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Letopis/ Yearbook 2018 Organigram Planinske Zveze Slovenije 2018
LETOPIS/ YEARBOOK 2018 www.pzs.si ORGANIGRAM PLANINSKE ZVEZE SLOVENIJE 2018 Naslov: LETOPIS PLANINSKE ZVEZE SLOVENIJE 2018 ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA YEARBOOK 2018 Izdajatelj in založnik/ Publisher: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Ob železnici 30 a, Ljubljana, www.pzs.si, [email protected] | Za Planinsko zvezo Slovenije: Jože Rovan | Uredila/ Editor: Manca Čujež, Matej Ogorevc | Oblikovanje/ Formation: MEDIA CENTER, Marko Gorjup s.p. | Tisk/ Printing: Fotolito Dolenc, Ljubljana | Naklada/ Edition: 650 izvodov/ copies | Besedila/ Credit: arhiv PZS/ Archives of PZS | Fotografija na naslovnici: Manca Čujež | ISSN 2385-9881 2 KAZALO KDO JE KDO V PZS 4 VSEBINA PLANINSKA ORGANIZACIJA V LETU 2018 5 PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE 6 THE ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA 7 KRONIKA NAJPOMEMBNEJŠIH PLANINSKIH DOGODKOV V LETU 2018 8 CHRONICLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MOUNTAINEERING EVENTS IN 2018 15 STATISTIKA PZS 2018 20 SPOMLADANSKA ANKETA 2018 ZA DRUŠTVA 24 MLADINSKA KOMISIJA 27 GOSPODARSKA KOMISIJA 28 KOMISIJA ZA PLANINSKE POTI 31 KOMISIJA ZA VARSTVO GORSKE NARAVE 32 VODNIŠKA KOMISIJA 34 KOMISIJA ZA TURNO KOLESARSTVO 35 KOMISIJA ZA ALPINIZEM 37 KOMISIJA ZA ŠPORTNO PLEZANJE 38 KOMISIJA ZA GORSKE ŠPORTE 41 ODBOR ZA USPOSABLJANJE IN PREVENTIVO 42 ODBOR GORE IN VARNOST 43 ODBOR ZA ČLANSTVO 43 ODBOR ZA PRAVNE ZADEVE 43 ODBOR PLANINSTVO ZA INVALIDE/OPP 44 ODBOR ZA ZALOŽNIŠTVO IN INFORMIRANJE 44 PLANINSKI VESTNIK 46 RAZISKOVALNA SKUPINA 46 SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ 47 PODELJENA PLANINSKA PRIZNANJA V LETU 2018 47 MEDNARODNA DEJAVNOST PZS 48 ANALIZA GORSKIH NESREČ V LETU 2018 54 MEDDRUŠTVENI ODBORI PLANINSKIH DRUŠTEV 57 PROSTOVOLJSTVO V PLANINSKI ZVEZI SLOVENIJE 63 PLANINSKA DRUŠTVA 64 PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE, Ob železnici 30 a, SI-1001 Ljubljana T +386 (0)1 43 45 680 | F +386 (0)1 43 45 691 E [email protected] | W www.pzs.si | FB www.facebook.com/PlaninskaZvezaSlovenije | Twitter @planinskazveza 3 KDO JE KDO V PZS/ WHO IS WHO IN PZS (na dan/ on 31. -
Annual Report 2019
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION OF SPORT CLIMBING ANNUAL REPORT 2019 www.ifsc-climbing.org CONTENT Paraclimbing World Championships ----58 President’s Message -------------------- 4 Olympic Qualifying Event ------------ 62 Secretary General’s Message ------------ 6 Youth World Championships-----------64 Inside the IFSC ------------------------- 8 ANOC Beach Games ---------------- 66 WHAT IS THE IFSC?--------------------- 8 China Open ------------------------ 67 MAKING HISTORY --------------------- 8 SPORT DEPARTMENT DEVELOPMENTS ---- 68 THE STRATEGIC PLAN------------------- 10 A 2019 Meetings -------------------- 68 A N WOMEN IN THE IFSC-------------------- 12 Official Sport Equipment ------------ 74 N N N New Result System ---------------- 77 U GOVERNANCE ------------------------ 14 U A A EXECUTIVE BOARD--------------------- 16 L Corporate Activities ------------------- 78 L STAFF -------------------------------20 MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS ------- 78 2 NEW HEADQUARTERS ------------------24 Marketing Strategy ---------------- 78 3 NATIONAL FEDERATIONS----------------26 Synca Dentsu --------------------- 79 R Sponsors------------------------- 80 R E TRIBUTE TO MR. YURIY SKURLATOV -------28 E P Broadcasters---------------------- 82 P COMMISSIONS------------------------30 O Monthly Highlights Shows ----------- 86 O R R Our Sport ------------------------------42 Digital Marketing ------------------ 90 T T NUMBER OF CLIMBERS WORLWIDE ------- 42 Media --------------------------- 94 Continental Qualifying Events OLYMPIC GAMES ---------------------- -
