Into Thin Air: Personal Account of the Everest Disaster Pdf Free Download

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INTO THIN AIR: PERSONAL ACCOUNT OF THE EVEREST DISASTER PDF, EPUB, EBOOK

Get A Copy. Paperback , pages. Published October 19th by Anchor Books first published May 1st More Details Original Title. Rob Hall , Jon Krakauer. Nepal Mount Everest. Other Editions Friend Reviews. To see what your friends thought of this book, please sign up. To ask other readers questions about Into Thin Air , please sign up. Does this book read like a novel or like a documentary? Moncrieff Novel, definitely. I found it almost impossible to put this book down. While there is quite a bit of technical info, as Karis said, I never found it t …more Novel, definitely. While there is quite a bit of technical info, as Karis said, I never found it too much or that it slowed down the story. And I'm not typically interested in mountaineering at all. Krakauer's story is one of humanity and survival at its heart. Why do the bodies stay in the mountain? Firstly, it is indeed very costly to remove the bodies and the task also imposes many risks …more There are two reasons why the bodies stay on the mountain. Firstly, it is indeed very costly to remove the bodies and the task also imposes many risks to the climbers carrying the bodies down. Any physical labour at that altitude becomes almost impossible. Secondly, some climbers who devoted their lives to the mountains remain there per their final wishes. See all 16 questions about Into Thin Air…. Lists with This Book. Community Reviews. Showing Average rating 4. Rating details. More filters. Sort order. Life got you down? Then join us on a guided expedition led by Capital Idiocy Inc. And in addition to our expertise an Life got you down? And in addition to our expertise and mentorship, we will have the support of the local populace, the Sherpa, to handle the basic logistical arrangements so that you can focus on the prize. We will prepare you for the high altitudes with our carefully developed Acclimatization Program. We have you covered…with the best protective clothing available! There is limited space! They have been there for years. Some of them suck big time…when it matters most too. We would be screwed without these guys. They cook, carry the heaviest loads, and lay out the ropes. Essentially they take care of the most dangerous tasks for a fraction of what we pay our Western guides. Plus they always have a delicious, steaming cup of tea ready when you reach your tent. And if a storm hits and you cannot find your way back to camp? Oh boy! Get ready for a windchill exceeding below zero. And frostbite. Lots of frostbite. Plus what good is all that gear when people keep losing their mittens and we find the deceased half-stripped? They can come out of nowhere. And with your severely handicapped mental capabilities, you may not even realize where you are. Heck, you may not even be at the top in actuality! They were off by a good feet. Plus they died on the way down. Double losers. Our number one priority is getting you to the summit, no matter the risks. And health? You can read it at home in your bed, safe and warm. The author, that crazy guy, already climbed Mount Everest for you. He reminds me of travel writer, Bill Bryson with his accessible, factual, and tension-filled writing, minus the humor. Because climbing Mount Everest is not funny. View all 92 comments. View all 15 comments. View all comments. Jun 21, Brigette rated it it was amazing. I recently attended the Banff mountain film festival in Canada. One of the key speakers was Simone Moro, the close friend of Anatoli Boukreev, the climber who was killed in an avalanche several years ago on Annapurna and whom Krakauer pretty much vilifies in this book as not having done enough to save the lives of those caught in the blizzard on Mount Everest in May of Needless to say, the vibe in the room was chilly whenever the subject of Krakauer's version of events came up; he was accu I recently attended the Banff mountain film festival in Canada. Needless to say, the vibe in the room was chilly whenever the subject of Krakauer's version of events came up; he was accused of slander and some in the room even claimed that he had not done much himself to save the lives of those in danger during the Everest disaster. Nevertheless, as a reader of climbing nonfiction, I stand by Krakauer. I have always found his account of the Everest disaster an intensely moving and thought- provoking one. Kraukauer loves climbing but is completely honest about the fact that such a dangerous sport so often puts one in the agonizing position of having to make life or death decisions under conditions that make clear thinking nearly impossible-- the cold, the lack of oxygen, the immense strain on the body at that great elevation. One gets the sense while reading that he is trying to make sense of this crazy sport as he writes, that this book is his process of figuring out the answer to the question: with all of the dangers and fatalities that result from climbing Everest, why on earth do people actually sign themselves up for this kind of thing? In the years since I first picked up this book, I have discovered many other great climbing books in the adventure genre, although Krakauer's remains one of my all-time favorites. If you enjoy Krakauer's writing, you might also enjoy Nando Parrado's Miracle in the Andes, a true account of the narrow escape of some members of a Uruguayan rugby team that survived by any means necessary-- and I do mean ANY means necessary--two grueling months in the Andes after their plane crashed in the mountains on the way home from a game. In addition, Joe Simpson's Touching the Void is a similarly remarkable story of a climber who survives unlikely odds after breaking his leg on the side of the mountain Siula Grande in Peru. There are also movie versions of both Titled Alive and Touching the Void, respectively. In addition, a movie version is due out soon for one of Krakauer's other wilderness adventure books, Into The Wild. View all 24 comments. Nov 02, Petra-X rated it really liked it Shelves: reviewed , biography-true-story. Into Thin Air or Injustice of many kinds on the Mountain. Until almost the end this book was exactly as I expected it to be with just one exception. It was the story of a journalist climbing Mount Everest both as a journalist and as a mountaineer. Ideal getting paid to do your