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here’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun- l i P o n

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Here you’ll ﬁ nd palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainfor- o a a S C n e ( a a

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an endless surf. The possibilities for adventure—and relaxation—are a o e i p a l u t l a I H i o a i C a u h N l K a l endless. Each of the six main islands is separate, distinct, and inﬁ - u e e C h K o n a a l n n K i o i l a E e a i A h h

nitely complex. There’s far too much to see and do on any 2-week h a i W a P C K L A

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before you get on that “free” snorkeling trip. That’s where this guide comes in. As U e H u i I l a

a Hawaii resident, I can tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. This book A u L l O o will steer you away from the crowded, the overrated, and the overpriced—and C n o A H toward the best Hawaii has to offer. No matter what your budget, this guide will r o b a r P w help ensure that every dollar is well spent. a a i h e l H a

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THE BEACHES n t best C a s N l I a s I E A

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Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the

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(Big Island): This half-mile-long crescent regularly wins kudos a o r C s o s u

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you’ll see why: Perfect cream-colored sand slopes down to crystal-clear waters P an n A h d J that are great for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurﬁ ng in summer; come C y i S h a winter, waves thunder in like stampeding horses. The facilities for picnicking k A la I

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A R and camping are top-notch, and there’s plenty of parking. See p. 321. a ST

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004_497654-ch01.indd4_497654-ch01.indd 3 111/20/091/20/09 2:34:262:34:26 PMPM 1 W Kapalua Beach (Maui): On an island with many great beaches, Kapalua takes the prize. This golden crescent with swaying palms is protected from strong winds and currents by two outstretched lava-rock promontories. Its calm waters are perfect for snorkeling, swimming, and kayaking. Facilities include showers, restrooms, and lifeguards. See p. 503. W Papohaku Beach (Molokai): These gold sands stretch on for some 3 miles (it’s one of Hawaii’s longest beaches) and are about as wide as a football ﬁ eld. Offshore the ocean churns mightily in winter, but the waves die down in summer, making the calm waters inviting for swimming. It’s also great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets. See p. 588. W Hulopoe Beach

The Best Island Experiences Best The (Lanai): This golden, palm-fringed beach off the south coast

of Lanai gently slopes down to the azure waters of a Marine Life Conservation

District, where clouds of tropical fi sh fl ourish and spinner dolphins come to play. A tide pool in the lava rocks defi nes one side of the bay, while the other is lorded over by the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay, which sits prominently on the hill above. Offshore you’ll fi nd good swimming, snorkeling, and diving; onshore there’s a full complement of beach facilities, from restrooms to camping areas. See p. 621. W Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed by verdant cliffs, this curvaceous North Shore beach has starred as Paradise in many a movie. It’s easy to see why Hollywood

THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST loves Haena Beach, with its grainy golden sand and translucent turquoise waters. Summer months bring calm waters for swimming and snorkeling; winter brings mighty waves for surfers. There are plenty of facilities on hand, including picnic tables, restrooms, and showers. See p. 688. THE best ISLAND EXPERIENCES W Hitting the Beach: A beach is a beach is a beach, right? Not in Hawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, and reefs, plus a general coastline of 750 miles, Hawaii has beaches in all different shapes, sizes, and colors, including black. The variety on the six major islands is astonishing; you could go to a different beach every day for years and still not see them all. For the best of a spectacular bunch, see “The Best Beaches,” above. W Taking the Plunge: Don mask, ﬁ ns, and snorkel to explore Hawaii’s magical underwater world, where exotic corals and kaleidoscopic clouds of tropical ﬁ sh await you—a sea turtle may even come over to check you out. Can’t swim? That’s no excuse—take one of the many submarine tours offered by Atlantis Submarines ( 800/548-6262; www.go-atlantis.com) on Oahu, the Big Island, and Maui. Check out the “Watersports” section in each island chapter for more information on all these underwater adventures. W Meeting Local Folks: If you go to Hawaii and see only people like the ones back home, you might as well not have come. Extend yourself—leave your hotel, go out and meet the locals, and learn about Hawaii and its people. Just

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7 2 : THE BEST OF HAWAII The Best Island Experiences 5 1 4 3 : 2

9 0 / 0 2 / 1 USS 111/20/09 2:34:27 PM 808/322- ( Captain Dan (Oahu): The United States (Oahu): The United Memorial, where World War War Memorial, where World Memorial at Pearl Harbor. www.nps.gov/usar)—the eternal www.nps.gov/usar)—the Missouri Missouri high-speed sailingatables to high-tech, The USS USS The 808/422-0561; ( If you happen to be in Hawaii during humpback-whale If you happen to be in Hawaii Memorial www.ilovewhales.com) takes you right to the whales year-round (pi- takes you right to the whales year-round www.ilovewhales.com) 5

d d II came to an end. The Japanese signed their surrender on the deck of this Japanese signed their surrender on the deck II came to an end. The September 2, 1945. See p. 244. 58,000-ton battleship on season (roughly Dec–Apr), don’t miss the opportunity to see these gentle gi- season (roughly Dec–Apr), don’t inﬂ A host of boats—from small ants. cruises on every island. Onecatamarans—provide a range of whale-watching Kona Coast, where of my favorites is along the Big Island’s Adventures Whale-Watching Year-Round McSweeney’s Arizona could turn its back on World War II no longer after December 7, 1941, when II no longer after December War World could turn its back on Standing on the deck of the Harbor. Pearl Japanese warplanes bombed Watching for Whales: for Watching smile and say “Owzit?”—which means “How is it?” (“It’s good,” is the usual good,” “How is it?” (“It’s “Owzit?”—which means smile and say Hawaii is remark- to making a new friend. you’re on your way response)—and ethnic group in the world seems to be representedably cosmopolitan; every and customs. a huge diversity of food, culture, language, here. There’s Harbor at Pearl Alive Come History Feeling 0028; and beaked whales call pygmy killer, melon-headed, lot, sperm, false killer, A whale researcher in residence). Hawaii home even when humpbacks aren’t drops an underwater micro- for more than 25 years, Captain Dan frequently can listen to whale songs andphone or video camera into the depths so you going on. See p. 362. maybe even see what’s tomb for the 1,177 sailors and Marines trapped below when the battleship and Marines trapped below when the tomb for the 1,177 sailors Also in a moving experience you’ll never forget. sank in just 9 minutes—is you can visit the USS Harbor, Pearl n i

. 1 W W 0 h c Snorkeling in Hawaii. Snorkeling - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 5 1 The Best Island Experiences Best The

Whale watching. THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST W Creeping up to the Ooze (Big Island): Kilauea volcano has been adding land to the Big Island continuously since 1983. In 2007, the volcano goddess Pele blew smoke and plumage into the air from the main crater of Halemaumau. If conditions are right, you can walk up to the red-hot lava and see it ooze along, or you can stand at the shoreline and watch with awe as 2,000°F (1,092°C) molten fi re pours into the ocean. You can also take to the air in a helicopter and see the volcano goddess’s work from above. See p. 405. W Going Big-Game Fishing off the Kona Coast (Big Island): Don’t pass up the opportunity to try your luck in the sportfi shing capital of the world, where 1,000-pound marlin are taken from the sea just about every month of the year. Not looking to set a world record? Kona’s charter-boat captains special- ize in conservation and will be glad to tag any fi sh you angle, and then let it go so someone else can have the fun of fi ghting a big-game fi sh tomorrow. See p. 363. W Greeting the Rising Sun from atop Haleakala (Maui): Bundle up in warm clothing, fi ll a thermos full of hot java, and drive up to the summit to watch the sky turn from inky black to muted charcoal as a small sliver of orange light forms on the horizon. There’s something about standing at 10,000 feet, breathing in the rarefi ed air, and watching the fi rst rays of sun streak across the sky. This is a mystical experience of the fi rst magnitude. See p. 541. W Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa (Molokai): If you have only a day to spend on Molokai, spend it on a mule. The trek from “topside” Molokai to Kalaupapa National Historical Park (Father Damien’s world-famous leper colony) with

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9 2 7 THE BEST OF HAWAII The Best Island Experiences : 1 4 3 : 2