Offic Ial Pr Es S R Elea Se Noguchi & Shar
InternatIonal FederatIon oF Sport Climbing www.ifsc-climbing.org IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP VAIL 2014: SE NOGUCHI & SHAR AFUTDINOV SET THEMSELVES APART WITH GOLD MEDALS This Friday and Saturday, June 6-7, the 2014 IFSC Boulder World Cup Series pulled into its only stop on US soil, in Vail, Colorado. Vail, home to the third largest ski mountain in North America, has become a mecca for mountain sports enthusiasts, and this year’s World Cup, held in conjunction with the Vail Mountain Games, showcased the best of what the sport has to offer! The 2014 Vail IFSC Boulder World Cup attracted a large only in two more attempts. With her gold this weekend, field of American climbers that don’t regularly compete in Noguchi tightens the distance between herself and IFSC World Cups, and the competition was all the more Shauna Coxsey, still in first after Vail in the IFSC Boulder fierce! Rankings, making our next competitions in Haiyang and Laval must-sees! Renewed finals, but familiar champions OFFICIAL PRESSRELEA OFFICIAL Next stop: Haiyang (CHN) With a large field of American climbers making their way through to the semi-finals, the field was tense and finals The IFSC Boulder World Cup tour reaches its penultimate 2014 SATURDAY spots all the more difficult to come by. In the men’s field, stop, and the Lead series kicks off this June 20-22 in 7TH last year’s Vail gold medalist Russia’s Dmitrii Haiyang, China, with our first three-discipline World Cup of JUNE Sharafutdinov repeated his feat and took the top spot, 2014! With Lead, Speed, and Boulder, there's sure to be topping all four problems. -
IFSC World CUP Millau 2013: Austria's Golden Duo on Top In
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION OF SPORT CLIMBING IFSC WORLD CUP MILLAU 2013: AusTRIA’S GOLDEN ELEASE DUO ON TOP IN FRANCE R Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber are the winners of the second IFSC Bouldering World Cup last Saturday in Millau, France! Only in the finals Austria’s top boulderers racked up their victories in a more than thrilling competition. It was a bouldering competition as all climbing First competition, first victory for fans could dream: The IFSC Bouldering World Kilian Fischhuber Cup in Millau was marked by quite some In the men’s competition reigning world challenging boulder problems and many champion Dmitrii Sharafutdinov led the field turnarounds in the ranking lists. High-level after the semi-finals in front of surprisingly climbing was shown from the start - with the strong Jorg Verhoeven (made his first OFFICIAL PRESS OFFICIAL PRESS result that top boulderers like Momoka Oda, Bouldering final since 2008) and Bouldering 2013 Melissa Le Neve, Sean McColl or Jakob Schubert MONDAY World Cup winner 2012, Rustam Gelmanov. 8 already dropped out in the semi-finals. APRIL But in the finals Kilian Fischhuber, 5th after the Second stage, second victory for Anna Stöhr semis, got into his stride: In his first competition of the season Austria’s fivefold Bouldering Last year’s Overall Bouldering World Cup champion was the only one to top out on three winner Anna Stöhr was the lowest to qualify in final boulder problems and so walked away with the women’s final. But with a great performance the gold medal. Places two and three went to in the final round the Austrian double world Guillaume Glairon Mondet who gained three champion worked her way up and went head to ranks from the semi-finals and Netherland’s head with Britain’s youngster Shauna Coxsey Jorg Verhoeven. -