hobby! It was interesting because Krakauer is a damn good writer and because its fascinating to see the details of how the mountain is climbed. It's also disappointing because few individuals do it by themselves, without Into Thin Air or Injustice of many kinds on the Mountain. It's also disappointing because few individuals do it by themselves, without a major support, like the guy who bicycled all the way around Europe to Nepal and then climbed the mountain alone I would have liked to have read his story but it was only alluded to in the book. For everyone else its a package tour for the fit and not-necessarily experienced who want to climb Everest and have an awful lot of spare cash. Transport is arranged, tents are set up, luggage is carried, there will be steaming hot tea awaiting the climbers on their return to their tents after an expedition, and if they really can't climb well, they can be short-roped and pulled up. Short-roped is the climber roping themselves with a less-than-one-metre rope to the waist of the would-be-climber and literally hauling them up. Still, even with all this portering and pampering I was surprised that the first climbers of the season using last year's ropes fitted ropes up Everest so that the climbers didn't have to set their own. More than that, the really difficult bits got ladders installed! But no matter how many shortcuts and easements they are able to achieve there are two things that can neither be predicted nor controlled. One is altitude sickness which in some forms can kill very quickly, and in others causes mental delusions that led one of the team to his death. And the other is the weather. At the beginning of this review, I mentioned there was one exception to my expectations for this book based on several books I have read by this author. The exception was one extraordinary chapter full of the most vituperative nastiness against a socialite climber. I didn't know why it was there. He didn't get any nicer towards her as the book progressed either, but then he said that when he was writing the book he had a 75 minute phone conversation with her. Either she didn't know what he'd written - I would never bother wasting time on someone who had that little respect for me and intended to tell the world - or he didn't write it until after the phone conversation. My only reaction to the chapter was thinking that the author was such a damn bitch. The last chapter was tremendously interesting. Krakauer had not had much respect for another of the climbers - the guide and tour leader Anatoli Boukreev. He felt that Boukreev was more fulfilling his own ambitions of climbing than in sticking to his job of helping others to climb and looking after their safety. Boukreev wrote his own book saying that Krakauer had not mentioned certain incidents somewhat detrimental to himself and that he had made some observational errors, either through oxygen deprivation or wilfullness, and gave his own version of the climb. This argy-bargy went back and forth in print and on tv, and this chapter is Krakauer defending himself. Sadly Boukreev, a climber par excellence, was buried under an avalanche on Annapurna the following year, in , so we will never get to hear what he thought of Krakauer's defence. The book is worth reading because the Sherpas have always been sidelined in stories of climbing Everest. As if it is somehow more praiseworthy for a White man to climb the mountain and its nothing really for the Sherpas who can just hop up and down like monkeys carrying all the loads while the white man Climbs. This book sets the record straight. The mountain could not be the business it is without the Sherpas. The tour companies and guides have enormous respect for these men and their abilities and form as firm friendships with them as they do with anyone else in their lives. Its a shame that this respect doesn't extend to paying them more than the one-tenth they earn compared to the tour guides but of course its justified in the traditional way - this is local wages, this is a lot of money for the locals, the locals don't need the things the guides from America, Australia etc do Why can't people just put their money where their mouth is. You can't pay bills and put your kids through school on respect. Reduced by 1-star to four stars because of this. Rewritten 7 May due to Covid boredom, finding the book and skimming through it. View all 36 comments. Oct 19, Steve rated it liked it. Note to self: take climbing Everest off bucket list. View all 5 comments. Above 26, feet, moreover, the line between appropriate zeal and reckless summit fever becomes grievously thin. Expedition member Noel Odell, who was following in support, watched their progress from the safety of camp. Neither Mallory or Irvine returned. In the years since, Everest has not grown more forgiving. If you happen to reach the summit, you are at the approximate cruising altitude of a commercial jet liner. The air is so thin that you are literally dying. That, combined with moody weather changes and the typical challenges of mountaineering, makes for a dangerous, deadly environment. Despite this frightful reputation, the toll of May , manages to stand out. Five people — including two experienced guides — lost their lives after ignoring their own turnaround times and getting caught in a sudden storm. The cluster of deaths would have made news by itself. It just so happened, however, that one of the surviving climbers was Jon Krakauer, an adventurer and journalist on assignment for Outside magazine. Ultimately, he returned to his article and reshaped it into a book, Into Thin Air. Leaving aside the controversies — which swirl around the disaster like the spindrift off the peak of Everest — Into Thin Air is deserving of its lofty reputation. Unlike a lot of first-person memoirs churned out in the wake of disaster or trauma, Into Thin Air is the product of a man with a gift for writing. Krakauer may have thought of himself as a climber who got into journalism, but he is a natural storyteller, and his prose wonderfully evokes the beauties and terrors of the mountainside. In terms of conjuring place, of putting you there with the climbers — whether that is the squalor of a filthy lodge in Lobuje, the vertiginous seracs of the Icefall, or the top of the world itself — Krakauer succeeds at describing the indescribable. At less than three-hundred pages, Into Thin Air is compact and briskly paced. Most of the time, Krakauer stays