News & Features Getting to Know the Mountain arnoski B aurie L

In July 2005, two brothers, Mike and Steve, embarked on a once-in-a-lifetime trip: completing the 93-mile around . Above: Steve at . Right: hikers near Carbon River Glacier. A Wonderland Trail Journal By “Mike in Tac” hitting the road. After a couple of stops them and shared their space for 5 or 10 for errands and phone calls, we got our minutes. They never ran off—we finally permit and arrived here. left them! Thursday, July 7, 2005, 10:22 p.m. We wandered up to Eunice Lake and Back to the tent at 7:00 p.m. and we Mowich Lake Campground, fished a bit—no views, clouds totally raided the “free pile” of food at the 5,000 feet socked us in. I had terrible luck, lost ranger cabin for dinner. Lots of cocoa Overcast, fogged in, 74 degrees in a lure (Steve’s) on the first cast. Steve too. Met Tim—another guy (with two tent, 60 degrees outside had much better luck with his $7.50 friends—Joan and Todd, I think)—who Slept in a bit and said good-bye to Jane rod and reel. On the way back, we ran will start the Wonderland tomorrow as at 8:00 a.m. Steve and I then packed for a in to a couple of one-year-old bucks—no well. They’re doing an 8-day trip. couple of hours before having lunch and fear whatsoever. We were 10 feet from A fine day—overcast with some peek-

June 2006 TRAILS Getting to Know the Mountain From there, it was a tough hike up to Klapatche Park—3 miles up, up, up. Lots of memories of getting sick there in 2004. Aurora Lake was fogged in, and after a break we moved on to St. Andrews Lake and the (ap- proximately) 6,000-foot pass. Wildflowers were incredible in these high areas! Then it was down, down, down to this camp. Got here at about 7:00 p.m. Twelve long, slow miles for us. We’ve got to get going ear- lier in the morning to avoid rushing dinner, etc. At least we’re both slow—not like one of us is faster than the other. Still, I’m glad that I’m not a “racer” like most of the other hikers we’ve met: 15 Mike on the trail above Sunrise Arm, Day 8. “The to 20 miles per day on average. Can you gal (in the couple) is wearing a bear bell. Kind of really enjoy The Mountain that way? I’d hurts our chances of seeing a bear here.” prefer to “sip” The Mountain at this pace versus “guzzling” it in a week. aboo views before the evening fog hit. hooked us up. Saw two deer at Aurora Lake, a mar- Expecting soon. Saw avalanche lilies and bear grass mot just north of the high point, and I heard from another hiker of a guy at Eunice Lake yesterday. Lots of bear some bear scat on the trail. who started the WT tonight with the grass today. Time to go to bed. I’m sitting outside intention of finishing it in 4 days. Wow. waiting for the patch on my mattress Not my cup of tea. Day 2, 9:21 p.m. to dry (thanks to my cat Max for the I do wish Jane were here. holes). South Puyallup River Camp, S’mores for dessert tonight. Thanks 4,190 feet Day 1, 9:08 p.m. Jane. Barometer 25.65, overcast, Golden Lakes, 5,000 feet 68 degrees Day 3 Barometer 24.95, 60 degrees What a turn in the weather! Got pelted It is raining like hell right now! Water Longmire Inn, 2,700 feet with rain all night last night and woke to Barometer 27.15, overcast, 71 is leaking through the tent and is drip- a sunrise at 5:30 with mostly clear skies. ping on me and this paper. It’s to the The Mountain was up close and visible degrees (room temperature) point that I won’t write much. Last night from the campsite too. What a day. A good one overall, but it things cleared up, but a light rain started I got up for good before 6:00 a.m. while didn’t start out that way! as we left Mowich Lake at 10 a.m. (got Steve returned to bed. I met three hik- We got up at 7:30 (along with everyone up at 7:30 a.m.). It was a steady, fairly ers at the cabin who’d given up on their else at camp), but it still took us three heavy rain from South Fork Mowich tarp at about 3 a.m. and just decided to hours to get going. Too much time. I’d River to Golden Lakes. Sucked, really. keep on hiking. rather kill time at a viewpoint during Rain, rain, rain, stupid rain. Hung out on Steve and I hung around Golden Lakes midday, not at my tent in the morning! the porch of the ranger cabin for three until 10:20, mostly drying out our stuff We’ll have to fix that. to four hours with other hikers. A real on a makeshift clothesline. It rained all last night and all the way nice group overall—four parties here Walked through the “burn area” with to about 4:30 p.m. today. Crazy. I had tonight (one solo, Steve and I, and two some views, and down to the North my raincoat on all day long. threesomes). Puyallup River Camp where we had a We headed up Emerald Ridge—great, Covered about 10 miles today. Got one-hour break. It was nice, 80 degrees, relatively gentle grade with killer views here at 4:30 p.m. Good dinner—Jane but then clouds came in. down to glaciers and moraines. It was

