Trip Summary

It is tough to be erudite at 1 in morning while waiting for a flight at the airport, but I’ll try to sum up my experiences from my trip as best as I can.

Overall the trip was a stellar success! I think my goals of visiting the great Mayan ruins and experiencing some of the indigenous Mayan culture were met. was fantastic and I would certainly highly recommend it. It has a great mixture of fantastic ruins, natural beauty (Rainforests), and a unique indigenous culture. The only downside (for some people) would be the lack of developed tourist infrastructure (bad roads) in much of the country. But I think this just adds to the adventure. I wish I had spent more time in Guatemala. 1: Banyan Tree growing over Mayan ruins The southern Mexican province of has a lot in common with Guatemala. Jungles, indigenous villages and great Mayan ruins. There are great ruins spread through the rest of the peninsula, but these areas do not have a strong indigenous Mayan presence. Like Guatemala’s Antigua, has a number of very picturesque colonial cities- Campeche and Merida are perfect examples. was a great surprise. I was less thrilled with . Although if you are into diving I am sure Belize is great. The busses were an experience, Caracol was an impressive Mayan ruin and Belize does have a unique blend of cultures.

The religion of these regions was particularly interesting, especially in Guatemala. Guatemala’s religious practices are a mixture of Catholicism and indigenous Mayan traditions. Much to the discomfort of the Spanish, the Mayan people incorporated Mayan spiritual elements and deities (as Saints) when Catholicism was introduced (forced upon them). The “evil saint” Maximon is an example of a traditional devious spirit that is continued to be respected by the Mayan community. The religious practices in Mexico seem more typical of Spanish Catholicism and are very devout. But Mexican Catholicism also has it peculiarities. Note the strange icons and the massive pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe on Dec 12th. Although Belizeans seem very religious as well, their devotion tends to be of a more reserved Anglican variety.

Although the food wasn’t as good or unique as some of my last trips (India and the Middle East), it was generally very tasty. Guatemala and Mexico’s shared Mayan and Spanish history have produced similar cuisines. They are largely based around the Mayan staple crops, corn and black beans. Maize 2: Icon in Mexico City was so important to the Mayans that they believed that the gods forged humans from Maize. Corn tortillas and refried Black Beans are served at most meals. When eating at an inexpensive restaurant (especially in Guatemala), meats (chicken, turkey and beef) are usually served in stews or cooked in spicy chili sauce. Guacamole is also served with many meals. In the upscale Guatemalan restaurants or in Mexico, popular dishes include the well known fajitas, enchiladas, burritos and tacos. Although also possessing Mayan and Spanish influences, Belizean food is primarily Creole (Caribbean) in character. The main dish is rice and beans. Unlike Guatemala and Belize, Mexico has been thoroughly infiltrated with western food and fast food chains. I really learned to like refried Black Bean paste and Belizean beans and rice, while fajitas have always been a favorite of mine.

Both Guatemala and Belize are very poor countries. Although the effects of the poverty in Belize seem to be less pronounced, this may partially be due to the very low population density. I was told that there is only one Movie Theater in the entire country! In Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula the 3: Student from Belize tourist areas are relatively well developed as are the large cities throughout the regions. They have all the trappings of western capitalism. There is very noticeable difference when you transverse the Belize/Mexican border. The rural villages, especially around are far worse off amd not much better than Guatemala, although the transportation infrastructure is better. Even in Guatemala the poverty doesn’t seem as desperate as what I have seen in places like Egypt, India, Cambodia and 4: Southern Mexico near Guatemala China.

The best part of the trip was being able to see the interrelated history of the Mesoamerican cultures evolve as I visited the different ruins. The early metropolis of Teotihuacan was able to influence classical Mayan world through trade and by sending emissaries to cities like . These same Mayan cities then filled the power vacuum during terminal period the when Teotihuacan abruptly collapsed. In the 12th century the as the classical Mayan powers of Guatemala, and the Southern Yucatan failed to survive the changing climate the Toltecs and cities like Chichen Itza arose to power. Then finally as the Mayan world faded into history, the last of the 5: Mayan Girl great Mesoamerican Empires (the Aztecs) arose in the Mexico City basin. It was also interesting to see how the modern Mayan communities have adapted (failed in many respects) to colonial and modern parliamentary rule. *note that this history is a vast oversimplification of many complex interrelated cultures and events.

6: Mayan trading Post at Tulum Favorites: Best Ruins 1. Tikal- Tikal is a huge site, isolated in the Guatemalan Jungle. There is a perfect mix of excavated and unexcavated ruins and most of the time you are alone (except for the howler monkeys).

2. Copan- Although Copan is on the small side, it is in a great location and it was my first Mayan experience. Plus it is a great excuse to go to Honduras.

3. Palenque- Well preserved unique ruins in a great location, just wish there were less tourists to contend with.

4. Teotihuacan – Impressive scale

5. Chichen Itza- The main temple is lovely

Best Sites other than Ruins

1. – This town’s market is a great introduction to Mayan culture.

2. Mexico City- Great surprise, lots to see in this complicated city.

3. Lake Atitlan- Small Mayan villages on the shore of a volcanic lake.

4. Campeche- Colonial splendor on the Gulf of Mexico

5. Zinacatan- Mayan culture Mexican style

6. Antigua- Guatemala’s Colonial heritage.

Best Experiences 1. Exploring Tikal- as above. 2. Road to San Cristobal- Hazy, windy mountain road filled with small Mayan villages, need I say more?

3. Tour by local around Lake Atitlan- the main loved his hat!

Strangest Moments  Getting a refund for poorly performing carts from a Belizean with a giant hand gun in his back pocket  Being involved in Belizean drug smuggling operation and the following drug bust

Disappointments  Chichen Itza – Overrated  More time in Guatemala – If I had planned my trip differently I would have spent more time in Guatemala  Cop traffic ticket scam in Cancun  Cancun- I guess I am just not a beach person  Spanish music- While listening to the radio while driving my rental car in Mexico I discovered much of modern Mexican music is awful (very melodramatic).  Rain in Rio Dulce kept me from visiting Livingstone

What I learned  Can’t cure intestinal ailments with Tequila  Go to Guatemala NOW, before it becomes a hotter tourist destination  About the disenfranchisement of the modern Mayan communities  Don’t stand in a fire ant nest  Environmental Determinism- I don’t want to spark a debate about free will, but you can’t help but notice how the similar highland climates of Guatemala and Northern Vietnam have produced striking similarities in the lifestyles, clothing and economies that of these two cultures.

What I didn’t learn  Spanish

Like I sated at the beginning, overall everything went amazingly well. I didn’t loss anything (unless the airline does on the way home).There were only a couple days of minor illness and only a couple days of rain. I am actually returning home several days early because I completed my itinerary so smoothly.

Like I said most of this was written at 1 am at the Mexico City airport, so I hope it makes sense and with all the e-mails it was written fairly quickly so I cannot claim to be entirely factually accurate.

Warning! Shameless plug coming below!

Anyway if you enjoyed the journals, you can help fund my future travels by recommending me as a Wedding or Portrait photographer or by purchasing fine art prints from my web site (www.n- images.net)

Adios, Sean www.n-images.net

7: Uxmal

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