For my mountain bike girl, Ditte MOUNTAIN BIKING SOUTH 41 GREAT RIDES IN ’S

Text and photographs by Dave Mitchell Maps by Geographx Acknowledgments

Firstly, I need to acknowledge the two intrepid Canadians we encountered on the Heaphy Track in 1985. We were off caving and they were having the time of their lives sin- gle-track riding. This planted the ‘what a fantastic piece of kit’ seed into our collective brains and our first mountain bike purchase soon followed. From then on we rode most weekends, exploring local tracks and the back country be- yond. I would also like to thank my partners in crime Ditte van der Meulen, Joe Arts, Russ Taylor, Pete Braggins, Kathy Lynch, Alison Taylor, Mike Pearce, Guy Wynn-Williams, Dave Fenton, Murray Dwyer, Carol Hides (Wheels), Sharyn Mill- er, Dion Rae, Shane Burmester, Helen Gilroy, Phil and Paul Bainbridge, John Gurr, the Canterbury Mountain Bike Club and the Ground Effect crew. Stephanie Turner provided her vast language skills for the initial proofing of the book, with Ditte keeping me on track. Thanks to all those farmers and landowners who allow access into their special piece of First published in 2010 by Craig Potton Publishing New Zealand, and to all the track builders past and present, especially the early miners who created some of the best Craig Potton Publishing 98 Vickerman Street, PO Box 555, Nelson, New Zealand mountain bike tracks in the country, without knowing that www.craigpotton.co.nz such things would exist one day. Forgive me for any errors, omissions and misdirections, Reprinted 2011 and please inform the publisher so that corrections can be © Maps by Geographx made to future editions. Descending the Maitai River South Branch Track in style © Photography and text: Dave Mitchell

ISBN: 978 1 877517 32 7

Printed in China by Midas Printing International Ltd

This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without the permission of the publishers. 2 contents 1 7 3 4 5 8 10 Introduction 8 21 Paringa Cattle Track 75 15 11 16 9 1 Kahurangi Lighthouse 10 22 St James Conservation Area 78 17 12 2 Rameka Track and Canaan Loop 14 23 Poulter River Valley 81 6 3 Kill Devil Track 17 24 Wharfedale Track 84 19 20 13 4 Maungatapu Track 21 25 Summit Road–Double Fence Line 87 14 18 5 Dun Mountain–South Maitai 24 26 Dogs Range 90 22 6 Beebys Knob 28 27 Mesopotamia 94 7 D’Urville Island 31 28 Hopkins River Valley 98 23 8 Nydia Track 34 29 Dusky Trail 101 24 9 Wakamarina Track 37 30 Ahuriri Valley 104 10 Cullen Creek–Waikakaho 40 31 Pavilion Peak–Melina Ridge Tracks 107 25 11 Whites Bay Loop–Mt Robertson 43 32 East and West Manuherikia 110 21 12 Mt Patriarch 46 33 Mt Buster–Johnstones Creek Track 113 26 28 27 13 Half Moon Bay–Okiwi Bay 50 34 Prospect Hill–Omeo Gully Loop 116 29 14 Clarence Reserve 53 35 Rock and Pillar Range 119 30 31 15 Mokihinui–Lyell Track 56 36 Government Track 122 32 16 Charming Creek Walkway 59 37 Cardrona–Roaring Meg Pack Track 125 38 33 17 Denniston–New Creek 62 38 Black Peak and Mt Alaska 128 37 18 Croesus–Moonlight Gold Trail 66 39 Mt Bee Ridge Track 131 40 34 19 Kirwans–Blacks Point Track 69 40 Mavora Lakes Park 134 35 39 20 Big River–Waiuta Track 72 41 Percy Saddle–Borland Road 137 41 36 the map was not where the GPS indicated. A GPS can get introduction you out of trouble when the clouds roll in, but remember, it is electronic and can fail at the drop of a hat.

