TRANSITTING THROUGH DJIBOUTI Trip Oferitrea Orethiopia,Thisistheplace
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© Lonely Planet Publications 284 www.lonelyplanet.com DJIBOUTI CITY •• Information 285 TRANSITTING THROUGH DJIBOUTI Internet Access Transitting Through PRACTICALITIES There’s a slew of Internet outlets in the Djibouti uses the metric system and centre. The following ones offer the best DJIBOUTI distances are in kilometres. connections. Cyber Cafe Filga Informatique (rue de Paris; per hr Djibouti Electricity in Djibouti is 220V. European DFr300; h7am-12.30pm & 4-10pm Sat-Thu, 4-10pm Fri) two-prong plugs are mainly used. TRANSITTING THROUGH Easy Internet (rue de Londres; per hr DFr400; Local newspapers are published weekly h7.30am-1pm & 4-11pm Sat-Thu, 4-11pm Fri) Djibouti might be one of the tiniest, youngest and least-known nations in Africa; it could in French. They include La Nation and also well be the most talented or, depending on your perspective, the most opportunistic. Réalité. Medical Services While Eritrea and Ethiopia, its larger and more powerful neighbours, are embroiled in what TV programmes are in Somali, Afar, CHA Bouffard (%351351; Boulaos district) The best seems to be a never-ending border dispute, Djibouti stands out as a haven of stability and Arab and French. equipped hospital, south of the city. Pôle Médical (%352724; hSat-Thu) A well-equipped neutrality. The country’s leaders cleverly maintain good relations with their unruly neigh- clinic run by French doctors who can speak English. It’s off bours. Djibouti’s port is now Ethiopia’s main hub for imports and exports. Place du 27 Juin 1977. As long as the border between Ethiopia and Eritrea remains closed, Djibouti is the obvi- DJIBOUTI CITY Money ous transit point for those travellers who want to visit the two countries in a single trip. It At the time of writing the two ATMs in is well connected to both, whether by air or by land. But, you would miss out if you limited Djibouti City is not your average African Djibouti City were not functioning and your experience of Djibouti to a few hours or even a full day waiting for a connecting flight, capital. Coming from Eritrea or eastern there were no plans to fix them up. Your Ethiopia, many travellers are surprised to best bet is to rely on cash. If you’re short of train or bus. Djibouti is much more than a stopping point on the road to Eritrea or Ethiopia. discover that it is an active and fairly cosmo- funds, the BCIMR is an agent for Western Why not settle in for a few days and enjoy its dishevelled nightlife, culinary delights and politan city that tries hard to be recognised Union (%358885; Place Lagarde; h8.15am-12.30pm well-organised infrastructure? Or visit its surreal hinterland? Sure, Djibouti will put a dent as the little Dubai in the Red Sea. Tradition- & 4-6pm Sun-Thu). in your wallet but if you need to recharge the batteries before (or after) a serious overland ally robed Afar tribesmen, stalwart French BCIMR Place Lagarde (%358885; h7.30-11.45am % trip of Eritrea or Ethiopia, this is the place. legionnaires (and the odd GI), sensuous So- Sun-Thu); Plateau du Serpent ( 353143; ave F. d’Esperey; mali glamour kittens and frazzled business- h7.45-11.45am & 4-5.30pm Sun-Thu) Doesn’t accept men with the latest mobile phones stuck to travellers cheques but can do cash advances on credit cards their ear all jostle side by side. (Visa only). For cash transactions, a flat fee of DFr500 is While it’s not exactly a diamond in the charged. The ave F. d’Esperey branch is less crowded. rough, it boasts good infrastructure but doesn’t come cheap – be prepared for a There are also two authorised bureaus de financial shock. If you’re into clubbing, Dji- change around Place Lagarde and one at bouti City offers a couple of lively options the airport. right in the centre. For more on things to do Bureau de change (%821970; international airport; in Djibouti, see the boxed text, p288 . h7.30am-1pm & 4pm-last departure Sat-Thu, 4pm-last INFORMATION Embassies & Consulates FAST FACTS Djiboutian diplomatic representation abroad is scarce, but there are embassies in Ethiopia ATMs: two in Djibouti City but they and Eritrea (see p260 and p359 ). In countries were not functioning at the time of without representation, travellers should writing head for the French embassy, which acts for Best season: October to March Djibouti in the issuing of visas. Borders: Eritrea and Ethiopia open Most foreign embassies in Djibouti City are located on Plateau du Serpent, north of Capital: Djibouti City the city centre. Languages: Arabic, French, Afar, Somali Canada (%/fax 355950; Place Lagarde) Money: Djibouti Franc (DFr); Eritrea (%354961; fax 250212; Plateau du Serpent) US$1 = DFr175.19 Ethiopia (%350718; fax 354803; ave F. d’Esperey) Telephone: country code %253; inter- France (%350963; www.ambafrance-dj.or; ave F. national access code %00 d’Esperey) USA (%353995; www.djibouti.usembassy.gov; Plateau Time: GMT/UTC + 3h du Serpent) 286 DJIBOUTI CITY •• Sleeping www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com DJIBOUTI CITY •• Eating & Drinking 287 TRANSITTING THROUGH DJIBOUTI departure Fri) At the airport (cash only) but the rates are telephone outlets scattered around the city this converted villa boasts a mixed bag of slightly inferior to the ones offered in the centre. centre. DJIBOUTI VISAS rooms, so ask to see a few. If you’re a light Dilip Corporation (%352857; Place du 27 Juin 1977; Main post office (blvd de la République; h7am-1pm All visitors, including nationals of France, sleeper, be prepared to be lulled by the call to DJIBOUTI h8am-noon & 4-7.30pm Sat-Thu) Changes cash (no & 4-7pm Sat-Thu) North of the centre. need visas. Tourist visas cost from US$30 to prayer emanating from the nearby mosque. commission) and does cash advances on Visa and Master- US$60 and are usually valid for one month. Hotel Horseed (%352316; blvd du Général de Card but doesn’t accept travellers cheques. Tourist Information Visas can be obtained at the nearest Dji- Gaulle; s/d with shared bathroom DFr5000/7500; a) TRANSITTING THROUGH Mehta (%353719; Place du 27 Juin 1977; Tourist office (%352800; www.office-tourisme.dj in bouti embassy (including Addis Ababa and The Horseed won’t feature in the pages of h7.30am-7.30pm Sun-Thu) Next door to Dilip (same French; rue de Foucauld; h7am-1pm Sat-Thu, 4-6pm Asmara if you’re in the Horn) or, where there the Condé Nast Traveller and its location is family), Mehta also changes cash (no commission) and Sat, Mon & Wed) To the southeastern side of Place du 27 is none, from the French embassy. Note that not the most prepossessing, but the prices usually accepts travellers cheques but charges a whopping Juin 1977. Sells a map of the country for DFr300 and gives travellers from most Western countries can are competitive and the rooms presentable. 6% commission. It can also do cash advances on Visa and a free photocopy of a map of the city. also obtain tourist visas on arrival at the air- Air-con is extra (DFr500). MasterCard but the rates are inferior to the ones offered port: leave your passport at the Immigra- by the BCIMR. SLEEPING tion Office and you get it stamped the next EATING & DRINKING Grit your teeth: the choice of budget ac- day or, if you’re really lucky, within a couple The city is endowed with a smattering of Post & Telephone commodation is limited. of hours. It costs DFr3000 for 10 days and restaurants that will please most palates – The most convenient places to make an in- Hotel Ali Sabieh (%353264; ave Georges Clem- DFr5000 for one month. a testimony to the French presence. OK, it ternational or a local call are the various enceau; s DFr9400-10,500, d DFr12,700; a) One of doesn’t come cheap, especially if you come from Ethiopia, but at least it’s worth every 0 40 km the most reliable options in town. Top mouthful. Splurge! There’s also a smattering DJIBOUTI 0 20 miles marks go to the clean-smelling rooms, the of watering holes off Place du 27 Juin 1977. Assab back-friendly mattresses and the immacu- Chez Marco (%828087; mains DFr1600-2600; hlunch R E D Y E M E N filet de boeuf S E A late bathrooms. Another plus is its position, & dinner Tue-Sun) Hmm, will it be sauce roquefort The international boundaries on right in the thick of things. (fillet of beef with roquefort this map serve as indications only. Bab al- Bed & Breakfast La Maison Blanche (%869935, escalope de poulet au citron The Ethiopia–Eritrea border awaits cheese sauce) or formal UN demarcation. Doumeïra vert Rahaita Mandab 352176; Le Heron district; r incl breakfast DFr12,000-15,000; (chicken with lemon sauce)? This very E R I T R E A hAug; ais) La Maison Blanche is sev- French outpost serves delectable fare with a Périm Island Straits (Yemen) enth heaven if you need to pamper yourself Mediterranean twist in a welcoming, light- Moulhoulé Ras Siyan after a tiring overland trip. Picture this: a toned interior. It’s off Place du 27 Juin 1977. gleaming white villa that used to be an am- La Table de Julien (%357355; ave F. d’Esperey; Mount Les Sept Frères Moussa Ali mains DFr1900-2500; hlunch Sat-Thu, dinner Mon-Sat) (2063m) Khor Angor bassador’s residence, two generous rooms ᝲ ὅὅ with all mod cons, bathrooms so scrupu- Opposite the railway station, this terribly Forêt de E T H I O P I A Dalha Magdoul Mountains lously clean you could eat off the floor, a French venue was the flavour of the month ὅὅὅ secluded garden and a nifty pool in which to when we visited.