DOCSLIB.ORG

Hand4dyeing Yarn

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Hand4dyeing Yarn HAND-DYEING YARN: A “KOOL” EXPERIENCE BY JANET REHFELDT NOW THAT SCHOOL’S OUT FOR THE SUMMER, HAVE SOME FUN TIME WITH THE KIDS (aND SPARK THEIR CREATIVITy) BY HANd-dYEING A VARIETY OF COLORFUL YARNS USING A FAVORITE FRUIT DRINK MIX! TM USING Kool-Aid to cre- ate one-of-a-kind hand-dyed yarns can be a fun and safe proj- ect your family can do together. Not only are these non- toxic food-grade dyes, but they are also environmentally friendly and easy to use, come in some great colors and what’s not to love about those fruity Kool-Aid aromas? Although the most used meth- od for this type of dyeing is to use your microwave to set the colors, try planning a dyeing session dur- ing a backyard family get-together, picnic or camping trip, and take advantage of the sun’s heat as a natural way to set the dye. In addition to the non- toxic and environmentally friendly factors, another great thing about using these dyes is the experimentation factor and playing with the different ways of dyeing with Kool-Aid as well as combining flavors or colors to FROM CROCHET! MAGAZINE, JULY 2009, VOL. 22, NO. 4, COPYRIGHT © 2009 CROCHET! MAGAZINE create unique tones and effects. microwave. So grab some yarn and Next, it’s a good idea to pro- Kool-Aid is considered part let’s get to dyeing! tect your hands by using rubber, of the acid dye family. Acid dyes latex or plastic gloves. Trust me on MATERIALS NEEDED work best for protein fibers and this, food coloring dyes really work need heat to set the color. Protein Unsweetened Kool-Aid pack- on skin, so unless you want your fibers include wool, silk and other ets: Minimum of 1 packet per friends, co-workers and neighbors animal fibers such as angora, cash- ounce of yarn (Do not use sugar- knowing you’ve been playing with mere and mohair. Acid dyes also free Kool-Aid packets.) Kool-Aid, use gloves. Note: Make work well with nylon because the Distilled white vinegar sure you are not allergic to latex, plas- chemical structure of nylon some- Table or cooking salt (optional) tic or rubber before use. what resembles that of wool. Water PREPPING YOUR YARN You will not get good results Wool yarn using food-grade dyes with other Yarn note: See reference to pro- Your yarn needs to be in hanks synthetic fibers, such as acrylic or tein fibers. for the dye to saturate all the polyester, or plant fibers including Glass measuring cup with ca- strands. If you are using skeins, cotton, rayon, hemp or linen. The pacity of 2 or more cups you need to wind the yarn into colors will not permanently at- ½- to pint-size jars for mixing hanks using a yarn swift or a high- tach to cotton or other plant fibers. multiple colors back chair. For larger hanks, use They wash out, leaving at most Sponge brushes and/or squeeze two chairs spaced apart and wrap a pale stain—enough to perhaps bottles (You can find squeeze the yarn around both chair backs. ruin your project, but not enhance bottles in cake decorating depart- If you know a spinner, borrowing or decorate it. ments of craft stores.) a niddy-noddy is ideal for wind- The yarn you choose may be Microwave-safe plastic wrap ing hanks. thick or thin, natural or dyed. If Microwave-safe bowl or dish Loosely tie the yarn in four to using a previously dyed yarn, se- Rubber, latex or plastic gloves six places using a light-colored lect a fairly light shade so that the Plastic spoons for mixing colors colorfast crochet cotton or yarn. Kool-Aid color shows up. Over- Long-handled plastic or A figure-8 tie works best (see Pho- dyes often result in a more subtle wooden spoon to 1 on next page). Working one side of the hank, split the strands or heather-colored effect. A light GETTING STARTED pink yarn in a deep blue dye bath somewhat in half. Working from Covering your work area with will result in a purple that would the middle of your split, slip one plastic, regardless of whether you be completely different from natu- end of the tie under the yarn, then are working in the kitchen or on ral white yarn dyed with a straight bring it over the top of that section a picnic table, will eliminate un- purple color. and back to the middle. Now take wanted stains. Large, garden-size Make sure you dye enough the tie under the other half of the garbage bags or painter’s plastic yarn to complete your project since split, over the top and back to the sheeting or tarps are great for pro- it is fairly difficult to duplicate the middle. Make a knot, keeping the tecting your work surface. If using results exactly. ties loose so the dye reaches under large garbage bags, make sure