REGATTA TIME in ABACO 2008 See Story on Page 14 AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

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C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS AUGUST 2008 NO.O. 115555 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

REGATTA TIME IN ABACO 2008 See story on page 14 AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

ama Puerto Rico St. Croix St. Lucia St. Martin St. Vincent Trinidad and Tobago Antigua Barbados Bequia British Virgin Islands Curacao DominicaGrenada Panama St. Rico Puerto Croix h Virgin Islands Curacao Dominica Pan Grenada Virgin Curacao Islands h St. Lucia St. St. Martin Vincent Trinidad and Tobago

t Trinidad and Tobago Antigua Barbados Bequia Britis Barbados Antigua Tobago and Trinidad t Antigua Barbados Bequia British Virgin Islands Curacao Curacao Islands Virgin British Bequia Barbados Antigua Dominica Grenada Panama Puerto Rico St. Croix Croix St. Rico Puerto Panama Grenada Dominica St. Lucia St. Martin St. Vincen St. Martin St. Lucia St. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

DEAN BARNES The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore nte rme’ u i . 18 Another Premier’sCupwin ... Thomas Six forSt. 13 96 youngsailorscompete ..... Dinghy Fleet Record SIOR See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass Tel: (767)448-2705,[email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,24VictoriaStreet,Roseau, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410, Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass Word SearchPuzzle 35 ...... Cruising Crossword 34 Cartoons ...... Island Poets 34 ...... Sailors’ Horoscope 37 All Ashore… ...... Destinations...... 24 and28 19 Regatta News...... 10 Eco-News ...... 8 Business Briefs ...... AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution - Cees de Jong Distribution-CeesdeJong Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2008 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby AUGUST 2008•NUMBER155 www.caribbeancompass.com ...... 34 ...... 35 ...... DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe Distribution -EricBendahan(599)5533850 St. Maarten/St.Barths: [email protected] Tel: (758)584-1292, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel/Fax: +590(0)590845310Mob:64945 Advertisers’ Index 54 ...... 54 Classified Ads ...... 51 Caribbean Marketplace...... What’s OnMyMind...... 48-50 Readers’ Forum 46 ...... Cooking withCruisers....43-45 Meridian Passage 42 ...... Book Reviews...... 40-42 36 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 36 ...... nuepce neato ..38 An unexpectedinteraction .... Trinidad With Turtlesin 28 Off theboat,upvolcano . Adventure Guatemala 24 Our cruisingimpressions...... Chaser Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Distribution -WayneBarthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Stéphane Legendre Guadeloupe: Tel: (473)[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-AlanHooper Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Distribution-GladysJones inCuba Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad Sales & Distribution AdSales&Distribution

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis,

BATE CHAPMAN Inset: Cover photo: 31 31 25 24 23 16 15 www.sanjuaninternational.com 11 -17 www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html 11 -12 10 4 4 St.Vincent&theGrenadines,andTrinidadTobago 3 -7 1 1 July 27to3Aug AUGUST 24 24 20 19 17 15 8 6 -7 6 5 -11 1 SEPTEMBER Eacpto a.Pbi oia nBrao, AugustMonday.Publicholidayinsomeplaces. EmancipationDay.PublicholidayinBarbados, VirginoftheValleyFestival,Margarita,Venezuela BonaireDay.PublicholidayinBonaire;boatraces IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago LocalFishingTournament,Bonaire St.LouisFestival,Corossol,Barths.Fishingcontests,boatraces FestivalofSt.Barthelemy,Barths.Boatraces GreatRace(powerboats)TrinidadtoTobago.www.ttpba.com FeastoftheAssumption.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies FULL MOON ConstitutionDay.PublicholidayinAnguilla RepublicDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago OurLadyoflasMercedes.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic Clean-UpDive,Bonaire IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinSt.Kitts&Nevis NationalHeroesDay,PublicholidayinSt.Kitts&Nevis CropOverFestival,Barbados.www.cropoverfestival.bb

DiadiBonairesailingraces, If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourcalendar, 55thSanJuanInternationalBillfishTournament,PuertoRico. GrenadaCarnival.PublicholidayinGrenada. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledgeattime Kadooment Day.PublicholidayinBarbados Carriacou Children’sEducationFundAuction,[email protected] Labor Day.PublicholidayinUSVI FULL MOON Back toSchoolsRegatta,BVI island regatta.SociétédesYolesRondes,www.yoles-rondes.org please sendthenameanddate(s)of eventandthename so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectly forconfirmation. thisissueof Abaco Rage Abaco Rage( and contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto TourdesYolesRondes,Martinique.Traditionalboats’roundthe Compass CALENDAR [email protected] -RegattaTimeinAbaco(SallyErdle) Robert Dunkley) wenttopress—butplanschange, AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 readers might remember readers might remember Compass The system was launched on July 1st with a pilot launched on July 1st with The system was be launched in the British The system is scheduled to known as The electronic clearance system, the system to enter and Registered users can access The importance of this development cannot be —Continued on next page yachts traveling within the Caribbean. yachts traveling entering and which permits yachts project in St. Lucia, to submit the relevant documenta- leaving St. Lucia office on computers at the Customs tion either on via the internet at www. arrival, or remotely, upon You must still report at Customs eSeaClear.com. infor- can access the notification arrival, but Customs efficiently — your clearance more mation to process for you to fill out the declaration without the need forms by hand. roll-out around Virgin Islands shortly, with progressive course, continue to adhere the region. Yachts must, of of reporting. to each country’s specific rules by CCLEC, a union of eSeaClear, was developed the EU and US, as some 35 Customs entities, including System, which was set part of the Regional Clearance of yachts traveling up to facilitate the processing of eSeaClear is completely around the region. The use with a preference for voluntary, so that yacht skippers will not be forced to existing paper documentation departing from countries clear electronically. Yachts will need to use that do not subscribe to eSeaClear but the developers existing paper-based procedures, will win converts quickly, are confident that the system because of its intrinsic utility. their vessel or vessels, maintain information about crew and passengers. Once all Caribbean countries are aboard, prior to arrival at a new country the vessel operator simply ensures the information is accurate for the upcoming voyage and submits a new notification: you won’t have to fill in declaration forms by hand at each country you arrive in. By using eSeaClear to make your arrival notifications, you’ll be able to clear Customs faster and more efficiently so you can start enjoying your visit sooner. overstated, as the fury of the storm over the introduction of the Advance Passenger Information System (APIS) by CARICOM governments late last year. The CMA has argued that APIS is not yacht-friendly, and would destroy the yachting industry in the ten Eastern Caribbean countries (all English-speaking) that had signed on to it. Most of these countries chose to ignore APIS in light of the sustained opposition coming from the yachting trade. It’s voluntary and user- friendly. The eSeaClear website guides you step by step through filling out your Customs clearance forms electronically. You’ll still have to go to Customs on arrival, but won’t have to fill out declaration forms there by hand. Intended for eventual Caribbean-wide use, the system is now being tested in St. Lucia and user feedback is encouraged Association (CMA) and the Caribbean Customs Law Association (CMA) and the are pleased to Enforcement Council (CCLEC) of electronic clearance for announce the introduction

Electronic Clearance for Yachts Introduced Electronic Clearance for Yachts the Caribbean Marine Keats Compton, President of

& Updates & Info Association, reports: The Caribbean Marine Association, reports: The Caribbean AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 prohibitively expensiveharbourfees tourism, andtheBVICabinethasdecidedtosetaside The BritishVirginIslands’economyreliesonyacht visit www.eSeaClear.com. provided byCCLEC. eSeaClear andtoprovidefeedbackontheforms are able,toparticipatefullyinthetrialsof Government meetinginAntiguaJune. mally conveyedtotheCARICOMHeadsof APIS initscurrentform.TheOECS’spositionwasfor- States (OECS)towithdrawthatgroup’ssupportfor fully lobbiedtheOrganisationofEasternCaribbean clearance information.Assuch,theCMAhassuccess- viding therelevantauthoritieswithrequiredyacht- provides amorerealisticandpracticalvehicleforpro- to APISasfoisteduponthetrade,arguingthatCCLEC The BritishVirginIslands’GovernmentInformation BVI DefersImplementationofNewYachtFees To registerforelectronicyachtclearance We wouldliketoencourageallyachtspeoplewho The CMAremainsattheforefrontofopposition — Continued frompreviouspage e-mail: Contact John Louis •876-715-6044876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'in length. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe www.errolflynnmarina.com noerllnmrn.o • [email protected] VHF Channel16 mately US$675permonthtovisittheBVI.] 43-foot yacht,forexample,wouldhavepaidapproxi- yachts.” [ capital oftheWesternHemisphere,ifnot a yachtingdestination. attempt toprotecttheTerritory’scompetitiveedgeas sion wastakentodefertheintroductionoffeesinan yachting industrybothlocallyandabroad,thedeci- tions, maritimeagentsandothersinvolvedinthe resentations madetoGovernmentbylocalassocia- sequently deferreduntilJuly15th. ture wouldhavetakeneffectonJuly1stbutwassub- the Cabinetonpreviousday. decision wastakenataspeciallyconvenedsittingof Honourable RalphT.O’Neal,OBE,revealedthatthe using aBVIPortsAuthorityfacility. entering orremaininginTerritorialwatersthose defer theimplementationofharbourfeesforvessels Service reports:Cabinethasdecidedtoindefinitely “After all,theBVIhasbeenknownassailing However, thePremierexplainedthatbasedonrep- It waspreviouslyannouncedthatthenewfeestruc- In astatementmadeonJuly15th,Premier Editor’s note:Underthenewfeestructure,a

Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina

THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON Duty Free Zone inMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina the worldformarinersand most expensivedestinationin Territory mayhavebecomethe this newfeestructure,the that iftheBVIweretoimplement addition, Cabinetdetermined Premier said.Headded,“In the risingcostoffuel,” the chargeswhencomparedto sidered thecostimplicationsof fee structureandalsowecon- ed againstadverseimpacts. ing industrymustbesafe-guard- further explainedthattheyacht- to JostVanDyke.”ThePremier enjoy ourwatersfromAnegada the Territoryandyachtsmen contributes totheeconomyof bered thattheyachtingindustry Premier stated. that thepeoplewillmake,” will doforanyrepresentation that weremade,astheCabinet to considertherepresentations extremely importantforCabinet world, andthereforeitwas “Cabinet reviewedthenew He added:“Itmustberemem- Out ofthe Water Storage Upto95Feet OT NOI,JAMAICAPORT ANTONIO, Introducing the NEW —Continuedonnextpage Cays MarinePark,St.Vincent&theGrenadinesreports: this growth. the necessaryprotectionsforsectorsthatpropel economic developmentfortheTerritoryandproviding report toCabinetbySeptember. Hotel Association.Thegroupisexpectedtosubmitits sentative fromtheBVIChamberofCommerceand Lorraine StouttofCaribbeanTransportandarepre- Vincent O’Neal;ComptrollerofCustoms,WadeSmith; Ford; ManagingDirectoroftheBVIPortsAuthority, Acting ChairmanoftheBVITouristBoard,Terrance Haycraft andwillincludelocalagent,FrancisDavid; fees. ThisgroupwillbechairedbyyachtsmanPeter lish aseven-memberfocusgrouptoreviewthesaid of harbourfees,theBVICabinethasagreedtoestab- pay thenormalper-personparkentryfee for anyyachtunder70feet.Mooringuserswillstill press. Meanwhile,thecostwillbeEC$45per24hours mooring-fee scheduleasthisissueof yacht moorings.TheParkBoardisdecidingona Tobago CaysMarineParkrangersassemblingthenew Lesroy Noel, Education Coodinator of the Tobago Lesroy Noel,EducationCoodinatoroftheTobago Optional MooringsforTobagoCaysPark The Governmentiscommittedtoensuringmaximum In additiontoindefinitelydeferringtheintroduction etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market 1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor

Navigating thegoodlife Compass goesto AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

Flying Cloud , the ship was based in Tahiti , the ship was was donated to a museum in was donated Oisseau des Isles Flying Cloud Plans are now underway to have Plans are now underway to For more information Built as a cadet training ship for the French Navy in training ship for the French Built as a cadet during World War II and later hauled freight in Mexico. II and later hauled freight during World War ship became part of the Windjammer The renamed sailed regu- charter fleet in 1968 and Barefoot Cruises by some where she was joking called larly in the BVI, the charter She was retired from the “Frying Crowd”. to main- she was too expensive fleet in 2002 because tain. reportedly declined to Trinidad but that institution accept the ship. to the BVI. Her final towed from Port of Spain, Trinidad, been announced. “resting place” has not yet visit www.windjammerflyingcloud.com. —Continued on page 55 to BVI waters to be sunk as a dive site attraction. to be sunk as a dive site attraction. to BVI waters 1935 as Flying Cloud is to be sunk as a BVI dive site Limited availability on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, on +1(473) 435 7432 or email [email protected] the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager, the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager, Anna Tabone, on +356 2248 0000 or email [email protected] Anna Tabone, Slips are available for sale or rental. For a private consultation to discuss To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, we highly recommend a visit. To arrange an we highly recommend a visit. To this rare opportunity, fully appreciate To Flying Cloud The once proud Jason also directs IGFA’s World Record and IGFA’s World Record and Jason also directs “Jason is President of the TTGFA said, Chris Mouttet, ‘Sink the Flying Cloud’ Project organization and the The British Virgin Islands Scuba Tobago observers will join a prestigious group of 1,000 will join a prestigious group Tobago observers observers worldwide.” a Masters Programmes. He holds Observer Training in from Old Dominion University Degree in Biology fisheries and previously worked in Norfolk, Virginia with the Florida Fish and Wildlife management Commission. Conservation and we who enjoys all types of fishing an avid angler him come here to train are very fortunate to have fishermen in this very several key Trinidad and Tobago important training programme.” process of bringing the BVI Tourist Board are in the tall ship three-masted, 200-foot, 400-ton . Check it out! WEST INDIES . . www.fattygoodlander.com www.artandsea.com www.seafaring.com Continued from previous page Continued from Port Louis, Grenada of all sizes up to 90m available right now for sale or rental. powder-white beaches, rainforests, spice plantations and a calendar packed with and a calendar packed with beaches, rainforests, spice plantations powder-white regattas and festivals. Grenada is also the gateway to the Grenadines, one of the hotels, villas, restaurants and bars, plus some of the ﬁnest boutiques and shops in the region. ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY Now there’s another good reason to visit. There are 50 new fully serviced another good reason to visit. There are 50 new fully slips for yachtsNow there’s Nowhere extends a warmer welcome than Port can expect Louis, Grenada. Visitors Sitting alongside the marina, the forthcoming Port will include luxury Louis Maritime Village world’s most beautiful and unspoilt cruising areas. world’s A warm your yacht at Port welcome awaits you and Louis The unique marine artwork of Patrick Chevalier, resi- The unique marine artwork Cruisers Site-ings “ink-slinging sea The irrepressible self-described For more information visit www.tobagocays.com or For more information visit www.tobagocays.com Jason’s primary duties at the IGFA include directing The moorings were funded by the Government of The moorings were funded new seafaring music on Aargh! There be some great Trinis Join IGFA Observers Worldwide Jason Schratwieser, Conservation Director for the We encourage the use of these moorings, even We encourage the use of these dent doctor on Palm Island in the Grenadines, can be dent doctor on Palm Island seen at gypsy” Captain Fatty Goodlander has a new web gypsy” Captain Fatty Goodlander page at phone (784) 485-8191. conservation efforts such as participation in national and international fisheries management panels, collaborative game fish research and liaison between anglers and fisheries management. Jason said, “I’ve been at IGFA about five years and we typically do about five classes each year. We’ve held these classes in five US states, Bermuda, Turks & Caicos, Puerto Rico, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Venezuela and now in Trinidad & Tobago. These newly certified Trinidad & SVG and were installed by TCMP park rangers and SVG and were installed by latter of which contribut- Sunsail charter company, the ed technical and physical support. radio, now on the air Latitudes & Attitudes Seafaring Most of the artists fea- 24/7/365 and commercial free! tured are true boating singers and songwriters who you won’t hear on any other radio station. Visit International Game Fish Association (IGFA) was recently invited to Trinidad & Tobago by the Trinidad & Tobago Game Fishing Association (TTGFA) to train several locals in an observer’s course at The Lure Restaurant in Chaguaramas. though they are optional, as they are affordable and though they are optional, as marine life in the park. help in the preservation of the — Cays further develop the Tobago In an effort to the and to make it user-friendly, Marine Park (TCMP) stage of of the park is now in the final management view that 32 yacht moorings. It is our putting down fragile will limit damage to the park’s these moorings to are strategically placed habitats. The moorings too close to dropping their anchors deter yachts from which are area and the coral reefs, the turtle nesting attractions in the Cays. two of the many AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.biz E-mail:[email protected] Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! We monitorVHFchannels16&79A(alpha –Americansystem) a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space a 111-slipmarinaandboatyardwith12acresofdrystoragespace • Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, Onsite amenitiesandservicesincludeabank/ATM,supermarket, V chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and chandlery, restaurant,bakery,clothingstore,diveshop,phoneand a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration a pristineandrelaxingenvironment.BVICustomsimmigration Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises Our facilitylocatedintheheartofbeautifulVirginGordacomprises P.O. Box4540,AirportRoad,SintMaarten, N.A.,Caribbean Wirelessinternet,banksandlaundry withinthecomplex offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel offering insuranceapprovedhurricanepitstosecureyourvessel Join usthissummerandcontinuetoenjoythehospitality. fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, fax facilities,freewirelessinternetaccess,fuel,waterandice, laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in laundry facilities,andanofficeoftheBVITouristBoardallin IRGIN Tel: 284495-5500

• Pick-upanddrop-offfrommajorsupermarkets

• Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps Electricity:220V/50amp;110V/300amps 8 495-5318 284 IN OURCARETHISSUMMER located withinconvenientwalkingdistance. Tel: 599-5442309Fax:599-5443378 G (single phaseandthreephase) • FreesatelliteTVateachslip • • Fueldockandbunkering ORDA Web:www.vgmarina.biz 120concreteslipberths WE OFFER: LEAVE YOURBOAT during hurricane season. during hurricaneseason. • Full ServiceMarinaFacility Telephonehook-up • • Showerfacilities 24hoursecurity • 16ftchannel VHF Ch:16 Y ACHT a: 8 495-5706 284 Fax:

284 495-5685 ARBOUR —Continuedonnextpage to reelinfishingenthusiasts. Discovery atMarigotBay,St.Lucia,isoffering aspecialsummerpackagethatissure Discovery St.LuciaAnglesforFishingVisitors at Available frommajorbookstoresinTrinidad, andfromthepublisher The priceofTT$65orUS$20includespackaging, registrationandpostage. plant entryisaccompaniedbyoriginaldrawings toaididentification. plete withbotanicalnames,descriptions, originsandchemicalcomposition.Each ganja, nutmeg,baigan,pomegranateandwildcucumberaredocumented,com- saigan, tilanddatur,aswellthemorecommononessuchblackpepper, of Trinidad&Tobago.Plantsincludingsupari,katahar,madar,chalta,lauki,jhingi, used mainly—sometimesexclusivelybytheEastIndian/SouthAsiancommunity A newpaperbackbookhasbeenpublishedgivinginformationon63localplants Medicinal PlantsofTrinidadandTobago For [email protected]. Jean-Marc’s expertiseisalsoavailabletoyachtingeventorganizers. Caribbean, MediterraneanandPacific,aswellanannualtransatlanticevent, extended cruisewithfamilyorcrew.Withhisbackgroundinorganizingralliesthe on everyaspectofpreparationfrombuyingtherightboattoprovisioningitforan A life-longsailor,Jean-Marcoffershisexperiencetofuturecruisers,givingguidance opened arecreational-boatingconsultancyservicecalledConseillerNautique. now runsfromGuadeloupetoCubaundertheauspicesofStéphaneLegendre, has Jean-Marc Rutin,whofoundedthepopularannualTranscaraibesyachtrallythat Rally OriginatorOpensYachtConsultancy For moreinformationonCaribbeanHorizonsTours&Servicesseeadpage47. For moreinformationonPricklyBayMarinaseeadpage11. Barbados andCanouan. Island, siteoftheproposedFourSeasonsResort.ThegroupalsovisitedSt.Lucia, the uniqueunderwatersculptureparkatMoliniereReefandtookadaysailtoHog to enjoyinganislandtourwithCaribbeanHorizonsTours&Services,thegroupvisited including thesoon-to-be-openedWatersideResortatPricklyBayMarina.Inaddition Twenty-five operatorsbasedinMoscowandKievvisitednumeroushotelsresorts neighboring islandsandcoralreefsinJune. Russian touroperatorsandtravelagentsvisitedGrenada’sluxuryseasideproperties, Russians DiscoverGrenada’sMarineScene For moreinformationseeadonpage6. we arelocatedhavethelowestincidenceofcrimeanywhereinCaribbean.” important alsothatweemphasizePortAntonioandthePortlandParishinwhich way andwalkwayareawithinthecompound.Marinamanagementsays,“Itis premises alsonowhavea24-hourmobilepatrolfortheseveralkilometersofroad- provided byacombinationofmarinapersonnelandprivatesecurityservices.The security appliedtoallareasofoperation.Atthemarinalevel,thereis24/7 Port SecurityCode)CompliantFacility,whichmeansthatthereisahighlevelof Port Antonio,inwhichErrolFlynnMarinaislocated,anISPS(InternationalShipand dockage rates.Normalelectricalandwaterchargesapplytoeachdayofdockage. day free.Thisdiscountdoesnotapplytoalreadydiscountedlongtermandseasonal November 1st.Foreverythreedaysatstandardtransientdockagerates,you’llgetone You cansave25percentondockageatJamaica’sErrolFlynnmarinathrough Errol Flynn,Jamaica,OffersSummerDiscount For moreinformationonPortLouismarinaseeadpage7. completed marinawilloffermorethan350berthsforcraftfromtento90metres. Currently beingdevelopedalongsideanEC$1.5billionMaritimeVillageproject,the and theGrenadines.” perfect positionforchartersandcruiserswantingtoexploretheislandsofGrenada marina’s generalmanagerinGrenada.Rawls,whorelocatedfromtheUSAfor Camper &NicholsonsMarinashaveappointedClydeRawlstoserveasPortLouis New ManagerforPortLouis,Grenada new generalmanager Clyde RawlsisPortLouis,Grenada’s, BUSINESS BRIEFS

[email protected]. 200 years.Grenadaisina the worldformorethan have establishedallover standards thatC&NM class marinawiththehigh helping establishaworld- team andlookforwardto Camper &Nicholsons ed tobejoiningthe Rawls said:“Iamdelight- to 85metresinlength. acht slipsrangingfrom75 nine additionalsupery- oversee theopeningof November hewillalso operation. From viced berthscurrentlyin tions forthe50fullyser- the day-to-dayopera- customer enquiries,and struction schedule,new site tooverseethecon- to this,Rawlswillbeon plete inSpring2009.Prior is expectedtobecom- Lagoon, PortLouismarina Situated inSt.George’s Ft. Lauderdale. Yachting Centerin Bahia MarBeachResort& in Florida,includingthe aged threeresortmarinas experience havingman- position, hasmanyyears’ AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 on (built in Legacy (1927), which , is scheduled to be Yankee Clipper Fantome Flying Cloud (1938) and the Polynesia (1923), the Mandalay Continued from previous page Continued from After ceasing operations for several weeks last year, the Burke family-owned com- The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has received But April is long gone and no Windjammer cruises have taken place since last A posting on www.cruisemates.com says, “Throughout early 2008 the Burke fam- For six decades, the Florida-based company founded by Captain Mike Burke ran For six decades, the Florida-based company founded Windjammer Barefoot Cruises Sunk from Windjammer Although no official statement to that effect has come For more information contact Liz Holder, manager of Ondeck’s Antiguan opera- For more information contact Liz Holder, manager of Ondeck’s Ondeck is headquartered in the UK and runs operations in Antigua, Portugal, and Ondeck is headquartered in the UK and runs operations Ondeck has made plans for Antiguan skipper Logan Knight to go to the UK to fur- Ondeck has made plans for Antiguan skipper Logan Knight For more information visit www.discoverystlucia.com. RYA Training Expected for Antigua Ondeck, has The Antigua-based sailing charter and training company, — enjoy a four- conditions, anglers can of summer’s ideal fishing Taking advantage Summertime is fishing time, and St. Lucia’s Marigot Bay is a great place to start Summertime is fishing time, and St. Lucia’s Marigot Bay pany planned to relaunch cruises on its fleet of ships, starting with the was lost with 31 crewmembers in Hurricane Mitch off Honduras in 1999. numerous complaints about Windjammer since its shutdown, because the company has not refunded prepaid fares for the canceled cruises. A letter reportedly received by a former Windjammer client from the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services stated that Windjammer Barefoot Cruises Ltd. is “no longer in business”. November. Many of the ships have reportedly been seized by creditors. As of this writing, one of the former Windjammer fleet, the ily went quietly underground. They stopped commenting in public and put out no press releases. In March, the Miami headquarters went silently dark. The company still owed millions of dollars in unfulfilled cruises alone, plus other financial liabilities. Yet, they never declared bankruptcy or made any other formal financial moves at all.” a fleet of historic and romantic tall ships in the Caribbean. Passengers loved the a fleet of historic and romantic tall ships in the Caribbean. Caribbean men and women laid-back ambience and reasonable rates, and many found long-term work aboard the ships. Unlike large cruise ships, where everything a passenger could want, from food to entertainment to shops, is found aboard, “jam- mers” were famous for exploring and spending their money ashore, a boon to many Caribbean communities’ economies. The fleet included the 1927), the November 3rd, 2007, followed by the other ships in the spring of this year. In a series of late-2007 press releases, however, the company canceled all sailings through at least January 2008. April 1st, 2008 — April Fool’s Day — was the day that the most recent CEO of the company, Joey Burke, had promised Windjammer’s faithful fol- lowers that the fleet would once again be in full service. sunk in the British Virgin Islands as a dive site. (See related story on page 7.) Barefoot Cruises, all available information indicates that the company has gone the company has gone Barefoot Cruises, all available information indicates that out of business. tion, at [email protected]. the US Virgin Islands. The company will draw on the successful model of Ondeck the US Virgin Islands. The company will draw on the successful equivalent is as highly Training in the UK and Portugal to ensure that the Caribbean regarded and respected. ther his qualifications through Ondeck Training UK, which will qualify him to become ther his qualifications through Ondeck Training UK, which be trained to the Yachtmaster Ondeck Training Antigua’s chief instructor. Logan will courses on yachts. Instructor level, which will allow him to teach all of Ondeck’s announced the imminent opening of “Ondeck Training Antigua”. The Royal announced the imminent opening of “Ondeck Training credit the new facility with Yachting Association (RYA) of the UK will visit Antigua to at the Ondeck base in the capability of training all ages, beginners to experts more Antiguans and aid Falmouth Harbour. Ondeck hopes to open up sailing to them in developing careers on the water. half-day sportfishing excursions on a private fishing boat. If you’ve never fished half-day sportfishing excursions on a private fishing boat. to show you the ropes. before, an experienced fishing-boat crew will be happy new fishing grounds. Experienced anglers can come and enjoy the thrill of night stay at the five-star Discovery at Marigot Bay with the added bonus of two Bay with the added bonus five-star Discovery at Marigot night stay at the AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 National MarineFisheriesService(NMFS)blamedthe species tovanishbecauseofhumanactivity.TheUS Caribbean monksealextinct,makingitthefirst surrounding seawater,whichspreadtheinfection. exploded. Thatledtospillingofthevirusesinto virus withinthealgaetoreplicateuntil benzophenone, cinnamateandcamphor—causedthe that liveinahealthycoral.Thechemicals—paraben, dormant virusesinzooxanthellae,thesymbioticalgae without sunscreen.Thecontrolsremainedhealthy. compared withcontrolsamplesofcoralsinseawater days tobecomecompletelybleached.Thesampleswere bleaching withinafewhoursandittookthemjust screen lotions.Theyfoundthatthecoralsstarted water supplementedwithvariousquantitiesofsun- Thailand andthePacificOceannearIndonesia. the RedSea,CaribbeanIndianOceanoff of sunscreenexposureonsamplesfromtropicalreefsin complete bleachingofhardcorals.Theystudiedtheeffect extremely lowconcentrations,cancauseabruptand say chemicalcompoundsinsunscreenproducts,evenat Polytechnic University,Italy,whocarriedoutthestudy, Environmental HealthPerspectives es intheirenvironment. ecosystems oftheworld,arehighlysensitivetochang- among themostbiologicallyproductiveanddiverse products mightthreatentropicalcoralreefs.Corals, CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS On June6th,theUSgovernmentdeclared Caribbean MonkSealDeclaredExtinct The researchersfoundthatsunscreensstimulated The coralsweresuspendedinbagsofvirus-freesea- According totheApril2008issueofjournal A recentstudyindicatesthatchemicalsinsunscreen Study LinksSunscreentoCoralBleaching been declaredextinct A captiveCaribbeanmonksealattheNewYorkAquariuminaround1910.Thespecieshasnow , scientists at the , scientistsatthe “Nature Island”nowsupportstheIWC’sworldwideban its former“sustainableuse”positiononwhaling:the Dominica. Dominicamadenewsrecentlybyreversing International FundforAnimalWelfare(IFAW),isfrom did notcomeupforavote. remained ineffectandtheSouthAtlanticSanctuary South AtlanticWhaleSanctuary.Intheend,ban proposal byBrazil,ArgentinaandSouthAfricafora commercial whalingasrequestedbyJapan,anda Chile, werethepossibleliftingofglobalbanon annual meeting,whichbeganJune23rdinSantiago, International WhalingCommission(IWC)attheir2008 entangling andkillingtheseals. carded andlostfishinggeararelikelyculpritsin death. Additionally,theConservancystatedthatdis- play withtrashandgetentangled,oftenleadingto but dwindlingpopulationsarehurtwhenyoungseals endangered. Huntingofmonksealshasbeenbanned, Hawaiian andMediterraneanmonksealsarealso fear ofhumansalsocontributedtoitsdemise. Caribbean MonkSealwassluggishonland.Itslackof was approximately20years.Likeothertrueseals,the and reeffish.Itisbelievedthattheaveragelifespan ter andbreeding.Theirdietincludedlobsters,octopus, water, occupyingrockyandsandycoastlinesforshel- pounds. Thesealsspentmuchoftheirtimeinthe (six toninefeetlong).Themalesweighedup400 miles north-northeastofNicaragua,in1952. are ofasmallcolonyatSerranillaBank,about210 and blubber.Thelastreliablerecordsofthisspecies dreds ofyearsbeinghuntedforfoodandtheirskins listed asanendangeredspeciesin1967,afterhun- Caribbean SeaandtheGulfofMexico.Theywere them,” saidKyleBaker,abiologistfortheNMFS. Seal populationunsustainableafteroverhunting of the20thcentury.“HumansleftCaribbeanMonk demise ofthespeciesonoverhuntinginfirsthalf Kelvin Alie,seniorprogrammanagerofthe Among themainissuesdiscussedbymembersof The CaribbeanandtheIWC According toTheOceanConservancy,thesurviving The CaribbeanMonkSealwasarelativelysmallseal The seals( Monachus tropicalis

