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Il Loanese & Il Pietrese Information and Tourist Reception Offices - I.A.T.

Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052) Piazza Libertà, 1 tel. e fax 0182 950 784 Azienda di e-mail: [email protected] Promozione Borgio Verezzi (17022) Turistica seasonal Via Matteotti, 158 Riviera delle Palme tel. e fax 019 610 412 e-mail: [email protected]

www.inforiviera.it e-mail: [email protected] Loano (17025) Corso Europa, 19 Head office tel. 019 676 007 (17021) fax 019 676 818 Viale Gibb, 26 e-mail: [email protected] tel. 0182 647 11 fax 0182 644 690 Pietra Ligure (17027) Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 30 tel. 019 629 003 fax 019 629 790 e-mail: [email protected]

Toirano (17055) Piazzale Grotte tel. 0182 989 938 fax 0182 984 63 e-mail: [email protected] Riviera delle Palme delle Riviera Riviera delle Palme

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Colori compositi COPERTINA LOANESE ING 5-06-2006 15:48 Pagina 2

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he short arc of land ealthy eating, and sea healthy living, sleeping al fresco between Borgio Verezzi and ww Borghetto Santo Spirito epitomises When we're packed into our crowded ttall that has to offer its city streets, stuck in traffic jams, or inhabitants and the would-be locals crushed into buses and trains, we who love it so: crystal-clear seas, would all like to live as they do in the sandy beaches, ancient seaside adverts, where families eat breakfast villages and modern facilities and out in the fresh country air with happy, amenities for a fun-packed holiday. relaxed smiles on their faces and not Waiting to be discovered a stone's a trace of the Monday morning blues throw from the sea lie green valleys in sight. carpeted with olive groves and pine Life isn't like that in the real world. But trees, and prehistoric caves which we can get closer to our ideal by were home to the very first Ligurians: staying on one of the homesteads modern-day visitors to the caves at inland of Pietra and Loano, perhaps Borgio and Toirano never fail to be among the olive groves at Toirano or mesmerised by the unexpected Giustènice, or in a 15th century palazzo natural spectacle which lies in wait in the heart of , for them. revelling in the sheer pleasure of Lovers of open-air sports and sleeping amidst green fields a few sweeping panoramas will savour the high mountain scenery and kilometres from the sea. exhilarating excursions, with visits The towns along the coast are ideal if to welcoming homesteads where you want to dance the night away or they can taste and buy olive oils, sip cocktails on the seafront; but if you local foods and wines which cannot prefer to rest on your holidays, to seek be found on the supermarket shelf. out peace and quiet and the forgotten The area around Loano and Pietra flavours of traditional foods... Ligure offers holiday-makers no end While you are here, take the chance of entertainments, international to taste the olive oils, wine, fruit and festivals and dialect theatre seasons, vegetables which local farmers produce cool summer nights in country for connoisseurs. villages, popular feast days with All in all you will be glad you chose the delicious treats made from wild Riviera delle Palme for your vacation. mushrooms and fresh vegetables. All year round lovers of excursions can While this part of the Riviera is enjoy breathtaking itineraries which run wonderful all year round, it really right along the edge of the sea, and comes into its own between wooded tracks which take them to the September and June, when the tops of mountains: to help them along climate is mild and the beaches are their way, the APT Riviera delle Palme less crowded; it is no coincidence has produced special walkers' maps, that tourism first began here in the copies of which can be picked up from winter, at the turn of the 20th all IAT tourist offices. century, when English and German tourists came to soak up the sun and escape the fogs and mists of the north. These rich, aristocratic globetrotters paved the way for the visitors who flock to the Riviera di Pietra e di Loano from Milan, Turin, Germany and Holland to savour © 2001, APT Riviera delle Palme - Alassio Editorial content: sun-drenched, fun-packed M&R Comunicazione - Genova vacations. Text: Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio Translation: Ginevra Marchiani Graphics and illustrations: Studio Gioberti - Photos: APT Riviera delle Palme Archives; M&R Archives; Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio; Flavio Furlani; Fabrizio Gioberti; Roberto Merlo; Gianni Ottonello; Stefano Piola; Andrea Siri; Luigi Strata Printed by:M .Sabatelli Ed. - SV