they There are several methods of the ties to the yarn strands. Repeat, overlap so no water or dye solution Kool-Aid dyeing. The first meth- adding ties around the hank. leaks underneath. od we’ll cover will be dyeing in the FROM CROCHET! MAGAZINE, JULY 2009, VOL. 22, NO. 4, COPYRIGHT © 2009 CROCHET! MAGAZINE Hand-dYEING YARN: A “KOOL” EXPERIENCE have the choice of working with making it appear that the dye is a dye bath or sprinkling the dry exhausted, you still need to heat- powdered drink mix onto the yarn. set the dye. DYEING WITH ONLY ONE COLOR Mixing your dye bath: Pour PHOTO 1 enough warm water to cover the yarn into a microwavable bowl or Soak the yarn in 1 part vinegar dish (about ¾ cup per ounce of yarn). Add the packets of Kool- to 4 parts warm water for about PHOTO 3 20 minutes (see Photo 2). I use just Aid, about 2 tablespoons of enough water to cover and saturate vinegar and 1 tablespoon of table the yarn. Some people like to use or cooking salt, mixing with a I cover the dish with micro- more vinegar, but I find this ratio wooden or plastic spoon until the wavable plastic wrap, cutting a works well. It really isn’t rocket sci- Kool-Aid is dissolved. The vinegar 1-inch slit in the plastic wrap to ence; you don’t even have to mea- raises the acidity for better color vent. This is not necessary, but I sure, just pour a good amount of retention, while the salt acts as a find it allows more steam to form vinegar into your warm water. And leveler, helping the dye to absorb and sets the dye better. Place the the timing doesn’t have to be exact. more evenly into the yarn. dish into the microwave and, using I’ve had yarn soaking as little as 10 For good saturation, you will high power, zap the yarn for two minutes and as long as overnight. need at least one packet of Kool- minutes. Allow the yarn to rest The only thing you need to be Aid for each ounce of yarn. If you for two minutes. Repeat this two picky about is that your vinegar is want more vibrant colors, use more more times for a total of six cook- distilled white vinegar. packets. If you want lighter colors, ing minutes, always allowing the use fewer packets. yarn to rest between microwaving Squeeze the excess water from times. Note: Time is based on stan- your yarn by folding and running dard 1,000–1,100 cooking watts. your hand down the hank. Do not For higher-powered microwaves, use wring or twist the hank. 70–80 percent power. For low-watt- Making sure you’ve donned age microwaves you may need up to your gloves, add the yarn to the eight minutes cooking time. PHOTO 2 dye bath and quickly work the Allow the yarn to cool until color into the yarn by gently mov- the water is room temperature. Fill ing and lifting the yarn strands the sink with just enough water While your yarn is soaking, it’s for even saturation. You may use to cover the yarn. Important: Be the perfect time to prepare your your hands or a wooden or plastic sure the water in the sink is the same dye mixture(s). The great thing spoon (see Photo 3). Even though temperature as the yarn. The water about Kool-Aid dyeing is that, the color is absorbed rather quickly temperature is very important; you do regardless of whether you are us- and the water may turn clear (or not want to shock the yarn. Add the ing just one or multiple colors, you cloudy if using lemonade flavors), yarn and gently swish it in the wa- FROM CROCHET! MAGAZINE, JULY 2009, VOL. 22, NO. 4, COPYRIGHT © 2009 CROCHET! MAGAZINE ter. Do not rub or agitate the yarn the Kool-Aid onto the wool and lap each section of plastic wrap or you will felt it. work it in with a sponge brush, along the long edges so dye doesn’t Empty the sink; refill it with or work the powder into the wool leak underneath. water and a very small amount of with your gloved hands (see Photo After prepping your yarn, dishwashing soap. Gently swish 4). You may have to carefully turn place the hank on the plastic the yarn to get it soapy. Refill the the yarn over to make sure all the wrap, opening it up and separat- sink and, being careful not to rub strands on the bottom of the hank ing the yarn to make it easier to or agitate the yarn, rinse until are saturated with dye.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • India's Textile and Apparel Industry