Offic Ial Press Relea Se the Penultimate Bouldering
IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP MUNICH 2019 SE THE PENULTIMATE BOULDERING WORLD CUP OF 2019 After two back-to-back competitions in China, the IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 returns to Europe for the second to last Bouldering competition 2019 held in Munich, Germany from May 18-19. Munich is a fixture in the Bouldering series, regularly Slovenian climber, Janja GARNBRET, who is currently hosting the final event of the season, this year it will 4-for-4 in Bouldering World Cup 2019 wins is planning be the penultimate Bouldering World Cup 2019. 273 on competing with her sights set on gold medal athletes are registered to compete to gain ground in number five. the Bouldering season rankings before the last stage that will takes place in Vail this year. Her compatriot, Jernej KRUDER, along with fellow competition favorite, Adam ONDRA (CZE) are both Spotlight on Bouldering determined to make a comeback in Munich after neither made it past the semi-final round in Wujiang. As speed climbing takes a break for a couple of weeks, KRUDER and ONDRA have both won a world cup this the full attention of sport climbing fans turns back to season in Moscow and Meiringen respectively. the bouldering athletes. OFFICIAL PRESS RELEA OFFICIAL Wujiang finalist, Jan HOJER (GER) and his German The recent Bouldering World Cup in Wujiang, China teammate, Alexander MEGOS will both have the home 2019 saw a very strong turnout from the Japanese climbing MONDAY field advantage this time around with the support of TH team, with seven of their athletes making it to finals 14 the local crowd cheering them on. -
Letopis/ Yearbook 2018 Organigram Planinske Zveze Slovenije 2018
LETOPIS/ YEARBOOK 2018 www.pzs.si ORGANIGRAM PLANINSKE ZVEZE SLOVENIJE 2018 Naslov: LETOPIS PLANINSKE ZVEZE SLOVENIJE 2018 ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA YEARBOOK 2018 Izdajatelj in založnik/ Publisher: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Ob železnici 30 a, Ljubljana, www.pzs.si, [email protected] | Za Planinsko zvezo Slovenije: Jože Rovan | Uredila/ Editor: Manca Čujež, Matej Ogorevc | Oblikovanje/ Formation: MEDIA CENTER, Marko Gorjup s.p. | Tisk/ Printing: Fotolito Dolenc, Ljubljana | Naklada/ Edition: 650 izvodov/ copies | Besedila/ Credit: arhiv PZS/ Archives of PZS | Fotografija na naslovnici: Manca Čujež | ISSN 2385-9881 2 KAZALO KDO JE KDO V PZS 4 VSEBINA PLANINSKA ORGANIZACIJA V LETU 2018 5 PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE 6 THE ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA 7 KRONIKA NAJPOMEMBNEJŠIH PLANINSKIH DOGODKOV V LETU 2018 8 CHRONICLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MOUNTAINEERING EVENTS IN 2018 15 STATISTIKA PZS 2018 20 SPOMLADANSKA ANKETA 2018 ZA DRUŠTVA 24 MLADINSKA KOMISIJA 27 GOSPODARSKA KOMISIJA 28 KOMISIJA ZA PLANINSKE POTI 31 KOMISIJA ZA VARSTVO GORSKE NARAVE 32 VODNIŠKA KOMISIJA 34 KOMISIJA ZA TURNO KOLESARSTVO 35 KOMISIJA ZA ALPINIZEM 37 KOMISIJA ZA ŠPORTNO PLEZANJE 38 KOMISIJA ZA GORSKE ŠPORTE 41 ODBOR ZA USPOSABLJANJE IN PREVENTIVO 42 ODBOR GORE IN VARNOST 43 ODBOR ZA ČLANSTVO 43 ODBOR ZA PRAVNE ZADEVE 43 ODBOR PLANINSTVO ZA INVALIDE/OPP 44 ODBOR ZA ZALOŽNIŠTVO IN INFORMIRANJE 44 PLANINSKI VESTNIK 46 RAZISKOVALNA SKUPINA 46 SLOVENSKI PLANINSKI MUZEJ 47 PODELJENA PLANINSKA PRIZNANJA V LETU 2018 47 MEDNARODNA DEJAVNOST PZS 48 ANALIZA GORSKIH NESREČ V LETU 2018 54 MEDDRUŠTVENI ODBORI PLANINSKIH DRUŠTEV 57 PROSTOVOLJSTVO V PLANINSKI ZVEZI SLOVENIJE 63 PLANINSKA DRUŠTVA 64 PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE, Ob železnici 30 a, SI-1001 Ljubljana T +386 (0)1 43 45 680 | F +386 (0)1 43 45 691 E [email protected] | W www.pzs.si | FB www.facebook.com/PlaninskaZvezaSlovenije | Twitter @planinskazveza 3 KDO JE KDO V PZS/ WHO IS WHO IN PZS (na dan/ on 31. -
