palace begun. tain General residence, today it is com- monly known as the Captain’s General The Royal Audience was comprised Royal Palace. of a President, who was also the Gov- ernor and Captain General, and Five Royal Audience and “Oidores” (judges), in charge of pre- Royal Treasury senting and discussing proposals, and The “ de los Confines” deliberating on Royal Decrees. They was introduced by Royal Decree by King also functioned as judges, responsible Carlos I on September 1543, and first it for the administration of justice. was established in Comayagua, and then temporarily settled in a Dios, When the Royal Audience was perma- both on what is now . nently established in Santiago (1570) it managed a vast territory, consisting of the “Itzaes” –today Flores, Peten-, only authorized ones in the XVI and in 1697. Finally the outstanding role of XVII centuries. This situation changed Captain General Gabino Gainza in the when in 1731, the Mint House of Gua- events that reached the agreement and temala was authorized. signing of the declaration of on the inde- pendence September 15th, 1821. It was the fourth Currency House au- thorized in the continent, after México The Currency House in 1537, Peru in 1565, and Potosi in During most of the colonial period the 1572, gives testimony to the impor- scarcity of coin or currency was a seri- tance that the Kingdom of Guatemala ous problem, to the extent of limiting acquired in those years. To facilitate transactions, and even the payment of its control, the construction of its fa- tributes. Many times, it was necessary cilities on the south-east side of the to barter and trade, and even cacao, Royal Palace were authorized, in a the Pre-Hispanic currency, traditional separate building but within the same of five countries of Central America: mum authority of the Viceroyalty. In to the region, was at times used. complex. , , El Salva- certain cases, due to the vast expanse dor, Honduras and Guatemala, the of the territories, Captain Generals The Kingdom depended on the distibu- The Royal House of Currency issued Mexican state of Chiapas, part of the were named, and depended on the Vice- tion of coins minted by the currency its first minted coin in 1733: a dou- state of Campeche and Soconusco, it roy, as was the case of Guatemala. houses of México and Peru, being the bloon of sixteen shields. was governed by President , appointed by the Viceroy The Caiptancy General of Guatemala of New Spain, who was the former was founded by King Carlos I in 1536. governor of Guatemala and Honduras The territory that the Captaincy Gen- provinces. eral administered was the same as that of the Royal Audience. The Royal Audience also controlled other institutions like the Royal Trea- In the case of Guatemala, the maximum sury, whereas in Spain the Royal Trea- authority was the president of the Royal sury received and administered the Audience who also acted as Captain money from the colonies, in the colo- General and Governor of Guatemala, nies its function was to collect taxes played a determinant role in the history and fees. of the country. An example of the great influence of the position was the order Captaincy General to relocate the capital of Guatemala The Captaincy General was exclusive- from the valley of Panchoy to the valley ly a military institution. The Captain of La Ermita, by order of the president General was the outmost leader of the Martín de Mayorga, which the Land and Sea Armies of the Indies, and neighboring populations opposed. and its jurisdiction extended over the territories that were assigned under Other relevant initiatives presided by the him. The militia in the Americas ex- Captain General were the expeditions to cercised the functions of defense, po- submit the “lacandones”, the native pop- lice, and prison guards, so the Captain ulation in the northern jungles, through- General had to administer these three out the XVII century and the subse- functions. The Viceroy was the maxi- quent conquest of Noj Petén, capital

Source: Lovell, W. George and Lutz, C. H. Royal Palace facade after the city was moved, XVIII century Uses of the building after the relocation of the City

After the city’s evacuation following claim that around that time the Royal the earthquakes of 1773, the Royal Palace served as a storehouse, and the Palace was abandoned. Due to the ancient House of the President and fact that not all of the population the Currency House became private vacated the city, some sectors of the residences. Royal Palace were re-occupied, such as the house of the President of the Audi- During the government of Manuel Lisan- ence, and the Currency House, along dro Barillas (1885-1892), some sec- with other parts left standing. tions of the Palace were reconstructed and various public offices were in- In engravings of the time one can dis- stalled within them: the Peace Court, Photo: E.J. Kildare, end of the XIX century. Consejo National Council for the Protection of La Antigua Guatemala cern various small houses standing Magistrate´s Courts, National Police over the ruins of the portal. Around Outpost, jail, and political headquar- By the end of the 1960´s the Currency In the beginning of the 1980´s part 1850 those buildings were vacated and ters. In governments following Manuel House was occupied by the post and of the main courtyard of the Grand demolished, the facade of the portal Estrada Cabrera, the political leader- telegraphs office, managed by the re- Palace and other areas around it were was reconstructed, but still the build- ship was transformed into the Depart- cently created Empresa de Telecomu- granted to the Army, and transformed ing had no definite use. Some sources mental Government. nicaciones (GUATEL). into Military Headquarters. Photo: José Miguel Leiva Meza

The Royal Palace Today

The Royal Palace is an important part of The restoration and conservation of the the Guatemalan identity, and pride to the building had the supervision of the Na- people of Antigua, the “antigüeños”. tional Council for the Protection of Anti- gua Guatemala. Because of its location in the heart of An- tigua Guatemala, it is a monument with At present, the building is under the ad- immense value to the Nation’s Heritage, ministration of the Ministry of Culture and is subject to the Antigua Guatemala and Sports, and destined to be Antigua Protection Laws, to ensure its conserva- Guatemala’s Cultural Center. tion. Antigua Ministry of Culture and Sports (MCS) Guatemala Carlos Batzín

Viceministry of Culture and Natural Heritage Rosa María Chan

General Directorate of Cultural and Natural Heritage Oscar Mora

World Monuments Fund Norma Barbacci

Text, illustrations and graphic design: Text: Hilda María Morales and Julián González / Apóstrofe Diseño Illustrations: Julián González Graphic Design: Maite Aguilar / Apóstrofe Diseño

Project coordination, World Heritage Office (MCS): María Elena Molina and Willian González Text editing (MCS): Miguel Álvarez, Willian González, Mirella Mendoza, José Mario Maza and María Elena Molina

Photographs: National Council for the Protection of Antigua Guatemala, Ministry of Culture and Sports, G&T Foundation

Contact: World Heritage Office (MCS) Telephone: +(502) 2221-0837, 2208-6600 www.mcd.gob.gt

MCS 2014. Interpretative Guide of the Royal Palace of La Antigua Guatemala. Ministry of Culture and Sports (MCS) Guatemala 24 pp.

This publication was funded by World Monuments Fund – WMF. It is allowed to completely or partially reproduce the contents for educational purposes only, as long as the source Tourist Assistance and authors are credited. Telephone: +(502) 1500

WORLD MONUMENTS FUND