YARN NUMBEIUNG SYSTEM
I. Cotton: Number of 840-yard 'lengths per pound 11. Decitex: Number of grams per 10,000 meters IrI. Denier: Number of grams per 9,000 meters IV. Dewsbuy : Number of.yard lengths per ounce v. Jute: Number of pounds per 14,400 yards VI. Linen: Number of 300-yard lengths per pound VII. Tex: Number of grams per kilometer XN. Woolen: No. of 256 yd lengths per lb XV. Worsted: No. of 560 yd lengths per lb
YARN NUMl3ERING SYSTEM
All manufactured products are made with a specific plan and design, and regardless of the type of product, they will be given a designation for size, length, width or weight. Automobile tires, shoes, electrical wire, carpets and wearing apparel are all marketed with some designation concerning size. Fabrics are constructed with a certain number of warp ends and filling picks per inch, a specified width during production and after finishing, and the yarns that go into the fabric must also have a specific designation. - This is called the "number" of a yarn, although there are times when the designation is referred to as yarn size or yam count. (The term "size" often refers to a protective coating for a warp yarn, and "count" is used in designating the number of yarns in a constructed fabric.) There are five yam-numbering systems used extensively in the textile industry today. These are: English or Cotton System Worsted System Metric System Tex System Denier System Other systems have been used in various places and some are still in use today, but the five listed above are the ones we will examine in this study. It might be mentioned, however, that the woolen run system and the linen system may be referred to occasionally. The five systems to be considered are divided into two categories. The English system. worsted and metric svstems are all indirect svstems for measuring yarn number. This is true beczuse in each case the varn number increases as the bulk of the varn decreases. These three systems establish the number by measuring the length of the yarn in a fixed unit of weight. The weight used in the English and worsted systems is one pound, but the length varies between the different systems. The English system, for example, utilizes an 840-yard hank as the established length, while the worsted system uses a 560-yard hank. In the English system, a yarn that has one 840-yard hank weighing one pound is given the number of 1. If the yarn is decreased in bulk so that it will be necessary to have two 840-yard hanks to weigh one pound, then this is a 2's number. Continuing this, a 20's English system yarn number would have twenty 840-yard hanks in one pound. Therefore, we simply measure yarns on the English system as "Xnumber of hanks per pound, with the hank length being 840 yards. The worsted svstem is quite similar with only one change - the hank length is 560 yards. If a worsted yarn is onsuch weight that one 560-yard hank weighs one pound, then this is a 1's worsted number. If it takes fifteen of the 560-yard hanks to weigh one - pound, then we have a 15's worsted number. The metric svstem, also an indirect method of yarn numbering, varies from the two previously mentioned systems in that it uses metric units of length and weight. The hank length in this system is 1,000 meters, and the unit of weight is 1,000 grams, or one kilogram. The measurement then becomes the number of 1,000-meter lengths per kilogram of the yarn. Otherwise, metric yarn numbers are calculated in exactly the same way as the other two indirect systems. For example, a yarn 1,000 meters in length and weighing one kilogram would be a 1's metric number. If there are five 1,000-meter lengths weighing one kilogram, then this is a 5's metric yarn. This system is very similar to the English and worsted systems in that it has a fixed unit of weight and designates the number of a yarn by the number of length units in the fixed weight. In general terms, units for yam numbers are not written with the number itself, although the units are hanksfunits of weight. These are normally understood without writing them with the actual number. If we are refening to a 20's English number, we simply designate it as such, or write it as 2011, actually 20 hanks/pound. The worsted designation is usually shown in a slightly different manner, where a 10's worsted yam would be designated as 1/10. This is a common practice, and whenever such a designation is used, it is considered to be a worsted number. (Whenever there is a question about the yarn numbering system used, it is simply best to ask others involved about the designation.) It has become a common practice recently to carry letters behind the yam number. to designate which yarn system is being used.. For example, a 20/1 English