February 2021

FEBRUARY 2021

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FEATURES DEPARTMENTS 14 34 WHISKEY: WHAT'S NEW PROPRIETOR PROFILE: 18 02 Party Time Liquors ... HOW BARS ARE PUB PAGE 24 An American Success Story SURVIVING THE A Look Back, BRAND PROFILE to Find a Way Forward ... PANDEMIC Barefoot Stays Sweet Bar owners from across the with Fruitscato country share strategies for 04 staying in business. NEW PRODUCTS 26 & PROMOTIONS REGION FOCUS 28 LIGHT WHISKEY’S 08 Opportunity Knocks for Alentejo COMEBACK? BEER, Distillers rediscover this INDUSTRY TRENDS 28 high-proof, light-colored— Breweries were forced to CATEGORY FOCUS and long forgotten— adapt in 2020. Which pivots category as a blank canvas are poised to become Light Whiskey's Comeback? ON THE COVER: of opportunity. permanent fixtures on the Photograph by brewing landscape? Maxim Fesenko / iStock

VOLUME83NUMBER02 February 2021 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1 PUB Maryland l Washington, DC PAGE

Published Monthly by The Beverage Journal, Inc. (USPS# PE 783300) A LOOK BACK, Over 80 Years of Continuous Publication TO MOVE FORWARD… We now know that three things are BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. For so many, 2020 was a year of fear and certain: the pandemic tested the limits of President / Publisher Stephen Patten uncertainty as the coronavirus ravaged the operator creativity and knowhow, acceler- [email protected] country and put the on-premise side of the ated tech adoption and emerging trends, and 410.796.5455 industry through its worst year in history. The confirmed that customers sorely miss their Board of Directors Lee W. Murray economy came to a halt as millions of Ameri- restaurant experiences. Thomas W. Murray cans sheltered in place, and businesses were From surveys of 6,000 restaurant op- Information Technology Peter Williams forced to close indoor spaces. The National Director [email protected] erators and 1,000 consumers, the National Restaurant Association (www.restaurant.org) Restaurant Association has identified how EDITORIAL has gathered some interesting statistics and restaurateurs demonstrated resiliency, innova- Senior Editor Kristen Bieler trends I wanted to share… [email protected] tion and commitment as well as the food and About 110,000 restaurants across the na- menu trends likely to stick around. Managing Editor W. R. Tish [email protected] tion fell victim to dining restrictions imposed Top trends include: due to the pandemic, closing either tempo- Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, • Streamlined menus Keven Danow, Edward Durgin rarily or for good. David Lincoln Ross, • Overwhelming shift to off-premises dining Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello According to the National Restaurant Association research, the industry lost some • Blended meals, part homemade, part ART & DESIGN restaurant-supplied Creative Director Larry Lee $240 billion in sales and is still 2.5 million jobs [email protected] below pre-pandemic levels. • Restaurant-brand meal kits Senior Designer Jeff Tsui [email protected] Nevertheless, the on-premise side of the • Alcohol to go industry has persevered. By quickly switching TECHNOLOGY & WEB If you’re wondering what foods customers to off-premises service, innovating opera- eCommerce Director Ian Griffith craved most, the National Restaurant As- [email protected] tions, and adapting contactless technology, sociation asked operators to name their No. eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube restaurants and bars have shown resiliency, Online Web Programming Vali Balescu 1 selling item right now and 6,000 of them doing everything they can to keep their busi- responded. Here are the top sellers from PRINT & PRODUCTION nesses open and employees on the payroll. fullservice restaurants: Print Services Manager Lee Stringham Some converted closed dining rooms into [email protected] • Burgers 410.519.7034 grocery store staging areas so that customers • Seafood could pick up supermarket staples and hard- ADVERTISING & MARKETING to-get supplies along with their restaurant • Pizza MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten [email protected] orders. Working through a different supply • Steak 410.796.5455 chain, operators often had access to supplies • Chicken (excl. wings) National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik grocery stores couldn’t keep in stock. [email protected] • Breakfast items 212.571.3232 Technology that might have been “nice • Pasta to have” before the pandemic suddenly became “need to have” to enable touchless • Mexican food transactions. • Sandwiches/subs/wraps POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Alcohol-to-go service became a best- • Chicken wings THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. selling option for many struggling establish- 2021 Restaurant Trends is developed with P.O. Box 159, Hampstead, MD 21074-0159 ments as many state and local jurisdictions the National Restaurant Association’s State of The Maryland Beverage Journal, the Washington, DC Beverage Journal and the temporarily stayed regulations that prohibited the Restaurant Industry report, which will be Delaware Beverage Journal are registered trademarks of Beverage Journal, Inc. such sales prior to the pandemic. All rights reserved. available for download Tuesday, January 26. Periodicals postage paid at Baltimore, MD and additional Many of the innovations deployed not Visit www.restaurant.org for more informa- mailing offices. Subscription rates: MD edition; 1 year $45.00 plus tax, 2 years $75.00 plus tax, 3 years $100.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus only helped keep on-premise establishments tion. n tax per year per edition, single copies $10.00 plus tax. DC edition; 1 year $36.00 plus tax, 2 years $60.00 plus tax, 3 years $83.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery afloat in 2020, they also signal the trends STEPHEN PATTEN $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $5.00 plus tax. shaping 2021. PUBLISHER The opinions expressed by guest columnists are their own and not necessarily those of The Beverage Journal, Inc. The Beverage Journal, Inc. is an affirmative action/equal opportunity corporation. Copyright 2021 the Beverage Journal, Inc. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. 2 BEVERAGE JOURNAL January 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BeverageJournalInc.com

NEW PRODUCTS

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. NEW LONDON LIGHT . HINE COGNAC ‘BONNEUIL’ . OUT EAST HERMITAGE Salcombe Distilling Co.’s nonalcoholic spirit Bottled only in vintages deemed exceptional, The first ever Hermitage wine to be released takes fresh aim at health-conscious drinkers. the Hine’s Bonneuil collection showcases a by an American company (let alone one The aromatic, mixable, 0% ABV liquid features single harvest that exemplifies the essence owned and run by women), Out East’s 2017 a low calorie content, all natural ingredients of Cognac’s Grande Champagne subregion. was produced in collaboration with Rhône chosen for specific nutrients, and bioactive The fourth installment in the Bonneuil producer Cave de Tain. Out East is aiming to compounds that have health benefits. Inspired collection, sourced exclusively from Hine’s modernize the Hermitage category, known by gin-making principles, New London private estate, this Cognac captures Grande for firm intense, age-worthy Syrah-based Light’s juniper, ginger, habanero, and 15 more Champagne’s limestone terroir. Only 18 wines. Out East 2017 Hermitage shows botanicals echo the trading routes through casks (8,100 bottles) of Bonneuil 2010 were classic aromas and flavors of gamey meat, Salcombe and the coast of England in the hand-selected for bottling by cellar master spice, leather, co ee, and black currant. 1800s, when exotic fruits and spices were Eric Forge. 80 proof. carried from England to the Americas.