A Short History of Sports Climbing in Arco
A short history of sports imposed by MaMaBa (Manolo, Mariacher, Bassi). climbing in the Sarca Valley And this is how the Sarca valley's pioneers climbed and freed itineraries which still give you the shivers to this day: the 25 meters of Super Swing, a white wall of 7b+, friction and technique which are of difficult 1972 The Colodri East Face: the first step intuition; Tom Tom Club, which on its second pitch, with towards the revolution a difficult sequence of movements on a slab gains the grade of 7b; La signora degli appigli, 7c, Manolo's history At the beginning of the thirties, the Sarca Valley's vertical master piece, with a single crux move, which is still exploration begins on the rock faces of Monte Casale, Dain extremely difficult today; Dracurella, 7a for its first pitch and Brento. For a few decades it will continue with and 7c+ on the second, an extremely technical slab; itineraries typical of the Dolomites until in 1972 Ugo and another Manolo masterpiece; Nisida's twenty six meters Mario Ischia, Giuliano Emanuelli and Fabio Calzá, of friction 7c and the 7c of Tom e Jerry the home of tiny mountaineers from Arco, will notice the exceptional holds, delicate movements on underclings. Two potential of the Colodri east face, putting up its first routě extremely technical routes, which Luisa lovane will that year: Umberta Bertamini. Shortly other routes follow: redpoint in 1985. Barbara, Katia, Agostina, Sommadossi, Renata Rossi... all have become classics on this east face, created by the 1985 Drill and overhangs: the new Ischia brothers, Giuliano Stenghel, Franco Monte, Maurizio turning point Giordani, Roberto Bassi, Luigi Giacomelli, Franco Zenatti, Giovanni Groaz.. -
Improving Rock Climbing Safety Using a Systems Engineering Approach
Lyle Halliday u5366214 Improving Rock Climbing Safety using a Systems Engineering Approach ENGN2225- Systems Engineering and Design, Portfolio Abstract This portfolio outlines an application of Systems Engineering methods to the sport of Rock climbing. The report outlines an organized, logical analysis of the system that is involved in making this sport safe and aims to improve the system as a whole through this analysis. Steps taken include system scoping, requirements engineering, system function definition, subsystem integration and system attributes which contribute toward a final concept. Two recommendations are made, one being a bouldering mat which incorporates the transportation of other equipment, the other being complete, standardised bolting protocols. These concepts are then verified against the design criteria and evaluated. 1.0 System scoping: A systematic way of establishing the boundaries of the project and focusing the design problem to an attainable goal. The project focuses on Lead Climbing. 2.0 Requirements engineering: Establishing the true requirements of climbers, and what they search for in a climbing safety system 2.1 Pairwise Analysis: Establishing safety, ease of use and durability as primary design goals 2.2 Design Requirements and Technical Performance Measures: Specifying the design requirements into attainable engineering parameters. 2.3 House of Quality: Identifying the trade-offs between safety and functionality/ cost and the need for a whole-of-systems approach to the problem, rather than a component approach. 3.0 System Function Definition: Establishing concepts and system processes. 3.1 Concept Generation and Classification: Identifying possible and existing solutions on a component level and taking these to a subsystem level. -