    Staff Research Study 27 Office of Industries U.S. International Trade Commission India’s Textile and Apparel Industry: Growth Potential and Trade and Investment Opportunities March 2001 Publication 3401 The views expressed in this staff study are those of the Office of Industries, U.S. International Trade Commission. They are not necessarily the views of the U.S. International Trade Commission as a whole or any individual commissioner. U.S. International Trade Commission Vern Simpson Director, Office of Industries This report was principally prepared by Sundar A. Shetty Textiles and Apparel Branch Energy, Chemicals, and Textiles Division Address all communications to Secretary to the Commission United States International Trade Commission Washington, DC 20436 TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Executive Summary . v Chapter 1. Introduction . 1-1 Purpose of study . 1-1 Data and scope . 1-1 Organization of study . 1-2 Overview of India’s economy . 1-2 Chapter 2. Structure of the textile and apparel industry . 2-1 Fiber production . 2-1 Textile sector . 2-1 Yarn production . 2-4 Fabric production . 2-4 Dyeing and finishing . 2-5 Apparel sector . 2-5 Structural problems . 2-5 Textile machinery . 2-7 Chapter 3. Government trade and nontrade policies . 3-1 Trade policies . 3-1 Tariff barriers . 3-1 Nontariff barriers . 3-3 Import licensing . 3-3 Customs procedures . 3-5 Marking, labeling, and packaging requirements . 3-5 Export-Import policy . 3-5 Duty entitlement passbook scheme . 3-5 Export promotion capital goods scheme . 3-5 Pre- and post-shipment financing . 3-6 Export processing and special economic zones . 3-6 Nontrade policies .
    [Show full text]
  • NRDC's 10 Best Practices for Textile Mills to Save Money and Reduce
    NRDC’s 10 Best PRACTICES FOR TEXTILE MILLS TO SAVE MONEY AND REDUCE POLLUTION NRDC Authors: Linda Greer, Susan Keane, Cindy Lin, James Meinert A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR RESPONSIBLE SOURCING Version 2.0 www.nrdc.org/cleanbydesign July 2013 Acknowledgments The authors are grateful to the Richard and Rhoda Goldman Fund and to the Pisces Foundation for financial support of this work. We thank the apparel retailers and brands that partnered with NRDC on the Responsible Sourcing Initiative and provided assistance, support, and advice to our work. About NRDC NRDC (Natural Resources Defense Council) is a national nonprofit environmental organization with more than 1.4 million members and online activists. Since 1970, our lawyers, scientists, and other environmental specialists have worked to protect the world’s natural resources, public health, and the environment. NRDC has offices in New York City, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago, Montana, and Beijing. Visit us at www.nrdc.org. NRDC’s policy publications aim to inform and influence solutions to the world’s most pressing environmental and public health issues. For additional policy content, visit our online policy portal at www.nrdc.org/policy. NRDC Director of Communications: Edwin Chen NRDC Deputy Director of Communications: Lisa Goffredi NRDC Policy Publications Director: Alex Kennaugh Design and Production: www.suerossi.com © Natural Resources Defense Council 2013 TABLE OF CONTENTS Executive Summary ........................................................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Glossary of Jewellery Making and Beading Terms
    Glossary of Jewellery Making and Beading Terms A jewellery glossary of beading terms and jewellery making terminology combining clear images with easy to understand dictionary like definitions. This bead glossary also provides links to more in depth content and bead resources. It can be used as a beading A to Z reference guide to dip into as needed, or as a beading and jewellery glossary for beginners to help broaden beading and jewellery making knowledge. It is particularly effective when used alongside our Beading Guides, Histories, Theories and Tutorials, or in conjunction with our Gemstones & Minerals Glossary and Venetian Glass Making Glossary. A ABALONE These edible sea creatures are members of a large class of molluscs that have one piece shells with an iridescent interior. These shells have a low and open spiral structure, and are characterized by several open respiratory pores in a row near the shell’s outer edge. The thick inner layer of the shell is composed of a dichroic substance called nacre or mother-of-pearl, which in many species is highly iridescent, giving rise to a range of strong and changeable colors, making it ideal for jewellery and other decorative objects. Iridescent nacre varies in colour from silvery white, to pink, red and green- red, through to deep blues, greens, and purples. Read more in our Gemstones & Minerals Glossary. Above are examples of Paua and Red Abalone. ACCENT BEAD Similar in purpose to a Focal Bead, this is a bead that forms the focus for a piece of jewellery, but on this occasion rather then through its size, it is usually through contrast.
