Exploring the Best of Central and Southern Italy
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6/30/11 Exploring thE BEst of CEntral and southErn italy My tastings of central and southern Italy were the largest and broadest I have On a more positive note, the most exciting region this year is the Marche, where ever done. I found a number of properties that were new to me, but also tasted a I was truly blown away by the sheer diversity and pure beauty of what I tasted. huge number of wines that left a lot to be desired. Times are tough; there is no Campania has a superb vintage with the 2010 whites, many of which are doubt about that. Demand in many markets remains weak while the shrinking exceptional. Puglia remains my favorite region for deep value, which I define as power of the US dollar has begun to eat into margins in a big way. It appears that wines in the 86-88 point range that can be had for $10-$12 a bottle or less. many wineries are making the choice to compete on price and are willing to Primitivo and Negroamaro are varieties perfectly suited to delicious, every-day sacrifice quality in the process. Given the nature of the times, it’s hard to be too wines. The same is true with Montepulciano in Abruzzo. Quality is more irregular, critical of cash-constrained wineries struggling to survive, but the simple fact is but the best wines are well worth seeking out. Throughout the center and south that many wines are falling out of the range where they are truly interesting. Make there is an increasing use of stainless steel (and occasionally cement) for entry- no mistake about it, given the enormous amount of great wine being produced level wines, which allows the character and fruit of these indigenous grapes to virtually everywhere in the world today, that is exactly what is on the line. I continue express their unique personalities. There are plenty of other terrific wines to to be convinced the regions of the south and center have virtually unlimited explore in this article, but they are more driven by grower than by region. For more potential, but winemakers have to be willing to make the necessary sacrifices on the many native grapes of the center and south readers may want to consult in order to compete on the global stage. Where producers remain diligent and my introduction in Issue 189, while thumbnail summaries of the regions are focused on quality, the wines are compelling. At their best, the wines of center available in the introduction to Issue 182. and south offer an amazing range of diversity and value. - Antonio Galloni ARGIOLAS ARGIOLAS 2007 ANGIALIS SARDINIA $65; 500 ml SWEET WHITE 93 ARGIOLAS 2010 COSTAMOLINO SARDINIA $13 WHITE 89 ARGIOLAS 2008 IS SOLINAS SARDINIA $30 RED 89 ARGIOLAS 2009 ISOLA DEI NURAGHI ISELIS ROSSO SARDINIA $30 RED 87 ARGIOLAS 2010 ISOLA DEI NURAGHI ISELIS BIANCO SARDINIA $20 WHITE 91 ARGIOLAS 2008 KOREM SARDINIA $45 RED 91 ARGIOLAS 2010 ROSATO SERRALORI SARDINIA $14 ROSÉ 88 ARGIOLAS 2010 S’ELEGAS SARDINIA $13 WHITE 88 ARGIOLAS 2006 TURRIGA SARDINIA $80 RED 94 ARGIOLAS 2010 IS ARGIOLAS SARDINIA $20 WHITE 91 A renewed focus in indigenous grapes and a more refined approach to winemaking wraps around the entire palate, with sumptuous layers of apricots, tangerine and mint. are some of the developments that are in the air at Argiolas.The 2007 Isola dei The Iselis is the richest of these whites from Argiolas. Despite its intensity, the wine Nuraghi Angialis flows from the glass with tangerine, mint and white flowers, all remains light on its feet. A polished, elegant finish adds to an impression of total of which are woven into a fabric of inimitable class. A plush, inviting finish rounds refinement. The 2008 Isola dei Nuraghi Korem dazzles from start to finish. The things out in style. Angialis is 95% Nasco and 5% Malvasia di Cagliari. The wine spent fruit shows marvelous freshness and vitality, while hints roasted coffee beans, mocha 13 months in French oak barrels (50% new). Residual sugar is 159 grams per liter. and licorice add further dimensions of complexity. A blast of tar, jammy black fruit The 2010 Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino is gorgeous. Here, too, the and licorice informs the opulent finish. Korem is 60% Bovale Sardo, 20% Carignano fruit heads towards the tropical end of the spectrum. Hints of papaya, passion fruit, and 20% Cannonau. It spent 12 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. The 2010 flowers and light honey are woven together in a fabric of notable elegance. Clean, Isola dei Nuraghi Serralori Rosato is far from an easygoing wine. Layers of mineral notes appear later, adding proportion and framing the finish beautifully. This fruit, hard candy, sweet herbs and spices are woven together in this intense rose. The is a totally convincing, harmonious white. Costamolino is 90% Vermentino and 10% Serralori is Cannonau, Carignano, Monica and Bovale Sardo. The 2010 S'Elegas assorted indigenous grapes. Malolactic fermentation is partially blocked, but the wine Nuragus di Cagliari (Nuragus) is surprisingly