number might be designated 20/1 N,. This means that we are using the English system for numbering the yarn. A worsted system yam of the same bulk might be designated Nw, and the metric system would be N,. Whatever the case may be, it should be remembered that gJ three of these svstems are indirect methods of designating. yarn number. There is a fixed weight for each yarn (one pound for the cotton and worsted systems and one kilogram for the metric system), while the hank length in each case is different. In the list of yam numbering systems given, the two remaining are the denier and -tex. Both of these are direct methods in that the number of the yarn being. considered increases as the weight of the varn increases. In both cases, there is a fixed length of yam, and the number is determined by finding the weight of the fixed lengths. The denier system has been used almost exclusively for man-made fibers and yarns. This desimation is based on a fixed length of 9.000 meters, and the number is established bv determining how manv grams this lennth weighs. For example, if a 9,000- meter length weighs 15 grams, the denier number of the yam is 15. If the 9,000 meters weighs 50 grams, then this is a 50-denier yam. In actual practice, we do not measure a 9,000-meter length of the yarn and weigh it in grarns, but we utilize a simple formula that will save the trouble of dealing with such a long length. This is:
Denier = English or Cotton No. in hanks/lb Also, denier number can be determined by a method commonly used in measuring cotton yarns. This is to take a 120-yard length of yarn and weigh it in grams. Then, we can find the denier number by the following formula:
Grams/l20 yards Denier No. = 0.1881
Compared with the other four systems, the tex system is a fairly recent development in designating yarn numbers. It was intended to be a universal system and is based on metric measurements of grams and meters. It is a direct system of measuring yarn number, as has been previously indicated, and it is similar to the denier system in that it designates a yarn number by measuring the number of grams of a specified length of yarn. The len* used is 1.000 meters, or a kilometer, and the tex number of a niven yarn is simply the number of msthat the 1.000-meter leneth weighs. If 1,000 meters is a 20's tex number, and so on. The tex system has been found quite practical for use by a number of companies and is utilized in many parts of the world, although it does not seem to have yet received the universal acceptance that was intended. In some cases, yarn numbers will be reported in an older and traditionally used system, such as the English system, and then will also be given in a tex number. Here in the United States, we often see a yarn number expressed both ways, which facilitates a better understanding in cases where some - organization may have need for both. While we want to be familiar with all five of these yarn-numbering systems and will use them fiom time to time, our study in this course will be primarily devoted to the English, or cotton, system. The reason for this is that this system is used almost exclusively in the United States and is the one that our textile technologists deal with more than any other. We do not want to minimize the value of the other systems, however, for they are used every day in certain segments of industry. For those textile graduates who will go into carpet yarn production that is done primarily on the worsted system, worsted yarn numbers could become very important. On the other hand, technologists in the man-made fiber production industry will find that the denier system is by far the most used. The cotton numbering system normally begins with roving, although a number expressed in hankslpound can be assigned to any measurable material. Roving, which is the product of a roving machine, is a phase of preparation between sliver and yam. The sliver is reduced in bulk to a predetermined size that can be used for feeding to a ring- spinning machine. As you will recall, sliver &as meas& in grainslyard, but when this is converted to roving, the system of measurement becomes hankslpounds. Therefore, it should be understood at this point that roving and yarn are measured in exactly the same manner. In fact, a 2's roving and a 2's yarn are the same weighthit length (more properly, the same number of hanks/pound), and the only difference is in the amount of twist. While roving is measured in the same way as yarn, it must be in a condition to be drafted one more time at the spinning process. Therefore, the twist in roving must be at a level to permit the fibers in it to be drafied at spinning for reduction to the desired yarn number. The purpose of twisting