Acadia Mt Desert Island, Samuel E. Lux

ailclosures.htm . The Harbor Walk in road. The route is Beehive → The Bar Harbor and the walk along Otter Bowl → Halfway mountain → Gor- Hiking Point (Ocean trail) are both very ham mountain (Cadillac Cliffs side beautiful and very easy. Another trail) → Ocean trail back to the park- The hiking in Acadia is, to my mind, short, easy hike is to Beech Cliffs from ing lot. Exciting climbing (up!) on the best in America. The approxi- the top of Beech mountain. road. Only Beehive, beautiful views from Bee- mately 125 miles of trails are beauti- 0.3 mile and great views. Kids also hive and Gorham, beautiful, easy fully marked and maintained. Many love the short walk to the rocky coast walk back along classic Maine coast. have granite steps, or iron ladders or and myriad tide pools on the Won- This route is the most scenery for the railings to help negotiate difficult/ derland trail. Couch potatoes can least work. About 4-5 miles. Beehive dangerous spots. They range from flat drive to the top of Cadillac mountain, alone is only about 1 mile and is a to straight up. And you get the best the highest point in the park. Views great short hike. The front of Beehive views with the least work of any trail are worth it. is steep and not for those afraid of system anywhere. Beehive to Gorham heights (Fig. 1), though the point mountain and Cadillac Cliffs, then Excellent Circle Hikes walk back along shore (Ocean trail), Beehive-Gorham-Ocean Drive Precipice (appropriately named), and Park at Sand Beach on the Park Loop the Jordan Cliffs trail followed by a Road. Do this hike early in the day walk back down South Ridge of Pe- before the crowds arrive. It is very nobscot mountain trail are my favor- popular. The trail starts across the ites, but there are dozens of great ones, at least 50 overall. For kids over 6 to 7 years the Beehive trail is excit- ing (quite precipitous) with amazing views, but not too much work. For older kids and adults who are not afraid of heights, Precipice is the ul- timate. Unfortunately, both Precipice and Jordan Cliffs are usually closed until early to mid-August due to nesting pere- grine falcons. You can check when Fig. 1. View of Sand Beach from Fig. 2. Iron ladders and handholds aid ascent these and other trails will open at on the Beehive and other steep trails www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/tr part way up Beehive trail

1 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

(Fig. 4). The return trip along the Ocean Trail is also beautiful (Fig. 5).

Precipice The Precipice trail is on the steep east face of Champlain mountain. Park at the Precipice lot on the Park Loop Road. The route is Precipice → Bear

Fig. 7. Open views and easy descent Fig. 3. Grate over small crevasse along Jordan Ridge Trail on Beehive trail

Fig. 6. View of Frenchman’s Bay from top of Precipice trail

Brook trail → East Face trail. Preci- pice is the most vertiginous and diffi- cult trail. It is like Beehive but more Fig. 8. Bubble Rock on top of the Fig. 4. View from Gorham South Bubble mountain mountain trail than twice as high (1,100 ft). The views are extraordinary (Fig. 6). It is definitely not for those afraid of of the Bubble and Bubble Rock → heights, but it is great fun. About 2-3 come down the back. Very short hike. miles. Great view of Jordan Pond. Very steep exciting first section. The timid and Jordan Cliffs-Penobscot Mountain young children can go up the back of the Bubble, directly from the parking Park at the Jordan Pond restaurant off lot. About 1 mile. The rock (Fig. 8) is a the Park Loop Road. The route is Jor- glacial remnant. dan Cliffs → Penobscot mountain summit → Jordan Ridge trail. Diffi- Acadia Mountain cult, exciting first half on the Jordan This is a very popular hike on the Fig. 5. Classic Maine coast Cliffs trail, comparable to Beehive or western side of the island that has along the Ocean Trail Precipice, with narrow ridges, log great views of Somes Sound, the only bridges over crevasses and iron rung shown is the most vertiginous point fiord in the Americas. The route com- ladders and handholds. Easy descent on the trail. The whole trail isn’t like bines a moderate hike up Acadia with super 270 degree views (Fig. 7) this and is perfectly safe. Iron ladders mountain with a steep descent to Man along the rocky, open south ridge of and handholds are built into the rocks O’War Brook Valley, where 18th cen- Penobscot mountain (Jordan Ridge where needed to aid ascent (Fig. 2) tury ships moored to obtain fresh wa- trail). About 5 miles. and, where needed, grates cover cre- ter from the stream that cascades into vasses (Fig. 3). Once you get to the The Bubbles the ocean there, followed by a gentle top the short detour to The Bowl (a return walk. Park at the Acadia Park at Bubbles parking on the Park small glacial lake) is definitely mountain lot on Rte 102. The route is Loop Road. The route is Jordan Carry worthwhile, and I am a big proponent the Acadia mountain trail → return Trail south from the parking lot → of also hiking Gorham mountain, on fire road (Man O’War Brook Val- front face of the South Bubble → top which isn’t hard and has great views ley) or, for a longer hike, East Face

2 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Trail of St Sauveur mountain → St Books Sauveur Cliffs (go all the way to Val- These and many other hikes are fully ley Peak) → retrace steps to St described in a book called A Walk in Sauveur Peak → Trail back to Acadia the Park: Acadia’s Hiking Guide by parking lot. The shorter route is about Thomas A. St Germain that is avail-

2 miles. able at the National Park headquar- ters off Route 3 on the way from the top of the island to Bar Harbor. Other Fig 10. Cadillac Mtn summit books to consider (many also avail- able at Park Headquarters or from Cadillac Mountain Amazon) include: Acadia: The Com- Cadillac Mtn (1532 ft) is the highest in plete Guide: Mt. Desert Island & Acadia and the highest National Park by James Kaiser (Desti- mountain on the coast north of Rio de nation Press); Hiking Acadia National Janeiro. The summit is flat and easy Park by Dolores Kong and Dan Ring for even 2 to 3 year old children to (Falcon Press); and Discover Acadia Fig 9. Rock tunnel on Giant Slide trail negotiate, and there is a road to the National Park, 2nd ed: AMC Guide to top and adequate parking. The view the Best Hiking, Biking, and Paddling Giant Slide-Sargent Mountain (Fig. 10) is fantastic. (AMC Discover Series) by Jerry This is a strenuous but wonderfully Beech Mountain Monkman and Marcy Monkman varied hike up the west side of Sar- (Appalachian Mountain Club Books) Beech Mtn, like Cadillac, has a road gent Mtn, the second largest in the that leads most of the way to the park. Park along Rte 198 near the be- Maps summit, so that it is accessible for ginning of Sargent Drive and follow a Hiking, Biking, and Paddling Map to younger children. Drive to the end of private dirt road for 0.4 mi to the be- Acadia National Park (printed on tough Beech Hill Rd (off Pretty Marsh Rd ginng of the trail. The first part of the Tyvec, not paper) from the Appala- (Rte 102) just south of Somesville on hike follows a brook with beautiful chian Mountain Club Books is a good the western side of the island). Park little falls and water tumbling over map of the park. Many others are and hike a short distance to the east to and around giant boulders. The trail available at Park Headquarters reach the Beech Mtn cliffs and great goes through caves (Fig 9) and over views. log bridges and is great fun. The hike then follows the Grandgent trail, Biking which rises steeply up the side of Sar- gent Mts, with beautiful views to the The biking in Acadia National Park is west. From the top the views continue fabulous. There are more than 50 as you return along the open north miles of fine gravel biking trails (Fig. ridge of Sargent on the Northwest 12) that wind among the lakes and Trail (previously North Ridge Trail), mountains, with fabulous views which connects to Giant Slide trail. (Fig.13) and some exciting ups and Fig. 11. Wonderland Trail end downs. These were originally carriage Hikes for Children trails built at great expense by John D. Wonderland Trail Rockefeller. These trails are com- Relatively young children can pletely separate from the auto roads scramble up the back side of the This flat (1.4 mi roundtrip) trail be- and have their own rock bridges South Bubble, as noted above, but gins off Rte 102A at the very southern (Fig.14). You can bring bikes or rent in there are three other relatively short end of the western side of the island. Bar Harbor (closest to trails: Bar Har- out-and-back hikes that our young The wooded trail ends at a beautiful bor Bike Shop, 141 Cottage St, 288- grandchildren enjoy. ocean cove with wonderful rocks and tide pools for kids to explore (Fig. 11). 3886 or Acadia Bike Rentals, 48 Cot- tage St, 288-9605). Also SW Harbor

(Southwest Cycle, Rte 102, 244-5856).

3 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Eagle Lake Loop Park at Eagle Lake Parking lot (VERY popular) on Rte 233 (Eagle Lake Road). Go around lake to the right (easier climb). The signposts are: 6 → 9 → 8 → 7 → 6. Beautiful views of lake and mountains. 6 miles.

Jordan Pond-Bubble Pond Loop Fig. 15. Echo Lake beach Park at Jordan Pond house. The sign- Fig. 12. There are more than 50 miles of car- posts are: 16 → (cross road) → 17 → 7 riage trails, which are now used for biking → 8 → 10 → 14 → 15 → 16. 8.6 miles. Lovely vistas. Swimming

Hadlock Brook Loop For real ocean swimming for the Park at Brown mountain gatehouse hardy (and well insulated) we rec- off Rte 198. The signposts are: Parking ommend Sand Beach in the National → 18 (go left) → 13 → 12 → 19 → 18 Park (especially) or the beach at Seal → Parking. 3.9 miles. Level stretches, Harbor (both with water temp usu- steep grades, waterfall, great views. ally in lower 60s!). For freshwater Popular. swimming (much warmer, where lo- Can add Amphitheater Loop to cals swim) go to Echo Lake (Fig. 15) end of ride to extend it by 5 miles. or Long Pond. Both have gorgeous Fig. 13. One of many beautiful vistas along the Pretty, solitary forest ride. Not heavily views and Echo Lake has a very nice, carriage trails travelled. At signpost 19 above turn big beach and a lifeguard. Long Pond left → 20 → 21 → 22 → 20 → 19 → 18 has a floating raft in deeper water for → Parking. diving. Both are best on really hot days. Echo Lake beach is at the south- Around Sargent Mountain Loop ern end of the lake. It is reached via a Park at Parkman mountain lot on Rte signed Natl Park road off Route 102 198 or at Jordan Pond House. From on the way to Southwest Harbor. Parkman the signposts are: Parking → 13 (go left) → 12 (go left) → 10 → 14 → 21 → 20 → 19 → 12 → 13 → Canoeing Parking. Long (11.1 miles), challeng- ing, great views, waterfall, level Long Pond (Fig. 16) (embark canoes Fig. 14. The carriage trails are enhanced by stretches, lakeside, has everything. and kayaks at National Park Canoe many beautiful bridges, such as this one, Center on Pretty Marsh Rd), Echo seen from below that spans a stream Books Lake (embark at Ike’s Point off Route Even if you rent bring a bike rack if Two good books describing the car- 102 to Southwest Harbor and Eagle you’ve got one (can rent racks) to riage roads and biking trails are Bik- transport bikes from shop to trail. ing on (A Pocket Note, however, that the Park runs a Guide) by Audrey Minutolo (Down free bus service (Island Explorer East Books); and A Pocket Guide to Buses). The buses have bike racks on Carriage Roads of Acadia National Park the front and back. They go all over (Pocket Guide) by Diana Abrell (Down the island (except near our house) East Books). and are a great service. Popular bike circle routes: Fig. 16. Canoeing on Long Pond

4 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Lake (embark just off Rte 233/Eagle drive to the top of Cadillac Mtn (esp. Lake Rd) are all great and beautiful on a sunny, clear, dry day or at sun- spots for canoeing. You can rent ca- Rock set). A stop at the Jordan Pond Res- noes, kayaks (and car carriers) at the taurant (276-3316) for their famous National Park Canoe Center or at any hot popovers and real lemonade is of the outfitters in Bar Harbor (e.g., Climbing also recommended, as noted above, Acadia Bike and Canoe, 48 Cottage St, but it is often VERY crowded. Come 288-9605). at off hours (mid-morning or mid- after-noon). The view from the lawn (Fig. 19) is outstanding. I prefer to Sea drive the Park Road early in the morning before traffic picks up. It’s also magical on a foggy morning, Kayaking though the views are less grand. An- other must drive is Sargent Drive along Somes Sound, going toward Northeast Harbor. The ultra wealthy live in Northeast Harbor and Seal Harbor (Martha Stewart, the Rocke- fellers, the Fords, etc.). The homes from Sargent Drive around to Seal Harbor are gorgeous—esp. the ones on the roads winding up the hill be- Fig. 17. Sea kayaks are large and stable hind Seal Harbor. Bass Harbor Light This is fun, easy to learn and safe. Sea (Fig. 20) is famous and pretty and kayaks are bigger than std kayaks Fig. 18. Climbers rappelling on Otter Cliffs worth seeing if you are down at that and much more stable. Learners are in end of the island (e.g., to eat at two person kayaks (Fig. 17). Begin- The outfitters above and others offer ners take guided trips out Somes rock-climbing lessons. Acadia Moun- Sound (recommended, gorgeous-the tain Guides Climbing School (198 only fiord in the Americas) and off Main St, Bar Harbor, 288-8186 or 1- Bartlett’s Landing, among others. 888-232-9559) is good. Also Atlantic There are numerous outfitters that Climbing School (26 Cottage St, Bar rent sea kayaks—two are in Bar Har- Harbor, 288-2521). Kids love this. bor on Cottage St (e.g., Acadia Out- They teach you how to rappel down doors, 288-2422 and Acadia Bike and cliffs and climb up them, using ropes. Beginner lessons are often at Otter Canoe, 288-9605) and there are several Fig. 19. View from Jordan Pond restaurant others in other towns (e.g., Aquaterra Cliffs (Fig. 18), the highest cliffs on across Jordan Pond to the Bubbles Adventures 288-0007, Acadia Park the North American coast, where the Sea Kayak Tours, 244-0577 and Na- view is amazing. Not that hard (my tional Park Sea Kayak Tours, 288- kids did it) and really fun. 3205). Driving

Everyone should drive the 22 mile Park Loop Road through the Na- tional Park. It is spectacular. Stop at Otter Cliffs (ignore Thunder Hole ex- cept on days with huge waves), and Fig. 20. Bass Harbor Lighthouse

5 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Thurston’s Lobster Pound). The har- eat lobster at the Islesford Dock Res- bor at Manset (Fig. 21) is also very taurant (244-7494) then come home pretty and prototypical New England. on the sunset ferry. Or the beautiful Sunset Cruise on the Islesford Ferry from Northeast Harbor (276-3717). The Lunchtime (11 am - 2:30 pm) cruise to Frenchboro by Island Cruises out of Bass Harbor (www.bassharborcruises.com) topped Fig. 23. Puffins by a lobster lunch at Lunt’s Dockside hp) Some companies also show you Deli (334-2922; famous for lobster puffins (Fig. 23) (e.g., Sea Bird rolls) is also highly recommended. Fig. 21. Lobster boats in Manset harbor Watcher, 800-BIRDS-94) or seals. You There is deep-sea fishing out of Bar are virtually guaranteed to see lots of Harbor (Downeast Windjammer, 288-

humpback whales. Remember to 4585) or SW Harbor (Custom Charters Other bring warm jackets and maybe even ‘Next Time’, 244-7044 or Mosako gloves. It’s always cold out in the Queen, 244-5385). Gulf of Maine, even on the hottest Boats can be rented from Mansell Activities day (sea temp only in 50’s). Boat Rentals (power boats (13’-19’) or sail boats (Cal 25’ –Cal 31’), with or Gardens Other Cruising, Sailing without lessons, 244-5625, www.mansellboatrentals.com). Pow- Thuya Gardens (Fig. 22) and Asticou and Deep Sea Fishing erboats can also be rented from Man- Azalea Gardens near Northeast Har- There are sailboat cruises out of Bar set Yacht Service (244-4040, bor are very lovely and worth a trip. Harbor. The best is on the Margaret www.mansetyachtservice.com). The Wildflower Gardens at Sieur de Todd, a 151 ft schooner, (Fig. 24) One can also take a day (or multi- Monts Springs, off Rte 3 at the Park (Downeast Windjammer, Bar Harbor day) trip on the Cat, a high speed Loop Road entrance, just south of the Inn Pier, 288-4585 or 288-2373, Ticket Jackson Laboratory are also very nice. catamaran ferry, from the Bay Ferries Good for a cloudy/foggy day Terminal, 121 Eden St (north on Rte 3 from Bar Harbor) to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, which is straight east, only 2 hrs and 45 min away (888-249-SAIL), etc., etc. Antiquing

If you come up Rte 1, along the shore above Portland, ME, there are dozens Fig. 24. The schooner Margaret Todd of antique shops, ranging from junk Fig. 22. Flowers at the lovely Thuya Garden office, 27 Main St). to exceedingly pricey, rare 18th cen- tury antiques. This route is much There are ferryboat rides to other slower than I-95, but much prettier. Whales and Puffins parts of Acadia Natl Park (e.g., to the Camden, ME is especially pretty and isolated Isle du Haut from Stoning- definitely worth a trip. For small an- Several cruises out of Bar Harbor at ton, ME aboard the mail boat, 207- tiques try the Big Chicken Barn, 1768 about noon daily to whaling spots in 367-5193). One can take the early eve- Bucksport Rd (Rte 3) 9 miles west of the Gulf of Maine. (Bar Harbor Whale ning ferry from Northeast Harbor to Ellsworth. Watch Co., 288-2386 for tickets. Little Cranberry Island (244-5582) and www.barharborwhales.com/default.p

6 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS The Bar Harbor Music Festival Glider and Sightseeing (www.barharbormusicfestival.org) Airplane Rides gives one live performance of a major opera at the Criterion Theatre in mid- You can take glider rides (207-667- July every year and offers many other SOAR) and sightseeing airplane rides filmed operas and live jazz and classi- (207-667-6527) out of Trenton Airport. cal music performances at various venues in the Bar Harbor area. The Mount Desert Summer Chorale (www.mountdesertsummerchorale.or Fig. 26. Pirate’s Cove Miniature Golf g/home.html) is an outstanding cho- rus of summer visitors and full-time waterfalls, caves, etc. residents (Fig. 27). It performs major (www.piratescove.net/location/7; classical choral works, usually with 288-2133). It has two excellent and orchestra, each year on the first or Wild Acadia Fun Park is another second Friday and Saturday in August. I sing with this group. Fig. 25. Kebo Valley golf course miniature golf course about halfway between the island and Ellsworth which is also good and has water Golf slides, a Go Kart track and a 45-ft The Kebo Valley Golf Club (Fig. 25) high aerial park and ropes course is a great old golf course near the lab (www.wildacadia.com; 207-667-2073). (eighth oldest course in the country (1896); Warren Harding’s favorite Movies course). It has great mountain views. Fig. 27. Mount Desert Summer Chorale The best place for first run movies the (288-5000, www.kebovalleyclub.com; Reel Pizza and Cinerama (schedule green fees $65-75). Need to call ahead at www.reelpizza.net; 288-3811) in Bar Repertory Theatre for a tee time. They also rent clubs Harbor, which serves decent pizza and, of course, carts. It’s a very nice Acadia Repertory Theatre (244-7260; with movies (you can sit in regular place to go for lunch even if you’re www.acadiarep.com) performs vari- movie seats with a table in front of not playing golf. The food is excellent ous well known plays and comedies you or on old couches). and you can sit out on the deck and almost every night in July and August take in the views. in the small theatre on Rte 102, near Music Somesville. Usually end the season There is a Driving Range: about half- with an Agatha Christie mystery. In- There is a strong music scene in the way between the island and Ells- timate. Quality is only so-so but it’s Bar Harbor area in the summer. The worth on Rte 3, and there are other cheap and good fun. There is also a Mt Desert Festival of Chamber Mu- less golf courses in NE Harbor and matinee kids theatre on Wed and Sat. SW Harbor. The one in NE Harbor is sic (www.mtdesertfestival.org) has a said to be quite good. series of weekly concerts from mid- July to mid-August. Museums Miniature Golf The Arcady Music Society Summer Seal Cove Auto Museum on Seal Festival runs from mid-July to late Cove Road in Seal Cove. I haven’t Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf (Fig. August and includes many outstand- been there but it is highly regarded 26) on Rte 3 between the entrance to ing artists. (www.sealcoveautomuseum.org). the island and Bar Harbor. This is the best. Excellent minigolf. Two courses,

7 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Wendell Gilley Museum (wood bistro cuisine, seafood. Closed Mon- carved birds) in Southwest Harbor days. www.machebistro.com (www.wendellgilleymuseum.org; Restaurants Town Hill Bistro (Town Hill, Rte 102, 244-7555). 288-1011) - Small (seats about 30) rus- Mt Desert Oceanarium (lobster List of most restaurants and menus at tic bistro with distinctive food. Rave hatchery, blue lobster, lobster stuff, www.barharbormenus.com" reviews (restaurant closed this year - 288-5005; www.theoceanarium.com) Fancy looking for a new place. But they do Abbe Museum (Wabanaki Indian ar- have takeout). tifacts. www.abbemuseum.org) All of these are excellent. Havana is Fathom (6 Summer St, Bar Harbor, the quality of a top Boston restaurant. 288-9664) - American gourmet, crea- Artist Workshops Havana (Bar Harbor, 318 Main St, tive food, fresh local ingredients. Di- 288-2822) – Cuban/American. Small verse, moderately priced wine list. Acadia Workshop Center, 566 band. Inventive cuisine, great wines www.fathombarharbor.com/ Seawall Rd, SW Harbor, 244-3020; (Wine Spectator’s Award of Excel- Xanthus (in Claremont Hotel, 22 Cla- www.acadiaworkshopcenter.com/Ind lence). Popular. Always excellent. The remont Rd, SW Harbor, 244-5036). ex.html. Five day artists workshops in Obama’s choice for dinner on their Elegant dining in a grand 1880s hotel different media. 2010 visit to Bar Harbor. We like the with contemporary food and fabulous back annex rather than the main views. Jackets requested but not re- Art Galleries room. quired. www.havanamaine.com/index_BH.h www.theclaremonthotel.com/dining Mt Desert St in Bar Harbor and espe- tml cially in Blue Hill, ME, which is a XYZ (Manset, end of Bennett Lane, beautiful town in its own right. If you Burning Tree (just north of Otter 244-5221) – Authentic Southern " go to Blue Hill don’t forget to travel Creek, 288-9331) – California gour- Mexican/Yucatan cuisine. Interesting south of town to the Blue Hill Revers- met, seafood, vegetarian. Top rated by restaurant. NY Times says one of the ing Falls on Rte 175. many. Closed Tuesdays. best of its kind in the country. www.barharbormenus.com/burningt www.xyzmaine.com/xyz.html; Playgrounds ree.PDF www.boston.com/travełexplorene/m Cafe This Way (Bar Harbor, 14½ Mt aine/articles/2006/09/06/finding_a_ There are children’s playgrounds in Desert St, 288-4483) – Down an al- true_taste_of_mexico_in_the_woods_ Bar Harbor (across from the YMCA) leyway off Mt Desert St. Popular. of_maine and in Southwest Harbor, but our American gourmet. Less expensive Red Sky (14 Clark Point Rd, South- grandchildren’s favorite is behind than some. www.cafethisway.com Emerson Elementary School (Fig. 27). west Harbor, 244-0476) White table Cleonice Bistro (192 Main, Ellsworth, The school is located at the corner cloth dining. Local and seasonal 664-7554) – Mediterranean-N. Afri- where Route 233 (Eagle Lake Road) products. Outstanding food. can. Tapas and meze. In a new loca- meets Route 3 (Mt Desert St) in Bar www.redskyrestaurant.com tion, not as nice as before but still a Harbor. Great slides and tire swing. favorite of ours - especially for lunch. Less Fancy The spicy Htipiti tapas and the grilled spiced lamb burger are great. Jordan Pond House (at Jordan Pond http://www.themainegrind.com on Park Loop Road; 276-3316). In the middle of the national park. Famous Fiddler’s Green (SW Harbor, 244- restaurant with views to die for. Stop 9416) – Fab views. American gourmet. after hiking for tea, lemonade (real), www.fiddlersgreenrestaurant.com popover, lobster or seafood stew and Fig. 27. Emerson School playground Mache Bistro (Bar Harbor, 321 Maine homemade strawberry ice cream. St (new location), 288-0447) - French Crowds can be horrendous so best in

8 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

mid-morning or mid-afternoon. Eat Some of the best BBQ in the area. Good food at great prices. on lawn. www.jordanpond.com. Take out only. Caters events. Dave www.kebovalleyclub.com/links-pub goes to BBQ contests and sometimes /menu/ McKay’s Public House (Bar Harbor, is gone for days to weeks at a time. 288-2002) Local and organic cuisine, Patty’s Irish Pub - (West Street Hotel, www.crazydavesbbq.com plus gourmet pub fare Bar Harbor) see above under Less www.mckayspublichouse.com/index Fancy Restaurants ! .php Breakfast Sips - In Southwest Harbor. See Fish House Grill (1 West Street, Bar 2 Cats - Fancy breakfasts with some above. Harbor, 288-3070). Good seafood on a imaginative stuff. Really great. Lovely pier in the harbor with super views, outdoor deck and bower. Two " especially on the covered pier on a friendly cats who are happy to join in. Lobster nice night. Extensive menu. (130 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, 288-2808; www.2catsbarharbor.com/intro.html) Thurston’s Lobster Pound (Steam- www.barharbormenus.com/fish_hou boat Wharf Rd, Bernard, 244-7600; se_grill_menu.pdf Cafe This Way (14½ Mt Desert St, www.thurstonslobster.com) is our Paddy’s Irish Pub (in West Street Ho- Bar Harbor, 288-4483). Get there by favorite. Loved by locals. Eat on cov- tel, 151 Main St, Bar Harbor, 207-801- 8:30 am. www.cafethisway.com ered dock (no mosquito’s) on the wa- 3786). Irish-American cuisine. Pub Sips (4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest ter overlooking a classic New Eng- atmosphere. New but reportedly Harbor, 244-4550) land harbor. Fab views. A quintessen- tial lobster pound. Also steamers, good food. Little Notch Café (downtown, SW lobster stew, crabcakes and some www.theweststreethotel.com/dine Harbor) - Great bread, outstanding grilled cheese and other non-fishy Lompoc Café and Brewpub (36 Ro- pastries and pizza. Opens 8 am. stuff for kids who don’t like the red dick St, Bar Harbor, 288-9392). Pub www.barharbormenus.com/littlenotc bugs. food with seasonal fish and locally h.PDF grown organic produce. Live music Abel’s Lobster Pound (13 Abel’s Jeannie’s Breakfast: Popular, plenty Fri & Sat, Open Mic Nite on Thurs. Lane — road to Northeast Harbor of food. Signature strawberry rhu- Bocce court. www.lompoccafe.com. from Somesville, on the right just be- barb fruit spread. (15 Cottage St; 288- yond Bar Harbor turn off; 276-5827). Sips (4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest 4166) - 6 am-1 pm daily Probably second after Thurston’s. Harbor, 244-4550). Restaurant/wine www.jeanniesbreakfast.com Beautiful setting in spruce grove bar. Interesting wines. Small plates overlooking the incomparable Somes (like tapas) with optional wine “sips” Lunch Sound. A bit fancier and pricier,. (2 oz), glasses (5 oz) or bottles. A Bar Harbor Inn (Downtown Bar More comfortable indoor seating. wine bar with fancy food. Live music. www.abelslobsterpound.com Run by the wine expert who owns Harbor on the wharf; 288-3351) Park Sawyer’s Specialties next door. Popu- in public lots near Inn or in Inn park- Beal’s Lobster Pound (end of Clark lar with locals. www.sipsmdi.com ing lot and walk around to ocean side Point Rd in SW Harbor, 244-7178; of hotel. Lunch on the Terrace next to www.bealslobster.com) Also on water Mainely Meats BBQ (15 Knox Road, the ocean under yellow umbrellas on and great views. Town Hill, in back of Atlantic Brew- nice days. Excellent food, A+ views Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound (just ing, also called Knox Road Grill, 288- of Porcupine Islands. Extremely civi- before you come onto the island. Very 9200). BBQ and brews. lized. Inside in the Reading Room in plain. No views. Some locals would www.atlanticbrewing.com/mainely- inclement weather. Opens 11:30 am. choose it. 667-2977; meat-bbq www.barharborinn.com/dining.html www.trentonbridgelobster.com), Crazy Dave’s BBQ. (479-9393) A Links Pub at the Kebo Valley Golf Lunt’s Dockside Deli (Frenchboro black smoker and white tent located Club (136 Eagle Lake Road, ~1 mile Island, famous for lobster rolls). Take across from the entrance to Marden’s west of Bar Harbor, 288-3000). Sit on morning (11 am - 2:30 pm) cruise on big box store on Rte 3 near Ellsworth. deck under umbrellas on nice day.

9 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Island Cruises boat out of Bass Har- 24 flavors of soft-serve and 20 varie- butcher counter (don’t miss getting bor (www.bassharborcruises.com) ties of hard ice cream and yoghurt. some). Prices on high side but quality Plus, pizzas, sandwiches, lobster rolls, excellent. Park BEHIND Sawyer’s Other Food etc. 360 Main Street, Southwest Har- (turn right at Carroll Drug on your bor, 244-9444; way into SW Harbor from the north Pizza "" www.barharbormenus.com/qside.PD and go around behind the market. Rosalie’s Pizza, Cottage St, Bar Har- F There’s a sign and you can come in bor (www.rosaliespizza.com; 288- the back door). 5666) and Little Notch Café, SW Homemade Pies www.sawyersmarket.com Harbor. Both are very good thin crust Islandbound Treats. Mary Musson pizza. Little Notch is very good (not Sawyer’s Specialties: Catty-corner and her three young daughters bake open Sundays) but Rosalie’s has great across the street from Sawyer’s Mkt 50 pies per day in the three ovens at sauce and is our favorite. in downtown Southwest Harbor. The their home: blueberry, strawberry best wine (by far) on the island and a rhubard or triple berry. The pies are very knowledgeable owner. Also Sandwiches " amazing and only $20. Pick them up at great cheeses/olives/ beer. Mother’s Kitchen, a tiny shack with her front door (a white ranch at 302 www.mdiwine.com great gourmet sandwiches just south Main St, SW Harbor, 244-9308, just of the EBS Hardware store on Rte 102 shy of the village), or down the street Beech Mtn Organic Farm and Farm in Town Hill. 288-4403; at Sawyers Grocery. Not to be missed. Stand: ~1.5 miles up Beech Mtn Rd http://www.motherskitchenfoods.co She’s no longer a secret though so on SW Harbor side. Heirloom toma- m come early. toes after ~Aug 15. (8a-5p, Tue/ http://ouracadia.com/blog/2013/07 Thurs/Sat, 244-5204) Bakery /28/maine-pie-entrepreneur-gains-bi www.coa.edu/htmłbeechhillfarm.ht m Little Notch Bakery (244-4043). gger-piece-of-a-market-locals-vacatio Amazing bread. Bakery on wharf at ners-love/ Rooster Bros: Ellsworth, Main St at Southwest Harbor (they sell fresh Bridge. Gourmet foods, bread and pastries just out of the oven eclectic kitchen cookware. Lots of 24 hours a day). Also buy at Little things you can’t find anywhere else. Notch Cafe in Southwest Harbor. (see Services Great browsing for foodies. above) As good or better than Clear www.roosterbrother.com; 800-866- Flour Bakery in Boston, where the Groceries & Wine 0054. Little Notch owner trained. Hannaford’s, on Cottage St, Bar Har- John Edwards: Ellsworth, Main St bor (best supermarket on the island, Outstanding selection of spices, natu- Ice Cream 288-3621), 7 am – 9 pm, 7 days. Often ral foods. Again, things you can’t find Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium: very busy in the summer. anywhere else. Inexpensive. 667-9377; www.johnedwardsmarket.com Sixty-four flavors of gourmet home- Hannaford’s and Shaw’s Supermar- made ice cream, along with 12 flavors kets, Ellsworth Mall on Rte 1 are the Gas Station " of gelato. Can be a significant line. 66 biggest (huge) and best in the area. I Main Street, Bar Harbor, 288-3281; like Shaw’s slightly better. Both are Somesville One-Stop (244-5504), www.benandbills.com open 7 am -10 pm, except Sunday 7-9. where Rtes 102/198 from top of the island split, just before Somesville. Mount Desert Ice Cream: On the Sawyer’s Mkt, This was Julia Child’s O’Bama agenda during their visit. Market. Center of Southwest Harbor. Drug Store Creamy, high-butter-fat ice creams Prime meats, old fashioned butcher, Carroll Drug (244-5588) on Rte 102 and naturally flavored sorbets. 7 Fire- gourmet and regular items, beer and just before downtown SW Harbor. fly Lane, Bar Harbor, 207-460-5515; wine. Small seafood selection but re- www.mdiic.com liably fresh fish and mussels. Superb Rite-Aid on Cottage St in Bar Harbor Cabot cloth bound cheddar cheese at (288-2222) and in Ellsworth Mall area. Quietside Café and Ice Cream Shop

10 Bookstore beautiful, high class. Croquet lawn. Good Websites Jacket-for-dinner-type place. Fab Sherman’s bookstore on Main St near views. (www.theclaremonthotel.com) Our Acadia Cottage St. in Bar Harbor. 288-3161; www.ouracadia.com/index.php Asticou Inn – Northeast Harbor. Old www.shermans.com Acadia Magic fashioned, high class. www.acadiamagic.com/index.html (www.asticou.com) Harborside Hotel, Spa and Marina - Places to Bar Harbor. Fancy, modern new hotel on the waterfront in Bar Harbor. (www.theharborsidehotel.com) Stay West Street Hotel - Another brand The Inn at Bay Ledge - Sand Point, new, fancy hotel on the waterfront in north of Bar Harbor. This is the place downtown Bar Harbor. where Ed Benz puts up guests. http://www.theweststreethotel.com (www.innatbayledge.com; Bar Harbor Regency - A fancy Holi- Ullikana Bed & Breakfast – Down- day Inn. Obama’s stayed there on town Bar Harbor. Carlo Brugnara has their trip to Bar Harbor this year. Just stayed there and loved it. Great outside town. Not as nice as some of rooms and food. (www.ullikana.com; the in town places. Lindenwood Inn – Southwest Harbor (www.barharborregency.com) (www.lindenwoodinn.com/index.ht The Bayview - A highly rated inn on ml; Eden Street just north of Bar Harbor The Bar Harbor Inn – Downtown Bar Great views of Frenchman’s Bay. Harbor. Old fashioned, lovely and www.thebayviewbarharbor.com classy. (www.barharborinn.com) Claremont Hotel – Southwest Har- bor. Old fashioned, (dates from 1884),