within his own experiences. He tells you what he saw, what he heard, and his impressions of the other climbers owing to the fact that he wrote this with the wounds still raw and weeping, he is extremely careful in his presentations. The only time Krakauer leaves the first-person perspective is to piece together what happened to those who died while he was not present Krakauer was one of the first to summit Everest on May 10, , and made it back to camp before the dying started in earnest. Typically, I am wary of memoirs, since they are usually a vehicle for self-promotion or self-defense. Krakauer struggles a bit with being both journalist and participant, of both reporting the action and being part of it. For the most part, though, he strikes a good balance. Indeed, Krakauer reserves his harshest words for himself, and a hypoxia-induced mistake he made that contributed to the death of one of the climbers. To the extent that Krakauer provides a theory of the disaster, he attributes it to the crowds, with multiple expeditions trying to reach the summit during the same good-weather window. This led to traffic jams that turned the fixed ropes up the mountain into a Himalayan version of a Costco checkout line during a pandemic. There is a saying that the first guy through the door always gets hit. For instance, the famed mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev felt compelled to pen — with a cowriter — his own account of the catastrophe, after Krakauer tepidly chided Boukreev for attempting to summit without supplemental oxygen while acting as a guide. With the passage of so much time, I have absolutely zero interest in parsing all the different accounts, of trying to keep track of the directions all the fingers are pointing. When you get near the top, you are subject to hypoxia, which hits everyone differently, and can strike down even the most veteran climber. To say this event was a tragedy requires some modification. If this was a tragedy, it was of the high-tax bracket, entirely-avoidable variety. To make a supported climb on Everest requires a chunk of change that is quite a bit higher than the median income in the United States. Dying on Everest — unless you are a Sherpa — is a privilege few can afford. To not only risk your life, but to pay handsomely for the opportunity, is partly an ego trip. Yet it is impossible not to stand a bit in awe of those who make the attempt. As Krakauer points out, the summit becomes an obsession for many, one that cannot simply be explained away as a premeditated lunge for the best cocktail party story ever. There is something mysterious in a person who insists on trudging past the deadline, who — like Mallory in — refuses to simply turn on their heels and return home, and instead keeps reaching for the apex, as time and breath wind down to nothing. There is a cost to Everest that Krakauer aptly shows cannot be translated into hard currency. View all 12 comments. Nov 30, Michelle rated it liked it Recommends it for: mountaineers, adventure lovers, crazy people. Shelves: non-fiction. This is not a review. So…These are a few things I learned from reading this book: 1. If a person decides to climb Everest, the This is not a review. If a person decides to climb Everest, they are likely to encounter dead bodies along the route up to the summit. Lobuje, which is on the way to Everest Base Camp, is a place that overflows with human excrement. While Krakauer was there in , he wrote "Huge stinking piles of human feces lay everywhere; it was impossible not to walk in it. Without the assistance of Sherpas, it is unlikely that climbers would be able to reach the summit at all. Besides schlepping tons of your crap, they also know the way, and they place climbing ropes and in some instances, repair ladders, so people will be able to ascend the trickier places. The place would also be a lot dirtier without them because they are partially responsible for removing some of the trash that Everest has accumulated over the years. One camp reported having around a thousand empty canisters of supplemental oxygen as I said below in a review comment, so I might as well stick it in here, too. On this particular excursion, two climbers got stuck on the mountain during a storm. They spent the night at 28, feet without shelter or supplemental oxygen and were believed to be dead. The guide sent to look for them the next day found them barely breathing after chipping off three inches of ice from their faces. Believing that they were beyond help, he left them there. One of the climbers, my personal hero, woke up from his coma hours later and was lucid enough to get himself back down to one of the camps. Sure, he lost half an arm, his nose, and all of the digits on his other hand to frostbite, but he's still alive. Oh, and sure, the events that happened on Mt. Everest in were tragic, but I do think the people who climb it know what they are risking. View all 20 comments. Nov 18, Paul Bryant rated it liked it Shelves: autobiography-memoir. This book suddenly became very relevant - no less than TEN climbers have died this week May on Everest. The reason for this horrible turn of events is given as inexperienced guides leading inexperienced climbers combined with the usual weather restrictions leading to these ghastly insane queueing situations : Yes, that's the top of the highest mountain in the world. It must have been used in a school at one point. Ask is he kisses your hair, then if he kisses anyone elses hair Always Spicy On page 88, in a different hand, we read Eric Conner, Feb 24 he asked me out And on page Troy is hot! In an attempt to be scrupulously correct, JK almost turns the events which killed eight people on Everest on May into a stolid police report. Lugging your mortal flesh into very high altitudes is madness. There was no forgetting that we were more than three miles above sea level. Walking left me wheezing for several minutes. If I sat up too quickly, my head reeled and vertigo set in. Sleep became elusive. Cuts and scrapes refused to heal. My appetite vanished… my arms and legs gradually began to wither to sticklike proportions. This was at 16, feet. The summit of Everest is 29, feet. The further you go up, the more likely you are to get HAPE high altitude pulmonary edema , where you froth blood, lapse into a coma and die or HACE High altitude cerebral edema , where you become deranged, lapse into a coma and die. Krakauer is also keen to deny that mountaineers