WASHINGTON TRAILS June 2006 Getting to Know the Mountain a big drop-off a few feet from the trail, 8:00 p.m. a great Mountain view, and on up the but it was way cool. I even spotted about Of course, just as we arrived, the Paradise River. On through the woods thirty mountain goats across the way clouds broke open and The Mountain to Paradise Camp with bridges under on the ridge to the north of us. Tiny came in full view! construction—and beyond to Narada dots. They were just below the cloud Falls. ceiling. Day 4, 8:35 p.m. We got to Reflection Lakes at about 2:30 p.m. and chilled out for quite a Continued in the rain around the ridge Maple Creek Camp, 2,830 feet towards the Tahoma Creek suspension while. Chatted with two college-aged bridge. Way high! It was scary, but I Barometer 27.10, partly cloudy, National Park Service volunteers—one made it across.From there we continued 69 degrees from Pennsylvania and the other from up to Indian Henry’s Hunting Grounds Probably the best hiking day yet—and Ohio. The government is lucky to have in the rain—nonstop rain. I’d hoped for we’re in bed relatively early. Woke up to them, but how long can the park last on clear skies, as I’d been here before on sunny skies at Longmire at 7:30. I’d had a the backs of free help without the op- an overcast day. Not so. rough time sleeping (sore body) and was portunity for a career? However, our fortunes changed for tired all morning. Went to the ranger sta- Headed past Louise Lake and dropped the better as we stopped at the ranger tion to make itinerary changes and pick into this canyon, Stevens Canyon, to cabin (looking for a dry porch to rest up the food cache, and then Steve and arrive at camp. Looking back to The on) and met Sheryl, a volunteer ranger. I sat down to a huge breakfast. Then we Mountain, we could see in She gave us (and three other hikers) hot sorted food, donated some to the ranger the high country at the head of Stevens tea and cocoa as well as the Mariner’s station’s “hungry hiker cache,” and I re- Creek. That would make a great bush- game on the radio. Visiting with her re- cached about 10 pounds of “stuff” that whack trip someday. I’d never seen the ally lifted my spirits.Her cabin was like I decided not to carry anymore—SLR falls before. an oasis, and the day started anew once camera, long johns, Yak Trax, etc. This campsite is great. Dry, which is we continued on our way (after visiting We didn’t get going until 11:30 a.m, but priority #1. But it also has a view to a peak for about an hour). my pack felt great. I think I’ve learned a to the south and a wide open glade below Shortly after venturing through the lesson in how to pack a bag responsibly. us. Can hear Maple Creek nearby. Only Indian Henry meadows (the brightest On the way out, we crossed paths with an one other group here. Oh yeah, they have yet), Steve and I decided to push on to old-timer and two younger guys we met urinals for both men and women. Yeah Longmire Inn rather than get soaked at Golden Lakes. They were spending the right. Where’s the nearest bush? another night. So, we plowed on another night at the Inn. I was jealous! To Indian Bar tomorrow. Will be a 7 miles (past our scheduled campsite at Steve and I moseyed along the easy, tough walk, but it should be beautiful Devil’s Dream) and arrived here after wide trail to Nisqually Crossing, with if the weather cooperates. I want to be chiefe lb ein S ave D

A hiker passes through meadows of lupine at Indian Bar. “This place is really cool.”

June 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS Getting to Know the Mountain here. Earlier, as I was glassing the val- ley I saw two bears, but they were in a chiefe lb ein

S hurry and vanished by the time I got a ave

D second look. Maybe elk, but I think bears. Nothing new since dinner. Steve and I broke camp at 8:45 a.m.—by far a record for us. Made quick time up to Box Canyon for a tap water and bathroom break. We then went through the woods at a quick but comfortable pace (for us) up to Cowlitz Ridge. From there, we lollygagged 4 miles to this camp. Despite the clouds that obscured The Mountain all day, the views were jaw-dropping— Lookout, points east, , the Tatoosh Range, Goat Rocks, Mount Adams and even Mount Hood. Not to mention lus- cious flower fields the likes of which we haven’t seen since Indian Henry’s—and this time we had sunshine to enjoy them in. Met a couple of folks who stayed here last night and said they saw two mountain lions this morning and heard one last night. Also, a lot of bear sign (scratched trees) and elk sign (poop and prints all over) and cougar poop. This place is cool.