roving in the first place is to give the strand of fiber identity and permit it to hold its form while being wound onto the roving bobbin and then unwound at the spinning process. If insufficient twist is inserted in roving, the strand may be ruptured either during the roving process, handling between processes, or when an attempt is made to pull it form the package at spinning. If too much twist is inserted, then in effect yarn is made at the roving Me,for the fibers cannot be pulled apart by the drafting rolls at spinning. It can be seen, then, that the amount of twist inserted at the roving machine is very important. It should be sufficient to five the strand identity and -. protection but it should not be excessive, which will prohibit further drafting of the fiber. Twisting is a function of several machines and is necessary for the production of singles and plied yams. It is of sufficient importance to require a separate study, and notes on this will be found in a subsequent section. It has already been pointed out that the cotton system of numbering roving and yarn is based on units of length per a given weight, where the weight is one pound. This weight does not vary and is constant for every measurement of roving and yarn when using this system. The units of length vary in that any number of these lengths, or hanks, can be measured for the one pound of weight involved, depending on the bulk of the yam. We previously stated that a 2's ymnumber means simply that there are two hanks in one pound of the yarn. Yarns such as 20's or 30's would have either 20 hanks in one pound or 30 hankslpound. There are 840 yards in one hank and the internal length of the hank does not vary, but what does vary in yarn numbering is the number of these 840- yard hanks per pound of the yarn. It becomes apparent that it is not practical to determine the number of a yam simply by winding off one pound of it. It would seem that the procedure for finding the yarn number would be to wind yarn form a given package and measure the yardage as it is unwound until one pound of this yarn is obtained. This would entail a considerable amount of time and work, to say nothing of the wasted yarn. A better system is to take a shorter length of yam, weigh it in a much smaller unit of weight, and then convert these shorter length and weight units to the standard hankslpound. As yards and grains are commonly used in any textile operation, the practical approach would be us use these units for obtaining the length and weight necessary. Therefore, we can wind any number of yards from any given package and weigh this in grains and then convert to hankslpound by the following formula:
Yards X 7000 Grains/Lb. 1) Yarn No. in HanksPound = . Wt. In Grains of these Yards X 840 Yards/Hank
Or better: Yards X 8-113 2) YamNo. = Grains
As roving and yarn numbers are both measured in hankslpound, we can use any convenient number of yards in the above formulae. Whatever length is selected, the - strand must be weighed in grains and the number of grains for the yardage is inserted in the lower part of the formula Further, inasmuch as 7,000 grainslpound can be divided by 840 yards/hank to give 8-113, the formula can be simplified considerably. All the units that are necessary to give the result in hankslpound are involved. Many years ago it was determined that the most convenient length of yam to use in determining this number is 120 yards. As 120 X 8-113 = 1,000, the calculation becomes simply that of dividirig the weight in grains of the 120 yards into 1,000. For roving, it is usually convenient to use 12 yards, which will require dividing 100 by the weight in grains of the 12 yards of the material. Examples of this are given as follows: 1) If 120 yards of yarn weight 50 grains, what is the yam number? 120 X 8-1/3 Yarn No. = 50 Yarn No. = 20 hanksnb. 2) If 12 yards of roving weigh 68 grains, what is the roving number? 12 X 8-113 100 Roving No. = 68 68 Roving No. = 1.47 hanksnb.
Yarn and Fabrim Machine" Home me: lh;r~un, BOX3978. Greenville. SC 29608 USA Tel. (803) 242-5262 Cable Loubatco Telex 57-0468
Metric English Metric English Denier Tex. (Nm) (Ne) Worsted IDenier Tex. (Nm) (Ne 1 Worsted 11.81 17-72 13.28 15-18 17 .72 21.26 22.15 23.ll 24.16 25-31 26.57 27-25 27 -97 28.75 29.53 30 -36 31.26
2800 311.24 2600 288-93 2400 266-67 2200 244.50 2000 222.42 2500 166.81 -200 133.44 -000 111.21 900 100.07 800 88.95 700 77.84 650 72.29 COO 66.72 550 61.16 500 55.60 1. DESCRIPTION OF TERMS USED IN THE REPORTS In the following, all reports are described which the Uster Tensorapid tensile testing installation is able to print out. Accordingly, all the results that the tensile testing installation can calculate are thus explained.