9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:29 PM 808/661- ( www.dollar.com) www.dollar.com) 888/MAUI-800 888/MAUI-800 ( rights to Hulopoetter with Trilogy 800/588-7808; www.muleride.com) is a once-in-a- www.muleride.com) ( (Kauai): This is the only way to see the spec- (from Maui): If you’d like to visit Lanai but have (from Maui): If you’d 800/567-7550; ( Dollar Rent-A-Car Expeditions Lahaina/Lanai Passenger Ferry Expeditions Lahaina/Lanai Passenger www.sailtrilogy.com) leads an all-day sailing, snorkeling, and leads an all-day www.sailtrilogy.com) and swooping down into the canyonsuttering past sparkling waterfalls www.go-lanai.com) from Maui to Lanai, and then rent a four-wheel- from Maui to Lanai, and then rent a www.go-lanai.com) 7

d on the Big Island. ow d for a day of backcountry exploring and beach fun. See chapter 9. for a day of backcountry exploring and beach only a day to spare, consider taking a day trip. only a day to spare, consider tacular, surreal beauty of Kauai. Your helicopter will dip low over razor-thin helicopter will dip low over razor-thin Your Kauai. surreal beauty of tacular, cliffs, ﬂ too Coast. The only problem is that there’s and valleys of the fabled Na Pali rush. See p. 714. much beauty to absorb, and it all goes by in a Soaring over the Na Pali Coast the Na Pali Soaring over [628-4800]; is the only outﬁ Trilogy whale-watching adventure. You a minivan tour of the little isle (pop. 3,500). Beach, and the trip includes can also take down the trail. The views are breathtaking: You’ll see the world’s highest sea see the world’s You’ll are breathtaking: down the trail. The views p. 601. thousands of feet into the ocean. See cliffs and waterfalls plunging Lanai to Trip a Day Taking Molokai Mule Ride Molokai Mule but Buzzy than 300-story skyscrapers, The cliffs are taller lifetime adventure. rain 3-mile trail daily, surefooted mules go up and down the narrow Sproat’s the 26 switchbacks. Even if never lost a rider or a mount on or shine, and he’s pass up the opportunity to see to mule or helicopter in, don’t afford you can’t hik- peninsula. If you’re in good shape and brought this hauntingly beautiful and hike can get a permit (available at the trail head) ing boots with you, you 3756; drive vehicle from n i

. 1 W W 0 h c A lava ﬂ A lava - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 7 1 THE best OF NATURAL HAWAII W Volcanoes: The entire island chain is made of volcanoes; don’t miss the opportunity to see one. On Oahu, the entire family can hike to the top of ancient, world-famous Diamond Head (p. 219). At the other end of the spectrum is ﬁ re-breathing Kilauea at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, on the Big Island, where you can get an up-close-and-personal experience with the red-hot lava ooze (p. 405). On Maui, Haleakala National Park provides a bird’s-eye view into a long-dormant volcanic crater (p. 521).

The Best of Natural Hawaii of Natural Best The W Waterfalls: Rushing waterfalls thundering downward into sparkling freshwater pools are some of Hawaii’s most beautiful natural wonders. If you’re on the

Big Island, stop by Rainbow Falls (p. 404), in Hilo, or the spectacular 442- foot Akaka Falls (p. 397), just outside Hilo. On Maui, the Road to Hana offers numerous viewing opportunities; at the end of the drive, you’ll ﬁ nd Oheo Gulch (also known as the Seven Sacred Pools), with some of the most dramatic and accessible waterfalls on the islands (p. 554). Kauai is loaded with waterfalls, especially along the North Shore and in the Wailua area, where you’ll ﬁ nd 40-foot Opaekaa Falls (p. 719), probably the best-looking drive- up waterfall on Kauai. With scenic mountain peaks in the background and

THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST a restored Hawaiian village on the nearby riverbanks, the Opaekaa Falls are what the tourist-bureau folks call an eye-popping photo op. W Gardens: The islands are redolent with the sweet scent of ﬂ owers. For a glimpse of the full breadth and beauty of Hawaii’s spectacular range of tropical

Kauai’s Opaekaa Falls. Foster Botanical Garden on Oahu. 8

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:31 PM just off (p. 202), Manele and owing into a sin- Molokini, Liliuokalani Gardens Hanauma Bay Kula Botanical Garden Foster Botanical Garden Foster owers bloom only at night. On (p. 202) and at spending an afternoon ora, I suggest (p. 400), the largest formal Japanese gar- (p. 400), the largest formal resembles a post- den this side of Tokyo, Asia, with bonsai, carp ponds, card from bridge.pagodas, and even a moon-gate At Maui’s white ﬂ the Big Island, a leisurely self- (p. 546), you can take guided stroll through more than 700 native and exotic plants, including orchids, proteas, and bromeliads. On lush Kauai, Aina Kai Botanical Gardens Na (p. 721), on some 240 acres, is sprin- kled with around 70 life-size (some whimsical bronze larger-than-life-size) statues, hidden off the beaten path of the North Shore. ﬂ high- On Oahu, amid the a lush garden. the leafyrises of downtown Honolulu, oasis of native Hawaiian(p. 247) showcases 26 of several raretrees and the last stand African, whose trees, including an East Nine underwater parks are spread across (p. 368), on the Big Island; (Lanai): Out on Lanai’s north shore lies the ultimate (Lanai): Out on Lanai’s Waikiki Beach Waikiki (Kauai): This valley, known for its reddish lava beds, re- known for its reddish lava (Kauai): This valley, (p. 623). Be sure to bring snorkel gear to at least one of these (p. 623). Be sure to bring snorkel gear to at least Kealakekua Bay 9

d d Surfers on the beach at sunset. on Surfers lands or mystical garden? Take a four-wheel-drive trip out here and decide for trip out here and decide a four-wheel-drive lands or mystical garden? Take yourself. See p. 628. rock garden: a rugged, barren, beautiful place full of rocks strewn by volca- rock garden: a rugged, barren, beautiful place a variety of shapes and colors— nic forces and molded by the elements into Scientists use phrases such asbrilliant reds, oranges, ochers, and yellows. badlands” to describe the“ongoing posterosional event” or “plain and simple considered the however, desolate, windswept place. The ancient Hawaiians, phenomenon. Natural bad- Garden of the Gods to be an entirely supernatural Waimea Canyon Waimea Marine Life Conservation Areas: Conservation Marine Life Garden of the Gods minds everyone who sees it of Arizona’s Grand Canyon. Kauai’s version is Grand Canyon. Kauai’s Arizona’s minds everyone who sees it of smaller— just like its namesake, but it’s color, bursting with ever-changing All this grandeur was only a mile wide, 3,567 feet deep, and 12 miles long. caused by a massive earthquake that sent all the streams ﬂ can stop by the You which then carved this picturesque canyon. gle river, See road and look at it, hike down into it, or swoop through it by helicopter. p. 698. Hawaii, most notably on Oahu; the coast of Maui (see “Watersports” in chapter 7); and Lanai’s in chapter 7); and Lanai’s the coast of Maui (see “Watersports” Hulopoe bays wonderful places during your vacation. n i

. 1 W W W 0 h c - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 9 1 THE best OF UNDERWATER HAWAII W Hanauma Bay (Oahu): It can get crowded, but for clear, warm, calm waters; an abundance of ﬁ sh that are so friendly they’ll swim right up to your face mask; a beautiful setting; and easy access, there’s no place like Hanauma Bay. Just wade in waist-deep and look down to see more than 50 species of reef and inshore ﬁ sh. Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow inner bay—it’s like swimming in an outdoor aquarium. Serious divers shoot “the slot,” a passage through the reef, to enter Witch’s Brew, a turbulent cove. See p. 202. W Kahaluu Beach (Big Island): The calm, shallow waters of Kahaluu are perfect for beginning snorkelers or those who are unsure of their swimming abilities The Best of Underwater Hawaii of Underwater Best The

and want the comfort of being able to stand up at any time. The sunlight

through the shallow waters casts a dazzling spotlight on the colorful sea life and coral formations. If you listen closely, you can actually hear the parrotfi sh feeding. See p. 356. W Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Mile-wide Kealakekua Bay, at the foot of massive U-shaped sea cliffs, is rich with marine life, snorkelers, and history. A white obelisk marks the spot where, in 1778, the great British navigator Capt. James Cook, who charted most of the Pacifi c, was killed by Hawaiians. The bay itself is a marine sanctuary that teems with schools of polychromatic tropical fi sh. See p. 368. THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST W Molokini (Maui): The islet of Molokini is shaped like a crescent moon that fell from the sky. Its shallow concave side serves as a sheltering backstop against sea currents for tiny tropical fi sh; its opposite side is a deepwater cliff inhab- ited by spiny lobsters, moray eels, and white-tipped sharks. Neophyte snorkelers should report to the concave side, experienced scuba divers the other. The clear water and abundant marine life make this islet off the Makena coast one of Hawaii’s most popular dive spots, so expect crowds. See “Watersports” in chapter 7. W Kee Beach (Kauai): Where the road ends on the North Shore, you’ll fi nd a dandy little reddish-gold beach almost too beautiful to be real. It borders a reef-protected cove at the foot of fl uted volcanic cliffs. Swimming and snorkeling are safe inside the reef, where long-nosed butterfl y fi sh fl itter about and schools of taape (bluestripe snapper) swarm over the coral. See p. 688. THE best GOLF COURSES W Mauna Kea & Hapuna Golf Courses (Big Island; 808/882-5400 for Mauna Kea Golf Course, 808/880-3000 for Hapuna Golf Course): The Mauna Kea Golf Course, located out on the Kohala Coast, is everyone’s old favorite. One of the fi rst fi elds of play to be carved out of the black lava, the dramatic, always-challenging, par-72, 18-hole championship course is still one of Hawaii’s top three. The Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay–designed Hapuna Golf Course rests in the rolling foothills above Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel and provides a memorable links-style golf experience along with one of the best views of this unusual coast. See p. 375. 10