Climbing Stadium ROCKMASTER
iinternonterno llibretto.inddibretto.indd 1 116/08/166/08/16 117:517:51 iinternonterno llibretto.inddibretto.indd 2 116/08/166/08/16 117:517:51 Arco - Paradiso dello sport outdoor ............................................ 9 Arco - Outdoor activities paradise ............................................... 11 Programma / Program ................................................................ 17-19 ROCKMASTER Festival .............................................................. 23 ROCKMASTER Village ................................................................ 24 Biglietti e Info / Tickets & Info ...................................................... 33 Parcheggi e mobilità / Travel & Parking Info ................................. 37 IFSC LEAD WORLD CLIMBING CUP ......................................... 43 IFSC SPEED WORLD CLIMBING CUP ...................................... 45 Climbing Stadium ROCKMASTER .............................................. 47-49 ROCKMASTER DUEL ................................................................ 52-53 ROCKMASTER KO BOULDER CONTEST .................................. 57 Città di Arco - La mappa / Arco - The map ................................. 64-65 Comitato organizzatore / Organising Committee ......................... 68 Referenti e Partner / Reference & Partners .................................. 69 Outdoor Experience .................................................................... 73 ArcoRock legends ...................................................................... 78 Gli Oscar -
Navy Accuses SEAL School Dropout of Starting Blaze That Destroyed Ship
MILITARY FACES OLYMPICS Services work together Harrison’s masterpiece Americans to play to get critically injured gets remix for delayed for gold medal in soldier off Army ship milestone anniversary men’s basketball Page 3 Page 14 Page 24 Marines to replace fitness test crunches with planks by 2023 ›› Page 5 stripes.com Volume 80 Edition 80 ©SS 2021 CONTINGENCY EDITION FRIDAY,AUGUST 6, 2021 Free to Deployed Areas ‘Tougher BONHOMME RICHARD FIRE than boot camp’ at Olympics First Coast Guardsman to compete in Games addresses mental stress BY SETH ROBSON Stars and Stripes ENOSHIMA, Japan — The first U.S. Coast Guardsman to compete in the Olympics said athletes in Tokyo face a tougher mental chal- lenge than recruits in boot camp. Lt. j.g. Nikki Barnes, 27, became the first Coast Guardsman to represent the United States at the Olympics in any sport when she and crew- mate Lara Dall- OMAR POWELL//U.S. Navy man-Weiss, 32, Barnes Sailors and federal firefighters respond to the blaze aboard the amphibious assault ship USS Bonhomme Richard at Naval Base San Diego on of Shoreview, July 13, 2020. The ship, which burned for four days, was so extensively damaged that it had to be scrapped. Minn., began sailing in the Wom- en’s 470 class last week. Reflecting on the Olympic ex- perience after missing out on a medal, the native of St. Thomas in Navy accuses SEAL school dropout the U.S. Virgin Islands said she’ll apply the lessons she learned in Japan in her Coast Guard career. “It’s my first Games,” she said, of starting blaze that destroyed ship shortly before the men’s 470 race Wednesday. -
