6/30/11

Exploring thE BEst of CEntral and southErn My tastings of central and were the largest and broadest I have On a more positive note, the most exciting region this year is the Marche, where ever done. I found a number of properties that were new to me, but also tasted a I was truly blown away by the sheer diversity and pure beauty of what I tasted. huge number of wines that left a lot to be desired. Times are tough; there is no has a superb vintage with the 2010 whites, many of which are doubt about that. Demand in many markets remains weak while the shrinking exceptional. Puglia remains my favorite region for deep value, which I define as power of the US dollar has begun to eat into margins in a big way. It appears that wines in the 86-88 point range that can be had for $10-$12 a bottle or less. many wineries are making the choice to compete on price and are willing to Primitivo and Negroamaro are varieties perfectly suited to delicious, every-day sacrifice quality in the process. Given the nature of the times, it’s hard to be too wines. The same is true with Montepulciano in Abruzzo. Quality is more irregular, critical of cash-constrained wineries struggling to survive, but the simple fact is but the best wines are well worth seeking out. Throughout the center and south that many wines are falling out of the range where they are truly interesting. Make there is an increasing use of stainless steel (and occasionally cement) for entry- no mistake about it, given the enormous amount of great wine being produced level wines, which allows the character and fruit of these indigenous grapes to virtually everywhere in the world today, that is exactly what is on the line. I continue express their unique personalities. There are plenty of other terrific wines to to be convinced the regions of the south and center have virtually unlimited explore in this article, but they are more driven by grower than by region. For more potential, but winemakers have to be willing to make the necessary sacrifices on the many native grapes of the center and south readers may want to consult in order to compete on the global stage. Where producers remain diligent and my introduction in Issue 189, while thumbnail summaries of the regions are focused on quality, the wines are compelling. At their best, the wines of center available in the introduction to Issue 182. and south offer an amazing range of diversity and value. - Antonio Galloni