fat and lush in this vintage. Ripe nevertheless possesses plenty of richness. The 2008 Isola dei Nuraghi Is apricots and citrus peel are some of the notes that emerg e from this generous, Solinas is predominantly Carignano from the Sulcis appellation. It shows the more expansive white. A creamy finish rounds things out nicely. The flagship 2006 Isola muscular side of Carignano in its plush dark fruit. Brighter notes on the finish add lift dei Nuraghi Turriga boasts gorgeous inner sweetness in its black cherries, mint, and freshness. The Is Solinas can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring. The 2009 sage, rosemary and spices. This is a fabulous Turriga with superb delineation Isola dei Nuraghi Iselis Rosso is 85% Monica, 10% Carignano and 5% Bovale and tons of harmony. The 2006 is shaping up to be a great Turriga, but it needs time. Sardo. Dark fruit, leather, spices, earthiness and licorice are some of the nuances that The 2010 Vermentino di Sardegna Is Argiolas is 100% Vermentino from emerge from this powerful red. The aromas and flavors are already quite forward, the estate's oldest vineyards. It shows gorgeous clarity and nuance in a pointed, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The estate's 2010 Isola mineral-laced expression of fruit. The energy and vitality carry through to the focused dei Nuraghi Iselis Bianco is another brilliant wine. The featured grape is Nasco - finish. There is plenty of density to the fruit; in fact I am tempted to see how the wine which is more typically found in dessert wines - along with 15% Vermentino. The fruit might develop in the cellar. Page 1 of 6 BISCEGLIA BISCEGLIA 2007 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BASILICATA $30 RED 92 GUDARRÀ BISCEGLIA 2008 AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BASILICATA $15 RED 90 TERRA DI VULCANO BISCEGLIA 2009 SYRAH ARMILLE BASILICATA $23 RED 90 BISCEGLIA 2007 TRÉJE BASILICATA $18 RED 89 The 2007 Aglianico del Vulture Gudarra is an explosive wine imbued with The 2009 Syrah Armille comes across as elegant and polished in its dark fruit, smoke, ash and tobacco. Layers of mint and cured meats develop layered, juicy fruit. Four months in new French oak give the Armille an extra on the mid-palate, adding further complexity and nuance. All of the elements dimension of richness, but without overpowering the balance. This is another build with notable intensity towards the intense, virile finish. The 2008 beautiful wine from Bisceglia. Bisceglia's 2007 Treje is a stainless steel-aged Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano is a gem. It reveals gorgeous blend of equal parts Aglianico, Merlot and Syrah. Sweet spices, leather and textural richness that belies its elevage in stainless steel. There is plenty of super-ripe dark fruit flow effortlessly from this balanced, voluptuous red. varietal and regional character in this beautifully balanced, stylish Aglianico. Clearly this is a more internationally styled red, but it works. BOTROMAGNO BOTROMAGNO 2010 GRAVINA PUGLIA $10 WHITE 87 BOTROMAGNO 2010 GRAVINA POGGIO AL BOSCO PUGLIA $20 WHITE 89 BOTROMAGNO 2008 NERO DI TROIA PUGLIA $18 RED 88 BOTROMAGNO 2006 PASSITO DI MALVASIA PUGLIA $34; 375 ml SWEET WHITE 92 GRAVISANO Quality at Botromagno has increased and become more consistent across that caress the palate all the way through to the voluptuous, polished finish. the board since consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini arrived two years The 2008 Nero di Troia is a big, powerful wine loaded with dark fruit, wild ago.The 2010 Gravina is a pretty white that caresses the palate with layers cherries, herbs and earthiness. This rustic, unoaked red isn't for everybody, of perfumed fruit and an accessible personality. The Gravina is 60% Greco but it will work nicely with similarly hearty dishes. The estate's 2005 Passito and 40% Malvasia aged in steel. The 2010 Gravina Poggio al Bosco is a di Malvasia Gravisano offers up candied orange peel, sweet spices and single-vineyard selection of 60% Greco and 40% Malvasia. The Poggio al dried flowers in a mid-weight, slightly oxidative style that recalls Vin Santo. Bosco spends a few months on its lees, which gives the wine much of its Truffles, spice cake and exotic Malvasia fruit wrap round the finish. The Gravisano textural richness. It is a gorgeous, plush white with layers of expressive fruit is a modestly sweet dessert wine with 140 grams per liter of residual sugar. DI MAJO NORANTE DI MAJO NORANTE 2009 MOSCATO REALE APIANAE MOLISE $25; 500 ml SWEET WHITE 92 DI MAJO NORANTE 2010 CABERNET TERRA DEGLI OSCI MOLISE $12 RED 88 DI MAJO NORANTE 2009 AGLIANICO DEL MOLISE MOLISE $18 RED 91 CONTADO DI MAJO NORANTE 2008 MONTEPULCIANO RISERIA MOLISE $35 RED 92 DON LUIGI DI MAJO NORANTE 2010 SANGIOVESE TERRE DEGLI OSCI MOLISE $12 RED 87 DI MAJO NORANTE 2009 RAMITELLO MOLISE $16 RED 91 Di Majo Norante's Moscato Reale Apianae is often one of the most The 2008 Montepulciano Riserva Don Luigi presents a cool, inward compelling sweet wines in Italy, as it is again in 2009.