SRP: $34.99 SRP: $139.99 SRP: $85 us.salcombegin.com hinecognac.com | hotalingandco.com out-east.com

. VOGA PROSECCO ROSÉ . ’MERICAN MULE ‘FIRE MULE’ RTD . TEQUILA KOMOS Voga Italia stands apart from the bubbly crowd The RTD brand dedicated to the ever- Tequila Komos is an ultra-premium añejo with an interpretation of Italy’s newest DOC popular Moscow Mule cocktail continues cristalino tequila from Richard Betts o ering, Prosecco Rosé. The wine displays to add variations. ’Merican Mule has (creator of Sombra Mezcal and Astral all the bright spritiziness of classic Prosecco launched a seasonal Fire Mule expression. Tequila). Tapping into European winemaking underscored by the fruity undertones of Pinot Showing both sweetness and spicy techniques, Komos is aged in French oak Nero. The flavor profile includes lemon, melon, heat, Fire Mule is crafted with bourbon, white wine barrels (instead of bourbon) elderflower, pear, peach, and currants. Fresh ginger beer, and cinnamon (7% ABV). and stored in amphorae after a careful and versatile, Voga Prosecco Rosé o ers a Fire Mule joins the flagship Moscow Mule, purification process leaves it crystal clear fresh new experience for rosé and Prosecco Mexican Mule (tequila), Tropical Mule (rum), and extremely smooth. The result is flavorful lovers alike. Imported by Enovation Brands. Southern Mule (bourbon), and seasonal but delicate; best chilled or with a splash of Pumpkin Spice Mule (vodka). sparkling water. Clay bottles glazed in vivid blue nod toward the Mediterranean.

SRP: $15.99 SRP: $13.99/four-pack (12oz cans) SRP: $119.99 enovationbrands.com | vogaitalia.com mericanmule.com komos.com

4 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BOLD CALIFORNIA WINE Iron Side wines are made from premium grapes grown in acclaimed vineyards across California, and are crafted under the direction of Master Winemaker Ed Killian, who has been creating award-winning wine for nearly three decades.

91 POINTS

IRON SIDE RESERVE PINOT NOIR · 2019

FOR ORDERS AND INFO,FOR CONTACTORDERS AND [email protected] INFO, CONTACT [email protected] IRONSIDECELLARS.COM IRONSIDECELLARS.COM NEW PRODUCTS

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. BLACK VELVET APPLE . DEEP EDDY LIME VODKA . DOS PRIMOS TEQUILA The question of what flavors work in whiskey While not the most famous Texas vodka, Country music star Thomas Rhett and continues to be tested. Black Velvet Apple Deep Eddy has carried the Lone Star iflag his cousin, pecan magnate Je Worn, is betting that apple's appeal extends well proudly and has specialized in authentic are behind ultra-premium Dos Primos. beyond fall. It joins Black Velvet Original, flavored vodkas. Flavor development for Spanish for “Two Cousins,” Dos Primos is a Reserve, and Toasted Caramel, o ering sweet- the brand has entered a new era thanks to blanco made from 100 percent blue agave tart green apple flavor and a warm whisky the original Deep Eddy production facility harvested in Los Altos and Jalisco and finish. Black Velvet launched in 1951 and has in Dripping Springs having been converted distilled by third-generation master distiller grown to become the second largest Canadian into a tasting room—and testing ground for Rodolfo González. It has earthy, herbal notes whisky in the world. The brand was originally new flavors. Lime has emerged, following in on the front palate, followed by floral and set to be known as “Black Label,” but the the citrusy footsteps of popular Lemon. citrus. Packaging accents include embossed inaugural distiller changed the name after he glass, real leather cord, and a fabric label. sampled the first batch. 70 proof.

SRP: $10.99 SRP: $16.99 SRP: $44.99 blackvelvetwhisky.com deepeddyvodka.com dosprimostequila.com

. EDEN CIDERS . SOURCE OF JOY ROSÉ . CRAFTHOUSE RTD COCKTAILS Eden’s Harvest Cider, in 12oz cans, are New from Gérard Bertrand, first major Originally launched in 2013, renowned produced once per year at harvest when the French rosé of the 2020 vintage is arriving bartender Charles Joly’s all-natural, fruit has all its flavor, using 100 percent local stateside and making another powerful small-batch Crafthouse Cocktails are now (Vermont) apples and no added sweeteners statement both about both organic wine and available in seven flavors and multiple or preservatives. The apple varieties are listed Languedoc. Stamped with an image of a formats. In addition to 200ml slim cans right on the can. Peak Bloom, made from five rising spring—a nod to Bertrand’s nature- and 750ml bottles with swing-top closure, varieties, shows lush apple fruit balanced by forward approach—Source of Joy is a blend the brand also o ers its Moscow Mule and light tannin and soft, lingering tartness. Deep of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. It o ers Spicy Margarita in a 1.75L box. Joly has the Cut is made from six types of apple and shows raspberry fruit, floral tones, and medium-full distinction of being the only American to great acid-tannin balance and notes of peach, body, accented by a touch of oak that adds have won Diageo World Class Bartender of black tea, and citrus. Both are 6.2% ABV. structure to the ample fruit character. the Year. Gluten-free; 10.1%-24.6% ABV.

SRP: $39/twelve-pack (12oz cans) SRP: $19.99 SRP: $19.99/750ml; $5.99/200ml; $29.99/3L edenciders.com en.gerard-bertrand.com crafthousecocktails.com

6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com WE MAKE OUR BOURBON CAREFULLY. PLEASE ENJOY IT THAT WAY. Maker’s Mark® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky, 45% Alc./Vol. ©2021 Maker’s Mark Distillery, Inc. Loretto, KY makersmark.com 8 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 in thenew year. are six trends that will have staying power Indeed Brewing inMinneapolis. proof,”saysBandy,Ryandirector forsales recession-proof, it’spandemic-that we’venowproven and is beer that said been always“It’s palms. in beer cold place and of innovative wellspring ways to connect with customers a to adaptation and creativity. Breweries led found months first tilleries thatcreated handsanitizer. dis- to pilsners and IPAs off ship or beer year.last draftdump wereforcedto Some C SIX SIX As we say good riddance to 2020, here 2020, to riddance saygood we As destabilizing economically those But ae ay eattn choices devastating many made breweries stadiums, and rants, restau bars, closed and taprooms shuttered with onfronted PERMANENT FIXTURES ON THE BREWING LANDSCAPE? BREWING ONTHE FIXTURES PERMANENT BEER BREWERIES WERE FORCED TO WERE FORCED ADAPT2020. IN BREWERIES TO WATCH IN2021 WHICH PIVOTS POISED ARE TO BECOME -

INDUSTRY TRENDS INDUSTRY Paused and reduced indoor dining capacity fallowbyclosures. left lines tap in molder wary about taking on draft beer, which can be converted tocansales,” hesays. to see long-term shifts that draft sales will it focuses on off-premise sales. as “You’re going cans, primarily beer, packaged on focusing is brewery The Massachusetts. Framingham, in brewery lager-driven a says Jack Hendler, a founder on-premise,”of Jack’s Abby, time long a for challenged extremely be to going “We’re recover. to years many take could channel this and Drafton-premise,beerupon dependent is 1 BOTTLES? BREWERIES TURN TO TURN CANS AND… BREWERIES BEER STAYSDRAFT FLAT AS etuat ad as r rightfully are bars and Restaurants BY JOSHUA M.BY BERNSTEIN supply grows tighter. cans for many brewers returning to glass as thealuminum to gainbrews contniue share. BELOW: DuClaw isamong than ever. areoptions more important //Nonalcoholic From to paymentABOVE: digital QRcodes systems, a founder ofQueens’ BigaLICe Brewing. and president the beers,”Hurst,Kyle says canned for requests and sales in “serious uptick a caused has City York New in

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAGUNITAS BREWING // ARRYVED // DUCLAW BREWING

