A N E W S B U L L E T I N

p u b l i s h e d q u a r t e r l y b y t h e NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY

MATERNAL BLISS

A Weddell seal and her pup at Cape Royds, Ross Island. Photo: Guy Mannering, Antarctic Division.

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DRAWN BY DEPARTMENT OF LANDS l SURVEY WELLINGTON. NEW ZEALAND. SEP 1962. (Successor to "Antarctic News Bulletin")

Vol. 3, No. 5 MARCH. 1963

Editor: L. B. Quartermain, M.A., 1 Ariki Road, Wellington, E.2, New Zealand. Business Communications, Subscriptions, etc., to: Secretary, New Zealand Antarctic Society, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, N.Z.

PENGUIN VICTIMS OF which time some of them may al ready have succumbed to the Austra OFFICIALDOM lian climate. "Magga Dan" left Ho bart on February 3 with the unfor When she berthed in Hobart on tunate penguins still on board. Cap January 30, "Magga Dan" brought 38 tain Pedersen thought it likely that penguins, including 14 Emperors, the Adelies would be released to from the Antarctic. All were report make their own way home. He had ed to be in good condition and every radioed for instructions regarding thing appeared to be in order for the Emperors. In either case he had their transport by air to the Aalborg little hope for their survival. Zoo in Denmark the following day An absolute ban on the removal at a cost of £1,200. Crates were lying of penguins from the Antarctic would ready on the deck. seem to be long overdue. But next day the Health authori ties in Canberra announced that the INDEX birds could not be flown to Sydney as planned, en route to Denmark, We greatly regret having again to because of the risk that they might intimate that the Index to volume introduce some disease which would 2 of "Antarctic" is not yet ready. endanger the Australian poultry in The compilation (the voluntary dustry. Appeals at high levels task of a most valued helper) is a brought no relaxation of the ban. necessarily lengihy process, but we Three possibilities faced the ship authorities: be available in about a month's time. We apologise to those who have been 1. To carry the penguins all the inconvenienced by our premature way on ship board including a period announcement. in the tropics which they would be most unlikely to survive. There is no suitable refrigeration on the ves WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT ? sel to give the birds a chance of sur Six United States politician , vival. rived at McMurdo just before Christ mas. As soon as the plane landed, 2. To destroy them. a Congressman from California, with 3. To liberate them at sea to face a big grin and an outstretched hand, a 1700 mile swim back to Adelie approached a group of McMurdo Land: Australian naturalists con citizens, siapped backs all round, sider that the Adelie penguins might asked if any of them came from be able to do this but doubt the California, and gave each of them ability of the Emperors to do so. his photo with a plea for re-election to Congress and a printed assurance Cast iron Australian regulations, that he is "capable, honest and trust moreover, prohibit the release of the worthy!" birds until the ship has left its last Unfortunately there were no Australian port, Fremantle, bv babies he could kiss. NEW ZEALAND FIELD PARTIES FILLING IN THE MAP During the summer four New Zealand teams in addition to individual research scientists have been engaged on field work in the Ross Dependency. Three parties in northern Victoria Land have gone far towards completing the preliminary survey, which will make possible the compilation of a complete map—with no blank spaces. The initial stages of this three- encountered much bad weather on pronged investigation were outlined this trip and as a consequence had in the December "Antarctic." The many lie-up days, so did not cover teams were all able to carry out as large an area as they had hoped. their planned programmes to almost The party arrived at the pre their full extent, and all were evacu ated up to time and without any arranged re-supply point near the further serious misfortunes. head of the Aviator Glacier on cembcr 20 ready for the re-supply on the 22nd, but owing to blizzards THE NORTHERN PARTY did not get the re-supply until the This team, Gair (leader), Pain, 27th. During the last few days of Sheehan and Tobin. was flown in on waiting they were living on "gash" November 3 to the head of the food and their kero was down to the Rennick Glacier near the Campbell- last few pints. They had a depot Rennick divide, at a height of 7,500 20-odd miles away with four days' feet. They had 55 days' food, plus food for dogs and men, but no fuel. five days' emergency rations. In any case they couldn't get to it. For the first week Tobin and Pain After the re-supply they relayed surveyed a base-line and nearby their loads from the head of the topography, while Gair and Sheehan Aviator to the head of the Campbell, geologised" in the hills bordering this and by this time their loads were neve portion of the Rennick. After sufficiently light for them to stop depositing food at the landing point relaying, and they sledged out down they set out on a 20-day traverse the Campbell. They were picked up down the western side of the Ren on January 21 at a point about 20 nick Glacier, descending to 6,000 ft. miles up the glacier from Mt. Mel in 70 miles, and back to the depot bourne, at a height of about 3,000 along the western side of a line of feet. Two flights were required to mesas (flat-topped table-lands) form take them out. ing the eastern boundary of the Ren nick. This took them until the end of November. WEATHER Gair's party found thc plateau They then relayed their supplies country to the north of the Aviator 30-odcl miles through a gap between and the upper Rennick Glacier fair two of the large mesas and on to a ly windy. The Rennick was particu southern tributary of the Aviator larly so with strong katabatic winds Glacier. From here on December 4 pouring over the western margin ihey set out on their second 20-day from the Polar plateau to the south. traverse their objective this time being the plateau country to the Temperatures on the upper Ren north of the Aviator Glacier on which nick and on the plateau country they had identified on their photos north of the Aviator ranged com several large volcanoes (extinct) monly from +10° F. to —15° F. and which they hoped to climb. They there was quite a change from "day" March, 1963. to "night" temperatures. They did and 3,000 feet down the Campbell have several warm days when the Glacier. temperature was at times as high as GEOLOGY + 20° F. The geology was very straight As they sledged out down the forward with very little struc Campbell and lost height the tem ture involved and it had been peratures rose considerably and the "painted" with a very broad brush wind was also left behind. They in such a way that one had to travel found the Campbell Glacier a very considerable distances in order to windless feature and judging from see any appreciable change in the the snow condition it is usually so. formation. Over the whole trip they had about The rocks fell into four natural five days when up to half an inch groups: of snow fell—three on the plateau 1. Younger volcanics of the Ter and two down the Campbell. tiary and Recent volcanoes; 2. Ferrar volcanics of Jurassic age SLEDGING CONDITIONS (4,500 ft. thick); Down the Rennick they encounter 3. Granite and gneissic granite of ed sastrugi, some very high, and this nre-Cambrian age; restricted their daily mileage some 4. Schists and marble of pre- what. On the best days they could Cambrian age. do 16-20 miles but on one day they Groups 3 and 4 are referred to were down to 11 miles on verv rough commonly as the basement rocks. sastrugi—the roughest O.A.E. Pain The younger volcanics included had experienced, the others finally Kenytes and other related rocks. The got him to admit! Ferrar volcanics were predominant Across the neve between the Camp ly amygdaloidal and porphyritic ba bell and Aviator glaciers and on the salt lavas containing zeolite and climb to the plateau country, to the chalcedony and agate and resembled north of the Aviator and down to the verv closely the Drakensburg lava of Campbell, thev struck much "whoosh- Africa of similar age that Gair ina" snow which the dogs did not himself has seen. like. In fact some of the dogs be The Granite and Gneissic-granite came really panic-stricken and the contained numerous pegmatites that party's advance became progressive w e r e r i c h i n g a r n e t a n d t h e ly slower. schist and marble occurred only in Down the Campbell the snow was one place on the western side of the verv deep and the dogs were often Rennick. "bellying" in it. Nine lo 13 miles a In brief the western side of the day was as much as thev could man Rennick consisted of Granite capped age under these conditions. by 1,000 ft. of Basalt lava in which a few beds of Beacon sandstone up FAUNA AND FLORA lo 100 ft. thick occurred. There was At a point on the Rennick Glacier also a 50 ft. bed of Beacon sandstone about mid-November approximately sandwiched in between the base of 100 miles from the coast a single the volcanics and the granite. Some while "petrel-type" bird swooped of thc Beacon sandstone layers con down. They sighted a similar bird tained carbonaceous remains and on about December 3 just through coaly material but no fossil plants. the gap (Pinnacle Gap) between The eastern side of the Rennick the large mesas and saw high-flying consisted of large mesas of volcanic flights of these same birds on the rocks (Ferrar volcanics) commonly upper Aviator during late December. 3.500 ft. in height. In these lavas At the final pick-up point on the were occasional beds of Beacon lower Campbell they were visited by sandstone up to 50 ft. thick, in one two Skua gulls, which landed a hun- of which Pain and Tobin found sili- arecl yards from their tents. cified tree-trunks in places up to Lichens were collected at a height several feel across. of 7,000 feet growing on granite on The younger volcanic rocks occur the western side of the Rennick along a line of volcanoes that runs Glacier and at a height of 5,000 feet in a northerly direction from Mt. March, 1963.

Melbourne and cuts across near the through which David, Mawson and head of the Aviator and Mariner Mackay sledged, man-hauling, in glaciers. These are probably of the 1908, on their pioneer journey to same age and similar rock type to the South Magnetic Pole. Mts. Erebus and Terror. The granite and gneissic-granite are exposed all the way down the EN ROUTE Campbell and on the plateau country to the south of the Campbell and On December 24 a key survey a thin capping (possibly 500 to 1,000 station was occupied on the corner ft. thick) of the younger Ferrar vol of the Mt. Nansen massif, and on canics could bc seen overlying the December 29 the party sledged to aranite, the contact being at about the summit of Mt. Nansen itself. 7,000 to 8,0000 feet. The Northern Party sledged just January 6 brought an air-drop at on 600 miles in 80 days, and surveyed the northern edge of the Reeves an area of approximately 10)000 Glacier: 35 days' supply of food and pemmican. Between January 7 and square miles. 10, sledging round the head of the SOUTHERN PARTY Reeves Glacier, the party was near The take-off mishap described in Professor David's route. Survey the December "Antarctic" occurred stations were occupied atop Mt. Lar on November 25 at the combined sen on January 11 and Mt. Crum sledging party-toboggan party camp mer on January 19. in approximately 75° 50' S, 160° 40' E, near Mt. Bowen at the head of The team voted David's route the Davis Glacier. After the tobog down the Larsen Glacier "the worst gan party had been air-lifted back possible place to reach the bottom." to base, Hewson, Ford, Ricker and Huge cracks up to several miles Skinner sledged to the un-named long and a jumble of ice blocks must group of nunataks lying between have greeted him. 159° and 160° E and between 75° 30' and 76° S. Supplies carried on the On January 24 Hewson and Ricker toboggans had been off-loaded for the use of the sledge party. were only 30 yards from their camp when their sledge broke through a NORTH OVER THE DAVID crevasse bridge, jammed Ricker On December 9 the four men were against the wall three feet down, and air-lifted with their dogs and sledges, threw Hewson on to a ledge 30 feet in two flights, across the David below. Skinner and Cave (who had Glacier (north of the Davis) from by this time replaced Ford) pulled a point near Mt. Joyce (approx. 75° Ricker clear and lowered a ladder 36' S, 160° 38' E) and landed near to Hewson. Each field party carried the south-west head of the Priestley two 50-ft. lengths of the hew light Glacier in approximately 74° S, 161° steel and aluminium ladders des 30'E., some 30 miles from the point igned in New Zealand for just such where the glacier merges with the an emergency. Polar plateau. The party now sledged down the Further sledging south to the south side of the Priestley to ap neighbourhood or Cape Philippi proximately 163° E and examined brought the party on to the Nansen the high country lying between Mt. Ice Sheet, where large fissures Mackintosh in the north and Mt. caused by the out-thrust of the Nansen and thc Reeves Glacier in David Glacier made it necessary to the south. A proposed descent turn north towards Inexpressible along the north side of the Reeves Island, where Campbell's party win Glacier proved impracticable so the tered in 1912. party moved west towards the head of thc Reeves and then down its The party, now at Terra Nova southern flank to the Mt. Larsen Bay, arrived at Inexpressible Island area, and on to Mt. de Gerlache and on January 25. They made a com Mt. Crummer. Between these two plete circuit of the island, and a peaks lies "Backstairs Passage" very interesting discovery. March, 1963.

THE IGLOO ON posits, and considerable primitive INEXPRESSIBLE ISLAND plant life. The four men were air-lifted back to Scott Basc by United States air They succeeded in finding on craft on February 6 from Vegetation January 26 the snow cave on In Island. They had dog-sledped S^0 expressible Island, in which Lieut. V. L. A. Campbell, G. M. Levick, R. miles in 111 days, and hai E. Priestley, G. P. Abbott, F. V. lished survey control ovt Browning and H. Dickason survived 15,000 square miles of pi

FEDERATED MOUNTAIN CLUBS OF NEW ZEALAND TARARUA ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION We are indebted to the leader, MR. JOHN MILLEN, for this account of the F.M.C. Expedition in northern Victoria Land (see "Antarctic" for Decem ber, 1962, for earlier reports).

As recorded in the previous issue, at a scale of 1:250,000. The calcu the party was landed on the Plateau lating and plotting work is being at 72° 17'S; 165° 35'E at an altitude carried out by G. Holdsworth, deputy of 8,200 feet. After establishing a de leader of the Expedition, who is now pot of half their supplies at the employed at the Lands and Survey landing point the two parties of four Dept., Wellington, for this purpose. men each sledged off in different directions to explore thc edges of the plateau. GEOLOGY The parties returned to the depot The geology of the area proved to at Christmas and New Year respec be quite interesting, being mainly tively and each went down through greywacke with granitic intrusions. a convenient gap in the dividing Several areas which have been con range of mountains into the head of tact metamorphosed were fully in the Pearl Harbour Glacier. vestigated, and many specimens Their ways divided there again. were collected from them. Two Holdsworth followed down the Pearl mountain ranges were found to be Harbour Glacier to its junction with composed of quartzite conglomerate the Tucker Glacier, at an altitude of and a notable feature was the dis 1,300 feet. This was the pre-arranged covery of fossil remains in these pick-up point. Millen took a longer rocks. route via the head of the Tucker About 300lbs. of rock samples were Glacier. Millen's party crossed the brought out, a worthy effort, as they divide into thc upper reaches of a were man-hauled an average of glacier which flows to the northern about 80 miles. Oates Coast, and after two days' An extensive collection of lichens travel on that glacier crossed back was made, from localities ranging into thc head of the Tucker Glacier, in altitude from 5,000 ft. to 10,000 ft. which they descended to the pick-up The usual met. records were kept. point. "We hope that our achievements Thc parry was flown back to Scott have proved that the days of the Base by U.S. Aircraft on January amateur explorer in Antarctica are 26 after 54 days in the field. not yet over," says Mr. Millen, "and that other New Zealanders who have WORK DONE gained experience in our local mountains will be inspired to take The total distance man-hauled by part in the exporation of New Zea each party was about 130 miles, with land's Ross Dependency." sledge loads of up to 7501bs., two men per sledge. In normal condi Further New Zealand research on tions a speed of 15 miles per hour the Dry Valley lakes was undertaken was averaged over a day's travel. this summer by T. G. L. Shirtcliffe, The general opinion of man-hauling R. F. Benseman and K. B. Popple- was that it is pretty hard work, and well, who arrived at McMurdo on not the ideal way of getting round the "Arneb" on December 29. Some Antarctica. Little trouble was ex interesting data was collected but perienced with crevasses. On only there was not enough time to coin- one occasion did someone fall right pete the planned research before the into one and then rescue was easily party was flown by helicopter from effected. Lake Bonnev to McMurdo to board The survey work done will enable "Endeavour" on her maiden voyage some 3,500 sq. miles to be mapped return trip. March. 1963. N.Z. UNIVERSITY GEOLOGISTS AGAIN IN THE FIELD By IAN WILLIS. [The sixth expedition staged by the Victoria University of Wellington, V.U.W.A.E. 6, was led by Ian Willis, a member of previous expeditions. We are grateful to him for this account of the summer's work.—Ed. |

The Victoria University party this it was touch and go as to whether year consisted of I. Willis, leader, Dr. the plane would be able to take off. C. Rich, deputy leader, J. Kennett, It managed to with a few minutes T. Haskell, W. Prebble and G. Smith. to spare and the party was left in Apart from Dr. Rich, a Professor in its first white out which lasted for geology at Bowling Green State Uni about 12 hours. versity, Ohio, who was invited to It was decided to establish a base join the expedition and did so under camp near the Darwin Glacier in a N.S.F. support, all the party are large valley about 5 miles east of senior geology students at Victoria the landing site. All equipment and University. All members went as about a week's supply of food were geologists, Dr. Rich assisted by Smith sledged around Bastion Hill, a high concentrating on the glacial geology, promontory, into the Darwin Glacier, with the other members working on which caused the sledge trip to be bedrock geology. about 15 miles. A few days later The Expedition was planned to the party returned to the landing work in tne vicinity of the Darwin strip and each back-packed a ration Glacier, about 175 miles south of box back to the base camp. From Scott Basc. All food and equipment this camp the field parties, two geo for a 10 week season was to be logical and one glaciological, radi flown in to the Brown Hills region, ated out doing their respective map an ice free area of about 400 square ping. Most of the trips were day- miles north of the lower Darwin trips, about 10 days being spent 'fly- Glacier (see N.Z.M.S. 166, Darwin camping. Glacier Sheet). The geology of the Brown Hills After mapping this area it was was found to be mainly granite and hoped that the expedition would not metamorphosed sedimentary man-haul across the glaciers to Dar- rocks as had been hoped—the Win Mountains and/or Tentacle "main" metamorphic outcrop occu Ridge. In case this was not pos pied an area of about 100 square sible the Taylor Valley (about 50 feet! Because of the lack of meta- miles north-east of Scott Base) was morphics the mapping of the area chosen as an alternative area which; was accomplished in much less time as will be seen later, was most for than anticipated. tunate. After a careful look from Bastion A reconnaisance Might of the area Hill at the routes from Brown Hills in the beginning of November to Darwin Mountains and Tentacle located a suitable ski landing site a Ridge, it was decided that the cross few miles west of Brown Hills and ing of the glaciers was definitely the party was flown in on two ski- out for V.U.W.A.E. Air support to equipped Dakota flights on Novem take the geologists to Darwin Moun ber 22. Helicopter support could not tains was asked for and granted. The be used as on previous V.U.W.A.E.'b geoloaists having finished work in as the area is outside helicopter the Brown Hills returned to the range. landing site on December 10 to cross During the unloading of the second to Darwin Mountains. However bad plane, cloud which had been hang weather delayed the flight for 10 ing around the airstrip closed in and days during which time the glaci- March, 1963.