Day 6, 7:12 p.m. Summerland Camp, 5,720 feet Barometer 24.35, clear and sunny, 77 degrees A great afternoon—finally, after six days! I’m sitting on a log by the Won- Cataract Falls, below Seattle Park. “I slowed down. My neck stopped hurting. I ate derland Trail watching the sunset over oatmeal almost every day. And the time just whizzed by. Most of the pictures we Steamboat Prow. Only a few wispy took with the throwaway cameras came out crappy, but I don’t even care.” clouds. The Mountain and Little Tahoma dominate the scene. The sun is warm on my face. on the trail by 9:30. No lollygagging in This place is really cool. We’re sitting It was a day for lollygagging. Got up camp—we do enough of that on the on a slope by our campsite, overlooking at 7 a.m. and scanned the Indian Bar trail. flower meadows and the creek. We can area—no big animals. While Steve stayed Saw tiger lilies, red columbine and see the ridge that encircles us, but the in bed I went down to the river and sat elephant’s head pedicularis today (we highest snowfields are in the clouds. on a rock. Nice. I think I was the only got a flower chart at Longmire) among The sun appears to be setting behind person in camp who was awake. others. the ridge (in clouds). We arrived here at 4:30 p.m. to find I went to take a poop, and upon my return to the tent saw that Steve had Day 5, 6:45 p.m. someone else in our campsite. They shooed off as we came along. Poaching, spotted a bear in the meadow 50 to 100 Indian Bar Camp, 5,000 feet I think. There are about a dozen goats feet below our camp. We watched “him” Barometer 25.00, mostly cloudy, across the valley—they’re high up and wander and eat flowers for 30 minutes. 73 degrees have been there as long as we’ve been And I never took a photo! (Duh!)

WASHINGTON TRAILS June 2006 Getting to Know the Mountain Weather this morning was foggy— We wanted to get to Sunrise ranger of guys blasted past us on Emerald Ridge socked in, so the trip to Panhandle Gap station with plenty of time to pick up listening to music—totally tuned out as was in clouds all the way with zero views our food cache and eat a burger at the far as I’m concerned. Different strokes to the west and a minor view of Ohana- restaurant, so we were out of camp by for different folks, I guess. pecosh Glacier on the way up. Also saw 9:00 and hustled through the woods to The White River, like Mowich, was a lone goat (about 200 feet away) and White River Campground. Still, I tried raging. We crossed it and rested at a a mom, pop, and baby marmot. Route to pay attention to the sounds and smells picnic table for a bit before heading 2,000 through the Gap was wanded in places of the woods while I moved along. That’s feet uphill to Sunrise. Ninety minutes and otherwise easy to find. two things I’ve l neglected to mention later we were getting our food cache at At the pass, skies were clear to the so far—sounds and smells. You could be the ranger station, where we met the north (except for Rainier, of course) but here with eyes closed and still feel the life Guitar-Playing Hippie again. stayed socked in to the south. around you—trees, flowers, birds, water. After that, a KIRO-7 camera crew Nice trip down to Summerland—tak- I think that is the one quality that I will doing a show about hikes in Washington ing lots of time and stopping to soak in take home with me the most. interviewed Steve and me about our views of glaciers, falls, Mount Ruth and I also forgot to mention Tim, Doobie, experiences and thoughts on the Won- . Visited with other and the Guitar-Playing Hippie. We met derland Trail. It was cool, and I hammed hikers quite a bit too. Tim the night before we left—he’s kind it up on camera for a while. I wish I’d I’ve tried to tell myself every day of this of a geek hiker who talks a lot. We were mentioned the sounds and smells of the trip to treasure each and every park though. footstep. (Just heard rockfall.) After that, we split up our I doubt I’ll ever go on another I’ve tried to tell myself every day of this food, gave a lot to the hungry trip as long or strenuous as trip to treasure each and every footstep. hiker cache and had some this one—not with a family to burgers and soda. Yummy! I tend to. If hiking is my hobby, I doubt I’ll ever go on another trip as also called Rob and Jane and then this is my Honus Wagner long or strenuous as this one—not with chatted with them. rookie card. Steve and I will spend one Enjoy it, love it, and remem- a family to tend to. If hiking is my more night on the trail and ber it. Sure, I may do it again. head out to Mowich in a 13-mile But you never know. I seriously hobby, then this is my Honus Wagner final day. doubt Steve and I will spend rookie card. Treasure every footstep and time like this together again. breath here. Remember this is Not because we don’t want to, for the rest of your life. but because “that’s life.” along the trail with him and his two buds And, come again. Tomorrow is a speed trip—down for the first four days. No idea if they to the White River and up to Sunrise continued past Longmire as planned. Day 8, 7:01 p.m. before the Ranger Station closes so we Doobie is a guy we met at Panhandle Mystic Lake Camp, can get our food! Gap. He was out for the day, climbing Looks like we might walk out on Day here and there. Talked a lot about his 5,500 feet 9 (instead of 10)—do one 13-mile day climbs. I thought he was a stoner (hence Barometer 24.45, cloudy skies, instead of two 6.5-mile days. Especially the name)—Steve liked him. He took 65 degrees if the weather sucks. our photo at Panhandle Gap for us. The We slept in a bit, as the trip here was Late Note: we saw three deer (no Guitar-Playing Hippie is a hiker from supposed to be about 10 miles. A blacktail bucks) in the meadow before bed last Evergreen who passed us on Day 3 (his doe just walked into camp and ate Steve’s night. Day 1) at Devil’s Dream. He has a pack- urine spot about 40 feet away. able guitar. We met up with him again We left camp at 10:00 and made our Day 7, 7:14 p.m. today at the Sunrise ranger station, and way through overused meadows and Sunrise Walk-In Camp, 6,250 feet he’s here in camp playing his guitar and up the rocky trail to Skyscraper Pass singing. Seems like a nice kid. at about 6,700 feet. There our view of Barometer 23.95, clear skies, We’ve met a lot of nice folks on the The Mountain clouded up, but we could 81 degrees trail—most strike me as Seattle-type still see Grand Park (neat) and Mount Best weather day of the trip so far— lefties, but nice folks. Even a couple of Stuart and Glacier Peak. Snacked with a sunny, hot and summer! Great views at (preppy) folks who went to Middlebury couple of friendly day hikers who sang a Summerland—even saw nine climbers College in Vermont (Steve and I are both prayer before lunch and gave us Famous on The Mountain. Looking north we saw born-and-bred Vermonters). A few folks Amos cookies. four elk on Goat Island Mountain. have been less than social, and a couple It was then a long trip down to the