are adrenalin junkies. We lubbers may imagine that when they get to the summit they experience some great euphoria. Not at all, he says. Getting up a mountain is grinding your way through great pain in the knowledge that getting back down from the summit is more dangerous than getting up to it. Mountaineering does not sound like a healthy outdoor pursuit to me. A lot of ridiculous rich white people want to do it. So they join guided expeditions. On an Everest expedition there are three classes of people. The guides — these are the white expert mountaineers who organise everything and guarantee client safety The clients — these are the rich white people who have nothing better to do. Sherpas put in the route, set up the camps, did the cooking, hauled all the loads. This conserved our energy and vastly increased our chances of getting up Everest. This enforced client passivity earns these guided expeditions great contempt in other more radical mountaineering circles. These rich clients have no mountaineering skills themselves. And some of the haughty sneerers also say that using oxygen tanks is cheating too. And guess what, some of these hard core guys have gone right ahead and climbed Everest without Sherpas and without oxygen, and when they got to the top they looked down on everyone else, you can bet your life. This was a big part of why eight people died and it took me a while to work out why. On the day your team is going to reach the summit the guide will announce a turn round time, usually 2 pm. They might be only 30 minutes away but they must turn round and start descending. How ultimately frustrating! There were several companies guiding clients to the summit on 10 May and one of them was new and very keen to get all of its clients to the summit. So keen that they allowed some stragglers to continue to the summit up to 4pm that day. According to JK, this contributed to some clients getting swallowed up in the sudden blizzard that hit the summit in the afternoon. No one saw it coming. But there was a whole tangle of wrong decisions that day, including some made by JK himself. So, a self-inflicted confused disaster, many of the details of which are disputed. At the end of it all I was more convinced than ever that I will never, ever understand the motivations of many of my fellow human beings View all 25 comments. Sep 07, Kelly and the Book Boar rated it really liked it Shelves: memoir , non-fiction , own-it-spent-my-food-money-on-it , read-in Advance apologies - this might get rambly. Anyway, back to my bizarre fangirl squeeing. Please note I have zero desire to ever attempt to climb Mt. Everest or anything higher than a flight of stairs. You know what you die of on Everest? Either that or you drown on your own lung juices. Drowning in water terrifies me, drowning because I was dumb enough to attempt to climb to the height of where a jumbo jet flies is beyond my comprehension. I can never wrap my brain around the fact that people spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to go on a vacation where there is a one in four chance of dying rather than reaching the summit. The trick is to get back down alive. With the summit visable from this vantage point, climbers are nearly impossible to turn around — leading to a greater chance of hypothermia, frostbite, not making the descent before dark, running out of oxygen, etc. In my opinion, it should cost a million dollars per person to climb Everest. That would be enough money for clean-up and deter the wannabe super wo men from attempting the climb. Recommended to anyone who likes to experience adventure and defy death from the safety of their reading chair. My only advice is to familiarize yourself with the specific locations which are continually talked about with respect to the Everest climb. View all 27 comments. Jan 07, Michael rated it it was amazing. Utterly harrowing and propulsive. I could not put this book down. This is another book that details people's misguided quests to conquer nature--to see nature as something to be conquered. It's also another great cold-weather read, to make you realize that, really, it's not so cold out after all. Apr 20, Maxwell rated it really liked it Shelves: non-fiction , owned. I'll be the first to admit that I'm not the biggest fan of non-fiction. I prefer to listen to podcasts or interviews, rather than read straight-up non-fiction about a certain topic. And as someone who isn't particularly interested in climbing or sports in general, this wouldn't be a book that I'd normally read. But I'm so glad that I did. It definitely reads more like a memoir, since the author was present for the events of the story. That made it a much more palatable read for me, rather than a I'll be the first to admit that I'm not the biggest fan of non-fiction. That made it a much more palatable read for me, rather than a book about an event where the author does all the research but has no first-hand experience of the thing. However, after having read this I would definitely read anything else Krakauer has written or writes because he is such an amazing storyteller. I was never bored reading this book. He blends history and personal accounts into a gripping, harrowing, horrifying, fascinating story. It's truly awful, but I couldn't put it down. I'm not sure how I particularly feel about being so interested in reading about a tragedy like this, but I also think it opened my eyes to SO many new things that there is definitely merit to the story. On top of that, I can only imagine it was a story Krakauer felt he had to tell after having lived through it. I will definitely be recommending this book to friends and suggesting it to people who, like me, are hesitant to pick up non-fiction books that aren't memoir. View all 4 comments. Sep 03, Ahmad Sharabiani rated it really liked it Shelves: adventure , travel , non-fiction , memoir , biography , united-states , 20th-century , history , literature. Everest Disaster is a bestselling non-fiction book written by Jon Krakauer. It details Krakauer's experience in the Mount Everest disaster, in which eight climbers were killed and several others were stranded by a storm. Krakauer's expedition was led by guide Rob Hall. Other groups were trying to summit on the same day, including one led by Scott Fischer, whose guiding agency, Mountain Madness, was perceived as a competitor to Hall's agency, Adventure Consultants. Sep 12, David Schaafsma rated it it was amazing Shelves: nature , sports , non-fiction. Which itself calls attention to the several people who have died on Everest in the past WEEK, not dissuaded by this story, obviously, which every climber knows well in multiple versions. This is the thing about risk-takers, death-defiers, mountain climbers, they must do what they must do. I love this book. I listened to it on a road trip from Chicago to New Orleans on my spring break, It's funny, because spring break for northerners is often about heading south to warmth, and all I remember about the driving part of this trip south was climbing freezing cold and oxygen-starved Mount Everest as this incredibly gripping tragedy took place there. You know, some nights I get up for whatever reason in the night and I can't see anything, proceeding from my bed to the hallway and skirting the edge of the stairs on the way to pee or to soothe some nightmare-ridden kid, and I recall what some unfortunate climber did in a blinding snowstorm, unable to see, trying to make it back to his tent but plummeting off the edge of a cliff and down hundreds of feet--or was it thousands? I never fall down the stairs. Not yet, not so far, anyway. I guess you may only have to do that once at my age. But I always think of this book, in horror. Beautifully told by Krakauer, though it became as these accounts sometimes will somewhat controversial in that some people disagree with how he characterized some of the more sensitive aspects of the events. In later editions he includes other views of some of the disputed events, other interpretations, which I think is cool. But a great book stays with you and this one stays with me. And I read very few books like this, though after that I read other books by him including Into The Wild. View all 11 comments. I learned how utterly self-centered and shallow mountain climbers are. I learned an utter distaste for mountain climbers. It was a very worthwhile book and I'm very glad I read it. I often think of it when I encounter shallow self-centered people. Jon Krakauer was Jon Krakauer. When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, , he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain- altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29, feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3, feet lower, in knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning, he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were desperately struggling for their lives. Into Thin Air - Wikipedia

In fact, Mr Krakauer's guilt and anguish give the book much of its power. He asks difficult questions about the motives of the climbers, several of them physicians, their psychology, and their willingness to expose others, in addition to themselves, to great risks in search of thrills or glory. Coronavirus Resource Center. All Rights Reserved. Twitter Facebook Email. This Issue. Citations 0. View Metrics. Books, Journals, New Media. Save Preferences. UK: Mainstream Publishing. Into Thin Air. USA: Turtleback. Entertainment Weekly. Retrieved 23 November Retrieved 17 January Retrieved 20 September Jon Krakauer. Mount Everest. Khumbutse Lhotse Lingtren Nuptse Pumori. List of Mount Everest records Times to the summit 20th-century summiters. Categories : Mountaineering books Mount Everest in fiction non-fiction books Villard imprint books Books about survival skills Books adapted into films. Hidden categories: Articles with short description Short description matches Wikidata Wikipedia articles needing page number citations from October All articles with unsourced statements Articles with unsourced statements from July Namespaces Article Talk. Views Read Edit View history. Help Learn to edit Community portal Recent changes Upload file. Download as PDF Printable version. Hardcover edition. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, , he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain- altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29, feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3, feet lower, in knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning, he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were desperately struggling for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Into Thin Air is the definitive account of the deadliest season in the history of Everest by the acclaimed journalist and author of the bestseller Into the Wild. On assignment for Outside Magazine to report on the growing commercialization of the mountain, Krakauer, an accomplished climber, went to the Himalayas as a client of Rob Hall, the most respected high-altitude guide in the world. Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer

Sign in to access your subscriptions Sign in to your personal account. Institutional sign in: OpenAthens Shibboleth. Create a free personal account to download free article PDFs, sign up for alerts, and more. Purchase access Subscribe to the journal. Sign in to download free article PDFs Sign in to access your subscriptions Sign in to your personal account. Get free access to newly published articles Create a personal account or sign in to: Register for email alerts with links to free full-text articles Access PDFs of free articles Manage your interests Save searches and receive search alerts. Get free access to newly published articles. Create a personal account to register for email alerts with links to free full-text articles. Sign in to save your search Sign in to your personal account. Create a free personal account to access your subscriptions, sign up for alerts, and more. Purchase access Subscribe now. Purchase access Subscribe to JN Learning for one year. Sign in to customize your interests Sign in to your personal account. Create a free personal account to download free article PDFs, sign up for alerts, customize your interests, and more. Privacy Policy. Sign in to make a comment Sign in to your personal account. It was a very worthwhile book and I'm very glad I read it. I often think of it when I encounter shallow self-centered people. Jon Krakauer was Jon Krakauer was born in Brookline, Massachusetts on April 12, He received a degree in environmental studies from Hampshire College in Massachusetts in He worked as a carpenter, fisherman, and writer. In , he climbed Mt. Everest, but a storm took the lives of four of the five teammates who reached the summit with him. An analysis of the calamity he wrote for Outside magazine received a National Magazine Award.

Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster - Jon Krakauer - Google книги

Jon Krakauer. When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, , he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29, feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3, feet lower, in knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning, he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn't made it back to their camp and were desperately struggling for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated. Firstly, it is indeed very costly to remove the bodies and the task also imposes many risks to the climbers carrying the bodies down. Any physical labour at that altitude becomes almost impossible. Secondly, some climbers who devoted their lives to the mountains remain there per their final wishes. See all 16 questions about Into Thin Air…. Lists with This Book. Community Reviews. Showing Average rating 4. Rating details. More filters. Sort order. Life got you down? Then join us on a guided expedition led by Capital Idiocy Inc. And in addition to our expertise an Life got you down? And in addition to our expertise and mentorship, we will have the support of the local populace, the Sherpa, to handle the basic logistical arrangements so that you can focus on the prize. We will prepare you for the high altitudes with our carefully developed Acclimatization Program. We have you covered…with the best protective clothing available! There is limited space! They have been there for years. Some of them suck big time…when it matters most too. We would be screwed without these guys. They cook, carry the heaviest loads, and lay out the ropes. Essentially they take care of the most dangerous tasks for a fraction of what we pay our Western guides. Plus they always have a delicious, steaming cup of tea ready when you reach your tent. And if a storm hits and you cannot find your way back to camp? Oh boy! Get ready for a windchill exceeding below zero. And frostbite. Lots of frostbite. Plus what good is all that gear when people keep losing their mittens and we find the deceased half-stripped? They can come out of nowhere. And with your severely handicapped mental capabilities, you may not even realize where you are. Heck, you may not even be at the top in actuality! They were off by a good feet. Plus they died on the way down. Double losers. Our number one priority is getting you to the summit, no matter the risks. And health? You can read it at home in your bed, safe and warm. The author, that crazy guy, already climbed Mount Everest for you. He reminds me of travel writer, Bill Bryson with his accessible, factual, and tension-filled writing, minus the humor. Because climbing Mount Everest is not funny. View all 92 comments. View all 15 comments. View all comments. Jun 21, Brigette rated it it was amazing. I recently attended the Banff mountain film festival in Canada. One of the key speakers was Simone Moro, the close friend of Anatoli Boukreev, the climber who was killed in an avalanche several years ago on Annapurna and whom Krakauer pretty much vilifies in this book as not having done enough to save the lives of those caught in the blizzard on Mount Everest in May of Needless to say, the vibe in the room was chilly whenever the subject of Krakauer's version of events came up; he was accu I recently attended the Banff mountain film festival in Canada. Needless to say, the vibe in the room was chilly whenever the subject of Krakauer's version of events came up; he was accused of slander and some in the room even claimed that he had not done much himself to save the lives of those in danger during the Everest disaster. Nevertheless, as a reader of climbing nonfiction, I stand by Krakauer. I have always found his account of the Everest disaster an intensely moving and thought- provoking one. Kraukauer loves climbing but is completely honest about the fact that such a dangerous sport so often puts one in the agonizing position of having to make life or death decisions under conditions that make clear thinking nearly impossible-- the cold, the lack of oxygen, the immense strain on the body at that great elevation. One gets the sense while reading that he is trying to make sense of this crazy sport as he writes, that this book is his process of figuring out the answer to the question: with all of the dangers and fatalities that result from climbing Everest, why on earth do people actually sign themselves up for this kind of thing? In the years since I first picked up this book, I have discovered many other great climbing books in the adventure genre, although Krakauer's remains one of my all-time favorites. If you enjoy Krakauer's writing, you might also enjoy Nando Parrado's Miracle in the Andes, a true account of the narrow escape of some members of a Uruguayan rugby team that survived by any means necessary-- and I do mean ANY means necessary--two grueling months in the Andes after their plane crashed in the mountains on the way home from a game. In addition, Joe Simpson's Touching the Void is a similarly remarkable story of a climber who survives unlikely odds after breaking his leg on the side of the mountain Siula Grande in Peru. There are also movie versions of both Titled Alive and Touching the Void, respectively. In addition, a movie version is due out soon for one of Krakauer's other wilderness adventure books, Into The Wild. View all 24 comments. Nov 02, Petra-X rated it really liked it Shelves: reviewed , biography-true- story. Into Thin Air or Injustice of many kinds on the Mountain. Until almost the end this book was exactly as I expected it to be with just one exception. It was the story of a journalist climbing Mount Everest both as a journalist and as a mountaineer. Ideal getting paid to do your hobby! It was interesting because Krakauer is a damn good writer and because its fascinating to see the details of how the mountain is climbed. It's also disappointing because few individuals do it by themselves, without Into Thin Air or Injustice of many kinds on the Mountain. It's also disappointing because few individuals do it by themselves, without a major support, like the guy who bicycled all the way around Europe to Nepal and then climbed the mountain alone I would have liked to have read his story but it was only alluded to in the book. For everyone else its a package tour for the fit and not-necessarily experienced who want to climb Everest and have an awful lot of spare cash. Transport is arranged, tents are set up, luggage is carried, there will be steaming hot tea awaiting the climbers on their return to their tents after an expedition, and if they really can't climb well, they can be short-roped and pulled up. Short-roped is the climber roping themselves with a less- than-one-metre rope to the waist of the would-be-climber and literally hauling them up. Still, even with all this portering and pampering I was surprised that the first climbers of the season using last year's ropes fitted ropes up Everest so that the climbers didn't have to set their own. More than that, the really difficult bits got ladders installed! But no matter how many shortcuts and easements they are able to achieve there are two things that can neither be predicted nor controlled. One is altitude sickness which in some forms can kill very quickly, and in others causes mental delusions that led one of the team to his death. And the other is the weather. At the beginning of this review, I mentioned there was one exception to my expectations for this book based on several books I have read by this author. The exception was one extraordinary chapter full of the most vituperative nastiness against a socialite climber. I didn't know why it was there. He didn't get any nicer towards her as the book progressed either, but then he said that when he was writing the book he had a 75 minute phone conversation with her. Either she didn't know what he'd written - I would never bother wasting time on someone who had that little respect for me and intended to tell the world - or he didn't write it until after the phone conversation. My only reaction to the chapter was thinking that the author was such a damn bitch. The last chapter was tremendously interesting. Krakauer had not had much respect for another of the climbers - the guide and tour leader Anatoli Boukreev. He felt that Boukreev was more fulfilling his own ambitions of climbing than in sticking to his job of helping others to climb and looking after their safety. Boukreev wrote his own book saying that Krakauer had not mentioned certain incidents somewhat detrimental to himself and that he had made some observational errors, either through oxygen deprivation or wilfullness, and gave his own version of the climb. This argy-bargy went back and forth in print and on tv, and this chapter is Krakauer defending himself. Sadly Boukreev, a climber par excellence, was buried under an avalanche on Annapurna the following year, in , so we will never get to hear what he thought of Krakauer's defence. The book is worth reading because the Sherpas have always been sidelined in stories of climbing Everest. As if it is somehow more praiseworthy for a White man to climb the mountain and its nothing really for the Sherpas who can just hop up and down like monkeys carrying all the loads while the white man Climbs. This book sets the record straight. The mountain could not be the business it is without the Sherpas. The tour companies and guides have enormous respect for these men and their abilities and form as firm friendships with them as they do with anyone else in their lives. Its a shame that this respect doesn't extend to paying them more than the one-tenth they earn compared to the tour guides but of course its justified in the traditional way - this is local wages, this is a lot of money for the locals, the locals don't need the things the guides from America, Australia etc do Why can't people just put their money where their mouth is. You can't pay bills and put your kids through school on respect. Reduced by 1-star to four stars because of this. Rewritten 7 May due to Covid boredom, finding the book and skimming through it. View all 36 comments. Oct 19, Steve rated it liked it. Note to self: take climbing Everest off bucket list. View all 5 comments. Above 26, feet, moreover, the line between appropriate zeal and reckless summit fever becomes grievously thin. Expedition member Noel Odell, who was following in support, watched their progress from the safety of camp. Neither Mallory or Irvine returned. In the years since, Everest has not grown more forgiving. If you happen to reach the summit, you are at the approximate cruising altitude of a commercial jet liner. The air is so thin that you are literally dying. That, combined with moody weather changes and the typical challenges of mountaineering, makes for a dangerous, deadly environment. Despite this frightful reputation, the toll of May , manages to stand out. Five people — including two experienced guides — lost their lives after ignoring their own turnaround times and getting caught in a sudden storm. The cluster of deaths would have made news by itself. It just so happened, however, that one of the surviving climbers was Jon Krakauer, an adventurer and journalist on assignment for Outside magazine. Ultimately, he returned to his article and reshaped it into a book, Into Thin Air. Leaving aside the controversies — which swirl around the disaster like the spindrift off the peak of Everest — Into Thin Air is deserving of its lofty reputation. Unlike a lot of first-person memoirs churned out in the wake of disaster or trauma, Into Thin Air is the product of a man with a gift for writing. Krakauer may have thought of himself as a climber who got into journalism, but he is a natural storyteller, and his prose wonderfully evokes the beauties and terrors of the mountainside. In terms of conjuring place, of putting you there with the climbers — whether that is the squalor of a filthy lodge in Lobuje, the vertiginous seracs of the Icefall, or the top of the world itself — Krakauer succeeds at describing the indescribable. At less than three-hundred pages, Into Thin Air is compact and briskly paced. Most of the time, Krakauer stays within his own experiences. He tells you what he saw, what he heard, and his impressions of the other climbers owing to the fact that he wrote this with the wounds still raw and weeping, he is extremely careful in his presentations. The only time Krakauer leaves the first-person perspective is to piece together what happened to those who died while he was not present Krakauer was one of the first to summit Everest on May 10, , and made it back to camp before the dying started in earnest. Typically, I am wary of memoirs, since they are usually a vehicle for self-promotion or self-defense. Krakauer struggles a bit with being both journalist and participant, of both reporting the action and being part of it. For the most part, though, he strikes a good balance. Indeed, Krakauer reserves his harshest words for himself, and a hypoxia-induced mistake he made that contributed to the death of one of the climbers. To the extent that Krakauer provides a theory of the disaster, he attributes it to the crowds, with multiple expeditions trying to reach the summit during the same good-weather window. This led to traffic jams that turned the fixed ropes up the mountain into a Himalayan version of a Costco checkout line during a pandemic. There is a saying that the first guy through the door always gets hit. For instance, the famed mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev felt compelled to pen — with a cowriter — his own account of the catastrophe, after Krakauer tepidly chided Boukreev for attempting to summit without supplemental oxygen while acting as a guide. With the passage of so much time, I have absolutely zero interest in parsing all the different accounts, of trying to keep track of the directions all the fingers are pointing. When you get near the top, you are subject to hypoxia, which hits everyone differently, and can strike down even the most veteran climber. To say this event was a tragedy requires some modification. If this was a tragedy, it was of the high-tax bracket, entirely- avoidable variety. To make a supported climb on Everest requires a chunk of change that is quite a bit higher than the median income in the United States. Dying on Everest — unless you are a Sherpa — is a privilege few can afford. To not only risk your life, but to pay handsomely for the opportunity, is partly an ego trip. Yet it is impossible not to stand a bit in awe of those who make the attempt. As Krakauer points out, the summit becomes an obsession for many, one that cannot simply be explained away as a premeditated lunge for the best cocktail party story ever. There is something mysterious in a person who insists on trudging past the deadline, who — like Mallory in — refuses to simply turn on their heels and return home, and instead keeps reaching for the apex, as time and breath wind down to nothing. There is a cost to Everest that Krakauer aptly shows cannot be translated into hard currency. View all 12 comments. Nov 30, Michelle rated it liked it Recommends it for: mountaineers, adventure lovers, crazy people. Shelves: non-fiction. This is not a review. So…These are a few things I learned from reading this book: 1. If a person decides to climb Everest, the This is not a review. If a person decides to climb Everest, they are likely to encounter dead bodies along the route up to the summit. Lobuje, which is on the way to Everest Base Camp, is a place that overflows with human excrement. While Krakauer was there in , he wrote "Huge stinking piles of human feces lay everywhere; it was impossible not to walk in it. Without the assistance of Sherpas, it is unlikely that climbers would be able to reach the summit at all. Besides schlepping tons of your crap, they also know the way, and they place climbing ropes and in some instances, repair ladders, so people will be able to ascend the trickier places. The place would also be a lot dirtier without them because they are partially responsible for removing some of the trash that Everest has accumulated over the years. One camp reported having around a thousand empty canisters of supplemental oxygen as I said below in a review comment, so I might as well stick it in here, too. On this particular excursion, two climbers got stuck on the mountain during a storm. They spent the night at 28, feet without shelter or supplemental oxygen and were believed to be dead. The guide sent to look for them the next day found them barely breathing after chipping off three inches of ice from their faces. Believing that they were beyond help, he left them there. One of the climbers, my personal hero, woke up from his coma hours later and was lucid enough to get himself back down to one of the camps. Sure, he lost half an arm, his nose, and all of the digits on his other hand to frostbite, but he's still alive. Oh, and sure, the events that happened on Mt. Everest in were tragic, but I do think the people who climb it know what they are risking. View all 20 comments. Nov 18, Paul Bryant rated it liked it Shelves: autobiography-memoir. This book suddenly became very relevant - no less than TEN climbers have died this week May on Everest. The reason for this horrible turn of events is given as inexperienced guides leading inexperienced climbers combined with the usual weather restrictions leading to these ghastly insane queueing situations : Yes, that's the top of the highest mountain in the world. It must have been used in a school at one point. Ask is he kisses your hair, then if he kisses anyone elses hair Always Spicy On page 88, in a different hand, we read Eric Conner, Feb 24 he asked me out And on page Troy is hot! In an attempt to be scrupulously correct, JK almost turns the events which killed eight people on Everest on May into a stolid police report. Lugging your mortal flesh into very high altitudes is madness. There was no forgetting that we were more than three miles above sea level. Walking left me wheezing for several minutes. If I sat up too quickly, my head reeled and vertigo set in. Sleep became elusive. Cuts and scrapes refused to heal. My appetite vanished… my arms and legs gradually began to wither to sticklike proportions. This was at 16, feet. The summit of Everest is 29, feet. The further you go up, the more likely you are to get HAPE high altitude pulmonary edema , where you froth blood, lapse into a coma and die or HACE High altitude cerebral edema , where you become deranged, lapse into a coma and die. Krakauer is also keen to deny that mountaineers are adrenalin junkies. We lubbers may imagine that when they get to the summit they experience some great euphoria. Not at all, he says. Getting up a mountain is grinding your way through great pain in the knowledge that getting back down from the summit is more dangerous than getting up to it. Mountaineering does not sound like a healthy outdoor pursuit to me. A lot of ridiculous rich white people want to do it. So they join guided expeditions. On an Everest expedition there are three classes of people. The guides — these are the white expert mountaineers who organise everything and guarantee client safety The clients — these are the rich white people who have nothing better to do. 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