Posture Modification Effects Using Soft Materials Structures A
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Posture Modification Effects Using Soft Materials Structures A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA BY Saemee Lyu IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Karen L. LaBat, Adviser June 2016 © Saemee Lyu, 2016 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank my adviser, Dr. Karen LaBat, for all of the help and effort she has given me while I studied at the University of Minnesota. She has directed and inspired me and helped me learn in various ways. I greatly appreciate her. I would also like to thank my committee members – Dr. Elizabeth Bye, Dr. Barbara Martinson, and Dr. Lucy Dunne. They gave me valuable suggestions and perspectives for my doctoral research project. I also want to thank Dr. Sauman Chu for her encouragement in her class and for serving as my professional reference. I would like to acknowledge support from units within the College of Design including the Department of Design, Housing, and Apparel for providing graduate research assistantships, a grant and other resources; and the Human Dimensioning© Laboratory for providing research facilities and equipment for my doctoral research project. Acknowledgement is extended to the National Science Foundation (NSF) that funded initial establishment of the Human Dimensioning© Laboratory. I appreciate my dear friends who have helped me successfully complete my Ph.D., Jisun Sun, Nayeon Yoo, Minjung Park, and Grace Payer. I also want to thank my fellow graduate students who have given me valuable advice regarding completion of the doctoral process, Dr. Angella Kim and Dr. Jayoung Koo. I would like to extend thanks to all of my friends who have prayed for my happiness and success and all other College of Design faculty and staff. Above all, I gratefully thank my family, my father and mother who are the best advisers and supporters in my life, my brother who is the best close friend and supporter, i and truly beloved pet, Chadol. I would want to extend thanks to my big family for their love and encouragement. ii ABSTRACT The purpose of this study was to develop a textile component system mimicking anatomical structures that when added to a typical shapewear product will straighten and balance a person’s posture. The experimental system is referred to as the “Posture Modification System using Soft materials structures” or PMSS. Current posture modification garments fall into two categories: 1) health and rehabilitation garments focused on physical changes using rigid materials and 2) lingerie-type garments typically called shapewear that focus on achieving an ideal body using compression qualities of knit fabrics. This study explored the middle ground of designing a comfortable, wearable product that aligns posture using textile correction forces strategically placed in the garment. A biomimicry approach was used in designing the prototype using the inspiration of anatomical features of a woman’s torso to determine size and placement of textile components (PMSS) in a garment. A prototype was developed by incorporating the PMSS into a commercially available shapewear product. After a pilot test, the prototype was refined and a more comprehensive test was conducted. Twelve women participated in the study to determine effectiveness of the prototype including: 1) posture changes, 2) posture correction force, and 3) wearer acceptability. Participants were scanned three times; while wearing the prototype, wearing a typical shapewear product, and in their own underwear. Posture differences in wear conditions were analyzed. Posture correction forces of the textile materials were measured using standard fabric tests. Participants completed questionnaires on wearer acceptability. iii Results included: 1) body angle assessment indicated that wearing the prototype affected posture including more balanced shoulders, aligned lateral center of gravity, and straighter spine, 2) textile characteristics of the PMSS incorporated into a shapewear compression garment contribute to a more erect and balanced posture, and 3) participants were more satisfied with posture and body shape when wearing the prototype then when wearing the shapewear garment. This study indicates that the inherent properties of textiles (compression and tensile force from stretch) can be manipulated in a garment in various ways to modify posture. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES .................................................................................................... viii LIST OF FIGURES .................................................................................................... ix CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION .........................................................................1 Statement of Problem ..................................................................................................1 Statement of Purpose ...................................................................................................3 Objectives ....................................................................................................................3 Research Questions......................................................................................................4 Significance of Study...................................................................................................4 Limitations ...................................................................................................................5 Definitions of Terms ....................................................................................................6 CHAPTER TWO: REVIEW OF LITERATURE .....................................................9 Product Development ..................................................................................................9 Posture .......................................................................................................................11 Human Posture in Context .................................................................................11 Posture: Physical Perspective .........................................................................11 Posture: Social/Psychological Perspective .......................................................12 Posture Modification Methods ...........................................................................15 Physical Therapy and Biofeedback .................................................................16 Orthoses .......................................................................................................17 Fashion Shapewear as a Posture Modification Garment ....................................19 Posture Assessment Methods .............................................................................21 Qualitative Methods ......................................................................................21 Quantitative Methods .....................................................................................22 Posture Correction Force ...........................................................................................26 Clothing Pressure ..........................................................................................26 Measuring Correction Force Using Pressure Sensors ........................................27 Measuring Correction Force of Stretchable Fabrics ..........................................30 Wearer Acceptability .................................................................................................32 Summary ....................................................................................................................34 CHAPTER THREE: METHOD ................................................................................36 Design Process ...........................................................................................................37 Description of Design Process ...................................................................................38 First Stage: Problem Definition & Research ......................................................38 First Stage: Problem Definition & Research: Application .................................38 Problem Identification ...................................................................................38 Working Problem Definition & Preliminary Research ......................................39 Second Stage: Creative Exploration ...................................................................41 Second Stage: Creative Exploration: Application ..............................................42 Preliminary Design Ideas ...............................................................................42 Investigation of Prior Arts ..............................................................................51 v Design Element Selection ..............................................................................53 Preliminary Prototype Development ...............................................................55 Evaluation of Prototype: Pilot Test .................................................................60 Third Stage: Comprehensive Test and Evaluation .............................................66 Third Stage: Comprehensive Test and Evaluation: Application ........................66 Revised Prototype Development .....................................................................67 Sampling Procedure .......................................................................................70 Data Collection Procedure ..............................................................................71