) onceinhabitedthe NEW YORK ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY ZOOLOGICAL YORK NEW —Continuedonnextpage its wastewater. development tohaveawastewaterplantandrecycle country intheCaribbeanthatrequireseverytourist water issues.HesaidthatTurks&Caicosistheonly of artificialwetlands. effluent dischargeincludeaeration,filtrationanduse makes itanidealplacetodoaprojectlikethis.” and theTurtleFarmasanawareness–buildingfacility a cost–effectivemeansofdealingwithaquaticwaste, reef,” saidGoreau.Gatzadded,“Weareheretodevise means cleaningupthewaterandregenerationof plans. “Ourgoalistobringthisreefbacklife,which gave apresentationonJune25th,outliningtheir Alliance andHenningGatzofAquacareEnvironment Thomas Goreau,presidentoftheGlobalCoralReef invited expertstoaddresstheeffluentsituation. eggs fromthewildwouldbemitigated. research, anyharmcreatedbyremovingturtlesand lations further.Byreleasingturtlesandfacilitating a sourceofproductthatdidnotdepletethewildpopu- purposes. Theintentionwastosupplythemarketwith the greenseaturtle, United StatesandGreatBritainasafacilitytoraise Mariculture Ltd.byagroupofinvestorsfromthe or diseaseofvirtuallyallthenearbycoralreef. green algae,whichsubsequentlyresultedinthedeath Turtle Farmhavecontributedtoanovergrowthof for thepast40years.”Excessnutrientsfrom Islands TurtleFarmhasbeenpumpingintotheocean lions ofgallonsuntreatedeffluenttheCayman viable solutionsareonthehorizonfordealingmil- Caymanian Compass ocean meansahealthyeconomy.” the economybyattractingeco-tourists:ahealthy ing whalesfromwhaling.Sanctuariesarealsogoodfor the firststep,andonewithmostimpact,isprotect- noise, pollution,shipstrikesandclimatechange),but done toprotectthemfromtheseotherthreats(suchas step toprotectingwhales.Thereremainsmuchbe political boundaries.Creatingsanctuariesisthefirst chance ofprotectingtheseanimalsthatknowno breed tocoolerwaterswheretheyfeed,offersthebest South AtlanticOcean,fromwarmerwaterswherethey ocean meansthatwhalesmigratethroughthe even knowwheretheygo.Protectingalargeswathof sands ofmileslongand,formanyspecies,wedon’t you shouldcare!Whaleshavemigrationroutesthou- a southernhemisphereissue.Hereplied,“Absolutely Kelvin whypeopleintheCaribbeanshouldcareabout Whale Sanctuaryhasbeenpostponed,weasked Caribbean andensuringoureconomicfuture.” tecting whaleswe’remakingthebestchoicefor they seefitandnotsellouttoJapan’sbribes.Bypro- says, “CaribbeancountriesshouldvoteattheIWChow ment onCaribbeancountries’involvementintheIWC. on commercialwhaling. Goreau notedthatGrandCaymanisnotaloneinits Options theTurtleFarmmightchoosetocontrol Turtle FarmManagingDirectorJosephEbanks The CaymanTurtleFarmwasestablishedin1968as Basio PiororeportedintheJune30thissueof Cayman TurtleFarmHeedsAlarm Although thevoteonaproposedSouthAtlantic Regarding thebanoncommercialwhaling,Kevin

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AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 On July 2nd and 3rd, scientists with the Venezuelan Eastern Caribbean Whale News Eastern Caribbean Whale for anyone interested in Here is an excellent resource Puerto La Cruz Canals Environmentalists Study from “Venice-like”, and The word Venezuela derives It is now generally understood that tourism will understood that tourism It is now generally www.unep.org/regional- For more information visit A project has been launched to determine the health of A project has been launched to determine the health of El Morro’s unique canal ecosystem Cruz was developed reflecting this, with an extensive Cruz was developed reflecting this, with an extensive system of canals linking the sea with residential areas and marinas, both of which are popular with Venezuelans and visitors alike. environmental group Fundación La Tortuga completed preliminary inspections for a project to monitor the water quality of the canals in the El Morro complex. —Continued on next page cetaceans in the Eastern Caribbean. Check out the cetaceans in the Eastern Network’s newsletter at Eastern Caribbean Cetacean www.eccnwhale.org/pdf/new_EC_newsletter.pdf. coastal city of Puerto la the El Morro complex at the sewage runoff causes serious damage to coral reefs, causes serious damage sewage runoff corals growth, covering filter-feeding stimulating algae their ability to survive. and hindering developed and industry only if it is remain a successful practices. environmental best managed by integrating Environment launched the Caribbean In 1976 UNEP endeavor of an unparalleled joint Programme (CEP), embrac- Wider Caribbean region, which nations in the advance eco- diversity in its efforts to es the region’s health. nomic prosperity and environmental seas/programmes/unpro/Caribbean. “Tourism pressure is “Tourism pressure is International tourist arrivals ment, water consumption, ment, water consumption, excessive energy demand, increased waste generation and impacts on biodiversity. The seasonality of tourism, and the fact that popular destinations often coincide with environmentally sensitive areas, have resulted in some places becoming victims of their own attraction. extraordinarily high in countries where tourists outnum- ber local residents in certain places. Tourism development often takes place in a rapid and unplanned manner, resulting in drastic landscape transformation in a very short period of time, including defor- estation and drainage of wet- lands. Such habitat disrup- tion can result in significant biodiversity losses.” (2002) given as a percentage of total local population in select- ed Caribbean nations and ter- ritories are: Bahamas 496%, Turks & Caicos Islands, 779%, Cayman Islands 774%, Virgin

NORTHSIDE SPORTFISHING CLUB/HULL BAY HIDEAWAY According to UNEP, an international tourist typically Organizers would like to thank Bellows International like to thank Bellows International Organizers would Tourism Expansion: Threat or Opportunity? Conservation of the United Nations Environmental A publication sector and an increasing “Tourism is a fast-growing Islands 500%, Anguilla 378%, St. Kitts and Nevis 163%, Antigua and Barbuda 326%, Montserrat 300%, Guadeloupe 120%, Martinique 115%, Barbados 185%, Saint Lucia 171%, Grenada 164%, Aruba 659%. generates around 180 litres (about 40 gallons) of wastewater per day. Used wastewater is a major environmental concern and can threaten human and wildlife health. Many tourist facilities are located in isolated areas and are not connected to water treatment networks; the result is large volumes of sewage dis- charged directly to seas and rivers. In tropical areas, for product and all of the hardworking community all of the hardworking for product and to clean this gave their time and energy members who resource. beautiful natural 11 per- states: “Tourism generates Programme (UNEP) people, GDP and employs 200 million cent of global of waste yearly and but produces 4.8 million tonnes as a country the size and consumes as much energy The number of tourists is development level of Japan. to 1.6 billion by the year expected, at least, to double of natural resources 2020. Sustainable management the wellbeing of this eco- and wastes is essential for nomic sector and natural ecosystems. environment and natural source of pressure on the may not always be resources. Its constant growth development…. The compatible with sustainable transport, land develop- chief burdens come from Continued from previous page Continued from “The cans, which will be permanently secured on the The effort was also entertaining and educational. The effort was also entertaining Over the course of the daylong beautification effort, Over the course of the daylong The Club and Hull Bay Hideaway co-sponsored Hideaway co-sponsored The Club and Hull Bay “The clean-up had the added benefit of bringing the had the added benefit of “The clean-up St. Thomas’s Hull Bay Cleans Up St. Thomas’s of the reports: Over 50 members Carol Bareuther beach and maintained by Hull Bay Hideaway, turned out beautifully and we hope they will remind visitors to the beach to put their trash where it belongs and to continue to help keep our beaches clean,” says Sarah Haynes, general manager of Hull Bay Hideaway. trashcans donated by The Hull Bay Hideaway with trashcans donated by The Hull Bay Hideaway with colorful beach scenes and environmental slogans. Youngsters in St. Thomas beautified trash receptacles as well as the beach Participating school children painted and decorated Participating school children volunteers removed every speck of garbage from Hull volunteers removed every speck nearly overflowed a huge Bay Beach, an amount that away for disposal. PR trash bin that was later hauled of a backhoe and Gregory Construction donated use operator for the day. Berry volunteered as machine the clean-up. community together to share resources, work hard to share resources, community together says David Berry, and improve a common resource,” Sportfishing Club. vice president of the Northside Northside St. Thomas community – adults and chil- Thomas community – adults Northside St. to clean, joined together on June 29th dren alike – at Hull Bay, safer the public beach beautify and make Bastille Day for the 20th Annual in preparation on July 13th. which took place Kingfish Tournament, — AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 of coralreefsintheCaribbeanalone“areendangering University, Halifax,Canada,thelossesfromdecline ers toexplorethediversityofmarineenvironment. supply sandtobeachesanddrawdiverssnorkel- sion andtheworstravagesoftropicalstorms.They serve asanaturalbarrierthatprotectslandfromero- only docoralreefspossessaestheticvalue,theyalso value ofcoralreefsandthethreatsfacingthem.Not focus onaglobalcampaigntoraiseawarenessofthe oms wherethewatersrungurglinginbedsofcoral.” held therecollection,evenasonewhodivesthreefath- ing… MethoughtIfaintedatthecharmedtouch,yet sleep fullofsweetdreams,andhealth,quietbreath- ingness; butstillwillkeepabowerquietforus,and ever: Itslovelinessincreases;itwillneverpassintonoth- “Endymion”, whichstates:“Athingofbeautyisajoyfor reefs isfeaturedintheEnglishpoetJohnKeats’poem the endof2008.Tologareport,visitwww.noonsite.com. help buildupsomesignificantresearchdata.” and Iurgeallsailorstolookbackthoughtheirlogs for thebenefitofbothsailorsandmarinemammals, focus researchthroughtheglobalsailingcommunity, priority forthem.Wewelcomethisopportunitytohelp — thatconcernforthemarineenvironmentisahigh from oursitevisitors—allofwhomarecruisingsailors sailors aroundtheworld.Weknowfromfeedback “Whales anddolphinsareheldinspecialaffectionbyall collisions ornearmissesduringtheirsailingcareers. world toprovideinformationonanywhale/dolphin site.com andMEERareinvitingallsailorsaroundthe ors andforcetaceans.Aspartofthisresearchnoon- the collisionsandtohelpreduceriskbothforsail- sels andcetaceans,tohelpunderstandthereasonsfor collisions andnear-misseventsbetweensailingves- profit organisationMEER,isinvestigatingreportsof ing sailingvesselsisscarce. around theworld,butinformationoncollisionsinvolv- Collisions betweenshipsandcetaceansareincreasing and nearmissesbetweencetaceanssailingyachts. group MEERtolaunchaworldwidesurveyofcollisions ors —hasjoinedforceswithmarineenvironmental culture ofprotectionfortheseuniqueecosystems. of thecanalcomplexaimedatcreatinganongoing also behostingworkshopsfortheresidentsandusers the water-testingprogram,FundaciónLaTortugawill effluent fromthenearbycommunityofLecheria. pling stationsthatwilltakeintoaccountrun-offand scientists determinedthelocationofpermanentsam- environmental deterioration.Amongotherthings,the the canalsystemanddeviseplanstomitigateany The projectwilldeterminethecurrentwaterqualityin —

AMERON ABC3TINFREESELF POLISHING ANTIFOULINGPAINT THE CRUISINGSAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 CORNER: MIRANDA C T TEL: 58(281)265-3844-E-MAIL :[email protected] According toscientistDr.CamiloMoraofDalhousie The InternationalYearoftheReef2008continuesto Audrey Alleyne-Quinioureports:Thebeautyofcoral International YearoftheReefContinues The MEERresearchprojectwillrunonnoonsite.comuntil noonsite.com manager,SueRichards,commented: Marine biologistFabianRitter,workingforthenon- noonsite.com —theglobalwebsiteforcruisingsail- Collision Survey Cruisers’ SiteLaunchesCetacean For moreinformationvisitwww.fundacionlatortuga.org. Along withworkingtherelevantauthoritieson Continued frompreviouspage E O L : R

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C a vide toagrowinghumanpopulationdependonhow coral reefsintheCaribbeanandservicestheypro- four timesthepopulationofCanada. 121 millionpeoplelivealongtheCaribbeancoasts— agricultural chemicals.”Itisestimatedthatcurrently to agricultureresultsinmacroalgaeduerunoffof increased sewageandfishingpressure;whileproximity damage tocoralreefsandfishpopulations,becauseof Mora’s study,“Coastaldevelopmentcausesthemost fisheries, tourismandcoastalprotection.”Accordingto jeopardizing fourbilliondollarsinservicesworthof a largenumberofspecies,fromcoralstosharks,and R Mora furtherstatesinhisstudythat“thefutureof r i U n Z e , @

V c E N a n E Z t v U . your plansforprotectingthrivingreefslikethisone? It’s stilltheInternationalYearofReef.What’sin E n L e A t

Guidelines forTourists”,and“CoralIssueBriefs”. resources, projectsandarticlessuchas“Coral resources/education.asp areregularlyupdated Among educationalmaterialsfoundatwww.iyor.org/ tion planning,arenotimplementedsoon.” conservation strategies,includingpoliciesonpopula- logical crisisinthecominghalfcenturyifeffective that coralreefsarelikelytowitnessasignificanteco- lion todaytoninebillionfortheyear2050suggests increase oftheworld’shumanpopulationfromsixbil- ted toregulatinghumanthreats…Theexpected soon countriesintheregionbecomeseriouslycommit-

Education oftouristsandlocalsalikeiscritical. KAY WILSON, INDIGO DIVE, SVG DIVE, INDIGO WILSON, KAY AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 .com SIOR 2008 Winners Cucalon’s win, the first for a girl in this event, also earns her the title of Caribbean a girl in this event, also earns her the title of Caribbean Cucalon’s win, the first for junior sailors from 14 nations — Anguilla, A record 96 eight- to 15-year-old Best Girl and CSA titles, Cucalon also won the 13- As well as winning the Overall, led the 11- to 12-year-old Blue Fleet, while the The USA’s Christopher Williford because it was medium,” says Woods. “The wind was “This regatta was good for me Victor Rodriguez that placed first in the beginner Finally, it was Puerto Rico’s and my friend Jorge (Gonzalez) to win,” says Rodriguez.“It was really tight between me by Optisailors.com, pre- The Sea Star Clinic and Team Racing Regatta, powered Not only are island kids Optimist sailing is definitely on a roll in the Caribbean. “Mono” Bros, whose son Looking ahead, the Dominican Republic’s Omar sailed by some 150,000 kids The Optimist is an eight-foot long, single-sail dinghy Overall 1) Maria José Cucalon, Ecuador (49) 2) Ivan Aponte, Puerto Rico (53) 3) Jordi Hernandez, Spain (57) Red Fleet 1) Maria José Cucalon, Ecuador (49) 2) Ivan Aponte, Puerto Rico (53) 3) Jordi Hernandez, Spain (57) Blue Fleet 1) Christopher Williford, USA (135) 2) Victor Aponte, Puerto Rico (157) 3) Carlos Llorente, Spain (188) White Fleet 1) Jonathan Woods, BVI (430) 2) Colin Brego, St. John, USVI (484) 3) Myles Kaufmann, Trinidad & Tobago (506) Green Fleet 1) Victor Rodriguez, Puerto Rico (27) 2) Jorge Gonzalez, Puerto Rico (29) 3) Lucas Miranda, Puerto Rico (94) Optimist Champion 2008, as this regatta is a Caribbean Sailing Association (CSA)- Optimist Champion 2008, sanctioned event. Virgin Islands, the Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Barbados, Bermuda, the British all St. Maarten, Trinidad & Tobago, the United States, Germany, Puerto Rico, Spain, Venezuela — sailed in this event, which is credited with three US Virgin Islands and for kids in the Caribbean. jump-starting Optimist sailing to 15-year-old Red Fleet. Woods topped the age 10-and under White Fleet. British Virgin Islands’ Jonathan for and not blowing so hard the last day. It was perfect really strong the first day me,” says Woods. Green Fleet. him when he did good.” “I felt bad for him when I beat him and I was happy for clinic taught by coaches from ceded the SIOR. Seventy sailors attended the three-day Rico Team 1 won the Team South America, the USA and the Caribbean. Puerto Ivan Aponte, Raul Rios, Racing event, sailed June 19th. Team members were Team 1 finished second Fernando Monllor and Fernando Monllor. The Virgin Islands Nikki Barnes. with members Alex Coyle, Alec Taylor, Ian Barrows and but the island chain is des- winning continental and international championships, four times in five years tined to host the Optimist North American Championships in 2008 and the Dominican — Tobago in 2005, Puerto Rico in 2006, Curaçao Republic in 2009. the 2009 Optimist North Sebastian sailed in the Red Fleet, says, “We’ll sail 1996 Sunfish Worlds and the Americans out of Boca Chica, where we hosted the and there’s open-ocean rac- 2003 Pan American Games. The bay is well protected ing with a good breeze.” 60 percent of the skippers in 110 countries worldwide. At the Athens Olympics over Optimist sailors. and 70 percent of the medal-winning skippers were former

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BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since First lady! Maria José Cucalon is the first girl ever to become overall winner since the Scotiabank event was established in the early 1990s — and in a record-sized fleet, too

to sailing in heavy winds at home in Ecuador. “But Maria José Cucalon isn’t used

First Female Winner in Record Participation Record in Winner Female First

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I’ve traveled and raced in many countries where the conditions are windier and that countries where the conditions are windier and that I’ve traveled and raced in many says Cucalon, winner of the 2008 Scotiabank helped a lot in this regatta,” St. (SIOR), raced June 20th through 22nd out of the International Optimist Regatta US Virgin Islands. Thomas Yacht Club in the AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 theory) ofbeinglivedaboard—nostripped-outpock- be notlessthan20feetlongandcapable(atleastin lunch ordinner. island, andyoucaneasilysailtoanearbycayfor Abaco boastsmoremarinasthananyotherBahamian ous cays,withamixtureofcivilizationandisolation. from Atlanticrollersbyasystemofreefsandnumer- Abaco offersahundred-milecruisinggroundsheltered nity isuniquewithitsownpersonality.”TheSeaof to enjoytimeexplore…Eachcayandeachcommu- interesting anddiverselocationwhileallowingfamilies says, “Wewanttoprovideaneventthatreflectsour three laydaysincluded.RTIACommodoreDaveRalph like itbecauseit’safamilyevent,notjustracing.” event? RegattaCoordinatorRuthSaunderssays,“They many amateurstoracetheiryachtsinanine-day days atmost.HowdoesRTIAcontinuetoinduceso when thekidsareoutofschool. boat ortwodaysbysailboatfromFlorida,atatime racers, beingonlyonehourbyair,daypower- RTIA drawsabigsocialfollowinginadditiontothe ern UStoracealongwithBahamian-basedboats. the regattaattractsmainlyyachtsfromsoutheast- Day, andbeforetheheightofhurricaneseason, Independence holidayandTheBahamas’ to raceinsixclasses.ScheduledbetweentheUS mier sailingeventoftheBahamas,attracted61entries between neighboringcays. round-the-buoys coursesanddestinationraces vided atasteofboth.Thefive-raceseriesincluded Regatta TimeinAbaco,July3rdthrough11th,pro- the dailyprizegivingparties,and33rdAnnual 18-year-old foredeckcrewJillianAydelotteatoneof “

Cruising andracingisthebest!”announced Rodney Bay,St.Lucia The boatsinthisyear’sregatta,allofwhichhadto Plenty oflimin’timeisbuiltintotheschedule,with But mostregattaslastalongweekend,maybefive This year’sRegattaTimeinAbaco(RTIA),thepre- Long-Running ‘Family Event’ Innovates forSuccess

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e-mail:[email protected] ERDLE SALLY to stealtheshowwithfivebulletsinRTIAClass Below: TheC&C115 monohulls to aHunter33.5and,forthefirsttime,catsamong included boatsrangingfromatraditionalBahamiansloop Left: StartswerecloseeveninMotherTubClasses,which —Continuedonnextpage discouraged. (Thereweren’tanythisyear.) dard andcompetitionis,well,competitive,protestsare since theirhandicapsmaychangefromdaytoday. There arenooverallprizesintheMotherTubclasses, this year’s“tubs”—enoughforthreebigclasses. to win.Unorthodox,yes,but46boatssignedupbe to affordallMotherTubyachtsanequalopportunity Committee maybeadjustedfromracetoinorder are allowed,andhandicapsassignedbytheRace competitively. Nospinnakersorotherspecialtysails boats equippedforcruisingthatdonotnormallyrace use spinnakers. heavier displacementracer/cruiserswhoalsowishto kers andotherspecialtysails.PHRFclassisfor race underthePHRFhandicaprules,usingspinna- light tomediumdisplacementyachtsthatnormally PHRF, MotherTubandMultihullfleets.RTIAisfor et rocketsorbeachcatsneedapply—racedinRTIA, Although theracesareruntoaprofessionalstan- The MotherTubclasseshavebeenestablishedfor Rock Star sailedoverfromFlorida

Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint ROBERT DUNKLEY/WWW.DUNKS.SMUGMUG.COM ROBERT AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

PHOTOS (2): ROBERT DUNKLEY/WWW.DUNKS.SMUGMUG.COM win Susimi’s Above: Try this with your Fountaine Pajot! No? Then into the Mother Tubs with you! Left: Race courses hop- scotched through the islands from Green Turtle Cay (a port of entry) to Elbow Cay, all in the sheltered and shallow Sea of Abaco

DEREK LEE Skipper Michael Carrington said of his course of 8.8 nautical miles, and the RTIA, PHRF and course of 8.8 nautical miles, and the RTIA, PHRF and Multihull Classes course was 12.8 nautical miles. of the day, “It’s our fifth year, so we have some idea of of the day, “It’s our fifth year, so we have some idea of what’s the right place at the right time, but the real secret of our success is crew work with young people. We’re racing with a crew of five teenagers and two dogs. Today we had a wild upwind leg with the wind- ward mark going adrift in a squall, but all the kids were really into it.” —Continued on next page won third place among nine to come back next year!” . The Bolducs said, “We . The Bolducs Latitudes have Latitudes The Marsh Harbour Race, held on July 9th, was More RTIA first-timers were John first-timers were John More RTIA typical: light to moderate breeze, the occasional squall and minimal seas. The Mother Tub classes sailed a boats racing in Mother Tub E Class in the Marsh boats racing in Mother Tub E Class in the Marsh Harbour Race, despite a broken boom, “Now they’re hooked. We’ll do a lot of day and weekend sailing at home in Florida, do a lot of day and weekend sailing at home in Florida, but making the crossing and racing at Abaco has broadened the kids’ horizons tremendously.” And, especially since ing are wonderful — I’m loving it.” ing are wonderful wife and their three kids Bolduc, his and 11 on the 30-foot aged 14, 13 Hunter Zippity to race his Rock Star Keewatin From Long Island, Bahamas, . agrees tries to edge past was a great committee boat. The Ewings in Mother Tubs Class E. Carol explains, “Jack Tampa Girl Continued from previous page Continued from Former full-time cruisers Carol and Jack Ward from Captain Roger Carrol, who took time out from work- Also new for RTIA 2008 was holding that day’s prizegiv- One of the innovations at this year’s event appar- at this year’s event One of the innovations first RTIA on his cousin Janet Harding’s Pearson 33 Harding’s EZ Dock, Roger says, “The Abacos are great. All the people rac- South Carolina raced their Island Packet 40 ing on the 72-foot Alden schooner ing at the party after every race. The unique daily prizes — small bronze sculptures of dolphins, sharks and other marine life mounted on wooden plaques — were made by local artist Pete Johnston of Little Harbour. Doo Dah and I have done the Newport to Bermuda Race and the Charleston to Bermuda Race, and one of our crew sug- gested Abaco. It’s great! Tuesday’s race was exciting with a very close start.” She notes, “The trip from Charleston via Fort Pierce was beautiful, although there wasn’t much wind so we motored a lot. There are five or six other boats from Charleston, and we brought sailing friends as crew.” Her crew Pam adds, “I can’t believe we’re having so much fun.” “It’s our first time in Abaco,” Carol says, “but not our last!” hull class with zippy little trimarans. Race Committee hull class with zippy little trimarans. Race Committee co-chair Carol Ewing had the innovative idea to put this year’s small handful of cats in the Mother Tub fleet and the let the three tris duke it out in Multihull Class. Her co-chair and husband Jon says, “It’s working out great.” Carol and Jon’s Gulfstar 44 trawler, Great Scott, were ably assisted by Barbara Dwyer taking times and John Lowe helping set marks. ently solved the perennial problem (unless there are perennial problem (unless ently solved the of having big, for separate classes) sufficient entries same multi- catamarans racing in the relatively slow — The RTIA classes saw some close-in spinnaker duels. Here AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 ing isjustgreat,”saysRochelle. overall inRTIAClass.“It’salongregatta,buttherac- and 28, cametoraceontwofriends’boats, Amy Pearcethatusuallyraces team includingRochelleYates,KarenMinetteand too. FromFlorida’sMelbourneYachtClub,awomen’s sailing,” Jilliansays.“It’ssomuchfun.” “I thinkit’sshockingyoudon’tseemoreyoungpeople the Pearson30 Jillian, fromMelbourneBeach,Florida,wasracingon helps calltacticsandworkthespinnaker.Herfriend time inAbaco,racingontheSweden37whereshe Laser racerbackhomeinKansas.Thiswashersecond The grown-upfemaleswereoutinforceatAbaco, One of Rock Star - HurricaneMoorings - Minimarket,CarRental,Laundry - Fuel&Gasoline - Showers,Lounge,Pool,Restaurants,Bar Webcam, Wi-Fi - 230/110V (50/60Hz), Water, - Customs&Immigration and15draft - 60slipsforboatsupto120feet Marina & Yachtclub Susimi’s , theC&C115thatemergedvictorious Abaco Glow teenagecrew,HopeWinkler,isa Le Phare Bleu Marina withskipperAndyBurke. Mouse , aLindenberg Abaco Glow

business inthesummermonths,”Cornishsays. ing nicheandservedasacatalysttoencouraging from Charlestonthisyear. back withmyfriends”was.Hebroughtfiveotherboats South Carolinasailorwholeftlastyearsaying,“I’llbe special prizewasgiveninhonorofthefactthatone They lettheirfriendsknow,too.”Atthisyear’sRTIA,a kinds ofvisitorswhowillsustainusforalongtime. commit tocomingfortheregatta,andtheseare ing. Boatingisastablepartoftheeconomy.People Tourist Officenotes:“Weappreciateavidsailorscom- past 15years.DonCornish,DirectoroftheAbaco Ministry ofTourismhassponsoredthisregattaforthe tion tothemanycommercialsponsors,Bahamas became RTIA’snewsponsoringrumthisyear.Inaddi-

“Thiseventhasfacilitatedthegrowthofourboat- A MountGay“redcap”eventinthepast,Bacardi SALLY ERDLE SALLY April, lookingforideas“toinject traveled toAntiguaSailWeekin Member WynsomeFerguson Saunders andCommittee them backyearafteryear.”Ruth an experiencethatwillbring better event,givingourvisitors making RegattaTimeinAbacoa Regatta. Wewanttocontinue now Christmas,Easterand the highpointsofyearare 1976, summerswereslow,but “When theregattastartedin Regatta Time….” same intheAbacoswithout A summerwouldnotbethe in ordertoenjoythefestivities. siasts thatscheduletheirvisit well asthemanysailingenthu- participating inthiseventas the amountofrepeatboaters dards isbestevidencedthrough and maintainingitshighstan- organizing thiseventeveryyear “The committee’ssuccessin