BEER TRENDS

The 2021 challenge will be sourcing “You’re going to see enough cans. “Many breweries that were community beer gardens not packaging at all are now canning to open in a big way, and meet consumer demands,” says Shawnee Adelson, the executive director at the that may presage a return Colorado Brewers Guild. This has led to a to lighter pilsner-type 2020 shortage of roughly 10 billion cans, beers that people can Great Lakes Brewing is hip to easy-to-carry 12-packs. according to Ball Corp., the global leader enjoy outside.” in can manufacturing. The shortage should lessen by the end of 2021, when like at all times of day and occasions.” - Garrett Oliver, Brooklyn Brewery can makers will expand capacity. Until Twelve-packs remain the most popular then, breweries are returning to bottles, beer size sold on Drizly, accounting for including Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing 42 percent of overall beer sales in 2020. and Odell Brewing and Baltimore’s DuClaw In particular, sales of canned 12-packs and other shelter structures. Solemn Brewing. It temporarily shifted three core have increased nearly 15 percent through Oath transformed its beer garden into a brands back into bottle format as it deals November, according to Nielsen. wintery wonderland filled with mulch, with an uncertain supply chain. Breweries are betting big on the bulk trees, and geodesic domes. Since June, Smart breweries will stay nimble. “We format in 2021, as well. Industrial Arts, the brewery has invested about $60,000 are continuing with production mostly as in Garnerville, New York, now offers its in outdoor operations, viewing the cold- planned, while leaving the option open to popular hazy IPA Wrench in 12-packs weather move “as much a service to our put certain brands into bottles if the can of cans, and Great Lakes Brewing, in community as it is a lifeboat for our supply starts to dry up,” says director of Cleveland, Ohio, put its cultish Christmas brewery,” says John Barley, the brewery’s brewery operations Chris Wood. Ale in canned 12-packs for the first time president. Though early, the ROI “already this fall. Schlafly Beer, in St. Louis, has OUTDOOR SPACES REMAIN checks out,” he says. expanded its offerings of 12-packs, says 2 ESSENTIAL TO TAPROOM For the foreseeable future, an head of marketing Wil Rogers, catering to SUCCESS “outdoor component will become critical” “consumers wanting to get the most bang to financial success, says Pete Ternes, a for their buck and make a quick purchase As governments closed and reduced founder of Chicago brewpub Bungalow when they’re in the beer aisle. I really capacity of brewpubs and taprooms, By Middle Brow, which has a large patio. think this is something that’s here to stay.” breweries created outdoor seating. This “Who knows when something like this will year, Jester King, a farmhouse brewery happen again, or when COVID will end?” BARTENDERS AND BREWERIES outside Austin, Texas, turned its 165- Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster Garrett 4 GO DIGITAL acre ranch into a nature preserve, and Oliver also sees the importance of the Solemn Oath Brewery in Naperville, outdoors. “I think you’re going to see Breweries and bars have swapped Illinois, retrofitted its parking lot as a community beer gardens open in a big paper for digital menus via scannable QR 4,200-square-foot beer garden. way, and that may presage a return to codes, often linked to contactless ordering Breweries in hot climates responded lighter pilsner-type beers that people can and payment systems. “Who knew that with misters and fans, while breweries enjoy outside for a long time,” Oliver says. in cold climates invested in heaters 12-PACK SALES CONTINUE Arryved Mobile is an app that lets customers start a tab and pay via their phones. Solemn Oath in Illinois optimized its parking lot, turning 3 TO GROW LAKES // ARRYVED // GREAT COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF SOLEMN OATH it into a beer garden. The pandemic caused a widespread consumer shift to buying in bulk—in toilet paper and beer alike. Drinkers increasingly bought 12-packs of beer, returning to trusted lagers and IPAs. People don’t buy 12-packs of new beers for trial and experimentation, says Bandy of Indeed. “If people buy a 12-pack, it’s something they

10 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

BEER TRENDS

the QR code was going to be so popular MORE NONALCOHOLIC AND in 2020?” says Adelson of the Colorado 6 CBD BEVERAGES Brewers Guild. Jeff Smith, a founder of LUKI Brewery This difficult year did not drive in Arvada, Colorado, doesn’t plan to revert everyone to drink too much alcohol. The to paper menus, which can be a pain to nonalcoholic sector thrived during the remove, update, and reprint. “Making it pandemic, “with more consumers second- Craft brewers like Threes Brewing have improved guessing their normal drinking habits,” as easy as possible for your customer to customer loyalty and retention by offering creative consume your product will be the key to subscription options. said Emree Woods, the founder of Atlanta’s success in 2021,” he says. Rightside Brewing. The nonalcoholic beer Technology companies are also in Brooklyn started offering a range of brand launched in December with Citrus developing new digital tools. In June, delivery subscriptions for customers, Wheat, followed by an IPA in January. BeerMenus launched QR Code Menus, sweetening the deal with a 5 percent In particular, nonalcoholic IPAs are since used by more than 800 businesses. discount per case and letting customers poised to break big as some of America’s The menus include beer descriptions, renew every two, four, or six weeks. largest brewers enter the game. Lagunitas which “often increase check size by “The people who already love Brewing just released the pungent IPNA, helping customers order faster,” says CEO Threes have a chance to replenish their while early next year Samuel Adams will Eric Stephens. favorites, while those new to the brand offer Just the Haze, an alcohol-free riff on The Boulder, Colorado, software have a chance to try our beers for the the hazy IPA, and Brooklyn Brewery will company Arryved, has more than doubled first time,” says Joshua Stylman, CEO debut its Special Effects IPA. its customer base of taprooms, brewpubs, and a founder. Expect more nonalcoholic CBD and other craft beverage businesses East Brother Beer Company in beverages, too. Rogue Ales in Newport, during the pandemic, and 100,000-plus Richmond, California, launched its Oregon, offers the Rogue Recreational customers have downloaded its app succinctly named Beer Box in November, a CBD Seltzer Water, and Connecticut Valley that lets customers start a tab and pay monthly shipment of two ($20), four ($40), Brewing makes CBD-infused sparkling via phones. “Pandemic shutdowns and or six ($80) four-packs that lets customers water flavored with hops. Collective Arts regulations have forced brewery owners customize selections. “The subscription Brewing, located outside Toronto, also to embrace technology in a manner that box makes a ton of sense by allowing fans created Collective Projects, a series of many had not previously considered,” says to put their East Brother beer on redial,” cocktail-inspired sparkling teas and juices David Norman, the founder and CEO. says Rob Lightner, a founder. infused with CBD. Feel free to crack a can While breweries must contend at 9 am, says Collective Projects CEO Matt SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES AND with shipping restrictions, laws can Johnston. “We wanted to create really 5 DTC ARE HERE TO STAY change quickly. In 2020, New York innovative drinks that would fit in any part n State temporarily permitted breweries of the day.” The pandemic accelerated the to ship to residents. Going forward, Collective Projects is a sparkling beverage that brewing industry’s nascent trend toward “the reduction or elimination of long- showcases hemp CBD in place of alcohol, and features ecommerce and home delivery, as standing alcohol-related laws in the unique artist collaborations for can designs. breweries such as Brooklyn’s Other Half areas of to-go sales and shipping will and Boston’s Trillium began bringing their continue to improve to the advantage of cultish IPAs to customer’s doorsteps for the consumer,” says Colin Jones, the CEO the first time. and a founder of WeldWerks Brewing, in Since January, Tavour, a platform to Greeley, Colorado. connect craft breweries with consumers, Urban South Brewery, which has has started working with more than 115 locations in Houston and New Orleans, is new breweries, shipping their beer to 47 avoiding the shipping issue completely, states. For Tavour, business has increased launching its 4-Pack of the Month Club around 300 percent since February, and in January as an in-person pick-up subscriptions have more than doubled. subscription. Customers pay $175, then Breweries, too, have seen success with receive an insulated cup and a year of subscription services launched during the monthly four-packs that are redeemed in

pandemic. This summer, Threes Brewing person at an Urban South. COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF THREES BREWING // COLLECTIVE PROJECTS

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SPECIAL RYE FOCUS

According to DISCUS, between 2009 and 2019, rye whiskey sales in the U.S. skyrocketed 1,275%, growing to 1.2 million cases; the surge continued through 2020 and shows no signs of slowing down this year.