In the mid 1980s mountain bikes became yet another piece of recreational equipment introduced to New Huts Zealand. Many of the early bikes, resplendent with carriers and pannier bags, were lugged over by American New Zealand’s hut network is ideal for overnight mountain tourists and merely used to cycle-tour New Zealand, based on a perception that we had a rough and ready bike trips. Without huts, the tents, sleeping mats and ex- second-world roading system. Instead they found a network of roads more suited to European touring bicycles tra paraphernalia required for a night out make biking so or cyclocross mounts. When their owners left the country, most of these bikes were traded or sold into the much harder and less accessible. To arrive at a hut with a lightweight sleeping bag and extra food is pure pleasure hands of Kiwis looking for a faster and more efficient way into the back country. in comparison, and opens up all sorts of riding possibilities. Treat huts as if you own them, and make room for others This was by no means the first time pioneering Kiwis had be local tracks or far-flung ones in the remotest part of the as if they own them. Carry out all your rubbish and leave used fat-tyred bicycles in the back blocks of New Zealand. high country. Their magical ability to amplify one’s physical them as you would like to find them. Buy the appropriate Indeed there are stories of adventurous cyclists piloting efforts still amazes me after all these years. hut tickets and expect to pay for private huts. penny-farthings on little more than goat tracks along the South Island’s wild and rugged West Coast in the late 1800s. Length and difficulty Water, footprint and responsibility The many cycling clubs that thrived around the turn of the Many of the rides in this book are downright hard and Most New Zealand streams and rivers provide safe drinking nineteenth century had a history of epic trips on rugged gnarly, requiring a high level of fitness if you want to com- water, just avoid those in farm country that don’t come from tracks and trails, which at the time made up much of the plete the ride. But on the other hand you can break them a bush gully or the high tops. When doing a tops trip carry country’s roading network. down into manageable chunks and still enjoy them. They adequate water and pre-plan for the fill up points along the The specialised mountain bike provided a strong frame will build stamina and moral fibre, expand your horizons way using your topo map. Leave only tyre tracks, and take of chromoly steel and a group of components that could and hopefully help you appreciate what a wonderful place only air, water, memories and digital images. Ask permis- take the rough and tumble of off-road riding. They could and time we live in. sion to ride on private land. Most landowners are more than climb steep hills and descend them without the fear of Weather is the most important factor to consider for any willing to share their back country if it doesn’t interfere with brake fade or failure, broken forks or bent frames—a per- trip, and New Zealand seems to have very variable weather their day to day farming. Leave all gates as you find them fect recipe for long distance trips into the unknown with at any time of year. The cornerstone of any ride is to book and don’t run stock. Top section of the Croesus–Moonlight Gold Trail the possibility of returning in one piece. fine weather with light winds, maybe even a tail wind for They have evolved rapidly to become lighter, stronger, the returning leg. River crossings can be just as dangerous Safety and equipment suspended and more accessible to the average rider. They for mountain bikers as they are for trampers; soft snow will The key to survival and having a great trip is firstly prepa- Grading float along riverbeds, swoon sweet single-track, descend stop you dead and strong winds can sometimes make rid- ration, followed by fitness and equipment. Your body, like 1 Flat and relatively smooth, suitable for those huge mountains and climb some of the steepest tracks you ing impossible, especially on the tops. your bike, should be well maintained and fit for the pur- starting out. could imagine. But let’s not forget it takes a rider to push pose. The ride should be planned and the weather gods 2 Mainly flat, with short gradual climbs that require things along, and many of us rose to the challenge and still Maps and navigation and oracles consulted, and their predictions duly noted some fitness and skill. keep it going to this day. The Department of Conservation (DOC) produces some and acted upon. Gear taken should match the conditions 3 More challenging climbs and terrain requiring a Alexei Sayle once said ‘They are the most efficient form excellent pamphlets on mountain biking areas. From my and expected terrain. Plans B, C and D will give you alterna- medium level of fitness and skill. of movement on the surface of the planet’, and I guess he’s experience they provide good general information but you tive options to head for the best weather and riding condi- 4 Challenging climbs, descents and technical got a point. In fact some experts say it is the most efficient will still need a New Zealand topo map to navigate your way tions with less pressure and more pleasure. Pick your riding riding requiring a good level of skill and fitness. machine ever invented, returning a calorific equivalent of in detail. This is especially important in the back country, as buddies accordingly. Have fun and ride hard, but don’t be May involve some bike carrying. 3000 miles per gallon, in automotive terms. They are a stand pre-ride planning with topo maps can give you a good in- shy about turning back if conditions make it necessary. 5 Gnarly and long climbs with challenging descents up, sit down, walking, running and tramping machine. dication of the terrain, river crossings, alternate tracks and and technical riding requiring a high level of skill Hopefully this book will inspire you to turn the pedals and expected distance and climbing. I take a GPS and compass, and fitness. Some bike carrying required. explore New Zealand on your mountain bike, whether it and am regularly surprised that where I thought I was on