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:31 PM a wonder- designed by at, dry south (Big Island; ): On Kauai’s ﬂ Kauai’s On ): ock of native Hawaiian nene ): On Maui’s sunbaked south ): On Maui’s [527-2582]): Kapalua is probably [527-2582]): Kapalua Challenge at Manele, Experience at Koele, 808/742-8711 Mauna Lani golf course. hot spot for golf in the islands. Three resort hot spot for golf in the 808/875-7450 the 877/KAPALUA (Kauai; (Kauai; (Lanai): For quality and seclusion, nothing in Hawaii can quality and seclusion, (Lanai): For (Maui; ): Mauna Lani’s two resort courses, North and South, fea- resort courses, North two ): Mauna Lani’s (Maui; ): Here you’ll

c and the mid-Hawaiian islands. See p. 528. 1 1

d 808/885-6655 800/826-1105 nd 45 of the best tropical d shore is a 210-acre, links-style course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The Jones, Jr. by Robert Trent shore is a 210-acre, links-style course designed Slam of Golf, is not only sceni- course, which for years hosted the PGA Grand A fl cally spectacular but also a lot of fun to play. geese frequents the course’s lakes, and you can often see whales, monk seals, and green sea turtles along the shore. See p. 705. ture a combination of oceanfront and interior lava-lined holes; both offer oceanfront and interior lava-lined holes; both ture a combination of golf. See by strategic, championship-level wonderful scenery accompanied p. 375. Wailea Golf Club Wailea The Lanai Courses Golf Course Poipu Bay Golf Club Princeville Mauna Lani Francis H. I’i Brown Championship Courses Championship H. I’i Brown Francis Mauna Lani Resort Kapalua Jones, Jr. They range along Jones, Jr. green bluffs below sharp mountain peaks and offer stunning views in every di- rection. The 18-hole Prince Course, one of the top three courses in Hawaii, provides a round of golf few ever forget— among 390 acres of scenic tableland bisected by tropical jungles, waterfalls, streams, and ravines. See p. 706. fi holes of golf in the world, all the work of Robert Trent touch Lanai’s two resort courses. The touch Lanai’s Robinson and Greg Norman, and the Ted every hole, both rate amongful Jack Nicklaus effort with ocean views from best courses. See p. 626. Hawaii’s shore stands Wailea Resort, shore stands Wailea Championship played here each January. The Bay and Village courses are vin- courses are The Bay and Village here each January. Championship played is a strong Ben Crenshaw/ designs; the Plantation Course Arnold Palmer tage p. 527. Bill Coore design. See the best nationally known golf resort in Hawaii, thanks to the PGA Mercedes golf resort in Hawaii, thanks to the PGA the best nationally known courses complement a string of beachfront hotels: The Blue Course is an string of beachfront hotels: The Blue Course courses complement a is the mastermind Jones, Jr., while Robert Trent Arthur Jack Snyder design, All three offer outstanding views of the behind the Emerald and Gold courses. Pacifi n i

. 1 W W W W W W 0 h c - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 11 1 THE best ways TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN HAWAIIAN CULTURE W Experiencing the Hula: For a real, authentic hula experience on Oahu, check out the Bishop Museum (p. 236), which stages excellent performances on week- days, or head to the Halekulani’s House Without a Key (p. 149) The Best in Hawaiian Culture in Hawaiian Best The

at sunset to watch the enchanting

Kanoelehua Miller dance beautiful hula under a century-old kiawe tree. The ﬁ rst week after Easter brings Hawaii’s biggest and most prestigious hula extravaganza, the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival (p. 67), in Hilo on the Big Island; tickets sell out by January 30, so reserve early. In May, Molokai

THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST holds the Ka Hula Piko Festival (p. 592) at Papohaku Beach Park, a wonderful daylong affair that celebrates the hula on the island The Big Island’s Merrie Monarch Hula Festival. where it was born. W Watching the Ancient Hawaiian Sport of Canoe Paddling (Oahu): From February to September, on weekday evenings and weekend days, hundreds of canoe paddlers gather at Ala Wai Canal and practice the Hawaiian sport of canoe paddling. Find a comfortable spot at Ala Wai Park, next to the canal, and watch this ancient sport come to life. W Attending a Hawaiian-Language Church Service (Oahu): Kawaiahao Church ( 808/522-1333) is the Westminster Abbey of Hawaii. The ves- tibule is lined with portraits of the Hawaiian monarchy, many of whom were crowned in this very building. The coral church is a perfect setting in which to experience an all-Hawaiian service, held every Sunday at 9am, complete with Hawaiian song. Admission is free; let your conscience be your guide as to a donation. See p. 242. W Buying a Lei in Chinatown (Oahu): There’s actually a host of cultural sights and experiences to be had in Honolulu’s Chinatown. Wander through this several-square-block area with its jumble of exotic shops selling herbs, Chinese groceries, and acupuncture services. Before you leave, be sure to check out the lei sellers on Maunakea Street (near N. Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s ﬁ nest leis go for as little as $5. If you’d like a little guidance, you can follow the walking tour described on p. 287.

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. D . A 11/24/09 10:02:22 AM11/24/09 10:02:22 AM (Big Island): 808/885-6622; Mookini Heiau, near Mauna Lani (Big Island): On the Kohala Twilight at Kalahuipua’a, Twilight (Big Island): Archaeologists are still uncertain ex- (Big Island): (high priestess), Momi Mookini Lum, is on-site. See p. 390. (high priestess), Momi Mookini Lum, is on-site. Puako Petroglyph Archaeological District, Archaeological Puako Petroglyph used by kings to pray and offer human sacriﬁ ces. This massive three-story and offer human sacriﬁ used by kings to pray was erected in to Ku, the Hawaiian god of war, stone temple, dedicated www.maunalani.com/luxury-hawaii-resort-factsheet.htm). It hearkens back www.maunalani.com/luxury-hawaii-resort-factsheet.htm). on back when family and neighbors would gather to another time in Hawaii, See p. 428. and “talk story.” porches to sing, dance, (Big Island): Once a month, under a full moon, Once a month, under (Big Island): and culture that includes storytelling, singing, a celebration of the Hawaiian at Mauna Lani Resort ( dancing, takes place ocean-side This sacred site on the southern Kona Coast was once a place of refuge andThis sacred site on the southern Kona Coast can walk the same consecrated grounds You a revered place of rejuvenation. Visiting Ancient Hawaii’s Most Sacred Temple Sacred Most Ancient Hawaii’s Visiting Petroglyphs Hunting for Park Historical Exploring Puuhonua O Honaunau National Listening to Old-Fashioned “Talk Story” with Hawaiian Song and Dance with Hawaiian Story” “Talk Old-Fashioned to Listening actly what these ancient rock carvings mean. The majority are found in theactly what these ancient rock carvings mean. 233-acre hunt for these intricate depic- Resort on the Kohala Coast. The best time to or late afternoon, when thetions of ancient life is either early in the morning See p. 389. angle of the sun lets you see the forms clearly. Coast, where King Kamehameha the Great was born, stands Hawaii’s oldest, the Great was born, stands Hawaii’s Coast, where King Kamehameha religious site: the 1,500-year-old largest, and most sacred 480. It’s said that each stone was passed from hand to hand from Pololu Valley, Valley, from Pololu each stone was passed from hand to hand said that 480. It’s from sunset to sunrise. The best by 18,000 men who worked 14 miles away, the monthly cleanups when theway to see this sacred site is to help out with kahuna nui

W W W W Canoe paddling at Ala Wai Canal. Canoe paddling at Ala Wai 04_497654-ch01.indd 1304_497654-ch01.indd 13 1 THE WELCOMING lei

Nothing makes you feel more welcome than a lei. The tropical beauty of the delicate garland, the deliciously sweet fragrance of the blossoms, the sensual way the ﬂ owers curl softly around your neck—there’s no doubt about it: Getting lei’d in Hawaii is a sensuous experience. Leis are much more than just a dec- orative necklace of ﬂ owers—they’re also The Best in Hawaiian Culture in Hawaiian Best The one of the nicest ways to say “hello,”

“goodbye,” “congratulations,” “I salute

you,” “my sympathies are with you,” or “I love you.” During ancient times, leis given to alii (royalty) were accompanied by a bow, since it was kapu (forbidden) for a commoner to raise his arms higher than the king’s head. The presentation of a kiss with a lei didn’t come about until

THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST World War II; it’s generally attributed to an entertainer who kissed an offi cer on a dare and then quickly presented Leis are available at all of the him with her lei, saying it was an old islands’ airports, from fl orists, and even Hawaiian custom. It wasn’t then, but it at supermarkets. You can fi nd wonder- sure caught on fast. ful inexpensive leis at the half-dozen lei Lei making is a tropical art form. All shops on Maunakea Street in Honolulu’s leis are fashioned by hand in a variety Chinatown, and at Greene Acres Leis of traditional patterns; some are sewn ( 808/329-2399), off Kaimiminani with hundreds of tiny blooms or shells, Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivision, or bits of ferns and leaves. Some are across from the Kona Airport on the Big twisted, some braided, some strung. Island. If you plan ahead, you can also Every island has its own special fl ower arrange to have a lei-greeter meet you lei—the lei of the land, so to speak. On as you deplane; Greeters of Hawaii Oahu, the choice is ilima, a small orange ( 800/366-8559 or 808/836-3246; fl ower. Big Islanders prefer the lehua, www.greetersofhawaii.com) serves the a large, delicate red puff . On Maui, it’s Honolulu (Oahu), Kona (Big Island), the lokelani, a small rose; on Kauai, it’s Kahului (Maui), and Lihue (Kauai) the mokihana, a fragrant green vine airports. and berry; on Molokai, it’s the kukui, the Leis are the perfect symbol for the white blossom of a candlenut tree; and islands: They’re given in the moment, on Lanai, it’s the kaunaoa, a bright yel- and their fragrance and beauty are low moss. Residents of Niihau use the enjoyed in the moment, but even after island’s abundant seashells to make leis they fade, their spirit of aloha lives on. that were once prized by royalty and are Welcome to Hawaii! now worth a small fortune.