PURITY IS KEY FOR NEW ALBERTA CASKSTRENGTH RYE Alberta Distillers has released a new limited-edition to the U.S. market: Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye. Best enjoyed neat, with a drop of water, or on the rocks, the new expression is NEW ‘COALITION,’ NEW TWIST ON FINISHING “Our goal,” says Leonid Yangarber, former CEO of Russian crafted and distilled in Calgary, Alberta Standard Vodka USA, “is to coax even more flavor out of our 100 using prairie rye mash bills and Rocky percent rye whiskey.” He and two industry veteran partners have Mountain water. “We wanted to release a created Coalition Whiskey to explore finishing rye in ex-wine cask strength rye so our whisky fans can barrels from renowned chateaus in Bordeaux—barriques from experience a 100 percent rye whisky in Margaux, Pauillac, and Sauternes, to be precise (90-94 proof, $90). its purest form: straight from the barrel,” Rounding out the concept: the original, base rye is also o ered noted George Teichroeb, general manager. at full barrel strength (108.8 proof, $130), allowing aficionados a Packaged in an eye-catching, faceted chance for side-by-side sampling. glass bottle. 122 proof; SRP $69.95.

TRIPLE PLAY FROM COOPER SPIRITS REACHES WAY BACK PHENOMENAL SPIRITS FOR NEW YO LSB Phenomenal Spirits has Under its Lock, Stock & Barrel label, The released RY3 Whiskey, the Cooper Spirits Company has released the craft spirits company’s third only U.S.-made 20-year-old rye whiskey ultra-premium launch in currently on the market. Hand-selected by the U.S. in 2020. Concept- late spirits luminary and third-generation driven, RY3 is a distinct distiller Robert J. Cooper in Canada, this blend of three whiskeys, 20YO was made from a rare mash bill of 100 three carefully handpicked percent rye grain in copper pot stills, and mash-bills, and three then aged in cold weather in newly charred— distinctive aged statements. not toasted—American oak barrels. Charred The culmination is finished barrels run the risk of over-oaking whiskey in vintage rum casks. 100 over time. Lock, Stock & Barrel 20-Year proof, SRP $54.99. avoids this result thanks to the cold climate, modest (#3.5) char, and lack of toasting. 112 proof, SRP $389

CATOCTIN CREEK ADDS A TOUCH OF VERY HEAVY METAL WITH 'RAGNARÖK' Catoctin Creek Distilling Co. of quiet Purcellville, Virginia, has a very loud announcement: it is teaming with monster metal rock band GWAR for “the SICKEST rye whisky release of 2021.” Launching in February, Catoctin Creek Ragnarök Rye is a 92-proof rye whiskey aged in charred new white oak, then sugar maple and cherrywood. The elaborate barrel treatment seems in tune with GWAR, known for its elaborate and transgressive theatrical production. Presumably speaking directly to GWAR fans, The Berserker Blothar of GWAR declared, “Ahh, such a powerful spirit. A delicious sacrament to drink in preparation for battle, and it’ll get you really, really crazy.” 92 proof, SRP $99.

14 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com Turning inventory. And heads. That’s Proof.

Proof TM BY SOUTHERN GLAZER’S

Visit about.sgproof.com to find out more WHISKEY: WHAT‘S NEW

JEFFERSON’S ROLLS OUT THE SINGLE BARREL The small-batch specialists at Je erson’s have launched their first 100 proof single barrel. Je erson’s Reserve Single Barrel 100 Proof was born of brand founder Trey Zoeller’s desire to o er a bigger, more robust iteration of Reserve, the quintessential bourbon in the brand’s portfolio. The new expression’s higher proof enhances the Reserve experience without burying the secondary flavors. SRP $59.99

BOOKER’S BATCH HEADS TO THE GRIDIRON CASCADE HOLLOW’S LATEST ‘MOON’ HAS RISEN The latest Booker’s Batch 2020-03—also Cascade Hollow Distilling Co. has released Edition No. 2 of its known as the “Pigskin Batch”—is a nod to 6th Cascade Moon series; this one directly honors the heritage of the Generation Master Distiller Booker Noe’s love George A. Dickel & Co. brand. The liquid for this second release was of American football, which eventually became taken from a small batch blend curated around the first barrel of a whole family a air. (Once a player—both Tennessee Whisky filled after the distillery returned from shutdown in tackle and kicker—he was quick for his size, 2003. The unique sandblasted ceramic bottle is sourced from one of standing 6 feet 4 inches tall and weighing few producers in the world, and the labels are hand-printed using a close to 300 pounds.) Like all batches of 130-year-old press. 90 proof, SRP $249.99. Booker’s Bourbon, Booker’s “Pigskin Batch” was selected by 7th generation master distiller Fred Noe to ensure it upholds the standards that his dad set more than 30 years ago. Uncut and unfiltered; best neat, over ice, or with a few drops or water. 127.3 proofSRP $89.99.

NO REST FOR THE BLENDERS AT DEWAR’S Meanwhile, over in Scotland, the latest iteration of Dewar’s cask finished blended Scotch whisky series is an 8 Year Old dubbed “Portuguese Smooth.” Scotland meets Portugal in a bottle when double aged, premium 8-year-old Scotch whisky is finished NEW BOTTLE OF WHISKEY ON THE WALL in Portuguese ruby port casks. The o icial kicko The Ezra Brooks family of whiskeys keeps growing. The most recent for the new expression included a virtual cocktail addition is Ezra Brooks 99, an oak-barrel-aged Kentucky straight and culinary class featuring Dewar’s own master bourbon elevated to 99 proof. Charcoal filtered for a mellow finish, blender, Stephanie MacLeod, alongside George the new Ezra Brooks 99 features the same spicy, ryed-bourbon- Mendes, previously head chef at Portuguese mash-bill taste fans exxpect, but with an enhanced flavor profile hotspot Aldea. 80 proof, SRP $21.99. delivered by the higher proof. SRP $24.99

16 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com PROSECCO ROSÉ DOC

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CLYDE TAVERN COURTESY OF JEFFREY MORGENTHALER / BITTER & TWISTED COURTESY BITTER & TWISTED / LAWBIRD COURTESY LAWBIRD atastrophic may risk understatement as a summary of COVID- “I’m excited to get 19’s impact on the bar industry. Like restaurants, many bars have through this, but I’ve shuttered permanently; in September, the National Restaurant stopped guessing when C Association forecasted 100,000 closures in 2020, and colder that will be.” weather will doubtless bring many more permanent closures as further – Greg Boehm, The Cabinet, Katana restrictions are placed on establishments, causing revenues to dip and Kitten, Mace, and Boilermaker expenses to pile up.

Some bars have reopened, only to be I spoke with bar operators from across forced to close again. Many still haven’t the country to find out what’s working and like Fort Defiance in Brooklyn and Canon been permitted to open their doors; states which strategies they’ve found effective. in Seattle are among the many other bars like Connecticut and Maine have kept bars that have converted to a grocery or mer- closed since March. Most bars currently Pivoting to a Mercantile Model cantile model. open in the U.S. are subject to reduced A recent addition to the Columbus, Ohio, While Lawbird no longer looks like a capacity limits, a significant hurdle when bar scene, Lawbird opened just four traditional bar, the couple worked hard many business models are based on filling months before the March shutdown. Hus- to deliver an environment of hospitality, every seat at peak times. band-and-wife co-owners Annie Williams even as a shop. “We’ve created a more Because elbow-to-elbow conviviality Pierce and Luke Pierce were initially un- tactile experience,” notes Luke. “We tried makes bars an especially dangerous envi- sure of what to do after closing. But when to mirror the type of interactions we ronment for potential virus transmission, Ohio legalized to-go cocktails, they turned might have had in the bar before.” reopening requires a slew of expensive the bar in a completely new direction— The duo says this model is financially adaptations: air ionization and filtration selling snacks, glassware, and produce. sustainable for the foreseeable future, systems, plexiglass dividers, cleaning and “Imagine a wine shop - and a Japanese and they plan to reassess sometime in sanitizing, and redesigning for touchless 7-Eleven had a baby,” the couple describes, 2021. They’re even considering opening an transactions. speaking of Lawbird’s new incarnation. additional “satellite” shop across town. I am intimately familiar with the Seating areas have now become a produc- struggles bar owners have been facing tion space, where the owners and a skel- Adding or Improving since March; my bar Little Jumbo in eton crew batch and bottle up to 500 cock- Food Options Asheville, North Carolina, has not been tails at a time. They aren’t the only ones Many bar owners don’t relish the idea of allowed to serve a drink since March 15, to adopt this model; high-profile venues running a food program. With a plethora 2020, and we don’t foresee being able to reopen for many months. For me and many others, this has been a devastating year, but also a re- minder of why we fell in love with bar ownership in the first place—it requires a diverse skill set, creativity, and the ability to solve a rotating series of unique problems.

OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE: Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon, became Clyde Tavern, with sanitizer and partitioned ordering menus part of the new normal. // Bitter & Twisted in Phoenix. // Annie Williams Pierce of Lawbird holding one of the bar's bottled cocktails. // RIGHT: A rainbow of

CLYDE TAVERN COURTESY OF JEFFREY MORGENTHALER / BITTER TAVERN & TWISTED COURTESY BITTERCLYDE & TWISTED / LAWBIRD COURTESY LAWBIRD to-go cocktail offerings from Lawbird. “At this point, none of us a year before the pandemic, which has ABOVE: Touch-screen ordering at Clyde Tavern // Enhanced food options at The Crunkleton in North Carolina. can think about profits— proved incredibly valuable this past year. we can only think about After shifting to a to-go only model by state mandate, food became the majority Greg Boehm, who owns The Cabinet, minimizing risk.” of sales—a trend that has continued even Katana Kitten, Mace, and Boilermaker in with limited dine-in seating. New York City (his award-winning Existing – Dennis Kiingti, Hamlet & Ghost “High-end food [which we focused Conditions closed during the pandemic), on pre-pandemic] didn’t work to-go,” found traction with local cocktail classes— says Dennis Kiingati, the bar’s co-owner. both virtual and in-person. “Online tastings “Family-style offerings, burgers—that is have been surprisingly successful,” says what’s working.” To-go cocktails initially Boehm, who distributes pre-portioned of perishables, expensive equipment, and sold well but dropped off with warmer mezcal flights to patrons via The Cabinet substantial labor requirements, kitchens summer weather. Kiingati is hoping prior to a guided Zoom tasting. can easily squander hard-won profits. But those sales will pick up again as winter For socially-distanced curbside adding or upgrading kitchens has been a temperatures make outdoor seating less classes, the $50 ticket price includes bar strategy for survival for many bars, and a desirable. tools attendees get to take home (Boehm requirement for reopening in many states. also owns the barware company Cocktail In North Carolina, Gary Crunkleton’s The New Hospitality: Party Kingdom). These initiatives, in addition eponymous Chapel Hill bar The Crunkleton Packages and Cocktail Classes to expanded sidewalk seating and to-go has been closed by state mandate for over Publicans have also adapted to no longer cocktails, have kept the company’s four eight months. North Carolina began al- being able to offer many of the hallmarks remaining bars open with reduced staff. lowing bars to open in October for outdoor of a good bar experience in a traditional seating only, which The Crunkleton doesn’t bar setting. “We’re in the hospitality Maximizing To-Go Sales have. During the bar’s closure, Crunkleton industry, and it’s really difficult to be and Minimizing Overhead has undertaken a full kitchen buildout at a hospitable right now, but we’re still doing Most bar owners we spoke to stressed cost of tens of thousands of dollars. it,” says Ivy Mix, a co-owner of Leyenda how essential to-go cocktails sales have “I always wanted the experience to in Brooklyn. been—many agree their doors would’ve be more spirits-forward, but adding food Mix and others have found new ways to already closed without them. Currently, just makes sense,” says Crunkleton. His connect with their customers. In addition 33 states allow bars to sell cocktails to- permanent, upscale food menu will enable to sidewalk tables and to-go cocktails, go, with several extending that allowance him to achieve higher check averages, and Leyenda launched party packages in for years, and even permanently. While justify the investment he believes. October, where they deliver the drinks, ice, sales are generally not enough to make Hamlet & Ghost, a popular Saratoga glassware, even decorations to a home or up for lost revenue, to-go cocktails can Springs, New York, hangout, had already outdoor gathering, then swing by the next help bars cover some operational costs. expanded its kitchen program just over

day to pick up their party components. At Leyenda, Mix saw batched drinks as COURTESY OF JEFFREY MORGENTHALER / THE CRUNKLETON CINDY BY TAVERN SELLARS CLYDE ©2021 TAUB FAMILY SELECTIONS, BOCA RATON, FL for ﬂ their agship, BrutRéserve. traditionthe ofexcellence, achieving top accolades Roques-Boizel, CEO 6thgeneration, and continues Avenuethe deChampagne, inÉpernay. Florent award-winning maisonon Champagnes attheir Boizel the familySince hascrafted 1834, elegant, INDUSTRY FOCUS

“It’s made me rethink owners have no timeline for when, or if, ABOVE: Themed party packs offered at Leyenda in Brooklyn. // Dining outside, as seen here at Clyde Tavern, has cocktail making, and the reduced staff positions will return. become vital for some bars. how we’ll do it in the Reimagining a future. Efficiency is even More Efficient Future “I’m excited to get through this,” adds more important.” Bar owners fighting to survive are taking Boehm, “but I’ve stopped guessing when each day as it comes. “At this point, that will be.” – Ivy Mix, Leyenda none of us can think about profits—we Even as their neighboring establish- can only think about minimizing risk,” ments shutter, many bar owners are taking says Kiingati. “Minimizing the risk of an optimistic view of their realities, look- employees getting sick, the risk of having ing for opportunities to improve internal an opportunity to utilize spirits that to shut down again, the risk of running systems or expand new facets of their busi- had languished in storage, which helped out of money.” He plans to approach the nesses. “It’s made me rethink cocktail mak- improve the bottom line. business in two-week increments for the ing, and how we’ll do it in the future,” says Nearly all bars have reduced staff. foreseeable future. Mix. “Efficiency is even more important.” Portland, Oregon’s Clyde Common, one Others have sought and received per- of the vanguard establishments of the mission to keep expanded outdoor seating cocktail resurgence, previously had 40 areas permanently, thanks to municipal employees; the staff now totals seven changes. The Lawbird duo even launched a people after an 80 percent drop in revenue weekend breakfast grab-and-go from the due to the pandemic. What was a full- bar’s side door; dubbed Boxwood Biscuits, service, sit-down, fairly upscale tavern it has become so popular that the Pierc- food program has morphed into a selection es are considering finding a standalone of easily packaged, grab-and-go fare, space for the concept. which has cut costs substantially. “For “We’re bar owners, we’re all stupid the foreseeable future, true table service optimists,” says Portland’s Tilden. just doesn’t make sense, financially,” says This pandemic has starkly illuminated owner Nate Tilden. that there is no substitute for a convivial Four of Tilden’s 11 restaurants and gathering spot, and sadly, there will be bars have permanently closed since fewer bars on the other side of this. I regu- the beginning of 2020, and he feels the larly sit in my empty, dust-blanketed bar, industry’s entire model has been upended. and think with anticipation about the days “Having the smallest labor and overhead when I’ll get to see smiling faces coming footprint possible,” he says, “and if you can in the door again. And when those days ar- figure out how to break even, or maybe rive, we hope you go out to your favorite bar and raise a glass. We're looking for- be slightly profitable, that’s the model Chall Gray, bartender, bar owner, and author of this article, ward to it. ■ of success.” The vast majority of these at his bar, Little Jumbo, in Asheville. COURTESY OF JEFFREY HARTY MORGENTHALER / LITTLE JUMBO TAVERN LEYENDA LYNNE BY COURTESY OF IVY MIX / CLYDE B:8.75" T:8.25" S:7.75"

