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The Entity of Mughlai Food

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The Entity of Mughlai Food Notion Press Old No. 38, New No. 6 McNichols Road, Chetpet Chennai - 600 031 First Published by Notion Press 2018 Copyright © Izzat Husain 2018 All Rights Reserved. ISBN 978-1-64324-149-4 This book has been published with all reasonable efforts taken to make the material error-free after the consent of the author. No part of this book shall be used, reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. The Author of this book is solely responsible and liable for its content including but not limited to the views, representations, descriptions, statements, information, opinions and references [“Content”]. The Content of this book shall not constitute or be construed or deemed to reflect the opinion or expression of the Publisher or Editor. Neither the Publisher nor Editor endorse or approve the Content of this book or guarantee the reliability, accuracy or completeness of the Content published herein and do not make any representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, including but not limited to the implied warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose. The Publisher and Editor shall not be liable whatsoever for any errors, omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause or claims for loss or damages of any kind, including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage arising out of use, inability to use, or about the reliability, accuracy or sufficiency of the information contained in this book. CONTENTS Foreword vi 33 58 About the Book ix Kawab and Starters Shahi Nahari About Chef Izzat Husain x 34 60 Author’s Note xi Kali March Paneer Tikka Mutton Paya 1 36 62 The Mughlai Cuisine Paneer Ajwain Tikka Mutton Paya 5 38 64 Lakhnawi Mughlai Food Murgh Lakshari Tikka Shahi Mutton Qurma 8 40 66 Secret Reveals Murgh Kofta Bhuna Gosht 13 42 68 The Power of Slow Cooking Tillie Mahi Mutton Roghan Josh 15 44 70 Changes in Cooking Processes Bhuna Jheenga Kali Mirch Stew 17 46 72 Brief on Spices Kalpasi Tikka Handi Gosht 18 48 74 Food Fragrances Patta Kawab Shahi Shami Kabab 21 50 76 Garam Masala Neza Boti Kawab Malai Mutton Chop 22 52 78 Kawab Masala Non-Vegetarian Dishes Khichra 26 53 80 Lucknowi Chat Mutton Kaju Qeema 28 54 82 Dahi Wada Mutton Qurma Chicken Murgh Qurma 30 56 84 Chat Papri Neebu Qurma Murgh Lucknawi Qurma 86 114 142 Murgh Methi Daal (Lentils) Dal Khamsa Baqar Khwani 88 116 144 Joshily Choozey Dudhia Daal Sheermaal 90 118 146 Shahi Murg Musallam Vegetarian Recipes Raita Chutney 92 120 148 Murgh Musallam Chuqander Paneer White Garlic Raita 94 122 149 Fish Saga Mahi Mughlai Sabziyaat White Garlic Sauce 96 124 150 Nariyal Machchi Aalo Band Gohi Green Chutney/Sauce 98 126 151 Biryani and Pulao Paneer Chola Qurma Imli Ki Chutney 100 128 152 Saffron #Dum #Biryani Kaju Palak White Burhan Raita 102 130 153 Mutton Lucknawi Biryani Paneer Qurma White Pineapple Raita 104 132 154 Lakhnawi Murg Dum Biryani Paneer Firoza Sweet Course 106 134 156 Fish Pulao Bread Izzat Ki Roti Chennai Kheer 108 136 158 Nauratan Pulao Khamiri Naan Neembu Halwa 110 138 160 Kaju Biryani Besan Ki Roti Shahi Tukra 112 140 162 Kathal Biryani Ulta Tawa Paratha Photo Gallery THE MUGHLAI CUISINE The Mughlai Cuisine Industry History of Mughlai Food There is no clear evidence as to when cooking was invented. Most stated that cooking was invented as far back as 1.8 million to 2.3 million years ago. Other researchers deem that cooking was invented as late as forty-thousand or ten-thousand years ago. Evidence of fire is inconclusive as wildfire started by lightning- strikes are still common in East Africa and other wild areas, and it is difficult to determine when fire was first used for cooking, as opposed to just being used for warmth or for keeping predators away. Mughlai food was invented for royal families with discrimination. It is medically vigorous food for laborious royal warriors to keep themselves healthy and strong. Every delicious Mughlai cuisine was designed under a team of medicos – the hakims, culinary arts, experts and dietitians. Hence all Mughlai dishes are full of health caring herbs and spices with considering of requisite heat and accurate water, some exclusive tools like ancient hearth (tandoor), earth ovens, large vessels like dough, mahi tawa, domb tawa or ultra tawa, skewers and other tools are also a part of cooking of royal food. Mughlai cuisines are inspired by the trends of Europe, India and originated from Turkey, Baghdad, Iran and some parts of Middle East. Development of Mughlai Cuisine in India and Subcontinents Mughlai gastronomy signifies a collection of Indian cuisines and Persian cuisines, as Mughlai cuisine came from the Middle East in India and subcontinents with Mughals. The Mughals were Muslims so that Islam religion did not allow to eat pork and some other forbidden food like lobster and many types of seafood, while most Indians who were followers of Hindus and other religions did not consume meat. The primary Mughlai non-vegetarian dishes comprise of halal meat such as goat, buff, many types of birds, sheep and fish, etc. The most distinctive features of Mughlai cuisine are the exclusive use of spices, with a combination of prudent consumption of vegetarian dishes, putting whole spices in a dish contributes the distinguishing aroma so that each Mughlai dish has a unique and exotic taste. Izzat Ka Khana Extensive use of milk and milk products like cream and butter with various gravies makeMughlai dishes even more tempting along with controlling acid levels. Also, other different dry fruits, desi ghee and precious spices along with some anti-aging and immune booster food make Mughlai cuisines quite interesting. Although many light versions of food are available in Mughlai food, the rich recipes of Mughlai cuisine draws attention to the epicurean of the world in which Biryani is on top of the list. Royal kitchens of Mughal Empire ongoing by King Babar who initiated the Mughal Empire in India in the 16th century. Babar was also a great epicurean his autobiography ‘Balarama’ contains various food stuff. The different kings of the Delhi Sultanate who ruled multiple regions in India who belonged to Turkey and Afghanistan familiarized some cooking aids also. The Indian cooking use of Tandoor was brought about by cooks from Turkey and Afghanistan. Naan roti, kulcha, and tandoori seekh Kebabs was the Mughal family cuisine since they were in Turkey. When Mughals settled in India, they included Indian spices and other ingredients with the cuisine, these items developed as a fundamental part of the Mughlai Cuisine in India. As the Mughal Empire was speaking their native language, Persian, many of the Mughlai Indian dishes carry names inspired by Persians, Arabic, and lately developed Urdu languages. Mughlai cuisine has a deep influence on culinary arts and styles on regional cuisines in India now, particularly North Indian cuisines like Delhi and Lucknow are the central regions which follow Mughlai cuisine, but Hyderabad being a South-indian city include sour ingredients which made a great significan difference with cuisine. Bangladesh and Pakistan are also chasing the recipes and procedures for cooking with a lot of changes by adding their regional ingredients with Mughlai cuisines. That is the reason why Karachi and Lahore food is entirely different in taste while in Bangladesh, influences Bengali food is more than that of the Mughlai food. Popular Mughlai Dishes Biryani, different types of Kawabs, Murgh Musallam, Rogan Josh, khichra or Haleem are very popular among many other Mughlai cuisines. 2 Chef Izzat Husain Mughlai Food Refines with Royal Kitchen of Lucknow Mughlai food in Lucknow and Awadhi regions originated in the 18th century for Nawabs of Awadh under the command of learned Unani Medicos (Hakeem) along with the most skilled cooks to keep fit and to serve a vital balanced diet. Only the epicureans and sensualist Nawabs and warriors of Awadh are allowed to eat this. Therefore, the royal kitchen was fully supported by the government in Nawabi period; the chef was called “anarchy,” it’s a Persian word, “chi” means an officer and “Bhawar” means rely on. Thus, Bawarchi means a “reliable officer.” Many medicos (Hakeem) were associated with the royal kitchen who were serving food by adding medicinal herbs to food according to the disease and person, very few people know that “Galawati Kawab” and “Qurma” was invented as food medicine. Indeed, Mughlai cooking and recipes were dealing with Lucknow as an art of health then. Hard times for Royal kitchen of Awadh began when Awadh occupied by the East India company and Nawab of Awadh was arrested and sent to Kolkata as a prisoner. Then, Royal kitchen begins to run as per the British rule. Therefore, most royal dishes diminished; chefs and food expert medicos lost their jobs, so they did not document their recipes as they were used to maintaining the trade secrets of recipes and sometimes, their ego also. Mughlai Food at Present in Food Industries Era changed again India got freedom, but the Awadhi food did not have freedom till now. Commercial food industry did not adopt Mughlai cuisine except for some dishes like biryani and kebabs etc. but with considerabl e alteration, alterations took place for cost-cutting and somehow unawareness of the real motive of Mughlai food. They changed a lot with dairy products like desi ghee and milk cream. It changed with vegetable ghee and oil, and saffron changed with artificial color. All these changes were not for betterment but cost-cutting, since Mughlai food is costlier than any other food, and most of the chefs are unaware of essence and health benefits of Mughlai food.
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