ARGIOLAS

ARGIOLAS 2007 ANGIALIS SARDINIA $65; 500 ml SWEET WHITE 93 ARGIOLAS 2010 COSTAMOLINO SARDINIA $13 WHITE 89 ARGIOLAS 2008 IS SOLINAS SARDINIA $30 RED 89 ARGIOLAS 2009 ISOLA DEI NURAGHI ISELIS ROSSO SARDINIA $30 RED 87 ARGIOLAS 2010 ISOLA DEI NURAGHI ISELIS BIANCO SARDINIA $20 WHITE 91 ARGIOLAS 2008 KOREM SARDINIA $45 RED 91 ARGIOLAS 2010 ROSATO SERRALORI SARDINIA $14 ROSÉ 88 ARGIOLAS 2010 S’ELEGAS SARDINIA $13 WHITE 88 ARGIOLAS 2006 TURRIGA SARDINIA $80 RED 94 ARGIOLAS 2010 IS ARGIOLAS SARDINIA $20 WHITE 91 A renewed focus in indigenous grapes and a more refined approach to winemaking wraps around the entire palate, with sumptuous layers of apricots, tangerine and mint. are some of the developments that are in the air at Argiolas.The 2007 Isola dei The Iselis is the richest of these whites from Argiolas. Despite its intensity, the wine Nuraghi Angialis flows from the glass with tangerine, mint and white flowers, all remains light on its feet. A polished, elegant finish adds to an impression of total of which are woven into a fabric of inimitable class. A plush, inviting finish rounds refinement. The 2008 Isola dei Nuraghi Korem dazzles from start to finish. The things out in style. Angialis is 95% Nasco and 5% Malvasia di Cagliari. The wine spent fruit shows marvelous freshness and vitality, while hints roasted coffee beans, mocha 13 months in French oak barrels (50% new). Residual sugar is 159 grams per liter. and licorice add further dimensions of complexity. A blast of tar, jammy black fruit The 2010 Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino is gorgeous. Here, too, the and licorice informs the opulent finish. Korem is 60% Bovale Sardo, 20% Carignano fruit heads towards the tropical end of the spectrum. Hints of papaya, passion fruit, and 20% Cannonau. It spent 12 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. The 2010 flowers and light honey are woven together in a fabric of notable elegance. Clean, Isola dei Nuraghi Serralori Rosato is far from an easygoing wine. Layers of mineral notes appear later, adding proportion and framing the finish beautifully. This fruit, hard candy, sweet herbs and spices are woven together in this intense rose. The is a totally convincing, harmonious white. Costamolino is 90% Vermentino and 10% Serralori is Cannonau, Carignano, Monica and Bovale Sardo. The 2010 S'Elegas assorted indigenous grapes. Malolactic fermentation is partially blocked, but the wine Nuragus di Cagliari (Nuragus) is surprisingly fat and lush in this vintage. Ripe nevertheless possesses plenty of richness. The 2008 Isola dei Nuraghi Is apricots and citrus peel are some of the notes that emerg e from this generous, Solinas is predominantly Carignano from the Sulcis appellation. It shows the more expansive white. A creamy finish rounds things out nicely. The flagship 2006 Isola muscular side of Carignano in its plush dark fruit. Brighter notes on the finish add lift dei Nuraghi Turriga boasts gorgeous inner sweetness in its black cherries, mint, and freshness. The Is Solinas can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring. The 2009 sage, rosemary and spices. This is a fabulous Turriga with superb delineation Isola dei Nuraghi Iselis Rosso is 85% Monica, 10% Carignano and 5% Bovale and tons of harmony. The 2006 is shaping up to be a great Turriga, but it needs time. Sardo. Dark fruit, leather, spices, earthiness and licorice are some of the nuances that The 2010 Vermentino di Sardegna Is Argiolas is 100% Vermentino from emerge from this powerful red. The aromas and flavors are already quite forward, the estate's oldest vineyards. It shows gorgeous clarity and nuance in a pointed, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The estate's 2010 Isola mineral-laced expression of fruit. The energy and vitality carry through to the focused dei Nuraghi Iselis Bianco is another brilliant wine. The featured grape is Nasco - finish. There is plenty of density to the fruit; in fact I am tempted to see how the wine which is more typically found in dessert wines - along with 15% Vermentino. The fruit might develop in the cellar. Page 1 of 6 BISCEGLIA

BISCEGLIA 2007 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BASILICATA $30 RED 92 GUDARRÀ BISCEGLIA 2008 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BASILICATA $15 RED 90 TERRA DI VULCANO BISCEGLIA 2009 SYRAH ARMILLE BASILICATA $23 RED 90 BISCEGLIA 2007 TRÉJE BASILICATA $18 RED 89 The 2007 Aglianico del Vulture Gudarra is an explosive wine imbued with The 2009 Syrah Armille comes across as elegant and polished in its dark fruit, smoke, ash and tobacco. Layers of mint and cured meats develop layered, juicy fruit. Four months in new French oak give the Armille an extra on the mid-palate, adding further complexity and nuance. All of the elements dimension of richness, but without overpowering the balance. This is another build with notable intensity towards the intense, virile finish. The 2008 beautiful wine from Bisceglia. Bisceglia's 2007 Treje is a stainless steel-aged Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano is a gem. It reveals gorgeous blend of equal parts Aglianico, Merlot and Syrah. Sweet spices, leather and textural richness that belies its elevage in stainless steel. There is plenty of super-ripe dark fruit flow effortlessly from this balanced, voluptuous red. varietal and regional character in this beautifully balanced, stylish Aglianico. Clearly this is a more internationally styled red, but it works.