June 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS Wilderness permits, climbing permits, and park information Getting to Know the Mountain are available at the Wilkeson Ranger Station. Seattle, Enumclaw Wilderness Trip Planner Map Carbon River Road may be closed due to flooding. Call the park for current conditions.

LAKE WILDERNESS TRAILSIDE CAMP C ervice CARBON H ELEANOR Eastside wilderness and climbing permits S C E FRONTCOUNTRY CAMPGROUND RIVER ENTRANCE a N Wilkeson 2.0 r U are available at the White River Wilderness b I 410 ark . o S Oliver k n e Information Center in summer. In winter, WILDERNESS PATROL CABIN

M P C r Lake e O S Green R U r permits are available at the USFS/NPS office Lake i v N Chenuis C N FRONTCOUNTRY RANGER STATION Ipsut Creek e r T 3.3 I in Enumclaw or by self-registration at the park's A I N Lakes y r Campground Wilderness permits, climbing permits, and park information A e Lake Ethel r g r T north entrance (SR 410 at Crystal MountainBlvd). 4.2 FIRE CREEK e FIRE LOOKOUT A L K I C R E S n K l ationa a are available at the Wilkeson Rangerb Station. N R e Seattle, R N 2.0 l U TheLake James 1.8 WonderlandA k Trail SHELTER Enumclaw Wilderness Trip Planner Map Carbon River Road may be closedP duec to flooding. Call the park for currentO conditions. C YELLOWSTONE k u R 2.7 5.2 M e CLIFFS D H REDSTONE e Y LOOKOUT N r SURFACED ROADWAY T 4.0 S .9 2.4 CAMP A C 1.1 T Eunice R e A Lake Crescent G UPPER s UNSURFACED ROADWAY

Lake r i 1.8 L CARBON PALISADES r WILDERNESS TRAILSIDE CAMP e LAKE N 2.8 n I RIVER v u E i A C .75 LAKE S M PARK BOUNDARY ULY T G ELEANOR Y J 1.1 CARBONR H 1.6 N Hidden D O Eastside wilderness and climbing permits RL 1.6 C E DICK'S I A U Elysian Fields e Lake FRONTCOUNTRY CAMPGROUND E Mowich O V E RIVERR N A L tENTRANCEMT. FREMONT a NLAKE R U TRAILS S Wilkeson i 2.0

Lake M CATARACT r U N are available at the White River Wilderness N h LOOKOUT b E E R P A R K W I P VALLEY DICK CREEK o H S S T 410