AMONG THE BROWN HILLS A view from Bastion Hill looking east across the Victoria University of Wellington party's camp towards the Ross Ice Shelf. The Darwin Glacier is on the right. Photo: Ian Willis, V.U.W.A.E. ological team also finished their a belated Christmas, packing up base work in Brown Hills, and this allow ed the expedition as a whole to be campthe landing and sledging site to be tne taken gear back to to flown by Dakota to Darwin Moun Scott Base. The expedition arrived at tains on December 20, where they Scott Base on January 1. worked until December 28, when On January 2 Haskell and Preb they were flown back to Brown Hills. ble with Dr. Colin Bull (Leader V.U. W.A.E. 2, Deputy Leader V.U.W.A.E. The Darwin Mountains were found 4—now at Ohio State University) left to consist entirely of Beacon Sand by helicopter for Taylor Valley and stone and Dolerite. The Beacon Sand estabished a camp at the western stone is a fresh water continental end of Lake Bonney. This also served deposit and evidence was found of as a reconnaissance flight to deter a previous period (about 300 million mine sites for food dumps. Kennett years ago) of glaciation of Antarctica and Smith flew in on the 3rd. and in the form of tillite—a compacted Dr. Rich and Willis on the 5th. lithified morainic deposit. Overlying Four food dumps were estabished this deposit were irregular coal with helicopter support at approxi seams containing a few leaf impres mately 10 mile intervals along the sions of Glossopteris and Gangamop- valley between Solitary Rocks and ris—plants that flourished in cold the eastern end of Lake Fryxell. The climates in Permian times. These expedition worked from west to east rocks form a sequence similar to along the valley, retracing their steps that described by Grindley from the as little as possible. Beardmore area. (See Antarctic, Dr. Bull spent five days with the March, 1962, p.3.) expedition doing gravity and glaci A few days were spent celebrating ological work. This reunion with Dr. March, 1963.

Bull was most unexpected and was SHALL NEW ZEALAND USE enjoyed by all. The expedition was lifted by heli TOBOGGANS ? copter from Lake Fryxell to Marble Point on January 16 and the next four days were spent doing geology, By Peter M. Otway. glaciology and collecting marine or Last spring saw the first field trip ganisms in this region. with motor toboggans by a New The expedition returned to Scott Zealand party—in a successful test Base on January 20. against the dogs. [While in the field four members The trip was intended to obtain a received notification of their gradu direct comparison betwen the two ation. They were Haskell (B.Sc. modes of transport over a variety Hons.), Kennett (B.Sc. Hons.), Smith of rough terrain. This has brought (B.Sc), and Prebble (B.Sc). Shortjy some interesting facts to light which after returning to New Zealand, Wil may well bring about the eventual lis received notification of his M.Sc. retirement of the bulk of Scott —Ed.] Base's huskies. It should be mentioned that this OCEANOGRAPHER TAKES is by no means the first occasion on which motor toboggans have been T O T H E I C E used in the Ross Dependency, al Luck was out for Norman Ridg- though it is the first time that such way, New Zealand scientist studying a direct comparison has been ob the ocean currents at Cape Crozier tained. New Zealand parties have this summer. When he went south preferred the more versatile husky on November 1 in the icebreaker tor the mountainous and inacces "Eastwind" he had a bright red sible territory they have been map boat with him to use in crossing ping since I.G.Y. Only in recent open water to the four-foot thick ice years have improvements to the de-. through which he could dig a hole sign and more dependable air sup and work his current-meter. When port (vital in the case of major the convoy was held up in the thick mechanical failure) made the tobog Ross Sea ice, Ridgway was flown gan a serious rival in this type of bv helicopter to Scott Base: but the work. 12-foot bulk of his boat would not fit in, and when it was slung below To carry out such a direct com the helicopter it swung so violently parison betwen the two types of that the aircraft was damaged. dog", advantage was taken of the fact that the Southern Party of the So Ridgway took a one-man dinghy 1962-63 Geological and Survey team instead when he was flown from were to commence work in the area Scott Base to Cape Crozier and at 150 miles north of Scott Base be tached it firmly to an anchor em tween the Mawson and David bedded in the ice. But in a Crozier Glaciers. It was decided that the blizzard the anchor snapped and the two four-man parties should sledge dinghy disappeared—along with the together to the area, and work there Cape Crozier privy. together for a while, the toboggan Undaunted, Ridgway entrusted party carrying out scientific observa himself to ice floes, jumping from tions of its own. These comprised floe to floe until he reached one on a g r a v i t y t r a v e r s e f r o m C a p e which he was able to cross the 200- Royds to the David Glacier and the foot-wide channel to the firm ice on study of minute insect life in its which he could operate his current- natural habitat. meter. He was not alone: several At the completion of the trip the penguins joined him for the ride. toboggan contingent was to be air Ridgway's project was important because of the effect of the Ross Sea lifted back to base, leaving the clog currents on the sea-ice break-out and party to continue the geology and on the calving of the giant icebergs survey. from the ice shelf . In actual fact, the trip went much March, 1963. as planned except that the surface range of surface conditions were conditions proved considerably fully tested. No better reliability rougher than the reconnaissance trial could have been devised. From flight indicated. Progress was con this will come a comprehensive re sequently slow although the com port concerning their performance bined party was still able to make against the dogs in all conditions the planned rendezvous on the encountered, and suggested modifi plateau with the R4D. only slightly cations to the design. The scientific behind schedule. What "was not side of the trip was equally success scheduled was the crash on take-off. ful and resulted in invaluable new Fortunately there were no injuries findings, especially in the entomo and all concerned were speedily logical field. evacuated by Otter and helicopter. Some gear, including one toboggan, [In our next issue Peter Otway will had to be left behind but was picked sum up the evidence in the case up at a later date. "Dogs versus toboggans."—Ed.l

The toboggan party, comprising HISTORY IN PEBBLES Ray Logie (leader), Keith Wise, Owen Wilkes and the writer, left Scott Dr. H. W. Wellman of the Geology Base with the Southern Party on Department, Victoria University of October 18, carrying rations and fuel Wellington, who last summer investi for 40 days. Travelling across ex gated the cause of the tepid bottom ceptionally rough sea-ice for the first water in Lake Vanda, in the Dry Val 150 miles to the Fry Glacier, the com ley area, has this year been roam bined party then struck inland to ing the ice-free areas of the Hut the Oates Piedmont Glacier in the Point Peninsula picking up pebbles. hope of finding better conditions. In Dr. Wellman collected nearly 150 stead, deep snow, steep hills and pebbles, half of them white granite, crevasses were encountered in place with considerable numbers of pink of the contorted sea ice. Although granite, pegmatite quartz, quartzite, just as much hard work was re dark sandstone, and abnormal quired in handling the heavy sledges basalt, as well as a few of other the conditions were less damaging to types. The pebbles ranged in equipment. diameter from 6 mm. to 17 mm., more than half of them being be Crossing the Mawson Glacier tween 11 mm. and 16 mm. in proved difficult owing lo heavy diameter. crevassing but was achieved after two days of extensive probing. It Dr. Wellman has come to the con also provided plenty of scope for clusion that the pebbles were blown the 30 miles across McMurdo Sound testing the steering lines on the to from the mainland. Pebbles of local boggans. After the Mawson came basalt have been observed recently high sastrugi and a long climb up the Harbord Glacier to the plateau being blown half a mile up a snow- at almost 5,000 ft. After splitting up free slope, bue the pebbles collected to do a 35-mile circuit visiting iso by Dr. Wellman are of rocks which lated nunataks, thc parties combined do not outcrop on the peninsula, though they are common on the again to select and prepare an air mainland to the west. Pebbles of strip for the pick-up plane. This ar similar shape, composition and size rived, after four days of indifferent weather on November 25. It was distribution are also commonly found in dredgings from the sea-bed whilst taking off with the second to in the locality. boggan contingent that the crash occurred. Dr. Wellman concludes that the pebbles were blown to the Hut Point The trip was, I feel, undoubtedly Peninsula over smooth ice during successful. Although the sledges and a past age when there was more ice toboggans took severe punishment, but less snow, and when the climate during the 300 mile journey, their was colder and windier than it is capabilities in practically the full March, 1963.

INTO THE FIELD: NEW STYLE H. S. Gair (leaning forward) Leader of the N.Z. Northern Field Party with members of his team and Col. R. Tinker (Scott Base Leader) on his right, being flown into northern Victoria Land to begin their sledging journey. Photo: Guy Mannering, Antarctic Division. T H E I C E B E R G W O N , . ■ geophysics hams, who wintered ov ~ ■ division. D..VI.K.. iave'recently ad- Base last year, to run tLv ...»w ^. vanced the theory that the frequent No icebergs calved small earthquakes recorded at Scott , Williams returned lo New Zealand, Base (the main seismic activity so leaving Langston to spend C*> • ' far discovered in Antarctica)' are with a United S' caused by fractures in the Ice Shelf Boxing Day a ,™ .w^ w.«-.«.« leading to the calving of icebergs. rocked their lightly-built Jamesway To test this theory, three New Zea- hut. They thought it- would blow landers last November went to Cape away so they packed up all their Crozier, 50 miles from Scott Base, equipment including the seismo- where the Ice Shelf meets the land, graph, battened down and prepared R. R. Dibble took a special tape j° fend for themselves when the recording seismograph of his own hut went. design which could translate the in- The hut withstood the blizzard. audible tremors of quaking earth But in next morning's calm the first into recorded sound. sound. iceberg iceberg to to calve calve within within Siffht sight th'S TAPING ICEBERG BIRTHS summer was sailing out into the He hoped his machine would be Ross Sea. able to capture noises from thc shelf ice fracture which released an ice- A welcome visitor to Scott Base berg. Sensitive seismographs at in Januarv was Lieutenant Cha-Erb Scott Basc would perhaps record the Sdubbundhit of the Royal Thai Navy. tremor to bring further evidence in He spent some days with the New the theory's favour. Zealand team, and presented the He left Langston and Grant Wil- base with a Thai flag. March, 1963.

At the same time other markers will record snow accumulation and This year an important ice study ablation, the decrease in snow level is beginning at Scott Base. The ob due to evaporation or removal bv ject is to measure the rate and direc blizzard winds. This will make it tion of flow of the shelf ice round possible to draw up a snow "budget" the base, the increase and decrease and to decide whether the volume of in snow levels at various points in ice is increasing or decreasing. different seasons and thc mechanics of the summer ice breakout from McMurdo Sound. This five-year ice study pro ICE BREAK-OUT gramme is in thc hands of glaciolo- The sea ice break-out study this ist Arnold Heine, who has spent six summer consists of photography summers and one winter (1959) in from the air by Guy Mannering. the Antarctic. From his photographs" break-up pat Mr. Heine collected samples from terns will be discovered which, over a 25ft. deep snow pit dug in the Mc a period of years will, with further Murdo Ice Shelf about three miles photography, reveal the patterns of from Scott Base. He has been able breakout to be expected according to identify each year's snow fall to differing seasonal conditions. back to 1942. These samples have been sent to The photographic recording of the DSIR Division of Nuclear changes in the Scott Base pressure Sciences in Lower Hutt. They will ridges, which was begun in 1959, indicate changes in atmospheric con is being continued. centration of tritium, a hydrogen iso tope occurring naturally as well as released through nuclear bomb ex INSECT HUNT plosions. Mr. Heine also took measurements A 19-year-old Christchurch student teacher, J. Mather, travelled on pf snow compaction at various U.S.S. "Arneb" in January charged layers in the pit. with gathering insects for a project on the dispersal and distribution of McMURDO ICE SHELF insects in the Pacific sponsored by the Bishop Museum in Hawaii. The The shelf ice section of the pro insects were gathered by flying nylon gramme is concerned with the rela nets of very fine mesh on a line run tively small ice area enclosed be ning from rigging to deck. The tween Ross Island, at the western nature of much of thc material tip of which Scott Base stands, and gathered will not be known until it the two islands not far from the is subjected to microscopic examina head of McMurdo Sound, Black and tions, some of it in the Museum. White Islands. Mr. Mather made a second round This "McMurdo Ice Shelf" is not trip in "Arneb" late in January. typical. It is affected by glacial ice flowing off Ross Island and is probably only partly fed by the Ross Dr. Brian P. Sandford, auroral re Ice Shelf. Just how it was formed search scientist of the Dominion is not known but this study may help Physical Laboratory, arrived at Scott to find the answers. Base in late January. Just back Mr. Heine erected a number of from two years work with Boston's movement markers on the shelf and Arctic Institute of North America, survey beacons on the island peaks. he supervised installation of aurora These were added to by the Wel observing instruments at Scott Base. lington surveyor, Malcolm Ford, who Later, he flew to Byrd Station where has the task of surveying the shelf he checked auroral research instru movement marker positions so that ments for the United States Antarc their rate and direction of movement tic Research programme. He also and change in height above sea level visited the South Pole, Cape Hallett can be discovered through another and the new Eights station, on simi survey next spring. lar missions. March, 1963.

VETERANS RETURN

M. McCarthy, W. Burton and W. McDonald of Scott's Last Expedition, 1911-13, inspect one of the expedition's lanterns, now a centre-piece at New Zealand's Scott Base. Official U.S. Navy Photo.

As guests of Rear Admiral James R. a helicopter. Perhaps the biggest Reedy, Mr. William Burton, Mr. Wil surprise of their tour was when they liam MacDonald and Mr. Mortimer visited the giant nuclear power McCarthy, all members of the crew plant high on Observation Hill, of Scott's "Terra Nova" in 1911-13 especially when Mr. Burton's radium and now all of New Zealand, re dial wrist-watch set off the radiation visited McMurdo Sound in February alarm. after 52 years absence. They sailed Mr. McCarthy, at 84, is probably from Lyttelton on February 6 aboard the oldest man ever to visit thc An the "Arneb". They visited Hallett tarctic. Station, the main Antarctic station of McMurdo. Hut Point, Cape Royds An American scientist who saw and Cape Evans, where they read a good deal of the veteran New Zea a 50-year-old New Zealand news landers describes them as "a delight paper. ful trio, alert, inquiring, awed by what thev were doing." Those who Reviving a flood of memories for were with them when they visited the three veterans was the huge the restored Cape Evans hut, the cross erected on Observation Hill in home of the winter party which memory of the five members of the "Terra Nova" carried south, were expedition who died on their return moved, he said, by the veterans' re from the Pole. Not capable of mak action. One pushed open the door ing the climb now, the three men and called out, "Well, boys, we're were flown over Observation Hill in back!" March, 1963.

"ENDEAVOUR" PERSONNEL New Zealand's new supply-ship, H.M.N.Z.S. "Endeavour" previously a The following, previousy listed in United States Navy tanker, left "Antarctic" as wintering-over, will Lyttelton on her first supply trip to not be members of the winter party McMurdo Sound on December 22, this year: but had to make an unscheduled stop at Dunedin to replace a smash E. C. Gatland, M. L. ( ed launch intended for the Auckland Goss. Islands expedition. She left Dune Wintering over in addition to men din on the last day of the year, and previously listed will be: was alongside the ice at McMurdo on January 4. A. G. LEWIS (30), of Wellington. Unloading was completed in six Senior Technical Officer. An English days and on January 10 "Endeavour" electronics engineer, Mr. Lewis sailed for New Zealand. Because served a two year period with the of suspected propeller damage she then Falkland Islands Dependencies called in at Port Chalmers for Survey in Graham Land. This sum examination and reached Wellington mer he has been responsible for the on January 23. After a quick load re-installation of scientific cauipment ing of general supplies and Arctic after the extensive building pro diesel fuel for Operation Deep gramme. Freeze, "Endeavour" left on her second southern voyage and arrived at McMurdo on February 4. J. F. GRAVESON (23), of Dunedin, On thc return to New Zealand "En Field Assistant. A country-born boy deavour" left McMurdo on February from North ntr.™ nrav,.«>n -m^A. ed Otago '. 12, made depth-sounding traverses and School of Mines. '. across the Ross Sea and north of B.E. in 1962, went to the Antarctic Campbell Island and reached Lyttel ton on February 20. for the summer as a driller but is now to winter over and will be in the field next summer. "ROTOITI" The New Zealand frigate, H.M. L. H. LOUDON (26), of Wellington, N.Z.S. "Rotoiti", returned to Devon- Maintenance Officer (Mechanical). port on December 12, after two He was born in Austra'ia, where he months in one of the coldest and lived until coming to New Zealand most storm-lashed oceans in the after his discharge from the Austra world, looking as if she had just lian Armed Forces after service in come from a dockyard refit. the Armoured Corps. He went down The "Rotoiti" had been making as a member of the summer party. meteorological surveys and weather reports for the U.S. aircraft flying between New Zealand and the An M. R. J. FORD (23), of Lower Hutt, tarctic. Since the New Zealand ship Surveyor. A Brighlwater (Nelson) boy, he was educated at New Plv- was at "the point of no return" for mouth B.H.S. and Hutt Valley H.S. the aircraft, she was on continuous After four years as a survey cadet alert in case of emergencies. he spent three months surveying So bad were the seas that rarely with the Snowy Mountains project could crew members venture on in Australia, and this summer was deck. Some waves, it was estimated, a member of the Southern Field were 30ft. to 50ft. high. Tempera tures averaged 2 degrees above freez Party. ing, but reached, at the height of one gale, 14 degrees below. N. J. SHEEHAN (25), of Dunedin, Guard rails at the bow were bat Field Assistant. Born in Invercargill, tered down as she plunged into the he was a pupil at Invercargill Marist waves, canvas screens were torn H.S. He qualified as a solicitor in away, but the damage was "super 1961 after study at the University of ficial" and the morale of the crew Otago. This summer he was a mem high throughout. ber of the Northern Field Party. March, 1963.