Arrangement of the terms on the test sheet:
@ COUNT : 23,88 TEX @ART.NO.: EA.125 @TEST NO.: 4181 SIG: ..... HEAS. RANGES: @ F = SOBCN @ E = 18% TEST PAHAHETERS:@V = 1808MPVllIN @FV = 12CN OF- = 0,8X @LH= 588mTI LIPIIT VALUES: OF= 68/ 630CN @E= 1,38/ 11.48%
TIME TO 6-UORK B-FORCE TENACITY ELONG . BREAK (s) (u~.cn) ( CN 1 ( CN/TEX ) < X) 0 0 PACKAGE 1: 28 TESTS TOTAL (OUTSIDE LIMITS: 8 TESTS ) HEAN VALUES @4,03 @586.3 0359.8 @lS,l2 @ 6.W CO€FF.OF VARIATION CVX @ 11,88 @ 6,58 @ 6.58 @ 7,60 95%-CONF . RANGE. 4,'- 2Z,6 @ 11.1 @ 0,47 @ 8,Zl
PACKAGE 2: 28 TESTS TOT4L PACKAGE 3: 20 TESTS TOTAL OVERALL E=LTS 10 PACKAGE 1.1 Count 2 Yarn count. Measuring unit in tex or gf (gram-force) 1.2 Art. No. 3 Article number. The article number serves for identifying the sample or the yarn batch with respect to type of fibre, fibre length, origin, manufacturing process, etc. With the article number alphanumerical characters from A to Z are possible. The article number consists of 8 characters. 1.3 Test No. 4 Test number. The test number is intended in order that one can differentiate between printouts of the same yarn sample or yarn batch and be able to arrange the tests in the correct sequence. If a test number according to the above is not necessary, then the 8 characters available for this purpose can be used for identimg other reference values such as for instance those which are necessary for providing a more accurate description of the manufacturing process. In this case also alphanumerical characters fkom A to Z are possible. . 3. GRAPHICAL REPRESENTATION OF THE RESULTS 3.1 Strokediagram The stroke diagram is a graphical representation of the single values of force and elongation and provides the observer with information which is not easy to obtain from a table of figures, e.g., periodic changes of force and elongation. Examples, in this respect, are provided in the Application Handbook Nr. 240 712-20020. 3.2 Frequency distribution diagram of maximum force The frequency distribution diagrams of maximum force provide a representation of the distribution of the single values. Further details with respect to the frequency distribution diagrams are to be found in the Application Handbook No. 240 712-20020. Yam: Pnlyester loo%, count 12.5 tex FREOUWCY DISTRI6UTfON GF FOt4C-E AT EKEAK 3AIIPLE SIZE: 18 FACK&GE(S>= 4W TESTS 131'AC tOU'ISZOE 1,tRlIS: 8 l't'5T(S)i Fig. 3.2 3.3 Frequency distribution diagram of elongation The frequency distribution diagram of elongation provides a representation of the distribution of the single values. Further details with respect to the frequency distribution diagrams are to be found in the Application Handbook No. 240 712- Yarn: Polyester loo%, count 12.5 tex COUNT : 12,5@TEX ART-NO.: FB.381 TESTNO.: 22 C;.xG': . . . . ISW. WGS: FL S2W C = 3% Tm FMTERS V = 546WALlW FV = 6:cW CH = WWI ' Fl- = P,)l €1 ?,@I LWT UWIFS: F = 2,Ml S,N C = fi:46f 16:MX FREQUENCY DIS fRtlfilT 1-a! fl.BNl;rii 1064 SCIRFI-E SIZE: 18 PAU(kC;E 49 s -10 IS .?la i au ss 443 4s se st; sa as E Fig. 3.3 -. 