BOTROMAGNO

BOTROMAGNO 2010 GRAVINA PUGLIA $10 WHITE 87 BOTROMAGNO 2010 GRAVINA POGGIO AL BOSCO PUGLIA $20 WHITE 89 BOTROMAGNO 2008 NERO DI TROIA PUGLIA $18 RED 88 BOTROMAGNO 2006 PASSITO DI MALVASIA PUGLIA $34; 375 ml SWEET WHITE 92 GRAVISANO Quality at Botromagno has increased and become more consistent across that caress the palate all the way through to the voluptuous, polished finish. the board since consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini arrived two years The 2008 Nero di Troia is a big, powerful wine loaded with dark fruit, wild ago.The 2010 Gravina is a pretty white that caresses the palate with layers cherries, herbs and earthiness. This rustic, unoaked red isn't for everybody, of perfumed fruit and an accessible personality. The Gravina is 60% Greco but it will work nicely with similarly hearty dishes. The estate's 2005 Passito and 40% Malvasia aged in steel. The 2010 Gravina Poggio al Bosco is a di Malvasia Gravisano offers up candied orange peel, sweet spices and single-vineyard selection of 60% Greco and 40% Malvasia. The Poggio al dried flowers in a mid-weight, slightly oxidative style that recalls Vin Santo. Bosco spends a few months on its lees, which gives the wine much of its Truffles, spice cake and exotic Malvasia fruit wrap round the finish. The Gravisano textural richness. It is a gorgeous, plush white with layers of expressive fruit is a modestly sweet dessert wine with 140 grams per liter of residual sugar.

DI MAJO NORANTE

DI MAJO NORANTE 2009 MOSCATO REALE APIANAE $25; 500 ml SWEET WHITE 92 DI MAJO NORANTE 2010 CABERNET TERRA DEGLI OSCI MOLISE $12 RED 88 DI MAJO NORANTE 2009 AGLIANICO DEL MOLISE MOLISE $18 RED 91 CONTADO DI MAJO NORANTE 2008 MONTEPULCIANO RISERIA MOLISE $35 RED 92 DON LUIGI DI MAJO NORANTE 2010 SANGIOVESE TERRE DEGLI OSCI MOLISE $12 RED 87 DI MAJO NORANTE 2009 RAMITELLO MOLISE $16 RED 91

Di Majo Norante's Moscato Reale Apianae is often one of the most The 2008 Montepulciano Riserva Don Luigi presents a cool, inward compelling sweet wines in Italy, as it is again in 2009. Tangerine blossoms, expression of this native grape. A vein of lively minerality frames black fruits, orange peel, flowers, mint and minerals are just some of the nuances that flow herbs and smoke. The wine softens with air, turning seamless and impeccably from this elegant, refined wine. The Apianae was aged in neutral oak and elegant on the finish. The 2010 Sangiovese Terre degli Osci flows with supple carries just 94 grams of residual sugar, making it a moderately sweet wine that fruit, showing the round, dark side of Sangiovese. The 2009 Ramitello is a doesn't tire the palate. The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Terre degli Osci … blend of 80% Montepulciano and 20% Aglianico that sees 18 months in French shows excellent depth and freshness in its dark fruit, grilled herbs and spices. oak. Layers of smoke, grilled herbs, menthol and minerals are overlayed on a core The 2009 Aglianico del Molise Contado impresses for its density, balance of black fruit. The Ramitello shows serious power and intensity all the way through and depth. Hints of smoke and tar add complexity to the rich, powerful fruit. to the palate staining finish. Floral notes add lift and freshness on the close.

ELIO MONTI

ELIO MONTI 2005 MONTEPULCIANO ABRUZZO $35 RED 89 D'ABRUZZO PIGNOTTO

The 2005 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Pignotto from Monti is a huge, full- Smoke, leather and a host of dark aromas and flavors add to the wine's bodied wine that shows the masculine side of Montepulciano. It is a burly wine imposing personality. packed with fruit and boasting an eye-popping 34.5 grams of dry extract. Page 2 of 6 FALESCO