O Mowich Lake E BERKELEY FOREST. I Oliver WONDERLAND TRAILk k N I A D Campground H r n G R e Information Center in summer. In winter, WILDERNESS PATROL CABIN o PARK C r M A T F LAKE U N Lake e Wilkeson O Clover O S O t O U STREAMS LAKES r GLACIERS R M R Lake permits are available at the USFS/NPS office s Green D SU e i 3.0 C N 165 3.8 W Lake R v N FRONTCOUNTRY RANGER STATION 1.6 e Chenuis I 1.2 1.3 Ipsut Creek U r 3.3 T 3.7 TRAIL DISTANCES IN MILES (APPROX.) in Enumclaw or by self-registration at the park's O Sunrise A I N Lakes y 3.3 r CampgroundS 2.4 A 3.0 3.4 4.7 e Lake Lake Ethel r 5.5 g .8 SUNRISE 2.5 r T north entrance (SR 410 at Crystal MountainBlvd). FIRE LOOKOUT .7 .4 4.2 FIRE CREEK e SOUTH 1.8 S P R A Y A L K I C R E S n LOWER K a 1.1 b N GRANITE CRYSTAL LAKE R e MOWICH R NE l P A R K .7 .5 2.0 JU U CREEK T N E A k RIVER M AT WHITE RIVER .6 Lake James 1.8 SHELTER EAGLE'S S RO PENS L P c O C H 1.4 AD O YELLOWSTONE k ROOST G 2.1 ENTRANCE 0 1 2 u 3 4 5 MYSTIC U M R C O 2.7 UPPER 5.2 e SUNRISE D H CAMP R TOLMIE PEAK CLIFFS e Y a R REDSTONE U CAMP CRYSTAL LAKE N r SURFACED ROADWAY r B 2.4 LOOKOUT e r T 4.0 i v C S b R 2.4 CAMP A MILES R u s s e l l White River .9 1.1 o Eunice2.4 t e T G l a c i e r Campground i R n r h S k e Lako r e W Crescent A e UNSURFACED ROADWAY o F G UPPER s G r u i e i 6.8 GLACIER t Lake r I n 1.8 1.5 CARBON L t c r l PALISADES h e a BASIN N n a .6 2.8 I v u M c l RIVER WILDERNESS TRAILSIDE CAMPS E Yakima i LAKE S M o i A .75 PARK BOUNDARY G Y w e UL GOAT ISLAND T G J . 1.1 R i r Y c N o r p L 1.6 N 1.6 Hidden D O h t h M C r Most backpackers at Mount Rainier National Park use the DICK'S o o R I

G w A MOUNTAIN U Elysian Fields e Lake R i U l a c r Mowich 3.0 trailside camps listed below. Individual sites have a capacity TRAILS i c i h E O 410 V E R N A L t MT. FREMONT LAKE R v e h i e r S n of five people, or one immediate family, and group sites

r t Lake M CATARACT N N a h LOOKOUT GOLDEN n E p have a capacity of twelve people. E i CAMP R Chinook Pass P A R K W

P g VALLEY DICK CREEKTipsoo H S T LAKES Mowich Lake E n BERKELEY WONDERLAND TRAIL

W OCURTIS i TAMANOS Lake allocated on a first-come,FOREST first served basis on the I 4.2 y k Camping by permit is also allowed in undesignated sites G N I A D e r Campground H r r first day of your trip. Sites may fill early on Friday R CAMP c i T F CREEK o PARK within crosscountry and alpine zones throughout the park. U A l a F and Saturday. LAKE N SUNSET WilkesonSCHURMANO G O Clover s 1.4 t O U STREAMS LAKES GLACIERS PARK R o n M s Lake S. Liberty Cap m SUMMERLAND e D S M o 165 m Indiv. Group Elev. 3.0 w i E 3.8 W 1.6 Sites Sites Feet R c h 1.2Camp 1.3 U G . P 3.7 TRAIL DISTANCES IN MILES (APPROX.) l a 4.8 Berkeley Park 1 5375 O C r a 2 Sunrise 5.0 c i Columbia Crest F r y i n g p a n c 3.3 S 2.4 e r 4.7 2.9 i Camp Curtis 2 - 8685 Lake 3.0 3.4 f G l a c i e r 5.5 i Camp Muir .8 11SUNRISE0* - 10080 2.5 a c i e r c .7 .4 G l 1.8 OHANAPECOSHS P R A Y k Camp Schurman 3485* - 9440 LOWER NORTH PUYALLUP u p SOUTH o 1.1 l Point Success o a l I Carbon River 4 1 3195 RIVER y n PARK n GRANITE CRYSTAL LAKE P u MOWICHg r i Cataract Valley 6 1 4620 NE P A R K h U 2.7 e r a CREEK .7 .5 J i C h C DeerT N Creek 2 - 2950 E c o RIVERa 4.5 T WHITE RIVER .6 2.8 a w EAGLE'S M A KLAPATCHE l l m DEER S Devil's Dream 7 1 5060 R ENS L G i H 1.4 OAD OP PARK r t CREEK G Dick Creek 2 2.1 - 4185 ENTRANCE 0 1 2 3 4 5 a e z ROOST MYSTICD e e r U S 2.5 m i t. o G C k C r e s t O Dick's LakeSUNRISE 1 - 5675 UPPER A r. c N CAMP O e R n d w s C h l h CAMP C r e r e a a INDIAN a a R Eagle's Roost 7 - 4885 l i MUIR a n CAMP CRYSTAL LAKE M T s a U c p r r G u BAR B 2.4 Fire Creek 3 1 4300 e q e i i G l a c i e r c i v r e r b 3.7 a u o Forest Lake 1 - 5660 R MILES S s R u s s e l l White River m a h o 2.4 n SHRINER PEAK e o Glacier Basin 5 1 5965 t l o i G l a c i e r n Campground h l w LOOKOUT r h S k f i e l d Golden Lakes 5 1 5130 a y o r W T o SHRINER e F 3.7 G Graniter Creek 2 -1 5765 . G u i t e SOUTH PUYALLUP S 6.8 R i v e r PEAK GLACIER I n Indian Bar 3 1 5120 1.5 c l t l