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9 0 / 0 2 / nest 1 cent 111/20/09 2:34:34 PM nd the magniﬁ nd the www.abhasa.com), is www.abhasa.com), www.royal-hawaiian.com): This www.royal-hawaiian.com): tunes of the 1930s and 1940s while www.halekulani.com): When price is www.halekulani.com): 808/922-8200; ( owered wallpaper, and period furniture. owered wallpaper, (Molokai): A time capsule of old Hawaii,A time (Molokai): hapa-haole Abhasa 800/325-3535; nest Waikiki has to offer (heck, I think it’s the ﬁ has to offer (heck, I think it’s nest Waikiki LUXURY HOTELS & & HOTELS LUXURY 800/367-2343; (Oahu; (Oahu; sea cliffs, as well as sand dunes, coral tallest ponds, and the world’s sh best 5 1

d amingo-pink oasis, hidden away among blooming gardens within the con- amingo-pink oasis, d tion of fi much the empty beaches. The island is pretty reefs, rainforests, and gloriously ago. See chapter 8. same Molokai of generations Molokai allows you to experience real Hawaiian life in its most unsullied experience real Hawaiian life in its most Molokai allows you to values of ancient times into people have woven the cultural form. The island’s you’ll fi to this rich community, modern life. In addition its greatest collec- highest waterfall, Hawaii’s natural wonders it so cherishes: fl can step back in time by You a symbol of luxury. is crete jungle of Waikiki, which contain carved wooden staying in the rooms in the Historic Wing, canopy beds, fl doors, four-poster best spas, One of Waikiki’s Halekulani Hawaiian Royal where priests once conducted holy ceremonies and glimpse the ancient way ceremonies and glimpse once conducted holy where priests See p. 387. re-created 180-acre village. Hawaii in the of life in precontact Isle Hawaiian the Most Visiting no object, this is really the only place to stay. An oasis of calm amid the buzz, no object, this is really the only place to stay. this beach hotel is the fi stay here, pop by for a sunset mai tai to hear in the state). Even if you don’t Sonny Kamehele sing the old p. 149. a lovely hula dancer sways to the music. See See p. 151. located on the property. n i

. 1 W W W 0 h c THE RESORTS The Halekulani hotel. Halekulani The - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 15 1 W Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu; 800/367-2525; www.kahalaresort.com): After 11 years under the helm of the Mandarin Oriental Group, this grand old hotel changed management in 2006, after which it underwent a complete makeover, restoring the hotel’s former opulence, complete with Art Deco styl- ings. The location alone offers a similarly wonderful compromise: Situated in one of Oahu’s most prestigious residential areas, the Kahala provides the peace and serenity of a neighbor-island vacation, but with the conveniences of Waikiki just a 10-minute drive away. The lush, tropical grounds include an 800-foot crescent-shaped beach and a 26,000-square-foot lagoon (home to two bottle-nosed dolphins, sea turtles, and tropical ﬁ sh). See p. 165. W Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Kaupulehu (Big Island; 888/ 340-5662; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai): Private pools, unimpeded ocean views, excellent food, and a new 18-hole championship golf course—what

The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts Luxury Hotels Best The more could any mortal want? This new low-impact, high-ticket hideaway under the dormant Hualalai Volcano ups the ante with its residential resort of two-story bungalows clustered around ﬁ ve seaside swimming pools on a black lagoon. See p. 311. W Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (Big Island; 800/367-2323; www. panpaciﬁ c.com/maunalanibay): Burned out? In need of tranquillity and gorgeous surroundings? Look no further. Sandy beaches and lava tide pools are the focus of this serene seaside resort, where gracious hospitality is dispensed in a historic setting. From the lounge chairs on the pristine beach to the turndown service at night, everything here is done impeccably. The rooms THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST are arranged to capture maximum ocean views, and they surround interior atrium gardens and pools in which endangered baby sea turtles are raised. A shoreline trail leads across the whole 3,200-acre resort, giving you an intimate

Watching the sunrise from Haleakala.

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9 ; 0 / 0 2 / 1 www. 111/20/09 2:34:35 PM [6284] oors—this is oors—this www.fairmont. www.fairmont.com/ www.hotelhanamaui. ; 800/321-4666; c. The guest rooms havec. 800/334-MAUI 800/334-MAUI [4262] (Lanai; 800/845-9905;

(Maui; 800/659-4100; (Big Island; (Maui; 800/321-HANA (Maui; p. 322. sh ponds. See atscreen TVs, huge marble bathrooms, and semiprivate lanais. Seeatscreen TVs, huge marble bathrooms, and semiprivate 7 1

d d com): Picture Shangri-La, Hawaiian style: 66 acres rolling down to the seacom): Picture Shangri-La, Hawaiian style: 66 two pools, and access center, in a remote Hawaiian village, with a wellness ceilings, a plush feather bed,to one of the best beaches in Hana. Cathedral hardwood fl a giant-size soaking tub, Hawaiian artwork, bamboo The white-sand beach (just a 5-min. shuttle away), a top-notch well- luxury. in Hawaii, and numer- ness center with some of the best massage therapists tennis, pitch-and-putt golf)ous activities (horseback riding, mountain biking, the state. I highly recommendall add up to make this one of the top resorts in this little slice of paradise. See p. 502. The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui Kea The Fairmont Maui at Wailea Seasons Resort Four Hana-Maui Hotel Bay Lanai at Manele Seasons Resort Four glimpse into the ancient past, when people lived in lava caves and tended the people lived in lava the ancient past, when glimpse into of fi large complex Hawaii Orchid The Fairmont com/orchid): Located on 32 acres of oceanfront property, the Orchid is the the Orchid on 32 acres of oceanfront property, com/orchid): Located or any- cultural explorers, families with children, place for watersports nuts, beach re- lie back and soak up the sun. This elegant one who just wants to sites on of the spectacular ocean views and historic sort takes full advantage an excellent facilities here are extensive, and there’s its grounds. The sports p. 324. Hawaiiana program. See www.fourseasons.com/maui): This is the ultimate beach hotel for latter-day for latter-day This is the ultimate beach hotel www.fourseasons.com/maui): gracious service, and Wailea royals, with excellent cuisine, spacious rooms, Every guest best gold-sand strips, out the front door. Beach, one of Maui’s private lanai. The luxury suites,room has at least a partial ocean view from a and deluxe appointments.as big as some Honolulu condos, are full of marble See p. 465. kealani): This is the place to get your money’s worth: For the price of a hotel For worth: to get your money’s kealani): This is the place all-suite suite—plus a few extras. Each unit in this room, you get an entire and a living room with entertainment center luxury hotel has a kitchenette, an oversize have the kids in tow), a marble wet bar, sofa bed (great if you a spacious bed- for a party, marble bathroom with separate shower big enough lawns, and white-sand beach.room, and a large lanai that overlooks the pools, See p. 464. fourseasons.com/lanai): The well-known luxury hotel chain Four Seasons took hotel chain Four fourseasons.com/lanai): The well-known luxury a multimillion-dollar makeover management of this 236-unit resort after southern bluff overlooking Hulopoe on a sun-washed over in 2005. Perched stretches of golden sand, this U-shaped hotel best Beach, one of Hawaii’s steps down the hillside to the pool and the beach. Designed as a traditional oversize rooms, luxury beachfront hotel, the Manele Bay features open, airy, each with a breathtaking view of the big blue Pacifi been redone in the clean, crisp style of an elegant Hawaiian resort, with 40- inch fl p. 615. n i

. 1 W W W W W 0 h c - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 17 1 W Four Seasons Resort Lanai, The Lodge at Koele (Lanai; 800/321- 4666; www.fourseasons.com/lanai): The sister hotel to Manele Bay (see above), this luxury resort was renovated and rebranded a Four Seasons in 2006. A $50-million renovation gave all 102 guest rooms new carpeting, glass bath partitions, signature Four Seasons beds, 42-inch ﬂ atscreen TVs, new furniture, new fabrics, and high-speed Internet service. This inn, which resembles a grand English country estate, was built in 1991 and needed the makeover—the new look is spectacular. See p. 616. W Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa (Kauai; 800/55-HYATT [554-9288]; www.kauai.hyatt.com): This Art Deco beach hotel recalls Hawaii in the 1920s—before the crash—when gentlemen in blue blazers and ladies in summer frocks came to the islands to learn to surf and play the ukulele. The architecture and location, on the sunny side of Kauai, make this the island’s best hotel. The beach is a bit too rough for swimming, but the saltwater swimming pool is the biggest on the island. An old-fashioned reading room by the sea houses club chairs, billiards, and a bar well stocked with cognac and port. Nearby diversions include golf, horseback riding, and the shops of Koloa, a former plantation town. See p. 647. The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations Priced Moderately Best The

W St. Regis Princeville Resort (Kauai; 800/826-4400; www.stregis- princeville.com): This palace of green marble and sparkling chandeliers recalls Hawaii’s monarchy period of the 19th century. It’s set in one of the most remarkable locations in the world, on a cliff between the crystal-blue waters of Hanalei Bay and steepled mountains; you arrive on the ninth fl oor and go down to get to the beach. Opulent rooms with magnifi cent views and all the activities of Princeville and Hanalei make this one of Hawaii’s fi nest resorts. See p. 661.

THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST THE best moderately PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS W New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel (Oahu; 800/356-8264; www.kaimana. com): This is one of Waikiki’s best-kept secrets: a boutique hotel nestled right on a lovely stretch of beach at the foot of Diamond Head, with Kapiolani Park just across the street. The Waikiki-side guest rooms are teeny-tiny, with barely room for two, but they are tastefully decorated and open onto lanais with ocean and park views (plus they start at just $170 a night). A good budget buy is the park-view studio with kitchen. You can stock up with provisions from the on-site Mini-Mart. See p. 161. W Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (Oahu; 866/638-8229; www.keikibeach.com): This collection of studio and one- and two-bedroom cottages snuggled on a large lot with its own 200-foot stretch of white-sand beach between two leg- endary surf spots (Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline) has been totally renovated to the tune of $1 million. Most units are compact—the kitchens and living rooms are small and the bedrooms even smaller—but they’re afford- able, with rates starting at $135 a night. And with the ocean just outside, how much time are you going to spend inside anyway? The winter waves are

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:35 PM www. 800/833-8849; www.konatiki.com): Right on www.konatiki.com): www.holualoainn.com): The www.holualoainn.com): (Big Island; ve-bedroom house abounds with thoughtful 808/329-1425; 800/392-1812; (Big Island; (Big Island; 9 1

d d the ocean, away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Kailua-Kona, is onethe ocean, away from the hustle and bustle of decorated rooms with privateof the best budget deals in Hawaii: tastefully called Although it’s $72 a night! lanais overlooking the ocean, starting at just like a large B&B, with plentya hotel, this small, family run operation is more morning continental breakfastof friendly conversation around the pool at the buffet. See p. 316. The Waipio Wayside Bed & Breakfast Inn. Bed & Breakfast Wayside Waipio The Waipio Wayside Bed & Breakfast Inn Breakfast Bed & Wayside Waipio too rough for most swimmers, but there’s a large lava reef nearby with tide a large lava reef nearby with too rough for most swimmers, but there’s Cove, a relatively protected pools to explore and, on the other side, Shark’s All units have a jogging path. snorkeling area. Nearby are tennis courts and p. 168. full kitchens and their own barbecue areas. See Hotel Tiki Kona Holualoa Inn waipiowayside.com): Jackie Horne renovated this 1938 Hamakua Sugar su- fruit trees and surrounded by sweet-smelling home—nestled among pervisor’s it fragile orchids, and blooming birds-of-paradise—and transformed ginger, Lookout and the Valley into a gracious B&B. Just minutes from the Waipio village of Honokaa, this comfy ﬁ touches, such as a help-yourself tea-and-cookies bar with 26 different kinds and excellent continental breakfasts really friendly hospitality of tea. Jackie’s round out the experience. Rooms start at $99 for two. See p. 328. the morning brew. See p. 317. the morning brew. quiet, secluded setting of this B&B—on 30 pastoral acres just off thequiet, secluded setting of this B&B—on feet above Kailua-Kona— main drag of the artsy village of Holualoa, 1,350 coast. This contemporaryprovides stunning panoramic views of the entire golden woods has six private7,000-square-foot Hawaiian home built of that roll back to embrace thesuites (starting at $260) and window-walls pastures below the gardengardens and views. Cows graze on the bucolic the property is the source ofJacuzzi and pool, and the coffee plantation on n i

. 1 W W W 0 h c - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 19 1 W Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono (Maui; 800/305-4899; www.mauiinn.com): This 1924 former plantation manager’s home, lovingly restored, provides a genuine old Hawaii experience. The theme is Hawaii of the 1920s and 1930s, with decor, design, and landscaping to match. The spacious rooms are gor- geously outfi tted with exotic ohia-wood fl oors, high ceilings, and traditional Hawaiian quilts. A full gourmet breakfast is served on the enclosed back lanai or, if you prefer, delivered to your room. The inn is located in the old historic area of Wailuku, about 10 to 15 minutes to the beach. Once you settle in, you may not want to leave—and with rooms starting at $150 for a double, you can afford to stay awhile. See p. 442. W Pineapple Inn Maui (Maui; 877/212-MAUI [6284]; www.pineappleinn maui.com): This charming inn (only four rooms, plus a cottage) is not only an exquisite fi nd, but also a terrifi c value. Located in the residential Maui Meadows area, with panoramic ocean views, this two-story inn is expertly landscaped, with a lily pond in the front and a giant saltwater pool and Jacuzzi overlooking the ocean. Each of the soundproof rooms is expertly outfi tted with a small kitchenette, a comfy bed, free wireless Internet access, TV/VCR, and an incredible view off your own private lanai. Prices start at $139. If you The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations Priced Moderately Best The

need more room, there’s also a darling two-bedroom, one-bathroom cottage.

See p. 462. W Aloha Beach House (Molokai; 888/828-1008 or 808/828-1100; www. molokaivacation.com): Book this place! Here is the Hawaii of your dreams. This Hawaiian-style beach house sits right on the white-sand beach of Waialua on the lush East End. Perfect for families or two couples, this two-bedroom, 1,600-square-foot beach house has a huge open living/dining/kitchen area that opens out to an old-fashioned porch for meals or just sitting in the comfy chairs and watching the clouds roll by. Plus, it’s close to Mana’e Goods and Grindz, the East End’s only take-out deli. See p. 582. THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST W Dunbar Beachfront Cottages (Molokai; 800/673-0520; www.molokai- beachfront-cottages.com): Each of these green-and-white plantation-style cottages sits on its own secluded beach—you’ll feel like you’re on your own private island. Impeccable decor, a magical setting, and reasonable rates ($170 for two) make these cottages a must-stay. See p. 583. W Hotel Lanai (Lanai; 800/795-7211; www.hotellanai.com): Lanai’s only budget lodging is a simple, down-home, plantation-era relic that has recently been Laura Ashley–ized. The Hotel Lanai is homey, funky, and fun—and, best of all, a real bargain (starting at $159 for two), compared to its ritzy neighbors. See p. 617. W Kauai Country Inn (Kauai; 808/821-0207; www.kauaicountryinn.com): This old-fashioned country inn, nestled in the rolling hills behind Kapaa, seems too good to be true. Each of the four suites (starting at just $129) are uniquely decorated in Hawaiian Art Deco, complete with hardwood ﬂ oors, private bathroom, kitchen or kitchenette, your own computer with high-speed Internet connection, and lots of little extra amenities. Everything is top-drawer, from the furniture to the Sub-Zero refrigerator. The owners recently added a two-bedroom country cottage for families with young children. The grounds

004_497654-ch01.indd4_497654-ch01.indd 2020 111/20/091/20/09 2:34:352:34:35 PMPM THE BEST OF HAWAII The Best Places to Stay with the Kids 21 1 12/8/09 4:33:46 PM12/8/09 4:33:46 PM 800/626- 800/HILTONS 800/HILTONS www.hanaleisurf- (Oahu; (Oahu; 808/826-9825; TO STAY TO STAY One of the many activities for kids at the JW Marriott activities for One of the many & Spa. Ihilani Resort (Kauai;

ying and (Big Island; www.kona www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com): Camp Penguin, a year-round a year-round Camp Penguin, www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com): ; best places best www.ihilani.com): This resort on Oahu’s virgin leeward coast is a haven virgin leeward coast is a This resort on Oahu’s www.ihilani.com): 800/367-5290; tive decor choices: One of them sports a whimsical cowgirl theme, while the of them sports a whimsical cowgirl theme, tive decor choices: One to stay here (besides with Elvis memorabilia. But the best reason lled other is fi is beach and the 10-min. walk to downtown Hanalei) the 2-min. walk to the howling about the record industry will keep you Simon himself: His stories See p. 664 with laughter for hours. boardhouse.com): Book well in advance—this place is so fabulous, it will go well in advance—this place is so fabulous, boardhouse.com): Book unitsthe beach, these two incredibly decorated studio fast! Just a block from executive a former record-company Simon Potts, are a steal at $175. Host with imagina- lled his two studios (with kitchenettes) from England, has fi Kona Village Resort Village Kona Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa Beach Resort Village Hawaiian Hilton Olina Resort & Spa at Ko JW Marriott Ihilani Resort are immaculate, and you can pick as much organic fruit as you want. See as much organic fruit and you can pick are immaculate, p. 659. House Hanalei Surf Board village.com): This is a parent’s village.com): This is a parent’s dream: custom-designed programs to entertain your kids, from tots to teenagers, from dawn to well after dusk, all at no charge. There’s even a dinner seating for children, so Mom and Dad can enjoy an intimate dinner for two later in the evening. See p. 312. [445-8667] to 12, offers a wide range of edu- daily program of activities for children ages 5 telling to crafts) and excur- cational and fun activities (from Hawaiian story half-day (noAquarium, and so on) for $65 per sions (Honolulu Zoo, Waikiki including lunch. Everythingexcursions) to $90 for a full day with excursions, from the wildlife parading about the grounds about this hotel is kid-friendly, See p. 145. to the submarine dives offered just out front. 4446; ages. The Keiki Beachcomberof relaxation and tropical fun for travelers of all Club, for children ages 5 to 12, Activities (9am– is available daily. 3pm) range from kite fl tide-pool exploration to snorkeling and Hawaiian cultural activities. The cost ranges from $42 per child for a half-day with lunch to $60 for See p. 169. full day.