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BAREFOOT STAYS SWEET WITH FRUITSCATO

THE FRUIT-FLAVORED, MOSCATO-BASED LINE IS BOOMING—AND ADDING FLAVORS FOR 2021

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

mericans talk dry but drink sweet. There is no end in sight, either: Sales Ready for 2021: The three new Fruitscato flavors will It’s been proven time and again of sweet wines have grown faster than be launched on a staggered basis. Blueberry is already available in Indiana and soon will be in other states in in all beverage categories. In traditional wines during the COVID-19 the Midwest and Northeast. Mango arrives in February, fact, sweet wines, aggregated pandemic, says Anna Bell, VP Market- followed by Pineapple in June. across types, represent the third largest ing, amounting to “a massive category in table wine category in the U.S. today— terms of size and growth.” right behind Chardonnay and Cabernet fuse the Fruitscato wines with just enough Sauvignon, according to the makers of HOT WHERE IT COUNTS: CO2 to lift the fruit, and provide a lively Barefoot wines. ENTRY LEVEL mid-palate and perfect balance when Perhaps more important, Barefoot— The team behind Fruitscato realized that, served chilled.” and parent company E. & J. Gallo—have just as sweet Lambrusco, Liebfraumilch, Fruitscato’s alcohol by volume is 7.5 discovered that fruit-flavored sweet and Sangria were once wine entry points percent, and while the wines are percep- wines are also welcome, especially for for legal age drinkers, Fruitscato’s sweet- tibly sweet, they are less so than many the new-to-wine consumer. Introduced fruit flavors pack tremendous appeal for Italian Moscato d’Asti expressions. Line- in 2018, featuring best-seller Peach along drinkers new to any sort of wine. One in priced with the other Barefoot bottles, with Apple, Strawberry, and Watermelon, four Fruitscato buyers are newbies, ac- there will be extensive promotion—col- Barefoot’s Moscato-based Fruitscato grew cording to Bell. “At Barefoot we pride orful in-store displays, social media cam- over 600% in 2020, according to IRI data. ourselves in welcoming everyone into the paigns, Youtube videos, ads on Hulu, bill- As a result, in 2021 Barefoot will wine category with a variety of options boards, and some localized media. There roll out three new ex- and approachable flavor profiles,” says will also be Spanish language promotion, pressions of the booming Bell. “We make more ‘first wine’ than most with Spanish back labels included on the spinoff line: Blueberry, wineries make wine.” pineapple and mango extensions. Mango, and Pineapple. Fruitscato’s target consumer is the Some reluctant merchants say their younger legal age drinker unfamiliar stores aren’t suitable for sweet wines, or with wine and often a bit intimidated that carrying Moscatos serves them well. by the category, who may think of wine Barefoot counters that stores offering in general as fancy and too expensive. both Moscato and Fruitscato sell 12 per- Keeping the brand’s flavor messaging su- cent more Moscato. Consequently, the per clear, each expression showcases its brand recommends Fruitscato be displayed fruit-based identity graphically on the alongside the rest of the Barefoot line. front label. Sage advice from America’s sweet wine While fruit-flavored wines are viewed experts. Indeed, if Barefoot has proven as artificial by some, Barefoot avoids the anything, it’s that every wine market is critique, says winemaker Jen Wall. “We ac- not just potentially a sweet wine market— tually blend the natural fruit flavors into it already is. And the next big thing for the wine right before bottling to ensure sweet-toothed American wine drinkers the fruit is fresh and vibrant,” says Wall. may well be not just “fruit forward,” but Fruitscato could not be much simpler: natural fruit n “Another interesting point is that we in- actually fruit-flavored. COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF BAREFOOT WINES flavors are blended into a Moscato wine base right before bottling, and the fruit is displayed on the label. ® BAREFOOT TM FRUITSCATO

OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS FOR ALENTEJO

AMERICA GOT THIRSTIER FOR THIS PORTUGUESE REGION’S WINES IN 2020. OUR PANEL EXPLORES THE TREND

BY W. R. TISH

s coronavirus continues to stitch miliar to most consumers, can be a poten- new patterns into the fabric of con- tial selling point rather than a handicap as sumer behavior, one dichotomy Americans increasingly seek out diversity that deserves closer attention is and authenticity. TJ Douglas, proprietor whether American wine drinkers are turn- of Urban Grape in Boston, said, “We use The name Alentejo derives originally from its location, ing toward “comfort” labels or using their a progressive scale to organize our wines, south of the Tejo River, which new normal to branch out. For instance, so it's really fun to bring in some of these flows roughly east-west across despite the challenges of 2020, exports indigenous varieties and show how they’re Portugal; the region is about the same size as the Massachusetts. from the Alentejo region of Portugal were very similar to, say, Nebbiolo, or a Rhône up double-digits in both volume and value Syrah, when it just happens to be Alicante over 2019, according to Nielsen. Bouschet, or something else. It gives them gravitate that way. And now we’re seeing To dig deeper into this trend, in De- a little bit of education without shoving such growth.” cember, Beverage Media Group convened information down their throat and it re- Because Alentejo has so many grape a panel of top on- and off-premise retail ally expands their perception.” varieties, both indigenous and interna- buyers to gauge how Alentejo’s recent suc- Jen Ziskin, who has two locations in tional, Debbie Zachareas, owner of Ferry cess could represent an important shift in Boston, concurred. She first opened the Plaza Wine Merchant in San Francisco, the U.S. market. restaurant La Morra featuring an Italian- explained, “You have more of a palette to heavy list; at the event space and shop choose from when talking to consumers,” INDIGENOUS GRAPES: CATCH-22 Heritage of Sherborn, she discovered she said. “If you’re trying to sell a wine that OR SECRET WEAPON? that the sidestep from Italian to Portu- people are going to identify with, you can As with Portuguese wines in general, a guese wines was especially fruitful. “Our come up with examples that are similar to wide array of native grapes—from Alican- customers come looking to us to guide something that they may know, and at the te Bouschet to Antão Vaz and beyond— them,” Ziskin recalled. “Once I started same time you can give them something form the foundation of the wine from bringing in all these wines from Portu- unique that isn't so far off the spectrum Alentejo. This unique array, while unfa- gal and other countries, they would then that they can't identify with.” Zachareas is PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHY OF ALENTEJO PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ALENTEJO tion, againledby indigenous varieties, tion isred, thewhites are earningatten shortened version ofCalifornia.” said Douglas.“Ikindoflookatitaslike a all these different styles as well as grapes,” close totheriver, more inland,you have it from thesouthwhere they’re getting “I love the variety, whether you’re getting should beembraced, notshiedaway from. sity extends from grapes tostyles—and can tasteitbefore they commit.” a pricepointislittlebitlower andthey experiment, becausethecommitmenton that's where alotofpeopleare willingto and Beasts&BottlesinBrooklyn. “Ithink Alex LaPratt, apartner atAtrium DUMBO Alentejo inby-the-glass lists,believes it “Ab Fab.” as partofher store’s wineclubby calling recounted sellinga$40AlicanteBouschet come any fear ofstrange grape names;she a firmbeliever thatconsumers canover produce an inky red wine. produce aninky red wine. Alicante Bouschet isnicknamed Bouschet n Alicante Portugal. of names parts other inother go by the grapes of are afew which Arinto just Tourigaareas. Trincadeira, Nacional, and are known indifferent different names by that grape frequently varieties Portuguese endearingtruth inconvenient is yet n An freshness. lemon-lime offers while Arinto VazAntão star, white isthe full-bodied grapes; white perfumed isfrom production wine Alentejo of n Asurprising one-fifth restaurants. and cafés and the Lisbon darlings of at large, the Portuguese winepreferred of are the blends, often reds, n Alentejo the world. in grapes any persquare mileof country native of hasPortugal density the highest With indigenousvarieties, over250 de Escrever de And while mostofAlentejo’s produc Douglas addedthatAlentejo’s diver There istremendous opportunity for EYE ON GRAPES ON EYE (writing ink) for its ability to ability its for (writing ink) Tinta Tinta - - - - you get intheir flavor profile. I always talk the over-delivery ofthewines,andwhat Ziskin explained, “Ialways think about ue, butinrelative, not absolute,terms. ceptional value.” responsibility totheenvironment withex- that Alentejoispairingsustainability and salient factor. “Ithinkthegreatest thingis but green-ness aloneisrarely themost ner inthatmovement asawhole,” hesaid, tugal, Idothinkthatthey are front-run point. “When we are speakingaboutPor sation, sustainability canbecomeaselling LaPratt addedthat, inaspecificconver it is really important,” Ziskin shared. I don’t thinkit’s theendall,butIdothink Alentejo vineyard plantings. ies strong, accountingfor closetohalfof day, voluntary membership is425winer award. WASP was establishedin2014;to- Sustainability Award, aprestigious juried was named2020’s recipient oftheAmorim of AlentejoSustainability Program (WASP) than mostwineregions. Alentejo’s Wines ing many aspectsofclimatechange faster tugal hasbeenexperiencing andconfront- products inmany categories. Inwine,Por Consumers are seekingout“greener” VALUE ITSELF VALUETHE OF‘GREEN’—AND OF a white Burg rightfrom Beaune,” hesaid. Menetou-Salon, or Savignan from Jura, or that canbe,stylistically, anything from a gled out.There are singlevarietalwhites blending groups like Arintocanbesin noted Douglas.“Someofthesetraditional Others echoedtheimportanceofval The questionis:canthisimpactsales? ------and experimenting.” n of young producers focusingonquality recently,” he asserted. “We’re seeinga lot exciting stuff has really happenedfairly of Alentejoislikely yet to come:“All the Alicante Bouschet,andAragonez are.” reinforcing thegrapes, what Touriga, and critically important.It helps constantly understand what they’re drinkingisreally listing them onlabels.“Getting people to in emphasizingindigenous varietiesand eas praised producers for beingproactive tugal, isaproclivity for blending.Zachar for Alentejo, as with many parts of Por tional style.’” unique expression andnotan‘interna “stay truetothevarietiesandgive usmore Zachareas hopedthatproducers would tage—hard-to-pronounce namesandall. grapes, andtheir still-evolving wineheri ing committedtoterroir expression, their was support for Alentejo producers stay of allthatthebuyers panelhadtoshare or not,becauseyou can.” right andthentalkaboutcanyou afford it and how it’s gonna go great withyour food “Talk abouthow thisisagreat philosophy last thingtotalkabout,” Douglasreasoned. getting itfor $20.’” Burgundy, it would cost $60—here you’re about thatcomparison:‘Ifitwere from Alex LaPratt, TJAlex JenZiskin, Zachareas Debbie Douglas, panel: The Roundtable And LaPratt pointed out that thebest Another area ofauthenticdistinction Perhaps themostimportantmessage “Maybe thevalueindollar isthe

- - - - - LIGHT WHISKEY’S COMEBACK? DISTILLERS REDISCOVER THIS HIGH-PROOF, LIGHT-COLORED—AND LONG FORGOTTEN—CATEGORY AS A BLANK CANVAS OF OPPORTUNITY

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

f some distillers have their way, another obscure spirit in today’s market where intense flavors category is heading for a comeback. Light whiskey, a category reign and whiskey drinkers no longer in created in 1968, was an attempt by American distillers to need of an accessible on ramp? I turn back the tide of vodka and imported whiskeys which One obvious appeal is for new distillers had decimated domestic sales. It never made much of a dent in drinking looking to get product to market quickly while other stocks mature, especially since consciousness and faded like many other 1960s fads. the moonshine bubble seems to have burst. Yet the intrigue for others, including But the recent introduction of a the portfolio (on the label, they are simply the Taubs, is an availability of older light super-premium entrant overseen by spirit called “American Whiskey”). whiskey stocks. With aged bourbon and guru Paul Pacult is bringing the spotlight Designed to be light in flavor and rye stocks so picked over, the appeal of back on the category. Launched by Marc color—distilled up to 190 proof and aged in long-aged, interesting liquid means the and Jake Taub, two scions of the family- either used oak barrels or uncharred new light whiskey offers unique opportunity. owned importer Palm Bay and Taub ones—light whiskey has been described by Family Selections, Jacob’s Pardon entered its current producers as a new entry point the market in October, 2020, with two to whiskey, a way station between vodka ABOVE: At La Crosse Distilling Co., the idea to make a light whiskey came after an application to make a 15-year-old single barrel light whiskeys in and bourbon, or both. But what’s the point "white rye" was turned down by TTB. COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS OF LA CROSSE DISTILLING CO. CAPTIVATING PACKAGE Entices consumers at point of sale QUALITY IN BOTTLE Consistent award winner since launch OUTSTANDING PERFORMANCE Exponential dollar and unit sales growth* Create your #gemmamoment

*Source: IRI, 52 wks ending 4/14/2020 CATEGORY FOCUS

From Blending Spirit to Sipper Key to light whiskey: The range is the potential for light whiskey.” Light whiskey’s primary use has long been high proof and low level This same desire to showcase a grain- blending, though the 14-plus year old of congeners and esters forward flavor profile is also what drove barrels were mostly a result of blended Matthias Kozuba of Kozuba and Sons whiskey’s decline in demand, says David offer a blank canvas ripe Distillery in St. Petersburg, Florida, to Dykstra, vice president of alcohol sales and for the influence of long enter the category. “We wanted to have marketing of Lawrenceburg, Inndiana- aging in barrel. the product with a lighter flavor profile based MGP Ingredients. that would be an easy sipping whiskey. We “There’s been an uptick in interest in were aiming for something flavor-wise this category because light whiskey took between vodka and whiskey,” he explains. a backseat to aged whiskey for several years,” says Dykstra. “Now, as stocks of A Blank Canvas Category Tom Buchsbaum, co-founder, Austin aged product have tightened, we’re seeing Craft Spirits Company, for example, The light whiskey category most closely more interest in light whiskeys and have prefers fewer barrel notes in his Austin mirrors the traditional Polish spirit that noticed increased light whiskey produc- 101. “I’ve heard many people say that the Kozuba family was aiming to create. tion at some craft distillers.” two-thirds of the bourbon and rye flavor When still operating a facility in Poland,

Pacult, who selected the light whiskey / COURTESY AND SONS OF KOZUBA COURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS PARDON OF JACOBS profile comes from the barrel. We wanted the Kozubas (father Zbigniew and brother single barrels (the third Jacob’s Pardon is a two-thirds of our flavor to be from the blend of light and Tennessee whiskey), says essence of our grains and only one-third the high proof and low level of congeners or less to come from barrels that we use, and esters offer a blank canvas ripe for the something that was more like the essence influence of long aging in barrel. of the grain, sort of like an eau-de-vie.” “Because it is so high in alcohol, so Making a light whiskey wasn’t Austin’s pure, what it picks up from the wood goal, but the legal definition fit for the over a period of 15 years is astounding,” spirit with a high winter wheat mash bill he describes. in addition to Texas-sourced corn and While Jacob’s Pardon and Utah distiller malted barley. “Our intent was to make a High West bottled long-aged lights (in very different kind of grain spirit. There’s 2016, High West offered an MGP-sourced a big range here between what one would 14 year old and in 2018 one that had been consider bourbon and vodka and in that finished more than two years longer in bourbon barrels), others are looking for attributes that briefly aged light whiskeys ABOVE: Jake and Marc Taub with a bottle of Jacob's Pardon. can offer. // RIGHT: Kozuba and Sons Distillery barrels.