    [Show full text]
  • Design and Development of Manual Hank Reeling Machine Fitsum Etefa*
    ISSN Online: 2641-760X Symbiosis www.symbiosisonlinepublishing.com Research Article International Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering Open Access Design and Development of Manual Hank Reeling Machine Fitsum Etefa* Msc, Leather Engineering Department, Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology iTEX), Bahir Dar University, Ethiopia Received: May 05, 2019; Accepted: May 15, 2019; Published: May 21, 2019 *Corresponding author: Fitsum Etefa, Msc, Leather Engineering Department, Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology (EiTEX), Bahir Dar University, Ethiopia; E-mail: [email protected] Abstract skein of stranded cotton as being 8.25 yards (7.54 m), of tapestry In today’s textile product processing, customers are demanding woolof a hank as being (either 10 yardsby weight (9.1 m),or by and length). crewel One wool source as being identifies 33 yards a lower prices, the best quality product and service. An effective cost (30 m) [1-2]. reduction and higher productivity with short processing time is the main objective for textile manufacturer to be a strong competitor In yarns for handcrafts such as knitting or crochet, hanks are 50 grams. Depending on the thickness of the strand as well as by having high market share with profitability and to compete including customers. thenot ainherent fixed length density but ofare the sold material, in units hanksby weight, can mostrange commonly widely in successfully in the world market by keeping benefits of stoke holders Now a day there is different manual and automatic hank reeling yardage per 50 gram unit; for example, 440 yards for a lace weight machine. Hank reeling machine used to reel cone yarn to hank yarn mohair, to 60 yards for a chunky weight cotton.
    [Show full text]
  • Chapter 1 Get Set!
    05_139875 ch01.qxp 8/31/07 7:41 PM Page 3 ChapterChapter 1 get set! ow that you have this book, you’re ready to learn how to knit, but do you have everything else Nyou need to start knitting? You need yarn, needles, and a few little tools to begin with. After you’ve been knitting for a while, you’ll naturally accumulate more yarn——LOTS more yarn, if you love knitting—— plus more needles and accessories, so don’t buy too much at first. What kind of yarn should you get? And what size and type of needles do you want? This chapter tells you all you need to know to make the right choices. it’s all about yarn One of the most fun parts of knitting is choosing yarn. You may feel overwhelmed when you set out to buy yarn for your first project. Knitting yarns come in so many fibers, weights, textures, and colors that it can be confusing. Take a deep breath, read on, and you’ll get a better idea of what to look for. natural fibers Natural fibers come from animals and plants. Wool, alpaca, mohair, cashmere, and angora are spun from animal fibers, and they’re really warm to wear——and fun to knit with. Certain wools, like Shetland wool, can be scratchy; some, like merino, are nice and soft. Be sure to hold a ball of yarn against your skin to see if you would want to wear something made out of it. It would be a bummer to spend weeks knitting a scarf that is too itchy to wear.
    [Show full text]
  • Hank Dyeing a Bespoke Way of Colouring Yarn We Spin, We Dye
    Hank Dyeing A bespoke way of colouring yarn We spin, We dye We’re Laxtons. Best known for our worsted spun and fancy yarns, we’ve been supplying yarn for woven apparel, hand knitting, interiors and more since 1907. Fast forward to 2020, we’re diversifying. In a bid to match our tailor- made approach to design with a bespoke dyeing capability, we’ve teamed up with the textile colour experts at Yorkshire-based Park Valley Dyers, to offer one of the most cutting- edge hank dyeing facilities in the UK. We now provide fully vertical spinning and dyeing of our own products as well as commission dyeing services for high value hanks of natural fibre yarn in wool, cashmere, silk and alpaca destined for premium knitwear, fashion, upholstery and carpets. Hank dyeing – and, equally important, hank drying Significantly more sophisticated than traditional hank dyeing, this specialist dyeing process not only allows us to achieve a softer yarn finish, it enables the yarn to retain its volume and bounce. Unlike the package or cone dyeing method which compresses the yarn, hank dyeing is designed for smaller batches and is ideal for enhancing the structural properties of thicker spun yarns. Dye and dry Reeled yarn is suspended under its own weight on perforated arms which rotate during the dye cycle to achieve completely level colour distribution. The yarn is never submerged in water, so the process is significantly more gentle on the fibre to give improved handle and bulk, achieving yarn character very similar to that obtained through fibre dyeing. The hank drying process is almost as critical as the dyeing itself, with most drying techniques over-drying the yarn, causing brittleness and fibre damage.