Commodore Ralphsays, Petite CalivignyBay, St.George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS12°00‘11N /61°43‘29W DUNKLEY/WWW.DUNKS.SMUGMUG.COM ROBERT PHRF Classwin success inanoverall the secretof way! Youthpowerwas Bottom: Showingthe and Maddie and (backrow)Jillian Hope, FreddieandRose, left toright)Sam,KK, ties. Hereare(frontrow, together atthedailypar- from differentboatsgot water, teenagedcrew Top: Competitorsonthe dayatthePool-BarRestaurant - breakfast,lunchanddinnerservedall lighthouseship - ﬁnediningonaunique,historical Restaurants Susimi’s

year’s datesvisithttp://regattatimeinabaco.com. comfortable andfun.Formoreinformationnext made Office, IslandBreezesMotel,andeveryoneelsewho be bringingtheirownkidshere,too. sailors whoracedinRegattaTimeAbaco2008will stay tunedformoreinnovations. not beboredwiththesamethingyearafteryear,”so new lifeintoRegattaTimeinAbacosothatpeoplewill Mother TubsFirstPlace Special thankstoalltheRTIAcrew,AbacoTourist We’ll betthatinsomefuturesummer,theyoung GUANACAYRACE TheBahamas GREENTURTLERACE MotherTubsC 3) 2) 1) Multihull Class TheBahamas 3) 2) 1) PHRF Class 3) TheBahamas 2) 1) RTIA Class Louise Sinderella HOPE TOWNRACE Monkey’s Uncle MARSH HARBOURRACE TheBahamas Harding’s EZDock MAN-O-WAR RACE Larkspur GUANA CAYRACE Abaco Glow GREEN TURTLERACE Mother TubsE Ragtime HOPE TOWNRACE Shenanigan MARSH HARBOURRACE Shenanigan MAN-O-WAR RACE ColinWhittaker,USA Sempre Amantes GUANA CAYRACE Backdraft GREEN TURTLERACE Mother TubsD Skylark HOPE TOWNRACE Dancing Girls MARSH HARBOURRACE Skylark MAN-O-WAR RACE Odin Overdo Bad Boys Evolution Tanglefoot Buena Vida Susimi Tampa Girl Blue Moon Rock Star Compass’s , Jensen40,CarloMorato,USA , Buzzard’sBay,ChrisThompson, OOverall Winners , Morgan45,RonaldPolin,USA , Morgan45,RonaldPolin,USA , Gulfstar44,JohnWright,USA , Sweden37,MichaelCarrington,GBR , CorsairF28R,JohnNovak,USA , Hinkley40,TomCarpenter,USA , Nonsuch33,MikeKramer,USA , Catalina25,RobertFritz,USA v , CorsairF28R,KathrynGarlick,USA , C&C155,TimTucker,USA , Corsair28R,BobHarkrider,USA , Pearson30,AndyBurke,USA , Gulfstar50,BradfordLaw,USA , Gulfstar50,BradfordLaw,USA , Morgan35,AndrewWilhoyte, , Beneteau47.7,OliverLiddell, , J/120,WilliamTerry,USA e , Sabre36,DavidRodate,USA , FountainePajot,GeorgeFloyd,USA visittoAbaconotonlypossible,but r Winners , Hunter45,CarterQuillen,USA

, HunterPassage42, a , Pearson33,JanetHarding, l [email protected] l

www.lepharebleu.com W phone 4734442400 i n n VHF CH16 e r s AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

SALLY ERDLE SALLY ERDLE

REBECCA BURG/WWW.ARTOFFSHORE.COM skipper and crew celebrating at Susimi’s Top: Thrilling Junkanoo bands were a post-race hit Middle: The sponsors did not stint Below: Wednesday’s prize party

t r d DAVE RALPH/WWW.ABACONIAN.COM ck to the a ves go an l p , rumor has i emse leep h et t l y ll et some s g o ly t milies took their kids b a , too. And while some of the Mothe , too. And while some of the y ance to rea The gala final awards party was held was held The gala final awards party art hat others celebrated till dawn. Whew! hat others celebrated till dawn. ch p Tub f boat ear t Copious quantities of the sponsors’ bever- Copious quantities on and vendors were ages were available, there with down-home culi- hand here and such as conch salad, barbe- nary offerings lobster tails with peas cue, and deep-fried on sale at some venues, and rice. Also T-shirts of course, were along with regatta like straw and shell-work. local handicrafts give-aways of regatta There were abundant other goodies, along with caps, bags and the daily prizes. pool at around the seaside swimming Lodge on Elbow pretty Hope Town Harbour were many tri- Cay. As expected, there many losses umphs celebrated and winning skip- mourned, while at least one sent for a per inevitably ended up being by his crew. fully clothed victory swim five yacht-race Finally, after a marathon of the Regatta days and at least eight parties, had the Committee and all their helpers go and chance to really let themselves of the Mother party, too. And while some back to the Tub families took their kids rumor has it boat early to get some sleep, Whew! that others celebrated till dawn. e g n at ar he of o and and ll uit g . Then, amian amian of dance- Top: Beachside festivities at Guana Cay after Race Two from Green Turtle Cay Bottom: Did anyone mention that there were also hot dogs at the Cheeseburger bash? h ety ayers, to t l Ba d rom mellow f

g on Guana Cay; bands. saw p ll g in l y; g g g Stranded Naked Wines & Spirits, a l you want to kick off a regatta you want to kick sailors, giving with happy cheeseburg- away 1,200 free pounds of ers, a hundred y costume Bristo

d REBECCA BURG/WWW.ARTOFFSHORE.COM REBECCA er’s Bar & Gri an h s, to the grin-inducing Browntip Rak s, to the grin-inducing Browntip t-pounding drums, bells and whistles itiona rties featured a wide vari ies at Snappa’s Bar & Grill, Crossin ies at Snappa’s Bar & Grill, live music ran kanoo marchin c Scrape musica at Abaco island. r e t a d e n a abb d Parties featured a wide variety of dance- Parties featured a wide variety A high standard had been set for the set for the A high standard had been able live music ranging from mellow guitar able live music ranging from Browntip Rake tunes, to the grin-inducing players, to the and Scrape musical saw heart-pounding drums, bells and whistles of traditionally costumed Bahamian Junkanoo marching bands. numerous lay-day parties and daily race and daily race numerous lay-day parties follow. Festivities prizegiving celebrations to feast were a included in this truly movable Point and a fête street party at Settlement Marina, both on at Green Turtle Club and get-together at Green Turtle Cay; a Guana Cay; and Grabber’s Bar & Grill on Grill, Crossing parties at Snappa’s Bar & & Spirits, all on Beach and Bristol Wines Great Abaco island. french fries, a hundred gallons of rum rum a hundred gallons of french fries, on gallons of Margaritas punch and hundred cer- of sea-lapped sand a gorgeous stretch just right tone. And that’s tainly sets the at the July 3rd “Cheeseburger what happened on Fiddle Cay, Abaco, in Paradise Party” Henderson sponsored by Bobb and Patricia of the houseboat on the beach, after four hours of partying in Abaco 2008 participants in Regatta Time Whew! had their skippers’ briefing. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 for Year Sixth a in Row! — Cup atPremier’s Title Retains St. Thomas says, “Weendedupmakingalotofmistakes—colli- the leadwithTeamBVIsecond. first day’sfiveraces,TeamTrinidad&Tobagowasin years withthisyear’swin.However,attheendof on thesecondday,whichishowtheywon.” very wellonbothdays,buttheydidn’tmakemistakes much keenercompetitionthisyear.St.Thomassailed 12th and13th. sailed outofNannyCayMarina,inTortola,BVI,July Youth Regatta,formerlytheChiefMinister’sCup, skilled competitionatthe10thannualPremier’sCup winning teamstayedthesamedespitesomevery QUIET CLEAN POWER Rian Bareuther,tacticianforTeamSt.Thomas, Team St.Thomasextendeditswinningstreaktosix Tom Gerker,regattaorganizer,says,“Therewas The formatchangedandsodidthename,but a long life in a bullet proof package. a longlife inabulletproof ina6literengineensures Generating 135hpat amodest2600rpm make theM135acost effectivemake choice withsignificantowner savings over alternative engines. pricing, Competitive engineandparts and exceptionally intervals low service fuelconsumption extended integral plate inthetoughest sealsgivingprotection oil cooler conditions. and specialcrankshaft temperatures for exceptionally reliable anddurable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an heatexchange Highcapacity tubestacksensure equipmentwithcupro-nickel low component operating points ineithersingleortwininstallations. designed to permit awiderange ofoperating anglesandalsooffers easyaccess to allroutine servicing The M135isanexcellent repower choice. initsclass, packages Oneofthemostcompact ithasbeen new 'QUADRAM' combustion system andfullyclosedbreather system. costs.service It’s operator andenvironment friendlywithlow noiseandlow emissions achieved withthe This naturally aspirated engineboastspremium enginefeatures for reliability, minimaldown timeand by CarolBareuther Sabre M135 Sabre (36.75 points)fourthandSt.Croix(37fifth.The second, theBVI(30points)finishedthird,St.Lucia win inGoldFleetandTrinidad&Tobago(29.25points) shifty andwavyconditions.” result ofinexperienceandnotbeingaccustomedtothe three badracesduetosomemistakeswemadeasa sailed anIC24before.” boat tosailandnotmentionnoneofushadever was thefirsttimethiscrewhadallgottogetheronone performance oftheteamwasexcellentconsideringthis comments, “Wehadaverygoodfirstday.Infact,the down tothird.” One resultedinaDSQanddroppedus day andfinishedwithacoupleofprotests. sions, foulsonmarkroundings—thefirst M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti M65 M92BM115TM135M225Ti M265Ti In finalresults,followingSt.Thomas’s(24points) Leighton adds,“However,onthesecondday,wehad Stuart Leighton,aboardTeamTrinidad&Tobago, left toright:CoachChristineThompson,BVIPremierRalphT.O’Neal Spencer Winkles,OlinDavis,WilliamBailey,TylerRice.Frontrow, Below: Backrow,lefttoright:TeamSt.Thomas:RianBareuther, Left: TeamSt.Thomasundersail Call uson (284)4942830for adealernearyou. year. We’llsee.” we thinkthatitwillbefresherifdoeveryother unteers, mostofwhomhavedonethisfortenyears, explains, “Duetoaseverelyburned-outgroupofvol- sary prizegiving. event isnamed,helpedwiththisyear’s10thanniver- a long-timesupporterKATSBVIandforwhomthis advent ofthisregatta.TheHonorableRalphT.O’Neal, more thanadecadeagoandthisiswhatledtothe KATS (KidsandtheSea)BVI,aseamanshipprogram, pretty high.” thing buttheoddsofteamcomingfirstwouldbe boat andhavingsomeexperience,notpromisingany- excellent. Ifweweretogoagain,nowhavingsailedthe of sleepingintentsamongsttheotherteamswas meeting peoplewasreallynice.Thewholeexperience a greatexperience;beingaroundotherteamsand mote worldpeaceandunderstanding.” sponsored eventandoneofRotary’sgoalsistopro- future politicalandbusinessleaders.ThisisaRotary hopefully lastwellintotheircareers.Theyarethe islands andnations,establishadialoguethatwill and womentomeettheircounterpartsfromother the reasonsforstartingit.Wewantyoungmen aspect isveryimportantforthiseventandwasoneof a shotatwalkingoffwithprize,”saysGerker. nine islandnationsintoaGoldFleetandSilverFleet. on thefirstdaythatwereusedtodivideteamsfrom points) thirdandBequia(32.5fourth. with Anguilla(24.5points)second,PuertoRico(27.5 Cayman Islands(12.25points)wontheSilverFleet,

The nextPremier’sCupisplannedfor2010.Gerker The RotaryClubofTortolainitiatedandsponsored Trinidad &Tobago’sLeightonsays,“Thiseventwas More thanjustsailing,Gerkeradds,“Thefellowship “This newformatenabledtheweakerteamstohave A newformatthisyearsawthreepreliminaryraces CHISTINE THOMPSON (2) THOMPSON CHISTINE AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 , which is great for the Explorer success has proved that any form of , the world’s fastest eco-boat, has , the world’s fastest eco-boat, is a 24-metre tri-hull wavepiercer built in Bio-Boat Breaks World Speed Record Bio-Boat Breaks World Speed Earthrace Earthrace Skipper Pete Bethune, a former oil worker, has dedi- TTSA Gives Awards, Announces New Circuit The 2007-2008 Racing Season at the Trinidad & on next page —Continued But with stronger and steadier winds, Sunday proved and steadier winds, Sunday But with stronger made their way back After racing, all of the teams Cary Byerley at For more information contact Earthrace’s smashed the world speed record for a powerboat to smashed the world speed record completing the 24,000-kilo- circumnavigate the globe, 23 hours and 49 minutes. metre journey in just 60 days, finish line in Spain on The boat, which crossed the June 27th, completed the journey using 100-percent biofuel to demonstrate and draw global attention to the potential for alternative fuel sources. New Zealand, run by a team of international volunteers including engineer Tino de Freitas from Guyana. “Pit stops” in the Caribbean were made at San Juan, Puerto Rico and Colon, Panama. cated the past six years of his life towards reaching his goal of smashing the record using biodiesel. He says, “ transport, including marine, can be non-damaging to the environment as well as being high performance.” Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) culminated in the annual Prize Giving Dinner and Dance held at TTSA on Saturday evening, June 28th. in Saturday’s last race. in Saturday’s last The final different day for all sailors. to be an entirely of the down to the last race as most placing came other. In the within four points of each top teams were while local Mike Green placed third, end, St. Lucia’s place finish. walked away with a second sailor Frits Bus place overall, Amon brought home first Trinidad’s Paul He said, “I in the last race of the day. including a first good as the the partying was just as had a lot of fun; since last year and that sailing. We changed tactician We are now back to sailing made a big improvement. helped.” Mike Green with our regular crew and that sailing one-design commented, “It is always nice Caribbean, and I boats against the best in the enjoyed being on the changing boats. This spectators and for the teams and it shows.” event is always well organized for lunch and prizegiv- to the Sint Maarten Yacht Club ing at the Spinnaker Bar & Grill. [email protected]. Each of 14 teams sailed a total of nine races over sailed a total of nine races Each of 14 teams amazing Martinique came up with an Eric Baray of like the ladies’ team By the end of the day it looked the course of two days as shifting winds made it diffi- two days as shifting winds made the course of implement any of their well-thought- cult for them to host island, Seven teams were from the out strategies. the BVI, from Trinidad (2), St. Lucia, with others coming proved and Martinique. Saturday St. Barths, Curaçao six or with each team completing the most grueling winner race coughed up a new seven races. Every wins. had back-to-back first place and no team When his jib halyard win. Early on he had the lead. he used his main top- broke, using his quick thinking dropping behind, ping lift to replace it and, after finish in first place. managed to climb back to was sitting in a headed by Emma Paull of Tortola races. Andrea good spot to start off Sunday’s also looking good, hav- Scarabelli of St. Maarten was off a first place finish ing sailed consistently and pulling

Trini Team Tops Caribbean Keelboat Championship Trini Team Tops Caribbean winds and tight com- Heather Tackling reports: High

NEWS REGATTA Lookin’ fine in one-design. The Caribbean Keelboat Champs’ title went to the Trinidad team headed by Paul Amon Lookin’ fine in one-design. The Caribbean Keelboat Champs’ petition made for a great weekend of sailing June petition made for a great weekend Keelboat 21st and 22nd at the Caribbean in St. Maarten. The event, Championship regatta, held Yacht Club, was raced in hosted by the Sint Maarten Sailboat Rental. boats provided by Lagoon AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 youths werealsogivengiftvouchersandcapscourte- coveted awardsfortheYouthSailors.Thesesuccessful for movementfromoneregattatoanother. pation attheseregattas,allowingforadequatetime and Tobagoeventsareexpectedtoincreasepartici- Trinidad Carnival.ThenewdatesfortheCarriacou dates —movingfromApriltoFebruary,justprior Tobago SailWeek,whichwillalsochangetonew (January 30ththroughFebruary3rd),andthen to January,followedbytheGrenadaSailingFestival Series, previouslyheldinNovemberandnowmoved plans foraSouthernCaribbeanRacingCircuitin2009. three millionTTdollars. 2000, theCancerBenefitRegattahasraisedover successful fundraisingevent:sinceitsinceptionin Calder Hartforhistremendouseffortsinmakingthisa praised CancerBenefitRegattaCommitteeChairman season, notablytheCancerBenefitRegatta.He members andmadementionofsomehighlightsthe and themuch-anticipatedoverallresultsforseason. — The PrizeGivingCeremonybeganwiththefourmost The newCircuitwillincludetheCarriacouSailing Vice PresidentofTTSA,JeromeMcQuilkin,outlined President ofTTSA,DavidLeightonwelcomedthe Yacht crewsgatheredatreservedtablesfordinner Continued frompreviouspage John Holland,skipperof in theirclass. ners wereawarded“BoatoftheYear”trophies overall ineachofthefourclasses,andwin- Committee, announcedthetopthreeyachts results of17races.Mark“Fish”Loe,Race WesleyScott announced thewinners: Chairman oftheDinghyCommittee, sy BudgetMarine(Trinidad)Ltd.PeterKnox, Racer-Cruiser (Spinnaker)1Class: &Syndicate Navigator Class: BrendaFarfan Racer-Cruiser 2Class: PeterMorris The “Skipper of the Year” trophy was awarded to The “SkipperoftheYear”trophywasawardedto Racing Class: BOAT OFTHEYEARFIRSTPLACEWINNERS The overallpositionswerecalculatedbythe Dinghy SkipperoftheYear:JamesLeighton MylesKaufmann Best OptimistSkipper(under12years): Best OptimistSkipper(12to15years): Best FemaleDinghySkipper:Kelly-AnnArrindell YOUTH SAILINGRESULTS(DINGHIES) Mojo Mariposa , Marc De Verteuil , MarcDeVerteuil Business Machine Business Machine , S.Guilland Morning Tide . Not only . Notonly , , , Below: SLYC’sjuniorsailors—everyone’sawinner at TTSA’sannualawards Left: Thecrewof ages rangedfromeightto13years. given overthepasttwoschoolterms.Thejuniorsailors’ arranged theeventtoconcludesailinginstruction Benjamin ToddandjuniorcoachTeresaAylott competing againsteachother.Seniorsailingcoach gramme. Thiswasanopenevent,withgirlsandboys for theyoungstersofSt.LuciaSailingTrainingpro- Lucia YachtClubInauguralOptimistChampionships erage ofthesportsailing. races, andtothemembersofmediafortheircov- enthusiasm andsportsmanship. pated ineveryraceandJohnwasrecognisedforhis were hisresultsoutstanding,but Ted Bullreports:June28thsawthestartofSt. St. LuciaYachtClub’sFirstOptiChampionships Special thanksweregiventothesponsorsof Business Machine Business Machine —Continued onnextpage

partici- AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Reigning champion Raul Rios of Puerto Rico retained Raul Rios of Puerto Rico Reigning champion invited to team had been specially The Singaporean —Continued on next page Championship of the International Optimist Dinghy of the International Optimist Championship in Curaçao on July 5th. Association ended final race. If narrowest of margins in the his title by the of the race or if Rachel Lee he had not won their positions registered another bullet, Singapore had reversed. 2006 North American would have been Russell Kan Aponte and Singapore’s champion Ivan very much in contention. were also still event, and with three of raise the level of sailing at the they certainly did that. their four sailors in the top ten the leader- Otherwise the Caribbean dominated two USVI sailors and board, with four Puerto Ricans, in the top ten. Ard van Aanholt from Curaçao www.curacaomarine.com Raul Rios of Puerto Rico retained his title of North American Optimist Champion in extremely close competition Raul Rios of Puerto Rico retained his title of North American this year in Curaçao. Young sailors from a record 25 countries participated Sponsors for these events were numerous and events were numerous Sponsors for these 2008 Puerto Ricans Dominate OPTINAM The North American Marjolein van Aanholt reports: with SLYC, was made by organizing director Lily made by organizing director with SLYC, was session made the point that the training Bergasse. She all regret los- been outstanding and we this year had team. ing our coaching Ltd, Renwick Diary, Home Services included Ferrand’s Ulrich Jonathan Everette, Ted Bull, & Company, Lovell Renwick, Edgar Roe, Conrad Meixner, Cheryl is given as A big “Thank You” and Franck Chevrier. involved in making the well to all volunteers Day a success. Particular Championship and the Fun Danielle, who mention is also to SLYC’s photographer, Her pictures can be has captured both occasions. viewed at www.stluciayachtclub.com. Safe dry storage with 24 hours security II Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Curaçao Marine Curaçao graced the event as the Committee Boat. The as the Committee Boat. graced the event New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Continued from previous page Continued from Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 A special presentation to departing coaches Ben, Fun Day saw about 20 young participants divided Prizegiving for the Championship Regatta was held Prizegiving for the Championship The longest courses took approximately 40 minutes The longest courses took approximately — with a forecast of northeasterly The day dawned - Long-term storage. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting and many other services. We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad.

Teresa and Fredric on completion of their contract into two co-ed teams: “Pirates of the Caribbean” and into two co-ed teams: “Pirates of the Caribbean” and “The High Spirits”. Coach Ben showed his inventive nature and produced a fun-filled day while Lily headed the organization assisted by junior coaches Teresa and Freddy and other willing helpers. Lunch was laid on by the SLYC restaurant staff and helpers. Following the prizegiving for SLYC’s Inaugural Optimist Championships, the teams continued with an afternoon of games including the Sailing Baseball event sailed in 12 Optimists. The High Spirits won the day and individual prizes were distributed to all. on July 5th at the End of Season Fun Day at the St. on July 5th at the End of Season were Thomas Lucia Yacht Club. Overall winners Meixner in first place, Stephanie Lovell second, and Marcus Sweeney third. In the girls’ division, winners were Stephanie Lovell first, Raina Bergassse second, and Marion Bardief third. The top prize in the Under 12s went to Marc Spurway. The St. Lucia Yacht Club Best Junior Helmsperson Trophy was donated by Edgar Roe and won by Fredric Sweeney. to complete and all racers, identified with a num- to complete and all racers, stayed the pro- bered bib over their lifejackets, races were shortened to gramme. The third and sixth came with heavy gusts. combat the weather, which (coach Ben Todd and Having on-the-water judges away with the usual assistant Fredric Sweeney) did Infringements and time-consuming protest hearings. immediately and with their penalties were settled spoke highly of the train- creditable discipline, which all the helpers in this suc- ing. Credit must be given to the organizing com- cessful regatta and in particular and Sailing Instructor mittee of Senior Coach Ben from Ted, Danielle, Uli Teresa, with a helping hand and Lily. Restless races (three planned for a possible six race instructions with the and three in the afternoon) in the morning ten eager The event attracted option of a discard. and a heavy down- competitors despite the forecast pour just at registration time. winds of 18 knots with heavier gusts and occasional with heavier gusts and winds of 18 knots using the it was decided to proceed rain showers, so boats were of Rodney Bay. Two safety sheltered side yacht the event. The sailing manned throughout AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 options. Class40sandIRCyachtswillhavethesame looking foramorechallengingracethanthecurrent forward toattractingIRCyachts,especiallythose launched onaregularbasis.Theraceisalsolooking over 70yachtsbuilttodateandmorebeing This isthefastestgrowingfleetofoceanracers,with the WestIndies. ing shipsthatpliedundersailbetweenBritishportsand Solent innearly50yearsfollowstherouteoftrad- classic route.Thefirstnewtrans-oceanraceoutofthe als lookingforcrewpositions,bothpaidandpaying. ries frompeoplewantingtocharterboatsandindividu- well asboatswantingtorace,therehavebeenenqui- Norway, SouthAfrica,Germany,FranceandtheUK.As Interest hascomefromcountriesincludingChina, from Class40andIRCyachts,moreareexpected. ing inGrenada,hashadnearly20seriousenquiries Race, startingonNovember15thinEnglandandfinish- American OptimistChampionshipin2009. optinam2008.org. be seenthroughtheracetrackingsystematwww. an OPTINAMnottobeforgotten.The12racescanstill fireworks anddanceshowsbyOptimistsailors,thiswas Willemstad andtherockingclosingceremonywith tracking system,plustheopeningincenterof from fivecontinentsandthepremiereofrace surprised everybodybywinningthesilver. American championship.ButhostNetherlandsAntilles Lewis (USA). to MorganKiss(USA),NikkiBarnes(USVI)andChristina bronze, whiletheclosedNorthAmericanprizeswent Kamilla Sabogal(Ecuador)tookopensilverand American sailorsLuciaFalasca(Argentina)and raise thelevelofsailing,puttingfivesailorsintop50. World ChampionintheOptimistclass,managedto remarkable progress.CoachMartinJenkins,twotimes is sponsoredbySevenIslandInvestments,showed from 25countries.TheNetherlandsAntillesteam,which Barbados allfiguringinthetop60of204-boatfleet the DominicanRepublic,Trinidad&Tobagoand — The focusoftheraceisonClass40competitors. The racetoGrenadaisthemodernversionofa Louay Habibreports:AsoftheendJune,Spice New SpiceRaceAttractsEntries The DominicanRepublicwillorganizetheNorth With arecordof25participatingcountries,sailors In theteamracing,PuertoRicoretainedNorth In thegirls’rankingitwasadifferentstory.South Other islandsalsoshowedpromise,withsailorsfrom Continued frompreviouspage

race, inspectionandentertainment.Therewillbean tracking beacons,dockagebeforeandafterthe installation andmonitoringofthenecessarysafety/ the estimateis£2950perboat,whichwillinclude remain asreasonablepossible.Atthispointintime, ence!), giftsandthelike. sandwiches andcoldbeeraremycrew’sprefer- regardless ofthearrivaltime,withfreshfood(steak pating willsupport‘their’boatsandwelcomethemin, idea IgotfrommyonlyTranspacRace.Thosepartici- we arearrangingan“adoptayacht”programme, ment. WithlocalgroupsandbusinessesinGrenada renowned foritsparties,isworkingontheentertain- ing accommodation.TrueBlueResort,whichis hotels, suchasLalunaandTheCalabash,arearrang- free yachtservicesandnewsails.Someofthetop come. Prizeshavealreadybeenofferedintheformof know well.Iamsurethefleetwillenjoyasuperbwel- hotels andbusinessesontheisland,manyofwhomI before theyachtsdisperse. George’s includingamini-regattaandentertainment people whenyouarriveinSt.George’s.” all atrulyhospitablewelcomefromourwonderful the sailorswhorace,wecandefinitelyguaranteeyou we canonlywishforfairwindsandasafejourney ship withyachtsandthesailingcommunity.Whereas “Grenada hasenjoyedalongandsuccessfulrelation- firmed updetailsofourreceptioninGrenada.” both thePrimeMinisterandofTourism they couldbesailingintheCaribbean.Imetwith Nobody wantedtokeeptheiryachtsinEuropewhen see itasagreatopportunitytoracethiswinter. ers inMarbleheadwerekeenontheSpiceRaceand enthusiasm fortheSpiceRace. and Grenadawherehewaspleasedtofindalotof Massachusetts (forthefinishofArtemisTransat) returned fromafact-findingtriptoMarblehead, Grenada. SpiceRaceCEO,TonyLawson,hasjust inspections, theracestartinUKandfinish ing body,willbehostingtheevent:overseeing Royal SouthamptonYachtClubwhich,astheorganiz- cap ratings. boat forboat,IRCyachtsaccordingtotheirhandi- for thepurposeofawardingprizes.Class40swillsail start andcoursebutwillsailastwoseparateclasses Spice Raceisalsotryingtoensurethatentryfees Lawson said,“Ihadagreatresponsefromthelocal Spice RacewillbeputtingonvariouseventsinSt. In alettertotheraceorganizersMinistersaid, “It wasgoodtoknowthatsomeoftheClass40rac- The SpiceRaceisworkinginassociationwiththe November 28thtoSunday30th. Course deL’AlliancewilltakeplacefromFriday the race. and sponsorstotrackthefleet’sprogressthroughout online trackingsystemthatwillenablefamily,friends Sailing inlastyear’stri-islandCoursedeL’Alliance —Continuedonnextpage Organisers haveannouncedthatthe5thAnnual 5th CoursedeL’AllianceSetforNovember28to30 For [email protected]. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

will is to be Sojana Sojana ICAP Leopard skipper Marc , this race with over 13 Sojana’s “This race will appeal to all . Mike Slade’s Elizabeth Jordan, commodore Elizabeth Jordan, The date, 23rd February, has Fitzgerald was one of the RORC Fitzgerald was one of the RORC members who conceived the idea types of offshore sailors, both there monohull and multihull, and con- will be no upper size limit. The ditions in the Caribbean in the February are so perfect that race will attract a wide variety of yachts. Our aim on the first to set the course record.” also join the race to try for the course record. Skipper Chris Sherlock thinks this race will provide a very interesting challenge. races on the offshore circuit.” races on the offshore Club, welcomes of Antigua Yacht to support RORC the opportunity success of the race: to ensure the Yacht Club is excit- “The Antigua of working ed at the prospect a prestigious alongside such the RORC. yacht club as club used their Members of our cre- years of local knowledge to ate a course that was sufficiently to interesting and challenging excite the best offshore race boats around the world.” been chosen to fit in with the major events in the Caribbean calendar. Peter Harrison’s Farr- designed 115 foot ketch the has already agreed to enter race. ICAP Leopard The race is to be run under RORC’s IRC rating rule, A Notice of Race will be issued shortly and a contact [email protected]. “For a boat like legs will be the toughest of the 600-milers we have done and I am sure it will appeal to all the top ocean race boats.” which is used by race boats all over the world. The lower size limit of yacht has yet to be set and consid- eration is being given to have a division run under the CSA (Caribbean Sailing Association) rule. detailed study of the course is available on the RORC website, www.rorc.org. For more information “We are