^m^^^l

A LETTER FROM NORWAY Ron Hewson reads the letter from Miriam at his party's camp on the Polar Plateau. Even Butch, Ron's big white lead dog, wanted to read it. Photo: Guy Mannering, Antarctic Division. BASE EXTENSIONS A LETTER FROM Scott Base grew rapidly during January when the pre-fabricated hut NORWAY extension components brought down on "Endeavour" were available for Ron Hewson was driving a dog- assembly. team on the Polar Plateau during In three days New Zealand Army the 1961-62 summer when he found building team members who are a note in a pair of mittens he put doing the extension work almost on for the first time. doubled the size of the science hut. When the parly returned to Scott In the next few days the floor of Base he had the note, written in the biggest building, a new garage Norwegian, translated. It said: and engine room, was laid. "Best wishes for your expedition." Instruments recording seismic ac It then was too '",'* tn «.■.■;<■• >.. tivity were switched off because ol the girl, Miriam tarctica was closed up for the win ter, but when s\ from the base. The hut will be tember, If" buried under rock to keep it at a This summer Ron was again high steady temperature and to prevent on the Polar Plateau leading a four- it shaking in blizzard winds. man survey party in Victoria Land. In the 12-man Army construction Wlien stores and mail were flown team at Scott Base, named in our in he found a letter from Miriam. last issue, Russel has been replaced When she packed the note two years by L/Cpl. D. G. Rutherford. earlier, she said, she had a school March, 1963. holiday job in the Bergen factory. Now 18, she is a student nurse. HALLETT NEWS "You should take a trip to see our Fire broke out at the joint United wonderful fiords and mountains," States-New Zealand Hallett Station Miriam wrote, this time in English. on Christmas Eve. Bearded for warmth and with hair No one was injured but one build down to his shoulders after 14 ing was completely destroyed before months in the Antarctic, Ron was the base fire-fighting unit brought naturally delighted to receive the let the fire under control. ter. "Ive always wanted to go to High winds caused a blow back Norway," he said reflectively. in the chimney of the Jamesway hut stove at 9.15 p.m. The blow back (The story of Miriam's note was spattered out burning fuel oil which featured on the front page of a lead set fire to the tarpaulin-covered 12ft. ing Norwegian newspaper: and Ron. by 24ft. building. now back in New Zealand, still The building destroyed was the thinks a trip to Norway would be woodworking shop and no one was very interesting). working in it at the time. Machines and hand tools were also lost.

PLENTY—NOW! HALLETT MYSTERY DEEPENS The thesis submitted by New Zea A report of a "mystery object" land geologist B. M. Gunn for his travelling across the sky last June, PhD. degree dealt with the dolerites made by Mr. C. B. Taylor who was of Victoria Land, Antarctica. at Cape Hallett at the time (see He had very little material to "Antarctic", September, 1962) has work on: only a couple of pieces of been confirmed by the D.S.I.R. auroral station, Lauder. A scientist pegmatoid dolerite with pyroxenes at the station, Dr. M. Gadsen. said about half an inch long. that a long exposure coloured This summer Gunn, now Doctor photograph .showed a trail of light Gunn, returned to the Antarctic (see across the photo running in what p. 211). Ironically enough, he was would be an east-west direction. able to collect during his first day There were no details of the in the field much more and better nature of the object, but Dr. Gadsen material than he had to do his en said that it was not a meteor and tire Ph.D. on! On this expedition there were no reports of a satellite he found pegmatoid lenses of 10 to burning out in the area at the time. 40 feet thick with pyroxenes usually four inches in length and sometimes FARTHEST SOUTH ? up to a foot long and about half an inch thick. Members of the Victoria University expedition played cricket on the Previously he had one cubic inch Brown Hills, some 600 miles from of very magnesian dolerite to both the South Pole, using a piece of box section and analyse. This time he lid for a bat and a cloth sample was able lo bring back about 100 lb. bag stuffed with paper for a ball. of it. NO DOUBT ABOUT THIS ONE An enterprising New Zealand pub Seabees and scientists at the South lisher has produced philatelic covers Pole have been playing football to commemorate the first Antarctic again. A team from the Navy Mo cruise of the new H.M.N.Z.S. "En bile Construction Battalion beat the deavour." But "Endeavour" has in scientists 12-6 on Christmas Day. explicably become "Discovery II": The first game ever played at the and the penguins disporting'them Pole was on Thanksgiving Day last selves on the ice floes are described November, when the Seabees won as "King penguins"! 6-0. March, 1963. FRENCH BUILD PERMANENT ANTARCTIC STATION Apart from routine scientific observations, the task of the French expedition at Dumont d'Urville Base on l'lle des Petrels, Adelie Land, in 1963 will be to begin the construction of a large new station to replace the temporary base set up for the I.G.Y.

Eighteen members of the 13th Between these two zones and link French Antarctic Expedition under ing them will lie the road system, Robert Guillard left Le Havre on cable-ways and oil pipelines. October 11 on board the Danish ves- The rapid deterioration of many ;ga Dan" and reached Ho- of the observation shelters an uan on December 7. The two other impracticability of extending or r< members of the winter party were pairing the existing electrical instal flown out to join their companions lations made it essential to construct in Tahiti. The 11 summer party a new generating plant and a labora members arrived at Hobert by air tory building in time for the Year on November 30. "Magga Dan" sailed of the Quiet Sun, 1964-65. As the pre again on December 10, reached liminary work will involve the use Adelie Land on December 18 and of explosives with the consequent left on the return voyage to Hobart potential damage to scientific equip*- on January 26. ment and inevitable interference CONSTRUCTION YEAR with observations, it is planned to complete the necessary excavation Almost all the main buildings of and erect the first of the new build Dumont d'Urville Base on LTIe des ings during the next two years. Dur Petrels were constructed in 1956-57 ing this period scientific work will for the period of the I.G.Y. Not only be reduced to a minimum. have the buildings deteriorated, Owing to this emphasis on build therefore, but no provision had been ing, the new team is essentially a made for proper off-loading facilities construction party, only six of the and there was no adequate system 19 men being assigned to duty as of roadways linking the various in scientific observers. In addition, stallations. When the French Govern there is a summer party comprising ment decided at the close of the six additional builders, a four-man I.G.Y. that French occupation of helicopter team, and, by no means Adelie Land should be permanent least, Mile Christiane Gillet, Chief of it became evident that provision the Technical Bureau, Expeditions would have to be made in the near Polaires Francaises, who studied on future for the building of a perman the spot the problems involved in ent base, capable of providing future base extensions. reasonable comfort for a wintering- over team of 20 or more men. Among other things, Mile Gillet, It was decided to divide the base who is a mechanical engineer, super into two parts: vised the installation of the flying- (1) the "wintering" zone in the fox at l'lle des Petrels. high northern portion of the island, Three members of the wintering with new buildings arranged in a party have previously wintered over. semi-circle along a rocky ridge and The leader, Guillard, not only win the existing buildings remaining in tered in Adelie Land in 1956, when use as storerooms, etc. he was Station Leader, but was in (2) the summer-party zone, on the the 1961-62 summer party: all this part of the island adjoining Cape in addition to a winter (as leader) Marret. This zone houses the un and nine summers in Greenland. loading and fuel storage facilities Work planned for the immediate and the administrative buildings. future comprises: March, 1963.

1. the construction of" unloading designate Guillard to Dumont d'Ur facilities and workshops, includ ville, and by evening all were ashore. ing a jetty and a flying-fox to per On December 18 unloading began mit direct unloading from ship to on to the sea ice, but it was not shore. till the 27th that "Magga Dan" was 2. the levelling of the northern crest able to break throuh to the usual of the isand for future labora unloading point. Bad weather from tories and other buildings and for January 1 to 10 delayed unloading a distributing centre. considerably, but the new facilities 3. excavation for the projected stor proved adequate and by the 16th age areas and roadways. unloading was completed and every 4. laying of the foundations for thing was ready for the repatriation future buildings. of the 1962 team. The severely curtailed scientific "Magga Dan" left Dumont d'Ur programme will comprise observa ville on January 25 carrying the 1962 tions in Aurora, Magnetism, Meteor team (T.A. 12) and the 1962-63 sum ology throughout the year, and in mer party; reached Hobart on Janu addition during the summer, Radio ary 31, and Fremantle on February activity and Ionosphere. This in 9. (For the tragedy of the penguins volves the temporary cessation (with see page 174). a few exceptions) of work in Ozone, Glaciology, Cosmic Rays, Biology and Seismology, as from December INLAND JOURNEY 31, 1962. The glaciological traverse over the The 1962 wintering party at Du plateau which began on October 18 mont d'Urville were concerned be- ran into trouble with bad weather. uise their cat, Aramis, was con In one period of 18 days only four miles were covered—and the journey siderably disturbed after the winter planned was of 300 miles! by the unaccustomed daylight. They Blizzards raged on October 24-26 seriously considered the construc tion of a pair of spectacles. and 28-30^ and on November 1-3, 18- 19 and 25-26. A snow accumulation of two metres made it hard to re APPENDICITIS locate the stakes set up on earlier A mechanic, Duchiron Bernard, traverses. had to have an emergency appendi The furthest outward point was citis operation at Dumont d Orville reached on December 3. Here a Base on New Year's Day. Two snow pit was dug four and a half earlier attacks had passed without metres deep, over three metres of it the need of surgery. Doctors P. Hiely in very hard neve. All observations of the outcoming party and J. Madar, were completed by the 7th and now wintering over this year, co-operated the return journey commenced. The in an improvised theatre. The team reached Cape Prudhomme on patient rejoined his colleagues a December 15. Two of the traverse week later. team relieved the men who had been manning the outpost, but FAIT ACCOMPLI themselves jzot back to Dumont d'Urville on December 27. Expeditions Polaires Francaises in formed us on February 25 that the programme planned for the summer REWARD had been completed. On her return voyage to France "Magga Dan" left Hobert on De "Magga Dan" left Hobart on De- cember 10. On the 16th, 17 k.m. January 30. As a tribute to her hos from Terre Adelie, the vessel entered pitality to successive French expedi thick pack and did not regain open tions calling at Hobart, Mrs. Marie sea till she was 100 km. from Du Louise Stephenson is to travel to mont d'Urville Station. Five K.m. France as the guest of the Captain. north of L'lle des Petrels she was Mrs. Stephenson will visit the grave again held up by difficult pack, two of her son, a Pilot-Officer shot down to four metres thick. in France in 1944, and the villagers The ship's helicopter now took who arranged his burial and have Mile. Christiane Gillet and Leader- tended his grave ever since. March, 1963. SUCCESSFUL RELIEF OF THREE AUSTRALIAN STATIONS SUCCESSFUL RELIEF OF THREE AUSTRALIAN STATIONS ANARE 1963 is well under way with the relief of the three bases, Mawson, Davis and Wilkes. The season now closing has seen some of the finest field journeys so far undertaken by Australian expeditions. THE SHIPS in on the way to Molodoznia spent the night and flew on at noon that When the "Nella Dan" left Mel- day. During the following day the e at noon on January 9, she radio receiver hut was erected and < ,, ,^d three teams totalling 41 men. also the aerial mast. Fortunatt' 'he men bound for Mawson and these and the unloading were com avis will spend a year at these two pleted by February 7 when a storm LE stations. The party which with 75 knot gusts broke out. was left at Heard Island will remain During the stormy night one husky there for about three months before was missing from the deck. Ap returning to Australia on the "Nella parently it fell or was pushed over Dan" towards the end of March. board during the storm by the other The relief of Mawson and Davis, two. Two men battled their wav and the expedition to Heard Island, round to the West Arm and fou was under the general direction of the shivering clog which had swum Dr. Phillip Law, Director of the An ashore. tarctic Division. On February 10 the men changed The expedition to Heard Island is over from ship to shore and the new led by Dr. G. M. Budd of Sydney. party took over the full operation SICK MAN RETURNS of the station at 2 p.m. On January 14 when the "Nella The ship was delayed when the Dan" was about 540 miles south of katabatic rose to 45 knots, but sailed Albany, West Australia, it was dis covered thaet Gordon Smith, one of at 9 a.m. on Tuesday, Februai the Mawson party, was in high fever with appendicitis. Rather than risk an operation in the very stormy seas, FOR WILKES the ship was put about and fighting The Minister for Shipping and at full speed ahead through very Transport farewelled the "Thala rough weather reached Albany, Dan", which left Melbourne on De where Smith was hospitalized late in cember 22 for the Antarctic. the evening of January 16. The "Thala Dan" carried 23 men, REPLACEMENT ed by Mr. Don Styles, assistant direc Meanwhile two thousand miles tor of the Antarctic Division, to re away, back in Melbourne 20-ycar-old lieve Wilkes station. Robert White packed up at his home New equipment was sent this year i n o n e h o u r a n d a f t e r a f e w to enable extension of the work of further hours of medical and dental measuring the thickness of ice in examination and outfitting was the interior of the Antarctic. aboard a plane for Albany where he A Beaver aircraft, two helicopters joined the "Nella Dan" on the even to be used for aerial exploration and ing of January 17. mapping, new snow vehicles and an MAWSON REACHED ice drill capable of brinsing samples The "Nella Dan" arrived at Maw of ice from depths of 500 feet were son at 7 p.m. on Saturday. February also taken to Wilkes. 2. Unloading stated next day at 6.30 With this equipment the party will a.m. in the usual 30-knot katabatic be able to travel 600 miles inland to wind. Fourteen Russians who called carry out glaciological investigations. March, 1963.

WITH THE "THALA DAN" DUKW's these being driven to the shore and up a steep icy ramp to After a rolling trip through the the station. There the new Wilkes roaring forties and howling fifties party unloaded the cargo on to those on the ship were pleased to sledges and distributed it to the ap reach calmer Antarctic waters. propriate storage. Cargo included Dick Saxton, OIC Wilkes, 1963, won over two thousand drums of fuel. the sweep for predicting the first ice Several new vehicles were unloaded, berg sighting. Next day was fine using rubber pontoons. and clear as the ship passed between A highlight of the changeover was many large and beautiful icebergs the return of the traverse party who to approach the very lovely site of had been away four months success the French station, Dumont d'Urville. fully completing a seismic survey "Thala Dan's" sister ship, the "Magga from Wilkes to Vostok 900 miles in Dan", on charter to the French, was land. (See below). already there. The helicopters were busy trans Lewis Island was the next stop, porting surveyors Kirkby and Bud- where the automatic weather station nick and various other people to was duly refitted and left transmit places of interest while the Beaver ting its readings again to Wilkes aircraft was used for aerial photo every six hours. graphy, when possible. By-passing Chick Island because of Change-over of duties took place in a barrier of pack ice, "Thala Dan" late January, but it was five days threaded or charged her way through before "Thala Dan" came out of the heavy pack ice to reach Wilkes on ice into the open sea and headed January 11. The ship's crew unload east for Chick Island and Lewis Is ed by slings into thc amphibious land, and coastal exploration. Meanwhile at the Bases

MAWSON north of Mawson, was alive with In November with eight busy many groups of somnolent seals, and penguins walking around busily. Two weeks ahead to the change-over the men at Rumdoodle on December 14 signs of the advancing season multi- measuring ice-movement stakes were first to sight the open sea. The sea scape constantly changed with the edge of the sea ice gradually draw nt to Mawson, was ing closer and only the harbour re to within 18 inches of mained covered until that too was the surface, while patches of open blown clear on January 23. water around Rookery Island en By this time all were eagerly await abled Williams and Filson to collect ing the arrival of the "Nella Dan" seaweed and sea urchins and paddle with mail and the relief party. about on the floes. FIELD EXCURSION Five men made a day excursion After a very trying period of con to Forbes Glacier. 20 miles west, for tinuous snow drift and blizzards, a lichens and a bird count. They were field party from Mawson reached the able to pick up fearless, nesting, Pin western edge of the Amery ice shelf. tado Petrels. Another party cap At one stage of the struggle it took tured a rare albino penguin oh Welch 16 days to cover 50 miles. This field Island. party, led by David Carstens, left With the year drawing to a close, Mawson on October 16, established sea ice journeys ended. In nearby a depot on a high ice dome above penguin rookeries Adelie parents the shelf, made a reconnaissance in were angrily protecting their new a "Snowtrac" vehicle around the ice fluffy grey chicks and the sea ice, dome and found a route down to the which now extended only eight miles shelf on fairly steep but hard snow. March, 1963.