    [Show full text]
  • Yarns & Classification
    YARNS & CLASSIFICATION INTRODUCTION Yarn is “a generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. Yarns play an important role in the fabric manufacturing process since a majority of the textile materials are constructed with yarns. Yarns are also used for products such as sewing and embroidery thread, string, and rope. Yarns are produced in various sizes and textures, and also vary in other characteristics. Performance, end use, and fabric care are affected by these yarn characteristics. Fibre length is used to broadly divide yarns into: – Spun yarns (made from short, staple fibres) – Filament yarns (made from continuous filament fibres) Yarn processing methods for spun yarns are very different from those of filament yarns. Two important things in spinning of yarn that will later on affect the fineness and strength of the fabric woven. 1. Yarn twist : Yarns (especially spun yarns) are twisted to hold the fibres together. The number of twists per unit length is used to measure twist. Yarn twist can be broadly divided by number of twists: none or very low, low, average, and high twist. Some of the common uses for yarns with different twists are given below: – Filament yarns used for smooth fabrics have no or very low twist. – Yarns used for napping, bulky sweaters, and pile in towels have low twist. – Most spun yarns used for woven fabrics have average twist. – Crepe yarns used for plain and crepe weave fabrics have high twist. Yarn twist impacts the yarn's appearance, fineness, strength, and absorption.
    [Show full text]
  • Get to Know Silk! Silk Is Known As One of the Most Highly Prized and Sought After Fibers for the Last 5,000 Years
    Get to Know Silk! Silk is known as one of the most highly prized and sought after fibers for the last 5,000 years. Originally discovered in ancient China, silk was exclusively used for royalty, but desired by all. It wasn't until 300 AD that sericulture, or the production of silk, started spreading to Korea, Japan, and India. From there, the production and desire for silk products and fiber spread like wildfire. We have King James of England to thank for ordering silk to be brought over to the United States in 1603. Everyone was fighting over who produced the best silk until it was quickly learned that cotton and tobacco was a more profitably investment here in the United States. What is silk made from? Well, it is a matter of who makes silk. Silkworms are technically the silk moth in the pupa life cycle, scientifically known as Bombyx Mori. There is a variety of insects that can produce silk or silk like fibers, but have yet to be use for commercial purposes. Silk is one of the strongest fibers available. It is also highly durable, has a naturally reflective sheen, and absorbs dye well. Silk will be stronger the softer it is and does not like being stretched out. Types of Silk! Mulberry Silk - is the most common type of silk that is cultivated for commercial use. These silkworms are bred to produce fine white silk to make the dyeing process easier and more efficient. Tussah or Wild Silk - also known as Peace or Ahimsa Silk. These are cocoons that are found naturally in the wild once the silkworm is done with it.
    [Show full text]
  • I. 11. VI. VII. XN. YARN Numl3ering SYSTEM
    YARN NUMBEIUNG SYSTEM I. Cotton: Number of 840-yard 'lengths per pound 11. Decitex: Number of grams per 10,000 meters IrI. Denier: Number of grams per 9,000 meters IV. Dewsbuy : Number of.yard lengths per ounce v. Jute: Number of pounds per 14,400 yards VI. Linen: Number of 300-yard lengths per pound VII. Tex: Number of grams per kilometer XN. Woolen: No. of 256 yd lengths per lb XV. Worsted: No. of 560 yd lengths per lb YARN NUMl3ERING SYSTEM All manufactured products are made with a specific plan and design, and regardless of the type of product, they will be given a designation for size, length, width or weight. Automobile tires, shoes, electrical wire, carpets and wearing apparel are all marketed with some designation concerning size. Fabrics are constructed with a certain number of warp ends and filling picks per inch, a specified width during production and after finishing, and the yarns that go into the fabric must also have a specific designation. - This is called the "number" of a yarn, although there are times when the designation is referred to as yarn size or yam count. (The term "size" often refers to a protective coating for a warp yarn, and "count" is used in designating the number of yarns in a constructed fabric.) There are five yam-numbering systems used extensively in the textile industry today. These are: English or Cotton System Worsted System Metric System Tex System Denier System Other systems have been used in various places and some are still in use today, but the five listed above are the ones we will examine in this study.