3.4 Force-elongation characteristic curve Force-elongation characteristic curves show the relationship which, in most cases, is not linear, between force and elongation up to the yarn rupture. The Application Handbook No. 240 712-20020 provides further information on this subject. The following example is in reference to a filament yarn, polyester POY, dtex 167/30. On the same sheet, 30 tests are drawn out taken from the same package. The characteristic curves provide not only a reference to the variation between the separate samples, but also an indication of the conditions of rupture. COUNT: 16,70 TEX 6RT. NO. r EGq2B TEST NO. : 52 SIG: .. . .. -AS. RANGES: F - 18,eN E'= 288X TEST FARANETEHS: V-- 1BBetln/PIIN FV r €3:3-b4 F- = 2:8X LH Seenn FORCE/EXTENSION-DIAGR6f4 SINGLE VALUES sAnnE SIZE I i PMKAGECS)- 3e TESTS TOTAL 8..0@8 8,780 1,48 2,10 2,88 3,33 4,20 4,98 S,60 6:38 7,W 1rt.t ,.II.,.*.,., FORCE Fig. 3.4 The following representation shows a mean value characteristic curve of the 30 tests referred to in Fig. 3.4 the short stroke which can be seen on the force- elongation curve at approx. 97% elongation indicates that the weakest yam in the sample actually broke at this position. -* USTEf3 TEUSOHAPIID * 13:18 FH 23.17 .MY SHEET ? CW: 46,78 TEX ART-NO. : El3128 TEST NO. : 52 SIG: .. .. . nms.~ma~=: F- ~e,w E= E~OX TEST PMARISTERS: U - lBBBW/RXN FV : 8,3CH F- = 2.4% t-H L= IBBm F ORWEXTEUSIOW-OIAGRAn HEM VAI.IIF .. SI75: 1 PM;K&GE( S )a= 38 TE3TS TOTRL 4 LIMITS: cb 1%TCE) ) Fig. 3.5 4.2 Extreme values in the extended minimum report Fig. 4.2 shows the corresponding sum value report. The arrows show that the packages 1,3,4 and 8 had one or several tests outside the limit values. *+ USTER TEHSOR-PXO ** 13:39 UE 28.11.84 COUNT : 12,% TEX ART. NO. : FK142 TEST NO. : 62 REAS. H4NGESI F = 5,BN E = 28% TEST PAMETEUSI V = =AOBNN/nIN FV = 6,ZCN F- = 2:WX LH = 'Arm LIHIT VALUES: F = 2:88/ S,tBN E - 8,88/ 1&,88X TINE TO 6-UOKK B-FORCE TENACITY BREAK CS) PACKAGE 11 37 tESTS TOTAL ( OLlfSZDE UIUTS: 3 TEST PACKAGE 2: 48 TESTS TOTAL PACKAOE 3: 39 TESTS TOTAL (OUTSIDE UMITS: I fEST PACKAGE 4: 38 T ES* TOTAL (OUTSIDE LIHIW1 2 TEST PAC( PACK&€ 6: 40 TESTS TOTAL PACKAGE 7: 48 TESTS TOTAL (OUTSIDE LIUITS: REAN VALES 9.87 1838 COEFF-OF VARIATION CVX 15:72 35%-CONF. RANGE. +/- 52 FACKAGE 8: 39 TESTS TOTAL (OUTSIDE LIHITSI HEAN VALUES 0,87. 1874 COEFF-OF VARIATION CVX 16,54 95%-CONF. RANGE. +/- 57 Fig. 4.2 4.3 Extreme values in the stroke diacrams Fig. 4.3 shows a section of a stroke diagram of the same yam. The values that lie outside the set limits are marked with an arrow. COUNT : 12,58 TEX ART.NO. : FK142 TEST NO. : '52 SXG: ..... REAS. RANGES: F= 5,8N E= 28% TEST PARARETERS: V = 5080Mn/UIN FV = 6 F- = 2,0X LH = S0BFlM LrnxT V~LUES: F= 2.ee/ S,Z~N E- e,ee/ t6,eox PACKME FORCE AT GREIAK ELONGATION Fig. 4.3 4.4 Extreme values in the frequency distribution diagram of force Fig. 4.4 shows a frequency distribution diagram of force of the same yarn. The values outside the limits are marked with a zero rather than an asterisk. The drawn-in arrows indicate these zeros. Values which lie more than 20% outside the chosen measuring range are not printed out in the frequency distribution diagram. rr: USTER TENSORAF-XO f* 13139 WE 28.11.84 SHEET 1 COUNT: 12,58TEX 4RT.NO.: FK142 TESTNO.: 62 . . SIG: . ... . SEAS. RANGES: F - 5,8N E = 20% TEST PAHARETERS: U = 5808FlH/MIN FV = 6,EW F- = 2,BX LN = SBBZ'Itl LIHITVCVUESX F= 2,88/ 5,20N Em 8,88/ 16,88X FREOUENCY OISTRIWTION OF FORCE AT TREfiK m SIZE: 30 PACKAGE F 120 146 168 'lee 280 228 248 260 288 388 320 348 368 388 488 Fig. 4.4 4.5 Extreme values in the fiequency distribution diagram of elongation Fig. 4.5 shows the frequency distribution diagram of elongation of the same yarn. The same applies here as in Fig. 4.4. COUNT : 12150 TEX ART-NO. : FK142 TEST NO. : 62 SXG: . . . . . PEAS. RANGES: FE 5,8N EP 20% TEST YMiMETERS: V = 5880tm/lVIN N 6:2CN F- = 2,8X LH = 50BPIfl LInITVALUES: F= 2,08/ 5,28N E= a,@@/ 16,882 FREQUENCY DXSTRIWTION OF ELONGATION SAHFLE SIZE: le PACltAGE(S)= 397 TESTS TOTAL Fig. 4.5 TEXI?S TECH UNIVERSXTV INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE CEMfR YARN TEST DATA smR46TH TESTS - SKEIN rEnioD PRaJECT NO. - 5362 CLIENT; DATE: 3/24/95 GRADE : TEST NO. - TO3 SOMPLE ID; - D YARN NUMFERr lO/l TWIST MULTIPLE: - 4.0 SKEIN BREGK YARN COUNT AVERFIGE Sm. DEV. C.V. PCT. ACTUAL BREAK FACTOR: 3309.7 CORFECTED BREW: FACTOR: 3308.7 -. STER TESTER 3 W.42 FR 24-03-95 9: 11 OPERCITOR: JS PGGE: 1 EXAS TECH. UNIVWSIN INTMATIONAL TEXTIG ENTER 3lWGLE-/UVEf?eLL RESULTS t2% A Testno.: 0 Fiba asse&lyx 18 tbx m; mw 4q0 ylun 1.0 dn T.rtL' 1011 Slot: 3 1 Yam .Yam tcrrbm: 3.8 I Iqafectiats: dwt -1e T& m. ISk Thin plmThick pl. l@s ((el. cant Wiriness rh ------a) +3321 (+sun (tm II) (-1 (-1 1 U.66 9 115 M 99.4 6.81 1.63 2 16s 11 130 214 a8 6.77 1.33 3 16.47 7 117 192 W.1 6.73 i.E 4 16.52 10 102 l?7 101.7 6.61 1.74 5 17.05 7 L30 97-3 hS? 1.76 6 U.X 16 I51 2(8 98.0 6.38 1.74 7 16.68 13 103 192 W.7 h.30 1.b5 8 16.34 14 83 178 102.4 6.49 1.m 4 1kJb 11 116 .193 1U2.3 d29 I1,&l ------10 16.50 B 97 183 1a2.2 6.27 1-61 n value 1h.U Zb nty 23 Iky 511 lky 103.0 652 L72 -. . -. - - .- - .-A .". Y 4. . 7, :TZCLE NO. : PO+. TEST NO. : 0 FR 31-03-S 1Zr17 PAGE: 1 D~&STAP1. mass Cut length: Ncrazl Rat erial lengttr 25+ ' I i Diagram 1. mars Cut Icngth: Noraal flatrrial length Speetrsgran 1. sass Uavcl erigtb - 0.3. 1.8 3.6 18 lqd 2 5 18 28 58 lB8268 5801088 RTICLE NO.: POH TEST NO. : 0 fTi J1--03-95 12: 17 F'GGE: 2 2UZ Variance-lens%? curve 1. &ass. Cut Iengrb 3e 4RTICLE NO.: PDH. TEST NO,: 0 Sptctrb~rams. mass Variance-length curves, aass Cut length STER TESTER 3 VZ-42 FR 31-03-95 12117. OERATOR: JB PAGE: 4 EXAS TECH. UNIVERSITY INTENATIONAL TEXTILE CENTER 3X.NGLE-/OVEFZ&LL RESULTS %rib.. -31 T&M.: 0 Fiber ely:67 gly -1m UrnlH.YUGHT : 50y/ain t:ZSun Tuts: 111 Slot:l/S3ivgs Yantensicn:fCQX I.perfecticns:~dqle Test no. CVn ------(%) 1 5-68 Wgt./Unit Length In Se X Ne Draft = Wgt./Unit Length Out Draft = 8.333 Se = Sliver Wgt. In GrainsNd. Ne = Yarn Number English or CC (Cotton Count) Tpi = Turns/Inch T/M = TurnsNeter T.M. = Twist Multiplier Twist = turnslunit length T.M. = TPU d~e Production = Wgt./Unit Time Delivery MetersMin. = RPM = RPM TM JN~x T.M. x 39.37 . ProductionIUnit Time TimelUnit Wgt. Oz./Hr. = m/min x 1.25 Ne Twist in Plied Yam TPI of PIiedYarn = 0.8 x Singles TPI JN~.Plies