pleased that RORC members approached us with the pleased that RORC members approached us with the idea to start the first offshore race in Caribbean waters. Preliminary discussion with likely competitors has had a very enthusiastic response. I can see this race joining the Bermuda Race, Rolex Sydney Hobart Race and Rolex Fastnet Race as one of the ‘must do’ one of the world’s classic offshore races: Who needs inflatable buoys when you’ve got islands for marks? The proposed course for the Caribbean’s new ocean-racing event is 605 miles Continued from previous page Continued from RORC Commodore David Aisher says he is delighted The event, conceived by a group of RORC members New Offshore Race for the Caribbean The Caribbean will have a new long-distance off- For more information contact Hervé Dorvil at Marina This year organisers hope to attract some 50 yachts attract some 50 yachts This year organisers hope to The respective yacht clubs each have a hand in The respective yacht clubs Originally conceived in 2004 by Yacht Club Fort in 2004 by Yacht Club Originally conceived As usual, this popular regatta starts in Simpson Bay, regatta starts in Simpson As usual, this popular to be working with Antigua Yacht Club and believes that in time, the RORC Caribbean 600 will become living in the Caribbean, is scheduled to start on February 23rd 2009 outside English Harbour, Antigua. The course first takes the fleet to the north, passing a mark off Barbuda. After taking Nevis and Saba to port and St. Barths to starboard, the fleet will circle St. Martin before heading south to Guadeloupe. After taking Guadeloupe and Desirade to port, they’ll sail back up to a mark off Barbuda before returning to finish in Antigua. The course is a total of 605 nautical miles. shore race series next year: the RORC Caribbean 600, shore race series next year: the RORC Caribbean 600, run by the UK-based Royal Ocean Racing Club and Antigua Yacht Club. Fort Louis [email protected]. and are actively promoting the event throughout the the event throughout the and are actively promoting Islands. There will be six French Antilles and the Virgin Beach Cats, classes: Racing, Cruising, Multihulls, companies. The entry fee Open, and a new class for and includes breakfasts for the regatta is 150 euros on Friday and and dinners for four crewmembers quay in the port of Saturday, dock space at the Fort Louis in Marigot, Gustavia, dockage at Marina A supplement of 50 euros and water taxis in Anguilla. Beach Cat crews is charged for extra crewmembers. are 50 euros each. organising the regatta, however the Sint Maarten organising the regatta, however organiser. Aside from Yacht Club is the technical look forward to the post- excellent racing, sailors also on each island. race parties and entertainment Louis, the regatta aims to promote goodwill and aims to promote goodwill Louis, the regatta of all between the sailing communities camaraderie sailors con- Course de L’Alliance offers three islands. from the sophistica- trasting views of the other islands, charm of Anguilla, tion of St. Barths, to the laid-back to the dynamism of St. Martin. St. Maarten, and follows a triangular course of three follows a triangular course St. Maarten, and Harbour, St. overnight stops at Gustavia legs, taking in leg is from Road Bay. The last Barths, and Anguilla’s Fort Louis at Marigot, Saint-Martin. Anguilla to Marina — AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 closed. ButhavingheardthatCubanbureaucracy Trinidad forclearance,andnobodyknewSantiagowas we hadbeentoldbytwoCubanauthoritiestocome the righthanddoesn’tknowwhatleftwasdoing: week andhadn’tbeenabletoseeanything.Itseemed trated, too.We’dbeeninCubanwatersfornearlya on toCienfuegos. a portofclearanceandwemustimmediatelymove enter Cuba.Hesaidhewassorrybutthisnot told himwewantedinternationalclearanceto climbed aboard. a mileaway.Onarrivalhetookoffhisshoesand coming towardsusfromthehotel/marinaareaabout Customs maninaborrowedTinkerTrampdinghy direction. Lookingoverthebowof utes laterasplashingwasheardfromtheopposite Customs dock,waitingforsignsoflife.About90min- (finally)” beer.Sittinginthecockpitwestaredat made theirwayoverto we putourdinghiesintothewaterandChrisTony the Customsofficewasandwaited.Inmeantime Trinidad, weanchorednearwhereourpilotbooksaid to SausageThermidor. were conspicuousbytheirabsence.Wehadtoresort Unfortunately, fishermenandanythingshrimp-like some fishermanonourtravelsthroughthecays. readily availableandwerelookingforwardtomeeting or shouldn’tgoashore.We’dheardthatlobsterwere to Trinidad,hamperedthoughbythefactwecouldn’t and saidwecouldstay. said hewouldcontacthisbossandcallback.Hedid, waters untilrested,butwoulddosoatdaybreak.He I considereditdangeroustotravelthroughthese we wereonlytwopeopleandunderthecircumstances said wecouldnotstayandshouldmoveon.Iexplained leave firstthinginthemorningafterresting.Againhe added thatTrinidadwasourdestinationandwewould stood, wasnotaninternationalportofclearance.I told SantiagowasclosedandManzanillo,asweunder- Trinidad forclearance.Iinformedhimthatwe’dbeen we shouldmakeourwaytoSantiago,Manzanilloor before movingon.Hesaidthatwasnotpossibleand Customs, onlytoanchoroutsideovernightforarest entry. Isaidthatwewerenotintendingtoclear we couldnotentertherebecauseitisaportof Cuban coastguardonVHFchannel16.Theytoldus our yellow“quarantine”flagandwerecalledbythe the revolutionaryperiod.WepassedCaboCruzflying the Cape,madefamousbyFidelCastro’slandingin most tipofCuba’scoast. area), beforecrossingovertoCaboCruz,thesouthern- decided tosailPortAntonio,Jamaica(abeautiful closed, atleasttoforeign-flaggedvessels.Wetherefore Cuba, butwediscoveredthisportwascurrently June 2008issueof Vache, Haiti[see“Haiti:AStepBackinTime”the Jamaica. WehadoriginallyplannedtoleaveIle-à- a fewweeksrecently.Ourjourneycontinuedonfrom friends ChrisandTonyon to thoseplanningvisitCuba. summary ofourvisit,whichIhopewillbeinterest interpret foreignculturesdifferently.Sothisismy months, butweallhavedifferentexperiencesand By thistimewewerenotonlydisappointedbutfrus- “Buenas tardes,”hesaid.“Whatdoyouwant?”I On arrivalintheportofCasildacity We madeseveralstopsattheoutercaysonway We arrivedatPlayaColorado,thebeachjustbehind My wifeYvonneandIaboard A lothasbeenwrittenaboutCubaduringthepast DESTINATIONS Compass Chaser Waylander ], andsailtoSantiagode fora“welcometoCuba Chaser II Chaser touredCubafor andour we sawa arrived. “Sanidad”wasfirst,makingsurewehadno are here. Cuba andCienfuegos!”theyshouted.So,finally,we dockmaster andsecuritypersonnel.“Welcometo and listeningonanAmericanVHFchannel)bythe no answersowejustwentin. given tousbywebsitesandguidebooks,butreceived called themarinabyradio,tryingallsortsofnames waved usthrough,tellingtogothemarina.We sign saidaswemotoredpasttheGuardiaCosta.They cent hugebay.“WelcometoSocialistCuba”thebigred Cienfuegos throughanarrowchannelintomagnifi- we sleptandleftinthemorning.Wearrivedat radio. Weneverheardanythingfromhimafterthat,so prepared toleaveinthedarkandwithoutsleep. ble forthesafetyofmyvesselandcrewwasnot ately. Itoldhimthatwasnotpossible:amresponsi- the officerapologizedandsaidwemustleaveimmedi- we’ll sleepandleavefirstthinginthemorning.”Again could be“difficult”westayedcalmandsaid,“Okay, We were(finally)officiallywelcomedtoCubaattheportofCienfuegos Once weweretiedupandsettled,theonslaught We weregreetedatthemarina(nowcalledMarlin, He saidhe’dspeaktohisbossandletusknowby Cuba, asWe FoundIt by PhilChapman ship’s power supply and can’t be removed. He wasn’t ship’s powersupplyandcan’tberemoved.Hewasn’t However, oursatphoneispermanentlywiredtothe said itshouldbehandedin,asanyweapons. man wasconcernedaboutoursatellitephone.He Republic —theycameandwent.OneitemtheCustoms waits, noaskingforbribesor“tips”asintheDominican easy. Yes,thereweremanypeopleinvolved,butnolong would bedifficultbutwhenitfinallyhappenedwas legally inCubaatlast.Weweretoldtheclearing (three inonecase). polite andefficient,alllikingacoldieortwo as didtheImmigrationandCustomsofficers.Allvery were checkedandthesnifferdogshadalookround, aboard, whichtheydulydid.Ourfruitandvegetables able fortheveterinaryandCustomspeopletocome plague orotherdiseaseandthattheboatwassuit- —Continuedonnextpage Guns, ofcourse,mustbeleftwithCustoms. ably bestsimplynottomentiononeifyouhaveit. from hislistofelectronicswehadonboard.It’sprob- allowed ittoremaininservice,thoughhedidremove happy withthisarrangementbutafteraquietchathe Then they slowly made their way ashore, leaving us Then theyslowlymadetheirwayashore,leavingus AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS to our next despacho TOHATSU to the next port. This is very straightfor- to the next port. This is Santiago de Cuba, Cienfuegos, Cayo Largo and Cuba, Cienfuegos, Cayo Santiago de left hand above, it does appear the As mentioned of each port and get a Yachts have to clear out Cuba was not knowingOur problem when leaving Customs and Immigration Customs and Cuban port and not international clearance. Our experience said that the authorities in the next country would probably understand, but nevertheless we decided to clear out of Cuba in Cienfuegos. By this time we had seen a lot of the sights by car. —Continued on next page Marina Hemingway (Havana) are ports of entry, (Havana) are ports Marina Hemingway our Cuban closes one. Soon after unless someone re-opened. visit, Santiago the right is doing. often doesn’t know what who cleared us in were Nevertheless, the individuals Upon arrival in efficient and very professional. were aboard, papers filled Cienfuegos, all the officials witnessed, all within a out, documents signed and any hassle or problems couple of hours and without apart from the sat phone question. despacho assist whatever the time ward and Immigration will of day. re-opened. If not, wewhether or not Santiago had internationally there. Wewouldn’t be able to clear out options. One was totherefore considered two possible then head backclear out internationally at Cienfuegos go ashore and see any ofeast, again not being able to Or, we could hopethe towns or sites en route. wasn’t, we’d risk arrivingSantiago was open. But if it a in Haiti or Jamaica with only the Cuba we managed to encounter. I hope this will managed to encounter. I the Cuba we Remember, cruisers planning a visit. help any other based on below are only my opinion, the above and personal experience. FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water Scaffolding Guadeloupe F.W.I.

[email protected] (filters, impellers, belts) Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110 E-mail: GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants So on to aspects of our travels and experiences, of our travels and So on to aspects governments. Even the US and the UK would find it Even the US and the UK governments. of living, but maintain any standard impossible to Cuba has, almost. impression of in order to illustrate our which I will list MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE • SALES • REPAIRS • MAINTENANCE FRED MARINE LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop Continued from previous page Continued from Since we’ve been here, Chris, Tony, Yvonne and I here, Chris, Tony, Yvonne Since we’ve been Above: Many architectural gems, such as the Palacio de Valle in Cienfuegos, are now restaurants Right: Arriving from the east, we originally intended to clear into Cuba at Santiago. We eventually were able to do so at Cienfuegos could leave with a firm conviction that socialism is good — or bad — for some countries. But we all found it difficult to come to any definite conclusions after our stay. Tony sees Cuba as a “grey” country, meaning that he tends to see other countries as black or white, e.g. “I really like that system” or “I hate this attitude”. But in Cuba we never felt that way: everything was just “fairly okay” or maybe “not quite so good”. So, to avoid any politics or propaganda, I would just say that under the circumstances, Cuba’s administration has done an amazing job for its people given that not only has the US continued a blockade during the past 40 years but also encouraged or insisted that other nations do not assist Cuba in any way. Very few countries the size of Cuba could survive without the assistance of foreign have spent many an evening talking about the social an evening talking about have spent many that we system in Cuba, maybe hoping and economic — AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 the Peso, knownastheCUC,andlocalpeso — from. Wonderful! he turnedroundandpeddledbacktowherecame final setoftrafficlightshesaidtogostraighton.Then mile. Wehadajobtokeepupsometimes.Across “Follow me!”andpedaledfranticallyformorethana happy toshowyoutheway.Oneguyonabicyclesaid, good map!Whenyougetlostthelocalpeoplearevery so agoodmapandnavigatorareimportant.Wehad very good.Signpostsarealittlebitlacking,however, an ID.ItnormallycostsoneCUC. man —atleastthat’swhathetoldus,butdidhave Most parkingareasseemtoemployanofficial sights, stopandparkwithoutanyhootersblowing. even inHavanawecouldcruisearoundandlookatthe all thatwasneeded. era. OurEuropeandrivinglicencesandpassportswere tioning. Thepricewasall-inclusive:insurance,etcet- about US$50perdayforasmallcarwithaircondi- some cash. and it’snotexpensive,butwedidseemtogetridof not thecurrencytotakeCuba.Cubaisn’tcheap changing BritishpoundsorEuros,soUSdollarsare changing USdollarstoCUCsandtenpercentfor In banksorhotelsyouwillbededucted20percentfor long way—thereare24nationalpesostooneCUC. too much,maybejust20CUCsatfirst,astheygoa local pesosinabankcalled visitors willneedtousetheCUCs.Youcanchange sional icecreamandstreetfood.Otherthanthat, ing fruitandveginthemarkets,maybeocca- The twoformsofcurrencyinCubaaretheConvertible Currency Our cruisingguidestoldusthathorse-drawncarts, Public Transport You driveontherightandroadsaregenerally Driving inCubaisadream.Thereverylittletraffic; We hiredacarforcoupleofweeks;thecostwas Driving Continued frompreviouspage moneda nacional . Thelocalpesoyouneedforbuy- cadeca . Don’tchange expensive. Wefoundtheopposite. locally, theair-conditionedtaxicabsbeingmost rickshaws, lorriesandtaxicabswerethewaytotravel In Cienfuegos,forexample,ahorseandcartshould Below: ChrisandTonyoutsideourcasaparticular and wefoundprivatehousesthebestplacestoeat Left: Cubansarenowallowedtooffermealsforsale, We stayedin the priceperroomnightismoreorless150CUCs. wheels andnosprings! do yourshortsinthebackofawagonwithwooden as thehorsecart.However,funwearsabitthin it wasthebetterbuy,thoughmaybenotsomuchfun journey. So,forlocalpeopleitisexpensivebutus Nevertheless thisisfarmorethanthelocalrate. tiation youcangetitdowntooneCUCforfourpeople. ask atouristforoneCUCperperson.Withsomenego- be onelocalpesoperpersonintotown,buttheywould —Continuedonnextpage you can’tfindone,justasksomeone. printed on.Therearemanyinthemajortownsbutif outside withwhatlookslikeablueinvertedanchor owned orrentedandhaveawhiteplaqueonthewall These government-approvedhousesareprivately You canofcoursestayovernightinahotel,where Places toStayandEat A regularcar-typetaxiwastwoCUCsforthesame casas particulares (privatehouses). AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 Above: Today’s public transportation the yacht club in Cienfuegos Below: And a remnant of the capitalist past, Club Náutico,

(a private restau- casas particulares paladar with two rooms to let must pay pay with two rooms to let must We are on-line: www.caribbeancompass.com Continued from previous page Continued from Next month: Touring the Cuban countryside, Havana, All these places seem to employ a great number of Museums and the Like All the major towns have wonderful buildings such Communications, Internet and WiFi Mobile phones work in most built-up areas without Because, I suppose, of Cuba’s struggling economy, struggling economy, Because, I suppose, of Cuba’s The owners of the houses in most circumstances will the houses in most circumstances The owners of These houses, some quite large, usually have one or some quite large, usually These houses, Trinidad and Cienfuegos. people. The Museum of the Revolution in Havana, a people. The Museum of the Revolution in Havana, a huge building, has one person sitting on a chair in each room doing nothing apart from watching the visitors. The beautiful white marble staircase needed cleaning, it was just grubby, but nobody did it. This was typical in all these places, whether theatre or museum. The automobile museum was a typical albeit small example, which to me highlights the way things are here. Maybe that’s the mentality within a communist regime. This small museum in the center of old Havana had at least four people working inside. One was selling postcards, one was taking the entry money, (one CUC each person and two if you wish to use your camera), and one or two were sitting around making sure no visitors used their cameras without paying. The dozen or so historic vehicles on display were covered in dust, rust was beginning to form, tyres were allowed to go flat. A lovely exhibit of auto history, but nobody thinks to clean the cars. I know the work- ers get paid peanuts, so I suppose there is no enthusiasm to do any more than the basic, but (unlike the well-cared-for cars on the street) the vehicles here will soon be not worth looking at. as museums, theatres and palaces that are generally as museums, theatres and palaces that are generally open to the public for a CUC or two per person. Some of the former parliament buildings now house museums and some “palaces” have been converted to restaurants. They are fantastic buildings, the architec- ture amazing, although some need TLC or a complete restoration job. a problem. We have a “Gymsim” worldwide card, a problem. We have a “Gymsim” worldwide card, which enabled us to make very cheap international calls from Cuba. Check out Gymsim on the net. Internet cafés are very few and far between, and they are expensive — six CUCs per hour, far more than many local people can afford. WiFi doesn’t really exist and broadband doesn’t appear to exist either: even the internet cafés we used had dial-up connections. private enterprise is now allowed in certain occupa- private enterprise is now Once registered, the tions. It’s not all profit though. casas particulares tax to the government, 5,000 CUCs per year in or not. With little or no whether they let their rooms difficult for them to adver- access to the internet it’s so, renting rooms does tise to foreign visitors. Even as long as the tourists contribute well to their living, keep coming. rant). These, too, are private houses offering meals for rant). These, too, are private We found the private parties of up to about 12 people. to be the best places houses and private restaurants meal including salad, and to eat. A lobster or chicken cost about eight to ten sometimes soup and dessert, but the quality of the food CUCs. Drinks were extra, expensive restaurants was better than any of the more we tried. provide lunch or evening meals, too. If not they will provide lunch or evening a surely know where there is include a breakfast that would otherwise cost three or that would otherwise include a breakfast person. four CUCs per two rooms available, most with en-suite bathrooms. most with en-suite two rooms available, 25 CUCs per are priced between 20 and These rooms a lounge or We usually had either room per night. to use the otherwise we were welcome balcony to use; as the owners. Some same lounge — AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Guatemala by“chickenbus”. Bar): theriverisagreatplacetoleaveboatandventureintogreater little somethingforeveryone. its mandatorystopattheconvenientlylocatedIndianco-opmidway.Theriverhasa connections toeverywhere.Thewater-taxiridebetweenthetwoisa“mustdo”with taurants andvendors.Livingstonisthelarger;Riotownprimarilyabusstopwith six milesup,providetouristsandcruiserswiththeusualassortmentofbars,res- some inseclusion.ThetownsofLivingston,atthemouthriver,andRioDulce, with generosityandenthusiasm. games andsewingbees.Thereturneesyear-rounderswelcomenewcomers difficulty keepingupwiththevarietyofradionets,potluckdinners,volleyball hotels, it’sahavenformarinatypes.Eventhemostdrivenmulti-taskerswillhave hole ANDit’sinGuatemala. the truthisreturntrafficover50percent. You mightthinktheseasonedhardcorewouldcheckthisboxoffandmoveon.But the EasternCaribbeantoweedoutfaintofheartandcruiserswithaschedule. son. I’mheretotellyouthatifhaven’t,should.It’sfarenoughawayfrom — ariverallthewayoveronleftsideofCaribbeanSeaforhurricanesea- probably wonderedwhysomanypeoplegooutoftheirwaytogettheRioDulce inGuatemala theRhumbLine A LittleOff I personallyliketheRioDulceforadifferentreason(withallduerespecttoBounos Some marinasarebig,somesmall.specializeinrepairs,parties, With overtenmarinas,fivehaul-outsandasmatteringofresortslittle The bigdealisthattheRioDulceadouble-header.Itreallygoodhurricane You’ve heardaboutit.thoughtYoumayhaveread DESTINATIONS ancient MayancityofTikal boat wassecured,wesetofftoexploresitessuchasthe The RioDulceisareallygoodhurricanehole.Onceour by ChuckCherry —Continued onnextpage AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

HART & STONE Grenada Why do so many cruisers go out of their way to get to the Rio Dulce, Why do so many cruisers go out of their way to get to all the way over on the left side of the Caribbean Sea? Here you can see the lava flowing almost under your feet as you inch along. WhereHere you can see the lava flowing almost under your feet pair of tennis shoes, but You get home a little after midnight, tired and short one your return trip. As you sail away from the Rio Dulce, you’ll be planning At the top there is a butte or ledge where you are about 200 yards from the fiery, you are about 200 yards is a butte or ledge where At the top there razor-sharp cross the wickedly uneven, the young and foolish and Or you can join your shoes don’t melt, they get cut up by the sharp lava. Intense heat replaces the chillyour shoes don’t melt, they get cut up by the sharp lava. making it almost impossibleof the climb. The last 20 yards are loose, charred gravel, there are always four or fiveto keep your balance as you approach the flames. But climb to be photographed by ablithe spirits (or blithering idiots) who make that final little too much fun for me.girlfriend who halted a more respectful 20 feet back. A your dock to have kissed a happy in the knowledge that you are the only one on volcano flow. ture. Bandits, once a danger, are no longer much of a problem. once a danger, are no longer ture. Bandits, remain here and mature and prudent to lava. It is considered glowing and flowing take photos. if you make it hoping as you go that over to the actual flow itself, dried lava bed a sudden course your leg there won’t be and shredding or breaking without slipping tourists who lose that gamble. year there are a couple of change. Every Collapse: How in Antigua for a PM Jared Diamond’s book about the rise and fall of Continued from previous page Continued from The climb is about medium difficulty, generally following a trail sometimes a pas- The climb is about medium difficulty, generally following It’s a night thing. For about US$25 you catch the bus at 6:00 It’s a night thing. For about US$25 you catch the bus Last but far from least, get up close and personal with a volcano: Pacaya to be Last but far from least, get up close and personal with Go spelunking. Guatemala sits on top of three different tectonic plates — hence the Go spelunking. Guatemala sits on top of three different Go to Tikal, the largest of the ancient ruined cities of the Mayan civilization. You Go to Tikal, the largest of the ancient ruined cities of Go to Lake Atitlan. Try to make arrangements to spend the rest of your life there. arrangements to spend the rest of your life there. Go to Lake Atitlan. Try to make Enjoy the festivals, bistros and cobblestone streets, horses, coffee farms, hiking and cobblestone streets, horses, coffee farms, hiking Enjoy the festivals, bistros Brush up on your religion by visiting some of the restored and unrestored church- Brush up on your religion by There are over 60 Spanish-language schools featuring immersion classes in the schools featuring immersion classes in the There are over 60 Spanish-language The first is almost always the city of Antigua. The former capital of Guatemala is the city of Antigua. The former capital of Guatemala The first is almost always The really big adventure here for Monica and me was climbing the active volcano for Monica and me was climbing the active volcano The really big adventure here The lack of government and infrastructure has created a vacuum for volunteers. has created a vacuum and infrastructure The lack of government Despite being one of the poorest countries in the world, and certainly the least devel- in the world, and certainly one of the poorest countries Despite being two-hour ride to the bottom of the mountain. Fortified with a jacket, water and very two-hour ride to the bottom of the mountain. Fortified and 24 others in your group. good shoes, you begin the hour-long climb with a guide For about 20 dollars more, you can rent a horse. exact. Where else in the world can you walk right up and jump into a volcano? No exact. Where else in the world can you walk right up walls, no ropes, no rules. nearly 40 volcanoes, frequent earthquakes and copious quantities of caves. Read up nearly 40 volcanoes, frequent earthquakes and copious types of caves. Take a on where to go spelunking as there are several different chicken bus and a flashlight. certain civilizations. Tikal was the Paris of the ancient Mayan world, and when you certain civilizations. Tikal was the Paris of the ancient see it you will know why. Societies Choose To Fail Or Succeed, can do it in a two-day excursion from Antigua. On the way, read can do it in a two-day excursion from Antigua. On This is the most beautiful lake in the world, marred only by the multitude of street This is the most beautiful lake in the world, marred only town and catching a sunset. vendors. Get off the beaten path by hiking to the next and street food. See at least some of the museums and spend a day with a volunteer some of the museums and spend a day with a volunteer and street food. See at least plan your excursions from here. to see what that’s about. Then es dating back to the 16th century. If you’re not feeling well, get in line at St. century. If you’re not feeling well, get in line at es dating back to the 16th casket and throw away those pills. He is the only saint Anthony’s, rub old St. Pedro’s exhibit) in the western hemisphere. interred (or I should say on morning, field trips in the afternoon, and rooming in private homes (meals included) and rooming in private homes (meals included) morning, field trips in the afternoon, It’s a great way to brush up on those useful phrases, all for about US$75 per week. the locals all at the same time for a week or three. see the sights and mix with still the quintessential colonial mountain town. Perched among three volcanoes it is mountain town. Perched among three volcanoes still the quintessential colonial Bring a jacket and get started here. cool, charming and charismatic. without getting toasted. But along the way there were several significant stops. without getting toasted. But There are so many NGOs (non-governmental organizations) that the whole place organizations) that many NGOs (non-governmental There are so hurricane sea- Quite a few cruisers find the Corps training camp. looks like a Peace So if you find of cruising the darkness. time to light one candle instead son is a good just ask one of the gringos without a camera where yourself in that do-gooder mood and they can tell you where to get off the chicken to sign up. They are everywhere bus and get involved. oped in Central America, the people in this variety adventure-land are always smiling variety adventure-land are America, the people in this oped in Central apparently fizzled want. The political strife help travelers get what they and willing to classes and reli- and the different races, of the new millennium out at the beginning casual existence with low expectations. have settled into a kind of gious seem to — AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 the sunwentdownwewereleftintotaldarkness,as We arrivedinPuertoSantosat3:45 2007, motorsailingagainstwind,wavesandcurrent. quite easilyberunoverbyabus. over theworldandifyou’realandlubberyoucould go aheadandtaketheadventureasthingshappenall that hadhappenedinthepreviousyear.Wedecidedto robbed andseverelybeatenatPuertoSantos—but ing thestoryoftwoFrenchmenwhohadbeenattacked, stories aboutthisparticularpartofVenezuela,includ- Raven Eye Kankuntu, aboardthe41-footBritishsailingyacht ents, PeterandBetty,theirGambianridgeback, Isla MargaritatoTrinidad.Iwassailingwithmypar- along Venezuela’sPeninsuladePariaonthewayfrom by Katie Lee leg toTrinidad. and itleftmefeelingmoresecureabouttheonward this wasaverynicethingfortheCoastguardtodo them straightawayandtheywouldbewithus.Wefelt incidents whenweleftPuertoSantosharbour,tocall asking ourintentions.Theysaidthatiftherewereany stuck inmyhead. shoulder everyfiveminutesasthescarestorieswere rest. Iwasextremelygladnottohavelookovermy We leftPorlamarat7:00 Before leavingMargaritawehadheardmanyscare In JuneoflastyearIhadthepleasuresailing We lefttheharbourat5:00 We wereawakenedat8:45 Off PuertoSantos,Venezuela Yacht at Rest

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Marmaris CHRIS DOYLE PUBLISHING (2) PUBLISHING DOYLE CHRIS AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 The only additional bit of advice that came to The only additional bit of advice that came to Once the scum had gone my parents had the choice had gone my parents had Once the scum still in shock and traumatized, Once in Trinidad, were being watched It seems to me that my parents It is now the 10th of July, so these events and feel- understatement. So to all of you who read this piece, understatement. So to all of you who read this piece, please take note of any legitimate reports of attacks on yachts and avoid those specific locations. We thought it would never happen to us but, like being hit by a bus, it can happen to anyone. Be aware. mind after speaking with my parents is to carry an extra mobile phone or handheld VHF and hide it in a safe place. avail (my father and I fitted that last year pretty damn and I fitted that last year avail (my father the proceeded to try and disconnect well!). Then they to take that (my father tried radar, also unsuccessfully a wrench but got nowhere). off last year with no communi- or carrying on. They had of turning back to carry on to father took the decision cation at all. My get out of Venezuelan waters. Trinidad and The Customs of what had happened. they informed nothing but console them. Customs officers could do them the British High A good friend in Trinidad gave they informed my father he Commission’s number, but Trinidad, then the police had to file a police report in Commission, then the would contact the British High would contact the British British High Commission so on. It seems this will be Embassy in Venezuela, and but if these people are a long process for my parents others it will be worth the caught so they cannot harm strain and effort. party was going on and the in Puerto Santos while the to go offshore so they perpetrators waited for them unseen. I’ve been told that could do their dirty work of years ago that were there were two families a couple the location where my running a piracy group around they got caught, so this is parents were attacked and the British and Venezuelan keeping us optimistic that if in this case then hopefully authorities do their utmost too. these pirates will be caught, ings are still very fresh to my parents and my mother is in total shock still. To say I am angry is a huge so my dad so my dad , getting my father and Raven Eye, around and slammed the slammed the around and Raven Eye My mother, Betty, did too! Raven Eye The brave Kankuntu, who survived his wounds The only money my parents had on board was They continued their pillage while holding guns on He turned Five men boarded Photos, left to right: I enjoyed the same passage in 2007 tying him up on deck with a gun pointed at his back. tying him up on deck with a gun pointed at his back. Three of the men went down below where my mother was, two of them pointing guns at her head. My brave dog Kankuntu was shot in the leg but this did not stop him from launching himself at the men. One was too fast for Kankuntu and stabbed him in the back. Fortunately, he survived his wounds. US$200 and about a hundred dollars worth of Bolivars, all of which was in my father’s shorts. My mother pointed to the shorts and got a reaction of “This is not enough”. They tried to take off my mother’s wedding ring and in the process injured her hand very badly. (I can tell you that ring would have to be cut off her finger, it’s on so tight.) She cannot remember how it happened as she went into shock mode. my parents. They took a mobile phone, laptop com- puter, SSB radio, eight-horsepower Mercury outboard and toolboxes. They ripped the microphones off the VHF radios, ripped the compass out, ripped cables elsewhere and left the boat in total disarray. They even tried to rip out the forward-looking sonar, but to no a military uniform. My father’s first thoughts were, My father’s first thoughts a military uniform. to try and — these guys are going “I’m not stupid he saw the guns. board us.” Then angry. There was no way of out-running them, and if he shot, when eventually they did board they would be in more of a fighting spirit. pirogue, then there was a shot fired. He ducked down ducked down there was a shot fired. He pirogue, then he nor the and was amazed that neither in the cockpit another ram- hit. Again he went for boat had been fired. The but more shots were ming manoeuvre faster than pirogue was to shoot getting the flare gun ready thought about four guns on him and he back. But then there were not to get the attackers decided it would be better F D P G A P