    [Show full text]
  • 4-H Knitting Skills
    $3.50 4-H Knitting Skills 4-H 961 Reprinted November 2005 Contents Yarn........................................................................... 3 Buttonholes ......................................................... 19 Selecting Yarn ....................................................... 3 Crocheted Border or Finish ................................. 20 Reclaiming Yarn .................................................... 5 Yarn Buttons........................................................ 20 Tools and Supplies ................................................... 6 Four-Needle Knitting .......................................... 21 Knitting Needles.................................................... 6 Circular Needle Knitting ..................................... 21 Other Supplies ....................................................... 6 Knitting with Colors ............................................ 21 Terms and Abbreviations ........................................ 8 Body Measurements ............................................ 23 Techniques ................................................................ 8 Pattern Drafting ................................................... 23 Casting On ............................................................. 8 Combining Knitting with Fabric ......................... 26 The Knit Stitch .....................................................11 Garment Finishing................................................. 27 The Purl Stitch..................................................... 13 Seams .................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Master Yarn Chart Not to Be Reprinted
    Copyright Handwoven® magazine, F+W Media Inc., 2014. MASTER YARN CHART Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. This list includes all the yarns that have been used in Handwoven magazine projects since 2000. Numbers indicate yards per pound, meters per kilogram, and a range of setts—from wide as for lace weaves, medium as for plain weave, and close as for twills (no setts are given for yarns not suitable for use as warp). Use this chart to identify yarns and make appropriate substitutions for yarns that are no longer available. COTTON Size 60 sewing thread; 24,000 yd/lb 100% cotton (Gima); 4,240 yd/lb 5/2 pearl cotton; 2,100 yd/lb 12/6 cotton; 1,430 yd/lb (48,340 m/kg); 36, 48, 60 (8,555 m/kg); 15, 20, 24 (4,238 m/kg); 12, 16, 18 (2,925 m/kg); 10, 14, 16 40/2 pearl cotton; 16,800 yd/lb 10/2 pearl cotton; 4,200 yd/lb 5/2 unmercerized cotton; 2,100 yd/lb 100% organic cotton (Pakucho) (4,238 m/kg); 12, 16, 18 (33,900 m/kg); 36, 48, 60 (8,475 m/kg); 20, 24, 28 1,375 yd/lb (2,775 m/kg); 10, 12, 15 DMC Perle Cotton #5 (2-ply); 2,100 50/3 sewing thread; 14,000 yd/lb 10/2 unmercerized cotton; 4,200 Cotton flake (Noho); 1,320 yd/lb yd/lb (4,238 m/kg); 12, 16, 18 (28,250 m/kg); 36, 48, 60 yd/lb (8,470 m/kg); 20, 24, 28 (2,665 m/kg); 10, 14, 16 6-strand cotton embroidery floss 30/2 unmercerized cotton; 11,055 Embroidery floss (Caron Wildflower) 2,100 yd/lb (4,238 m/kg); 12, 16, 18 3/2 pearl cotton; 1,260 yd/lb yd/lb (22,300 m/kg); 30, 45, 54 4,000 yd/lb (8,060 m/kg); 20, 24, 28 (2,442 m/kg); 10, 14, 16 80% cotton, 20% wool (Cotton Fine); 20/2 pearl
    [Show full text]
  • Knitting Scarf - Evening
    We show that you have registered for the MSCR class: BEGINNING KNITTING SCARF - EVENING Please bring yarn, needles and tools to class on the 1st day. We recommend you wait until 1 week prior to the start of class to purchase supplies in the event the class is cancelled. If you have questions, please feel free to contact us at [email protected]. WHERE TO SHOP: Joanne’s Craft Store or a local yarn store. SUPPLY LIST: (see below for more details) 1. One or two balls of SMOOTH YARN Please do not buy hanks of yarn (see left) unless you can have them wound into balls at the store. (You cannot knit directly from a hank, and they take a long time to wind by hand.) 2. NEEDLES in the size suggested on the label 3. TOOLS: Gauge tool, yarn needle, stitch markers, and measuring tape WHAT KIND OF YARN SHOULD YOU GET? CHOOSE YOUR PROJECT FIRST: For a spring/fall or summer A/C scarf, get a lighter weight smooth yarn (yarn sizes 2-4). Cotton, silk rayon and nylon are great for summer--unless you get really cold in the A/C---then get wool or acrylic! For cold weather scarves, get wool, other animal fibers, or acrylic (or a mix of these) in thicker weights (yarn sizes 5-7). Wool takes a little extra care for washing, but cannot be beat for warmth. CHOOSING YOUR YARN: BEST: Smooth, plied yarns like Lion Brand Thick & Quick or Wool-Ease Chunky are easiest to work with.
    [Show full text]