FALESCO 2009 ASSISI ROSSO UMBRIA $16 RED 90 FALESCO 2010 EST! EST! EST! $10 WHITE 87 FALESCO 2009 FERENTANO LAZIO $23 WHITE 88 FALESCO 2010 SANGIOVESE UMBRIA $12 RED 88 FALESCO 2008 CABERNET MARCILIANO UMBRIA $45 RED 91 FALESCO 2010 MERLOT UMBRIA $16 RED 90 FALESCO 2008 MERLOT MONTIANO LAZIO $45 RED 92 FALESCO 2010 POMELE ALEATICO LAZIO $25; 500 ml SWEET RED 92 FALESCO 2007 SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO UMBRIA $45 RED 90 FALESCO 2009 SYRAH TELLUS LAZIO $18 RED 91 FALESCO 2010 VITIANO BIANCO UMBRIA $10 WHITE 87 FALESCO 2010 VITIANO ROSSO UMBRIA $10 RED 88

Brothers Renzo and Riccardo Cotarella make a wide range of wines at The 2010 Merlot possesses lovely inner perfume and expressive dark fruit. Falesco, their family-owned winery on the Umbria/Lazio border. As always, The wine retains its freshness and vibrancy through to the finish, where readers will find a number of great values in this lineup. The range includes fragrant white flowers add lift. The 2008 Merlot Montiano is absolutely beau tiful three additions that have been in the works for the last few years; the in this vintage. Sweet dark fruit, mocha and spices are followed by hints of Sagrantino, Syrah Tellus and Assisi Rosso, the wine I am personally the most smoke, tar and incense. Silky tannins frame the fruit beautifully from start to excited about.The 2009 Assisi Rosso is a new wine from Falesco. The blend finish. This seamless, polished red is a terrific showing from Falesco. The is 70% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. … Sweet 2010 Pomele Aleatico is a gracious, mid-weight dessert wine. Sweet tobacco, underbrush, licorice and cherries flow from this beautifully delin eated, candied cherries, dried flowers, spices and herbs are woven together nicely. layered wine. This is another strong effort from Falesco, not to mention a The Pomele is a fresh unoaked wine meant for near-term drinking. The 2007 terrific value. The 2010 Est! Est! Est! is quite pretty in this vintage. Crisp fruit Sagrantino di Montefalco bursts from the glass with masses of jammy fruit. and floral notes come together nicely in the glass. There is nothing fancy This is a decidedly explosive Sagrantino endowed with gorgeous inner per - here, just a pleasing, refreshing white that delivers outstanding quality for the fume. Sweet scents of sage and white flowers add complexity on the opulent money. Cotarella works with Roscetto, an indigenous Umbrian grape for his finish. The 2009 Syrah Tellus is another new offering from Falesco. It boasts 2009 Ferentano , which is also Falesco's most ambitious white. Layers of considerable opulence in its super-ripe dark fruit. Notes of inner sweetness rich, honeyed fruit flow from a mid-weight yet expressive frame. French oak and perfume follow, leading to the elegant, polished finish. It will be interesting gives the wine additional volume and breadth on the palate, but also marks to see where this wine goes over the next few years. Cotarella aged the Tellus the wine to a significant degree. The 2010 Sangiovese shows the darker in 2nd year oak barrels, 70% French, 30% American. The 2010 Vitiano side of the grape in its intense fruit. This is a fairly bold, concentrated Bianco (Vermentino, Verdicchio) comes across as quite lush in its creamy, Sangiovese, but all of the elements come together nicely in the glass. It is a textured fruit. It, too, offers plenty of value. The 2010 Vitiano Rosso shows great value. The 2008 Cabernet Marciliano is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon excellent balance …. Dark red fruit, roasted coffee beans, spices and mocha and 30% Cabernet Franc aged in French oak. It shows good up-front intensity are some of the aromas and flavors that emerge from this fleshy, generous in its dark fruit, but then loses a bit of energy on the mid-palate and finish. Vitiano Rosso. The fruit is beautifully layered all the way through to the finish. This supple, soft Cabernet appears to be built for near and mid-term pleas ure.