T N E M Last year there were no pirogues, E

] E it looked like a million fairy wings R Editor’s note: July 5th is Venezuela’s ' E B I A R A # Raven Eye Continued from previous page Continued from My parents checked out of Porlamar, Margarita, on My parents left the harbour just before the sun went But this year, if I had done the same trip with my We reached Trinidad at 10 o'clock the following As the stars came out near midnight I had never came out near midnight As the stars As the hours passed I saw a few individual lights passed I saw a few individual As the hours the 4th of July 2008, again heading for Puerto Santos. the 4th of July 2008, again heading for Puerto Santos. They had a good trip, making it in nine hours against the current. They told me they thought there was some kind of party going on there the next day, as the harbour was filled with pirogues and there were lots of people on shore. [ Independence Day. down. They were in good spirits, looking forward to getting to Trinidad and getting their generator’s char- ger fixed. About 40 minutes past sunset they were roughly ten miles out when my father saw a pirogue approaching with six men on board; one was wearing parents they would not have been silly thoughts but a nightmarish reality. just a few Venezuelan fishing boats. There was no Coastguard to greet them this time. morning feeling very tired and drained. After such a morning feeling very tired and drained. After such a wonderful passage I felt a little silly for letting my thoughts run away on negative things. flying. Beautiful. seen such phosphorescence on a passage: the water seen such phosphorescence on a passage: the water was aglow with every moving wave and around the hull of near the coastline and my eyes never moved from and my eyes never near the coastline were head- determine which way they them, trying to mode, just light I saw I got into defence ed. With every one of those scary stories. in case we became — AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! ARE MOREECONOMICAL! experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com All areavailableviaArmchairSailorandBluewaterBooks. BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico at bookshops and chandleries, or from at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. NEW! Street’s Guides are available Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. DON’T Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof ashore. Allthebestwishestoworkingand recreationalsailorsalike,andbecarefulwithhurricaneseason! tains sailingonaregularroutineinCaribbeanwaters,andtheirhardworkingagents whoprovidesupportsystems you asmyTallyClerkonSaturdays.AndIhavetwootheremployees.Allinall,it’s goodexposureasawoman. created moreemployment—youareone,becauseCustomswantedaproperaccount ofgoods,soIdecidedtohave happy, andsoarethecaptain,workerscustomers.IntermsofincomeIbenefit, duetomorevessels.AndI’ve night tomakesurethingsareinthesystem. seasons itcanbefrustrating,andtheythemselvesaredifficultattimes.Andsometimes wedon’tcloseuntilmid- along withCustomsprocedurescanbeahassleattimes.Whendealingcustomers withinholidaysandpeak deals withmakingsuretherightgoodsareaboardship.Thiscanbeverychallenging attimes.Alsoworking more fortheadvanced21stcentury. different shipsandvesselswhohaveapproachedmetobetheiragent.Andithas alsogivenmethegeartoprepare a man’sjobwithpassion.Let’smeether. packed properlyforsafety. to beonthealertforanycallcheckoutcourseorproblems.I’vegotalwaysmakesuremycargois doned shipsatnights.SometimesIcomeacrossbadweatherandevenifamnotonwatch,mymindalwayshas ships aremymainchallengesatnights.Alsoyou’vegottobealwayslookingoutforlate-nightbadguysandaban- storms, in2002and2003.AllthesethingsmademehappythatIreallycanhandlethesea. Barbados andbacktoSt.Vincent.ThesecondvoyagealsoincludedLucia.AlsoIprovedmyselfafterbattlingtwo occasions formeandmyfather.Whenhegavetheboattome,IsailedroutefromSt.VincentDominica, him Icanhandletheship.Andanyelectricalproblem,alwayssolvedit.That,willsay,mademosthappy ity isverywarm,andI’vetheprivilegetobefriendswithhimthroughmyworkaroundvessels. latest navigationsystemsandCaptainNicholasensureshisareuptothemark.Nick’spersonal- Susan crewmembers whoworkveryhardtomaintainandsecurethecargoproperly. the dock—youalwaysknowwhen cargo ondeckandalsothroughahatchintothehold.HerenginesareGMsthatwhistleasshemaneuvers passport.) Thatwillbeaveryexcitingadventuretoexperience. captain aboardorphoneHarry’sShippingAgencyinKingstownat(784)457-1373.(Makesuretohaveavalid foodstuffs, vehiclesandmail.Shecanalsotakepassengers.Ifyouwanttoatrip,it’sbestcheckwiththe to offload. and makesportcallsatSt.Kitts,Anguilla,TortolaMaarten.ShereturnstwiceamonthonWednesdays St. VincentandTortola M/V LadySusan M/V LadySusan St. Vincent,Saturdays,11:30 DEPARTURES M/V LadySusan’s ARRIVALS Not manycancruiseforpleasure.Butwehaveseamenwhostillplythecargotrade asaliving,sailorsandcap- Miss Harry:Thanksagainandanytime,feelfree. Amal: That’sreallynice;Iappreciatedyourtime. Miss Harry:Imustsaythatasawoman,it’snoteasy.Butattheendofdaywhen thingsgoasplanned,Iam Amal: Whatbenefitsdoyouachieve? Miss Harry:Well,letmesaythatwhenitcomestoCustoms,I’vegotensure you havedocumentationwhich Amal: Whatarethechallengesyouexperienceinclearingshipandoutof port? Miss Harry:No!Thecaptainisaveryunderstandingpersontogetalongwith.I’ve gotmoreexposureinhandling Amal: Doyouhaveanyregretsaboutbeingtheagentandifso,why? Miss Harry:Ithasbeensevenyearsnow. Amal: Howlonghaveyoubeentheagentfor Miss Harry:Sure!That’snoproblem,mydear. Amal: Wouldyouspareyourtimetogivemealittleinsightintobusiness? Miss Harry:Hey,Amal.Iamfine! Amal: Goodday,MissHarry,andhowareyou? Miss AdinaHarryofHarry’sShippingAgencyisaveryniceladyandseriouswithherwork—shetakeson Meet MissAdinaHarry Capt. Nick:Yeahman,thanksalot.Andrespecttoyou. Amal: Well,that’sagreatnutshellofstuffandIwishyouthebestforupcomingseason,Captain. Capt. Nick:Well,it’snoteasyoutthereattimes.Iwillsaythatnavigationproblemsposedbyotherboatsand Amal: Challengesarealwaysapartoflife:whatyourexperienceslikeaboard Capt. Nick:Letmesay,Ineversawmyselfbecomingacaptain.Thisiswhatreallychangedme.Onedaymy Amal: Whatinspiredyoutobeaseaman? Capt. Nick:I’vebeenacaptainforeightyearsnow. Amal: Howlonghaveyoubeenacaptain? Capt. Nick:Noproblem!Yousafeanytime. Amal: Well,Ijustdecidedtobringyouaboardmystory. Capt. Nick:Hey,man,what’sup? Amal: Goodday,Captain! Meet CaptainNicholas * DepartstwiceamonthfromSt.Vincent. t are Mno us :0M St.Vincent(WedorThurs) 8:00 St. Maarten(MonorTues)8:00PM Tortola, Sundays,8:00 Anguilla, Tuesdays,10:00 St. Kitts,Mondays,8:00 Formerly ownedbythelateMauriceJones,sheisnowcaptainedhisson,NicholasJones.Theshiphasfive M/V LadySusan The Based inSt.Vincent&theGrenadines, Regional seaserviceisaveryimportanttradewithintheCaribbean.I’dliketotellyouabout M/V LadySusan , thecaptainwhorunsher,andshippingagentkeepshercargoserviceonasteadycourse. plies theCaribbeanSeabetween isawhiteandblacksteel-hulledshipwithanopenaftdeck.Ithascranethatusedtostow Schedule carries generalcargo,traffickers’producesuchasgroundprovisionsandbananas,drinks, PM PM

St. Maarten, Mondays, 8:00 PM Anguilla, Tuesdays, 8:30 Tortola, Wednesdays, 9:00 PM St.Kitts,Mondays, 8:00 * M/V LadySusan M/V LadySusan M/V LadySusan by AmalThomas

isinport. MELCHION QUAMMIE MELCHION Lady Susan happiest occasionsyouexperiencedaboard father died,Iwasalwayshiselectrician. prove myself,andstepuptothehelm.Andbeforemy lot ofelectronicdevices.SoIknewitwastimeto from schoolasanelectricianand the same?Itjustmotivatedme.AndIalsograduated businesses, whycannotayoungblackboylikemedo Indians andSyrianscanbeapartoftheirfathers’ changed mythinking.Isaidtomyself,ifwhites, traveled togethertoAmerica.Trustme,partner,it His previousvesselwas which isnowthe father toldmehewasgoingtobuyanewvessel, Capt. Nick: Man, it was not easy at the start, Capt. Nick:Man,itwasnoteasyatthestart, Amal: Okay,prettyimpressive!Whatarethe when he finally accepted me was when I proved to when hefinallyacceptedmewasIprovedto father andson;itwasmorecaptaincrew.But father, andtwo—histeachingwashard.Itnot because, one—itwashardtobeacceptedbymy ? departsKingstowntwiceamonthonSaturdays ? AM Lady Susan M/V LadySusan AM AM AM Lady Susan M/V SeaCyprus AM

, sincebackin1991. Lady Susan ? has someofthe . Anyway,we M/V Lady hada AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

CHRIS DOYLE

Cruise for the for the Cruise

Grassroots Research Research Grassroots Grenadines this Month Grenadines The crew is inviting interested community members to come aboard the Moorings A variety of donors have helped fund this unique research, namely: The Moorings Emphasis will also be given to explore and map the little-known deeper areas (40 As a part of this research, an intensive “ground-truthing” or validation cruise will be A collaborative spatial approach derived from the The vital importance of marine resources to the people of the Grenadines is well resources to the people of the Grenadines is well The vital importance of marine As many of you may know, the Grenadines are recognized for their beautiful natu- As many of you may know, Be on the lookout this month in the Grenadine Islands for a community-based in the Grenadine Islands for a community-based Be on the lookout this month The MarSIS research yacht will be investigating the Grenadines The MarSIS research yacht will be investigating the Grenadines from August 4th through 31st MarSIS catamaran for a day as they travel through the Grenadines and explore the marine habitats of the Grenadines with them. For more information on how you can get involved or to plan a day-trip please contact the Sustainable Grenadines Project in Union Island at (784) 485-8779 or contact Kim Baldwin at [email protected]. yacht charter company, the Mustique Company shareholders, a number of private donors, The Sustainable Grenadines Project, CERMES of the University of the West Indies, ESRI, the Nature Conservancy and the Governments of St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Grenada. The project coordinators also thank all of the local marine resource users from every Grenadine Island — without their continual help throughout this three-year process, none of it would have been possible. to 100 metres) of the Grenada Bank by either SCUBA diving or using a drop-camera to collect data. A secondary, yet equally important objective of this grassroots research cruise will be to conduct an initial or baseline assessment of the abundance and distribution of the key fisheries of lobster and conch in the Grenadines. conducted during the month of August to assess the accuracy of this collaboratively built marine habitat and space-use map. The crew will consist of a diverse team of six divers, including two Grenadines fishers, a local captain, two fisheries biologists (one from the St. Vincent & the Grenadines Fisheries Division and one from the Caribbean Regional Fisheries Mechanism) and a CERMES MSc student. They will live and work together to achieve a better understanding of the differences between scientific and local knowledge of the various marine habitats and areas of importance for each. been working with these groups to capture their local knowledge not only of the loca- been working with these groups to capture their local tion but also of the importance of the various marine habitats for each Grenadine community. She has taken this information and combined it with a Geographical Information System (GIS) to integrate the range of social, economic, cultural and conventional biophysical information available into a single framework. This on-going research will result in the development of a “public-access multi-knowledge transboundary marine space-use information system”. This information can be used as a planning tool that will provide a more holistic understanding of the value of coastal and marine resources in regards to conservation, biodiversity and to the livelihoods of the Grenadine people thereby assisting more sustainable development. fullest possible information base was identified by the fullest possible information base was identified by the Sustainable Grenadines Project to effectively understand, plan and manage the transboundary and multi- faceted nature of the marine resources and their asso- ciated users. In 2005, Kim Baldwin began work to quantify the number of people within each community whose livelihood depends on the sea. She has then known, yet planning and management of the use of marine resources of the known, yet planning and management of the use are the marine resources Grenadines is becoming increasingly complex. Not only by two countries and distributed across the Grenada Bank but they are managed water-taxis, yachts, ferries, utilized by a variety of marine resource users (fishers, from the nine inhabited ships, day tour operators to name a few) emanating mainlands of Grenada and Grenadine Islands as well as from both of the respective nature of the Grenadines, St. Vincent. Due to this dispersed and transboundary marine management of marine management is extremely challenging. Furthermore, nations or between scientific the Grenadines has not been integrated among sectors, approach has not been and local knowledge systems. This segregated management effective thus far and has failed to prevent the environmental degradation of the Grenadines in recent years. ral scenery consisting of rolling hills, spectacular beaches, clear blue waters and hills, spectacular beaches, clear blue waters ral scenery consisting of rolling Grenadines are one of the few areas within the Lesser diverse marine habitats. The supporting the most extensive coral reefs and related Antilles with an extensive shelf of Caribbean, including seagrass and lagoon, areas habitats in the southeastern patch, fringing and bank barrier reefs. Marine-based mangrove, and a variety of of the economy of the area, in which artisanal fishing activities are the mainstay and reef fish), transport and a variety of tourism activi- (primarily for lobster, conch ties are major sources of employment. research yacht sponsored in part by The Moorings. The Grenadines “MarSIS” or in part by The Moorings. The Grenadines “MarSIS” research yacht sponsored Information System is an on-going research project Marine Resource and Space-use and student of the Centre for Resource Management led by Kim Baldwin, a PhD the of the University of West Indies together with Environmental Studies (CERMES) based in Union Island. Kim has been working with Sustainable Grenadines Project of the Grenadines to map the various marine resources local marine resource users importance for conservation as well as for the livelihoods as well as identify areas of of the Grenadine communities. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 the lastweek. also bethepromiseofromancesailingintoyourharborin may besurprisedatwhattheycomeupwith.Therewill Look toyourfemalefriendsforboatbusinesstips—you get outofitssailbagthismonth. it floatsawayaroundthe21st.Yoursenseofhumorwon’t Wring thelastdropoutofthatcreativeinspirationbefore the skieswillcleareventually. over everything,especiallyinthelastweek.Don’tfret— You mayfindhumoratlowebbandaratherblackcloud last week.Reefdownandeasethemain;you’llsailthrough. buddies andpossibleroughseaswithyourinamoratainthe This monthcouldbringsquallytimeswithcreworcruising through anyroughseas. the 23rd.Concentrateonyourcommunicativeskillstosail Use thecreativecurrentsyoufeeltobestadvantagebefore lasts —youcouldmakesomelong-lastingcontacts. until thesecondweek.Jumpaboardthisaspectwhileit Nautical businesswillbenefitfromyourclosefemalefriends day-to-day inanactivecruisinglife. boredom willmakeyouappreciatethestimulationof Things willbeboringlybalancedforthemonth.Perhaps why notjustdropyoursailsandenjoythecalm? ability toexpressyourselfasyourlovelifefollowssuit.So Your creativitymaybeinthedoldrumsalongwithyour to asecludedanchorage,perhaps. related businessmayprovefrustrating.Timeforasolosail the secondhalfofmonth.Detailsinanymarine- Crew orcruisingbuddiesmaybecomepickyandcriticalin is law”—talkeverythingthoughduringacalm. ship ontherocks.Thisisnotimefor“thecaptain’sword in argumentsanddistrustwhichcouldputyourrelation- your cruisingorboat-maintenanceplans,andmayendup Difficulties inyourlovelifecouldproveverydisruptiveto weeks. Focusonroutineboatchoresinstead. may causeyoufrustrationandstressinthefirsttwo Creative mattersandrelationshipswiththeoppositesex self throughnewexperiences. ness. Trytotakesometimeofftheboatandrefreshyour- You maymakesomenewsailingfriendsthroughbusi- www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: Our AdvertisersSupport Please SupportThem. AUGUST 2008 the SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) Compass… (22Jun-23Jul)

Marina Cay Toast parlumps marooned for RobbyRobinson HOTEL GUEST and tothePirateineachofus. Here’s toourdreams—here’sschemes (for that’sthe“real’treasure,Itrust); Here’s totherumandhavingfun and theblueCaribbeanskies. Here’s totheTradesandislandsmade that sailtheBVIs. Here’s togoodcaptainsandtheirfinecrews blows undying? and theboisterousTradeWind where I’maguest here, onBequia, I’m mostathome Is itanywonder with theboatandgo. time, then,wastoroll full andpulling; like asquaresail, or off,heldme Time, then,onwatch a foreignland. as weapproach the bellyingcanvas, against it,haulingin and mybellyhard the lureofyard down theslantingdecks, driven stinging the salttasteofspray of thewheel’sspokes, feel againthetug and tuggingathermooring; tautly rigged of rakishproportions, I seeaschooner Out throughgreenfronds, — JamesK.Richardson — RichardDey N to thelandofNod. Then it’soff out onthereef. sounds ofsurf bringing withit welcoming windows, through a draughtspillsin Sensuous cool, a hottinroof. loud upon downpour, sudden, soaking and thunderous, a mightycrash, Then vividflash, jalousied apertures. through open night-wind sighs Sweetly perfumed scented darkness. to sudden quickly fades tropic splendour Vivid sunset’s N

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AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 ' W1

Crossword Solution on page 37 _____: famous 1929 schooner Lion’s 'Nautical Alphabet: Alphabet: 'Nautical 1) Light hawser 2) A jigger plus a handy billy 3) Large sea mammal with tusks 4) _____ courses: limber holes 5) Under___: having forward motion 6) Provision boat from Maine 7) Blade of an oar 8) 9) Wax and ____ 12) Knots used on end of rigging lanyard where deadeyes are used 13) Disk-shaped plates used to spread loads of threaded fasteners 14) Crank or tottering, like a sprung spar 17) Exclamation of surprise 18) Is no more ACROSS 1) Alert 2) Come in first 3) _____ room: mess cabin 4) Old word for a ford sleep 5) Crew’s duty while others 7) Contract of marine insurance boat 10) Charge for using shore 11) ___ and wherefore 12) Timber spoiled by wetness water 13) Track of vessel through punishment 15) ____ the plank: pirate’s keep out spray 16) Boards on gunwales to goods 17) Storage place for bonded point from which 18) To ______: toward the the wind blows 19) Fighting vessel DOWN Word Search Puzzle solution on page 26 Caribbean Compass 2008

Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski

Part of the fun of cruising the Caribbean is searching for sea life. But you Part of the fun of cruising the Caribbean is searching Sit in the shade for a while can’t dive, snorkel or beach-comb all the time! kinds of Caribbean sea life with this word search puzzle and see how many you can find. Compass Cruising Crossword Cruising Compass AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © and shewaslayingherpurpleeggsinthenesthe could helpherself,Abudefhadloopedabouthisbride ing, looping,untilTheawashypnotizedandbeforeshe ever jumpedbeforeandthenheswaminloops,leap- vertical jumpsabovehisnest,higherthananyonehad wasn’t interestedinanyofthem.Abudefmadestrong frantic dashesabouttheirownnestsbutlovelyThea around hisnestsiteuntilthereshewas! ing. SoAbudefswamwithaproudswaggerupand his signaltoflirtatiousyounggirlsthathewascourt- blue, hiswarningtoothermalesnotinterfereand daily uniformforoneofanaggressivelybarredsteel they shonelikepuresilver,butnowhechangedthis brightest andhissilverbellyscaleswerepolisheduntil His alternatingyellowandblackstripeswerethe and themosthandsomeofalleligibleyoungmen. nary SergeantMajor;hewasthestrongest,biggest venture outtofindher.Abudefhimselfwasnoordi- would attractthemostsoughtafteryounglady,didhe ings ofhisfins.Onlywhenhewassurethatnest away thefinedustandrubbishwithvigoroussweep- rock withhisstrongjawsandsharpteethfanned plate. Hehadgnawedathardcoralbasesanduneven area oftherockfacemakingitassmoothadinner had workedveryhardtoclearabigthree-footdiameter and littlespongesthathadmadetheirhomethere.He of asmoothrock,nibblingawayallthealgae,moss sen anestsiteforhisbride-to-beontheverticalface decided togetmarriedandraiseafamily.Hehadcho- started torelaxasherememberedthedayhad possibly have. wife anySergeantMajor,indeedfishatall,could was andalwayshadbeenthemostloyalloving very unkindandnastyofhimtothinkthisTheawho chosen thewrongmateandhefrownedangrily.Itwas of thereef.Hisfirstthoughtwasthathemusthave answer butwentofftosulkunderaledgeontheedge audacity ofhissonthathedidn’tstaytowaitforan knew thathedidn’t.Abudefwassoputoutbythe wondered whyhedidn’twanttobeasoldier,just because hehadneverthoughtaboutitbutnow want tobe?”OfcourseSimcouldn’tanswerthis in reply,“ifyoudon’twanttobeasoldier,whatdo the youngtrainees.“But,but,but,”Abudefstammered tured: alltherestcouldhardlywaittojoinof only oneleftoutofthebroodhehadsorecentlynur- thought theworriedfather.AdmittedlySimwas genes —goodheavenswhatwaswrongwithSim?” are bornandbredtobesoldiers.“Itisinourvery strongest, aretheleadersofallDamselFishesand not onlythat,SergeantMajors,beingthebiggestand Cutie CoveonthenorthwardcoastofSt.Lucia.But he wasthecommanderofallfishforceslocatedin shocked tohearhisyoungsonsaythis,especiallyas Other bachelorswereafterheraswell,allmaking As Abudefsulked,thinkingnegativethoughts,he “But Idon’twanttobeasoldier!”Abudefwas things: nist, CarlLinnaeus,publishedthefirst attemptatclassificationofallliving exactly whattheyaretalkingabout! So ifeveryplantoranimalhasonespecific scientificname,everyonewillknow things inotherlanguages,say,French or Spanish.Thiscanbeveryconfusing. a tree,forexample.And,ofcourse,there arethenamesofthosesameliving each islandoftheCaribbeanmayhaveits ownlocalnameforafishorbird several namesdependingonwhofirstfound itorwherewasfound.Eventoday, no organizedsystemfornamingplantsandanimals.Oneorganismmighthave name, what itwascalled? Pacific OceanduringsurveysoftheCensusMarineLife. DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Who firstthoughtofscientificnames? Why arescientificnamesimportant? A peculiarwhite,blind,lobster-likecreaturewasfoundatthebottomof Kiwa hirsuta. Systema Naturae He llo ! M y n Scientists namedittheYetiCrabbutgavescientific a

m PROUDLY SPONSOREDBYPETITST.VINCENTRESORT . Hemetorcorrespondedwitheminentscientists around by ElaineOllivierre e

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In1735,aSwedishdoctorandbota-

e in thebay. commanding hisforcesthatprotectedallthefishliving for awhileandinthemeantimehewouldgetonwith possible mates.HewouldletSimthinkabouthisfate smiled andknewhehadindeedchosenthebestofall brood fromallharm.Withthesememories,Abudef form, fanned,nuzzled,cleanedandprotectedthe work. Abudef,stillinhisimpeccablesteelblueuni- to carefortheeggs;no,thatisDamselFishfathers’ was theproudfather-in-waiting.Theawasn’tallowed to holdtheenemyadvance.Thiswasasuicidal attacking theenemy.Oneforce,ledbyhimwouldtry into tightgroupsthatwoulddefendeachotherwhile could commandsoheagreed.Heorganizedhisforces fight. Abudefknewthatheneededeverysoldier colours blanched,butstilltheybeggedtobeallowed youngsters hadneverseenarealbattleandnowtheir directions, bringingwiththemthetrainees.These ments astheSergeantMajorsoldiersarrivedfromall and awholegenerationofyoungfishwouldbelost. counter-attack quickly,therewouldbenobroodleft wounded onthesand.UnlessAbudefcouldorganizea and whilemanywereslaughtered,othersshivered, guards ondutyhadnotgivenupwithoutastruggle swarming everywhere,pickinguptheleftovers.The there wereotherstooandcrabsseaurchins Lipped BlenniesandthepinkeyedSlipperyDicks,but Headed Wrasses,theBlueStripedGrunts,Red that theworstofmarauderswereviciousBlue indeed forhehadneverseensuchcarnage.Hesaw swam offtoreconnoiter.Whathesawwashorrible squadrons andplatoonsthathecouldmuster solitary guardsarebeingovercome.” attacking thebroodingnestsonourreefsand gave hisreport. tion. Abudefwavedhisrightfinandthemessenger ger swambrisklytoAbudef’ssideandfinnedatten-

i Abudef didn’thavetowaitverylongforreinforce- Abudef immediatelysentforalltheregiments, “Commandersir,astrongforceofenemyfishare The verynextdaywhileonpatrol,anarmymessen-

THE FISHARMY

Do youremember i

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e a . by LeeKessell GOES complicated. Let’slookattwoexamplesfromthemarineenvironment. The namesineachlevelarebasedonLatinorGreekwordssotheylookvery the chain.Therearealsosomesubdivisionsbutwe’lllookatthoseanothertime. genuses (orgenera)makea they are have certaincharacteristicsincommonandcaninterbreed.Inmodernterms, although theyareslightlydifferentfromtheoriginalset.Theseare: of sevendifferentlevelsor names Linnaeusgavetothespeciesinhislistsbecametheirscientificnames. to updatethe around theworld.Asnumberofknownorganismsincreased,Linnaeushad Europe andsentstudentsoutonexpeditionstocollectplantspecimensfrom (scientific name) Next month,we’lltakeacloserlookatwhat thesenamesmean. The lowestlevelisthemostspecific.A Phylum(orDivision) Species Genus Family Order Class Kingdom How didLinnaeus’classificationwork? Species Genus Family Order Class Phylum Kingdom genetically distinct Systema Naturae Crhro acaisKiwahirsuta Carchardoncarcharias Yeticrab Greatwhiteshark family andeKiwaidae Kiwa Arthropoda Decapoda Animalia Malacostraca Carchardon Lamnidae Lamniformes Chondrichthyes Chordata Animalia taxa their bodiesfarouttoseabeeatenbythesharks. dead, thenighttideswirledaroundthemandcarried he wasaveryhappySergeantMajor.Asfortheenemy looked proudlytowardshisfatherandAbudefsmiled, and withthateveryvoicewasraisedinpraise.Sim many atoastwasraisedtothefallenheroes. the fishinbayrejoicedvictorythatnightand guards whohaddefendedthebroodssovaliantly.All miracle notonesoldierwaskilledafterthosesolitary patients. Thereweremanyofthewoundedbutbya uniforms withwhitefinedgingstookchargeoftheir robes andtheDoctorFishintheirsmartblackmedical where theSurgeonFishintheirpowderbluesurgical and carriedthemtothehospitalunderreefledge had consumedthem,buttheycollectedtheirwounded dead comradesamilitaryburialasthefrenziedenemy was quiet.TheSergeantMajorscouldnotgivetheir their lives,nevertoreturn,therestperished.Atlastall home groundandknewthereefsblindfold. fish wereblindedbyitbuttheSergeantMajorson upon eachother.Blooddarkenedthewateruntilall frenzy andconfusion.TheWrassesBlenniesturned lost theirclawstofriendandenemyalikeforallwas the battlefromallsides.Thecrabsandhermit panic, buttherewasnoescapeasthetroopsblazedinto ing downupontheenemy,causingkillerstoturnin backs andfins.Thetroopsintherearjoinedin,swoop- them asideandbitingdownwiththeirsharpteethon battle. Theyheadbuttedtheadvancingkillers,knocking his leftside. his owndearsonhelethimstay,keepingsafeon filled withprideandalthoughhefearedforthelifeof attention besidehisfather. quickly totheveryfrontofattackers,finning mother away.“I’mjoiningDad!”hecriedandswam Sergeant Major,abornsoldier.Simshruggedhis tion, Simatlastknewhisfate;hewasindeeda Sim wokeasiffromalongdream.Withoutanyques- his mother’slovethatjoltedthroughheart,but head andgavehimahug.Now,whetherornotitwas but Theaputatenderfinaroundthetopofherson’s agitation andlookedatyoungSimwithdisapproval and Simwasthereaswell.Theywavedtheirfinsin ers andwivesthatcouldmakeitawayfromtheenemy ledge oftheouterreef,Theahadgatheredallmoth- Abudef hopeditwouldwork. the rearandtosideschancetheyneeded. defense, butitwouldgivethegroupsattackingfrom Sergeant Majorsarethegenus . Severalsimilarspeciesmakea Note: Damselfishesbelongtothefamily THE END “Youareallheroes!”shoutedavoicefromthecrowd Those ofthemaraudingfishwhostilllivedswamfor And soCommanderAbudefledhisbravesoldiersinto “Reportingforduty,Commander!”Abudef’sheart Back inhershelteredhomedeepwithintherock severaltimestoincludethenewspecies.The (singular, , severalfamiliesmakean species Hesortedallorganismsintoasystem taxon isagroupofindividualswhich ). Westilluseseventoday Abudefduf order genus andsoonup Pomacentridae . . Several . AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 A fisherman taps a hole in a conch shell to extract the meat. Farmed conchs now meet the demand for this delicacy the Conch Farm the Conch in Turks & Caicos in Turks ALL ASHORE… What We Learned at Learned We What surprisingly they are pink in color like the inside The tour was far more interesting than we had For more information visit www.caicosconchfarm.com. The male has a dark appendage high up: that’s his sexThe male has a dark appendage At the end of the tour, there is a small gift shop and Not surprisingly, they are pink in color, like the inside of the conch shell. anticipated, and we’ve developed a keener appreciation for conch salad and conch fritters. organ. When he feels amorous, he climbs on top of aorgan. When he feels amorous, injects his sperm, fertilizingfemale and, if she is receptive, spawned at the conch farm,her eggs. When the eggs are until they hatch. Thethey are placed in an incubator called veligers, are thenhatchlings, tadpole-like forms month, they begin to grow aplaced in the nursery. In a At this point, theyshell and become bottom dwellers. so tiny they are like grains ofactually look like conch, but “The Nursery,” large tray- sand. Then they are moved from like enclosures, to sea ponds, where they are fed until ready to harvest (about two years). The ponds are enclosed by fences to keep other animals out. The major market for the harvested conch is Florida restaurants. museum where we were able to see a rare conch pearl. by Jacquelyn Milman DOWN 1) WARP 2) WATCHTACKLE 3) WALRUS 4) WATER 5) WAY 6) WANGAN 7) WASH 8) WHELP 9) WANE 12) WALKERS 13) WASHERS 14) WALT 17) WOW 18) WAS , is one of the largest herbivorous gas-

seen the you’ve ever been to Florida you’ve (pronounced “conk”) shells pretty, pink conch at souvenir shops throughout that abound are the Bahamas, driveways the state. In

