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I. 11. VI. VII. XN. YARN Numl3ering SYSTEM

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I. 11. VI. VII. XN. YARN Numl3ering SYSTEM YARN NUMBEIUNG SYSTEM I. Cotton: Number of 840-yard 'lengths per pound 11. Decitex: Number of grams per 10,000 meters IrI. Denier: Number of grams per 9,000 meters IV. Dewsbuy : Number of.yard lengths per ounce v. Jute: Number of pounds per 14,400 yards VI. Linen: Number of 300-yard lengths per pound VII. Tex: Number of grams per kilometer XN. Woolen: No. of 256 yd lengths per lb XV. Worsted: No. of 560 yd lengths per lb YARN NUMl3ERING SYSTEM All manufactured products are made with a specific plan and design, and regardless of the type of product, they will be given a designation for size, length, width or weight. Automobile tires, shoes, electrical wire, carpets and wearing apparel are all marketed with some designation concerning size. Fabrics are constructed with a certain number of warp ends and filling picks per inch, a specified width during production and after finishing, and the yarns that go into the fabric must also have a specific designation. - This is called the "number" of a yarn, although there are times when the designation is referred to as yarn size or yam count. (The term "size" often refers to a protective coating for a warp yarn, and "count" is used in designating the number of yarns in a constructed fabric.) There are five yam-numbering systems used extensively in the textile industry today. These are: English or Cotton System Worsted System Metric System Tex System Denier System Other systems have been used in various places and some are still in use today, but the five listed above are the ones we will examine in this study. It might be mentioned, however, that the woolen run system and the linen system may be referred to occasionally. The five systems to be considered are divided into two categories. The English system. worsted and metric svstems are all indirect svstems for measuring yarn number. This is true beczuse in each case the varn number increases as the bulk of the varn decreases. These three systems establish the number by measuring the length of the yarn in a fixed unit of weight. The weight used in the English and worsted systems is one pound, but the length varies between the different systems. The English system, for example, utilizes an 840-yard hank as the established length, while the worsted system uses a 560-yard hank. In the English system, a yarn that has one 840-yard hank weighing one pound is given the number of 1. If the yarn is decreased in bulk so that it will be necessary to have two 840-yard hanks to weigh one pound, then this is a 2's number. Continuing this, a 20's English system yarn number would have twenty 840-yard hanks in one pound. Therefore, we simply measure yarns on the English system as "Xnumber of hanks per pound, with the hank length being 840 yards. The worsted svstem is quite similar with only one change - the hank length is 560 yards. If a worsted yarn is onsuch weight that one 560-yard hank weighs one pound, then this is a 1's worsted number. If it takes fifteen of the 560-yard hanks to weigh one - pound, then we have a 15's worsted number. The metric svstem, also an indirect method of yarn numbering, varies from the two previously mentioned systems in that it uses metric units of length and weight. The hank length in this system is 1,000 meters, and the unit of weight is 1,000 grams, or one kilogram. The measurement then becomes the number of 1,000-meter lengths per kilogram of the yarn. Otherwise, metric yarn numbers are calculated in exactly the same way as the other two indirect systems. For example, a yarn 1,000 meters in length and weighing one kilogram would be a 1's metric number. If there are five 1,000-meter lengths weighing one kilogram, then this is a 5's metric yarn. This system is very similar to the English and worsted systems in that it has a fixed unit of weight and designates the number of a yarn by the number of length units in the fixed weight. In general terms, units for yam numbers are not written with the number itself, although the units are hanksfunits of weight. These are normally understood without writing them with the actual number. If we are refening to a 20's English number, we simply designate it as such, or write it as 2011, actually 20 hanks/pound. The worsted designation is usually shown in a slightly different manner, where a 10's worsted yam would be designated as 1/10. This is a common practice, and whenever such a designation is used, it is considered to be a worsted number. (Whenever there is a question about the yarn numbering system used, it is simply best to ask others involved about the designation.) It has become a common practice recently to carry letters behind the yam number. to designate which yarn system is being used.. For example, a 20/1 English number might be designated 20/1 N,. This means that we are using the English system for numbering the yarn. A worsted system yam of the same bulk might be designated Nw, and the metric system would be N,. Whatever the case may be, it should be remembered that gJ three of these svstems are indirect methods of designating. yarn number. There is a fixed weight for each yarn (one pound for the cotton and worsted systems and one kilogram for the metric system), while the hank length in each case is different. In the list of yam numbering systems given, the two remaining are the denier and -tex. Both of these are direct methods in that the number of the yarn being. considered increases as the weight of the varn increases. In both cases, there is a fixed length of yam, and the number is determined by finding the weight of the fixed lengths. The denier system has been used almost exclusively for man-made fibers and yarns. This desimation is based on a fixed length of 9.000 meters, and the number is established bv determining how manv grams this lennth weighs. For example, if a 9,000- meter length weighs 15 grams, the denier number of the yam is 15. If the 9,000 meters weighs 50 grams, then this is a 50-denier yam. In actual practice, we do not measure a 9,000-meter length of the yarn and weigh it in grarns, but we utilize a simple formula that will save the trouble of dealing with such a long length. This is: Denier = English or Cotton No. in hanks/lb Also, denier number can be determined by a method commonly used in measuring cotton yarns. This is to take a 120-yard length of yarn and weigh it in grams. Then, we can find the denier number by the following formula: Grams/l20 yards Denier No. = 0.1881 Compared with the other four systems, the tex system is a fairly recent development in designating yarn numbers. It was intended to be a universal system and is based on metric measurements of grams and meters. It is a direct system of measuring yarn number, as has been previously indicated, and it is similar to the denier system in that it designates a yarn number by measuring the number of grams of a specified length of yarn. The len* used is 1.000 meters, or a kilometer, and the tex number of a niven yarn is simply the number of msthat the 1.000-meter leneth weighs. If 1,000 meters is a 20's tex number, and so on. The tex system has been found quite practical for use by a number of companies and is utilized in many parts of the world, although it does not seem to have yet received the universal acceptance that was intended. In some cases, yarn numbers will be reported in an older and traditionally used system, such as the English system, and then will also be given in a tex number. Here in the United States, we often see a yarn number expressed both ways, which facilitates a better understanding in cases where some - organization may have need for both. While we want to be familiar with all five of these yarn-numbering systems and will use them fiom time to time, our study in this course will be primarily devoted to the English, or cotton, system. The reason for this is that this system is used almost exclusively in the United States and is the one that our textile technologists deal with more than any other. We do not want to minimize the value of the other systems, however, for they are used every day in certain segments of industry. For those textile graduates who will go into carpet yarn production that is done primarily on the worsted system, worsted yarn numbers could become very important. On the other hand, technologists in the man-made fiber production industry will find that the denier system is by far the most used. The cotton numbering system normally begins with roving, although a number expressed in hankslpound can be assigned to any measurable material. Roving, which is the product of a roving machine, is a phase of preparation between sliver and yam. The sliver is reduced in bulk to a predetermined size that can be used for feeding to a ring- spinning machine.
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