CATEGORY FOCUS

Jakub) made a Polish-Lithuanian style malted rye whiskey called starka. They ran into TTB label- ing issues when trying to import, but when moving their operation to Florida, they tweaked the recipe to higher proof and aged in used barrels for up to a year. Called Starkus Light Whiskey, the low tannin spirit “still carries the vanilla note, some of the subtle oaky and caramel notes,” Kozuba says. “We consider it a perfect proposition for those

who are just beginning their journey in whiskeys may be, the market may be “We wanted two-thirds the world of whiskey.” limited as long as makers emphasize of our flavor to be from “light” on the label, Pacult says, al- the essence of our Rye in a Different Light though he believes the whiskey aficio- grains and only one- In Wisconsin, the folks at La Crosse Distill- nado may turn out to be just as inter- ing stumbled onto the idea, says cofounder ested as neophytes, as various distillers third or less to come Chad Staehly, who with partner Nick Web- play with base ingredients and aging from barrels...sort of like ber focuses on the region’s organic ingre- possibilities and reveal the potential an eau-de-vie.” dients. In addition to making vodka and the category has for complexity. That at gin, as their whiskeys aged they wanted to least is the hope of these new advocates – Tom Buchsbaum, Austin Craft Spirits bottle a white rye, but were turned down of the light. ■ by the TTB. Then they happened upon the description for light whiskey. “So we said, ‘Let’s go with this so we have something whiskey-based that would get us started,’” Staehly recalls. “Then we started playing with how long we were going to let it sit in these barrels, experimenting with used barrels and lightly toasted barrels, and we now kind of have a four-barrel rotation.” The result is La Crosse High Rye Light Whiskey. “We found that this was kind of like a gateway spirit. For people who weren’t whiskey and bourbon drinkers, this was kind of a pivot for them.” As intriguing and accessible as light

ABOVE: At Kozuba and Sons Distillery in Florida: Jakub, Zbigniew, and Mattias Kozuba. // LEFT: Austin Light Whiskey's mash bill is high in winter wheat, with Texas-

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www.lanternawines.com For More Information: Email: [email protected] or [email protected]

www.obcwines.com @obcwines @oldbridgecellars @old_bridge PARTY TIME LIQUORS' JASKINDER GILL PART OF THE COMMUNITY AND PROUDLY HELPING IT

BY TEDDY DURGIN askinder Gill is an American success story. After coming to this country from India, he became active J in the restaurant business and worked within the industry for the next 25 years. In 2016, Neal Dicken and his father were start when responding. God gives us the looking to sell Party Time Liquors in Mount Rainier. wisdom, though, and that's why it was very important to get in contact with lo- Gill leapt at the opportunity. cal leaders. It was good to find them so excited for our help." Upon taking ownership of Party Time, pressive community outreach effort. Community service is very big with Gill immediately adopted an operat- "COVID-19 began really affect- Gill. His store services a largely blue col- ing philosophy that he had embraced ing people in our business back in early lar clientele with affordable prices, money throughout his years in hospitality, the March," he recalled. "Everybody got order service, an ATM machine with low same one shared by the previous owner- scared. We didn't know what to do. I fees, and more. At the same time, he ship of Party Time. decided to talk to two of my neighbor- and his staff have realized the changing "One thing I want to always make ing stores and I said, 'This is the time we taste profiles of younger consumers, who sure of is that we are fair to people," Gill need to do something for our communi- are accounting for an increasingly larger said, during a recent interview with the ty.' They agreed. We decided to call four share of Party Time's customer base. Beverage Journal. "Be honest with your of the mayors closest to our city of Mount "We recently remodeled the store," customers and with your employees. And Rainier [including Brentwood and Colmar he noted. "The new drinkers are very if you do that, I think you will have a lot Manor]. We told them we wanted to help different from the Baby Boomers, so we of success. When we bought this store in as much as we can. They were very ex- now offer more craft beers and high-end 2016, many of the [staff] had been there cited and assigned their police chiefs to liquors. We've reorganized the whole for 20-some years. They're still with us talk to us directly and figure how to de- store to appeal to our current customers, now. The most recent hire we've had was liver various products to our community. but also to make sure we don't lose future two years ago. People stick with us." Everybody was very helpful." customers." Party Time Liquors has been in busi- Together, Gill and his colleagues Perhaps the biggest source of assis- ness since 1976. But the store had never donated everything from thousands of tance for Gill and his business throughout seen a year like 2020. Gill decided early masks to gallons of hand sanitizer. The COVID-19 has been the Maryland State in the crisis to meet the challenges of the police departments helped in the distri- Licensed Beverage Association. "The as- pandemic head on, even recruiting some bution. Gill remarked, "When crisis oc- sociation keeps us up on all of the issues," of his competitors to join him in an im- curs, people often don't know where to

34 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2021 www.BeverageJournalInc.com he said, "especially with the big chains trying to come in and eliminate the small businesses. MSLBA has been standing in their way for years, and I have no doubt they will continue to work hard so that small businesses will be taken care of." Gill has been so moved by the association's efforts that he became a County Director for MSLBA. "It was important to not just be a name member, but to also do something," he explained. "We have recruited many new members. We've gone store to store to make sure everyone is aware of the MSLBA and how it's the key to our success for the future." Looking to the future, Gill says he is mostly hopeful heading into 2021. He feels like his county and industry have been through the worst of it, and that the pieces are in place for an eventual return to normalcy. He concluded, "I think the outlook is good. I'm feeling positive that the new President is mature enough to take us in the right direction. The recov- ery is going to happen. I've been in this The Party Time Team: owner Jaskinder Gill (center) country from India for 35 years now. Every with managers Neil Dicken (left) and Mohamad Chavoshi. time something bad has happened, people have always gotten together to figure things out." n

AreAre You You a a Member Member of of MSLBA, MSLBA, MarylandAre StateAre You YouLicen a aMember Membersed Beverage of of MSLBA, MSLBA, Association ? MarylandMaryland State State Licen Licen sedsed BeverageBeverage Association Association? ?

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representation. Message from ______of ______: Jaskinder Gill of Party Time Liquors Message from ______of ______: Message from“The ______association keeps us up of ______on all of the issues ... especially with the: big chains

Message fromtrying ______to come in and eliminate of ______the small businesses. MSLBA has been: standing

MSLBA—inRepresenting their way forAlcohol years, Beverage andMSLBA I LicenseesNewhave Logos no 050703.qxd sincedoubt 1950 5/10/2003 they will 7:50 continueAM Page 1 to work hard so that small businesses will be taken care of.”

MSLBAMSLBA——RepresentingRepresenting Alcohol Alcohol Beverage Beverage Licensees Licensees since since 1950 1950 Contact MSLBA for Membership Information: MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950 Phone: (410) 871-1377 E-Mail: [email protected]

Contact MSLBAVisit usfor on theMembership web at www.mslba.org Information: Contact MSLBA for Membership Information: Phone:Contact (410) MSLBA 871-1377 forE-Mail: Membership [email protected] Information: Phone: (410) 871-1377 E-Mail: [email protected] Phone: (410)Visit 871 us- 1377on the E web-Mail: at www.mslba.org [email protected] Visit us on the web at www.mslba.org Visit us on the web at www.mslba.org Assure your customers that the AIR they breathe and the SURFACES they touch are VIRUS FREE!

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