The tractor trains successfully DAVIS descended the slope to the ice shelf on November 24 and established October was welcome and fare another depot on the ice shelf about well with blizzard conditions, but in 28 miles south-east of the first one. between Davis station experienced Carstens obtained an astrofix to de some glorious weather only appreci termine the position of this forward ated oy those who have been depot and a large beacon was erect through an Antarctic winter. Per ed to pinpoint it on the vast, flat haps thc most noteworthy event was expanse of ice. A grid of stakes was the return of the penguins. On Octo erected near the depot and the dis ber 10 one lone penguin was sighted placement of the grid over the ensu on the sea ice: this was rapidly run ing weeks enabled the glaciologist to down and captured. By the end of measure the seaward movement of the month they numbered thousands the floating ice shelf. The heavy and black dots could be seen moving tractors were left at the depot while all over the sea ice. With the pen the explorers pushed south and guins also came the skuas to reed south-west with two parties. upon the winter scraps. Weddell seals began to pup in the Long Fjord A three-man dog-sledge party, led much to the delight of thc camera by Landon-Smith, proceeded south to men. carry out other glaciological investi Two men camped at the head of gations. Twenty-five miles south of Ellis Fjord and in their local ex the depot, the party encountered a ploration were most impressed with belt of severe crevassing. Elsewhere the scenery. Another party went thc surface was free of crevasses with the dogs as far as possible up with an undulating surface covered Crooked Fjord where the Sorsdal with soft snow, slowing progress. On Glacier made excellent photographic December 7, the party liad reached material. They travelled over 30 71° 02'S. latitude, 130 miles south of miles for the day and both dogs and their depot. The following day they men were very leg-weary on their erected a line of stakes to measure return to the station. movement of the ice and commenced Two parties did a lakes trip, but their journey back to the ice shelf already some of the previously depot. They reported that the views frozen lakes were beginning to melt. of the Prince Charles Mountains lo By November the increase in sun the west were magnificent. shine and temperature caused the Carstens with two companions left thaw to commence in earnest and on the depot in the "Snowtrac" on De fine days trickling and dripping cember 4 to explore the western mar water was everywhere. However, gin of the ice shelf. He discovered there was still a lot of snow around an uncharted rock outcrop and fixed the buildings and walking over the its position. Geological samples and rough icy crumbling surface was specimens of lichens were also col rather hazardous. Open water was lected. visible 2 to 3 miles from the station. Early in the month Trott, Hul- Carstens then travelled north-east combe and Armanini were blizzard- for about 90 miles to investigate an bound for three days in one small area of ice shelf which was thought tent on the plateau when on a dog to be about 100 feet below sea level. trip inland. Later in the month Har- rop. Molle and Bradlev walked to Landon-Smith, Harvey and Walker Platcha via Crooked Fjord, a dis returned on January 10 from their tance of some 22 miles and this, plus 750-mile dog journey looking splen strong winds and slippery ice sur didly fit and brown, and Carstens, faces, found the three travellers very Trost, Single, Foley and Freeman came in with the tractors three days later, having waited at Twintops for fine weather for an astrofix. They arrival by air of 13 Russians who had a most successful journey and dropped in for fuel and rest between were just in time to join in the three the Russian bases at Mirny to the davs festivities occasioned bv the east and Enderby Land to the west. March, 1963. weary and footsore on their arrival panions walked into the lakes taking 11 hours after departure. with them a rubber dinghy which The weather men continued with they used to obtain water samples their 100 per cent, radio-sonde bal at various depths. Armanini and loon releases and during the month Hulcombe walked into Platcha on a painting programme but, because recorded some high flights, one the lakes and sea ice melted, they reaching an estimated 115,000 feet. The largest of the penguin family, were forced to travel many extra the Emperor, made his first appear miles. ance of the season and several were seen and photographed. W I N D S T R E A M S T U D Y An orange-painted caravan perched GOLD MEDALLIST at the edge of the polar ice cap, 20 On November 25, to honour the miles inland from Davis, is provid Commonwealth Games, a challenge ing Australian weathermen with dog race was conducted around round-the-year study of katabatic Gardner Island, a distance of 5 to 6 windstreams. miles, the teams being Trott and The katabatic is one of the curses Armanini against Hulcombe and of Antarctica. It is an icy stream Harrop. At three o'clock the teams of air that rolls down from the shot out on to the sea ice and 58 plateau up to four times a day. minutes later the winners flashed It is unpredictable, varies in force across the line with two minutes to from 10 to 100 knots, is bitterly spare. Casualties included several cold and whole-heartedly hated by penguins, whose inquisitiveness all who winter down south. proved their undoing, and four The main task of last year's Davis tired and sore-throated men. party was to esablish the remote caravan station, man it 24 hours a The end of 1962 brought with it day and study the effects of the the festive spirit and took away the katabatic on weather generally. sea ice and most of our drift snow. The project was 100 per cent, The thaw continued throughout De successful. cember and rivulets ran between thc rocks to the sea. Affectionately nicknamed "Platcha" (short for plateau chateau), the The sea ice had now disappeared remote station will add to man's from in front of the station and the growing understanding of the com change of scenery had also brought plex Antarctic weather pattern. a greater variety of birdlife. How In winter Platcha is a bleak, ever, without the sea ice, dog trips lonely outpost almost buried in were now finished and the dogs were snow, with brooding, dark cliffs out enjoying a life of leisure after hav lined against the steep, windswept ing completed 500 miles for the year. ice cap. Davis scenery had now returned The caravan was built at the to the rocky hills which the party station and fitted with two bunks, knew on their arrival over a year cupboards, cookers and even inner- spring mattresses. ago. The last remaining snow drifts The survey party to select a suit were diminishing rapidly. able site was delayed by the late Re-painting of the buildings con freezing of the sea ice and the edge tinued with some delays because of of the plateau was not reached until bad weather but by the end of the end of April. January was almost completed. The Once the site was chosen the cara colour scheme was varied and, when van was hauled across the ice by the Russians flew over early in the tractor with a dog sledge loaded month, the party's only visible sign with provisions and instruments. For for a year that the outside world two days the party shovelled, pushed existed, they thought that some of and bullocked its way through sleep the buildings resembled beach drifts while continually hammered umbrellas. by gale-force winds. Base Leader Harrop and two com The two men manning the caravan March, 1963. station are relieved every fortnight, GREAT JOURNEY and during the long, dark days of COMPLETED winter this is a major operation involving the tractor and man and Six men returned to Wilkes on dog-hauled sledges. January 15 from the most remote Despite high drifts, winds reaching parts of inland Antarctica. 130 miles an hour, and a mid-winter They were led by New Zealander, blizzard that flattened the theodolite Bob Thomson, Officer-in-Charge of shelter, observations continued Wilkes, and included Battye, glaci under all conditions last year. ologist, Walker, seismologist, Collins, The station is a personal triumph senior diesel mechanic, Evans, for 40-year-old Norwegian Nils Lied, diesel mechanic, all of Australia, and who was chief met. officer at Davis Foster weather technician, of U.S.A. last year. This' party left Wilkes in two tractor trains on September 17, 1962, He considered back in 1957, when and reached the Russian station, the Davis station was established, Vostok, 900 miles inland across the that the long fjord basin inland was Antarctic Plateau, on November 18, ideal for study of the katabatic. He said recently that balloon flights had finding that the Russians had not indicated that the thickness of the y e t a r r i v e d f o r t h e i r s u m m e r katabatic layer was 800 feet in the programme. winter and 1500 feet in the summer. Then began the long trek home, stopping every 30 miles to measure ice thickness by seismic sounding with explosives, to measure the WILKES earth's magnetic forces, glaciology and gravity, and taking meteoro Reporting from Wilkes at the end logical observations every six hour$ of October, Leader Frank Soucek as usual. could say that spring had definitely The party was first seen approach arrived. Their little friends, the ing Wilkes from 15 miles away over Adelie penguins finally arrived on the plateau by Donald Styles, the October 23 after much delay. leader of this season's relief pro Weddell seals were having their gramme, who went over by heli pups and Antarctic skuas were peck copter to greet them. They soon ing on garbage around the camp. approached the terminal of the The sun was shining, if not obscured moraine where the ice sheet ends, by cloud, from 3.30 a.m. till 8.30 p.m. two miles from Wilkes —the first At the beginning of the month there rock they had seen for four months. was plenty of sunshine which was Sixty men from the incoming and broken by a wild blizzard in the outgoing Wilkes parties and from middle of the month, followed by the relief ship "Thala Dan" streamed dull days with poor visibility and out over the snow to welcome them snow showers. The month ended home after their mammoth trek, by with a blizzard again. far the longest in the history of Australian exploration of Antarctica. As the end of the year approached It was some time before they could the time was spent in preparation force their way through the crowd for changeover. Wind or no wind, and actually enter the buildings at bulldozers were roaring, cleaning the Wilkes for physiological checks, a roads for the dukws which will be can of beer, dinner and a shower, in bringing tons of supplies for the that order. The men and their next year's party. Last touches of equipment were all in very good paint, last clean-ups and packing condition, which is remarkable in were all indications that the time of view of the conditions encountered. departure was close. Water pumps were working overtime keeping melt water from occupied quarters and, THICKEST YET with the end of December, most Most of their traverse was on ice jobs were completed and the station at 9,000 to 12,400 feet above sea ready for the new party. level — incidentally, they found the March, 1963. ice to be 16,000 feet deep in one section, the thickest yet discovered RESCUE DRAMA in the world. They experienced Skilled handling by Pilot Officer temperatures in November down to G. G. Cooper, R.A.A.F., averted a minus 83 degrees Fahrenheit. tragedy when a Beaver aircraft at Some days it took seven hours to Wilkes developed engine trouble on start the tractor train. The men January 19. lost seven to 18 pounds weight each The Beaver, carrying two glaci during the traverse. ologists, was observing ice move Tribute was paid by Mr. Thomson ments on the great John Quincev to the Americans and Russians for Adams glacier. their assistance. Admiral Tyree, of A dramatic search and rescue the U.S. Navy, had arranged for an operation began at 6.20 p.m. when a air drop of tractor fuel on November helicopter, already in the air two 5, without which the party would miles south of Wilkes and carrying not have been able to link their the leader of the expedition (Mr. scientific findings with those of the D. F. Styles) received a radio Russians. The Russians at Mirny message from flight control duty at were quick to offer the party (by Wilkes base. radio) the full use of the facilities The radio said: "We are losing at the unstaffed station at Vostok contact with the Beaver, and it may and of any material they needed lo crash into the ice cliffs 60 miles advance their work. south-east of Wilkes." LEADER'S STORY ALL ALERTED A second helicopter was alerted. Soon after arrival back at Wilkes The polar ship "Thala Dan" cast Mr. Thomson was interviewed by oft the DUKW's which were along radio-telephone. He said the cold had caused con side loading cargo, and Captain stant breaks in the tracks of the Hans A. Nielsen immediately got vehicles and the altitude at one under way for Ivanoff Head, 50 miles west-south-west. point, about 100 miles north of vostok, had led to altitude sickness. The two helicopters skipped They were then 12,400 feet above around between Wilkes, islands and sea level. the speeding ship, placing key men, The party had oxygen masks, but loading survival gear and refuelling. did not use them. They set out at 7.30 p.m. carrying Blizzards blowing at more than Mr. Styles and Dr. Frank Soucek to 40 m.p.h. had forced them at search tor the missing aircraft. another point to "hole up" in their After flying 30 miles and crossing caravans for three weeks. 10 miles of the glacier tongue, "There was a terrific amount of Captain Arthurson heard the Bea snow, with visibility down to zero. ver's radio —Cooper was reporting Quite often the caravans were com that his engine had stopped but that pletely covered and we had to get he had just managed to clear the out of the escape hatches in thc ice cliffs by 50 feet to land safely on roof to dig them out," Mr. Thomson his floats in the sea 200 yards said. beyond them. "The worst feature was the surface A quarter-of-an-hour later the —the sastrugi were very high and helicopters saw Cooper's Verey light very rough around the edges. We signal and saw the wing-tip of the struck them seven feet to eight feet Beaver tied up in a tiny cove high. But we had no major mishaps between the steep rocks of Ivanoff or injuries. Everything went particu Head and the glacier. larly well." Mr. Thomson said the party had BACK TO BASE carried out a full scientific pro Flight-Sergeant A. K. Richardson gramme on the journey, setting up and Arthur Chapman, helicopter seismic, gravity and magnetic mechanic, were flown in to check stations. A complete meteorology the Beaver. study had also been made. The ship, racing to the scene March, 1963. through the ice-littered sea past the TWO NEW ZEALANDERS glacier tongue, reached the area at 11.20 p.m. to find the aircraft taxi WITH ANARE ing out to meet it. With the aircraft on board, the "Thala Dan" was back at Wilkes in the early hours of the morning. quarie Island. He was born at Nightcaps, New Zealand, and edu LEADER AT WILKES cated at the Southland Technical FOR 1963 College. He was an aircrew signaller In "Antarctic" of December, 1962, with the Royal N.Z. Air Force. He it was stated that the Leader at was employed by the N.Z. Met. Of Wilkes for 1963 would be Mr. fice as an observer for a little more J. P. C. Curlewis. However, the man than a year. He came to Australia to who will now lead is Mr. Richard take a position with the Austra A. Saxton, aged 38, a mechanical and lian Commonwealth Meteorological electrical engineer who has served Bureau in 1961. He is married and in the A.I.F. with the rank of his present home is in Melbourne. lieutenant. He is interested in deer stalking, The Leader at Mawson will be shooting and bush walking. Mr. Raymond McMahon, aged 27, DAVID DODD (24), is weather ob- an Austraian who has seen service server-in-charge at Davis. He was with the Canadian Navy. born at Christchurch. This is his As previously indicated in "Ant second tour of duty with the Antarc arctic of December, 1962, the Leader tic Division; in 1961 he was at Mac quarie Island. Mr. Dodd was a tech at Davis will be Mr. W. F. Young, nical trainee, at D.S.I.R., N.Z., in aged 32, an electrical engineer, who 1955-56. He then became a tech spent 1961 at Mawson. nician with the Soil Conservation DANISH SEAMAN ILL Council from August 1956-February 1958. He was a Field Assistant with On February 20, en route from the Rivers Control Council from Lyttelton to McMurdo Sound, the February 1958-1960. He came to Aus U.S. icebreaker "Glacier" was divert tralia and took up an appointment ed to rendezvous with the "Nella Dan" to evacuate a seriously ill with the Commonwealth Meteoro Danish sailor, Elmer Mortensen (54) logical Bureau in 1960. He is interest aboard. ed in mountaineering, cross-country The "Nella Dan", resupplying the ski-ing and is a licenced snow-cat Australian stations Mawson, Davis operator. He is unmarried. and Wilkes was in the Davis Sea near the Russian base. Mirny and later at Davis Station. Dr. Russell Pardoe, who without The "Nella Dan" sailed on Febru previous experience, performed two ary 22 from Davis to meet the "Glacier" which was moving west cereoralcomplex emergencyhaemorrhage operations at Mawson for ward from the Ross Sea. Base last year to save the life of The "Glacier" was expected to diesel mechanic Alan Newman, has meet the "Nella Dan" in the vicinity of the ANARE ship "Thala Dan", been awarded an M.B.E. which had been beset in heavy pack ice for 10 days at a position 65° 20'S. and 118°E. The "Glacier" was asked on March 2 with Mortensen on board to help clear a passage to the open and he was immediately brought to sea for the "Thala Dan." Christchurch by Hercules aircraft. Once the sick sailor is transferred to "Glacier", she will sail for Mc Murdo Sound where air transport A Christchurch message dated is awaiting for an evacuation flight March 12, said that Mr. Mortensen to Christchurch. was still "seriously ill" in Christ church Hospital, and that no plans LATER NEWS could yet be made for his return to The "Glacier" arrived at McMurdo Denmark. March, 1963. EIGHTH SOVIET ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION MANS FOUR BASES By mid-February, Russian research teams were established at four stations, three on widely separated sites on or near the coast, the fourth inland on the Polar Plateau, half-way to the Pole.

Stations to be manned this year BACK TO VOSTOK are: MIRNY, 66° 33'S., 93° Ol'E. 20 scientists, 36 others. Moscow reported on 28 January NOVOLAZAREV, 70° 46'S., 11° 49'E. that five Russian experts had arrived 6 scientists, 7 others. in the Antarctic to re-open Vostok MOLODEZH, 67° 58'S., 44° 02'E. Station, about 316 miles inland from 4 scientists, 2 others. the Davis Sea. This is the area of VOSTOK, 78° '27S., 106° '52E. the South Geomagnetic Pole. The 6 scientists, 6 others. station team is to be headed by A geological team will investigate Vasily Sidorov. the Enderby Land region during the A radio message from the Antarc summer. tic dated 14 February said that in spite of —50° frosts scientific ob S H I P S R E A C H M I R N Y servations were being carried out at The "Ob" and the "Estonia", Vostok in accordance with the pro which brought the eighth Soviet Ex- gramme. The construction had be gun of a new power station. A ?anuary edition 15 to reported Antarctica, standing were onoff seldge-tractor train was speedily Mirny. "Estonia" had arrived on the penetrating into the heart of An 7th and the "Ob" some time before. tarctica. The "AN-2" aircraft carried by the "Ob" had ben unloaded on to the The team was flown in to Vostok ice, assembled, and tested in flight. from Mirny on an IL-14 plane. They had completed dozens of flights, ferrying personnel to Mirny On February 8 it was reported that and transfering the most important a tractor-train consisting of five items of cargo. caterpillar tractors towing heavily- The leader of the expedition is thc laden sledges headed for Vostok had well-known Mikhail Somov. reached Komsomol Station, covering After 267 tons of cargo, including the 540-miles in two weeks. four planes and five powerful cater pillar tractors, had been landed from A later Moscow message stated the Estonia, preparations began to that the tractor-train, which left send a train of tractors and sledges Mirny on 21 January, had arrived at into the depths of Antarctica. Vostok on 18 February. The Soviet explorers are accom panied by scientists from Czecho Komsomol is at an altitude of slovakia, the German Democratic Re 11,500 feet, and has been re-opened public and the United States. for the summer months to serve as an intermediate base for sledge- "Ob" spent a month off the Pravda trains and aircraft heading for the Coast, and then, early in February, interior. The station began sending proceeded westwards along the out regular weather forecasts before coast, heading for Alasheev Bay to the end of January. deliver 1,000 tons of cargo, includ ing huts, scientific equipment, trac Prior to the arrival of the sledge- tors, etc. at Molodezh Station. From train the team already at Vostok re here she sailed to Queen Maud Land paired buildings, prepared scientific to relieve Novolazarev Station. apparatus and flattened an air-strip. 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up. From among the boxes project ed an empty spirit bottle, in which NEW CHILEAN we saw a paper scroll. We carefully extracted it. Written in Norwegian OUTPOST and English on both sides of the small white sheet was: The Chilean navy inaugurated on March 18 a shelter, "Comodoro "Norwegian-British-Swedish An tarctic Expedition 1949-52. Advance Guesalaga" on Avian Island, in the Base.* This nunatak was first reach northern portion of Marguerite Bay ed by a reconnaissance party with close off the south coast of Adelaide a clog team on the 25th October, 1950. Island. The co-ordinates are given as The depot, consisting of approxi 67° 46'S., 68° 53'W. This is close, to mately 9 tons of materials and pro the British "Base T" established in visions, was established with the aid 1961. Avian Island, discovered by of a tracked vehicle in November and Charcot, was first visited and sur December of 1950. Field parties veyed by. a British F.I.D.S. expedi travelling by sledge worked at this tion in 1948. They called it Avian base from January 6 to April 28, 1951, Isand because of the number and and travelling by sledge and tracked variety of its birds. vehicle from October 15 to Decem The possibility of setting up a ber 23, 1951. Chilean "refugio" in this area was 'The depot was evacuated on De investigated by the Commodore of cember 23, 1951, and all unused the Chilean expedition on the stores have been left for the needs "Pilato Pardo" during the first voy of future expeditions at the north age of the 1962-63 season, towards west edge or this nunatak. This de the end of December. On this oc pot was visited by *Bertil Ekstrom, casion the vessel penetrated as far as Stig Hallgren, Peter Melleby. Alan Marguerite Bay after a difficult voy Recce, Gordon Robin, Nils Roer, age due to the thick ice cover and Fred Roots, Valter Schytt, John the very restricted areas in which Snarby, Charles Swithinbank, Ove the ship could work. Later, with Wilson. Friis-Baastad and Kjellberg better weather and the help of ice observed this spot from the air on breakers and the supply-ships Yelcho and Lientur, it became much easier January* This was 18, ihe1951." advance base near the nuna- to transport the building materials lak they called Pyramiden. According lo ihe needed for the construction of the brief Russian observations, the co-ordi names shelter. are 72° 16'S., 3° 51'E. The depot had not Up till now, all the Chilean bases been snowed under and the boxes were only and outposts have been on the peri lightly powdered with snow. phery of the continent. The setting- One of the men who signed the note, Bertil up of the new shelter, the first Ekstrom, died tragically near ihe expedition's Chilean post south of the Antarctic main camp. Maudheim, in 1951. Another, Dr. Circle, will make it much easier, says Gordon de Q. Robin, is now Director of the a Chilean report, for Chilean ex Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge. plorers and scientists to extend their work "towards the South Pole." SEAS ON THE MAP The new post has been named after Captain Federico Guesalaga Five new seas have been identified who inaugurated Arturo Prat, the along the Antarctic shores between first Chilean base in the Antarctic. 0"° and 113° Longitude E. by Evgeny Present at the dedication ceremony Korotkevich and Vladimir Ledenev were Commodore don Eugenio of the Soviet Arctic and Antarctic Court; Commander don Tulio Rojas, Institute in Leningrad. On the basis captain of "Yelcho"; Commander of the latest studies, the Soviet scien don Luis de Los Rios, captain of tists have defined the boundaries "Lientur", the crews of the two ships of these seas, each with its own and the Leaders of the Chilean currents, winds and ice conditions. bases. They have suggested that one be called after Mikhail Lazarev, the second after the Norwegian explorer of Friendship", and the fifth "Aus Riser-Larsen, the third, "The Sea of tralian Mawson Sea", after the Aus Cosmonauts", the fourth, "The Sea tralian explorer. March, 1963.