8 9 Kahurangi Lighthouse Collingwood West, Golden Bay

As the West Coast unfolds south from , it encounters Whanganui (Westhaven) Inlet and below it a long beach that stretches to Kahurangi Point and beyond. When whalers first came to Westhaven Inlet, they also discovered coal, and the resident Ngati Rua tribe used it as a valuable trading commodity. Eight years after the 1852 Collingwood gold rush, Maori discovered gold while prospecting at Salty Creek, and overnight the rush was on. A large area behind Lake Otuhie called the Golden Blocks was extensively mined, and relics of old boilers, stampers and mining paraphernalia still remain.

To get to Whanganui, take the road north from Colling- You soon arrive at the Anaweka River, where hopefully wood before turning west at Seaford onto Pakawau Bush the estuary is in the last throes of emptying out the high Road and then south onto Dry Road. A gravel road snakes tide and all the fresh water that has backed up behind it. over the many causeways of the inlet and heads to the If not, you can pick a high point on top of the adjacent coast at Paturau, before continuing south to the Anatori grassy dune to refuel and observe the water level dropping. River through remote and spectacular scenery. Nikau, flax Patience is a virtue and much better than getting washed and southern rata surround the camp spot at the mouth out into the Sea. After crossing safely, pedal on of the river, the Tasman Sea crashes onto the beach, and down the beach through coastal rock shelves to the large limestone cliffs head up the valley, making this is an idyllic rock outcrops of the Big River estuary. This is the final major base to pedal from. river crossing of the ride. A 4WD ford crosses the Anatori and the track climbs for Unlike the Anaweka estuary, which drains quickly (about a few hundred metres, with spectacular views up and down one hour before low tide) and stays low for three or four the coast, before dropping down to the bach settlement on hours afterwards, Big River is only low enough to cross 20 the banks of the Turimawiwi River. Cross its slippery bottom to 30 minutes before low tide and then for about one hour and skirt the sand dunes next to the river to arrive on the afterwards. The best place to cross is diagonally from an old beach. The departing tide usually leaves a surface of hard, tractor rotting away gracefully on the mud flats that head flat sand to ride south upon. along the estuary’s north side. From the rocky exit, ride Salty air invades the nostrils as you head down the back to the beach for a short sprint to Kahurangi Point. coast, past limestone outcrops and gullies that support tree The top of the lighthouse will now be visible. Beside the Manufactured in England in sections and riveted together Rock mushroom below the Kaipuke cliffs at Anatori ferns and nikau. Sand hills flow inland and beyond them a beach an old corrugated iron farm shed is still standing on on site, it was up and running by 1903. The big earthquake thin band of farmland stretches little more than a kilometre a grassy terrace, and a track just a little further down the of 1929 triggered a landslide that wiped out the three origi- of getting the tide right or you may get washed out to sea to the bush-covered hills. This land was laboriously cleared coast leads to the DOC hut. Sheltered by old macrocarpa nal keepers’ houses and cracked the lighthouse tower and or stuck on the rocks until the next low tide. and burnt before the turn of the century and became one trees, the 25-bunk hut with its big verandah and view of the lens. It was repaired by 1931 and has been blazing ever To avoid corrosion, wash the sand and salt thoroughly of the remotest farming communities in the South Island. sea makes a great base for further exploration. It was the since. The coastline further south is wild and inhospitable, off your bicycle with clean water. Bright green fields are dotted with equally bright white last keeper’s house, built before the light was automated with a jumble of massive rocks peeling off into the sea. sheep, well washed by the frequent West Coast rain. Fresh- in 1959. On the return trip, you can ride the beach section from water streams cross the hard sand, forming shallow runnels From the hut, head through the wind-blown scrub and the Turimawiwi River all the way back to Anatori along the and pushing streams of coloured sand back to the sea. long grass to the white and rust-stained cast iron lighthouse. base of a series of spectacular sheer cliffs. It’s just a matter

10 11 to Collingwood

Anatori Tasman Sea

Cowin Road

A n a t o r i R i v e

r

Kahurangi A n Point a w T Kahurangi lighthouse e u k r a im R a Kahurangi iv w e iw r i R Maps: M25 Collingwood, L25 Kahurangi Lighthouse iv er Distance: 32 km return Climbing: 205 metres Grade: 2 Notes: Tide tables from www.niwascience.co.nz/services/tides forecast high and low tides anywhere in coastal waters around New Zealand for up to 28 days. Recommended reading: North of Kahurangi, West of Golden Bay by Carol Dawber and Cheryl Win, which has lots of excellent black and white photos. er iv R ig B 200 Anatori Kahurangi 100 Turimawiwi Lighthouse River

metres Anaweka River Big River 12 0 0 5 10 15 19 km D to Takaka ry River Glenview Road

Rameka Track and Canaan Loop Ra me ka Abel Tasman National Park C re e k High on the Pikikiruna Range, at the end of the narrow and winding Canaan Road, are two exceptional pieces of single track. The Rameka Track is hidden in the forest of the Abel Tasman National Park, and the Canaan Loop winds among rocky outcrops and bush remnants on top of the ‘marble mountain’. The first was built around the turn of the nineteenth century as a pack track into Takaka; and the second accesses a remote farm in the Pikikiruna high country, which was originally cleared in the 1920s. The longer ride up and back from Takaka is our E G preference, though a shorter trip can be made by using Canaan Road as access. N A R From Glenview Road at the back of Takaka, a wide and form the Canaan Loop. From Pages Saddle head east and ) Wainui Saddle ( friendly gravel road runs beside Rameka Creek heading up uphill to Wainui Saddle. There is a beautiful bush section A the Rameka valley. The river flats and lower slopes of the followed by gnarly single track just before the saddle. N Pages Saddle surrounding hills have been colonised by young totara and From the Wainui Saddle, a large orange marker beck- ( U ) patches of manuka, providing shade on hot Golden Bay ons you through a farm gate and onto more sweet single R days. The road finally fords the creek and climbs steeply to track. The track flows along the 900-metre contour among I the west. Benched single track materialises on your right the skeletons of fallen trees just below the bush edge. K Mt Evans in the form of Project Rameka’s Great Expectations. This The creeks have been lined with giant stones, and old K I track climbs through part of the 50-hectare property that logs create shoots, jumps and slalom courses. The track The Gorge Creek Jonathan Kennett and Bronwen Wall bought as a carbon circles below Mt Evans to a high point above the Gold P sink, focusing on forest restoration, biodiversity and non- Creek catchment before descending in a series of bermed motorised recreation. It pops out back on the road for the switchbacks to the south end of the farm and eventually final stretch to the start of the old Rameka pack track. the Canaan Road. The luscious single track disappears into mature native After a short stint on the road heading north you pick forest and over rocks of marble, sidling onto a granny gear up the second loop track, in the lower part of the farm, climb. This ascends through cutover bush at the forest edge through a gate just after the only ford on the road. Follow before re-entering the forest for good. An extremely gnarly the orange arrows and Golds Creek through a mini gorge but short climb grunts over roots on a clay base, before a before the track heads north, climbing to an open lookout Canaan Road series of twists and turns brings you to a low saddle from point. A fast downhill ensues to the woolshed track, which where the track follows the 800-metre contour. The result heads down to the picnic and camping spot at the end of is a long and superb section of riding mixed with technical Canaan Road. creek crossings below a high canopy of beech trees, rimu, After refuelling, head northeast through the national to Takaka or dracophyllum , and tree ferns. park boundary gate, and climb back up to Pages Saddle 900 This section ends at Pages Saddle, where you break out ready for the return ride down the remarkable Rameka Canaan Road into the open to look over the relatively new Canaan Downs Track. It’s like riding a new track and you have the Project Scenic Reserve. This is still a working farm, but thanks to Rameka single track to look forward to on your descent 700 DOC, the local MTB clubs and money from Ground Effect’s back into the Rameka valley and eventually the outskirts of 500 slush fund, stunning pieces of single track now join an old Takaka. It’s hard to find two such great and very different 4WD farm track from one end of the farm to the other to single tracks in one place, whichever way you ride them. Pages Saddle metres 300 Glenview Road

14 100 0 0 5 10 14 km Kill Devil Track Upper Takaka, Golden Bay

The Kill Devil Track has a checquered history. It was initially built as a pack track to service the gold workings of the Stanley and Anatoki area. It was subsequently used as a stock track to a cleared area on the Lockett Range, which provided grazing for sheep. Consequently, a musterers’ hut (Riordans Hut) was built on the tops just above the start of Sams Creek. The track never curried much favour with the tramping fraternity but attained an awesome reputation among early mountain bikers. A route with 58 switchbacks in the initial 800-metre climb is not to be sneezed at and remains to this day a challenge for all those who bike it.

The Kill Devil Track starts in Golden Bay near the bottom of entering the bush. This is regenerating beech, with tree the Takaka Hill. Turn onto Uruwhenua Road and after about ferns and broadleaves making the most of the cool, damp 3 kilometres the Kill Devil Track is signposted among a clus- gullies. The grade soon steepens as you start grovelling up ter of farmhouses. Bike due west on a gravel road through a narrow ridge between Snelling and Camp creeks before farmland and into a forestry block. The intention book you breaking out of the bush into stunted manuka with ankle- sign at the start of the track shows how many mountain biting gorse at the edge of the track. bikers have risen to the challenge. The road is left behind The first switchbacks are a challenge, but the smooth and benched single track prevails. surface gives a good run up to the tight corners. About The old miners knew how to build a robust well- halfway up, the base material of the track becomes rocky graded track, and it has for the most part remained in but good traction remains; it only requires more effort to great condition to this day. The track gradually climbs on master the turns. Eventually a combination of erosion and a long, grassy terrace, crossing hidden side streams before larger rocks makes some of the upper switchbacks unride- able, except for magicians on wheels—legend has it that all but two corners have been ridden. Just below the summit a small stream is signposted, and Map: N26 Takaka this is one of the few places to fill up before the ridge top. Distance: Rameka 22 km, Canaan 20 km The quartz sandstone on the tops sustains stunted vegeta- Climbing: Rameka 950 metres, Canaan 445 metres tion that is severely windblown and exposed to the worst Grade: Rameka 3, Canaan 2 of the weather. There is a good spot at the thousand-metre Notes: Both tracks can be ridden all year round, but please mark to have a break, refuel and enjoy the view. avoid them in the wet. For more information on Project Out east is the Takaka Valley and beyond it Abel Tasman Rameka go to: http://projectrameka.carbonsink.org.nz/ or National Park. To the west, the Waingaro River snakes out email: [email protected] towards Takaka from Lake Stanley. Across the Waingaro are Project Rameka is a registered charitable entity. Above Single-track heaven on Canaan Downs Devil River Peak and the Devil Range, which often remain Above right Dry creek crossing on the Rameka Track partly obscured by black, westerly cloud—accompanied by ominous forked lightning on our trip.

The Kill Devil Track beyond Tin Hut Shelter

16 17 to Takaka

The track heads along the Lockett Range in style for a further 6 kilometres to Riordans Hut. It’s technical and challenging with fast, smooth, open sections that you can fly down in big ring, though gnarly, rocky descents blasted out of steep country allow little room for error. You encounter more switchbacks as the track drops down a tight ridge before resuming on another great section of fast single track to the hut turnoff. This historic hut has been refurbished and provides Uruwhenua great views east. Back on the main track you can descend to D Road Skeet Creek into cool, green beech forest, to refill your water E V bottles. This marks the boundary of Kahurangi National I Park, so is as far as DOC allows mountain bikes to go. The L benched track continues leaf-littered and seductive all the R way to the Waingaro Forks Hut. In the vicinity of the hut, A iver ro R piles of neatly stacked rocks are all that remain of old gold N ga Tin Hut G ain workings long forgotten, and the bush is slowly swallowing W Shelter them up. E The return along the ridge is just as challenging and as much fun in reverse. Before long you arrive back at the top of the switchback, ready for the downhill and the perfect storm. If you have enough spare energy you may be able to clean all 58 switchbacks. It ends too soon as the long grass arrives suddenly, and you freewheel along the farm track past cows and sheep to the main road. The devil hasn’t finished with you yet though, as you have to cross Satan Creek to head for home. Riordans Hut Waingaro Forks Hut Maps: M26 Cobb, N26 Takaka Distance: 44 km return Climbing: 1820 metres E Grade: 4 N G Notes: Weather can come in rapidly but the track is R A T quick to ride down. There are only two reliable water K E T sources, as mentioned above. The Kahurangi National L O C Park Management Plan is currently under review and will hopefully allow mountain biking as far as Waingaro Forks Hut in the near future. 1200

900 Waingaro Forks 600 Hut metres

300 Uruwhenua Tin Hut Shelter Riordans Hut Road 18 0 0 3 6 9 12 15 18 km