W W W W THE WITH THE KIDS 04_497654-ch01.indd 2104_497654-ch01.indd 21 1 W The Fairmont Orchid Hawaii (Big Island; 800/845-9905; www.fairmont. com/orchid): The Keiki Aloha program, for kids 5 to 12 years old, features supervised activities from watersports to Hawaiian cultural games for $65 half-day and $85 for a full day. The resort has some great money-saving deals, too; for example, children 5 and under eat free at various restaurants on the property. See p. 324. W Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa (Maui; 800/233-1234; www.maui. hyatt.com): The Camp Hyatt program, for kids 5 to 12 years old, operates

The Best Resort Spas Resort Best The daily from 9am to 3pm and offers young guests a range of activities, from

“Olympic Games” to a scavenger hunt. The cost starts at $40 for a half-day

and goes up to $70 for a full day. See p. 447. W Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea (Maui; 800/334-MAUI [6284]; www.fourseasons.com/maui): The most kid-friendly hotel on Maui not only offers a complimentary kids’ program year-round and an everyday activities center (daily 9am–5pm), but also makes children feel welcome with extras such as complimentary milk and cookies on their fi rst day and children’s menus at all resort restaurants (and even from room service). See p. 465. W Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa (Kauai; 800/55-HYATT [554-9288; THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST www.kauai.hyatt.com): In addition to the Camp Hyatt program for kids 3 to 12 (costs start at $60 for a half-day with lunch or $50 without lunch, and go up to $80 for a full day), it’s the collection of swimming pools (freshwater and salt, with slides, waterfalls, and secret lagoons) that makes this oceanfront Hyatt a real kids’ paradise. Summertime features theater nights, when the whole family can enjoy a showing of one of the more than 400 movies fi lmed on Kauai. See p. 647. THE best RESORT SPAS W SpaHalekulani at the Halekulani (Oahu; 808/923-2311; www.halekulani. com): This is Waikiki’s fi rst spa to explore the healing traditions of the Pacifi c islands, including Hawaii. Like everything else at the top-rated Halekulani hotel, it’s truly a heavenly experience, from the time you step into the elegantly appointed, intimate spa and experience the foot massage, to the last whiff of fragrant maile, the signature scent. Spa connoisseurs should try something unique, like the Polynesian Nonu, a Samoan-inspired massage using stones. See p. 149. W Spa Suites at the Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu; 808/739-8938; www. kahalaresort.com): The Kahala has taken the concept of spa as a journey into relaxation to a new level, with former garden rooms converted into individual spas, each with a glass-enclosed shower, private changing area, infi nity-edge soaking Jacuzzi tub, and personal relaxation area. No detail is overlooked, from the warm foot bath when you arrive to the refreshing hot tea served on your personal enclosed garden lanai after your treatment. See p. 165. W Spa Luana at Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; 808/447-6868; www.turtle bayresort.com): This Zen-like spa, positioned on the ground fl oor facing the ocean, has six treatment rooms, a meditation waiting area, an outdoor workout

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 nd a 111/20/09 2:34:37 PM tness facili- (Big Island; readers voted 808/661-1234; 808/679-0079; tness centers, plus a www.fourseasons.com/ (Oahu; (Maui;

nition of “health by water.” The nition of “health by water.” Condé Nast Traveler oor-to-ceiling glass looking out on oor-to-ceiling 808/325-8000; lled with ﬂ on the center and a private elevator to the rooms tness (Big Island; www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com): The Big Island’s oldest The Big Island’s www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com): oor, reserved for guests getting spa treatments. See p. 167. reserved for guests getting spa oor, 3 2

d 808/886-2828; tness center, tennis courts, and a bevy of aerobic and stretching classes. See tennis courts, and a bevy of aerobic and stretching tness center, d Spa Moana at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort Regency Spa Moana at the Hyatt Spa Kea Lani at the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui. Kea Lani at the Fairmont Spa Kea area, plus a complete fi second fl Ihilani Spa at the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort Hualalai at Seasons Resort Hualalai Sports Club & Spa at the Four Kaupulehu Historic Village Waikoloa & Spa at the Hilton Sports Club Kohala hualalai): It’s easy to see why some 6,000 hualalai): It’s resort spa. Five of its 16 treat- this 13,000-square-foot facility their favorite privacy screens) nestled into ament rooms are thatched huts (with bamboo be pampered. The fi tropical garden. This is the place to come to but the attentive serviceties, classes, and adventure activities are all excellent, long after your vacation.and dreamy spa facilities are what you will remember See p. 311. www.maui.hyatt.com): You cannot match the location: This is Hawaii’s only cannot match the location: This is Hawaii’s You www.maui.hyatt.com): oceanfront spa. The 20,000-square-foot spa houses 15 relaxing treatment best full-service fi rooms and features one of the island’s suites, a salon and retail shop, and relaxation lounge, two romantic couples’ new treatments for kids and teenagers. See p. 447. www.ihilani.com): An oasis by the sea, this free-standing 35,000-square-footAn oasis by the sea, this free-standing www.ihilani.com): facility is dedicated to the traditional spa defi modern, multistoried spa, fi with traditional therapiesgreen tropical plants, combines Hawaiian products also fi You’ll in the state. to produce some of the best water treatments fi p. 169. 50 classes, and a variety of sports ranging from racquetball to indoor rock50 classes, and a variety of sports ranging from edge and include such unique ther- are on the cutting climbing. Treatments readings. Spend the day lux- apies as acupuncture facials and astrological uriating in the lava whirlpool, steam room, and sauna before or after your treatment. See p. 325. (since 1989) spa has something for everyone, including 33 treatment rooms,(since 1989) spa has something for everyone, n i

. 1 W W W W 0 h c - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 23 1 W Spa Kea Lani at the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui (Maui; 808/875-2229; www.fairmont.com/kealani): Come to this intimate Art Deco boutique spa (just a little over 5,000 sq. ft., with nine treatment rooms) for personal and private attention. The ﬁ tness center is just next door. See p. 464. W The Spa at Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea (Maui; 808/874-8000; www.fourseasons.com/maui): This oasis in the luxurious Four Seasons offers a menu of pampering—from traditional Hawaiian massage to ayurvedic, plus Vichy shower treatments, body wraps, body scrubs, facials, even ocean

The Best Resort Spas Resort Best The aquacranial massage for the ultimate in relaxation. You don’t just get a mas-

sage here; you can choose from a list of therapies: hot stone, reiki, jin shin do,

Swedish, aromatherapy, shiatsu, reﬂ exology, and Thai. See p. 465.

pampering IN PARADISE

Hawaii’s spas have raised the art of relaxation and healing to a new level. The traditional Greco-Roman-style spas have evolved into airy, open facilities that embrace the tropics. Spa-goers in Hawaii want to hear the sound of the ocean, smell the salt

THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. They want to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments they can get only here.

Today’s spas off er a wide diversity of of alternative healthcare like acupunc- treatments. Massage options include ture and chiropractic, and more exotic Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aro- treatments like ayurvedic and siddha matherapy, craniosacral (massaging the from India or reiki from Japan. Some use head), shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb cutting-edge treatments, like the Grand pressure on acupuncture points), Thai Wailea Resort’s full-spectrum color-light (another oilless massage involving therapy pod (based on NASA’s work stretching), and hot stone. There are with astronauts). even side-by-side massages for couples, Spas also have a range of ﬁ tness and duo massages—two massage thera- facilities (weights, racquetball, tennis, pists working on you at once. golf) and classes (yoga, aerobics, spin- Body treatments, for the entire ning, tai chi, kickboxing). Several even body or just the face, involve a variety off er adventure ﬁ tness packages (from of herbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using bicycling to snorkeling). For the less a range of ingredients from seaweed to active, most spas also have salons dedi- salt to mud, with or without accompa- cated to hair and nail care. nying aromatherapy. Of course, all this pampering doesn’t After you have been rubbed and come cheap. Massages are generally scrubbed, most spas off er an array of $150 to $275 for 50 minutes and $250 water treatments—a sort of hydromas- to $295 for 80 minutes; body treat- sage in a tub with jets and an assort- ments are in the $120 to $250 range; ment of colored crystals, oils, and and alternative healthcare treatments scents. can be as high as $200 to $300. But Those are just the traditional treat- you may think it’s worth the expense to ments. Most spas also provide a range banish your tension and stress.