At the conch farm, we got to meet Sally and Jerry, a The eggs float several miles out and fall to the ocean The female conch reaches sexual maturity at approx- We visited Caicos Conch Farm and took their tour. It But at the eastern end of Leeward Highway on the But at the eastern end of Today the conch is a food staple that is becoming Today the conch is a food In early days, Amerindians and European settlers In early days, Amerindians If ACROSS 1) WARN 2) WIN 3) WARD 4) WARTH 5) WATCH 7) WARRANTY 10) WATERAGE 11) WHY 12) WANY 13) WAKE 15) WALK 16) WASHSTRAKES 17) WAREHOUSE 18) WEATHER 19) WARSHIP CROSSWORD SOLUTION female and male conch respectively, kept in a shallow tank. When Portia picked them up out of the water, they immediately extended their bodies out of their shells. Portia could then use them to demonstrate how to tell a male from a female. floor where the juveniles hatch and bury themselves floor where the juveniles hatch and bury themselves in the sand to protect themselves from predators. They take three or four years to mature and can live as long as 20 years. In recent years, declining populations have resulted in the conch not breeding, thus adding to the decreasing number of conchs caused by over-harvesting. imately three and a half years of age, just a few imately three and a half years of age, just a few months after the flared lip of her shell is formed. Conchs gather in large spawning populations to breed. The reproductive season lasts from about May to November, and an individual female may spawn up to nine times during that span. Fertilization takes place internally, and copulation with the male may occur several weeks before spawning. It usually takes 24 to 36 hours to produce an egg mass, which consists of a single continuous egg-filled tube folded over upon itself to form a croissant-shaped collection of eggs. It is estimated that anywhere from 350,000 to 500,000 eggs are contained in a single egg mass. was pretty interesting. Portia, our tour guide, guided was pretty interesting. Portia, our tour guide, guided us through the facility, explaining the various stages of breeding conchs. Scientifically, the queen conch, Strombus gigas tropod mollusks. Its natural habitat is on sandy bot- toms where there are algae and sea grasses. Adults migrate — inshore during the summer months, and farther offshore during the winter months — with a range of two to eight kilometers during a season. While conchs have no known diseases or parasites, natural predators include sea turtles, nurse sharks, porcupine fish, rays, marine snails, and larger crabs and lobsters. Conchs burrow in the sand to escape from predators. As they mature, their shells become larger and harder, with spiny protrusions which serve as protection. island of Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos, there is island of Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos, there is a conch farm, the only one in the world, where conchs are cultivated. scarce as commercial interests demand larger and scarce as commercial interests sailing sloops were used larger supplies. Historically, outboards are used. A to hunt for conchs. Today, called a Bahamian glass-bottomed bucket (jokingly Then swimmers free- TV) is used to spot the conchs. conchs pretty much just dive to catch them. Since the “capture.” Because of this, sit there, they are easy to of the sea, they have been like many other creatures over-fished. harvested them as a food source because they were harvested them as a food water, thus making slow-moving and lived in shallow were nicknamed “conchs,” them easy prey. The settlers Keys. Bahamians, who a term still used in the Florida as out islands, referred to considered the Florida Keys Key West as The Conch Republic. lined with them and fences and walls decorated. These and fences and walls decorated. lined with them conch, a marine snail that, are the shells of the queen the Caribbean. in its wild state, is found throughout AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 watching at6:00 turtle nestingseason.Arrivingtosignupfor beach accessbetween6:00 and securedourdinghy. the bay.Herewefoundshelterfrompoundingsurf crete structurethatturnedouttobeacreek’sexit further andontheeastendofbeachfoundacon- we fearedcapsizingthedinghyonlanding,searched three-foot rollersbreakingontothesandybeach.As of thesurfcalledforasecondanchor. and anchoredontheeastsideofbay.Therolling Chris Doyle’s leatherback turtlesthananywhereelseintheworld. over toTobago.Thisbayisreputedhavemorenesting Riviere Bay,ourjumping-offspotforthedaylongsail make thejourneytoTobago. Trinidad thatweplannedonspendingthreedaysto north coastofTrinidad.WehadtoldCustomsin pulled anchorinScotlandBayandheadedalongthe and clearwaters.Aslightroseonthehorizonwe visiting itsworld-renownedbeautifulwhitebeaches to theneighboringislandofTobagoinanticipation vegetation, givingthemthesenseofprehistorictimes. edgeable certifiedguideonthebeachlaterineve- informative videoandbeingaccompaniedbyaknowl- per person(aboutUS$10)includedtheviewingofan regulations. Therequiredturtle-watchingfeeofTT$65 and informativestaffthatadvisedusontherules engineered nest Watching aleatherbackturtledigginghermeticulously Tel: +596(0)5967480Fax: 596 [email protected] A community-basedenvironmentalgroupcontrols Approaching theshorebydinghy,wefoundtwo-to We followedtheanchoringrecommendationsin We workedourwayalongthecoastandintoGrande We wereheadingfromthemarinasofChaguaramas ON Cruising GuidetoTrinidadandTobago PM weweregreetedbyaveryfriendly the mostpartvacant,withdense ed sandy-beachbaysthatarefor Trinidad, oneventuresintoisolat- the southernCaribbeanislandof Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin PM and6:00 AM dailyduring Antifouling Epoxy Batteries Marine Paints Plumbing Zinc Anodes IN MARTINIQUE MAINTENANCE BOAT FOR SPECIALIST THE —Continuedonnextpage dig theirnests. sand tofindtheperfecttemperaturewheretheywould us thattheywereactuallysensingthewarmthof searching forjusttherightspot.Ourguideinformed uneven beachofsoftsand.Eachturtleseemedtobe pounds ofmarinereptileoutthewaterandup yet determined. erate movefromwatertobeachappearedagonized imately fivefeetlongandthreewide.Theirdelib- the shoreline.Theywereleatherbackturtles,approx- we sawblackmovingmassesastheybegantoinvade facing forair,andtheyinvariablydrown. are trappedinthesenets,preventingthemfromsur- fishing. Insomeareasoneormoreturtlespernight ing leatherbacks. these arealargeproportionoftheworld’slastremain- more thanenoughturtles—untilonerealizesthat nesting turtles.Thisgivestheillusionthatthereare this beach,whichisnowgrosslyoverpopulatedwith in searchofasafenestingsite.Theresultiscrisison Australia, indicatingthatturtlesmighthavecomehere turtles thatweretaggedasfarawayMexicoand if asuitablesiteisn’tfound. seeking anewnestingsiteandabandoningegg-laying tures onthebeach.Inthiscase,turtlemoveson, where theyperceivedanger,suchashumansorstruc- hatched. Butturtlesapparentlywillnotlandtonest turtles willnestonthesamebeachwheretheywere over byhumandevelopment.Whenconditionspermit, the beachareastheyneedfornestinghavebeentaken gered species”listduepartlytothefactthatmanyof ing. Theleatherbackturtleisonthe“criticallyendan- of theworld. recorded andtaggedforidentificationinvariousparts also weretoldthatmanyindividualturtleshavebeen cockroach, rightthroughtheeonstotoday’sworld.We earth whohavesurvived,likeournuisancefriendthe and are,infact,amongthefewinhabitantsof that leatherbackturtlesdatebacktoprehistorictimes ning (itisillegaltogoalone).Welearnedfromthevideo The flippersturnedtolegs,inchingthe1,000-plus With thesunsettinganddarknessclosinginonus, The number-onedestroyerofseaturtlesisgill-net On GrandeRivierebeach,researchershavefound However, oneofthethingswelearnedwasdistress- byBillBate Turtle-Watching inTrinidad:

Interaction Than Le Marin A Little More A Little We Expected! Our stock,quality,price,know-howand fishingexperienceisunsurpassed YOUR #1CHOICEINFISHINGGEAR Mustad Hooks FISHING &DIVINGGEAR Penn &Diawa Anglers Lures Rods &Reels TACKLE SHOP TEL: (784)458-3420FAX: 458-3797 LULLEY‘S Wire, Floats,Nets,Twines,Ropes EMAIL: [email protected] Visit usforallyourneeds Some 80to100fertileeggsaredroppedintothenest DUTY FREE Foul WeatherGear Rigged &Unrigged Fresh Bait Leaders SERVING FISHERMENAND FRONT STREET WEST INDIES YACHTSPEOPLE BEQUIA SINCE 1950 Collectable Knives Courtesy Flags & DivingGear Snorkeling AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

CARRIACOU Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 [email protected] We were saddened by the loss of one of our anchors We were saddened by the loss We were reluctant to pull our main anchor in the In the morning we returned to shore to get daylight We tried to bring in the second anchor only to find We returned to bringing in the remaining chain rode. We rested for the remainder of the day and readied We recommend this experience, less the anchor but happy that the turtle was free to roam the oceans. but happy that the turtle was a good night’s rest — only We once again settled in for and rumble of an anchor to hear the low grumble dragging across rock. dark, not knowing if the turtle had wrapped the rope around our rudder and propeller, so we deployed a second anchor for safety. Finally the boat was no longer dragging and with the second anchor holding we were able to sleep. photos of the turtles on the beach. Then came the arduous task of diving under the boat to see if any damage had occurred the night before. Visibility was only two or three feet. that we couldn’t break it free. We proceeded to bring up the main anchor on its chain rode, but the windlass was under great stress. The reason for this was quickly revealed as the chain brought up a huge black iron anchor similar to that of old sailing ships, grossly corroded and covered in barnacles. Once released it sank to the bottom. To our delight our rope rode was wrapped around the chain and on the end of this was our sacrificed anchor, which we recovered. So the day was good — the sea had returned our missing anchor. ourselves for an early morning departure to Tobago. We looked forward to the pristine, clear waters and sandy beaches there. Although not to a Jurassic Park scale, we mused at the thought we had actually experienced a world wonder of prehistoric reptiles here at Grande Riviere. problem, to all those who cruise in this area during the turtle nesting season. It can also be experienced without the boat through tours arranged by Jesse James of Members Only Maxi Taxi Service in Chaguaramas, Trinidad. 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water Do it yourself or labour available Mini - Marina Chandlery New environmentally friendly haulout

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when we headed back to PM Settling in for a good night’s rest To my surprise there was a giant We saw approximately 20 turtles our boat. after an exciting day, we looked forward to a gentle rocking to sleep. The anchor was set and all was quiet in our “house”: not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse. When out on the bow there arose such a clatter, I sprang from my bed to see what was the matter. In my nightshirt and cap I climbed the companionway, to the deck to find the anchor rope in a swing and sway. no flashlights or camera flashes no flashlights or camera In are permitted on the beach. from developed areas, lights con- houses, hotels, etcetera, also fuse the turtles. in various locations in close prox- imity to us between 7:00 and 10:0 Judging by what we’d seen on the beach, this was The rope was across her back, under her neck and We searched for a way to free her safely and were Right and below: After laying the eggs, the leatherbacks lumber back into the sea leatherback tangled in our second anchor rode! one of the big ones. Caught in the rope, she was man- aging to pull the 16 tons of our boat. Then she swam back toward the boat, dove under it, and swam circles round and round the chain anchor rode, first to starboard then to port. around her left flipper at the shoulder. It would have been a simple matter for her to stop and back up to release the rode, but she seemed to be panicking and was seeing only forward as a way of escape. tempted to get in the dinghy and untangle her. We quickly determined that would be too dangerous in view of her size and strength, and therefore resolved that the only solution would be to sacrifice our anchor by releas- ing the rode. This we did and she was quickly set free.

and ask for Stan or Miguel! St. Vincent & The Grenadines Big Blue Building VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361

when the last egg-laying turtles slowly begin to

Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available. AM Look for the The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, Continued from previous page Continued from Over a beachfront area that is not greater than 100 Finally the second rank moves onto the beach and Now comes the disaster caused by overcrowding on Now comes the disaster caused At the waist of the hourglass design, the turtle gently At the waist of the hourglass The nest-digging process takes about 30 minutes process takes about The nest-digging As each turtle arrived at the location she had cho- arrived at the location she As each turtle

We understand that in order to return to the sea Bequia Marina yards, as many as 350 turtles have been seen lining yards, as many as 350 turtles have been seen lining up on the beach to come and lay their eggs, with a second rank following behind, blocking the first turtles from returning to the water and causing a traffic jam. finds just the right spots. They begin digging their nests over the top of the previous nests, throwing the first turtles’ eggs out and depositing their own. This process continues through the night, finishing around 6:00 this beach — a direct result of destruction worldwide this beach — a direct result beaches. of turtles’ original destination fills the small opening with sand, then covers over the fills the small opening with it all with her back larger hole above and compacts site is camouflaged, obliter- flippers. Finally, the entire ating any evidence of the nest. once the site has been chosen. The digging in itself is has been chosen. The digging once the site digs a design: each turtle deliberately of a miraculous engi- and meticulously hole that is hourglass-shaped of the hole are eggs laid at completion neered. The first and unfertilized. The grey, smaller, yellowish-colored size of a golf ball, are laid larger, fertile eggs, about the fertile eggs are dropped on top. After some 80 to 100 unfertilized eggs serves as into the nest, a covering of sand above, ensures protection from the compacting eggs and acts as a deter- that oxygen gets down to the rent to dog and bird predators. sen, her massive flippers began rotating her bulk in a flippers began rotating sen, her massive to scoop sand used her back flippers circle. Then she the sides. shell and throw it out to from under her — after laying their eggs, the turtles identify the location after laying their eggs, the turtles identify the location of the ocean as being the brightest area in the surrounding darkness. Flashes of a camera or flashlight coming from another direction can confuse a turtle, causing it to head in the wrong direction. Therefore, move back to the sea. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 such anintegralpart…” to dowithmoney…It’saboutpassion:passionfortheindustryofwhichhe’sbeen answer tothequestion“Whydidhedoit?”replies,“…itcertainlyhasn’tgotanything outlines evenmoreofJack’sgoodworksthanwehaveroomtolisthere,and,in essentially tocontinuethegoodworkthatJackDausendbegan…”Theeditorial would continuetoprovidenewsandviews… ThatJackBuilt This istheHouse Trinidad advertisingsalesanddistributionagentfor on the Boaters’ Enterprisewebsite.hasalsopartneredwithChrisDoyle Directory ofTrinidad&Tobago Trinidad &Tobago’syacht-serviceindustrythroughthe250-pageannual of Chaguaramasintothevibrantyacht-servicemeccaitistoday. their yacht the closureof to JackDausend:“ThemanagementcommitteeofYSATTconsideredtheeffects familiar toreadersof across totherelevantauthorities.” and theconcernscommentsofboatingpublic—bothlocalforeign vision istousethismagazineasatoolgetthewantsandneeds,wrongsrights in an81/2by11-inchformat.YSATT’smanager,GinaHatt-Carvalho,says,“Our Tobago (YSATT).Itsinaugural,June/July2008,issuecontains16full-colorpages Bay: Chaguaramas of the and promotionalservices,remainsasagentforthe ing publicationof ing tosmallerquartersfromitsChaguaramasoffice,downsizingstaffandsuspend- its websiteandorganizenumerousactivities. help mantheoffice,produceitspublications,designadvertisingmaterial,maintain Award bytheinternationalSevenSeasCruisingAssociation. 2007, JackwaspresentedwiththeprestigiousBatemanCruisingStationofYear to thecultureofhisadoptedcountry,includingpopular“TasteCarnival”.In Boaters’ EnterprisealumnusCatherineWhitbyisnowonthestaffofYSATT. That layinthehousethatJackbuilt. That killedtheratthatatemalt That tossedthedogthatworriedcat That milkedthecowwithcrumpledhorn That kissedthemaidenallforlorn That marriedthemanalltatteredandtorn That wakedthepriestallshavenandshorn That keptthecockthatcrowedinmorn This isthefarmersowinghiscorn W Jack foundedabusinesscalledBoaters’Enterprise,whichfor13yearspromoted Many yearsago,JackDausendandhiswifeCathyWinncametoTrinidadaboard Despite thelargerformatanduniquecoverdesign, Meanwhile, anewpublicationhasappearedontheTrinidadboatingscene. With Jackreachingtheageof75,Boaters’Enterpriserestructuredlastyear,mov- Over theyears,Boaters’EnterpriseemployedmanytalentedyoungTrinidadiansto Among manyotheractivities,Jackhostedseminarstointroducevisitingboaters Boaters’ DirectoryofTrinidad&Tobago Cruising GuidetoTrinidad&Tobago Wind Psalm linked tonumerousthingsandpeople…” who buildsahouse,butinsteadshowshowthehouseisindirectly ery rhyme…Itisacumulativetalethatdoesn’ttellthestoryofJack, ikipedia tellsus:“‘ThisIstheHouseThatJackBuilt’isapopularnurs- The Boca The Boca. is themagazineofYachtServicesAssociationTrinidad& The Boca anddecidedtostay.Thatdecisionhelpedtransformtheport andagreedthatitisimportanttopublishaperiodical Boaters’continuestooffergraphicdesign,advertising , anditsfirsteditorialcolumnpaysabundanthomage , amonthlyfreenewslettercalled The Bay , andforadecadeJackhasbeenthe is scheduledforJune2008delivery. TheBay’s comesaboutalmostbydefault, Caribbean Compass Compass inside pageswilllook The Boca . Thenextedition . , andthe Boaters’ The this newpublication’sthreetopmanagers. Boaters’ EnterprisegraduatesJanna-LiseChungandTiffanyCampbellaretwoof your navigatorguideis like apageortwohasbeentakenfromthe sive “yellowpages”foralladvertisersandaquickalphabeticallisting.Ifthissounds rants, festivities,accommodationandshopping,aswelltidetables,acomprehen- ing industry”.The240-pagepublicationwillfeatureinformationontours,restau- promises a“detaileddirectoryandguidepublicationaimedatthetourismyacht- That restonthefoundationsthatJackbuilt. That sailtoChaguaramasandstay That welcomecruisersfrommanynations That nowareinvolvedinnewpublications That weredesignedbybrightyoungTrinis That perusedtheadsforchandlersandboatyards That firstgaveavoicetobothwhinersandboatbards That tookovernowfromhisfavoriteoldrag This isthecruiserreadinganewmag But wait—there’smore!Theproposedannual to enjoythepleasuresofbay and taxiservices,maxisminis, scheduled toappearinJanuary2009. Boaters’ Directory Trinidad &TobagoIslandescape:

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Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! Find us right in the town BEQUIA VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch (range limited by the hills) CUSTOM-MADE West Indies. WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16 at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 supplies of For further information call Glenn Clement or including Welcomes you to Petite Martinique E-mail: [email protected] B & C FUELS A stepping stone as you GRENADINES GRENADINES ENTERPRISE Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. BIMINI & DODGER Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Your Expert Guide SAILS & CANVAS P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent &

INSTRUCTOR Come in and see us for all your TRAINING Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 , by Nancy Burke © 2006. Macmillan Caribbean. , by Nancy Burke © 2006. g p Available from bookstores or www.macmillan-caribbean.com. Despite their heroic exertions on behalf of their pets, this is not an account written Despite their heroic exertions on behalf of their pets, this is not an account written The book contains some minor editing glitches (notably misspellings of local place They packed up the animals, boarded a small freighter yet again and went back to But life in Montserrat proved to be untenable for them. “I had supposed we would After a year and a half in the countryside of St. Vincent, where Nancy was involved Her saga of crating up their pack of dogs and tribe of cats, and traveling with them for Determined to remain in the Caribbean, Nancy set off on a reconnaissance mission It wasn’t the volcano’s increasingly violent fiery explosions that drove the couple out It wasn’t the volcano’s increasingly violent fiery explosions But after they finally found the retirement island of their dreams, settled into a new But after they finally found the retirement island of their Nancy Burke relates with a warm intelligence how she and her husband, Richard, Nancy Burke relates with a warm intelligence how she This is the first non-fiction title to appear in the Macmillan Caribbean Writers This is the first non-fiction title to appear in the Macmillan …And the Sirens Still Wail by people who “love animals more than they love people”, as foreigners in the by people who “love animals more than they love people”, as foreigners in the Caribbean are often accused of doing. The Burkes took many displaced Montserratians into their home and assisted countless more. In St. Vincent, they let passers-by use their outdoor water tap to the extent that it became a regular neighborhood meeting place: “Our washbasin actually afforded us the opportunity to meet almost the entire community.” names), but the narrative is engaging and the structure follows an interesting non- chronological order. St. Vincent for good. fall back into the old groove… [but] there was no old groove to fall back into.” Too much had changed. And the volcano was still erupting. and contented, and Richard was bored and “homesick” for Montserrat, they figured it was safe to go back. They’d received word that the volcano was quieting down. Their house in the safe zone was still intact but needed attention. They packed up the animals, chartered another small freighter and sailed back to Montserrat. days aboard a small inter-island freighter to St. Vincent, is like the story of Noah’s Ark. to St. Lucia and Grenada, but after a chance communication with a friend she took a detour to St. Vincent — and it was love at first sight. of their beloved Montserrat. It wasn’t the swift, incinerating pyroclastic flows that of their beloved Montserrat. It wasn’t the swift, incinerating debris that buried the town of killed every living thing in their path. It wasn’t the of people they had come to Plymouth. It wasn’t the evacuations or even the deaths know. It was the insidious, unrelenting ash that covered everything, the film that grimed every surface, the dust that invaded every lung and burrowed down to the skin of each living creature. As the eruptions continued and more and more people left the island or moved into shelters, more and more dogs and cats were dumped on their doorstep, and the Burkes never turned an animal away. The fright, misery and endangered health of their collection of pets played a large part in the couple’s decision to leave their home for a temporary reprieve. home there in 1992, built a happy social life — and, not incidentally, acquired home there in 1992, built a happy social life — and, volcano came hideously alive numerous cats and dogs — Montserrat’s Soufriere Hills house was in the “safe zone”, in 1995 after a 350-year nap. And although the Burke’s “Ash came by the inch. instead of merely having city soot to contend with, way to shovels… Ash, rocks Accompanied by small warm rocks. The brooms gave I’ve ever experienced. No ground fine like baby powder, is the most invasive thing You eat it and breathe it… It door, no window, no tied plastic bag could keep it out. in the oven. It gets sucked up is on your toothbrush, in your bed, in your fridge, and running of a small animal in by your car’s engine and thrown about by the simple the grass.” coped with a twist of fate. She writes, “It had always been our dream to retire from coped with a twist of fate. She writes, “It had always wanted to get away from the New York City to ‘the good life’. No smog, no traffic. We minute they were opened…” greasy soot that found its way onto our windowsills the Series, and it’s a worthy one. Paperback, 166 pages. ISBN 979-4050-1703-9. Paperback, 166 pages. ISBN AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 charts. Fairtides! nadir tosoonafteritsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. moon’s settingtojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfrom moon reachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthe to theeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour calculate thetides. of themeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyou author ofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetime your passagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet, Read inNextMonth’s appear inbold): of the MARINA BASDUFORT For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmake 20 0224 19 0138 18 0054 17 0009 16 0000 15 2322 14 2235 (full) 13 2145 12 2054 11 2002 10 1911 9 1822 8 1734 7 1649 6 1604 5 1521 4 1437 3 1354 2 1304 1 1212 DATE TIME August 2008 (new) Ahoy, Seminole Marine Lemaire boatyard Forbin, Jean(boatyard) Forbin, Patrick(boatyard) Schip o’Case Caraïbe Covering Sunsail Sparkling Charter Sea andSail Pochon électronique Mécanique Plaisance Général Mécanique North Sails Amel Cap Sudmarine Tip Top Caraïbe Yacht Caraïbe Gréement La Frégaterestaurant Marin’art Karukera Marine Fred Marine Way Pointélectronique Marina office Carambola: StaroftheTropicalFruits MERIDIAN PASSAGE Caribbean Compass Don’t Worry,BeHappyinJamaica AUGUST &SEPTEMBER2008 Compass PICK UP! OF THEMOON Venezuelan BusAdventure Readers!WheninGuadeloupe,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue 8 1845 7 1724 6 1703 5 1614 4 1527 3 1441 2 1357 1 1313 DATE TIME September 2008 (new) 31 1228 30 1142 29 1053 28 0959 27 0902 26 0801 25 0658 24 0556 23 0457 22 0402 21 0311 Deshaies andBasseTerre. and restaurantsinPointeàPitre, … andmore! MARIE GALANTE LES SAINTES SAINT FRANÇOIS POINTE ÀPITRE Also lookforthe Tourism office Tourism office Reverie Caraïbe Ouessant Marine Hot MerAccastillage Saint FrançoisYachtClub AD Communication Tropical JetRacing SOGUAVA Yamaha SAD shipchandler Tropic Marine TIG boatyard Nautic Plaisance Speed Marine Zoo RockCafé Atmosphere organization Captain Nautic Compass atbars Compass 30 1234 29 1151 28 1107 27 1022 26 0936 25 0846 24 0753 23 0655 22 0554 21 0452 20 0350 19 0252 18 0157 17 0107 16 0019 15 0000 14 2333 13 2247 (full) 12 2201 11 2114 10 2026 9 1936 : around. Everyoneaspiringtobegoodcrew shouldwatch,studyandlearn. tials ofknottyingandlinehandling. approach, goodlinehandlingandthrowingcanbailoutapoorapproach.” lenge. AsDonStreetsays,“Badlinehandlingandthrowingcanruinagood lock —especiallywhenwindorcurrentaren’tbeinghelpfulcanbeamajorchal- sheet bendandsavetheday. during theregatta’slastracewhenalinepartedandwewereabletothrowinquick been slattingagainstthemastandkeepingeveryoneawake.Orwe’veheroes one darkandstormynightusingourbestrollinghitchtotieoffahalyardthat’s bit didn’tgothroughthehole.Butmaybewe’veredeemedourselvesbygoingondeck and seenitgoflyingthroughtheblock,orhaddinghyadriftbecauserab- can beatragedy.We’veallforgottentoputstopperknotintheendofjibsheet the endofanchorrodebecauselubber’sknotatbittercameundone main halyardgohalfwayupthemastinatangleisanembarrassment,butlosing ing them,iscriticaltotheefficientfunctioningofanyboat.Havingapoorlycoiled bends andsplices…. buntlines anddocklines. There areanchorrodes,warpsandhawsers.Andtherelines,includingclewlines, There isrunningrigging:sheets,halyards,guys,preventersandwhathaveyou. to “teachthemtheropes”—althoughfewifanyropesarecalledonaboat. music, asfortheknotdemonstrations,would’ve beennicehere,too. it? (Honestnow,whenwasthelasttime youusedahollowfid?)Alittlebackground strand linebywormingnewstrandsinto thewornpart,ratherthanjustreplacing many oftoday’ssailorswouldtakethetroubletorepairachafedsectionthree- cutting board,asDondoesinhisdemonstration.Thenwewentontowonderhow watching, wefirstwonderedhowmanyyachtsmenwouldusetheirteakdeckfor a to securethedocklinemessengerbeforethrowinglatter!) messenger ifnecessary.(Indemonstratingthis,there’salittlehiccup:It’sgoodidea stops, coilinglineforstowage,andthrowingadock—usingmonkeyfist and knots includetheusefulfisherman’sbendandtowboathitch. knot, squarebowline,halfhitches,sheetbendandrollinghitch.Advanced the usesofbasicknotsandhowtotiethem.Basicshownincludestopper hand astheDVDusesslowmotionandfreezeframestoshoweachstepexplaining What’s MyLine? Available atwww.sea-tvproductions.com/catalog.html. In thisone-hourDVD,the“sailor’ssailor”DonStreetwalksyouthroughessen- Coming alongsideadock,goingsterntoquay,andenteringmarinaslipor Learning howtohandlealltheseropesproperly,includingcoiling,tyingandthrow- And thenwehaveallthoseingeniousthingsyoucanmakewiththem,calledknots, One ofaskipper’smostimportanttaskswhennewcrewmemberscomeaboardis DVD. 60minutes,color.US$19.95. Don Street’sKnots,LineHandlingandThrowing. Ashley’s BookofKnots The sectiononsplicingmightbetheleastusedinformationthisDVD.While The sectiononlinehandlingincludescleatingandhalyards,tyingsail In theknottyingsection,youareadvisedtofollowalongwithtwopiecesofline in mightbethebible,butthisDVDismuch easiertocarry

AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 The oven version of Irish Soda Bread shown here is more rounded. The skillet, or The oven version of Irish Soda Bread shown here is more cut into fourths to farl version, will be somewhat flatter. Both are traditionally allow the bread to expand while cooking , out . Meanwhile, Spanish Stroll Compass Irish Soda Farls Soda Irish by Debby on Sunshine by Jim and Barbara McConn by Jim and