RIVER a h a BASIN a .6 Klapatche Park 4 - 5515 G E r e i c 11.5 D UMP M l R I c Lake Eleanor 3 1 5000 Yakima WILDERNESS TRAILSIDE CAMPS 1.6 TR i D o G T r a i l Lake George 5 1 4320 L ARK 4.6 e GOAT ISLAND P w A AN . R C O Lower Crystal Lake 2 - 5450 GOBBLERS E V i r .6 M c N o r 4.2 p KNOB E 1.4 h t h M 6.7 Maple Creek 4 1 2815 C r Most backpackers at Mount Rainier National Park use the LOOKOUT o w o MOUNTAIN W L I P a n t h Mystic Camp 7 1 5570 R G l i c e r r 3.0 trailside camps listed below. Individual sites have a capacity .9 i a c i h v e h Nickel Creek 3 1 3385 410 e r n PARADISE r t N. Puyallup River 3 1 3750 of five people, or one immediate family, and group sites Comet Falls C r e e k a 1.5 n INDIAN GOLDEN T Z Olallie Creek 2 1 3940 p have a capacity of twelve people. 4.5 i CAMP g Tipsoo Chinook Pass HENRY'S 1.6 Paradise River 3 1 3805 1.0 LAKES CURTIS n Lake allocated on a first-come, first served basis on the Westside Road closed to W i TAMANOS PYRAMID M r Pyramid Creek 2 -4.2 3765 y Camping by permit is also allowed in undesignated sites LAKE vehicle traffic. Open for u 1.4 e r first day of your trip. Sites may fill early on Friday hiking, horses, and bicycling. 2.0 CREEK d CAMP i Redstone Camp 2 1 4620 CREEK d c F Cayuse Pass within crosscountry and alpine zones throughout the park. GEORGE DEVIL'S SUNSET y NICKEL l a Shriner Peak 2 - 5355 and Saturday. F CREEK SCHURMAN G Lake - 4690 1.4 o 2 M DREAM s r 1.8 4 Cougar Rock Reflection PARK k OLALLIE n South 1 2605 O 1.6 THREE o SUMMERLAND Campground Lakes S. M CREEK Liberty Cap m South Puyallup River 4 1 4000 Group Elev. U S t e 1.2 o LAKESm Indiv. 2.0 v e n Box w 2.8 E Summerland 5 1 5940 N 5.7 s Canyon i c D I STEVENS CANYON Camp Sites Sites Feet k R I D G E h

T Sunrise 8 2 6245 e G ENTRANCE . 3.5 P e T 4.1

1.3 V I D E l Tamanos Creek 4 1 5270 4.8 W a r k PARADISE 1.6 C r e e k Berkeley Park 1 5375 R C r a 2 e c eColumbiar 5.8 Crest C A 5.0 w a t F r y i nThree g p Laka nes (H) 2 1 4680 c