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:38 PM 808/875-1234; 808/742-1234; (Maui; (Kauai; tness center to a menu of

nest Eastern traditions (a fullnest Eastern traditions esh (like litchi, but more custard- the queen of fruit in Indonesia, is the sen- avored ﬂ avored oral-ﬂ DINING, HAWAII DINING, HAWAII mangosteen, The tness facilities, lava-rock showers that open to the tropical air, to the tropical air, tness facilities, lava-rock showers that open best 5 2

d d sation at the Hilo Farmers Market on the Big Island. Mangosteen’s elegant on the Big Island. Mangosteen’s Market sation at the Hilo Farmers purple skin and soft, white, fl and local products). It has everything from a top fi and local products). It p. 465. on the cutting edge of the latest trends. See classes and is constantly www.grandwailea.com): This is Hawaii’s biggest spa, at 50,000 square feet, biggest spa, is Hawaii’s This www.grandwailea.com): World The spa incorporates the best of the Old with 40 treatment rooms. mammoth Roman-style sculptures, larger-than-life (romantic ceiling murals, European tubs), the fi Greek columns, huge and bath and various exotic treatments from India), Japanese-style traditional Islands (tropical foliage, ancient Hawaiian treatments,the lure of the Hawaiian ANARA Spa at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort Kauai Hyatt ANARA Spa at the Grand Fruit: Tropical Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea Resort Hotel Hotel Resort Wailea at the Grand Spa Grande www.kauai.hyatt.com): Come here to get rid of stress and to be soothed and Come here to www.kauai.hyatt.com): An atmosphere, where the spirit of aloha reigns. pampered in a Hawaiian Approach) Age Restorative ANARA (A New spa, elegant 25,000-square-foot rooms,culture and healing, with some 16 treatment focuses on Hawaiian a lap pool, fi steam rooms, Finnish Turkish outdoor whirlpools, a 24-head Swiss shower, renovations make this spa evensaunas, and botanical soaking tubs. Recent massage (two therapists at once) more serene and relaxing. The four-handed is not be missed. See p. 647. like) make this fruit a sure winner. n i

. 1 W W W 0 h c Hawaiian tropical fruit. tropical Hawaiian THE STYLE - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 25 1 The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring and summer. Hayden mangoes are universally loved for their plump, juicy fl esh and brilliant skins. White Pirie mangoes, with their resinous fl avor and fi ne, fi berless fl esh, are even better; this rare and ambrosial variety can be found in Honolulu’s Chinatown or at roadside fruit stands in rural Oahu. Watch for the Rapoza mango, a new large, sweet, fi berless fruit introduced to Hawaii several years ago. Kahuku papayas—fi rm, fl eshy, dark orange, and so juicy they some- times squirt—are the ones to watch for on menus and in markets; check out the roadside stands in Kahuku on Oahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrise papayas from Kapoho and Kauai are also top-notch. White, acid-free, extra-sweet, and grown on Kauai and the Big Island, The Best Dining, Hawaii Style Dining, Hawaii Best The Sugarloaf pineapples are the new rage. Hilo is the town for litchis (also known as lychees) in summer, but Honolulu’s Chinatown markets carry them,

too. Ka’u oranges, grown in the volcanic soil of the southern Big Island, are available in supermarkets and health-food stores. Don’t be fooled by their brown, ugly skin—they’re juicy, thin-skinned, and sweet as honey. W Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, pho, pasta, chow mein—Hawaii is the epicenter of ethnic noodle stands and houses, with many recommendable and inexpensive choices. Jimbo’s Restaurant (Oahu; 808/947-2211), a neighborhood staple, is tops for freshly made udon with generous toppings and a homemade broth (p. 192). On the neighbor islands, Nori’s Saimin THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST & Snacks (Big Island; 808/935-9133) is the place in charming Hilo for consummate saimin of every stripe (p. 354). And noodle-mania prevails at Hamura’s Saimin Stand (Kauai; 808/245-3271), where saimin and teriyaki sticks have replaced ham- burgers and pizza as the late-night comfort-food tradition (p. 668). W Plate Lunches: Zippy’s (21 locations throughout Oahu; call 808/973-0880 for the one near- est you) is a household word in Hawaii. Other favorite plate-lunch spots on Oahu include Kakaako Kitchen (808/596-7488; p. 290), which serves dinner at indoor and outdoor tables at the Ward Centre; I Country Café (808/596-8108; p. 183), at Ala Moana Plaza; and Yama’s Fish Market (808/941-9994; p. 284), where the chocolate/ macadamia-nut cookies and chocolate biscotti have legions of fans. On Maui, Pauwela Cafe ( 808/575-9242; p. 501) serves gourmet feasts from a tiny kitchen, Shave ice.

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 Bong 111/20/09 2:34:39 PM p. 293) Holualoa available at Big Island 808/245-9918; Rooster Farms Taro Ko Chips Taro ( www.alanwongs.com): www.alanwongs.com): www.chefmavro.com): www.chefmavro.com): 808/ 637-4827; ( Poi Company, Poi 808/328-8356); and Fish Express Fish ne dining. He brought his award- ( oor, open-sided room, with views of oor, 808/742-6199; p. 666) are at the top of808/742-6199; p. 666) 808/949-2526; 808/944-4714; ( uences with fresh Island ingredients. It’s uences with fresh Island ingredients. It’s www.halekulani.com): This romantic, el- www.halekulani.com): sh and kalua pig; and ginger-crusted fresh sh and kalua pig; and ginger-crusted Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company 800/ 334-0348). See “Kona Coffee Craze!” 800/ 334-0348). See “Kona Coffee Craze!” 808/661-3322; p. 484) lets you nosh on fabu- p. 484) lets you nosh 808/661-3322; ne dining. Michelin award–winning chef Yves award–winning chef ne dining. Michelin See p. 190. xe ($65–$150) menus. ( (Oahu; ( (Oahu; Matsumoto Shave Ice Matsumoto Shave Poi biscotti from the biscotti Poi 808/935-8890; p. 422) are worth every calorie and 808/935-8890; p. 422) are worth every calorie RESTAURANTS ng, shave ice is synonymous with Haleiwa, the Northng, shave ice Langenstein Farms 808/822-4581; p. 666), 808/822-4581; p. 666), 808/923-2311; ( nd. 808/328-9289); Koloa Fish Market Koloa Fish 808/335-5586; p. 727) makes taro chips that neighbor islanders 808/335-5586; p. 727) makes taro chips that Like surﬁ ( (Big Island; ( (Oahu; best 7 Aloha Mixed Plate Aloha Mixed 2

808/328-9173), which sells and ships only organic coffees; sells and ships only organic coffees; 808/328-9173), which 808/322-1700); d d Shore Oahu town where Shore Oahu town where serves mounds of the icy treat. Shave ice is even better over ice cream andicy treat. Shave ice is even better over ice cream serves mounds of the adzuki beans. p. 667), and supermarkets and gourmet outlets, is the consummate accompaniment to outlets, is the consummate accompaniment supermarkets and gourmet es- Kona coffee. Coffee growers of highest another island phenomenon, Big Island, of course), include: teem (all based on the ( ( egant dining room at Waikiki’s Halekulani is the only AAA Five Diamond Halekulani is the only egant dining room at Waikiki’s restaurant in the state. The second-fl rustling the nearby coconutDiamond Head and the sound of trade winds fronds, is the epitome of fi infl Garnier melds classical French jackets (they have a selection ifpricey but worth it. Men are required to wear pack one). See p. 170. you didn’t Alan Wong’s Restaurant Alan Wong’s Other Mighty Morsels: La Mer Restaurant Chef Mavro and Ice: Shave Kona Coffee Company drive miles to fi (p. 343) for details. Candies the plate-lunch pyramid. Brothers Factory Factory every dollar. From Kauai, Hanapepe town’s venerable Kauai, Hanapepe town’s From every dollar. lous shoyu chicken at ocean’s edge—and with a mai tai, too. On Kauai, with a mai tai, edge—and chicken at ocean’s lous shoyu Market Pono Master strokes at this shrine of Hawaii Regional Cuisine include warm California rolls made with salmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobster instead of rice; luau lumpia with butterfi Honolulu is abuzz over the wine pairings and elegant cuisine of GeorgeHonolulu is abuzz over the wine pairings from Award–winner Beard Mavrothalassitis, the culinary wizard and James and Seasons (at the Four Provence who turned La Mer (at the Halekulani) into temples of fi Seasons Resort Wailea) winning signature dishes with him and continues to prove his ingenuity with dazzling a la carte and prix-fi n i

. 1 W W W W W chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies of The buttery, 0 h c THE - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 27 1 onaga. Opihi shooters and day-boat scallops in season are a must, and grilled lamb chops are a perennial special. The menu changes daily, but the fl avors never lose their sizzle. See p. 190. W 3660 on the Rise (Oahu; 808/737-1177; www.3660.com): Ever since Wine Spectator gave this restaurant its Award of Excellence, this place has been packed, and with good reason. In his 200-seat restaurant, chef Russell Siu adds an Asian or local touch to the basics: rack of lamb with macadamia nuts, fi let of catfi sh in ponzu sauce, and seared ahi salad with grilled shiitake