Epilogue: Having written this little story, I decided to wait until the story settled The shoe that died will remain on the side of the road as a permanent reminder to The repaired shoe looks almost perfect, and since I have had a lovely nap I’m ready Now lunch is over, we can get back to the shoe repair. But where did I put the glue? Onion and cheese sandwiches have always been a favourite. Just wipe a frying pan with A trip to the over-priced nearby store is required. Hey, we can even get some bread So the shoes finally get back aboard, and the owner, too. As we all know, every Jim and Barbara McConn sailed their 31-foot Southern Cross, the Jim and Barbara McConn sailed their 31-foot Southern Obviously the intact shoe Having to take a shoe home for re-gluing is an indignity. • Garlic farls: Cut crosswise and coat with butter before toasting under the broiler, • Garlic farls: Cut crosswise and coat with butter before time. Because the first time In my shoes’ experience, this would not be for the first • Tuna farls: Cut crosswise, top with tuna salad and sprinkle with parmesan • Tuna farls: Cut crosswise, top with tuna salad and That old shoe used to have a What happened to that shoe on the side of the road? They are also good later if cut crosswise and toasted, then spread with butter and jam. They are also good later if cut crosswise and toasted, then We also use them for: onions, whatever, and • Pizza farls: Cut crosswise, top with pizza sauce, pepperoni, We usually eat at least one piece immediately by cutting it crosswise (like an We usually eat at least one piece immediately by cutting Cover with a lid and cook on low heat for about five minutes on each side until Cover with a lid and cook on low heat for about five Warm a heavy bottomed, non-stick frying pan on low heat. Transfer the pieces to frying pan on low heat. Transfer the pieces Warm a heavy bottomed, non-stick Flatten the ball into a ten-inch circle approximately half an inch thick. Cut into circle approximately half an inch thick. Cut into Flatten the ball into a ten-inch Knead to mix all together and form a ball. But knead less than 30 seconds! Don’t form a ball. But knead less than 30 seconds! Don’t Knead to mix all together and 2 Cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2/3 Cup milk or buttermilk a mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the Mix the dry ingredients in Take a tip from the Irish and make your boat bread the quick and easy way: with make your boat bread the quick and easy way: with Take a tip from the Irish and on Isla Margarita, Venezuela, I went to Sambil Shopping Centre. Anyone who knows this centre knows that you have to dress up somewhat. Suddenly my gold sandal had a blow-out. Guess where I went? To the false nail shop, and bought, yes (I can’t believe I actually did it), superglue! New shoes are a trifle expensive at this centre. A few days later I had to buy new shoes to replace both the gold sandals AND the pair I wrote the above missive about. Makes one wonder doesn’t it? Now I am a happier soul, with two new pairs of shoes, and lots of half-used tubes of superglue. and I could make objective improvements before sending it to anyone who has a blow-out not to waste time trying to repair shoes. I take my hat off (the hat is another story), to the barefooters out there, or are you just returning from lunch? Go and buy another pair of shoes; save the superglue for boat repairs. to meet friends in the pub — with shoes on. Good friends, great times, and finally time to go back home. It was just a little stumble, I mean a really small trip, and the shoe broke again. This time, the broken shoe remains where it failed me and the good shoe stays on, because it deserves to. Why don’t they make superglue in bigger, brighter containers? Oh, there it is. Then in just two minutes, that is if the broken shoe is in a nearby findable location, the glue job is done. Eureka! A good day has been had — can’t wait for happy hour to celebrate. a little olive oil and heat it while you are preparing sandwiches with lots of cheese, chopped onion, a sprinkle of herbs, white pepper and a dash of chili. Place the sandwiches in the hot frying pan, toast for about a minute each side, slice and serve. Delicious! and onions, so that means the lunch problem will be solved. A few dollars more and the glue is purchased. Then it’s back to the dinghy, rinse off the aching dirty feet, and back aboard to have lunch and repair the shoes! boatowner has superglue. The glue has been in the refrigerator, repaired dinghies, fixed just about anything. Just when it is required to repair the favourite shoe, oh yes, it has gone hard. also has to be removed, because you would look really silly with one shoe on and the also has to be removed, because you would look really think you must have had other shoe off. Most of the people who see you barefooted and stones of a boatyard a “liquid lunch”. Who would walk barefooted on the coral a regular pace, as if nothing if they were sober? Not only that, you have to keep up causes your brain to burst happened, and the pain through the soles of your feet with little pebbles of pain. then rub with a fresh, peeled garlic bulb while still hot. back to the boat to be glued, one of my shoes experiences a blow-out it gets taken especially if it is a favourite shoe. cheese before heating under the broiler. to a conscientious owner. best friend (Lefty or Mister Right), and possibly belonged “took to the road” by burst- But one day this old shoe decided to be adventurous and ing a strap. sprinkle with parmesan cheese before heating under the broiler. sprinkle with parmesan cheese before heating under have since logged over 30,000 of Redondo Beach, California on April 9th, 2004. They Their recent 5,400-mile miles while crossing four oceans and visiting over 20 countries. Caribbean lasted 65 days and passage around the Cape of Good Hope and up to the plan to transit the Panama took them across the equator for the fourth time. They year. Canal and complete their first circumnavigation early next CRUISIN’ SHOES English muffin) and spreading it with butter and jam. golden brown. (If the pan is too hot, the outside of the bread will burn before the golden brown. (If the pan is too hot, the outside of the inside is cooked through.) the warmed pan (I use a pancake spatula to lift and transfer them). Arrange the pancake spatula to lift and transfer them). Arrange the warmed pan (I use a leaving a quarter of an inch between the pieces. pieces back into a pie shape, fourths (like a pie) with a table knife. fourths (like a pie) with a table handle the dough too much, and don’t use extra flour if possible. handle the dough too much, milk all at once. Stir immediately and vigorously. Turn out of bowl onto flat surface. and vigorously. Turn out of bowl onto flat surface. milk all at once. Stir immediately in the bowl, place it on top.) (If there’s any dry stuff left baking soda or baking powder rather than yeast. Various types of soda bread are rather than yeast. Various types of soda bread baking soda or baking powder can be made in the oven, but the “farl” version, cooked made in Ireland. A loaf form the stovetop, will hardly heat up your galley at all. in a skillet or frying pan on More Easy Stovetop Bread: Easy Stovetop More AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 Your #1 Choice forProvisioning Trinidad and Tobago 2A Roberts SpainStreet, Port of Waveney Richards, M.App. Sci.,M.A. Call to schedule appointments appointments Call toschedule J C S useful magazine!” and very interesting THE FOODSTORE Corea a Fine Wine,Cheeses,FreshFruits,Vegetables Lasting results free Drug non-invasive Completely Painless process r e c “The Compassisa u www.caribbeancompass.com Join ourgrowinglistofon-linesubscribers! l a to beheldinTrinidad i June thruSeptember June y Monday-Saturday: 8amto 12pm &3pmto6pm s s 12 issuesUS$29.95,24 issues US$53.95 n Tel: (784)488-8479Fax:456-5230 e not been seasick once this once seasick not been

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y o u a lifetimeofshadeanddeliciousfruit. high-nitrogen fertilizermixmonthly,and watchforpests.Yourtreeshouldgiveyou run thehosetowaterforatleastanhour amonthforexcellentfruit.Tendwith bear inaboutthethirdyear.Keepyoung treesadequatelywatered.Inthedryseason a dwarfgraftedmango,allowcircumference ofatleast50feetforthetree.Itshould for anotherfifteenminutes. Place inacoveredroastingpan.Bakeat 350°Fforonehour,thenuncoverandbake meat, chicken,orfishdishes.Eatwithsadaroti,chips. sit forhalfanhourbeforebakingat350°Fonehour. else. Mixwithabigspoon.Placeingreasedandflouredbreadpan.Letthemixture 350°F for35minutes. and butteruntilmixtureiscrumbly.Droptheflourmixovermango.Bakeata greased 10by10-inchbakingdish.Blendbrownsugar,flour,remainingcinnamon with vanillaicecreamorwhippedifdesired.) let steamescape.Bakeat400°Fforonehour.Letstandtillcoolbeforeserving.(Serve fingers andpressedgesofbothcruststogether.Usingafork,neatlyjabthetopto with onepastrycrust.FillitfruitmixandcovertheotherWetyour Add aquartered,seededhotpepperifyou“havemouth”. and threeleavesofchadonbene,choppedfine.Mixtogetherletsitforanhour. possible. Putinabowlandmixwithsalttotaste.Addtwoclovesofgarlic,grated, mango canbepreparedintokutchela,chutney,preserves,takariandamchar. grafted, Ceylonandothers.Mypersonalfavoritesaredou-doucalabash.Green starch, rose,Julie,calabash,dou-dou,turpentine,Graham,ten-pound,spice, has about100calorieswithnocholesterolandhalfofthenecessarydailyfiber. because theycontainplentyoffiber,vitaminsAandC,potassium.Onelargemango soothing enzyme.Mangosnotonlymakeyoufeelgood,theyaregreathealthwise are over20millionmetrictonsofmangosgrownyearly. mid-1700s. Moremangosareeatenthroughouttheworldthananyotherfruit.There producer ofmangoswithveryfewexported.MangostraveledtotheCaribbeanin man-kay, whichPortugueseexplorerschangedtomanga.Indiaisstillthelargest 100,000 hectaresofmangotrees.Theword‘mango’isderivedfromtheTamilword, kings hadvastorchardsoftrees.AnEmperorDelhi,Akbar(1556to1606) Himalayan Mountains.Mangoswereoneofthefirstfruitshumansfarmed.Asian at thebeachandtakeawash-offdip. uncomfortably forwardsothejuicedripstoground,butwhybother?Eatthem Some recommendconsumingajuicymangowhilewearingbib!Youcanlean I’ve readarticlesonhowtoeatthisfruitwithoutamess,butdoesitreallymatter? Choose yourfavoritetypeofmangoand seek outatreevendor.Unlessyouchoose For theGardener Prepare chickenforroasting.Mixremainingingredientsandstuffthechicken. 1 mediumonion,chopped 2 chadonbeneleaves,choppedfine 1 smallhotpepper,minced 2 veryripemangos,peeled,halvedandpitted 1 wholechicken Mango StuffedChicken Combine allingredientsandchill.Useasanaccompanyingsauceormarinadewith 1 Tablespoonfreshlimejuice 1 smallhotpepper,minced 1/2 CupdicedredSpanishonion 1/2 Cupdicedredsweetpeppers 1 Cupdicedmangos Mango Salsa In abowl,combinedryingredients.Createpondinthecenterandaddeverything 2 Cupsdicedmangos 3 eggs 1/2 teaspoonvanillaextract 3/4 Cupcanolaoil 1 Cupbrownsugar 1/2 teaspoonsalt 2 Tablespoonsgroundcinnamon 2 Tablespoonsbakingsoda 2 Cupsflour Mango Bread Mix mangos,nutmeg,1teaspoonofthecinnamon,andlemonjuiceplaceina 1/4 Cupsoftbutterormargarine 1/2 Cupflour 1/2 Cupbrownsugar 1 Tablespoonlemonjuice 1 1/2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon 1/4 teaspoongratednutmeg 5 Cupsripemangos(peeledandsliced) Mango Crisp Combine allingredientsexceptpastryandletstandfor15minutes.Lineapiepan Two 9-inchpastrycrusts 1 Tablespoonbutterormargarine,melted 1/4 teaspoonsalt 3/4 Cupbrownsugar 2 Tablespoonsquicktapioca 3 Cupsofslicedmangos(peeledandsliced) Mango Pie Slice atleasttwohalf-ripemangos,withthepeelandseedremoved,asthinly This isauniquewaytoeatthissweetfruit. Mango Chow There areover1,000varietiesofmangosthroughouttheworld.TheCaribbeanhas Mango isatrue‘comfortfood’because,likepapaya,mangocontainsstomach- About 4,000yearsagothemangooriginatedinEastIndiafoothillsof Mangos, mangos,juicedripping,shirtstainingmangosareatrueCaribbeantreat. Marvelous Mangos SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL

AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 tel: 440-2310 tel: grenada The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 BEQUIA Tel: (784) 458 3041 e-mail: [email protected] Jewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks

rare + + crafts exotic arts interior design young street st. georges New Location at Gingerbread Café New Location at Gingerbread Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.

Either of two methods can be used If the recipe calls for slow cooling, and then add the rocking pressure regulator. Reduce the heat to low and wait until the regulator starts to rock. Start your cooking time at that point. The gentle sound of escaping steam as the pressure regulator rocks back and forth assures you all is well. When the required cooking time is reached, turn off the heat and remove the cooker from the stove. for cooling the cooker before opening it. The cold water method is the fastest. Simply run cold water over the entire pressure cooker and you will hear the pressure drop quickly. The small pressure safety valve will drop and you can then remove the regulat- ing rocker. Now it ‘s fine to unlock the cooker and savor the results. Everything inside will still be very hot so be careful. then let the pot cool naturally before opening it. The contents continue to cook until the pot is nicely cooled. Season with salt and pepper. Remove . Follow the directions that come with your cooker for There. Now you know everything I know about pres- Vesuvius Chicken An easy chicken dish that is full of flavor and a 3 Tablespoons (45 ml) olive oil 1 three- to five-pound (1.5 to 2 kg) chicken, cut up 1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt and pepper mixed 4 to 6 small potatoes, peeled and halved 6 cloves garlic, diced) 1/4 Cup (60 ml) chicken broth 1/2 Cup (125 ml) white wine 1 teaspoon oregano a sprinkle of red pepper flakes 1 lemon, sliced parsley or chopped chives to garnish Heat oil in cooker and brown chicken pieces over Put potatoes in the cooker. Add balance of ingredi- After 15 minutes, remove cooker from heat and cool need to replace the rubber gasket that seals the lid to need to replace the rubber gasket that seals the lid to the pan or the small rubber relief valve. Other than that, only a good clean up is necessary, just like any other pot or pan. best results. Basically, brown meats in the pan over medium heat. When nicely browned, add veggies and the required amount of cooking liquid. Bring this nicely to the boil and clamp on the cooker lid. Let steam escape for 30 seconds or so from the relief valve sure cookery. It is my preferred way to make baked beans, chili, stews, soups and incredibly tender cuts of meat from cheap, tougher cuts. Here’s a recipe you’ll want to try. breeze to prepare. Don’t let the name frighten you. It has nothing to do with the volcano. medium heat chicken when browned. ents except for lemon slices and place chicken on top. Lay lemon slices on chicken. Bring mixture to a boil and close cooker lid. When steam starts to come from vent, add pressure regulator. Once regulator starts to rock, start timing and cook for 15 minutes, adjusting heat to keep regulator rocking gently. quickly with cold water. When pressure has dropped, remove lid. Remove chicken and potatoes to a platter. Reduce liquid over medium heat (no lid this time) until nicely thickened and pour over chicken and potatoes. Serve hot. Garnish with parsley or chopped chives.

A Most Valuable Tool Valuable A Most

There are several models of pressure cookers now on What exactly is the secret to pressure cookery? Quite Furthermore, on board a boat, pressure cookers Someone asked what I would take with me if left on Ah yes, you say, but I’m still frightened to use one. • Finally, don’t try to open the cooker until the pres- • Never use high heat; medium is fine. • Never use high heat; medium liquid called for in the • Use the exact amount of • Always make sure the pressure relief valve is clear• Always make sure the pressure • Never fill the cooker more than two thirds full. • Never fill the cooker more A few simple rules make pressure-cooking a breeze A few simple rules make pressure-cooking So don’t shy away from a pressure cooker. Reduced cooker. Reduced So don’t shy away from a pressure Whenever I mention pressure cookers, some folks Whenever I mention pressure A pressure cooker can provide easy one-pot meals like A pressure cooker can provide easy one-pot meals like Vesuvius Chicken, to serve solo or dress up with a salad and crusty bread the market. I still use my old standard Presto model that is more than 30 years old. Occasionally you may simply, water boils at 212°F or 100°C at sea level. At 15 pounds pressure, the top pressure-cooking pressure, water boils at 250°F. The higher temperature cooks foods faster. Furthermore, the retention of juic- es and flavors allows nutrient-rich and scrumptious broths and gravies to be made with little effort. Seafood stews, poultry dishes and even steamed clams are easy fare for the pressure cooker. Custards, cakes and stewed fruit exhibit the cooker’s full repertoire. work well during a heavy slop, when other pots spill their contents. Also, pressure cookers can be used quite safely to temporarily keep excess food. If you are only able to consume half the pot of stew, carefully pour out only that amount you will be consuming. Replace the lid, bring the contents to the boil until the safety valve jiggles, and then remove the pot from the stove. While cooling, the valve is sucked tightly to the pan, keeping everything inside vacuum sealed, as in a tin can. This method depends upon not introducing a spoon or ladle into the cooker. The spoon or ladle may contain bacteria that can lead to spoilage. I chose. The chance of having electricity or gas for cooking would be remote at best, so leave all those high-fangled gadgets behind. A pressure cooker can be used over a wood fire. The toughest wild pig can be cooked into tender succulent pork dishes and fruit turned into delicious puddings. a deserted island. A good knife, a small fire grate and a deserted island. A good knife, a small fire grate and a basic pressure cooker were the only cooking utensils Well, look at it this way: it can be a lot like sailing Well, look at it this way: it can be a lot like sailing when you pop the chute. Granted, more care and attention are necessary then, but the results are won- derfully exhilarating and most gratifying. sure has dropped. recipe. This will assure no burnt offerings. of any blockage before you put the cooker on the heat.of any blockage before you Bubbling lentils or split peas can block the rocking Bubbling lentils or split peas pressure valve. Not good. and not a hurricane. cooking time, barely any loss of nutrition. Incredibly of nutrition. Incredibly cooking time, barely any loss even from the cheapest tender, savory dishes — a properly used pres- cuts of meat — emanate from sure cooker. run for cover. Nothing could be safer when used prop- run for cover. Nothing could tool in your galley is erly. In fact, the most dangerous deadly if used incorrectly. definitely a knife. It can be by Ross Mavis The Pressure Cooker: Cooker: Pressure The AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 40years,36withLloyds,andmyclaims I havebeeninthe or e-mail:[email protected] Iolaire Enterprises(353)28-33927 settlement recordcannotbebeat. “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood www.street-iolaire.com Then,iftheclaimisdenied Insurance or unsatisfactorilysettled, Fax DMStreet Marine it istoolate. insurance business Dear Iolaire Don Street based pollutionisstopped. in theEasternCaribbeanisinsolubleuntilshore- quality inlagoonsandotherenclosedbodiesofwater 1,000 yardsoffshore.Buttheproblemofpoorwater rule: nodischargeofholdingtanksunlessatleast authorities enactand up afterhisdive. You havetolearnthatyourself. the expertsneverexplainwhattheyare talking about. broadcasts from“theexperts”.However, oftentimes, fore, becomedependentuponhigh-frequency radio give upeasyaccesstoweatherbroadcasts and,there- some securityforthefreedomthatyougain. Youalso stay outofharm’sway.Livingonaboat yougiveup and gatherthevariousweatherforecasts inorderto those intheCaribbean),welearnedto watch, listen, about tropicalweather. easy toreadandunderstand,aswelldetailedreport [ “Understanding TropicalWeatherandHurricanes” cock. the poorskipperdivingintoittoclearacloggedsea- not onlywasIinSimpsonBayLagoonbutwitnessed a 52-footBaltic,fortheSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta, the lagoon.Howeverin2005whilesailingon Dear issue of marine pollutionwhichappearedintheFebruary2008 accusing meofwriting“drivel”inmyarticleabout say, myengineless the shoreeveryyearfrom1960to2006.Needless “for averylongtime”,Ihaveviewedthelagoonfrom flushing actioninenclosedharborstheCaribbean. more. Withthissmalltidalrangethereislittleorno equinox itwillreach24inchesandsometimesabit at neaps,18inchessprings;thespringandfall The tidalrangeintheCaribbeanisusually12inches not onlyadequateopeningsbutalsoalargetidalrange. “brown clouds”)incertainotheryachtharbours? ally seenthemdo(evidencedbyhuge,foul-smelling holding tanksinSimpsonBayLagoon,asI’veperson- treatment facilities?Dotheyneverdischargetheir Can itbecategoricallystatedthatALLhaveadequate ment facilitiessotheircontributionisrelativelysmall.” statements. based sources. where intheCaribbeanSea,islargelyfromshore- is good. charged intotheseaisverypolluting. water (andchemicals)inholdingtanksandthendis- cleaning them. diapers weresufficient,andthefishdidagreatjobof disposable (andnon-biodegradable)diapers:fourcloth who raisedfourchildrenon rapidly andthefishloveit.WitnessStreetfamily, lution becausethisorganicdischargebreaksdown waste directlyintotheseaactuallyproducelittlepol- but I’dliketotakeissuewithsomeotherstatements. tion problem”.Hislettermakessomeverygoodpoints, Lagoon (St.Maarten)hasaparticularlyseriouspollu- ing withSt.ThomasandcontinuingsouthtoGrenada. tion harborbyintheEasternCaribbean,start- Compass Water qualityinallharborscanbeimprovedifthe Having spentover14yearsaboard Big kudostoClaytonLewisforhisterrificarticle Re: Robbie Ferron’s letter in May’s Readers’ Forum Re: RobbieFerron’sletterinMay’sReaders’Forum As formynothavingbeeninSimpsonBayLagoon Flushing actionofanenclosedbodywaterdemands Robbie’s letterstates:“All”mega-yachts“havetreat- All theabovearetrue,butlet’sexaminesomeother True: ThepollutioninSimpsonBayLagoon,aselse- True: Wherecurrentisstrong,flushingaction It’s alsotruethathumanwastemixedwithfresh It’s truethatyachtheadspumpinguntreatedhuman First, thepointsweagreeon. Robbie insists:“ItisnottruethattheSimpsonBay Compass Compass Kinship’s Compass June2008].Heputtogetherawonderful, Readers’ Forum skippertookaLONGshowertoclean , , . InthatarticleIlookedatthesitua- Iolaire enforce and theBritishVirginIslands’ Iolaire Li’l Iolaire withoutusingany Pizazz nevervisited Kinship (11of , the boataround10:30 south endoftheisland,haddinnerandreturnedto avail ourselvesofabitlocalknowledgeandcomply. etcetera. HavingneverbeentoDominica,wedecided call “X”,tomakethemooringavailable,collectafee, ed bythepromptarrivalofalocalboatboy,whomI’ll the AnchorageInn.Ofcoursethisdecisionwasassist- does tours,yachtservices,etcetera).Itisjustnorthof pick upamooringballinfrontofSeaCat’sboat(he on aSunsailbareboatcatamaranandproceededto readers ofourrecentincidentinRoseau,Dominica. Dear S/V Helena Eddy Huybs Regards, Virgin Islands? cruise USterritoriessuchasPuertoRicoandthe tor’s visaformycrewmember/fiancéesowecan where Icangowithmyproblemaboutgettingavisi- another “no”? US$200 andgettingalotoffrustration—forwhat, appointment —whichmeanspayinganother is apparentlynotenoughfortheUSgovernment. cée hasfamily—twosistersandamotherbutthat such asaspouseorchildren).Mycrewmember/fian- try (forexample,proofofstrongfamilyconnections that he/shehasgoodreasonstogobacktheircoun- cation willbedeniedwhentheapplicantcannotprove country, Venezuela.Rule214Bsaysthatavisaappli- ber/fiancée cannotprovethatshewillgobacktoher US Immigrationrefusesavisabecausemycrewmem- she hasnoworkingcontract.Myproblemisthatthe crewmember/fiancée isnotanemployeeonmyboatso States doesnotaddressmyparticularproblem.My appropriate forforeignyachtcrewsenteringtheUnited However, yourresponseexplainingthesortsofvisas Hi Call sign:Sea-Mistress Sandi Pomeroy enough tokeepthemaway.Goodthing! were tired!Theincidentshookthemupbadlybutnot wasn’t asafeplacetoanchorforthenightbutthey they firedflaresthroughasmallhatch.Theyknewit They werelockedinandnoharmcametothemafter boarded whiletheywereaboardatPuertoSantos. because ofanunfortunateexperience.Theirboatwas I amsogladtheydidn’tstayawayfromVenezuela Sundays. Theyareawelcomecoupleatthegamesand in Porlamarwhentheycametoplaydominoeson 27-foot Dufour,andIwaspleasedtomeetDianehere Lauderdale severallifetimesagowhenIhadmyown return oftheyacht they reportedtheirincident)Iwashappytoseethe in Bonaire Formerly aboard Lourae andRandy and FionaareenjoyingColombiaPanama. weather isallabout.And,Clayton,wehopethatyou read thisarticleandnowunderstandwhattropical Clayton, foragreatjob!Wehopethatmostcruisers Train domino sessions that take place weekly. Train dominosessionsthattakeplaceweekly. the supermarketshere.IalsoenjoySundayMexican weather intheCaribbeananddotheirprovisioningat goings ofthecruiserswhocometoenjoybest Margarita, Venezuela,Ienjoywatchingthecomingsand Dear Compass, can [email protected]. at [email protected]. ested, canrequestacopyofourguidebycontactingus er —morethanjusttropicalconditions.Anyoneinter- Colombia coast.Thatcoastissubjecttoitsownweath- data withallcruisersheadingwest(oreast)alongthe Guide andinformation.Wegladlyshareourgathered —Continuedonnextpage passports andcreditcards. better but—hindsight.Thegoodnewsis theyleftthe Yes, Iknow,itshouldhavebeendivided andhidden from thewalletonboatwhilewewere sleeping. bill anddiscoveredthatallthecashhad been removed ingly uneventful. open hatch).Thenightpassedquietlyand wasseem- mist ofaneveningdrizzleinanotherbunk (underan after turningin,decidedtoswitchcabinsenjoythe mooring ballonthehulls. enough toinvestigatethemaswethoughtitwasthe sounds” wewereawareofsomenoisesbutnotalarmed ed andwenttobedearly. After clearingCustoms,weexploredabitofthe We arrivedearlyintheafternoonofJune13,2008 It iswithregretthatIfeeltheneedtoinformyour Can any In theUSembassytheytoldustomakeanother Thank youforpublishingmyletterintheJuneissue. The nextdayatbreakfastashore,wewent topaythe I leftmypurseinthecabinandabout20minutes Not beingfamiliarwiththisboatandher“night Clayton explaineditallinsimpleterms.Thankyou, After readingtheJuneissueof From thefifthfloorofmylittlecondoinPorlamar, Editor’s note:AnelectroniccopyofClayton’sarticle P.S. WecontinuetoreceiverequestsforourColombia Compass Compass Compass , , Pizazz readerstellmeifthereisanoffice Moon Goddess PM . Wewerebothquiteexhaust- but nowlivingonland Compass . IknewJoeinFt. (inwhich AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 LTD