FATTORIA GALARDI

FATTORIA GALARDI 2009 ROCCAMONFINA TERRA CAMPANIA $90 RED 93 DI LAVORO

I suppose after so many important vintages it is only natural that Mother Nature some of the more important vintages to come around. Terra di Lavoro is 80% takes a break. … This is one of the most open, approachable young Terra di Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso. The 2009 spent 14 months in French oak Lavoros I have ever tasted. The wine shows good intensity in its dark fruit, barrels, 70% new. Readers who want to see how some of the older vintages with layers of ash, smoke, crushed flowers and minerals that develop in the are developing may want to take a look at notes from my vertical tasting last glass. The 2009 is a pretty, accessible Terra di Lavoro that will make a great year, published in Issue 190. introduction for readers who are new to the wine and don't want to wait for

LA CARRAIA

LA CARRAIA 2007 FOBIANO UMBRIA $30 RED 89 LA CARRAIA 2010 ORVIETO CLASSICO UMBRIA $16 WHITE 86 POGGIO CALVELLI LA CARRAIA 2010 SANGIOVESE UMBRIA $12 RED 86 LA CARRAIA 2009 TIZZONERO UMBRIA $12 RED 90 La Carraia is an excellent source for well-priced wines. The estate is located Cotarella aims for a rich, dark expression of fruit, which he has certainly in Umbria and is co-owned by oenologist Riccardo Cotarella.The 2007 achieved here. A brief passage in new French oak barrels is felt in the wine's Fobiano is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 12 months texture and flavor profile. The 2009 Tizzonero (Montepulciano) is more in used French oak barrels. This pretty, supple red blossoms on the palate with convincing …. The dark fruit of Montepulciano seems inherently better suited expressive layers of dark fruit. The 2010 Orvieto Classico Superiore Poggio to Cotarella's approach in the vineyards and cellar. Licorice, smoke and Calvelli is a simple, refreshing white with clean, well articulated fruit and a crisp underbrush are some of the nuances that emerge from this fat, explosive red. finish. The 2010 Sangiovese comes across as decidedly plump and juicy. The richness of the fruit carries through beautifully to the deep, powerful finish.

Page 3 of 6 LEONE DE CASTRIS

LEONE DE CASTRIS 2009 MALVASIA BIANCA PUGLIA $25 WHITE 89 DONNA LISA LEONE DE CASTRIS 2010 PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA PUGLIA $18 RED 89 VILLA SANTERA LEONE DE CASTRIS 2009 SALICE SALENTINO MAIANA PUGLIA $12 RED 89 LEONE DE CASTRIS 2007 SALICE SALENTINO RISERVA PUGLIA $15 RED 91 RISERVA 50TH VENDEMMIA LEONE DE CASTRIS 2010 VERDECA BIANCO MESSAPIA PUGLIA $15 WHITE 88 Quality continues to improve at this venerable estate. The wines have become of tobacco, leather, licorice and spices develop in the glass, adding further far more consistent since the arrival of oeonologist Riccardo Cotarella a few complexity and nuance. This is another huge overachiever within its price years back. The estate's 2009 Malvasia Bianca Donna Lisa is a rich, textured range. The 2007 Salice Salentino Riserva 50th Vendemmia is big, powerful white layered with tropical fruit, mango and citrus. French oak gives the wine and super intense. Ripe black fruits, licorice, smoke, ash and game come much of its volume, yet all of the elements are beautifully balance in this through in this assertive Salice Salentino. Silky tannins round out the finish. As polished, understated white. The cask-aged 2010 Primitivo di Manduria Villa the name states, the 50th Vendemmia celebrates the estate's 50th harvest. Santera is a rich, explosive wine packed with varietal character. It shows lovely The Riserva is 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera, aged in neutral intensity and fabulous overall balance, especially for the price. The 2009 Salice French oak. The 2010 Verdeca Messapia is a tasty, crisp, unoaked white best Salentino Maiana is 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera, aged in large suited to near-term drinking. Flowers and grapefruit linger on the bright finish. neutral oak. Layers of elegant, refined fruit emerge from this graceful red. Hints

MASTROBERARDINO

MASTROBERARDINO 2009 AGLIANICO CAMPANIA $24 RED 89 MASTROBERARDINO 2010 FALANGHINA SANNIO CAMPANIA $18 WHITE 88 MASTROBERARDINO 2009 FIANO DI RADICI CAMPANIA $30 WHITE 88 MASTROBERARDINO 2010 FIANO DI AVELLINO CAMPANIA $24 WHITE 90 MASTROBERARDINO 2010 GRECO DI TUFO CAMPANIA $24 WHITE 88+ MASTROBERARDINO 2009 GRECO DI TUFO CAMPANIA $30 WHITE 91 NOVA SERRA MASTROBERARDINO 2010 FALANGHINA CAMPANIA $20 WHITE 89 MORABIANCA MASTROBERARDINO 2010 LACHRYMA CHRISTI DEL CAMPANIA $20 RED 90 VESUVIO ROSSO MASTROBERARDINO 2010 LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL CAMPANIA $20 WHITE 87 VESUVIO BIANCO MASTROBERARDINO 2005 TAURASI NATURALIS CAMPANIA $80 RED 94 HISTORIA MASTROBERARDINO 2006 TAURASI RADICI CAMPANIA $60 RED 95

Mastroberardino is one of Italy's most historic properties. My vertical tasting Morabianca is a gorgeous, inviting white laced with ripe, almost tropical fruit of the estate's Taurasi (published in Issue 190), with vintages back to 1928, and white flowers. It reveals expressive inner fragrance that frames the fruit was a revelation. The 2009 Aglianico is a flashy, overt wine packed with fruit. all the way through to the open, radiant finish where hints of ash add the last It is perhaps slightly less complex and varietally nuanced than the Lacryma nuances of complexity. The 2010 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso Christi but nearly as pleasing. The estate's Aglianico is a good introduction presents the elegant side of Piedirosso, one of Campania's most important to this grape. The 2010 Falanghina Sannio is a beautiful, expressive wine indigenous red grapes. Ash and minerals add nuance to the dark wild at this level. Like so many 2010 whites it is cooler and more minerally than is cherries in this hugely enjoyable unoaked red. I especially like the energy often the case. Sweet floral notes linger on the exquisite finish. This entry- and focus here. The estate's 2010 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco is level Falaghina, from vineyards in the Sannio district, is quite different from one of the more overt whites in this lineup. Minerality takes a back seat to an the estate's Falanghina Morabianca, which is made from vines in Irpinia. The intense expression of peaches and yellow stone fruits. I find less excitement 2009 Fiano di Avellino Radici is the estate's top Fiano. Both bottles I tasted here than in the estate's finest 2010 whites. The 2 005 Taurasi Naturalis were suprisingly rich and lush, with tons of tropical fruit. The Radici stands Historia , the estate's more modern interpretation of Taurasi, is made from apart from all of the other 2010 whites. The 2010 Fiano di Avellino is a vineyards in Mirabella Eclano. Eighteeen months in French oak barrels has gorgeous wine laced with ash, cured meats, bacon and smoke, all of which given the wine much of its shape and dimension, but without sacrificing add considerable complexity to the fruit. This is a beautiful Fiano di Avellino varietal expression. It is a beautiful wine that is much improved over previous loaded with character. The 2010 Greco di Tufo is made from vineyards in vintages. The 2006 Taurasi Radici hits the palate with masses of blueber ries, Irpinia. Clean mineral notes frame the fruit nicely in this energetic, vibrant black berries, flowers and spices. The 2006 is a big, explosive wine in need white. This shows excellent varietal character and lovely definition. The 2009 of considerable cellaring. That said, it is remarkably accessible for a young Greco di Tufo Nova Serra , from a vineyard in Montefusco near the winery, Taurasi from this historic property. Layers of fruit continue to build towards is a big white loaded with personality. A melange of smoke, ash and minerals the exotic, concentrated finish. This is a marvelous wine in the making. The flows gracefully from this textured, multi-dimensional Greco di Tufo. A long, 2006 spent two years in a combination of casks and smaller French oak bar rels. polished finish rounds things out in style. The 2010 Falanghina Irpinia

Page 4 of 6 MONTEVETRANO

MONTEVETRANO 2009 MONTEVETRANO CAMPANIA $95 RED 92 The 2009 Montevetrano is quite possibly the most accessible young vintage quickly. A complete vertical tasted last year and published in Issue 190 found of this wine I have ever tasted. I am accustomed to Montevetranos that are the wines in great shape, including all of the earliest vintages. Montevetrano is tight and austere, but not in 2009. In 2009 Montevetrano is open and radiant, approximately 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico with layers of dark fruit and a polished, well-articulated finish. The 2009 is likely that spent 12-14 months in French oak, 50% new. It remains a benchmark in to be an early drinker, but that doesn't necessarily mean the wine will age southern Italian oenology.

MORGANTE

MORGANTE 2009 NERO D'AVOLA SICILY $18 RED 88 MORGANTE 2008 NERO D'AVOLA SICILY $40 RED 92 DON ANTONIO These are two delicious wines from Morgante, both loaded with varietal is fabulous in this vintage. It is a decidedly cool, inward Don Antonio. A character. The 2009 Nero d'Avola shows off the variety's fleshy, supple persistent vein of minerality supports layers of dark fruit, mint and smoke in personality in its dark fruit, spices, leather and licorice. It is a pretty wine to this tightly coiled, energetic finish. Varietal notes swirl around in the glass as enjoy over the next few years. The 2008 Nero d'Avola Riserva Don Antonio the wine build towards the generous finish.

TASCA D'ALMERITA

TASCA D'ALMERITA 2008 CABERNET SAUVIGNON SICILY $50 RED 92 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2009 CHARDONNAY SICILY $60 WHITE 90 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2009 LAMURI SICILY $18 RED 91 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2010 LEONE D'ALMERITA SICILY $18 WHITE 90 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2009 REGALEALI NERO D'AVOLA SICILY $15 RED 88 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2009 NOZZE D'ORO SICILY $28 WHITE 90 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2010 LE ROSÉ REGALEALI SICILY $15 ROSÉ 88 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2010 REGALEALI BIANCO SICILY $15 WHITE 88 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2008 CYGNUS SICILY $30 RED 90 TASCA D'ALMERITA 2008 ROSSO DEL CONTE SICILY $70 RED 93+