The Best Restaurants Best The mushrooms, a local favorite. See p. 193. W Hoku’s (Oahu; 808/739-8780; www.kahalaresort.com/dining/hoku.

cfm): Elegant without being stuffy, creative without being overwrought, the kitchen at the Kahala Hotel & Resort creates fusion cuisine that really works— European fi nesse with an Island touch. The ocean view, open kitchen, and astonishing bamboo fl oor are stellar features. Refl ecting the restaurant’s cross-cultural infl uences, the kitchen is equipped with a kiawe grill, an Indian tandoori oven, and Szechuan woks. The Sunday brunch is one of the best on Oahu. See p. 195. W Roy’s Restaurant (Oahu; 808/396-7697; www.roysrestaurant.com): THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST Good food still reigns at this busy, noisy fl agship dining room in Hawaii Kai with its trademark open kitchen. Roy Yamaguchi’s deft way with local ingredients, nostalgic ethnic preparations, and fresh fi sh makes his menu, which changes daily, a novel experience every time. See p. 195. W Merriman’s (Big Island; 808/885-6822; www.merrimanshawaii.com): Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, dis- plays his creativity at this Waimea eatery, a premier Hawaii attraction. Dishes include his signature wok-charred ahi, kung pao shrimp, or lamb from nearby Kahua Ranch. His famous platters of seafood and meats are among the many reasons this is still the best—and busiest—dining spot in Waimea. See p. 348. W Son’z Maui at Swan Court (Maui; 808/667-4506; www.sonzmaui.com): For 30 years, the Swan Court was the dining experience at the Hyatt Regency Maui. When Tri-Star Restaurant Group CEO Aaron Placourakis took over this restaurant, he and executive chef Geno Sarmiento knew they wanted to hit a home run every night with the cuisine. The restaurant already had perhaps the most romantic location in Maui, overlooking a man-made lagoon with white and black swans swimming by and the rolling surf of the Pacifi c in the distance. Inside, the culinary team’s creative dishes, fresh local ingredients (Kula corn and strawberries, Ono Farms avocados, Hana hearts of palm, Maui Cattle Company beef, fresh Hawaiian fi sh, and sweet Maui onions), top-notch service, and relaxing atmosphere make this one of Maui’s best restaurants. See p. 486. W Pineapple Grill (Maui; 808/669-9600; www.pineapplekapalua.com): If you had only a single night to eat on the island of Maui, this would be the place to go. In fact, if you eat here at the beginning of your Maui trip, you are defi nitely going to want to come back! Up-and-coming chef Ryan Luckey (a

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9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:39 PM elds. You’ll dine at You’ll elds. www.haliimailegeneral www.kauai.hyatt.com): If you’re look- www.kauai.hyatt.com): 808/572-2666; www.fourseasons.com/manelebay/dining): www.fourseasons.com/manelebay/dining): (Maui; at lunch, and sandwiches and salads nd lots of tasty oors under high ceilings, in a peach-colored roomoors under high ceilings, in a peach-colored 808/ 742-1234; 808/565-2296; (Kauai;

(Lanai;

Ocean. See p. 490. c 9 2

d d A number of top Hawaii chefs (such as Philippe Padovani and Edwin Goto) chefs (such as Philippe Padovani A number of top Hawaii their tenure here, but the com- have each added a bit of their own style during with Island cuisine. Themon denominator is the melding of Mediterranean top gourmet restaurant, in a formal atmosphere with inspiring result is Lanai’s overlooking the resortfood. The latest incarnation of this classy restaurant, priced moderately for theand the ocean beyond, is traditional Italian cuisine, See p. 618. Bay. Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Four ing for a romantic dinner, Dondero’s, at the Grand Hyatt Kauai, is hard to at the Grand Hyatt Dondero’s, ing for a romantic dinner, Ihilani Dondero’s local Lahaina boy) is a genius, combining Asian/Filipino ingredients into culi- ingredients Asian/Filipino boy) is a genius, combining local Lahaina fi You’ll nary masterpieces. Maui-like in the morning—all served in a very a continental-style breakfast out to the the rolling hills of the Kapalua golf course atmosphere overlooking Pacifi Store Haliimaile General is still going strong at her foodie haven in the pineapple fi is still going strong at fl tables set on old wood through roots shine Texas by local artists. Gannon’s emblazoned with works that puts an in- American with ethnic touches eclectic in her food, a blend of Regional Cuisine. See p. 497. novative spin on Hawaii store.com): Bev Gannon, one of the original Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs, one of the original Hawaii Regional Cuisine store.com): Bev Gannon, n i

. 1 W W W 0 h c Dondero’s restaurant. Dondero’s - 4 5 6 7 9 4 _ 4 004_497654-ch01.indd 29 1 beat. Dine either under the stars overlooking the ocean or tucked away at an intimate table surrounded by inlaid marble ﬂ oors, ornate imported tiles, and Franciscan murals. You get all this atmosphere plus the best Italian cuisine on the island, served with efﬁ ciency. It’s hard to have a bad experience here. Dinners are pricey but worth every penny. See p. 670. W Hanapepe Cafe & Espresso Bar (Kauai; 808/335-5011): This is one of those places that locals know about and generally visitors are not aware of. Nestled in the quaint little town on the west side of Kauai, this small, whole- some cafe boasts a casual, winning ambience and some of the most creative cuisine around. See p. 674. THE best SPOTS FOR SUNSET

The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails Spots for Best The COCKTAILS

W Sunset Lanai Lounge, at the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel (Oahu; 808/923-1555): The hau tree here shaded Robert Louis Stevenson as he wrote poems to Princess Kaiulani; today it frames the ocean view from the Sunset Lanai Lounge. This lounge is the favorite watering hole of Diamond Head–area beachgoers, who love Sans Souci Beach, the ocean view, the mai tais, and the live music during weekend sunset hours. See p. 161. W Jameson’s by the Sea (Oahu; 808/637-6272): The mai tais here are dubbed the best in surf city, and the view, though not perfect, doesn’t hurt, either. Across the street from the harbor, this open-air roadside oasis is a happy THE BEST OF HAWAII THE BEST stop for North Shore wave-watchers and sunset-savvy sightseers. See p. 198. W Mai Tai Bar, at the Royal Hawaiian (Oahu; 808/923-7311): This bar without walls is perched a few feet from the sand, with pleasing views of the south shore and the Waianae Mountains. Surfers and paddlers ride the waves while Diamond Head acquires a golden sunset halo. Sip a mighty mai tai while Carmen and Keith Haugen serenade you. See p. 152. W House Without a Key, at the Halekulani (Oahu; 808/923-2311): Oahu’s quintessential sunset oasis offers a view of Diamond Head, great hula and steel-guitar music, and the best mai tais on the island—all under a century- old kiawe tree. Even jaded locals are unable to resist the lure. See p. 149. W Duke’s Waikiki, at the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach (Oahu; 808/922- 2268): It’s crowded in the evening, but who can resist Hawaiian music with Waikiki sand still on your feet? Come in from the beach or the street—it’s always a party at Duke’s. Entertainment here is tops, reaching a crescendo at sunset. See p. 175. W Beach Tree Bar & Grill, at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island; 808/325-8000): The bar on the beach seats only a handful, but the restaurant will accept the overﬂ ow. This is the ﬁ nest sunset perch in North Kona, with consummate people-watching, tasty drinks, and the gorgeous ocean. The open-air restaurant, with Hawaiian music and hula dancing at sunset, also serves excellent fare. See p. 336.

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0 4 THE BEST OF HAWAII The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails : 31 1 4 3 : 2

9 0 / 0 2 / 1 111/20/09 2:34:40 PM ): Here’s a thatched- ): Here’s 808/329-1493 ): Sit outdoors at the Barefoot Bar, order ): Sit outdoors at the Barefoot Bar, ): An oceanfront dining room and deck,An oceanfront dining room ): (Big Island; on the rocks. This mound of thatch, rock, and grassy- on the rocks. This mound of thatch, rock, and 808/667-6636 808/661-4811 really (Maui; (Maui; 1 3

d d sandy ground right next to Huggo’s restaurant is a sunset-lover’s nirvana. Sip a restaurant is a sunset-lover’s sandy ground right next to Huggo’s nosh on Island-style appetizerstropical drink while reclining on a chaise and while the ocean laps at your feet. See p. 338. Huggo’s on the Rocks. Huggo’s on the Rocks Huggo’s Kimo’s Hula Grill drinks, nibble on macadamia-nut and crab wontons, and marvel at the won- drinks, nibble on macadamia-nut and crab wontons, looks like a giant Maui, where the sun sets slowly and Lanai ders of West simply magical. See p. 488. whale offshore. It’s bar fantasy that’s bar fantasy that’s upstairs dining, and happy-hour drinks draw a fun-loving Lahaina crowd.upstairs dining, and happy-hour drinks draw of Lanai and Molokai. SeeNibble on sashimi or nachos and take in the views p. 583. n i

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