Early Ice Break-up Hinders British Field Work Early break-up of the sea-ice, as a result of unusually high tem peratures and strong winds in October, has facilitated relief opera tions again this year, but hampered field work.

All bases except Halley Bay were Georgia a week later. Grytviken relieved before Christmas, supplies was reachetd on January 8 and the for Stonington Island and Fossil ship then visited Signy (the Bluff having been flown in from the "Shackleton" had been there 5 days Adelaide Island base. Flying condi previously) before relieving the tions have been very favourable on bases at Hope Bay and Deception the west side of Graham Land, but Island. The Argentine Islands persistent 10/10ths cloud on the east were, at that time, still hemmed in side has frustrated all efforts to by solid fast ice and mail and ur establish a summer party at about gent stores were unloaded at the ice 66°S. as planned. edge a few miles out. Conditions were better further SHIPS MOVEMENTS South and the Adelaide Island base R.R.S. "Shackleton" sailed from was reached without difficulty on the Falklands at the end of Novem December 22. The ship remained ber and landed a 3-man U.S.A.R.P. in Marguerite Bay for thn party (two of them ex-F.I.D.S./B.A.S. assisting survey parties wOuvmi men) on Bird Island, South off-shore islands and acting , Georgia, on December 1. Landing on radio-control for aircraft flying men the island is very difficult even in and supplies south to Stonington Is good weather, and rough seas forced land and Fossil Bluff. She then the ship to move off before unload went north to take on fuel from ing had been completed. She then M.V. "Kista Dan", and on the return relieved the base at Signy Island, South Orkneys, and spent a week journey to Adelaide spent several days at the Argentine Islands de carrying out sea-seismic measure ments before returning to Bird Is livering the bulk of the year's su land to continue unloading. plies. The next ports-of-call were Decep "KISTA DAN" tion Island (on December 24) and M.V. "Kista Dan" left Southamp Hope Bay (on December 29), both of ton on December 6 with men and which had been relieved by the "Bis supplies for Halley Bay. Ten tons coe" in the middle oft the month. A of explosives for the "Shackleton's" depot was then laid on the mainland seismic work and bunkers for the at the eastern end of the Prince Gus "Biscoe" were delivered at Deception tav Channel in preparation for on January 12, and the ship then further field work south of Hope went to Hope Bay to pick up dogs Bay. The ship returned to the Falk lor Halley Bay. After visiting the lands at the beginning of January, South Orkneys and South Georgia and two weeks later revisited South she turned south, keeping well over Georgia (including Bird Island) and to the east of the Weddell Sea, and Hope Bay. She then went south arrived at Halley Bay on January down the west coast to the Argentine 30. Unloading was completed in a Islands and completed two lines of few days and she was last reported sea-seismic measurements before re to be well on the way back to the turning to Deception. Falklands. "JOHN BISCOE" ICE TROUBLES ON THE R.R.S. "John Biscoe" arrived at EAST COAST the Falklands from the U.K. on Field work south of Hope Bay has November 27 and sailed for South ben hampered by the early break-up March, 1963. of the sea ice, resulting from strong menced in October, but the bulk of winds and unusually high tempera the supplies arrived on the "Biscoe" tures (the October average at Hope and were flown south in January. Bay was 29° F.—the highest ever re Depots were laid on the east coast corded for this month). for the summer party and several survey flights made before the The 5-man geological party which weather deteriorated in that area. had been trying to complete its work down the east coast of Graham Land had a hair-raising journey back IN GEORGE VI SOUND across the sea ice to Vievv Point, Duse Bay, in October and it is un likely that further sledging will be From mid-November onwards one possible in that area until the of the Survey's two Otter aircraft autumn. Field parties are, therefore, was stationed in George VI Sound now working on the west side of in support of the held parties. Trinity Peninsula. Several groups were at work simul taneously—including the sledge party As already mentioned, persistent from Adelaide and three men who bad weather has so far prevented arrived from Stonington in two Mus the establishment of Ken Blaiklock's kegs at the end of October. This summer survey party on the east year's tellurometer programme in coast, and even if it is eventually the Sound was completed at the end estabished much valuable time will of December and two of the sur have been lost. It will therefore be veyors then returned to Adelaide. impossible this year to link up the Good progress was made with the surveys extended southwards from geological survey in several areas Hope Bay with those carried out —chiefly on Alexander Island just further south by parties from Ston north of Fossil Bluff. ington. The Hope Bay base and the subsidiary View Point base are to Field work in the Tottan Moun remain open during the 1963 winter tains was not scheduled to com and will now be closed at the end mence until after the arrival of the of next summer. 'Kista Dan" at Halley Bay at the end of January, but a reconnaissance party left base for the Dawson-Lamb- THE WEST COAST ton glacier in the middle of the month. There is no further news from this area at present. Conditions have been much more favourable on the west side of the A number of journeys to Peter- peninsula. The survey of Adelaide man Island and the mainland have Island has progressed: a tellur- been undertaken from the Argentine ometer survey of the northern part Islands, Glaciological work has been of the island was completed in mid- carried out and several peaks climb October and the 4-man tellurometer ed. Routine scientific work continues at the Argentine Islands, as at all Partyoss'il flown Bluff with in George four dog VI teams Sound. to bases. The ionospheric equipment Meanwhile, on Adelaide several geo transferred from Port Lockroy last logical and topographical survey summer has been completely over parties filled in the details of the hauled and new high-frequency survey and, with the help of a naval rhombic antennae erected. hydrographic survey party from H.M.S. "Protector", extended it over At Signy Island, terrestrial ecology a number of off-shore islands and and sofiffuction phenomena studies reefs. Work started in late Decem have been continued. The new ber on the construction of a new liv marine biological survey of the area ing hut which had been taken in began with dredging and shore col by the "Biscoe." lecting, and the two frogmen have made several dives in Borge Bay. Flights to Fossil Bluff and Stoning Microbiological work is also now ton Island from Adelaide com under way. March. 1963. AMERICAN NAVY MAKES POSSIBLE WIDESPREAD SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH With a task-force of no fewer than 28 aeroplanes, 8 helicopters, 12 7assorted , .i l. vessels—ocean .L!_ "x?l+««;«" station onrl ships, onninmpnt icebreakers, cargo to match. ships, the U.S. Operation Deep Freeze 63 covers a lot of ground, sea and

Major projects over and above the BLOCKADE routine research, effected during this Never before in the seas of An 1962-63 season have been the estab tarctic conflict had so manv miles lishing of the new scientific support of pack-ice offered so much diffi station at the base of the Antarctic culty for so few returns. When the Peninsula, Eights Station, under the first ship group of Operation Deep baton of the U.S. Naval Support Freeze tried to get to Hut Point this Force, and the several major tra year, it found 63 miles of concen verses and field trips carried out by trated pack-ice blocking its ap University teams. proach. In the eight years of Deep Freeze no more than a maximum of 38 miles had previously occurred. E I G H T S S TAT I O N It was not until December 14 that the first break-through could be The Eights Station, named after effected. the first American scientist, almost As a result of this blockade, an the first scientist of any nationality even heavier load than usual was to visit Antarctica, way back in 1830, thrown upon air operations; fuel is to be a year-round scientific sup became short at the shore stations, port station, on the site of the tem which demanded airlifts of fuel from porary Ski-Hi Station set up last caches elsewhere on the continent, year. First a temporary runway and a number of ships wore out had to be built, then Hercules air propellers, damaged their hulls or craft came in with men and equip suffered engine damage. And para ment to erect this "trailer camp." The basis of the year-round home doxically enough, it was a storm which made the ships' task easier, and workshops for 12 men takes the bv setting hundreds of square miles form of 11 skid-mounted trailer vans, of ice in motion to open up cracks five of them for scientific purposes, in the channel. placed on timber foundations and linked with utility systems for heat, The United States Antarctic Re power and the like. search programme, the raison d'etre of the Deep Freeze Operation, con As well as transporting the vans ducts research at Bvrd. McMurdo, and buiding materials, laying down Pole and the ioint U.S.-N.Z. Hallett the foundations and installing the Station, as well as at Ellsworth and vans, the establishment of this Wilkes, now not log'stically support station entailed a trek across 585 ed by the United States; and also miles of uncharted ice and crevasses aboard the "Eltanin." The pro bv an eight-man party delivering a gramme covers eight major scien 74,0001b. bulldozer, three giant sleds tific disciplines—Biology, Carto- and further equipment. This party araDhv, Geology. Glaciology, Gravity left Byrd Station on December 21 to and Magnetics, Meteorology, Station play its part in the installation of Seismology and Upoer Atmosphere the station designed to support pro Physics continuously through the grammes in upper atmospheric vear, with concentrated activity dur studies, geomagnetism, aurora and ing each summer season. meteorology. March, 1963.

MOUNTAIN-HOPPING ting, the two teams could occupy four or five sites a day and measure MAPPERS about 100 miles. But in Topo West, Topographic engineers of the U.S. the leg of the traverse conducted in Geological Survey, leap-frogging Victoria Land, the group had just from peak to peak by turbine- nine full working days in a month. powered helicopter, have completed Three accurate position determinci- a 1500-mile geodetic survey aimed tions during thc traverse were made at providing accurate mapping of by daylight star observations, a tech over 80,000 square miles of rugged nique field-tested in the Antarctic Antarctic terrain. last year. The new method was made necessary becaue light from Working on wind-swept mountain the low Antarctic sun is refracted tops with temperatures as low as 25 degrees below zero the en when it passes through the earth's gineers established 68 ground con atmosphere, introducing: a varying trol points which, combined with degree of inaccuracv in solar ob aerial photography, will enabtle car servations. tographers to compile highly accur In addition to working in the face ate maps of the area covered. Seven of high winds and sub-zero temper times during the traverse major atures (all four men suffered vary storms interrupted the work, ground ing degrees of frostbite), the rarifie'd ing helicopters and pinning the men air at altitudes up to 13,000 feet often m their tents for as long as seven made work on the peaks exhausting. days at a time. During thc traverse, measurements The area covered by the project showed the Navy weather station included 40,000 square miles' in at Beardmore to be moving north north-eastern Victoria Land west of ward at 934 feet per year. The the U.S.-New Zealand Hallett Station, station, located on ice near the foot and an equivalent area extending of the Beardmore Glacier, is being from the foot of the Beardmore forced northward by the pressure Glacier eastward through the Queen of glacial ice. Maud and Horlick Mountains. The project, called Topo East and West, was a continuation of Topo NEW HERCULES North and South, a similar pro gramme which last season establish The supply role between the ed mapping control for over 100,000 United States, New Zealand and Mc square miles of Antarctica. Murdo, at present carried out bv Globemasters, may next summer be In carrying out the work helicop transferred to the C130E Lockheed ters landed teams of two engineers Hercules, an improved version of the with their equipment on two moun C130B, the Hercules now in service. tain peaks from 20-40 miles apart The new C130E has several advant and in sight of each other. With ages, including 10 tons more gross Electrotapes (electronic distance take-off weight, extra fuel tanks each measuring instruments accurate to holding 1360 gallons, rear loading at about two inches in 20 miles) they truck-deck height, ability to land and measured the distance between the take off using comparatively short peaks. They used theodolites to runways, and a relatively high speed measure the angles between front of over 300 miles per hour. and rear sites and to peaks perpen dicular to the traverse route. As a One of these aircraft was at check of accuracy each team dupli Christchurch Airport for three weeks cated the distance measurements. in November-December, with 18 mem bers of the 168th Air Transport Wing As the measurements were com of MATS the Military Air Transport pleted the first team boarded its sup Service. A task unit of this wing porting helicopter, flew past the will next season take over from the second site and occupied another 9th Troop Carrier Squadron which peak in the chain where the proce has been operating this service for dure was repeated. Weather permit the past four years. March, 1963.

manding Officer William H. Everett. HELICOPTERS LAND AT From the Pole the plane flew SOUTH POLE north on the meridian of Greenwich to 81° 20'S, 13"W, into the southern On February 4 three Iroquois reaches of Queen Maud Land, from turbo-driven helicopters which had where it headed south-eastward to been used in Topo East and West the Pole of Inaccessibility and on to landed safely at the South Pole after the Queen Elizabeth and Queen Alex a flight of 185 miles from Mt. andra Mountains near thc edge of Weaver. The operation was signifi the Ross Ice Shelf. The plane flew cant for three reasons. The machines down the Byrd Glacier, and on back were the smallest ever to land at the to McMurdo. station, they are believed to be the first helicopters to land at either Pole, and the successful conclusion of the flight promises extended heli SITE FOR NEW STATION? copter usage in future operations in the Antarctic. Once the helicopters landed at the The icebreaker "Staten Island" Pole it was planned beforehand that left Lyttelton on January 5 for the they would be stripped ready for Palmer Peninsula (Graham Land) loading aboard the Hercules in which region south of South America. they would be flown back to Mc Fifteen days later the vessel reach Murdo station. ed the area. The Army's Iroquois helicopter is One of her tasks is to conduct now the fourth type of aircraft to surveys of the area, and scientists land at the South Pole since the ad on board will report findings to the vent of aviation in the Antarctic in U.S. scientific headquarters at Mc 1928. Murdo Station. Previously a DC3 landed in Octo At the same time the "Staten Is- ber, 1956, with Rear Admiral G. Du and" will also seek a suitable site on fek, then there was a Neptune and the Palmer Peninsula for a perman the third was the Hercules. All three ent biological station to be estab operate with VX6 Squadron. lished during the 1963-64 Antarctic The Iroquois helicopter has a season. range of 400 miles and travels at Selection of a proper site will bc speeds of up to 120 knots. It is conducted by three men from the powered by a HOOhp engine jet- National Science Foundation, now geared through a power turbine and sailing on the icebreaker, and during reduction gears to the transmission its first year of operation will b< which drives the rotors. The machine is equipped with a fixed skid-type manned by five scientists. The bio logical station is expected to be one landing gear. of the major projects of the next Antarctic season. LONG FLIGHT Factors to be considered in site selection include accessibility, rich The longest non-stop flight in An ness in biological matter, land clear tarctic history was made on Febru enough to erect the required num ary 22, covering territory never be ber of buildings, area for a good- fore seen or charted by man. A U.S. sized boat or helicopter, and pos Navy C-130 Hercules recently fitted sibly an air-strip. with an internal bulk fuel delivery Expedition leader is Cdr. Price tank, made the 3600 mile flight from Lewis, Jr., and representing the the McMurdo base, south beyond the National Science Foundation are South Pole to the vicinity of thc John Crowell, marine biologist, Dr. Shackleton Mountain Range and W. Schmitt and veteran U.S. ex then south-eastward to the Pole of plorer Captain Edwin A. McDonald. Inaccessibility, returning to Mc After two months in the McMurdo Murdo in 10 hours, 40 minutes. area early in the season, "Staten Is Rear Admiral James R. Reedy rode land" returned to New Zealand in as an additional crew-member in the late December to make preparations plane piloted by Squadron Com for thc Antarctic Peninsula voyage. March. 1963.

"Staten Island" is expected to Mountains, was badly damaged. The complete her work in March and to aircraft carried a crew of six who return to Seattle in April via the waited 60 hours before a rescue west coast of South America. plane, a DC-3 from Byrd Station, ar rived and carried them to Byrd. MISHAPS The same day, a VX6 Squadron A report was published in our last helicopter was transferring a field issue of the near disaster at the head party of two geologists from one of the Davis Glacier, 145 miles north location to another in the Wright west of Scott Base, when an Ameri Dry Valley. As the helicopter was can DC-3 was evacuating the New settling down it "practically disinte Zealand motor-toboggan party, and grated" as the result of ground re brief reference was made to two sonance (uncontrolled vibration set other mishaps to United States air in motion on landing). The pilot, craft about the same time. We now Lieut-Cdr. R. H. Spencer, suffered have some details of these latter scalp lacerations. The two scientists occurrences. and a crewman on board extricated About 8.30 a.m. on November 22, the injured pilot and put him into a a DC-3 on a supply mission to the sleeping bag, then summoned assist geological survey party working in ance from McMurdo. Later, all were the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth picked up by helicopter.

SCIENTISTS MAKE OVER-SNOW TRAVERSES

Traversing has been the order of travelled almost 200 miles, past the day for several groups of United Roosevelt Island, to 82°S, 167°W, and States scientists in Antarctica this from this point back to Camp Michi gan, where they were picked up by a C-47 plane and returned to Mc Six members of a University of Murdo on January 27. Michigan glaciological research party under Walter Hofman spent 88 days POLE TO POLE during 32 of which they were con The University of Wisconsin also fined lo camp, thanks to blizzards, fielded a traverse party this season. blowing snow or fog, on an 860 mile This eight-man party travelled some motor-toboggan tour of the Ross Ice 950 miles in 48 days, occupying 25 Shelf. The purpose of this traverse major scientific stations and seven was to remeasure ice movement to 10 minor ones during its tour. stakes set out in 1957 and snow ac With the assistance of three Sno- cumulation stakes dating from 1959, Cats, the team completed one of the and to make snow density and ice most successful seismic studies ever strain studies at the same time. conducted on the Antarctic Plateau, From information gathered, it is beginning and ending at the Pole. hoped to ascertain whether the seven The expedition was conducted in two million cubic-mile ice sheet is in sections with a return to the Pole creasing or decreasing in size. for fuel dividing the two sections. The track of each leg of the traverse The team left McMurdo in two described a "pie-segment", the first sections on November 1 and 3, and in the direction of the Queen Maud travelled eastward along the sea Range, the second toward the Hor ward side of the ice-shelf almost 400 lick Mountains. As well as seismic miles to Camp Michigan near the research, gravity and magnetic Bay of Whales (Camp Michigan was studies were made, surface eleva established by Dr. James Zumberge tions measured and geological in 1957). Here they turned south and studies of the ice surface conducted. March, 1963.