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LA Times article said, “It’s article. And “the article. And It’s a Sea Cat’s Life for Mishima aboard El Vagabond LA Times article, is evenly spread among the article, is evenly reported initially on one of the reported initially Yachting Monthly Readers, LA Times Compass On the bright side, all this publicity has resulted in Until governments join together in establishing We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines Yachting Monthly the trauma of those on None of this is to detract from that in the time period since then, the increase in period since then, the that in the time Venezuela, almost exclusively from reports has come the even mentioned in either an area not story nor the increase in the use of weapons”, a direct quote from use of weapons”, a direct increase in the me in the to hear that some are saying that their standard of living is responsible for crime. a much wider audience for the Security Net. Many of the reports I receive now are from charter boats via the website — prior to the recent press coverage, charter boats were an untouched audience. So these visitors are coming to the Caribbean much wiser in terms of which anchorages to avoid and what precautions are appropriate in other anchorages. methodologies to track and publicize these reports, the single best source for this information is www.safetyandsecuritynet.com, not your next-door neighbor nor the blogs you find on the Internet nor the rumors you hear on the radio or in the press. And certainly not the articles by authors and publishers who rely upon sensationalism to sell their product. Melodye Pompa S/Y Second Millennium for the Caribbean Safety and Security Net SSB 8104.0 at 1215 UTC www.safetyandsecuritynet.com Dear a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. play. guys who don’t want to work” but still want cell guys who don’t want to and yes, probably phones, CD and DVD players, to blame for the crimes drugs. If in fact, poverty were of crime would be much against yachts, the incidence in the island chain and in higher. Most of the people hard-working folks who Venezuela are good, honest, means to an end. In fact, do not consider crime as a they are as horrified as we are when their community is damaged by one of these incidents and are insulted island chain covered by the article and Venezuela. island chain covered include so- incidents but went on to Chateaubelair recollections commentary, rumors and called “expert” number of sources, some ofof isolated incidents from a 40 years, but with thewhich were looking back some incidents were very recent.implication that all of these response to criticism isHardly factual reporting! Their protect their readers, butthat they must advise and the rumors. instead they are promulgating of the people were in fear board the yachts involved. All reason, with someone for their lives and with good in their faces. But let’s flailing a machete or a pistol as the excuse — these not fall back on blaming poverty to feed their families. As men were not robbing in order one fellow quoted in the , the LA Times , and the newspaper, Seattle Times , the March issue of , the a few days away from , and numerous websites Yachting Monthly Los Angeles Times Cruising World Detroit News El Vagabond Sun-Sentinel , Readers, , the Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Mind you, I’m cruising the Caribbean for now but I I’m not sure what is meant by a “dog’s life” but I sure Crime against yachts has received lots of press over Would I change things? No chance — I rule the roost Yes, the Caribbean Safety and Security Net has Having crossed the Bay of Biscay twice and the Having crossed the Bay As I sit here on One other word of caution: the Dominican Coast One other word of caution: The incident was also reported to the Dominican was also reported to the The incident We checked around with other locals and Sea Cat with other locals and We checked around There is no question as to when the money was sto- as to when the money There is no question While I acknowledge that the Security Net does not Maybe it’s good news that the problem is receiving the UK-based magazine am a bit concerned as I keep hearing mentions of am a bit concerned as I keep hearing mentions of “Chile next year”. I just hope it’s warm there.... am enjoying this Sea Cat’s Life. the past six months or so: the January issue of the US-based magazine in this confined space my parents call a boat. I’ve got in this confined space my parents call a boat. I’ve got loads of cosy hideaways, food available 24 hours a day and am constantly spoilt with Mum and Dad on permanent call. received yet another report of an armed boarding in Chateaubelair, St. Vincent. And seven reports from Venezuela, including armed boardings off the Paria Peninsula and in Isla Margarita, at both Porlamar and Pampatar: all this since the beginning of June, when security issues traditionally slow down. Mishima Mortimer El Vagabond Dear Atlantic Ocean last year I guess I’m a pretty experi- Atlantic Ocean last year I enced sailor with over 12,000 sea miles and looking forward to many more. my 126th birthday (18 years to you humans), rolling my 126th birthday (18 years right, I must confess to to the left and then to the for the warm, cosy, occasional nostalgic feelings I used to live. unmoving apartment where Guard, while very respectful, likes to check your boat Guard, while very respectful, that they are coming and going. It is understandable and want to maintain a combating drug smuggling however, that they strong presence. Do be advised out fenders when they don’t make a practice of putting so be prepared. come to check your vessel, Happy cruising, Tanya and Marion Dear Coast Guard and the Board of Tourism as well. Most and the Board of Tourism Coast Guard very sad to island whom we met was everyone on the Dominica and assured us that hear of our misfortune place. These folks is usually a safe and trouble-free island. take a lot of pride in their beautiful himself has a good name and reputation. He was quite good name and reputation. himself has a incident. upset about the len, only “who done it”! We have our theories. len, only “who — receive reports of all crimes against yachts, I believe that what we do receive is a fair indication of what and where the problems are. Yes, Chateaubelair has been a problem spot since the recent rash of armed robber- ies began in November 2007. But the data indicates which article was picked up and reprinted by the Baltimore Sun South Florida says: “attacks on yachts…with increasing frequency” and “dozens of incidents involving beatings and stab- bings”. And what is most embarrassing to me is that they are quoting the Security Net’s website as the source of that misinformation! some attention, but the bad news is that the rate of incidents has been vastly exaggerated. The June 6th issue of the and blogs. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 4 06Ausa eba,10PYmh $34,900 $167,000 $60,000 $119,000 38’ 1999SeaRaySundancer,mercruisers,18kts, $69,000 32’ 1996Carver325,twincrusadersgreatcondition$99,000 31’ 1999SeaRaySundancer,newengines,2005$79,900 $79,500 14’ 2006AquascanJetboat,160HPYamaha 43’ 1995Hunter430,steppedtransom,2strms 40’ 1987O’DaySloop,Westerbeke,2strms 40’ 1986HunterLegendroomy,aftcockpit 37’ 2001BavariaSloop,3strms,Yanmardiesel Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale ST. 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now cruisingtheCaribbeanaboard after drinking. tion, evenforsomeoneyouknow,and stronglydiscourageanyswimming accidental drowning.Ourpassportsand theship’spaperswerereturned. Embassy becameinvolvedandeveryonewasveryprofessionalintheirefforts. port tonotifyincaseofemergency,andheinformedherfamily.TheUS were seized.IcontactedthepersonwhosenameJanhadwritteninherpass- Army helicopter,andwasrecoveredbyanboatonSaturdayafternoon. boat andnothingwasfound.EventuallyJan’sbodyseenfloatingbyaFrench numerous times,togetherandseparately.Diverssearchedtheareaaround make areport. information, gavemedirectionstothepolicestationandtoldgothere when nothingwasfound,IcalledtheCoastGuardagain.Theytooksame went togetsomesleep.Wewereupatsunrisechecktheareaagainand said tostandby. French CoastGuard,whotooktheinformation,askedseveralquestionsand making manyever-increasingcirclesIreturnedtotheboatandcalled couldn’t spotherandIjumpedintothedinghytogolooking.Afteranhourof of swimmingstopped. she wasready.Itduringhernextswimawayfromtheboatthatsound should comebackonboard.Shemerelystatedthatshewouldwhen When shecamebacktotheboatIsuggestedthathadenoughfunand boat, andthenbeganswimmingoutbackinseveraldifferentdirections. stern andwaslaughingsplashingaround.Shedidafewlapsaroundthe replied thatshewasagoodswimmer,whichhadprovenseveraltimes. been drinking,itwasdark,andswimmingwouldnotbeagoodidea.Shesimply utes. Shementionedthatshewantedtogoswimming.Irepliedhad After themoviewasoverIwenttobowandtalkedwithherforafewmin- it before,however,soshewentoutonthebowtowatchmooncomeup. later andweallwentbacktotheboat. would takeherbacktoshorefortheafternoon.PatandImetondock was quitepleased.WeallwentbacktotheboatforlunchandJanaskedifI when shecheckedherbankthatincometaxrefundhadarrivedand ing Internet,gettingsomeprovisionsandjustlookingaround.Jandiscovered de France.ByFridaythe23rd,Janwasdead. arrived onWednesdayMay21standwemovedtheboattomaincity,Fort her adventureintodiscovery. Everyone washappytoanswerherquestionsandhelpguidealongon would askendlessquestions.Shewantedtoknowitall,andrightnow. very friendly. found therainforestsbreathtaking,waterfallsrefreshingandpeople endless picturesoftheexoticplacesshewasseeing. opportunity, shewouldinterviewpeopletolearntheirtakeonlife,whiletaking a realinterestinwhatwasgoingon. friends —and,ofcourse,theracing.ThoseclassicsarewonderfulandJantook we enjoyedthefestivitiesofClassicYachtRegatta.Lotsfun,parties, and Camillaonboard,watchedwhiletheyenjoyedthebeach. where weanchoredrightnexttothe246-footyacht orchids, flamboyantandsomanyothertropicalflowersontheirownturf. was quitefamiliarwiththem.Shethrilledtobeableseebougainvillea, Having spentmuchofherliferaisingkidsandplants,especiallyflowers,she was acruisingnewbieandwantedtoseeitalldoall,onthefirstday. it stops. When itStops Bruce Parnhamhasbeencruisingfor12 years,hascircumnavigatedandis Take alessonhere.Whenhavingsomeone onboard,getcontactinforma- An autopsywasperformedwhichdetermined thatthecauseofdeathwas This beganaweekoflotsquestions.Ourpassportsandtheship’spapers The Frenchpolicewerethoroughandefficient.TheyinterviewedPatme When theyhadnotcalledbackacoupleofhourslater,PatandIreluctantly I grabbedalargespotlightandlookedinthedirectionoflastsounds. When Iwentbacktothecockpit,asplashwasheard.Jansoonswam We haddinnertogetherandthensettledintowatchamovie.Janseen We hadspentmuchofFridayinFortdeFrance,checkingoutthestores,find- When wearrivedatMartinique,Ihadanothercrewmemberjoiningus.Pat Jan seemedveryhappytobemeetingtheothercruisersalongwayand We didGuadeloupeandtheSaints,wentontoDominica,whereJan Jan hadalwaysdreamedofbeingareporterortravelwriter,soatevery Slowly wemovedalongtheislandchainbeforegoingeasttoAntigua,where We visitedSt.Barths,Statia,KittsandNevisbeforemovingontoMontserrat, Jan BerkeyjoinedmeinSt.Martinforaleisurelysaildowntheislands.She One oftheworstsoundsyouwilleverhearissoundswimming,when Swimming, wanted toseeitallanddo She wasacruisingnewbieand WHAT’S ONMYMIND by BruceParnham S/VRPhurst. Leander , with Prince Charles , withPrinceCharles AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49

Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. are the fastest growing charter company, We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW VACANCIES! email: [email protected] or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 +784 457 3407 Tel. St Vincent Tel. We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. for crew, are looking We couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. prefer We The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address:

, National theme park. Treasure Island (pronounced WID- Whydah The New York Times was, in fact, built as a : “Happily, the panel seems Whydah is now on public display at magazine, opened at the and Arts and Exhibitions and Arts and Exhibitions should not have come division Whydah Whydah Whydah Wall Street Journal National Geographic National Geographic The Black Ship: the quest to recover an English pirate by Norman Faria in which pirates came ashore to bury their treasure. Older in which pirates came ashore (by Barry Clifford and Paul Perry, Headline Press, 1999) and (by Barry Clifford and Paul Perry, Headline Press, 1999) WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S wreck discoverers and their business partners objected to these pro- wreck discoverers and their business partners objected website (www.nationalgeographic.com/whydah/main.html), Quintor had crew, including black pirate Hendrick Quintor, a former sailor turned Should Portray Them Portray Should Treasure Island artifacts sponsored by Whydah Black Pirates and How We and How Pirates Black The A selection of the artifacts recovered from the The name of the wrecked three-masted ship was the The name of the wrecked three-masted ship was the wanted to set up a The eventual owners of the wreck and recovered artifacts There have been attempts to revise history by painting pirates as humane with There have been attempts to revise history by painting Let us be frank. Despite Hollywood’s glamorization of them and Let us be frank. Despite Hollywood’s Unlike the relatively straightforward task undertaken in recent times of highlight- Unlike the relatively straightforward A little known fact is that in the later half of the “Golden Age of Piracy” (from 1650 the later half of the “Golden Age of Piracy” (from 1650 A little known fact is that in When most people hear of pirates, they think of their activities in the 17th and pirates, they think of their activities in the 17th and When most people hear of Out of the debate and discussion about the In a way, sections of the African-American community had valid criticisms about They were correct in arguing that such derogatory and insulting references need to ship and its lost treasure pirates. for which I am grateful for some of my information on “Whydah Pirate Complex”, first in Boston and then in Tampa, Florida. They met with “Whydah Pirate Complex”, first in Boston and then in is African-American and a stiff opposition from, among others, Byron Rushing who which resulted in no theme Massachusetts State Representative. This opposition, portray black men as park being set up in those cities, argued that to insensitively erode the ongoing campaigns pirates and slaves in a commercial “side show” would to portray African-Americans in a positive light. The traditional liberal-democratic tests. Their case appeared convincing. They took the existed and this needed to position that it was a historical fact that African pirates black pirates lived alongside be told. Indeed, the organizers contended, the fact that setting should be highlighted. whites in apparent equality in a relatively democratic July 6th, 2008), points to excavations of the wreck of a 100-foot pirate ship found July 6th, 2008), points to excavations of the wreck of had sunk in a ferocious storm in 1984 off the coast of Cape Cod, Massachusetts. It in 1717. a third of the approximately da). As was true for the pirate population overall, about descent. One of the two men 150-man crew were people of colour, mainly of African ship was John Julian, an who escaped the wrath of the storm that sank the Amerindian from what is today Belize. Sam Bellamy on its way back slave ship in London in 1715. It was captured by pirate “Haven’t the wealthy and pow- to Africa after discharging a cargo of slaves at Cuba. Tampa protester asked, as erful profited enough from the bestiality of slavery?” one recorded in the interesting book on Cape Cod (http://whydah. the Expedition Whydah Sea Lab & Learning Center a traveling exhibition of com). “Real Pirates: The Untold Story of the Whydah”, Whydah on May 31st and Franklin Institute Science Museum in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, appeared at the Cincinnati will run throughout this summer. Last year the show was properly explained, the (Ohio) Museum Center. To make sure that slavery’s role organizers of the exhibition, their own brand of democracy. For example, an article by William J. Broad, their own brand of democracy. For example, an ( “Archaeologists Revise Portrait of Buccaneers as Monsters” author Robert Louis Stevenson’s storytelling license, pirates were in general ruthless author Robert Louis Stevenson’s storytelling license, pirates off a captive’s hand with a murderers, rapists and other low types. They would chop cutlass to get the ring on his finger. They kept slaves. ing the role of black US cowboys in doing largely (a small number were common in doing largely (a small number were common ing the role of black US cowboys of the role of black pirates needs a more care- outlaws) honest work, the chronicling ful approach. to 1725), nearly a third of the estimated 5,000 pirates (sometimes known as buc- to 1725), nearly a third of the circum-Caribbean were of African descent. Some caneers) then operating in of “shock troops” that led initial charges onto the decks histories depict them as the served as cooks, ordinary sailors and even onboard treasure-laden vessels. Others slaves. musicians. Most were escaped folks recall Hollywood actors such as Errol Flynn starring as swashbuckling heroes such as Errol Flynn starring as swashbuckling heroes folks recall Hollywood actors in 1940s and 1950s movies. 18th Centuries right here in the Caribbean area. From our schoolbooks, many of us the Caribbean area. From our schoolbooks, many of 18th Centuries right here in as Henry Morgan and Blackbeard. We’ve read books might remember names such such as International, and the Cincinnati Museum Center, formed an advisory panel of aca- International, and the Cincinnati Museum Center, formed demics and scholars to review the content of the show. Stuart Ferguson wrote in the September 12th, 2007, edition of the to have provided more than just political insulation, and emphasizing the ties between Africa and America, both profitable and cruel, has lifted ‘Real Pirates’ from easy popularity and made it revelatory…” The exhibit features profiles of some of Whydah’s pirate when the Spanish ship he crewed on was captured. According to the the original Whydah Pirate Complex project as it was put forward at the time. The wreck and its history should nevertheless be permitted to fit into an authentic museum setting, properly researched and displayed, with the right emphases and context. The campaigns against stereotyping of black people in the mass media, including newspaper cartoons and movies, has been an important work area for the civil rights movement in the US. Educational campaigns to discredit and remove from public circulation repugnant cartoons and advertisements showing black people with, for example, oversized and grotesque physical features, eating watermelons and dancing, was totally just and correct. Tellingly, a native peoples’ group in the US, the American Indian Movement (AIM), also condemned the be exposed. Future ones need to be prevented from appearing. This needs to done so as not to influence impressionable minds. There should be no freedom of speech for those peddling misrepresentations that can stir up racial and other tensions and divide people of different races, colours and religions. This of course does not apply to law enforcement agencies and the mass media when they identify the race or colour of criminals or wanted persons in modern day societies. They have to. Geographic the reputation of being one of the toughest in the crew. The AIM had previously spoken out against stereotypical portrayal of “Indians” in movies and mass media. The Carib/Garifuna communities in Dominica and St. Vincent have also expressed disappointment about portrayal of indigenous peoples in the “Pirates of the Caribbean” movies. but a better understanding of and sensitivity towards the display of maritime artifacts, especially those linked to slavery. AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 a BoatName? What’s In ing thatdress;itwasherhappydress. angry oldlady. energy shoneout—longbeforeshebecameabitterand the localPalaisdeDanceandwhenallherpositive and rock’n’rolljiving,thedayswhenmymotherhit were popularinthedaysofBillHaleyandComets of netpetticoatsstiffenedwithasugarsolution.They with awidebelt.Underthedressoneworemultitude and afull,gatheredskirtthatwasdrawninatthewaist a centuryago. reminded ofmymotherinheryellow“shirt-waister”half with heryellowhullandallawningsup,Iwas trust mybrothers’judgment.Iwouldn’tbemuchhelpif because ofourfamily’sneeds.Inmycase,Idecidedto trying todecidewhetherornotweshouldgo“home” in paradise. what Ilovebest,potteringaroundonmy“new”boat ing foraverydifficultoldladyandhereIwasdoing family friendwerewonderfulinthewaytookoncar- moment: shewouldn’tseeoreventalktome. what todo,asmymotherreallydislikedmeatthat my ideabutIdidn’tgetanyfeedback.know Davies, That’s whenIthoughtofcallingmyboatthe I neversawmymothersadorevendisgruntledwear- A shirt-waisterwasadresswithbodicelikeshirt The firsttimeIsawtheCatalina30recentlybought, Many ofusaregoingtobeplacedintheposition Then mymotherbecameill.Mybrothersandanold by JuliaBartlett afterher.Iwroteandtoldoneofmybrothers WHAT’S ONMYMIND Netta swirling yellowskirt. smile tomyface,too,andanimageofmother’s And wheneverIusemyboat’snewnameitwillbringa boat againandithadboughtthesamesmiletoherface. name thatwouldcombineournamesisbeyondwords. would combinebothofournames,shesaid. Her secondnameisMaryandsomine.Thatwayit child. InsteadshesuggestedthatIcalleditthe name hadbeenasourceofunhappinessforheras didn’t wanttheboatcalled bought asecretlittlesmiletoherface.Hesaidthatshe knew exactlywhichdressIwastalkingaboutandithad ed meofherinthatshirt-waisterdress. that Iwasgoingtonameitafterherbecauseremind- the boatandaskedhimtoshowitMumtellher boat-after-her idea.Isentmyotherbrotheraphotoof thought Iwouldhaveanothergoatthenaming-the- think oftomakemypeacewithher. mother diedbecauseIhaddoneeverythingthatcould as Icould.wasn’tworriedaboutfeelingbadwhenmy every dayandabsorbingasmuchoftheirfrustrations plane atamoment’snoticeiftheysaidtheword. look afterher.TheyknewthatIwasreadytojumpona my motherwouldn’tevenseeme,letalonemehelp Later inthedayhehadshownherphotoof What itmeanstomethatmymotherthoughtofa When Iphonednext,mybrothertoldmethatMum My motherisvain.Ihaveinheritedthatviceandso I wasfeelingprettyuseless,althoughphoning Netta Davies becauseher Marietta

. LOULOUNE AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 to Cuba Guadeloupe TRANSCARAIBES 2009

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A ii bwoods@v Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic i rr Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean K Admiralty Bay, Bequia Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) MARINE PLYM EU-VAT (14%) importation (14%) EU-VAT aa Bequia, St. Vincent Bequ www.midatlanticyachtservices.com A Providing all vital servicesProviding to MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC C Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 E car Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 [email protected] & Shoreline Mini-Market YACHT SERVICES YACHT C INISHING PRODUC INISHING A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 +351 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX TEAKT Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR PORTHOLE RESTAURANT

Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144

FINISHING PRODUCTS PRODUCTS FINISHING F

AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 # F Saturday byappointment O L N A S G Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U S Didier andMaria M A W B I L N E D S W C I A N R D T E C P A D R F T E P D F + (599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 340-774-3175 Office •340-513-3147Cell 340-774-3175 Office Independent Boatyard, St. Thomas, VI St.Thomas, Independent Boatyard, www.maritimeyachtsales.com E-mail: [email protected] Packages Pick–upcall: Int. 001-3057042314 St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress and deliver doorto continuedonnextpage AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 St Lucia, Grenada St Thomas, St Maarten, St www.IslandWaterWorld.com [email protected] Marine Distributors P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 P: 599-544-5310 F:

Book it now: THIS COULD BE YOUR MARKET PLACE AD or contact your local island agent [email protected] Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 [email protected] Lying ashoreGrenada£14.5K equipped, readytocruise. extensively upgraded,fully sic, longkeeled,solidlybuilt, NICHOLSON 32 [email protected] US$125,000 OBOMoreinfoE-mail Located WindwardIslands. staterooms, 2headsw/shwr. ing. 200glswater,fuel,2 equipped forliveaboardcruis- designed cutter1983Fully PANOCEANIC 43 mad.com Tel(473)415-1026 Details onwww.petetheno- ed bluewatercruiserUS$75K CREALOCK 34 PACIFIC SEACRAFT web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2 follow heradventurenowat Sale Summer2008.Youcan Admiral 38Catamaran.For FAMOUS POTATOES [email protected] 145,000 EurosE-mail good sails,lyinginMartinique or refitNov.‘07,4dblcabins, Perkins 106hpInterior/exteri- 56ft MIKADOKETCH [email protected] Tel: (784)458-8829E-mail: Info onwww.artandsea.com. located PalmIsland,SVG. upgrades, readytosail, dition, plentyofnew 1986 Beneteau51 phone +596696907429. e-mail [email protected] more infoandpicturesplease for afastsale.LyingStLucia.For US$199,000 toUS$169,000ONO cruiser. Pricereducedfrom excellent liveaboardand engine, verywellequipped, KETCH URGENT SALE-VENUS46,1984 uaa aie uaa 21 9 38 Curaçao 5 USA Martinique 44 48 Martinique Curaçao Marine 31 49 Guadeloupe Mustique Corea's FoodStoreMustique 7 Cooper Marine Martinique 2 Carene Shop Tortola 39 Carenantilles SintMaarten 50 Grenada 47 Caraibe Yachts Caraibe Greement 49 Camper &Nicholsons Bequia Carriacou Tortola BVI YachtSales Budget Marine Trinidad 13 Bogles RoundHouse 41 46 PetiteMartinique Boat ShedBrokers 33 Bequia Marina St.Vincent Bay IslandYachts UnionIsland Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock UK Anchorage YachtClub Admiral YachtInsurance DETSR OAIN PG LOCATION ADVERTISER BOATS FORSALE fiberglass, gc, new fiberglass, gc,new highly regard- Plasticclas- Ted Brewer Ted Brewer Nicecon- 2005 1975 [email protected] Tel (868)683-9135E-mail CAT –LOAFER 56’ DAYCHARTERSAILING Tel 005995815603. [email protected] For moreinfoE-mail Lying St.Maarten.US$70K. with ahumblepricetag! interior.Unique littleyacht ed/varnished mahogany years old!Cozycreampaint- anchors. Allgearlessthan2 6mm anchorchain,3 New monitorwindvane,SS hull -mahoganyonpine. Smaalders.Traditional carvel ning classicdesignbyMark CUTTER,2006 26’ WOODENGAFF [email protected] Tel: (767)275-2851 ready forwork. overhauled, fuelefficientand Volvo TA-MD40’s,Newparts,just SANTA CRUZ28,1980 170.000 £.Tel(767)4404403. [email protected] come seetheboatE-mail: send youaprivateaircraftto Guadeloupe. Callandwe’ll tery bank.Mustseein Wind generator+largebat- Low timeYanmar.Solar+ dition, 4doublecabin/2bath. sells upgradedexcellentcon- LAGOON 380-2003 E-mail [email protected] Tel (758)452-8531 259.000, 1994 Lagoon47,4cabin,US 460.000 Euros, 2000 Catana471,4cabin, US 199.000, 2001 Beneteau50,3cabin, US 255.000, 2000 Dehler41CR,3cabin, St.Lucia dutypaid, sets racingsails,US61.000 1975 GermanFrers39ft,2 US 94.000, 2002 Oceanis36,2cabin, 39.000, St.Luciadutypaid, 1981 CapeDory30,US boats forsale: St.Lucia dutypaid.Other 2 setsracingsails,US61.000 1975 GERMANFRERS39FT Anawardwin- # 40passenger DETSR LOCATIONPG ADVERTISER US$ 39,700 US$ 39,700 PMrn S.Vnet 47 46 St.Vincent 14 32 St.Croix 32/46 56 St.Lucia 43 Grenada SintMaarten 41 KP Marine 29 Jones Maritime St.Vincent UK 25 45 Johnson Hardware 15 Bequia Island WaterWorld Guadeloupe Grenada Island Dreams Grenada Iolaire Enterprises 40 6 St.Kitts Gourmet Food Grenadines Sails Grenada Marine 29 Jamaica 3 Fred Marine 9 USA Fortress Marine Food Fair Grenada Errol FlynnMarina Tortola Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Doyle's Guides 30 Doyle OffshoreSails Dopco Travel Dockwise YachtTransportSarl Martinique Owner Owner E-mail Twin Twin ,

E-mail: [email protected] US 139,000 speed 30mph,135hours, speed 55mph,cruising 2x Verado250hp,max floating- andfishinggear, seats for12,incl.snorkeling-, custom madebenches, console withopenbow, in St.Maarten.Opencenter stored onboatlift,located like new,only6monthused, DONZI 32ZF,DEC.2007 [email protected] Game Fishing!$65,000USD Rods, Reels,etc.EverythingBig Tournament QualityPenn painted 7/2007.Includes itaisland.com Hauledand tos: www.discovermargar- Radar Installation-Info/pho- watt transduceris Chartplotter/Fishfinder, 600 Raymarine C80GPS/ to Grenada.Electronics: Range: PuertoLaCruz,Ve. Fuel: 165gallons hours Cruising:22/24knots F/W/C. Engines250engine MercCruiser 265H.P./5.3liter is Stainless.Motors:22002 Ready ToFish!Allhardware Ve. TournamentRigged, Margarita, MargaritaIsland, anywhere! Marina bridge. CleanestBertram Rebuilt fromstringersto Immaculate Boat!! Bertram SportFish28.5 [email protected] Tel 473-440-3678/407-1147 Kayaking Businessforsale One SailBoat, Two PowerCatamarans, ADVERTISERS INDEX CLASSIFIEDS ready for ready for #

ADVERTISER LOCATION PG [email protected] more... US$5,000OBO. propane cookerandmuch wind-vane self-steering, liferaft, 40hpBMCdiesel, Colon, Panama.GPS,EPIRB, junk riggedschoonerin 32' TAHITIANASTEELHULL, (246) 230-3515 Barbados (246)258-1052/ $100,000 USorBestOffer Gen. Set,MANYextras. (2) 671DetroitDieselEngines 42' POSTSPORTSFISH [email protected] Phone 7844888414E-mail: On drydockatOttleyHall Engines needwork. Must Sell.OffersAccepted. VITECH 49TSSPORTCRUISER GRENADA MASTS -TURBULENCE (473) 4091430 ble. Contact:(473)4442220 hours. EC.$25,000.negotia- Excellent condition/low propeller andcontrols. complete withstainlesssteel 2003 Mercury250hpE.F.I. E-mail [email protected] Tel (758)452-8531 upgrade) askfordetails (has beenchangedfor spreaders, lights,winches deck stepped,boom, SELDEN RIG [email protected] Tel (868)683-9135E-mail CATAMARAN HULLS 2 X54FTFIBERGLASS ANCE SALE: CHARTER COMPANYCLEAR- [email protected] (868) 683-9135E-mail DIESEL 36HP YANMAROUTBOARD E-mail [email protected] Tel (473)439-4495/415-8271 suitable formonohull. spreader sets/steps 17m inmastfurler/2 e evcs atnqe 24 37 Martinique Guadeloupe 19 20 38 11 10 18 Curaçao Aruba Sea Services Grenada Sea andSail Martinique PSV Santa BarbaraResorts Tortola 48 Renaissance Marina Prickly BayMarina 47 22 38 Ponton duBakoua 45 Trinidad Petit St.Vincent Perkins Engines 16 Grenada Peake YachtBrokerage Tortola Bequia Northern LightsGenerators Bequia Navimca Venezuela Grenada 40 McIntyre Bros.Ltd 33 Maranne's IceCream St.Thomas Lulley's Tackle LIAT Caribbean St.Vincent 26 Le PhareBleu Lagoonieville Books Lagoon MarinaHotel 55 MISC. FORSALE TrinidadTel OnenewSelden forVINDÖ35, Seldenmast

Tel (784)4550969 Bequia life. 750,000US, relax&enjoy 320,000US, Moonhole 1.600,000US, Friendship 1,750,000US LowerBay 900,000US, SpringVilla 1,890,000US, AdmiraltyBay Apartments Business 2,000,000US, TheVillage sic Belmontvillain1acre BEQUIA PROPERTIES www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term fenced withmature stairs! 12,558sqftofland, dry, levelwithroad-no bedroom, fullkitchen,laun- master bedrooms,1guest 100 yardsfrombeach.2 Lovely 1250sqft.cottage, FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA [email protected] couple orfamilyE-mail ply Co.forsalesuit chartering) Boatbasedsup- and stillearnaliving!(not Caribbean, liveonaboat out, “retire”tothe recession &inflation?Chill – increasedfuelcosts FED UPWITHRISINGMORTGAGES [email protected] after 6pm.E-mail owner. Call(784)4564963 Serious buyersonly.Saleby Point, HouseandLand. BEQUIA www.grenadinevillas.com [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] is agreatopportunity! on St.Maartenforsale.This DAY CHARTERBUSINESS [email protected] to offers.LocatedBVI. engine $21,500,veryopen AB VSTRIBforsale,no BRAND NEW,UNUSED24’ E-mail: [email protected] next season.US15,000 and youarereadyforthe day charterinSt.Maarten ness anddirectorlicensefor have income?Buyourbusi- the Caribbean,youliketo You ownaboat,youlivein BUSINESS FORSALE www.crackajacksailing.net Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD Tel (758)452-8531 E-mail [email protected] complete list and lotsmore-askfor windlass, dieselstove,sails, winches, engineparts, with riggingfor40footer, PROPERTY FORSALE , LowerBay,Bells SERVICES # ADVERTISER LOCATION PG

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www.hazeyview.com ficent vistas,solitude. www.watercraftwatermaker.com [email protected] water, Bequia.E-mail cal/cosmetic work,Inthe trimaran. Rigging/mechani- SPECIALIST INDEPENDENT REFIT [email protected] tion Tel(473)439-4495E-mail Turbulence SailsPricklyBayloca- experience neededfor RIGGING TECHNICIAN [email protected] skills. Pleaseemailresumeto keting andgraphicdesign office/administrator withmar- looking forcomputerliterate BVI SAILINGCHARTERCOMPANY [email protected] greencard orcitizenshipE-mail to beach.USVI,needsUSVisa, help. Beautifulrainforest,1mile space etc.intradeforstart-up lery orworkshopandsales skills aplus.Partnershipingal- artist withwood/stonebuilding retired?) craftsman/womanor progress. Suitenergetic(early shops, pottery,cottagesin COLONY DEVELOP SMALLARTISTS' OPPORTUNITY TOHELP Check our prices at Check ourpricesat and PuertoLaCruz,Venezuela. service availableatCuracao tems, membranes,sparesand WATERMAKERS Orders aredeliveredFREE [email protected] 3527/433-3008 E-mail place orderTel(784)457- & flax,buttercrescents.To tigrain, bananabread,herbs every day!Wholewheat,mul- BREADS BEQUIA HOMEMADE [email protected] (58) 416-3824187E-mail deliveries. TelCrisRobinson trical problemsandyacht INSURANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ. [email protected] Ideal coupleorfamily.E-mail Opportunity forexpansion. established clientele. cern withboat/s,stock, S.E. Caribbean.Goingcon- BOAT BASEDSUPPLYCO. Gooding (604)466-9953 (784) 455-7580orWillis short term.WandaLeslieTel trees, beautifulview,long/ to Mt.Pleasant,private,fruit nished, hotwater,onroad 2 BEQUIA HOUSEFORRENT Park, mountains, magni- Park, mountains,magni- EXPERIENCE THE COMPLETEAFRICA In PLCTel(58)416-3824187

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AUGUST 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55

ELLEN SANPERE ...Info & Updates ...Info & we welcome new advertisers Compass A report from the Montserrat Volcano Observatory A report from the Montserrat Volcano Observatory For more information visit www.mvo.ms. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Seismic Activity in Montserrat Seismic Activity in seis- reported a significant increase Scientists have The Montserrat Volcano Observatory is a safe distance from the crater and provides an excellent view Boatshed international yacht brokers of the BVI, page 50; Trintrac Honda sales and service of Trinidad, page 50; and Fortress Woodworking, Marc One Marine of Trinidad and Pro Marine of Trinidad, in the Caribbean Compass Market Place, pages 51 through 53. Good to have you with us! (www.mvo.ms) says, ” The amount and types of (www.mvo.ms) says, ” The amount and types of activity seen during the week [of July 18th to 25th] are probably not caused only by instability of the lava dome. It is very likely that there is in increase in pressure beneath the volcano and possibly a fresh injection of magma, which may lead to a resump- tion of dome growth. Even if lava extrusion does not restart, the dome is still a very large mass of very hot material which is capable of collapsing or exploding at any time.” mic activity on Montserrat. After a series of earth- Montserrat. After a series mic activity on vented gas Soufriere Hills volcano quakes, the island’s a series of blasts released and steam in late July and lava dome. One of the ash from inside a hardened 2.5 kilometres (8,000 feet) ash columns rose to about from the east pushed above sea level. Wind blowing (900-meter) high most of the ash from the 3,000-foot pyroclastic flows were volcano over open water. Small also reported. — Continued from page — Continued Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited