Acadia Mt Desert Island, Maine Samuel E. Lux June 2019 edition

planyourvisit/conditions.htm or by searching http://www.mdislander.- Hiking com, the local newspaper, for “precipice trail”. Neither is reliably The hiking in Acadia is, to my mind, up-to-date. The Harbor Walk in Bar the best in America. The approxi- Harbor and the walk along Otter mately 135 miles of trails are beauti- Point (Ocean trail) are both very fully marked and maintained. Many beautiful and very easy. Another have granite steps, or iron ladders or short, easy hike is to Beech Cliffs railings to help negotiate difficult/ from the top of Beech mountain. dangerous spots. They range from road. Only 0.3 mile and great views. flat to straight up. And you get the Kids also love the short walk to the Fig. 1. View of Sand Beach from best views with the least work of any rocky coast and myriad tide pools on part way up Beehive trail trail system anywhere. Beehive to the Wonderland trail. Couch potatoes Gorham mountain and Cadillac can drive to the top of Cadillac Cliffs, then walk back along shore mountain, the highest point in the (Ocean trail), Precipice (appropriately park. Views are worth it. named), and the Jordan Cliffs trail Excellent Circle Hikes followed by a walk back down South Ridge of Penobscot mountain trail are Beehive-Gorham-Ocean Drive my favorites, but there are dozens of Park at Sand Beach on the Park Loop great ones, at least 50 overall. For Road. Do this hike early in the day kids over 6 to 7 years the Beehive trail before the crowds arrive. It is very is exciting (quite precipitous) with popular. The trail starts across the amazing views, but not too much road. The route is Beehive → The work. For older kids and adults who Bowl → Halfway mountain → are not afraid of heights, Precipice is Gorham mountain (Cadillac Cliffs the ultimate. Unfortunately, both side trail) → Ocean trail back to the Precipice and Jordan Cliffs are usually parking lot. Exciting climbing (up!) closed until early to mid-August due to on Beehive, beautiful views from nesting peregrine falcons. You can Beehive and Gorham, beautiful, easy Fig. 2. Iron ladders and handholds aid ascent check when these and other trails will walk back along classic Maine coast. on the Beehive and other steep trails open at https://www.nps.gov/acad/ This route is the most scenery for the 1 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS to the top the short detour to The Bowl (a small glacial lake) is definite- ly worthwhile, and I am a big propo- nent of also hiking Gorham moun- tain, which isn’t hard and has great views (Fig. 4). The return trip along the Ocean Trail is also beautiful (Fig.

Fig. 7. Open views and easy descent Fig. 3. Grate over small crevasse along Jordan Ridge Trail on Beehive trail

Fig. 6. View of Frenchman’s Bay from Precipice trail

5).

Precipice The Precipice trail is on the steep east Fig. 8. Bubble Rock on top of the Fig. 4. View from Gorham face of Champlain mountain. Park at South Bubble mountain mountain trail the Precipice lot on the Park Loop Road. The route is Precipice → Penobscot mountain (Jordan Ridge Champlain North Ridge Trail (pre- trail). About 5 miles. ciously called Bear Brook trail) → Or- ange & Black Path (previously called The Bubbles the East Face trail). Precipice is the Park at Bubbles parking on the Park most vertiginous and difficult trail Loop Road. The route is Jordan Carry (Fig. 6). It is like Beehive but more Trail south from the parking lot → than twice as high (1,100 ft). The front face of the South Bubble → top views are extraordinary. It is definite- of the Bubble and Bubble Rock → ly not for those afraid of heights, but come down the back. Very short hike. it is great fun. About 2-3 miles. Great view of Jordan Pond. Very Fig. 5. Classic Maine coast along the Ocean Trail Jordan Cliffs-Penobscot Mountain steep exciting first section. The timid and young children can go up the least work. About 4-5 miles. Beehive Park at the Jordan Pond restaurant off back of the Bubble, directly from the alone is only about 1 mile and is a the Park Loop Road. The route is Jor- parking lot. About 1 mile. The rock great short hike. The front of Beehive dan Cliffs → Penobscot mountain (Fig. 8) is a glacial remnant. is steep and not for those afraid of summit → Jordan Ridge trail. Diffi- Acadia Mountain heights (Fig. 1), though the point cult, exciting first half on the Jordan Cliffs trail, comparable to Beehive or shown is the most vertiginous point This is a very popular hike on the on the trail. The whole trail isn’t like Precipice, with narrow ridges, log western side of the island that has this and is perfectly safe. Iron ladders bridges over crevasses and iron rung great views of Somes Sound, the only and handholds are built into the ladders and handholds. Easy descent fiord in the Americas. The route com- rocks where needed to aid ascent with super 270 degree views (Fig. 7) bines a moderate hike up Acadia (Fig. 2) and, where needed, grates along the rocky, open south ridge of mountain with a steep descent to cover crevasses (Fig. 3). Once you get Man O’War Brook Valley, where 18th

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century ships moored to obtain fresh Hikes for Children water from the stream that cascades into the ocean there, followed by a Relatively young children can gentle return walk. Park at the Aca- scramble up the back side of the dia mountain lot on Rte 102. The South Bubble, as noted above, but route is the Acadia mountain trail → there are three other relatively short return on fire road (Man O’War Brook out-and-back hikes that our young Valley) or, for a longer hike, East Face grandchildren enjoy. Trail of St Sauveur mountain → St Fig. 11. Wonderland Trail end Sauveur Cliffs (go all the way to Val- ley Peak) → retrace steps to St the Park: Acadia’s Hiking Guide by Sauveur Peak → Trail back to Acadia Thomas A. St Germain that is avail- parking lot. The shorter route is able at the National Park headquar- about 2 miles. ters off Route 3 on the way from the top of the island to Bar Harbor. Other books to consider (many also avail- Fig 10. Cadillac Mtn summit able at Park Headquarters or from Amazon) include: Acadia: The Com- Cadillac Mountain plete Guide: Mt. Desert Island & Acadia Cadillac Mtn (1532 ft) is the highest National Park by James Kaiser (Desti- in Acadia National Park and the nation Press); Hiking Acadia National highest mountain on the coast north Park by Dolores Kong and Dan Ring of Rio de Janeiro. The summit is flat (Falcon Press); and Discover Acadia and easy for even 2 to 3 year old National Park, 2nd ed: AMC Guide to Fig 9. Rock tunnel on Giant Slide trail children to negotiate, and there is a the Best Hiking, Biking, and Paddling Giant Slide-Sargent Mountain road to the top and adequate parking. (AMC Discover Series) by Jerry The view (Fig. 10) is fantastic. Monkman and Marcy Monkman This is a strenuous but wonderfully (Appalachian Mountain Club Books) varied hike up the west side of Sar- Beech Mountain gent Mtn, the second largest in the Beech Mtn, like Cadillac, has a road Maps park. Park along Rte 198 near the be- that leads most of the way to the Hiking, Biking, and Paddling Map to ginning of Sargent Drive and follow a summit, so that it is accessible for Acadia National Park (printed on private dirt road for 0.4 mi to the be- younger children. Drive to the end of tough Tyvec, not paper) from the ginng of the trail. The first part of the Beech Hill Rd (off Pretty Marsh Rd Appalachian Mountain Club Books is hike follows a brook with beautiful (Rte 102) just south of Somesville on a good map of the park. Many others little falls and water tumbling over the western side of the island). Park are available at Park Headquarters and around giant boulders. The trail and hike a short distance to the east goes through caves (Fig 9) and over to reach the Beech Mtn cliffs and log bridges and is great fun. The hike great views. Biking then follows the Grandgent trail, Wonderland Trail which rises steeply up the side of The biking in Acadia National Park is This flat (1.4 mi roundtrip) trail be- Sargent Mts, with beautiful views to fabulous. There are more than 50 gins off Rte 102A at the very southern the west. From the top the views con- miles of fine gravel biking trails (Fig. end of the western side of the island. tinue as you return along the open 12) that wind among the lakes and The wooded trail ends at a beautiful north ridge of Sargent on the North- mountains, with fabulous views (Fig. ocean cove with wonderful rocks and west Trail (previously North Ridge 13) and some exciting ups and tide pools for kids to explore (Fig. 11). Trail), which connects to Giant Slide downs. These were originally car- trail. Books riage trails built at great expense by These and many other hikes are fully John D. Rockefeller. These trails are described in a book called A Walk in completely separate from the auto

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trail. Note, however, that the Park runs a free bus service (Island Ex- plorer Buses). The buses have bike racks on the front and back. They go

all over the island (except near our house) and are a great service. Popu- lar bike circle routes: Eagle Lake Loop Fig. 15. Echo Lake beach Park at Eagle Lake Parking lot (VERY Fig. 12. There are more than 50 miles of car- popular) on Rte 233 (Eagle Lake Books riage trails, which are now used for biking Road). Go around lake to the right Two good books describing the car- (easier climb). The signposts are: 6 → riage roads and biking trails are Bik- 9 → 8 → 7 → 6. Beautiful views of ing on Mount Desert Island (A Pocket lake and mountains. 6 miles. Guide) by Audrey Minutolo (Down Jordan Pond-Bubble Pond Loop East Books); and A Pocket Guide to Carriage Roads of Acadia National Park Park at Jordan Pond house. The sign- (Pocket Guide) by Diana Abrell (Down → → → posts are: 16 (cross road) 17 7 East Books). → 8 → 10 → 14 → 15 → 16. 8.6 miles. Lovely vistas. Hadlock Brook Loop Swimming Park at Brown mountain gatehouse Fig. 13. One of many beautiful vistas along the For real ocean swimming for the off Rte 198. The signposts are: Park- carriage trails hardy (and well insulated) we rec- ing → 18 (go left) → 13 → 12 → 19 → ommend Sand Beach in the National 18 → Parking. 3.9 miles. Level Park (especially) or the beach at Seal stretches, steep grades, waterfall, Harbor (both with water temp usual- great views. Popular. ly in lower 60s!). For freshwater Can add Amphitheater Loop to swimming (much warmer, where lo- end of ride to extend it by 5 miles. cals swim) go to Echo Lake (Fig. 15) Pretty, solitary forest ride. Not heavi- or Long Pond. Both have gorgeous ly travelled. At signpost 19 above views and Echo Lake has a very nice, turn left → 20 → 21 → 22 → 20 → 19 big beach and a lifeguard. Long Pond → 18 → Parking. has a floating raft in deeper water for Around Sargent Mountain Loop diving. Both are best on really hot Fig. 14. The carriage trails are enhanced by days. Echo Lake beach is at the many beautiful bridges, such as this one, Park at Parkman mountain lot on Rte seen from below that spans a stream 198 or at Jordan Pond House. From southern end of the lake. It is reached Parkman the signposts are: Parking via a signed Natl Park road off Route roads and have their own rock → 13 (go left) → 12 (go left) → 10 → 102 on the way to Southwest Harbor. bridges (Fig.14). You can bring bikes 14 → 21 → 20 → 19 → 12 → 13 → or rent in Bar Harbor (closest to trails: Parking. Long (11.1 miles), challeng- Bar Harbor Bike Shop, 141 Cottage St, ing, great views, waterfall, level 288-3886 or Acadia Bike Rentals, 48 stretches, lakeside, has everything but Cottage St, 288-9605). Also SW Har- you have to be in good shape. bor (Southwest Cycle, Rte 102, 244-5856). Even if you rent bring a bike rack if you’ve got one (can rent racks) to transport bikes from shop to Fig. 16. Canoeing on Long Pond

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288-0007, Acadia Park Sea Kayak Tours, 244-0577 and National Park Canoeing Sea Kayak Tours, 288-3205).

Long Pond (Fig. 16) (embark canoes and kayaks at National Park Canoe Center on Pretty Marsh Rd), Echo Lake (embark at Ike’s Point off Route 102 to Southwest Harbor and Eagle Lake (embark just off Rte 233/Eagle Lake Rd) are all great and beauti- Fig. 21. Bass Harbor Lighthouse fulspots for canoeing. You can rent Fig. 18. Park Loop Road at sunrise real lemonade is also recommended, canoes, kayaks (and car carriers) at as noted above, but it is often VERY the National Park Canoe Center or at crowded. Come at off hours (mid- any of the outfitters in Bar Harbor morning or mid-after-noon). The (e.g., Acadia Bike and Canoe, 48 Cot- Driving view from the lawn (Fig. 20) is out- tage St, 288-9605). standing. I prefer to drive the Park Everyone should drive the 22 mile Road early in the morning before Park Loop Road through the Nation- traffic picks up. It’s also magical on a al Park (Fig. 18). It is spectacular. Stop foggy morning, though the views are at Otter Cliffs (ignore Thunder Hole less grand. Another must drive is except on days with huge waves), Sargent Drive along Somes Sound, and drive to the top of Cadillac Mtn going toward Northeast Harbor. The (esp. on a sunny, clear, dry day or at ultra wealthy live in Northeast Har- sunset). A stop at the Jordan Pond bor and Seal Harbor (Martha Stewart, Restaurant (276-3316) for their fa- the Rockefellers, the Fords, etc.). The Fig. 17. Sea kayaks are large and stable mous hot popovers (Fig. 19), tea and homes from Sargent Drive around to Seal Harbor are gorgeous—esp. the ones on the roads winding up the hill behind Seal Harbor. Bass Harbor Sea Light (Fig. 21) is famous and pretty and worth seeing if you are down at Kayaking that end of the island (e.g., to eat at Thurston’s Lobster Pound). The har- This is fun, easy to learn and safe. Sea bor at Manset (Fig. 22) is also very kayaks are bigger than regular pretty and prototypical New Eng- kayaks and much more stable. Learn- Fig. 19. Popovers at Jordan Pond House land. ers are in two person kayaks (Fig. 17). Beginners take guided trips out Somes Sound and off Bartlett’s Land- ing, among others. There are numer- ous outfitters that rent sea kayaks— two are in Bar Harbor on Cottage St (e.g., Acadia Outdoors, 288-2422 and Acadia Bike and Canoe, 288-9605) and there are several others in other towns (e.g., Aquaterra Adventures Fig. 20. View from Jordan Pond restaurant across Jordan Pond to the Bubbles Fig. 22. Lobster boats in Manset harbor

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the North American coast, where the view is amazing. Not that hard (my

Fig. 26. The schooner Margaret Todd

bring warm jackets and maybe even Fig. 25. Puffins gloves. It’s always cold out in the kids did it) and really fun. Gulf of Maine, even on the hottest day (sea temp only in 50’s). Other Cruising, Sailing Other and Deep Sea Fishing

Fig. 23. Climbers rappelling on Otter Cliffs There are sailboat cruises out of Bar Activities Harbor. The best is on the Margaret Todd, a 151 ft schooner, (Fig. 26) Gardens (Downeast Windjammer, Bar Harbor Rock Inn Pier, 288-4585 or 288-2373, Ticket Thuya Gardens (Fig. 24) (https:// office, 27 Main St). Climbing www.gardenpreserve.org/thuya- There are ferryboat rides to other garden) and Asticou Azalea Gardens parts of Acadia Natl Park (e.g., to the near Northeast Harbor (https:// The outfitters above and others offer isolated Isle du Haut from Stoning- www.gardenpreserve.org/asticou- rock-climbing lessons. Acadia Moun- ton, ME aboard the mail boat, azalea-garden) are very lovely and tain Guides Climbing School (198 207-367-5193). One can take the early worth a trip. The Wildflower Gar- Main St, Bar Harbor, 288-8186 or evening ferry from Northeast Harbor dens at Sieur de Monts Springs, off 1-888-232-9559) is good. Also Atlantic to Little Cranberry Island (244-5582) Rte 3 at the Park Loop Road entrance, Climbing School (26 Cottage St, Bar and eat lobster at the Islesford Dock just south of the Jackson Laboratory Harbor, 288-2521). Kids love this. Restaurant (Fig. 27; 244-7494) then are also very nice. Good for a They teach you how to rappel down come home on the sunset ferry. Or cloudy/foggy day cliffs and climb up them, using ropes. the beautiful Sunset Cruise on the Beginner lessons are often at Otter Islesford Ferry from Northeast Har- Cliffs (Fig. 23), the highest cliffs on Whales and Puffins bor (276-3717). The Lunchtime (11 am

Several cruises out of Bar Harbor at about noon daily to whaling spots in the Gulf of Maine. (Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co., 288-2386 for tickets. www.barharborwhales.com/default- .php) Some companies also show you puffins (Fig. 25) (e.g., Sea Bird Watch- er, 800-BIRDS-94) or seals. You are virtually guaranteed to see lots of Fig. 27. Islesford Dock Restaurant on Fig. 24. Flowers at the lovely Thuya Garden humpback whales. Remember to Little Cranberry Island

6 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS - 2:30 pm) cruise to Frenchboro by the island and Bar Harbor. This is the Island Cruises out of Bass Harbor best. Excellent minigolf. Two courses, (www.bassharborcruises.com) topped waterfalls, caves, etc. (www.pi- by a lobster lunch at Lunt’s Dockside ratescove.net/location/7; 288-2133). Deli (334-2922; famous for lobster It has two excellent and imaginative rolls) is also highly recommended. courses. Kids love it. There is deep-sea fishing out of Bar Wild Acadia Fun Park is another Harbor (Downeast Windjammer, 288- miniature golf course about halfway 4585) or SW Harbor (Custom Char- between the island and Ellsworth which is also good and has water ters ‘Next Time’, 244-7044 or Mosako Fig. 28. Kebo Valley golf course Queen, 244-5385). slides, a Go Kart track and a 45-ft high aerial park and ropes course Boats can be rented from Mansell Golf (www.wildacadia.com; 207-667-2073). Boat Rentals (power boats (13’-19’) or sail boats (Cal 25’ –Cal 31’), with or The Kebo Valley Golf Club (Fig. 28) without lessons, 244-5625, www.- is a great old golf course near the lab Movies mansellboatrentals.com). Powerboats (eighth oldest course in the country The best place for first run movies the can also be rented from Manset Yacht (1896) and rated as the third best Reel Pizza and Cinerama (schedule Service (244-4040, www.mansetyacht- course in Maine; Warren Harding’s at www.reelpizza.net; 288-3811) in service.com). favorite course). It has great moun- Bar Harbor, which serves decent piz- One can also take a day (or multi- tain views. (288-5000, www.kebovall- za with movies (you can sit in regular day) trip on the Cat, a high speed eyclub.com; green fees ~$75). Need to movie seats with a table in front of catamaran ferry, from the Bay Ferries call ahead for a tee time. They also you or on old couches). Terminal, 121 Eden St (north on Rte 3 rent clubs and, of course, carts. It’s a from Bar Harbor) to Yarmouth, Nova very nice place to go for lunch even if Music Scotia, which is straight east, only 2 you’re not playing golf. The food is hrs and 45 min away (888-249-SAIL), excellent and you can sit out on the There is a strong music scene in the etc., etc. deck and take in the views. Bar Harbor area in the summer. The There is a Driving Range: about Mt Desert Festival of Chamber Mu- Antiquing halfway between the island and sic (www.mtdesertfestival.org) has a Ellsworth on Rte 3, and there are oth- series of weekly concerts from mid- If you come up Rte 1, along the shore er less golf courses in NE Harbor and July to mid-August. above Portland, ME, there are dozens SW Harbor. The one in NE Harbor is The Arcady Music Society Summer of antique shops, ranging from junk said to be quite good. Festival runs from mid-July to late th to exceedingly pricey, rare 18 centu- August and includes many outstand- ry antiques. This route is much slow- Miniature Golf ing artists. er than I-95, but much prettier. Cam- The Bar Harbor Music Festival den, ME is especially pretty and defi- Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf (Fig. (www.barharbormusicfestival.org) nitely worth a trip. For small antiques 29) on Rte 3 between the entrance to gives one live performance of a major try the Big Chicken Barn, 1768 Buck- opera at the Criterion Theatre in mid- sport Rd (Rte 3) 9 miles west of July every year and offers many other Ellsworth. filmed operas and live jazz and clas- sical music performances at various Glider and Sightseeing venues in the Bar Harbor area. Airplane Rides The Mount Desert Summer Chorale (http://summerchorale.org) is an You can take glider rides (207-667- outstanding chorus of summer visi- SOAR) and sightseeing airplane rides tors and full-time residents (Fig. 30). (207-667-6527) out of Trenton Airport. It performs major classical choral Fig. 29. Pirate’s Cove Miniature Golf works, usually with orchestra, each

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Artist Workshops

Acadia Workshop Center, 566 Sea- wall Rd, SW Harbor, 244-3020; www.acadiaworkshopcenter.com/ Index.html. Five day artists work- shops in different media. Fig. 30. Mount Desert Summer Chorale Art Galleries year on the first Friday and Saturday in August. I sing with this group. Mt Desert St in Bar Harbor and espe- Fig. 32. Blueberry Barrens in September 2019 is their 51st anniversary concert cially in Blue Hill, ME, which is a (Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana) beautiful town in its own right. If After the season, in mid-to-late Sep- you go to Blue Hill don’t forget to tember the fields turn a riot of colors Repertory Theatre travel south of town to the Blue Hill (Fig. 32) and are worth a sightseeing Reversing Falls on Rte 175. trip to Cherryfield, the center of Acadia Repertory Theatre (244-7260; Maine blueberrydom. Turn north on www.acadiarep.com) performs vari- Rte 193 out of Cherryfield and then ous well known plays and comedies right on Ridge Rd. The road ends in almost every night in July and Au- the barrens, thousands of acres of gust in the small theatre on Rte 102, open, barren land left by the glaciers. near Somesville. Usually, they end http://archive.boston.com/traveł the season with an Agatha Christie explorene/maine/articles/ mystery. Intimate. Quality is only so- Fig. 31. Emerson School playground 2011/09/11/for_a_different_fall_fo- so but it’s cheap and good fun. There liage_trip_visit_maines_vast_blue- is also a matinee kids theatre on Wed berry_barrens/) and Sat. Playgrounds Museums There are children’s playgrounds in Bar Harbor (across from the YMCA) Restaurants Seal Cove Auto Museum on Seal and in Southwest Harbor, but our Cove Road in Seal Cove. I haven’t grandchildren’s favorite is behind List of most restaurants and menus at been there but it is highly regarded Emerson Elementary School (Fig. 31). www.barharbormenus.com (www.sealcoveautomuseum.org). The school is located at the corner where Route 233 (Eagle Lake Road) Fancy Wendell Gilley Museum (wood meets Route 3 (Mt Desert St) in Bar carved birds) in Southwest Harbor All of these are excellent. Havana is Harbor. Great slides. (www.wendellgilleymuseum.org; the quality of a top Boston restau- 244-7555). Blueberry Barrens rant. Mt Desert Oceanarium (lobster Havana (Bar Harbor, 318 Main St, hatchery, blue lobster, lobster stuff, Maine is the world’s largest producer 288-2822) – Cuban/American. Small 288-5005; www.theoceanarium.com) of wild blueberries. These ”low band. Inventive cuisine, great wines Abbe Museum (Wabanaki Indian bush” berries are smaller and much (Wine Spectator’s Award of Excel- artifacts. www.abbemuseum.org) tastier than cultivated blueberries lence). Popular. Always excellent. and are not to be missed. They are The Obama’s choice for dinner on available in most local grocery stores their 2010 visit to Bar Harbor. We like once they come in season in August. the back annex rather than the main

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room. www.havanamaine.com/in- required. www.theclaremonthotel.- McKay’s Public House (Bar Harbor, dex_BH.html com/dining 288-2002) Very popular. Local and organic cuisine, plus gourmet pub Burning Tree (just north of Otter XYZ (Manset, end of Bennett Lane, fare. Good burgers. www.mck- Creek, 288-9331) – California 244-5221) – Authentic Southern ayspublichouse.com/index.php gourmet, seafood, vegetarian. Top Mexican/Yucatan cuisine. Interesting rated by many. Closed Tuesdays. restaurant. NY Times says one of the Fish House Grill (1 West Street, Bar https://www.facebook.com/the- best of its kind in the country. Harbor, 288-3070). Seafood on a pier burningtreerestaurant/ www.xyzmaine.com/xyz.html; in the harbor with super views, espe- Cafe This Way (Bar Harbor, 14½ Mt www.boston.com/travełexplorene/ cially on the covered pier on a nice Desert St, 288-4483) – Down an al- maine/articles/2006/09/06/find- night. Extensive menu. https://eat- leyway off Mt Desert St. Popular. ing_a_true_taste_of_mexi- fishmaine.com/fish-house-grilł American gourmet. Less expensive co_in_the_woods_of_maine Paddy’s Irish Pub (in West Street than some. www.cafethisway.com Red Sky (14 Clark Point Rd, South- Hotel, 151 Main St, Bar Harbor, Coda (18 Village Green Way west Harbor, 244-0476) White table 801-3786). Irish-American cuisine. Southwest Harbor, 244-8133). This cloth dining. Local and seasonal Pub atmosphere. New but reportedly new restaurant is located behind the products. Outstanding food. good food. https://www.thewest- shops on the main drag. Turn right at www.redskyrestaurant.com streethotel.com/bar-harbor-restau- Carroll’s Drug Store and go around Sips (4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest rants/ back. Farm to table restaurant and Harbor, 244-4550). Restaurant/wine Lompoc Café and Brewpub (36 Rod- bar with appetizers and small plates. bar. Interesting wines. Small plates ick St, Bar Harbor, 288-9392). Pub Musical entertainment most nights. (like tapas) with optional wine “sips” food with seasonal fish and locally https://www.codasouthwesthar- (2 oz), glasses (5 oz) or bottles. A grown organic produce. Live music bor.com wine bar with fancy food. Live mu- Fri & Sat, Open Mic Nite on Thurs. Mache Bistro (Bar Harbor, 321 Maine sic. Run by the wine expert who Bocce court. www.lompoccafe.com. St, 288-0447) - French bistro cuisine, owns Sawyer’s Specialties next door. Mainely Meats BBQ (15 Knox Road, seafood. Closed Mondays. www.- Popular with locals. www.sipsmdi.- Town Hill, in back of Atlantic Brew- machebistro.com com ing, 288-9200). There are also branch- Rogue Cafe (Town Hill, Rte 102, 288- es in Bar Harbor (52 Cottage St, 1011) - Previously the highly rated Less Fancy 801-9700) and on Rte-3 next to the Town Hill Bistro. Relocated to the top Blaze (Bar Harbor, 198 Main St, Udder Heaven Ice Cream Store and of the hill on Rte 102 before descend- 801-2755) Mixed cuisine. Cozy, up- across from the Pirate’s Cove Mina- ing into Southwest Harbor. Creative scale, wood-fired entrees, 40 craft ture Golf courses (369 ME-3, dishes, slightly off-beat style. beers. https://www.facebook.com/ 288-1100). BBQ and brews. http:// https://www.facebook.com/Rogue- Blaze-Bar-Harbor-Craft-Beer-Wood- www.atlanticbrewing.com/mainly- Cafe-132633246806815/ Fired-Flavors-268418239866296/ meat-bbq/ Salt and Steel (Bar Harbor, 321 Main Crazy Dave’s BBQ. (479-9393) A Street, 288-0447) New restaurant this Jordan Pond House (at Jordan Pond black smoker and white tent located year. Daily sourcing of top quality on Park Loop Road; 276-3316). In the across from the entrance to Marden’s local produce and seafood (https:// middle of the national park. Famous big box store on Rte 3 near Ellsworth. www.saltandsteelbh.com) restaurant with views to die for. Stop after hiking for tea, lemonade (real), Some of the best BBQ in the area. Xanthus (in The Claremont Hotel, 22 popover, lobster or seafood stew and Take out only. Caters events. Dave Claremont Rd, SW Harbor, 244-5036). homemade strawberry ice cream. goes to BBQ contests and sometimes Elegant dining in a grand 1880s hotel Crowds can be horrendous so best in is gone for days to weeks at a time. with contemporary food and fabu- mid-morning or mid-afternoon. Eat www.crazydavesbbq.com lous views. Jackets requested but not on lawn. https://jordanpondhouse.- com.

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of hotel. Lunch on the Terrace (Ter- race Grill) next to the ocean under yellow umbrellas on nice days. Excel- lent food, A+ views of Porcupine Is- lands. Extremely civilized. Inside in the Reading Room in inclement weather. Opens 11:30 am. https:// barharborinn.com/dining/terrace- grille/ Fig. 34. Thurston’s Lobster Pound Fig. 33. Two Cats Inn & Cafe Links Pub at the Kebo Valley Golf Probably second after Thurston’s. Breakfast Club (136 Eagle Lake Road, ~1 mile Beautiful setting in spruce grove west of Bar Harbor, 288-3000). Sit on overlooking the incomparable Somes 2 Cats (Fig. 33) - Very fancy break- deck under umbrellas on nice day. Sound. A bit fancier and pricier,. fasts with some imaginative stuff. Good food and nice views at great More comfortable indoor seating. Really great. Lovely outdoor deck and prices. https://kebovalleyclub.com/ www.abelslobsterpound.com bower. Two friendly cats who are links-pub/the-links-pubs-menu/ Beal’s Lobster Pound (end of Clark happy to join in. Very busy between Patty’s Irish Pub - (West Street Hotel, Point Rd in SW Harbor, 244-7178; 10 am and noon. Don’t miss it. Unfor- Bar Harbor) see above under Less www.bealslobster.com) Also on water tunately they do not have a website or Fancy Restaurants and great views. a menu on the web. I’ve listed a Face- book page, a review site and an article Sips - In Southwest Harbor. Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound (just in DownEast magazine. (130 Cottage www.sipsmdi.com before you come onto the island. Very plain. No views. Some locals would St, Bar Harbor, 288-2808). https:// Boathouse Restaurant - at The choose it. 667-2977; www.trenton- twocatsbarharbor.com Claremont Hotel in SW Harbor (22 bridgelobster.com), Cafe This Way (14½ Mt Desert St, Bar Claremont Rd, SW Harbor, 244-5036). Lunt’s Dockside Deli (Frenchboro Harbor, 288-4483). Get there by 8:30 Killer views. https://theclaremon- Island, Lunt Lobster Co. dock). Fa- am. www.cafethisway.com thotel.com/dining mous for lobster rolls (http://lunts- Sips (4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest Lobster deli.com/menu.html). Take morning Harbor, 244-4550). www.sipsmdi.com (11 am - 2:30 pm) cruise on Island Little Notch Café (downtown, SW Thurston’s Lobster Pound (Steam- Cruises boat out of Bass Harbor Harbor) - Great bread, outstanding boat Wharf Rd, Bernard, 244-7600; (https://bassharborcruises.com/our- pastries and pizza. Opens 8 am. https://www.thurstonforlobster.- cruises/morning-lunch-cruise/) https://www.facebook.com/Little- com) is our favorite. Loved by locals. Notch/ Eat on covered dock (no mosquito’s) Other Food on the water overlooking a classic Jeannie’s Breakfast: Popular, plenty New England harbor. Fab views (Fig. Pizza of food. Signature strawberry 34). A quintessential lobster pound. Rosalie’s Pizza, (46 Cottage St, Bar rhubarb fruit spread. (15 Cottage St; Also steamers, lobster stew, crabcakes Harbor 288-5666) (www.rosaliespiz- 288-4166) - 6 am-1 pm daily www.- and some grilled cheese and other za.com) and Little Notch Café, jeanniesbreakfast.com non-fishy stuff for kids who don’t downtown, SW Harbor (https:// like the red bugs. Serve yourself up- www.facebook.com/LittleNotch/). Lunch stairs, waitress service downstairs. Both are very good thin crust pizza. Little Notch is very good (not open Bar Harbor Inn (Downtown Bar Abel’s Lobster Pound (13 Abel’s Sundays) but Rosalie’s has great Harbor on the wharf; 288-3351) Park Lane — road to Northeast Harbor sauce and is our favorite. in public lots near Inn or in Inn park- from Somesville, on the right just be- ing lot and walk around to ocean side yond Bar Harbor turn off; 276-5827).

"10 ACADIA ACTIVITIES, LODGING AND EATS

Sandwiches Homemade Pies butcher counter (don’t miss getting some). Prices on high side but quality Mother’s Kitchen, a tiny shack with Islandbound Treats. Mary Musson excellent. Park BEHIND Sawyer’s great gourmet sandwiches just south (Fig. 35) and her three daughters bake (turn right at Carroll Drug on your of the EBS Hardware store on Rte 102 50 pies per day in the three ovens at way into SW Harbor from the north in Town Hill. 288-4403; http:// their home: and go around behind the market. www.motherskitchenfoods.com blueberry, There’s a sign and you can come in strawberry the back door). www.sawyersmar- rhubard or Bakery ket.com Little Notch Bakery (244-4043). triple berry. Amazing bread. Bakery on wharf at The pies are Sawyer’s Specialties: Catty-corner Southwest Harbor (they sell fresh amazing and across the street from Sawyer’s Mkt bread and pastries just out of the only $22. Pick in downtown Southwest Harbor. The oven 24 hours a day). Also buy at Lit- them up at a best wine (by far) on the island and a tle Notch Cafe in Southwest Harbor. log cabin next very knowledgeable owner. Also (see above) As good or better than to her home at great cheeses/olives/ beer. Clear Flour Bakery in Boston, where Fig. 35. Mary Musson 302 Main St, www.mdiwine.com SW Harbor, the Little Notch owner trained. Beech Mtn Organic Farm and Farm 244-9308, just shy of the village, or Stand: ~1.5 miles up Beech Mtn Rd down the street at Sawyers Grocery. Ice Cream on SW Harbor side. Heirloom toma- Not to be missed. She’s no longer a toes after ~Aug 15. (8a-5p, Tue/ Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium secret though so come early. https:// Thurs/Sat, 244-5204) https://www.- Sixty-four flavors of gourmet home- www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserRe- coa.edu/farms/beech-hill-farm/ made ice cream, along with 12 flavors views-g40898-d7007993-r289670527- of gelato. Can be a significant line. 66 Island_Bound_Treats-Southwest- Rooster Brother: Ellsworth, Main St Main Street, Bar Harbor, 288-3281; _Harbor_Mount_Desert_Island_- at Union River Bridge. Gourmet www.benandbills.com Maine.html foods, eclectic kitchen cookware. Lots of things you can’t find anywhere Mount Desert Ice Cream. On the else. Great browsing for foodies. O’Bama agenda during their visit. www.roosterbrother.com; Creamy, high-butter-fat ice creams 800-866-0054. and naturally flavored sorbets. 7 Fire- Services fly Lane, Bar Harbor, 207-460-5515; John Edwards Market: Ellsworth, www.mdiic.com Groceries & Wine Main St Outstanding selection of spices, natural foods. Again, things Hannaford’s. on Cottage St, Bar Har- Quietside Café and Ice Cream Shop. you can’t find anywhere else. Inex- bor (best supermarket on the island, 24 flavors of soft-serve and 20 vari- pensive. 667-9377; www.johned- 288-3621), 7 am – 9 pm, 7 days. Often eties of hard ice cream and yoghurt. wardsmarket.com Plus, pizzas, sandwiches, lobster very busy in the summer. rolls, etc. 360 Main Street, Southwest Hannaford’s and Shaw’s Supermar- Gas Station Harbor, 244-9444; https://www.face- kets. Ellsworth Mall on Rte 1 are the Somesville Freshies (244-7206), book.com/Quietside- biggest (huge) and best in the area. where Rtes 102 and 198 from the top Cafe-153397438010223/ Both are open 7 am -10 pm, except of the island split, just before Sunday 7-9. Udder Heaven. On Rte-3 across from Somesville. Sawyer’s Mkt. This was Julia Child’s the Pirate’s Cove Miniture Golf cour- Market. Center of Southwest Harbor. ses (288-2233). Lots of different ice Drug Store Prime meats, old fashioned butcher, cream concoctions. https://udder- Carroll Drug (244-5588) on Rte 102 gourmet and regular items, beer and heaven.com just before downtown SW Harbor. wine. Small seafood selection but re- (https://www.carrolldrugstore.net) liably fresh fish and mussels. Superb Cabot cloth bound cheddar cheese at