Colori compositi Il Loanese & il Pietrese

Borgio Verezzi A double name vegetable gardens and for long centuries was for a double village orchards. Its cobbled exposed to the risk of Half on the sea, half on streets lead to the sloping incursions by saracen the hills: here is Borgio Piazza San Pietro and to pirates. Between the hill of Verezzi, a place with its white eighteenth the ancient borgo and the multiple aspects. Borgio is century church and, beach, the flat, modern a very well preserved beyond, to the sixteenth town has all the necessary ancient borgo, it lies on a century, defense keep one facilities to make the stay small hill very close to the of many you can find on of tourists pleasant: beach 1 sea, surrounded by the coast of Liguria, which resorts, restaurants, Borgio Verezzi

in marine flora and fauna, necessary to climb some a joy for scuba divers and panoramic hairpin bends: for those who love to Verezzi is on the top, 200 browse around the metres above sea level, coloured submarine world with its four old borgos with respirator and that are more than 900 flippers. It is also useful for years old, scattered fishermen who supply groups of houses made of fresh fish to restaurants stone, houses as clear as that still propose the the rock of the terraces on Ciüpin, the tasty local fish which they stand, promenades, bars to drink soup prepared by cooking cultivated fields where cocktails in the full slowly the fish in a terra- olives and even carob moonlight. Naturally, in cotta bowl with tomatoes trees grow, with cobbled front of Borgio there's the and other vegetables and alleys, arches and little sea, it is characterized by then pouring the cream in squares, lazy cats, shallow waters and a soup plates over roasted vineyards, stone seats and rocky shoal covered with bread. washing troughs; on top 2 sand at a depth of only To reach the other half of of the hill there is also a half a metre, it is very rich this wonderful town, it is mill, called phoenician Theatre in square

In the borgo Piazza di Verezzi, in Sant'Agostino square, it's more than 30 years that the International Festival of Theatre and the National Award "Veretium" take place. In the sunset, while actors rehearse the show that they will perform at night, among curious cats and the clink of the restaurant dishes, with the scent of the salted water in the air... every year in Verezzi a wedding between nature and culture is celebrated.

● Piazza di Verezzi. Saint Augustin Chapel is the backstage of the famous International Festival of Theatre. Some views of the borgo looking over the sea Il Loanese & il Pietrese

because of Walking on a sunny day All mums of its building along paths and tortuous the world are technique. roads that climb this rocky beautiful They are and green hill, better if in named winter or in spring, far Poggio, from the heart of summer, And the parson Piazza, allowes to deeply of Verezzi knows it very Roccaro, and Crosa the understand all the charm well, infact he rings the four borgos of Verezzi: of the Mediterranean and "mum's bell" every evening little balconies facing the of the Riviera delle Palme at 19 to remember all sun and the sea; at the and to realize with wonder mums of the world. beginning of the second and joy what millennium Saracens living in Liguria already loved this corner means. of Riviera, infact the architectural style in which these houses are built is called "saracen". 3 Borgio Verezzi

Oh, it feels very well, also Traditions because it isn't a camel with hair and humps, of the old but a strange rocky days formation. Just outside The limestone rocks Borgio, in the of this strip of Riviera are borgo cemetery, there's a full of caves and ravines, beautiful, ancient church: it excavated by the water in was founded with the name The camel in the cave the course of millenniums. of San Pietro on the path of In one of his songs Franco And when water and a Roman road and it is now Battiato says he feels limestone play together, dedicated to Saint Stephen; "like a camel in a gutter", they can be great artists. it is medieval and romanic it must not be very The caves of Borgio are and it has an inside wall that, comfortable, poor camel. an underground labyrinth, it is said, had the function to Not to mention the it is a few kilometres long separate men from women famous camel in the and it can be visited under during services. May be in eye of the needle. the guide of speleologists. Borgio there was someone 4 And how would a camel The first haul, 800 metres who went to mass for love in a cave feel? long, has been opened reasons instead of to pray?

● Playing fountains and limestone shapes in Valdemino Cave: dreamy, fanciful figures, in which chemistry interprets the queer creativity of nature Il Loanese & il Pietrese

Eating and to the public since 1970: stalactites, while other drinking the entrance is 36 metres formations enchant with above sea level, inside their winding drapery. ligure there is a constant Then you meet small temperature of 16 degrees lakes created by the Here the kitchen centigrade and a 90% rain that seeps through mixes sea humidity; these are the rock chinks and other with land: let's try the characteristics which oddities which seem Ciüpin, the fish soup, but benefit the visitors’ carved by a visionary don't forget the sage ravioli, respiratory system. sculptor: there's the the bruschetta (roasted The limestone of the rock Camel, and there are the bread with oil, garlic and tomato), the cima ripiena (a contains small quantities Waterfall, the Torso of meat roll with a stuffing of of iron materials which Pope John XXIII, the vegetables, eggs and meat) give to the cave walls red Lighthouse, the and the snails in zimino (a and yellow shades. Samurai.... chickpeas soup). Limited From the ceiling of the It is up to your sensitivity quantities of a white wine cave the "spaghetti" to find out other shapes called “lumassina” are produced in Verezzi. It is an dangle, they are carved by the fantasy amber-coloured wine, with vibrant threadlike of nature. 5 a scent of almonds and pine-seed. When it matures, it becomes sparkling and even more scented.

● The hill of Verezzi is a world made of candid stone, filled with sun and sea salt: it is the true Mediterranean Pietra Ligure

Pietra Ligure A Pria: from rock the early Middle Ages. ensure a mild climate all to town Then it was feud of year long and provided It is a big limestone rock Albenga bishops and in good wood, long and that stands very close to 1385 it became an sandy beaches, an ideal the sea: on the big rock, in independent community site to build shipyards and an uncertain date, the under ’s jurisdiction. to engage in maritime Castrum Petrae was built, The place had been well commerce. a fortified site used by the chosen: high and rich The ancient tradition of 6 bizantines as defense mountains at the back to shipyards is still alive, agaist the longobards in protect agaist the winds commerce has been Il Loanese & il Pietrese flanked by tourism. practise aqua-gym while Thanks to tourism, today leaving your children to the Pietra has a wonderful baby-sitting service. palm-lined promenade And for those who have a and modern seaside four-legged friend, in facilities which enrich the Pietra there is one of the and live music (the oldest long beach where you can first beaches in Liguria italian Filarmonic Society sunbathe in peace, eat, with dogs facilities. was born in Pietra in enjoy surfing and And when the sun goes 1518). Pietra is a place swimming courses and down or when it is too hot for people of every age water sports competitions, to lie on the beach, there and every need. is only to choose among tennis and bowls fields, open air discos, pianobars, beach parties, festivals, the antiques market (every last weekend of the month), classical and dialectal 7 theatre performances

● The tropical vegetation casts long shadows on the sea walk of Pietra, while the fine Liberty windows of XIX century palaces in the borgo shine under the autumn sun Pietra Ligure

new generations is colored walls ot the old decreasing. A dialect that houses it is easy to find desappears is like a typical plates of pink stone which dish whose recipe has gone show the dialectal names lost, a wine whose of roads and squares. grapewine has been rooted out, a patron saint’s festival Walking through that is not celebrated the caruggi Ancient names anymore. Finally, it is a little Just leave sea and for ancient roads cultural and spiritual death, amusements for a while What is more personal, an extinction from which it and let's walk trough the familiar, traditional for a is impossible to come back. population or a community Here in Pietra, or better in than its dialect? It's a pity Pria, people care about that the use and the their dialect and do all that knowledge of the many is possible to avoid it is Italian dialects is slowly forgotten and to let going lost and the number traditional names of places 8 of those who speak and and roads alive. Walking understand dialects among through the Caruggi, on the

Shipbuilders

Industry, art, engineering, handicraft, all this is the shipbuilding; a challenge to nature, that decided for men a land existence. Sailing has been one of the pillars of Ligurian culture for at least 1000 years. The coast towns which during the centuries had little or big shipyards along the beaches are many, there it was simple to build and launch galleys, caravels, gozzi, steamers, vessels and motorboats, under sail or engine. Pietra has a respectable ● When the tourists go shipbuilding tradition, back to the city, the which comes from the fishermen with their nets, centuries of the Genoa the “leudi”, the “gozzi” covered with salt get back Republic. the beach. And to share Today it is specialized in the their dominion, the lazy building of fast ferryboats. cats, lords of the beach and the boats all over the Riviera Il Loanese & il Pietrese centre of Pietra: the Borgo porcelains and prints Vecchio dates from the collections. Two beautiful Middle Ages and, just like churches are the Annunziata, many other borgos of with its Madonna del Rosario Liguria, it sprawls thin and by A.M. Maragliano, and the straight along the coast parish of San Nicolò di Bari, and the seafront with its Renaissance. The Marina, narrow caruggi. Why did between the promenade people of Liguria in the and the shipyards dates Middle Ages live in such from the nineteenth century. narrow roads? Just think Walking through the centre of the dangers of those we meet some wonderful times: saracen pirates, palaces which date from German mercenaries, the Middle Ages and the belligerent feudal lords. In XVIII century, the most narrow roads like labyrinths, important of them is Leale- it was simpler to defend Franchelli palace, it dates and to confuse the enemy. from the XVIII century, it Then there is the Borgo has beautiful painted a 9 Nuovo that dates from the fresco rooms, a rich library, Discovering PIETRA LIGURE Pietra Ligure

this great church dates from the XVIII century with two bell towers, it is rich in masterpieces. The "bronzo di San Nicolò" is loved by people of Pietra, it is a bell that in 1525 sounded to announce the end of a tremendous pestilence; it is on the bell tower of the Oratorio dei Bianchi.

Halloween of old times

It is not 10 completely true that the celtic Halloween celebrated the first of November, recently imported from America, is not linked at all with italian traditions about the dead and Saints: in a lot of places of Liguria on the second of November it was customary to go from house to house asking to collect offerings for the souls of the dead; chestnuts, sweet dried figs; in Pietra, in Loano and elsewhere children went from door to door, exactly like Charlie Brown and his friends.

● What is a “caruggio”? It is the essence itself, the soul place of Ligurian borgos. Take the caruggi away and Liguria would cease to exist. With no high, coloured houses, no vaulted buttresses, no cobbled streets, no shade and sunshine playing on the roofs... what would these towns become? Il Loanese & il Pietrese

Val Maremola On the mountains pinewood avenue leads family lords of Loano at of Pietra toward the Val Maremola, the beginning of the Among the mountains where history and art meet seventeenth century and it around Pietra which make in particular in the hosts a fresco of the its climate so mild, there sanctuary of Nostra Madonna painted in the are two fresh, woody, short Signora del Soccorso, at fifteenth century. A little valleys: Val Maremola and the feet of the Grosso higher, Tovo San Giacomo Valle di , with mountain. It has been and the scattered their heritage of history, art wanted by the people of borgos maintain the 11 and curiosities. Along Pietra and by the Doria features of the typical Val Maremola

borgos of Liguria, past industrial activity of untouched landscapes the valley. Around here, Ancient and ancient architectures those who love mountain while the valley becomes biking will find plenty of wars wild, among beautiful paths right for them. pathes and of ornamental Justenens, instead, was evergreens (used by the place for justice. Once An episode of florists) several cultivations. a month the mayor of Giustenice history revives The road that twists and Pietra Ligure climbed to every year in July through turns towards Isallo, a San Lorenzo, a Giustenice the costume remembrance small Magliolo borgo borgo in the namesake of the battle of 1448 surrounded by woods valley, to judge and to pass between the troops of the which climb to the sentences; in the Piazza Genoa Republic and the Melogno ridge, where del Costino, in front of the ones of the Marquis around 1750 an iron mine municipality, there still is Giovanni del Carretto, the was installed. Today there the stone seat for the lord of the place, whose are the ruins to testify the mayor. In reality it is not castle was besieged and exactly a throne destroyed. 12 After the "battle", a "medieval" dinner with a historical menu and a football match in the Florentine style, close the historical day.

● A stony remnant of an ancient castle, the stone of an oil-press, the nets unfolded to gather the ripe olives. This is the Liguria of dales, where the sea is a large strip projected on the horizon, half-screened by the green olive-trees and holm oaks, with the scent of salt carried by the hot sirocco wind Farigliano Niella Belbo Bonvicino

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tura Lencisa T. S Il Loanese & il Pietrese P.ta Martin 1001 S.Carlo 2 di Cese 8. Carpenara Autostrade - Motorways cia Mad. del Gazzo Autoroutes - Autobahnen Acquasanta Strade Principali - Main Roads

VOLTRI 4.7 Routes Principales - Hauptstraßen PEGLI Strade Provinciali - Provincial Roads 3.7 Sestri Prà Ponente Routes Départementales - Provinzstraßen Pegli Strade Comunali - Secondary Roads Routes Communales - Nebenstraßen Strade in costruzione - Streets in construction Routes en construction - Im Bau befindliche Straßen

Ferrovie - Railway Chemins de Fer - Eisenbahnlinen

5.7 Distanze Chilometriche - Distance in kilometres Distances kilométriques - Kilometerentfernung Gallerie, Valichi - Tunnels, Mountain Passes Tunnels, Cols - Tunnels und Pässe Confine della Provincia di Savona - Borders Frontière - Provinzgrenze Parchi e Aree Protette - Parks and Protected Areas Parcs et Zones Protegées Naturparks und Naturschutzgebiete Torrenti - Streams Torrents - Strömen

Castelli, Torri, Santuari - Castles, Towers, Sanctuaries Châteaux, Tours, Sanctuaires Schlösser, Türme, Wallfahrtskirchen

Rifugi, Grotte - Refuges, Grottoes Refuges, Grottes - Berghütten, Höhlen

Aeroporti, Porti e Porti Turistici Airports, Ports and Marinas Aéroports, Ports et Ports de plaisance Flughäfen, Häfen und Touristische Häfen

Liguria around and about

IL SAVONESE & IL VARAZZINO IL FINALESE ALASSIO & LE BAIE DEL SOLE

The caruggi of Varazze The maritime republic of Noli Albenga's historic centre and Celle An ancient borgo, A free Commune, a diocese of note, a Two ancient surrounded by rich city; Medieval Ligurian seaside walls and Albenga, heir to the villages with watched over by Roman alleyways running high towers, Albingaunum, has parallel to the proud of the left behind a beach and tall, independence priceless artistic narrow houses which it won legacy. The with painted during the first cathedral of San facades. The stone vaults of the crusade and maintained for the Michele, the baptistery with its caruggi and palm-lined promenade following 700 years. Porticoes, Byzantine mosaics, tiny Piazza dei encapsulate all the colours, sounds centuries-old lanes and a beach Leoni and the towers built by local and perfumes of Mediterranean where local fishermen gather every families make Albenga one of Liguria. morning to sell last night's catch, northern 's most important fresh from the sea. Medieval towns The ceramics Varigotti, Mediterranean borgo Seasonal delights from the Piana of Albisola Low-built Not just olive oil and wine from the A world-famous, painted houses hillside terraces: from Roman times centuries-old art which line the to the third millennium, the Piana di form, with beach among Albenga, Liguria's only traditional patterns and colours gardens and lowland area, has passed down the generations. Vases, lemon trees: been providing fruit, ornaments, tiles, statuettes, plates, here the vegetables and nativity figurines: Albisola has been a architecture is seasonal delicacies for European capital of ceramics since southern the tables of Ligurians the 1400s. Mediterranean in style, evoking the and visitors alike. eternal geographical and cultural Farinata from Savona ties which unite the two shores of Alassio's “budello” and wines from Quiliano Mare Nostrum. The budello or caruggio is the narrow They come from the southern road which crosses the centre of Mediterranean, but have many fans The Altopiano delle Manie Alassio, the bustling, thriving heart in Liguria: chickpeas, essential Untainted nature and real evidence and thoroughfare of this elegant ingredients in farinata and panissa, a of Roman town, the grand dame of tourism culinary delight in Liguria and history lie along the Riviera di Ponente. The Savona. A slice of fainâ and a glass waiting to be ancient road is hemmed in between of Granaccia or Buzzetto, ancient and discovered on the Riviera's finest noble country wines, and the holiday this verdant beach and the goes on. upland plateau, Muretto, a wall carved out by decorated and deep valleys and caves. Sports signed by famous lovers from all over Europe flock to names from the its limestone rocks for free climbing spheres of art, and hang-gliding over Finale down showbusiness and towards the sea. sport from the 1950s onwards. The rivers of the Beigua Mushrooming Castelvecchio di Rocca Borbena Cool waters, woods filled with foliage A 13th century borgo surrounded by and birdsong, lakes where you can in Val walls and low porticoes, whose most swim alongside trout in the summer Bormida famous daughter rests eternally in sun, abandoned watermills. The genuine, Lucca cathedral, immortalised in The semi-deserted valleys around traditional sculpture by Jacopo della Quercia. Mount Beigua are pleasures of A castle now protected by Liguria's mountain cuisine, “poor” dominates the the Beigua yet deliciously tasty, a plethora of steep hill around Regional Nature porcini mushrooms, chestnuts, which this village Park, helping keep vegetable and game pies, made with of stone houses the natural ingredients which grow wild in the and layered environment intact. higher inland areas, flourishing in terraces winds the beech and chestnut woods. itself precariously. The sea is a mirage from here. Loano

te, a Loano ei City of Princes the beach, a mild climate, with no interruption, till al Loano, as well as Pietra, the earth’s fertility. 1737, when it was sold has an ancient, noble A city of Roman origin, in to the Savoias. history, which led it from the Middle Ages Loano The Dorias were capital of a small was the see of Albenga munificent and generous iana principality to an bishops, was later handed lords who embellished he outstanding seaside to the Doria family in Loano with monuments mes resort, thanks to the 1263 and remained and art works. a di 18 beauties that nature under the rule of this The Roman age left us bestowed on it: the sea, influential family, almost the Pontasso, a stone

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like the one of by the charming ruins of Tic tac, Charlemagne, the Castle and of the it is just an church dating from the XIV cloc, askew century obviously cucù stone. dedicated to San Michele. After having In reality, hereabouts life The most ruled, condemned or was already present a curious curiosity of the acquitted, the mayor of long time before mayors Val Maremola is in Pietra was invited for and castles. Infact, on the Bardino Nuovo, a borgo lunch by the villagers: in Varé promontory, that of Tovo San Giacomo, the valley of the Giustenice separates the Val where there is a river, olives and grapevines Maremola from the Val di museum, may be the are still cultivated, and in Giustenice, ruins of Roman only one in Italy, the council hall some graves have been found. dedicated to tower stone measures from clocks. Since 1860 the 1606 for wine and oil are Bergallo family, has still preserved. On the worked in monumental other side of the valley, the watchmaking and this San Michele borgo towers museum is the curious 13 on a dizzy top, dominated evidence of this artistic passion: watches and machineries, of every age and style, built to ● Saint Augustin used to say tell time, decorated and WORTH VISITING: that he knew what is time, but colored to sweeten to was not able to explain it: the people the unavoidable The Museum of the Bergallo family can certainly passing of time. Tower Clock saythey are able to measure it In Bardino Nuovo. Il Loanese & il Pietrese

bridge, now buried along Close to Palazzo Doria, S. Giovanni Battista has a the Roman street which we find the XVII century twelve-side shape and is runs to the west of the Palazzo del Comandante, enriched with paintings by city, and a II century with its beautifully ornated Genoese masters and a mosaic floor, today in the façade. Nor can we late XIX century iron main hall of Palazzo Doria, neglect another Doria dome, strenghtened with the elegant city palace building, the Castle, built an antiseismic structure. built in 1578, with in the XVII century, which We are not less indebted balcons, loggias, a walled today is a gorgeous XVIII to the Doria family for the garden and a 1608 century villa plunged in a two great XVII century pentagonal tower which park looking over the sea. convents: S. Agostino, in was erected against the All around it, Borgo the very heart of the city, pirates. Castello is the mediaeval and the Monte Carmelo walled heart of the city. monastery on a panoramic In the linear borgo hill, both of which are lying parallel to the rich in art works. On coast and visible from Monte Carmelo, the the sea, the XVII Dorias built their century parish tombs till 19 church of 1793.

● Look at Loano with your nose upwards: the fine, multi- coloured façades and windows looking over its caruggi are little art masterpieces. They create a perfect match with the coloured cheerfulness of open beach umbrellas Loano

A remnant of and 24th November 1795. beach is lined by the Savoia rule over It was the first battle in the beautiful sea walk and the city is the long campaign which was shadowed by palm trees Clock Tower, to give Napoleon power on which the sun shines in erected in and glory, and although summer and in winter. 1774 on the the fight took place rather The beach life offers many Pastorino on the surrounding hills opportunities for fun and Gate to than in Loano itself, the sport: swimming, surf, celebrate inhabitants are proud to aquagym, baby club, not Vittorio recollect this old, to mention the evening Amedeo III. We can meet important episode of their parties, the concerts, the the tower if, leaving the history: after all, the name discos, the barbecues in city centre, of the city is inscribed on the open air. And to sea we walk to the sea. the Arc de Triomphe, dogs, Loano holds out a But the most important in Paris... modern, well-equipped date with history for Loano tourist harbour. was the battle the French ...and fun Those who leave the sea revolutionary army fought, Today, Loano is one of the behind themselves 20 and won, with the Austrian liveliest seaside resorts in bearing the taste of salt and Savoia armies on 23th the Riviera. Its long, sandy on their skin can stroll

Discovering LOANO Il Loanese & il Pietrese around in the intricacy of in the Monte Carmo carrugi north of the sea charming or the sky walk, in the historic small shops, over Loano center, or go shopping looking Let’s forget cars, of for the which modern The Madonna agricultural tourists sometimes on the products which are make an improper shoulders still cultivated in the use, just put on a country around the city. good, solid pair of shoes, On July the 2th, There were many and, with a rucksack on in honour of the vegetable and fruit our shoulders, climb up Madonna del Rosario, gardens in the plain of some green, windy the members of Nimbalto stream, just mountains. Such as Monte brotherhoods bring the around old Loano. Carmo, 1389 metres of Cross and the statue of Mary, covered with gold and But still today, no matter if rocks and sparse woods enthroned, in procession. holiday houses have only one step far from the And the night before, a spread all about, the fertile sky over Loano: a devoted wake of the earth of the plain brings mountain which offers one Virgin’s statue is organized. forth tasteful vegetables of the most enchanting 21 and fruits. panoramas in Liguria. Boissano

Go, leave the cheerful If you have bumped Buizan: bustling of the into a pure-aired day prufümmu crowded beaches (winter and spring behind you and are better seasons de zærmi ascend to the sky, than summer), you passing by the can take in a single stony houses of look a great part Boissano: scent of olive Carpe up the Val of , trees. Varatella from Genoa to the You only have to leave provincial route, Alpi Marittime and Loano and direct yourselves to the Giogo di Monte Rosa, from inland, to pass by the Toirano (800 m); here, the Piedmont plain to the highway, and here is get off your cars and start Lombardy Alps and Boissano, a rural borgo with walking up an easy path, Adamello, the entire its scattered small groups a section of the Alta Via of with the long, of houses. The names of the , which, in no grey outline of Corsica hamlets, Pogli, Mogli, more than 2 hours, floating in the deep blue Gandolfi, Berruti, are those leads you to the great and the indented Cote of the families that are 22 cross on the summit of d’Azur at the farthest native of this area. Almost Monte Carmo. occidental extremity. all of them still live in their little domains. Many houses in Boissano do not have tiled roofs: the roof-terraces were used to collect rainwater. In the parish church, dedicated to Mary Magdalene, there is a wooden statue of Saint Mary attributed to Maragliano. The City Hall, also known as “Ca’ di Gatti”, rises imposingly at the centre of the village.

● The sunny, arid top of Monte Carmo offers a wonderful point of view on the Riviera and the sea, beyond which, now and then, the gray outline of Corsica appears, wrapped in the mist, half-way between the Not-Found-Island and the Island-Which-Does Not Exist Il Loanese & il Pietrese

Borghetto S. Spirito Two thousand years of chose the cape of Borghetto goddesses, now in the tourism as a shelter for his idle garden of the XIX century If Toirano caves were the rests. We do not dispose Castle Borelli, just on the first “Ligurian borgo” of the of a great amount of details cape, among the pine Riviera, we can say that about him, but are informed trees. There is no saying the first tourist to build a that he probably had a that Callinicus’ choice was holiday house around here villa whose remnants a shrewd one: a position was a Roman citizen, one consist of a small altar, slightly elevated, a few 23 P. Didius Callinicus, who dedicated to the Matron steps away from the sea. Toirano

At his age, there may have the walls as well as two not been seaside resorts, towers and the south the mediaeval borgo, gate, which was rebuilt restaurants, but the during the baroque age. climate was good, the Surrounding the modern view delightful... Borghetto city, olive tree groves and was born after 1260 greenhouses full of fruits around the Santo Spirito announce that the fertile in history, or Hospital as an Albenga plain of Albenga is near by. prehistory, live. bridgehead established in Under modern the Finale territory; its TOIRANO: THE eyes, they were historic centre retains GREAT GRAND- queer people, who its original rectangular FATHERS’ HOUSE enjoyed throwing shape and some We could even more clay balls against sections of properly define it the house the walls. But what of grandfathers’ great if a remote grandfathers: in fact, here, descendant should in the caves which dig up judge us out of our the hills behind Loano, did predilection for the most ancient Ligurians kicking a football?

● The entrance gate to the historic centre of Borghetto Santo Spirito is not closed at nightfall to protect the inhabitants from the pirates' attacks, but welcomes the tourists who go sipping their drinks around the small square Il Loanese & il Pietrese

In these deep hollows, there not believe these devilish are as many as 50 caves: stories: the visit of the 1280 metres of underground Bàsura takes one hour tunnels, dug by the action and a half, passing of water on limestone. through the bears’ Toirano caves are a cemetery, covered with wonder of nature, one of bones of Ursus spelaeus the ten most beautiful (the bear of the caves); the caves in Italy. The most gallery of prints, left by the famous one is the Grotta nails of bears and the feet della Bàsura: the bàsuras of men (Neanderthal?) were the witches, who, as who, carrying torches and is well known, lived in spears with them, hunted undergound holes the wild beasts; and the connected to hell and puzzling room of the defended by spellbinding- misteries, where we find eyed ocellatae lizards (they the clay balls thrown on are the biggest lizards in the walls by our unknown Europe, 60 centimetres ancestors for some social 25 long). Modern people do or religious reasons

● The first apartment block, the first hotel in Liguria were the Toirano Caves, a dark mineral world, a hunting place and prayer sanctuary for our unknown forefathers Toirano

which we ignore. is the patron saint of eye Toirano was the see of An artificial passage links illnesses. Albenga bishops. the Bàsura to santa The structure of the borgo Lucia caves: the A land of oil, has not changed since the lower cave is a wine and paper Middle Ages: Toracco is triumph of From the XIII the oldest part of the town, subterranean century on, this with its high buildings and nature, with was the wealth of small lanes. Under the wonderful the old borgo of porticoes, small shops open stalactites and Toirano. Till before the their windows; just a little stalagmites, modern era of tourism farther, the entrance of the whereas, in the upper cave, appeared. Toirano, like ancient parish church, close we can admire a sanctuary many other towns in the sculpted in the stone, with zone, has Roman origins. the front dropping sheer Later, in the early Middle over the valley and a Ages, it became a fortress beautiful panorama. on the frontier between Behind the altar, a Longobards and 26 miraculous Byzantians; thereafter well: Lucy

The route of oil It is a tasteful and inebriating route, well marked and as winding as a mountain bike race. It runs along the valleys of the Riviera, silvered with olive trees and green with fat grapes of Pigato and Vermentino wines. There, you can see olive trees clutched to stone walls, which must be looked at as masterpieces of peasant engineering and vineyards made of few ranges of grape-vines and supported by wooden poles. It is a way through Ligurian civilization and its poor but healthy and scented cooking. Il Loanese & il Pietrese

to the XVII disputed the possession century of the land to Genoa. The feast church We spoke of oil, wine of gumbi dedicated to and paper: Toirano was S. Martin, an industrial centre of and the XIV some importance. Today, Between July and century tower, it is up to the August, in Toirano, people the sole to Ethnographical Museum, celebrate the oil with one of survive among with its nine sections, to the most sincere and the towers of the city keep alive the recollection attended popular festivals in Liguria: the festival of walls; there is also a of these traditional gumbi, a term which, in the beautiful XII century stone activities and of men and local dialect, means olive- bridge that crosses the women who practised press. It is a festival for stream. Ah do not forget them. Toirano natives, of course, to have a look at the but tourists are welcome. building of the rulers: the To tell the truth, many a Bishop’s Palace and the WORTH VISITING: family from southern Italy Palace of the Marquises comes to Toirano to take Del Carretto, the rulers of Ethnographical Museum of part in gumbi, to sign an 27 Finale, who, before 1385, the Val Varatella in Toirano ideal friendship pact between the different Italian oil lands. What do people do, during the festival? They gather in the cellars and oil mills to taste the farinata, the panizza, the apple sweets and to drink the delicious local wine.

● In the caruggi of Toirano, the "gumbi", the olive presses, work to produce olive oil, which is a first-class, healthy ingredient of the Mediterranean diet Balestrino

THE STRONGHOLD who, till the XVIII century, later, won the battle of OF BALESTRINO governed Finale and other Loano; later, the castle In a sideways dale of the scattered towns. Like was restored. Varatella River, on a hill Loano, Balestrino never It is said that, out of an old which dominates the belonged to the republic privilege, those who Borgo of Balestrino, this of Genoa, although the grasped its gratings were castle was built, partly small borough was freed from any criminal ruler’s palace, partly encircled by the Genoese charge; this may be the stronghold. Its owners territory: it was a origin of the Italian game were the marquises “concentric state”. “Liberi tutti” (similar to Del Carretto, The castle and the town of English hide and seek) Balestrino were occupied that all Italian people and sacked in 1795 by played when they were the French revolutionary children. Now the old troops who, a year borgo, which grew grape- like on the slopes of

28 Il Loanese & il Pietrese

Walking on the the castle hill, has been back life to the old houses mountains: abandoned because of made of stone and the path of the risk of landslips, and a wooden beams. A project “Terre Alte” new borgo has been rebuil financed by the Liguria a little farther. It is not Region, by the The path of Terre possible to walk along the Municipality and by private Alte leads the trekking fans lanes of the old borgo, donors, perhaps even by from Toirano to the Colle del which is unsafe and the European Union, will Melogno (1028 m) passing fenced. It can only be restore about 350 by the shelter Pian delle looked at from the buildings. It will again be Bosse (841 m) in the upper cobbled streets that cross possible to live in this Val Nimbalto and flying over it; and this vision is neighbourhood of small the Val Maremola. On the magical and painful at the squares and alleys: a way summit of Melogno, the path gets to the Alta Via dei same time. Do not miss it. of life that, despite all Monti Liguri, which is the Also because the times of modern comforts, will "highway" of the mountains desolation and neglect closely resemble that of of Liguria and the state may soon be over for this the original inhabitants of route connecting Finale to ancient village: modern Balestrino at the time the upper Val Bormida. soil consolidation of the marquises 29 The path is divided into techniques may bring Del Carretto. three stages: the tour Toirano-Balestrino-Toirano which will take three hours and a half to be completed; the stage Toirano-Pian delle Bosse, a four-hour-and-a- half walk; the tour Pian delle Bosse-Melogno, which can be achieved in six ● hours. You know, Liguria is The borgo of Balestrino, really a land made of sea which was human community, houses, churches, shops, will be and mountains. If you are brought to life again thanks to a not yet tired and the project of consolidation of soil mountain landscape is your and buildings passion, why do not walk on from Colle del Melogno along the Alta Via for three hours, in the deep silence of the woods of upper Val Bormida ridge? Val Varatella

al Varatella It can seem incredibleV that mountains is mainly founded hinterland mountains, at such a short distance on that: the indescribable opening their way among from an animated, hot, vivid, contrast between the pine trees and the songs blue coast full of sounds, beaches, the narrow coastal of cicadas. Varatella valley voices, music, there are plain, endlessly sparkling is one of the most sloping mountains, covered with life, and the highlands inaccessible and enchanting with woods, deprived of which seem to live out of valleys in Liguria, narrow, men’s presence and time and history. But, in fact, sloping, panoramic as can manufacts, where the air is they are so near that a few be expected from a Ligurian 30 full of a deep silence which turns on the provincial valley, which, from the rocky the wind or the rare flights route are sufficient to get limestone summits, falls onto of birds can hardly break. to them. It is charming to the sea with an infinite series The primitive, wild look at the sea from above, of meadows, ravines, pine enchantement of Ligurian from the paths cutting the trees and olive trees.

Judging by the today’s The Benedictine monastery of conditions of A monastery conditions, it is difficult to San Pietro di Varatella, 890 m. the region by dedicated to become aware of the over Toirano, was founded in supporting its San Pietro importance the monastery the IX century by the Emperor agricultural and had for six hundred years. Charles the Great, although the industrial development, Rather, a stronger impact legend says that Saint Peter introducing the cultivation of on visitors is made by the and his family sojourned here olive trees and vineyards to silent environment, enriched on their way from Palestine to Liguria and building flour and with beautiful views on sunny and built the first oil mills. The Abbey of San days. Melancholy prevails church in Liguria. The monks Pietro in Varatella is still a upon the rest of the scene of San Pietro acquired a great destination for hikers and when the south-east wind power, had estates scattered pilgrims alike: each year a blows and the coast below between Albenga and the procession climbs up from disappears in the fog. Langhe and improved life Toirano on the first of May.