MEDIA GUIDE 2018 Englisch
CON 1. WELCOME NOTE ////////////////////////////////////// TENTS ////// ////////////////// ////////////////// Dear media representatives, 1. Welc ome Note Welcome to adidas ROCKSTARS 2018! We are thrilled to host the eighth edition of our interna - 2. tional bouldering invitational at Stuttgart’s beautiful Porsche-Arena, one of the most modern General In 02 sports arenas in Europe. formation 3. for the Me Schedule dia 04 This year’s event sees over 70 top class athletes from over 20 different countries including 4. multiple Bouldering World Champions, the overall winners and top athletes of the 2018 Boul - adidas ROC 07 dering World Cup, the two-time overall champion and current front-runner of the Lead World KSTARS 4.1 Cup, the two reigning European Bouldering Champions as well as the four-time World Champion General In 08 Combined (Boulder/Lead/Speed). You can look forward to a stellar season finale! formatio 4.2 n Prize Mon 08 When we first came up with the idea for adidas ROCKSTARS, nearly every single athlete we ey talked to mentioned that the best competitions are the ones with a great atmosphere and 4.3 Hea d Referee 13 good music. That input encouraged us to implement our idea of combining ‘climbing’ with 4 ‘music’ live on stage. This year, world-famous MC & Beatboxer DJ Eklips from Paris will heat .4 Regul ations (Abs 12 up the crowds during the final together with extreme sports DJs Chainsaw and Sungod. The 4 tract) renowned American rock climber and hobby dj Dave Graham, who was the fourth person to .5 Partic ipating Cou 19 send Wolfgang Güllich’s legendary route ‘Action Directe (the world’s first 9a), will be spinning ntries the tunes at the after party. -
Posouzení Validity Klasifikace Obtížností Nové Bouldrové Oblasti
UNIVERZITA KARLOVA Fakulta tělesné výchovy a sportu Posouzení validity klasifikace obtížností nové bouldrové oblasti (Goethovy skalky) Diplomová práce Vedoucí diplomové práce: Vypracoval: doc. Jiří Baláš Ph.D. Johan Hannsmann Praha, únor 2021 Prohlašuji, že jsem závěrečnou diplomovou práci zpracoval samostatně a že jsem uvedl všechny použité informační zdroje a literaturu. Tato práce ani její podstatná část nebyla předložena k získání jiného nebo stejného akademického titulu. V Praze, dne …....................................... podpis diplomanta Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta/katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: Poděkování Tímto bych chtěl poděkovat především doc. Jiřímu Balášovi Ph.D. za odborné vedení při práci a Ladislavu Žákovi za umožnění tvorby v lezecké oblasti, dále své rodině za podporu během psaní závěrečné práce i celého předchozího studia. Abstrakt Název: Posouzení validity hodnocení klasifikace obtížností v nové bouldrové oblasti. Cíle: Cílem této práce je posoudit validitu klasifikace obtížnosti výstupů při boulderingu v nové oblasti. Metody: Ověření klasifikace obtížností prováděl soubor šesti mužů a čtyř žen. Hodnocení probíhalo během jedné kontinuální návštěvy skal s individuální dobou odpočinku mezi problémy. Lezci klasifikovali 10 výstupů okamžitě po dokončení jednotlivého výstupu a individuálně, bez možnosti radit se o svých odhadech. Navrhovaná obtížnost výstupů pro klasifikaci se pohybovala mezi obtížnostmi 12 až 17 IRCRA. Výsledky: Průměrné hodnocení klasifikace obtížnosti cest vyšlo o 0,89 bodu IRCRA vyšší než prvotní návrh s výskytem drobných rozdílů mezi muži a ženami. Vliv výkonnosti lezců na jejich hodnocení obtížnosti je statisticky nevýznamný.