Leader of the team was sourdough second Bvrd Antarctic Expedition in Edwin S. Robinson, on his third trip 1933-35, senior scientist with the U.S. to and fourth traverse in Antarctica. Antarctic Service expedition in 1939- Accompanying him were three more 41 and in 1962-63 spent two months scientists, two traverse engineers and studying the geology of the Antarc a journalist who offered his services tic Horst in the vicinity of the as cook. Shackleton Glacier. Dr. Wade and his two companions aroused sur prise, then worry, then panic stations back at McMurdo Sound when con WORLD'S SOUTHERNMOST tinued silence for a week hid their ROCKS well-being and whereabouts from would-be listeners. VX-6 sent an R4D Four geologists (leader George to search for the party and after a Doumani) from Ohio State Uni lengthy search it was located mind versity were at work from Novem ing its own business in the pre ber 1 a mere 200 miles from the scribed area. The radio silence was South Pole, in the Queen Maud then discovered to have been caused Mountains in the vicinity of Mts. by the failure of the newly-intro Weaver and Howe. Mt. Weaver duced sled radio to derive enough (about 10,000 ft.) had been visited power from the sled's motor to once before some 30 years ago, Mt. transmit its signals any great dis Howe never. tance. An old-fashioned, but tried- Not only did this party collect and-lrue battery-powered radio was rock specimens, search for fossils dropped to Dr. Wade, plus three and coal seams, carry out detai.ed drums of fuel just in case, and the geologic mapping and study the mystery of his silence was solved. stratigraphy and geomorphology of The three men were taken to the rock outcrops jutting through the foot of the glacier by U.S. Navy DC-3 polar ice-cap, but it also discovered on October 23. Using two motor to "decidedly the southernmost volcano boggans towing sledges loaded with (extinct) in the world," to the south supplies, they worked their way 35 of Mt. Weaver, itself only 200 miles miles up the west side of the glacier, from the southernmost point of the studying rock outcrops collecting globe. samples, and measuring strati- The party spent nine days on Mt. graphic sections in sedimentary Weaver, and reached the summit on rocks on the way. On December 13 December 29 after two earlier at the men crossed the glacier and tempts. They reached the summit worked their way to its foot on De of Mt. Howe—by helicopter. cember 26. They were picked up by Turbine helicopters assisted this a Navy C-130 four days later and party to carry out in a few days in returned to McMurdo. vestigations which would, on foot and motor toboggan, have taken a month or more. The helicopters were primarily being used by topo PATUXENT RANGE graphical engineers in order to carry EXPLORED out a geodetic traverse. When this traverse neared the Ohio party's Four geologists, a glaciologist, and camp at Mt. Weaver, the helicopters a topographic engineer, all of the were able to assist that party in its U.S. Geological Survey returned to geological work. McMurdo on February 13 after the first probe deep into the Patuxent Range of the Pensacola Mountains, 300 miles from the South Pole and VETERAN TRAVERSER 1100 miles from McMurdo. An Antarctic veteran of some The 7,000-foot mountains, which three dcades has also again been in jut starkly 3,000 feet above the sur the snow fields of the southern con rounding ice-cap, were photographed tinent. Dr. F. Alton Wade, professor for the first time from an LP2J Navy of geology at Texas Technological aircraft during the 1961-62 Antarctic College, was a geologist with the season. The Pensacolas are a

■ ^ u ^ r March, 1963. source of geological interest because Glaciological work was done by they apparently lie near the junction Walter W. Boyd, a glaciologist who of Antarctica's two great mountain wintered at Little America during chains. One is the Trans Antarctic the IGY. He determined that the Mountains which extend almost 2,000 mean annual temperature of the area miles in a shallow S-shape curve is about 28° below zero. from Cape Adare in Victoria Land, southward along the Ross Ice Shelf and eastward through the Horlick M A R B L E P O I N T and Thiel Mountains to the Pensa- colas and beyond. The other is the No scientific but economic mo Antarctic continuation of the South tives prompted yet another notable American Andes which extends down traverse by which "Featherfoot", the Palmer Peninsula and curves Army Chief Warrant Oflicer George south-eastward toward the Pensa- Fowler, and his U.S. Antarctic Tra colas. verse Party reclaimed more than The northern end of the Pensa- 300,000 dollars' worth of supplies and colas was photographed and visited equipment from the "weather- briefly during the International Geo struck" standby camp at Marble physical Year (IGY) 1957-59. Point and carried it back 45 miles The party under Dr. Arthur B. to McMurdo station. As well as re Ford was airlifted to the isolated establishing the camp as a survival area by a Hercules after a reconnais point for future traverses, the party sance flight and landing by an LC- also located and assisted in the air 47H. Using a wood and canvas hut lifting of a fuel cache of 150 fifty- as their base camp, the men ranged five gallon drums of fuel oil to re as far as 70 miles away on three lieve the temporary fuel reserve motor toboggans. They camped in shortage at McMurdo. tents while remaining away from their base for as much as a month at a time. "ELTANIN" Geologists in the party investi The Antarctic Research ship U.S. gated the relationships between the Patuxent Range and other mountains N.S. "Eltanin" made her first Antarc to the east and to the north-west. tic cruise in July-September, 1962, in "We found the mountains in the area the waters of the Drake Passage be to be mostly made up of highly tween Cape Horn and the northern folded and unfossiliferous sediment end of the Antarctic Peninsula, con ducting studies in biology (insect ary rocks—sand-stones and shales," said Dr. Ford. "Because the rocks dispersal, phytoplankton, marine lacked fossils of any kind they could life); in crustal geophysics, geology be either very ancient rocks deposit (from the sea bottom of the Drake ed before the evolution of organisms Passage), meteorology, oceanography with hard parts or younger rocks de and upper-atmosphere physics. posited in an environment not com patible with the growth of organic matter. We're inclined to think they TO LET YOU KNOW are older rocks." The National Science Foundation, Nowhere did the geologists find which funds and administers the crystalline basement" rocks which U.S. Antarctic Research Programme are characteristically found in other (U.S.A.R.P.), has created an In ranges of the Transantarctic Moun formation Office to carry out its tains. These rocks could be hidden responsibilities as the clearing house by the thousands of feet of ice which and source of information on the hide the major bulk of the moun Antarctic. Information-oriented pro tains. jects sponsored by U.S.A.R.P. in On a few nunataks the group did clude, in various early stages of de find in beacon sandstone fossil velopment, a Monograph series, a leaves and twigs, including glossop- Map Folio series, and a Bibliography. teris, a plant representative of the The Information Office is part of the late paleozoic era, some 200 million Foundation's Office of Antarctic Pro years ago. grammes. March, 1963. MORE ABOUT THOSE WARM LAKES We do not seem to have heard the last word yet about the warm water in some of the lakes in the Dry Valley area west of McMurdo Sound. (See "Antarctic," September, 1962, p. 102).

Dr. R. A. Ragotskie and Dr. G. E. SOLAR RADIATION TOO? Likens, two University of Wisconsin scientists, believe that the water at The scientists drilled 20 holes the bottom of permanently frozen through the thick blue ice of the Lake Vanda is being heated by the lakes during their research. Their ground beneath it. This water at findings indicate that water in the tains a temperature of 80 degrees. upper kvyers of both lakes is being The lake, three and a half miles heated by solar radiation. long, one mile wide and 218 feet Of the radiant energy striking the deep, is covered by ice 12 to 15 feet ice surface, slightly more than 50 thick. The high temperature bot per cent, is lost by direct reflection. tom water in the lake was lirst re Part of thc remainder passes ported by a University of Kansas through the ice and heals the upper research group in 1960. layers of water, part is used to melt Dr. Likens said that instruments the ice and part serves to evaporate showed an increase in temperature ice from the surface. own ward through the bottom When the two lakes are in direct water and into the bottom sediment, sunlight, the net flow of heal from and that the heat was flowing up absorbed sunlight is downwarc ward into the lake water. through the ice. When the lakes art shaded by clouds or by border Dr. Ragotskie, associate professor mountains the net flow of heat is of meteorology at Wisconsin, said reversed. there was a good possibility of some thermal activity under the Dr. Likens said the net effect of noor of the lake and that this might these opposite heat flows has not je the source of the unusually high yet been evaluated but that the bottom water temperatures. amount of heat in Lake Vanda could not be explained by this pro cess alone. LAKE BONNEY During the winter months, when all of Antarctica is in darkness, heat The research team has been mak flows out through the ice and into the ing a study of Lake Vanda and Lake atmosphere, making the lakes much Bonney, another frozen lake 17 colder and the ice thicken. No win miles away, under a grant from the ter research has been carried out National Science Foundation. on the lakes due to the difficulty Lake Bonney, located in Taylor and danger involved in similar opera Valley, is about 100 feet shallower tions then. than Vanda, and does not contain a Further analysis of data and water similar warm layer of bottom water. samples collected from the two Both lakes contain an upper layer lakes will be carried out at the Uni- of fresh water and a bottom layer of vesity of Wisconsin. salt water. In both the water tem perature increases for the first 30-45 feet down, reaching about 47 degrees DRY VALLEY LAB Fahrenheit at a depth of 45 feet dur A fully self-contained pre-fabri- ing the summer. cated laboratory with heat, elec In Lake Bonney, however, the tem tricity and plumbing has recently perature decreases to about 28 de been constructed by the United grees near the bottom. In Lake States Antarctic Research Pro Vanda the temperature stabilises at gramme in the Taylor Dry Valley, 47 degrees through a mixed middle an area also visited by two Victoria layer and then increases to a tepid University of Wellington (N.Z.) 80 degrees near the bottom. parties this season. March. 1963.

PENGUIN NAVIGATION McMURDO Having "the sun in the morning Some idea of the right of Mc and the (sun) at night" may prove Murdo to be regarded as a Town is to mean an awful lot to the Adelie given by the following list of trans port facilities: Genguinniversity which, of Wisconsin according ornitholo to two Tr u c k s 2 2 Tractors 40 gists, Dr. John T. Emlen and Richard Weasels 29 Sno-Cats / L. Penney, uses the sun as a naviga Nod wells 6 Polecat 1 tional homing aid, steering a less Fork-lifts 9 Pettibones 4 direct course on overcast days than A total of 118 vehicles: this, of on clear. An internal "clock" must course, in addition to the 10 vehicles tell the penguin that the sun should at Hallett, 8 at the Pole and 23 at be in a certain position at a certain Bvrd. time, thus allowing it to correct for There is a 5-bed hospital, a doctor apparent movement of the sun and and a dentist. travel a straight, not curved, path Radio transmitters number 111. The two men used 100 Adelies, mostly from Cape Crozier, in field experiments. They released birds Last year, from October 1961 to 180 miles out on the Ross Ice Shelf, October 1962, was one of the coldest in Victoria Land 290 miles west of on record, with McMurdo tempera McMurdo and near Byrd Station tures ranging from —37° in October over 850 miles east of McMurdo. The 1961 to —28/° in March 1962 and again first which returned to Cape Crozier to —42° in September that year. from the Ice Shelf covered the 180 Maximum highs were recorded, with miles in about a month, about 6 November 1961 and June 1962 being miles a day. the warmest on record while Decem ber 1961 brought near sun-bathing ON EREBUS weather at +36°. Dr. Fiorenzo Ugolini is an Italian working in Antarctica for Rutgers UNDISTINGUISHED University. He is interested in soils. VISITOR His scientific curiosity and sense of adventure led him to the con A small mongrel bitch returned clusion that he must get soil samples to Christchurch on January 8 after from Mt. Erebus. a pleasant three weeks in McMurdo So with a mountain climber from Sound. Vienna, and an Englishman, he "Orville" was originally found climbed the mountain in a two-day wandering around the United States battle against cold, snow, wind and Navy Antarctic advance head altitude. quarters at Harewood. Sailors At one point on the way back, thought she was a stray and decided they stumbled across a snow bridge to give her a little affection and a which threatened to give way. Roped holiday. together, they shouted at each other In the Antarctic Orville stayed at in their three native languages for the Williams Field camp. She en long moments before they calmed joyed the care and attention of down enough to speak the one lan various VX6 squadron crews with guage which they all knew—English. whom she shared quarters. The men fed her on a diet of fish and eggs. One highlight of the holiday for Orville was a meeting with some of Thirty years ago a wooden _ auxi the huskies from Scott Base. Or liary ship carried Admiral Richard ville escaped by bounding indoors. E. Byrd to Antarctica, a feat she Her owner vvas traced from the repeated six years later. Now she is number on her collar. She returned to be towed to Philadelphia, re- to Christchurch aboard a United rigged as the barquentine she had States Navy Hercules aircraft, and is once been and converted to a res believed to have travelled south the taurant and maritime museum. same way. March. 1963. NEW ZEALAND GEOLOGISTS WITH

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[Dr. Bernard M. Gunn of the University of Otago, who has been a member of several New Zealand Antarctic expeditions beginning with thc preliminary reconnaissance (1955-56) for the Ross Sea section of the Trans-Antarctic Expedition, and the T.A.E. itself, has been working this summer with the support of the U.S. Antarctic Research Program. His companion has been I. G. Wilson, another New Zealand mountaineer, who was a member of the N.Z. Geological and Survey Expedition. 1958-59. Dr. Gunn has kindly sent us, by request, this account of their summer's work.—Ed.]

"We left New Zealand on Nov. 22. worked round the western end of On the 24th Jim Wilson and I were the Kukri Hills, made an ascent and lifted by helicopter flown by Lt. then crossed to the Emmanuel Cash over to Round Mountain in the Glacier. Previously we merely had upper Taylor Valley, halting at the to guide our sled down-glacier but Knobhead moraine en route to de on this last day the route was up posit half of the ration cartons. After hill with many glacial troughs and a preliminary look at the base of moraines to be crossed. Leaving the Round Mountain we climbed it the pyramid tent below the first bluff following day from the west, collect on the Emmanuel Glacier we climb ing dolerite samples at intervals. It ed 3,000 ft. to the broad ridge above proved to be undifferentiated, though the bluffs and tramped through the summit at about 8,500 ft. is more miles of new soft snow and break than 3,000 above the base. able crust to camp under The Pimple.

"Leaving the pyramid tent we back- packed over a pass near St. Paul's MT. LISTER CLIMBED Mt. which we accordingly named Ephesus Pass, and down a broad "From the west, Mt. Lister, which moraine-littered dry hanging valley rises 5 miles south of the Pimple, ap to be called Galatia Valley. We put pears to be a three-tiered wedding up our little red Meade tent on the caket with our camp above the first rim of the Wright Valley above Lake tier down which the great Emmanuel Vanda. We sampled both sills in icefall cascades. On December 23 we the Wright Valley, both being strong set off wearing our ordinary boots ly differentiated, and descended and crampons but carrying mukluks 5,000 ft. to a salina pond at the for emergency. After skirting the snout of a rock-covered glacier in Emmanuel Neve for a couple of the south fork of the Wright Valley. miles we kicked up 3,000 ft. of soft The pond is intensely saline with a snow and ice up the crevassed face great thickness of halite and gypsum of the second tier of the cake. This crystals up to 5cm across. face is quite heavily crevassed and routes were fairly restricted. Above this we found ourselves on the "Returning to the Taylor Valley in Pimple Plateau, a four-mile long a snowstorm we continued collect ridge about a mile in width which ing dolerite samples, climbing North lies between Mt. Pimple and Mt. west Mountain and Finger Mountain Lister. We trudged along this for where we found a cairn and a note hours and toiled up the last 3,000 ft left bv Fio Ugolini and Keith Wise in up a crevassed ice bulge which des 1962. ' We then crossed to Solitary cends into the Lister Glacier, a tribu Rocks and collected from Solitary tary of the Blue. Valley and the Arena Valley and then "to New Mountain and Mt. Ter "We reached the summit, a narrow racotta. We made the first ascent blade-like ridge of snow, at 0650, and of the latter directly up the face. built a small cairn on the rocks im After restocking at the depot we mediately below. The afternoon March, 1963.

phys.) but the difference is trivial. >rodigious high mountains ~. ..~ e.^.at technical difficulty but Hooker, Rucker and Huggins were remote of access." visible. Mount Lister has been a standing "Back down on the Pimple Plateau challenge to climbers for many and enveloped in cloud the visibility vears because the Royal Society was only a few yards and drifting Range dominates the mainland area snow had covered our tracks often at the head of McMurdo Sound. tor distances of 50 yards at a time. Once down the middle tier however "It was high time the mountain we were below cloud and we reach was climbed," Gunn and Wilson said ed the red tent at 3 a.m. after a on their return to McMurdo Sound 20hr. climb, and returned lo the station at the end of the week. floor of the valley in the following afternoon. The strain of track finding caused both to suffer from partial snow blindness after the climb and Gunn "On the 29th a helicopter piloted had to remove his boots twice to by Garv Maaske came out to pick revive his toes from the danger of us up but burnt out the motor on frostbite in temperatures estimated arrival. We could not contact base at more than 40 degrees of frost. either on the field radio or on the radio on the chopper but were final ly located by the back-un Otter and at 7 p.m. I also managed to contact McMurdo Radio and after that kept WEATHER ROCKETS half hour schedules. A helicopter Rockets are in regular use in An was flown up from the Beardmore tarctica, being fired weekly from Mc and after mechanics had pronounced Murdo as meteorological probes de our helicopter unserviceable we all signed to reveal air temperatures returned to McMurdo on the one and wind profiles more than 40 machine. miles above. Knowledge of these aspects of meteorology has been largely theo retical. Computations have been THE SPOILS made to predict the values of pre viously unknown south-bound winds "We brought back about 4001b. of high in the Antarctic atmosphere, dolerites from 12 different cross sec but researchers need actual syste tions of dolerite sills. Six of these matic measurements, made simul were strongly differentiated with taneously with similar measurements layers of coarse hypersthene doler over other regions of the globe. ite near the base and layers of Hence thc current rocket pro coarse-erained pegmatoid ' usually gramme, equipped with newly-modi about 10ft. but in one case 40ft. thick fied rockets. near the top. These pegmatoids were formed of pyroxene crystals usually about 4ins. long. Pink elephants are one thing, but pink albatrosses are quite legitimate "There is some doubt as to for perception. Wandering alba whether we can claim to have climb trosses on Bird Island are being ed the highest Deak yet ascended dyed pink that their species' oceanic- in Antarctica. Mt. Lister is some distribution may be studied, just as what over 4,000m., it usuallv being adelie penguins, south polar skuas, accorded the heisht of 13,353 ft. com giant pintedo and snow petrels, pared with a height of 13,156 ft. for amongst other varieties of birds, Mt. Nansen climbed by Herbert and have already been banded and their Otwav. However Herbert estimated movements round the oceans and that Mt. Nansen is somewhat higher continent plotted. March, 1963.