O O e RIVER SNOW i g P 1.4 n r e r i C i

LAKE h r e Upper Crystal Lake 2 - 5825 2.9 Camp Curtis 2 - 8685 W M g f C 2.4 e k a EAGLE u G l a c i e r i A PINNACLE MAPLE a Upper Palisades Lake 2 - 5835 Camp Muir 110* - 10080 m R PEAK PEAK c i e r L c o z 2.9 a k t CREEK l Yellowstone Cliffs 2 - 5180 h G OHANAPECOSH Camp Schurman 3485* - 9440 u o a LONGMIRE p 1.5 Silver a NORTH PUYALLUP u T l Falls Point Success (H) = horse sites available o NISQUALLY K 3.5 a l I Carbon River 4 1 3195 RIVER y n PARK n ENTRANCE u g Backpacker sites are also available at the Mowich Lake i P Ohanapecosh Campground r Cataract Valley 6 1 4620 C r a and White River frontcountry campgrounds. h 706 2.7 o e h C w i C *Space at Camp Muir and Camp Schurman is alloted by Deer Creek 2 - 2950 Eatonville c OHANAPECOSH o a 4.5 2.8 l w Tacoma N i a m the number of people rather than by the number of parties. Devil's Dream 1 5060 i s KLAPATCHE t l l DEER 7 q u z i a l l y G t PARK R a r z CREEK Dick Creek 2 - 4185 R i v e r i e D e e r SUNSHINE POINT 2.5 v S m i C r e s t e G Dick's Lake 1 - 5675 CAMPGROUND t. o c CAMP k A C r. r h N O e e n d r e w s a a l h a C r Eagle's Roost 7 - 4885 l i MUIR a INDIAN n T M a s c p Wilderness and climbing permits are available at the Longmire G u BAR Fire Creek 3 1 4300 THIS MAP IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR q e i i G l a c i e r c r e r NAVIGATION PURPOSES. LOCATIONS AND MILEAGES MAY VARY. Wilderness Information Center or Paradise Ranger Station in sum3.7mer. a u o Forest Lake 1 - 5660 S Mount Rainier National Park s m a h In winter, permits are available at the Longmire Museum (daily) or n SHRINER PEAK o Geographic Information System Glacier Basin 5 1 5965 l o

w REVISED 6/04 Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise (weekends only). h l LOOKOUT

f i e l d Golden Lakes 5 1 5130 a y 3.7 T 123 SHRINER Granite Creek 2 -1 5765

. G SOUTH PUYALLUP S Packwood, R i v e r PEAK Indian Bar 3 1 5120 White Pass, Hwy. 12 l RIVER a Klapatche Park 4 - 5515 G E r e i c 11.5 D UMP R I Lake Eleanor 3 1 5000 1.6 TR D T r a i l Lake George 5 1 4320 L ARK 4.6 P A AN R C O Lower Crystal Lake 2 - 5450 GOBBLERS E V KNOB .6 E M 1.4 6.7 4.2 Maple Creek 4 1 2815 LOOKOUT W L I P a n t h e r Mystic Camp 7 1 5570 .9 Nickel Creek 3 1 3385 PARADISE N. Puyallup River 3 1 3750 1.5 Comet Falls C r e e k INDIAN T Z Olallie Creek 2 1 3940 4.5 HENRY'S 1.6 Paradise River 3 1 3805 1.0 Westside Road closed to M Pyramid Creek 2 - 3765 vehicle traffic. Open for PYRAMID u 1.4 LAKE hiking, horses, and bicycling. CREEK d Redstone Camp 2 1 4620 2.0 d GEORGE DEVIL'S y NICKEL Shriner Peak 2 - 5355 F CREEK Snow Lake - 4690 o 2 M DREAM r 1.8 4 Cougar Rock Reflection k OLALLIE South Mowich River 1 2605 O 1.6 THREE Campground Lakes CREEK South Puyallup River 4 1 4000 U S t e 1.2 LAKES 2.0 v e n Box 2.8 Summerland 5 1 5940 N 5.7 s Canyon D I STEVENS CANYON k R I D G E

T Sunrise 8 2 6245 e ENTRANCE 3.5 e T 4.1 1.3 V I D E Tamanos Creek 4 1 5270

W r k R PARADISE 1.6 C r e e k e e r 5.8 C A w a t Three Lakes (H) 2 1 4680

O O e RIVER SNOW g P 1.4 i n C

r LAKE h r e Upper Crystal Lake 2 - 5825 W M g C 2.4 e k a u A EAGLE PINNACLE MAPLE a Upper Palisades Lake 2 - 5835 m R PEAK PEAK L o z 2.9 t CREEK Yellowstone Cliffs 2 - 5180 h u a LONGMIRE 1.5 Silver a T Falls (H) = horse sites available NISQUALLY K 3.5 ENTRANCE Backpacker sites are also available at the Mowich Lake Ohanapecosh Campground C and White River frontcountry campgrounds. 706 o w OHANAPECOSH *Space at Camp Muir and Camp Schurman is alloted by Eatonville l Tacoma N i the number of people rather than by the number of parties. i s t q u z a l l y R

R i v e r i SUNSHINE POINT v CAMPGROUND June 2006 e WASHINGTON TRAILS r

THIS MAP IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR Wilderness and climbing permits are available at the Longmire NAVIGATION PURPOSES. LOCATIONS AND MILEAGES MAY VARY. Wilderness Information Center or Paradise Ranger Station in summer. Mount Rainier National Park In winter, permits are available at the Longmire Museum (daily) or Geographic Information System Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise (weekends only). REVISED 6/04 123