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Rite-Aid on Cottage St in Bar Harbor Probably the nicest hotel in Bar Har- mountain ridge trail. This camp- (288-2222; https://locations.riteaid.- bor (www.theharborsidehotel.com) ground is conveniently located in the com/locations/me/bar-harbor/34- West Street Hotel - Another brand heart of Acadia National Park cottage-street.html) and in the new, fancy hotel on the waterfront in (http://www.recreation.gov/camp- Ellsworth Mall area. downtown Bar Harbor. ing/blackwoods-campground/r/ http://www.theweststreethotel.com campgroundDetails.do?contract- Code=NRSO&parkId=70990). The Bookstore Bar Harbor Regency - A fancy Holi- Park also maintains Seawall Camp- Sherman’s bookstore on Main St near day Inn. Obama’s stayed there on ground, which is near the ocean on Cottage St. in Bar Harbor. 288-3161; their trip to Bar Harbor. Just outside the southern tip of the western or www.shermans.com town. Not as nice as some of the in “quiet” side of Mount Desert Island. town places. (http://www.recreation.gov/camp- (www.barharborregency.com) ing/seawall-campground/r/camp- The Bayview - A highly rated inn on groundDetails.do? Places to Eden Street just north of Bar Harbor contractCode=NRSO&parkId=94719) Great views of Frenchman’s Bay. . Both these popular campgrounds fill Stay www.thebayviewbarharbor.com up early in season so reservations are recommended. The Inn at Bay Ledge - Sand Point, Campgrounds north of Bar Harbor. This is the place Other Campgrounds – http:// where Ed Benz puts up guests. Mount Desert Island hosts a dozen- www.acadiamagic.com/acadia-lodg- (www.innatbayledge.com; plus campgrounds and more than ing/camping.html Ullikana Bed & Breakfast – Down- 1,200 sites. town Bar Harbor. Carlo Brugnara has Good Websites stayed there and loved it. Great Acadia Magic www.acadiamagic.- rooms and food. (www.ullikana.com) com/index.html The Bar Harbor Inn – Downtown Bar Harbor. Old fashioned, lovely and Local Newspapers classy. (www.barharborinn.com) The Mount Desert Islander and Claremont Hotel – Southwest Har- Ellsworth American bor. Old fashioned, (dates from 1884), The Mount Desert Islander and The beautiful, high class. Croquet lawn. Ellsworth American are two printed Jacket-for-dinner-type place. Fab Fig. 36. Mount Desert Island Campground and online newspaper that cover all views. (www.theclaremonthotel.com) local news, but they require a sub- Asticou Inn – Northeast Harbor. Old Mount Desert Island Campground – scription after reading three free arti- fashioned, high class. (www.asticou.- The wooden tent platforms and RV cles a month. http://www.mdis- com) sites along the shore of Somes Sound lander.com at Mount Desert Island Campground http://www.ellsworthamerican.com Lindenwood Inn – Southwest Har- (Fig. 36) are among the best camping bor (https://www.lindenwoodinn.- sites on the whole island. (https:// com) www.mountdesertcampground.com) Harborside Hotel, Spa and Marina - National Park Campgrounds – Aca- Bar Harbor. Fancy, modern new hotel dia National Park maintains Black- on the waterfront in Bar Harbor. woods Campground, a forested site at the southern end of the Cadillac

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