NEW ZEALANDERS INSTRUCT AMERICANS IN ICE WORK THE WHALERS A United States Antarctic Re FACTORY SHIP HOLED search Programme news release in November said that American field It was reported on February 1 that activities would be safer in 1962-63 the Norwegian whaling refinery ship as a result of the work of six New Sir James Clark Ross had been Zealanders. holed by ice in Antarctic waters and was making for Capetown, leaking he six, all experienced snow and badly. She was accompanied by ice climbers and some widely experi chasers. enced in rock climbing, instructed The whaling expedition has been USARP scientists and Army and abandoned. Navy helicopter crews in the funda mental safe practice requirements for travelling in ice and snow WHALING COMMISSION country. The Scientific Committee of the For three and a half hours each International Whaling Commission morning and afternoon, the instruc met at Seattle, U.S.A., from Dccenv tors put the scientific and Naval Sup ber 6 to 19. The main objective of port Force personnel through the conference was to make an as strenuous instruction and practice sessment of the number of whales exercises on wind-blown snow slopes which can be taken in the Antarctic and ice walls north of Scott Base. without endangering present stocks. Each group underwent training for A report from New York dated an average of two days. January 4 stated that the Inter Leader of the group was Lieut. L. national Whaling Commission, of D. Bridge, Army Headquarters. Wel which Australia and New Zealand lington. Past president of the Feder are members, would be asked next ated Mountain Clubs of New Zea April for a drastic cut in the annual land, he has wide experience in catch of blue and humpback whales climbing in New Zealand, the Bri from the Antarctic. tish Isles, and in the Antarctic. Marine biologist, Professor Johan Working with him were P. G. Ruud, Rector of Oslo University, Gardner, Norman Hardie, W. CroII. said that the committee had agreed Douglas Ball, and M. A. Nolan, all to make such a recommendation. New Zealanders with wide climb'ng Professor Ruud was the Norwegian experience and members of the delegate at the committee's sessions. Federated Mountain Clubs of New The situation with blue and hump Zealand. back whales in the Antarctic was About 45 men received instruction fairly serious but fin whales were in the principal requirements of in a better state, he said. snow and ice climbing, crevasse ex The committee had not reached a traction and rescue, and practice in these techniques. groups, evolved into one of preven Training was carried out in all but tion of mishaps as well as one of the most severe weather, and on at rescue. least one day the temperature at the Each of the New Zealand instruc training site was about minus 45 tors spent three weeks in the Antarc degrees. The National Science Foundation tic, with terms overlapping to pro asked the Antarctic Division of the vide continuity of training. All served Division of Scientific and Industrial in a voluntary capacity, and some spent their annual leave in the work. Research, New Zealand, for help in "One of the most important as setting up a programme of snow and ice climbing training for scien pects of the programme," Lieut. tific personnel. Bridge said, "is that it is, in a small way, a means of reciprocating the The programme, by including the service of the U.S. for its help in training of field party members as N e w Z e a l a n d ' s A n t a r c t i c p r o well as members of air rescue gramme." March, 1963.

decision on its preservation recom mendation to the I.W.C. which SANAE REPORTS would meet in London on April 1, A ROUND-UP because all of the necessary figures had not yet been compiled. (Mails seem to come slowly from But, he said, thc committee expect South Africa, and the following notes ed to give a final recommendation cover a period of several months). —a drastic cut in the annual take of whale stocks—by April 1. VISIT TO NORWAY STATION NO AGREEMENT YET On the 21st of August Messrs. D. Olivier. S. Kavanagh, F. du Preez and Thc London "Times" correspond M. du Preez visited the old Norway ent reported from Oslo on December 9 that the international conference Station to collect buiding material, paint, oscilloscope and tractor parts. on arrangements for the control of Due to recent snowfalls the journey Antarctic whaling was not likely to took about 3 hours each way (15 take place before the soring. The miles). The snow is still settling conference was originally arranged and sinks down lower at Norway for October 1962 in Moscow, but was Station. However all the corridors postponed at the request of the Rus sians until the agreement on the and entrances are readily usable. division of the quota for the whaling catch had been ratified. HUSKY TRAINING Japan, the United Kingdom and At the end of August the dogs were Norway have ratified the agreement. let out in pairs to run about for ex The Netherlands was to ratify in ercise. Eight dogs had already been January. Russia's position is not inspanned for their first short run known. of 4 km. Guido, one of the pups After the Dutch ratification the bred at Ondcrstepoort in 1961, seems whaling countries are expected to to be very intelligent and is a strong approach Moscow for fixing a date candidate for thc leader positions. for the conference on international The other dog "Koffie" has grown inspection. Russia did accept such very well and also holds his own inspection in principle this summer, against the older dogs. The two but the system and the details have voung bitches are smaller. to be agreed upon. Martin du Preez reported in Octo ber that things were going well at SANAE. Thc men were healthy and ARGENTINA QUITS in good spirits and the work pro ELLSWORTH ceeding as planned. The only com plaint was really that there was not Argentina will not put a wintering- enough time in which to do all thc over party into Ellsworth Station work they would like to undertake. this year. This has,' of course, a familiar ring Ellsworth was built by the United in these regions, especially from States for the International Geo those men who can only complete physical Year, in 1957. Two years certain parts of their programmes later the operational control of the during the all too short summer sea station was transferred to the Argen son. Among these are the geologists, tine Government, and since then the glaciologists, surveyors and biolo scientific programme has been or gists. ganised and carried out by the Insti Apart from the planned trips to tuto Antartico Argentino with logis the mountain region, a few shorter tic support by the Argentine Navy. iournevs were being prepared, main Each vear one or more American ly to the coastal area. As many as meteorologists and usually an Ameri nossible of the personnel who can can upper atmosphere physicist have be spared at the station will take participated in the station scientific part in these excursions to give programme. everybody where possible a chance Most of the equipment will be left to get away from the station after at Ellsworth for possible future use. thc long winter months. March, 1963.

Japanese Antarctic Base May Be Reopened Japanese scientists and others interested in Antarctic research are fighting a battle royal to ensure the re-opening of Showa Base in time for the commencement of the Year of the Quiet Sun.

Mr. M. Murayama, leader of_ the PRESSURE MOUNTS wintering Japanese teams, 1959-60 The Government closed Showa and 1961-62, Mr. Y. Nakasone, late base in February, said Mr. Muray minister of the Department of ama, but in the meantime pressure Science and Technology, and Mr. T. had been brought to bear from many Hasegawa, chief of the cultural quarters for the recommencement bureau of the Liberal Democratic of scientific work. Showa had been Party (the party in power), were in sealed in such a way that it could vited to visit the United States Mc be reopened at once within the next Murdo and Byrd stations in the lat five years, and there were stocks and ter half of November, 1962. under fuel' Showa enough base for was 10 men. built specifically the auspices of the Pan-American Science Foundation. They also visit for the International Geophysical ed New Zealand's Scott Base. Mr. Year, and much interesting scientific Nakasone who is one of the most work has been carried out since. It active politicians in the party in is now recognised that the base power, is very emphatic about the should be reopened and that these necessity of re-opening the Japanese useful studies be continued for the base on Ongul Island. benefit of our scientists and for those of the other Antarctic Treaty Mr. Murayama, interviewed in nations," he said. Christchurch, New Zealand, on An automatic meteorological ob November 18, said that the two serving tower was carrying out rou Japanese Government members with tine work, and this could go on un him had several decisions to make. til next March or even later. One was whether Japan should build Scott Base was very similar in size a new ice-breaker or consider char to Showa. His visit to Scott Base tering one from one of the Antarctic was primarily to see how the scien Treaty nations. In addition, he said, tists lived and worked and to study the Japanese team wanted to study something of the scientific research methods of co-operation between the they were carrying out. American Navy and its scientists, the The three men were accompanied nuclear reactor at McMurdo station, by two cameramen of the Japanese and operational methods at Scott Education Ministry's television ser- Base. SHOWA MUST LIVE AGAIN! The three Japanese spent two The Liberal Democratic Party held weeks in the Antarctic as guests of a joint meeting on December 11 with the United States Government. After the Ministry of Education and the wards the two Government repre Department of Science and Tech sentatives were to begin to formu nology, and the following four de late their recommendations. Mr. mands to the Diet were decided: Nakasone said that the Budget for (1) Showa station must be re the next fiscal year would be pre opened ; pared by the end of December. "If (2) the station will be occupied we can get the money we need, it semi-permanen tly; will enable us to prepare for the re (3) re-opening will be scheduled for opening of Showa base," he said. 1964, at latest 1965, to be in March, 1963.

time for the Year of the Quiet Sun. 1965-66; MORE VETERANS (4) the initiative to formulate the PASS budget will be taken by the Ministry of Education. We regret to announce the death of two American Antarctic veterans. THE NEW JARE CARL R. EKLUND The Ministry of Education has pre After a distinguished career with pared to put in a request for the the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, appropriation. The conception of and war service, Carl Eklund in 1939- the new JARE is as follows:— 41 made with Finn Ronne, a notable (1) Construction of a powerful journey from the East Base of the ice-breaker of 5,000 tons, with U.S. Antarctic Service Expedition on 10,000 h.p. diesel-electric en- Stonington Island off the Antarctic Peninsula dog-sledging the whole fine, at a cost of about 3,100,000; length of King George VI Sound and !) Purchase of three Shikolsky 61 proving that "Alexander I Land" is gas-turbine helicopters, at a total cost of about £1,230,000; really an island. They had sledged, largely in completely unknown (3) Repair and purchase of re country, 1264 miles in 84 days. search equipment; about Dr. Eklund was scientific leader £400,000. at Wilkes Station in 1957-58. By this (4) Wintering team 1964-65 or 65- time he was well-known as a world 66 will consist of 16 men. authority on Antarctic bird-life, The Polar Division of the National especially the skua. He was one of Science Museum will grow to De thc initiators of the extensive bird- partment status in order to be the banding programme now in opera centre of polar studies in Japan. tion. As the "Bulletin" of the U.S. An tarctic Projects Officer well says: VICTORY? "For all his accomplishments Dr. Ek A Press report from Tokyo dated lund wore his learning lightly. To all who knew him, he will remain the February 5 said that the Japanese gay-hearted gentleman ready with a Defence Agency would build and droll story and an infectious laugh operate a new ice-breaker which would carry Japan's 1965 expedition to cheer any gathering large or to the Antarctic for participation in small." international scientific research. Carl Eklund died of a heart attack This had been dcided that day at on November 4. a meeting in Tokio of Government HAROLD I. JUNE officials and agencies concerned. The meeting directed the Japanese Harold June, a member of Byrd's Defence Agency to construct and 1928-30 and 1933-35 expeditions, died operate the new icebreaker, on the on November 22 at the age of 67. He condition that this did not disturb was second pilot and radio mechanic Japan's defence build up programme. on Byrd's famous flight over the South Pole in 1929. In Byrd's second expedition, as chief pilot he defined MARINE SURVEY the eastern shore of the Ross Ice Shelf in a 770 mile Condor flight, Meanwhile the Science Council has and in other flights reached 360 decided to send two oceanographers. miles north-east of Little America, Dr. S. Fukose of Nagasaki Marine beyond 145°W. and 448 miles east of Observatory and Dr. Y. Sugimura of the base, beyond 135°. Byrd called the Meteorological Institute to par him "a reliable flight commander, ticipate in a joint marine survey with cool and practical." the United States and Argentina In the Navy, he attained the rank round the South Shetland Islands. of Chief Aviation Pilot, the highest The Japanese scientists left Tokyo by rank which could be obtained by an air on February 3. enlisted man. March, 1963.

Developments in the Sub-Antarctic

M A C Q U A R I E I S L A N D grains. She bored down in two places as far as 16 feet. These grains The 16-man party to man the provide a guide to the island's veg station during 1963 sailed from Mel etation of several thousand years bourne on November 30, in the ago. Dr. Duigan gained her Ph.D. "Thala Dan." degre at Cambridge seven years ago. An Army group took three am Dr. Lowe was born in West Vir- phibious "DUKWs" to land stores g:nia, U.S.A., and came to Australia and equipment. Two women botan two and a half years ago to lecture ists, two Army cadets, two Sea in zoology. She is an authority on Scouts and two Queens scouts ac Crustacea and her purpose in visiting companied the expedition. Macquarie Island was "to look for Macquarie Island was a land of relatives of the common yabby" and contrasts during January with for isopods which she is studying in glorious sunny days as warm as 50° Australia. Dr. Lowe graduated Ph.D. and cool westerly winds up to 83 from Tulane University, New Or m.p.h., the latter following an al leans. most record low barometric pres sure of 954 millibars. A couple of The two women slept on board auroras had lit up the sky. "Thala Dan" and travelled the 500 The building programme was pro yards to shore daily by DUWK. It ceeding and the new garage was was light from 3 a.m. to about 10 complete save for the installation p.m. but the temperature was in the of a new lathe and emergency low 40's and the winds were strong. power plant. An auroral hut was erected. Two biologists made a ten-day trip lo Hurd Point. Purchase paid a I L E S C R O Z E T twice-weekly visit to the Royal Pen guins at Baeuer Bay following the (France) banding of over 700 chicks earlier in the month. Alfred Faure, leader of the Terre Interest is being shown in the his Adelie wintering party, 1960, will this tory of the island. The old engine room and power house installed by year lead a 12-man parly which will spend 40 days on the Crozet Islands, Mawson in 1911 has been excavated where he also spent the previous with the intention of setting the summer. His team will inslal an whole unit in concrete. Ships' wreck automatic weather station and a age is being searched for worthwhile relics to be kept around the station cable railway between the landing- as grim reminders of wilder times place and the plateau on which it is proposed to erect a winter station along these now peaceful shores. in 1964. Forty-two tons of equipment were TWO WOMEN landed on the beach at la Clique du Navire, Possession Island, in Decem ber 1961, as well as seven metal huts, The two women scientists who and a party of 13 men spent 40 days spent six days on Macquarie Island on the island carrying out work in during the change-over were Dr. geodesy and the natural sciences as Suzanne Duigan and Dr. Eileen well as prospecting for a site for the Lowe. permanent station. This investiga Dr. Duigan of Geelong is doing re tion suggested that there was no search on on pollens pollens at at Melbourne Melbourne\lni- Uni suitable site on the marshy coast and versityversitv and during her stay on the that the station would have to be island she collected 70 or 80 samples built on a plateau 134 metres above of peat to examine for fossil pollen sea-level. March, 1963.

MARION ISLAND CAMPBELL ISLAND (South Africa) (New Zealand) The postman from the United After an absence of five months States weather picket ship "Durant" the first Rockhopper penguins made was marooned on Campbell Island their re-appearance in October; their in December. hoarse cries were welcome sounds. With the change in the weather the traditional excursions to ships' cove, The postman was landed at the about three miles from the station, weekend in the shi"' ' started again. It is there that the "Solglimr stranded in 1908 and the foundations of the huts in which the crew lived, can still be seen. able to repeat the trip when the postman was ready to return. The A soccer match was staged with Durant afterwards left for its duties Oubaas, a local canine friend, as in the Antarctic Ocean to the south referee. A lot of exercise was gained of Campbell Island, and was not ex chasing the referee, who persisted in running away with the ball. After pected !<"> rpfiirn until itn srhpHiilpH the referee was unceremoniously dumped into a convenient pool of water, the game vastly improved. The postman assisted the 11-man Numerous rats are still roaming New Zealand party with various the island; some have developed a duties, at his own request. He was special affinity for radio theodolite also being shown over the island by paper, but refuse lo do an ascent! members of the party.

The Auckland Islands Exedition

The Dominion Muesum—D.S.I.R. "These difficulties were real," said expedition to the Auckland Islands Prof. G. A. Knox. "You are lucky if left Lyttelton on H.M.N.Z.S. "En you get two fine days in a week. At deavour" on December 22. Winds other times there may be very heavy of up to 40 knots were encountered, rain, high winds, or high humidity. and a small launch lashed on deck, All this, on top of the thick scrub intended for use by the Auckland on the lower slopes and the boggy Islands party, was smashed to pieces by high seas. makes the going hard. In some After this misfortune, "Endeavour" places we would sink waist-deep in made for Dunedin, where two bog on what appeared to be tussock small boats with outboard motors high country." were acquired, one from the Sea Scouts and one from the Otago Har Living conditions were fair apart bour Board. The ship left again on from the nuisance of blowflies. December 24, and after the party These were surprisingly numerous was landed on the islands "En for such latitudes. deavour" proceeded to McMurdo Sound. The Second World War coast- watchers' huts used by the expedi A privately-owned Oamaru fishing tion were in fair order, except that vessel "Orion", whose owner intend the windows had gone and the ed to sail her independently to the weather had got in. Dr. R. A. Falla Aucklands had to turn back from hopes to send a working party down the vicinity of Nugget Point. next summer to reinstate the build The party returned to Lyttelton on ings which have now been vested January 22. The chief difficulties in the Dominion Museum as a base were the weather and the terrain. for future scientific work. March, 1963.

The expedition made a fairly shags, petrels, terns, gulls and other thorough survey of the northern half sea birds, while inland the red- of the main Auckland Islands and fronted parakeet, tomtits, bellbirds, northern group of off-shore islands, tuis, wax-eyes, chaffinches, and even Enderby (1700 acres), Ewing, Ocean starlings were seen. and Rose. Professor Knox said the ornitholo WILD LIFE gists thus had a "field day," banded Pigs (introduced about 1837) were about 200 birds, and made a num numerous and were often seen on ber of new records, notably a large the seashore feeding on kelp. white-chinned petrel previously seen Enderby Island had about 60 head only on Disappointment Island to of wild cattle from a herd at least the" west. The Auckland Islands 50 years old. They were in prime flightless duck was common on Ew condition. Enderby also had a large ing Island. population of rabbits; they were The entomologists were exceeding mostly an attractive French strain ly active and brought back large with blue fur. collections of insects including some Enderby had a third major source probably-new species. of interest as the main breeding site Within the limitation of the small of the southern sea lion. boats available, the expedition also BIRDS ABUNDANT explored the seas and found some Enderby again was the only Auck new fish and Crustacea for the first land Islands nest place of royal alba time round the Auckland Islands, tross and 10 nests were examined. notably a big spider crab 18in. This island also had abundant yel across, which was caught in hoards low-eyed penguins, Auckland Island in set nets. THE ASSAULT ON BIG BEN made on the 29th. Dr. Budd and HEARD ISLAND three others were thrown into the (Australia) water when the dinghy carrying "Nella Dan" reached Heard Island them ashore was swamped in the on January 26 in heavy weather. surf. Standing in water up to their After two attempts had been thwart chests, the men dragged the boat to ed a party of three men was landed land. By the time the emergency at Atlas Cove, on January 28 in still stores htid been carried to a hut difficult weather conditions includ and safely deposited, wind and sea had risen. The four men were drag ing a 45 knot wind. They were the support party to the other three-man ged out in the dinghy by long lines partv attempting the first ascent of attached to a motor-boat! They wen the 9,000 ft. Big Ben. Two pontoon in danger of being overwhelmed by loads of stores were landed and a high waves. radio installation set up. ASHORE The support team took stores to By 7 a.m. on January 30 the wind \tlas Cove. They reported that ele had dropped to 30 knots. Eleven phant seals had wrecked thc old men, including the three climbers, Australian base there, deserted since together with their equipment and 1955. The seals had wallowed in the supplies, were taken on a rubber small bathroom. The men made pontoon, towed by the ship's boat, themselves as comfortable as pos to just outside the surf-line of Long sible in the old huts. Beach at 8.30 a.m. A buov was an chored and the dinghy took a long The assault party, Dr. G. M. Budd, line ashore. The three climbers W. Deacock and Dr. Jon Stephenson were landed, wet but safe: but a awaited a more favourable oppor wave washed two men off the pon tunity to land and establish their toon and one of them. J. Seavers, base near Long Beach, on the south was carried on to the beach. A ern part of the island. But gales dinghv which was rowed back to res up to nearly 70 miles an hour were cue Seavers was capsized, but re still raging when an attempt was- floated. March, 1963.

The climbers had only five weeks This news did not reach Australia in which to scale Big Ben and com till February 27. Then a message plete their planned scientific pro from Dr. Budd was relayed from gramme. "Nella Dan". It said that the climbers had established a camp at CONTACT LOST Long Beach on January 30 and in the afternoon had caried out a re On February 19 it was reported connaissance to investigate a pass that the support party at Alias Cove at 4,200 feet joining a glacier descend was having difficulty in maintaining ing from the plateau just beneath radio - communication with the the summit to the glacier up which climbers. They moved 10 miles to they climbed from Long Beach. The Cape Gazert on the south-west coast next five days they spent relaying for two days in order to obtain bet loads up the mountain to establish ter contact with line of sight radio a camp at 4,200 feet just above the conditions. As contact could not be nass with 24 days' food and fuel. On made even from this position it was February 4 they camped there, but presumed that the climbers were violent winds during the night either still on the mountain or had threatened to wreck the tent, so the descended and proceeded to Spit night was spent digging a snow cave. Bay. ' On February 6 a depot of food for The support party, while on the 8 days was laid at 6.000 feet and on Cape Gazert trip, were caught by a February 7 the camp was moved to storm which severely battered their the summit plateau at 7,500 feet, with overnight tent, breaking several guy 4 days' food, 12 days' fuel and scien ropes. In a temporary lull the party tific equipment. made a dash home to Atlas Cove. Loaded with 60-pound packs, they They intended relnvincr n further crossed the thawing and crevassed 8 days' food fr< Vahsel Glacier in driving rain and sleet, and arrived back just in time as the full fury of the storm, with gusts of over 90 m.p.h. drove sea spray right across their camp. the 10th and 11th were dwv„„. ,> The trip by the support party was high winds and drift which reduced otherwise a profitable one. The men banded an entire population of 235 giant petrels and their chicks, and they expect to have future recoveries of these birds in Australia, New Zea land, and South America which will add valuable knowledge about their snow which by then m movements. They also found two buried their tent. The men dug adult birds banded at least nine snow tunnels to extend their living years ago. space and to bring light to their tent", The party confirmed that there but warm temperatures inside, due has been a marked retreat of glacier to insulation bv the encompassing ice along the south coast of Heard snow, soaked their clothing which Island where great amounts of froze immediately outside. During this period they caught tantalizing pumice from thc volcano are still glimnses of the plateau rim only a being washed ashore from the sur few hundred yards away and Maw rounding sea. son Peak 1,500 feet above. SAFE BUT? On February 22 Mr. Law on "Nella Dan" received a radio mes WIND, SNOW AND COLD sage that the three climbers were "tired, hungry, footsore, but well." Daybreak brought a violent bliz Owing to poor radio communication, zard. Winds gusting to over 100 it was not known if they had suc m.p.h. in the pass, thick snow drift ceeded in their climb. and a temperature of 26 degrees March, 1963.

Fahrenheit precluded any return to Camp 7,500. The men lay in wet BOOKSHELF clothing and had no room to exer cise, no source of heat, nothing to THE WINNING OF AUSTRALIAN drink and only cold rations. ANTARCTICA: A. Grenfell Price. At 9 p.m. they were attempting to B e i n g V o l u m e 1 , t h e G e o clear the snow from the cave exit. graphical Report, of the B.A.N.Z. The level was still rising and unless Antarctic Research Expedition they could shovel snow away as fast 1929-31. reports Series A. Angus as it accumulated they would be and Robertson. 241 pp. 57 ill. 12 hopelessly buried. Rather than face maps. Australian price 50/-. a 4-mile and 4,000 foot descent in the blizzard and darkness, they decided At long last we have the full story to attempt to keep the entrance of B.A.N.Z.A.R.E., Sir Douglas Maw clear for the eight hours till dawn son's "British, Australian and New at 4 a.m. Working in shifts, they Zealand Antarctic Research Expedi shovelled snow, becoming colder and tion, 1929-31". On this expedition, in more exhausted until at 2 a.m. it two extensive and difficult summer was apparent that they could not cruises on R.R.S. "Discovery" (Scott's win this batle and must leave the old ship) a vast amount of informa cave at once or be buried alive. tion was gathered, concerning the DOWN THE MOUNTAIN region lying south of Australia and With ice axes lost beneath the the Indian Ocean. In 1929-30 "Dis snow, the men fitted crampons and covery" under Captain J. K. Davis roped up in darkness and blizzard. skirted the pack from E. lo W. be The descent of the steep, crevassed tween 73°E. and 45° E. off the En ice slope of the pass took another derby Land coast. In 1930-31, with hour. By thc time they reached the Captain K. N. McKenzie in com worst section, a long, exposed and mand, the ship cruised westward e x c e p t i o n a l l y w i n d y t r a v e r s e from Cape Denison (142° 40'E.) amongst the crevasses, the dawn had where Mawson's 1911-12 hut was come and, in lulls between the drift, visited, to MacKenzie Bay (71° 15'E.) they could at least see something of and on to the west, much further their route. From the end of the south than in the previous year, as traverse the way down was straight far as 61 °E. Mawson used a sea forward and they reached Long plane to survey the coastline and the Beach seven hours later. country to the south as his ship Dr. Budd was incapacitated with moved through a thousand miles of all fingers frostbitten. The other previously little-traversed sea. two men were also frostbitten but less severely. Deacock and Stephen This fine volume is in the main, son built a shelter from boxes, fuel especially as regards the first voy drums, rocks, moss and driftwood, age, in Mawson's own words, from covered by the sledge cover. For his diaries and other writings. The the next few days the other two men editing has been unobtrusively and nursed Dr. Budd till he regained the most ably done by Dr. Grenfell Price use of most of his fingers. As it was of Adelaide, a friend of Mawson's, impossibe without camping gear to who has had access to all the rele return up the mountain the men de vant original writings, and the per cided to proceed around the island sonal co-operation of the explorer's to Atlas Cove where they knew their family. He has also made extensive comrades would be worrying. use of the "Discovery" logs and the On February 19 they travelled to diaries of several expedition mem Spit Bay. using a shovel and drift bers, including that of New Zea wood as ice axes, and a sledge cover lander R. G. Simmers, as well as the for a tent. On February 21 thev Dersonal recollections of other mem moved along the glaciated north bers. coast to Saddle Point where the old hut, although upside down, provided The whole book is lively and enter welcome shelter. The next day they taining as any such contemporary reached Atlas Cove only 36 hours be record of an important journey of fore a search party was due to start exploration by an able writer must March. 1963. be. Many readers will be specially TWO HUTS IN THE ANTARCTIC: interested in the discoveries of "new" land (the Mac-Robertson, B.A N.Z. A.R.E. and Princess Elizabeth L. B. Quartermain. Govt. Printer, coasts) which led to a heated con N.Z. 85 pages, maps and illustra troversy between Australia and Nor tions. Price 7/6. way. Dr. Price concludes his book Reviewed by J. H. Miller. with a clear and calmly reasoned 20-page survey of this controversy, Many decades will yet pass before and of the fresh light thrown on reader interest in Antarctica ceases Wilkes's discoveries by Mawson's to begin (and too often end) with work in the area where Wilkes claim the annals of the "Heroic Age" of ed to have sighted land. Antarctic exploration at the begin It will surprise many to learn that ning of this century. Naturally it the prime motivating force behind follows that the visible remnants of these two remarkable voyages was that age continue to be the centre not pure discovery or the furthering of attention for visitors, either long- of scientific reasearch. though in both term or short term, to Antarctica. these fields the expedition achieved In the Ross Dependency are the notable results. Mawson himself huts of four of these expeditions and had warned his Government that Mr. Quartermain in the 85 pages of Norway, which had a large and well- his book provides the _ complete equipped whaling fleet in the area, story of these with particular em- was about to make extensive terri nhasis on that of Shackleton's 1907- torial claims south of Australia itself. 09 Expedition at Cape Royds and The B.A.N.Z.A.R.E. Expedition was that of Scott's 1911-13—Scott's Last primarily concerned with circum Expedition—at Cape Evans; which venting this development by means last also became the headquarters of of Australian exploration in the the Ross Sea Party of Shackleton's area. This explains the frequent and Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1915-17. well publicised flag-raisings which Amply illustrated with 30 "then" followed any successful efforts to and "now" photographic reproduc reach the land. tions, three maps and further plans New Zealand readers especially and diagrams, this publication pro will be interested in the freauent vides the history of these buildings, references to two young expedition almost every t'mber of which re scientists, the ornithologist (now Dr. calls some detail of the expeditions R. A. Falla, Director of the Dominion they housed and of the men who Museum) and the meteorologist went forth from these huts to great (now Dr. R. G. Simmers. Director adventure. All the relevant informa of New Zealand's Meteorological Ser tion regarding the planning, the vice). sites, the construction, the occupa L.B.Q. tion and the eventual desertion of each of these huts is covered, and the author has perfectly portrayed PUBLISHED IN the significance which each of these buildings had as "home" for the NEW ZEALAND many parties of thc various expedi NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC EX tions. He passes then across the PEDITION 1961-62. In N.Z. Alpine years to man's occasional visits and Jnl. no. 49, 1962. Beardmore-Nim- eventual re-occuoation of the Mc rod Region: G. W. Grindlev. The Murdo region with the I.G.Y. period, Southern Party, W. W. Herbert. the Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1955- 58 and the continuing Antarctic Re search Drogrammes of various NEW MAP nations since. CAPE CROZIER: N.Z. Dept. of Lands and Survey Reconnaissance Series, It was neither accident nor chance 1: 50,000 (Refer to this map as which made the author leader of a N.Z.M.S. 175/16). Available from Huts' Restoration Party under the Map Sales Dept., Box 8003, Govern N.Z. Antarctic Programme in the ment Buildings. Price 3/-. summer of 1960-61. Here was a party M.irch. 1963. which aimed not only to repair ob The scenery sometimes smacks a vious constructional damage as had little of the Hollywood set. The been done in the past but to restore incidents too are highly coloured. To the two Huts, one almost completely see the Wandering Albatross, "to filled with ice, as nearly as possible recognise its unimpassioned beauty'' to the state of their original occupa is "to experience pure poetry." On tion. To say the task was Hercu the other hand in a rough sea Ven lean, is almost literal in that stables, turer would strain her "screaming not Augean, at both Cape Royds and rigging high over the crest of a Cape Evans were involved in the wave' and then "crash convulsively." restoration. There follow in the absorbing closing pages, interesting But at his best Banks with his accounts of the discovery of relics artist's eye can paint the Antarctic and notes concerning which the fol scene memorably, as in this first low-up detection and deduction re glimpse of the Antarctic landscape: veal the writer's zeal and industry. "As thc sun rose higher wraiths of Inevitably the telling of the story oi mist evaporated and were drawn off the Huts tells us more of the men like veils from the surface of the who lived in them and whose names sea till a movement of clouds, im will remain by-words of Antarctic- perceptible in itself, suddenly dis history. covered a buttress of rock hanging Here is a guide and hand-book for like a soft fold of curtain, yet im those who are privileged to visit Mc mobile and definite in the shiftin; Murdo Sound: an enjoyable and sky." informative addition to the libraries of those not so fortunate. This is an Antarctic scene very dif ferent from the Antarctic of Pram Point and McMurdo "city". The Gra Banks. Constable. 192 pp. Pen ham Land island groups, the "Puntz and ink sketches. U.K. Price 25/-. guayan' Base, the building of a new station, the base with no competent Roger Banks is an English artist cook, all have the interest of strange who as a young man of 23 spent a ness to the book-loving New Zea term as assistant meteorologist at a lander, who will enjoy reading this base in the Falkland Islands Depend book even if sometimes it leaves him encies which he does not name. For incredulous. this book is not a factual account of the author's experiences. He draws upon his experiences to paint SWISS PLANS a picture of Antarctic life and the personal reaction to it of a young, A Swiss correspondent of "Ice Cap inexperienced expedition member. News" reports that "The Society of Facts are manipulated to serve that Swiss Explorers is in permanent con end. tact with several foreign universities The result is a highly-coloured pic in order to prepare the first Swiss ture. His companions are "goodies" Expedition to the Antarctic. Fifteen or "baddies": some so bad that if to 30 men—explorers, scientists, and they bear any resemblance to reality, men with medical or technical back someone in F.I.D.S. should have read grounds will go South. In October an elementary treatise on the selec 1962 these men will receive special tion of personnel before choosing the training and start in October 1963 teams. from Marseille on a Norwegian ship. In his foreword, Banks claims to "The Expedition should reach Terre deal with "aspects of personality and Adelie near Christmas with six trac not with actual people". The result tors and 300 tons of material. The ing anonymity is refreshing after expedition will then start from Du some recent Antarctic books which mont d'Urville, visit Komsomol are offensively personal, but it does skaya, and continue to the Mawson give a certain feeling of unreality to Base (approx. 3700km.). The Expe the picture. These are types, not dition will concern itself with scien men. tific and technical research." March. 1963. THE READER WRITES Sidelights of Antarctic Research Letters, preferably not longer than 500-600 words, are invited trom readers who have observed some little known facet of Antarc tic life or who have reached conclusions of interest on some Antarc tic problem.—Ed.

AUSTRALASIAN ANTARCTIC We were aware that the depot was in EXPEDITION 1911-14 the vicinity, and we searched with binoculars. The gap is only a few Sir,—I appreciate warmly the hundred yards wide, and we would space you kindly gave my September have seen any object that projected leter concerning the magnetograph more than a few inches above the house at Cape Denison, Common snow. There are large sastrugi in the wealth Bay. highest part of the gap, and this Now, I must beg one essential cor means that it is an area of snow ac rection. However little present-dav cumulation. Although the depot New Zealanders may like the term, would have been conspicuous to Mawson deliberately named his Ex Shackleton's trans-Antarctic party in pedition "AUSTRALASIAN" to en 1917, I doubt that it remained above sure recognition of New Zealand's the snow for many years. part in contributing material and CHARLES SWITHINBANK, men. In all there were four New Zeaanders in the land parties' total Glacial Geology and Polar Research of 31. Laboratory, E. N. WEBB, University of Michigan, Chief Magnetician, A.A.E. Ann Arbor, Michigan, U.S.A. Helford Passage, Cornwall, England. A MAWSON MAN Dr. J. G. Hunter recently retired at the age of 74 from the position of LOST DEPOT Federal Secretary of the Australian Sir,—Your review of R. W. Rich- Medical Association, a position which ards's The Ross Sea Shore Party he has filled with distinction for 34 1914-17 in the December 1962 "An years. He has been described as "the tarctic" prompts me to write about main driving force in organised the food depot that was placed by medicine in Australia." Mr. Richards and his companions While a 23-year-old second-year at the foot of Mount Hope. I have medical student at Sydney Uni recently been corresponding with versity he joined Mawson's 1911 ex Mr. Richards, who enquired about the pedition as chief biologist. He ultimate fate of the depot. Although served at Cape Denison throughout E. E. M. Joyce reports (in Shackle the whole of 1912 and was a member ton's South, 1929, p.283) that the of the Southern Supporting Party depot was taken "up the glacier", (Nov.-Dec. 1912). He returned to Mr. Richards informs me that it was Australia in March 1913, but went laid on hard snow "on top of the south again on the "Aurora" in De gap" between Mount Hope and the cember when Mawson was picked mainland "and not in any way up up after his second winter. the glacier". With this information, I Dr. Hunter says he will never for was able to state with considerable get those "invigorating, care-free assurance that the depot is lost. To days" in the Home of the Blizzard, gether with Thomas Taylor, I drove and he still has in his office a stuf a motor sledge through the gap in fed penguin with a stethoscope hung late 1960 without finding anything. about its neck. The New Zealand Antarctic Society is a group of New Zealanders, some of whom have seen Antarctica for themselves, but all vitally interested in some phase of Antarctic exploration, development or research. You are invited to become a member. BRANCH SECRETARIES Wellington : W. J. P. Macdonald, Box 2110, Wellington. Canterbury: J. H. M. Williams, 85 Waimea Terrace, Ch'ch. Dunedin: J. H. McGhie, Box 34, Dunedin.

"THE ANTARCTIC TODAY" This volume is out of print, but a limited number of the follow ing separate sections is available, the stapling slightly rusted: Ionosphere Research (J. W. Beagley). Meteorology (A. R. Martin). Marine Biology (R. K. Dell). Aurora Australis (I. L. Thomsen). The Nations in the Antarctic (recent Australian, South African, French, etc., exploration by leading experts in the countries concerned). These separates are available at a cost of four shillings each from the Secretary, N.Z. Antarctic Society.

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