From top to bottom this is an impressive set of wines from Tasca d'Almerita. that approaches or perhaps even surpasses its most important vintages. The estate seems to have honed in on a refined style across the entire range. Seamless, textured and inviting, the Nozze d'Oro offers gorgeous fleshiness Regaleali's 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon bursts from the glass with a melange and an inviting personality. Nozze d'Oro is 78% Inzolia and 22% a clone of super-ripe black fruit, blueberry jam, espresso, tar and sweet spices. It is Sauvignon known as Sauvignon Tasca. Sweet floral notes frame the bright an explosive wine that comes close to being over the top yet manages to finish. The 2010 Le Rose Regaleali is 100% Nerello Mascalese. Crushed retain balance despite its extroverted personality. The 2009 Chardonnay is flowers, spices and red berries flow together nicely in this subtle, understated an understated, polished wine, words I can rarely write about Chardonnay in rose. The 2010 Regaleali Bianco is a reliably delicious wine. White peaches Sicily. Clean, mineral notes frame expressive layers of varietal fruit in this and flowers are some of the notes that emerge from this crisp, refreshing elegant white. A subtle finish rounds things out in style. The 2009 Lamuri white. The Regaleali Bianco is one of my favorite value-priced summertime is Tasca's mid-range Nero d'Avola, although it is a wine that regularly whites. The Bianco is Grecanico, Inzolia and Catarratto. The 2008 Cygnus overdelivers for its price. Sweet candied fruit, herbs and flowers meld together is 58% Nero d'Avola and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 14 months in nicely in this polished, mid-weight red. …. I especially like the intensity and French oak, 30% of which was new. In general, I am far from a fan of Sicilian drive of the finish. The 2010 Leone d'Almerita is simply fabulous in this blends, but all of the elements come together beautifully here. Layers of black vintage, the best I can remember tasting. Layers of fruit come together fruit, mint, sweet herbs and licorice build nicely towards the intense, powerful beautifully on a rich, textured frame. The introduction of aromatic grapes finish. The suppleness of the fruit makes this approachable today, but ideally (Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon) gives the wine lovely floral life and the wine should really be cellared for at least a few more years. The 2008 complexity. Its hard to believe the Leone does not undergo malolactic Rosso del Conte is the estate's flagship. After a period of experimentation, fermentation. In 2010 the blend is 60% Catarratto, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Rosso del Conte is now back to being predominantly Nero d'Avola, with a Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon. The 2009 Nero d'Avola Regaleali is a huge 5% dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It shows marvelous richness success considering its modest price tag. It reveals plenty of varietal and intensity in a slightly cool, reserved style relative to some of the more character in its perfumed fruit. Sweet mint and floral overtones reappear on exuberant vintages. Mint, roasted espresso beans and mocha add complexity the finish, adding freshness and balance. This is without question one of the to the beautifully delineated, polished fruit. The 2008 is a gorgeous Rosso most enjoyable wines readers will find in this price range. The Nero d'Avola del Conte, but it needs time. is aged in equal parts tank and oak. The 2009 Nozze d'Oro is another wine Page 5 of 6 TENUTA DI FESSINA

TENUTA DI FESSINA 2009 ETNA ROSSO ERSE SICILY $30 RED 88 TENUTA DI FESSINA 2008 ETNA ROSSO IL MUSMECI SICILY $60 RED 91+

I have been following Tenuta di Fessina for several years. These are the first enjoyed sooner rather than later. The Erse is 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% wines that begin to capture the promise shown by the early wines. The estate Nerello Cappuccio. The 2008 Etna Rosso Il Musmeci is 95% Nerello is owned by Federico Curtaz, who first achieved recognition as Angelo Gaja's Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio from vineyards planted in 1920. Layers long-time agronomist. Sweet candied cherries, crushed flowers, spices and of dark fruit emerge from this powerful old-vine red, accentuated by hints of anise are some of the notes that emerge from the 2009 Etna Rosso Erse . sweet tobacco and cedar. This is a decidedly intense style for the Etna. It will This pretty, feminine red is quite typical of the wines of the Etna. Ideally it is be interesting to see the direction Musmeci takes from here.

VALLE REALE

VALLE REALE 2008 MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO ABRUZZO $18 RED 88 VALLE REALE 2010 MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO ABRUZZO $12 ROSÉ 89 CERASUOLO VALLE REALE 2007 MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO ABRUZZO $35 RED 93 SAN CALISTO VALLE REALE 2010 TREBBIANO D'ABRUZZO ABRUZZO $12 WHITE 88 VIGNE NUOVE

The 2008 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a tasty, unoaked red. Dark fruit, d'Abruzzo San Calisto flows across the palate with layers of blue and black leather, licorice and tobacco flow from this generous, plump Montepulciano. fruit. Mineral notes appear later, adding balance and proportion as the wine The estate's 2010 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Cerasuolo is once again one builds towards its explosive, elegant finish. The San Calisto spent 18 months of Italy's best roses, not to mention it is totally delicious. Round, sweet in new French oak, all of which has been absorbed with no issues whatsoever. and harmonious, the wine caresses the palate with layers of fruit all the way Valle Reale's 2010 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Vigne Nuove is a clean, crisp white through to the long, resonant finish. The top of the line 2007 Montepulciano laced with beautifully delineated varietal fruit.

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