Packwood, White Pass, Hwy. 12 Getting to Know the Mountain North Fork White River and the Win- high) in 50 minutes and had a happy walk slept, and crapped The Mountain for throp Glacier (huge!). Walked through the last 1.5 miles to the car. Completed ten days. I feel so lucky. moraines for one to two hours (and 93.5 miles at about 4 p.m. I slowed down. My neck stopped washed out trail) before returning to Shook hands with Steve and got our hurting. I ate oatmeal almost every day. older forest. Above a loud rushing creek, photo taken. And the time just whizzed by. Most of I rounded a corner and surprised a big Hope to return with my child some the pictures we took with the throwaway buck (four or five points). He must have day. cameras came out crappy, but I don’t been 15 feet from me before he ran up even care. They serve as a reference for the slope into the trees. Tuesday, July 26, 2005, 11:00 p.m. some wonderful memories that I hope Then we ran in to a group of climbers Home will last as long as I do. that included D.J.—who led the East I don’t know what the best part of the Bearhead scramble I went on with the 10 days after completing the trail trip was. Sharing time with my brother? Mountaineers in the spring. Visited a Looking back, I see Steve was right. Immersing myself in nature? Escaping little, and then rain began to fall just It feels like we stepped out for a 10- civilization? Ranking on my sister? Meet- a bit. day (really 9-day) hike and came out a ing new people every day and answering Only one other couple, and one single couple of days later. Time went by for and asking the great question: “What lady, in camp with us. The gal (in the me during this trip like during no other day are you on?” Watching my answers couple) is wearing a bear bell. Kind of vacation I’ve had. to that question change? Going from hurts our chances of seeing a bear here. We had no barometer for the rest of the a newbie to being almost done? Was But it probably makes her feel better. world. Other than 1, 2, 3, etc., the days that even something I wanted to look Walked up to the lake—very pretty. were unnamed. Our only concerns were forward to? Ate Jane’s corn/bean/rice/couscous the weather and where we were going All of the above, I guess. dinner. Great. Look forward to seeing each day. Aside from that, there was only One thing I know for sure: I’ll never her tomorrow. “the walk”—one step at a time. see, smell, or hear The Mountain the I feel like I “know” The Mountain now. same way again.  If not intimately, then certainly better Day 9, 11:24 p.m. than I did before. I look at it during my (Saturday - July 16, 2005) drive to work and think to myself, “I’ve “Mike in Tac” is a WTA member Home been there.” And I really have. I ate, from Tacoma. Nice to be home —had a big pizza din- ner and a movie with Steve and Jane. We got off to an early start—8 a.m.—from Mystic Lake. Autumn-like How to Prepare weather and temperatures this morning The 93-mile Wonderland Trail is the www.nps.gov/mora/trail/wonder. at the lake. The water was frigid. Early crown jewel of the state’s magnificent htm or by calling (360) 569-4453. on, The Mountain was visible, but it soon trail system. You’ll need to plan ahead Completed forms can be faxed to clouded over. We saw some marmots if you’re interested in hiking the com- (360) 569-3131. in the meadows above the lake. At the plete trail in one trip. pass, we came within 25 feet of a bear Campsite reservations can be made eating plants near the trail. Really cool. You must camp at designated camp- in person at the Longmire Wilder- Watched it for one or two minutes before sites while hiking the Wonderland, ness Information center beginning it moved away. so it’s important to plan an itinerary Memorial Day weekend. On down the trail along the Carbon and make reservations as soon as For more information visit Glacier in the rain and fog. No views, possible. www.nps.gov/mora/trail/wonder.htm but we could hear lots of rockfall on Sixty percent of the campsites are Guides: 50 Hikes in Mount Rainier the glacier. reservable, and the remaining 40 National Park by Ira Spring & Harvey We crossed the suspension bridge percent are assigned on a first-come- Manning (Mountaineers, $14.95, (easier than Tahoma Creek) and, as it first-served basis. 1999) and Discovering the Wonders was still raining with no sign of let up, Reservations are accepted at the of the Wonderland Trail by Bette Filley we decided to skip Spray Park in favor Longmire Wilderness Information (Dunamis, $13.99, 1998) of returning to Mowich Lake via Ipsut Center by mail or fax only, beginning Maps: National Geographic Trails Creek. April 1 of each year. Illustrated: Mount Rainier and Green Of course, within one hour the weather Reservation forms for Wonderland Trails Mount Rainier West #269 and improved. Long story short—we made it campsites are available online at Mount Rainier East #270 up the Ipsut headwall (about 1,000 feet

June 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS