Notion Press Old No. 38, New No. 6 McNichols Road, Chetpet Chennai - 600 031

First Published by Notion Press 2018 Copyright © Izzat Husain 2018 All Rights Reserved.

ISBN 978-1-64324-149-4

This book has been published with all reasonable efforts taken to make the material error-free after the consent of the author. No part of this book shall be used, reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

The Author of this book is solely responsible and liable for its content including but not limited to the views, representations, descriptions, statements, information, opinions and references [“Content”]. The Content of this book shall not constitute or be construed or deemed to reflect the opinion or expression of the Publisher or Editor. Neither the Publisher nor Editor endorse or approve the Content of this book or guarantee the reliability, accuracy or completeness of the Content published herein and do not make any representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, including but not limited to the implied warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose. The Publisher and Editor shall not be liable whatsoever for any errors, omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause or claims for loss or damages of any kind, including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage arising out of use, inability to use, or about the reliability, accuracy or sufficiency of the information contained in this book. CONTENTS Foreword vi 33 58 About the Book ix Kawab and Starters Shahi Nahari About Chef Izzat Husain x 34 60 Author’s Note xi Kali March Mutton 1 36 62 The Paneer Ajwain Tikka Mutton Paya 5 38 64 Lakhnawi Mughlai Food Murgh Lakshari Tikka Shahi Mutton Qurma 8 40 66 Secret Reveals Murgh Bhuna 13 42 68 The Power of Slow Cooking Tillie Mahi Mutton Roghan Josh 15 44 70 Changes in Cooking Processes Bhuna Jheenga Kali Mirch 17 46 72 Brief on Kalpasi Tikka Gosht 18 48 74 Food Fragrances Patta Kawab Shahi Shami Kabab 21 50 76 Garam Masala Neza Boti Kawab Malai Mutton Chop 22 52 78 Kawab Masala Non-Vegetarian Dishes Khichra 26 53 80 Lucknowi Chat Mutton Kaju Qeema 28 54 82 Dahi Wada Mutton Qurma Chicken Murgh Qurma 30 56 84 Chat Papri Neebu Qurma Murgh Lucknawi Qurma 86 114 142 Murgh Methi Daal (Lentils) Khamsa Baqar Khwani 88 116 144 Joshily Choozey Dudhia Daal Sheermaal 90 118 146 Shahi Murg Musallam Vegetarian Recipes 92 120 148 Chuqander Paneer White Garlic Raita 94 122 149 Fish Saga Mahi Mughlai Sabziyaat White Garlic Sauce 96 124 150 Nariyal Machchi Aalo Band Gohi Green Chutney/Sauce 98 126 151 and Pulao Paneer Chola Qurma Imli Ki Chutney 100 128 152 #Dum #Biryani Kaju Palak White Burhan Raita 102 130 153 Mutton Lucknawi Biryani Paneer Qurma White Pineapple Raita 104 132 154 Lakhnawi Murg Dum Biryani Paneer Firoza Sweet Course 106 134 156 Fish Pulao Bread Izzat Ki Chennai 108 136 158 Nauratan Pulao Khamiri Neembu Halwa 110 138 160 Kaju Biryani Besan Ki Roti Shahi Tukra 112 140 162 Kathal Biryani Ulta Tawa Photo Gallery

THE MUGHLAI CUISINE

The Mughlai Cuisine Industry

History of Mughlai Food There is no clear evidence as to when cooking was invented. Most stated that cooking was invented as far back as 1.8 million to 2.3 million years ago. Other researchers deem that cooking was invented as late as forty-thousand or ten-thousand years ago. Evidence of fire is inconclusive as wildfire started by lightning- strikes are still common in East Africa and other wild areas, and it is difficult to determine when fire was first used for cooking, as opposed to just being used for warmth or for keeping predators away. Mughlai food was invented for royal families with discrimination. It is medically vigorous food for laborious royal warriors to keep themselves healthy and strong. Every delicious Mughlai cuisine was designed under a team of medicos – the hakims, culinary arts, experts and dietitians. Hence all Mughlai dishes are full of health caring herbs and spices with considering of requisite heat and accurate water, some exclusive tools like ancient hearth (), earth ovens, large vessels like dough, mahi tawa, domb tawa or ultra tawa, and other tools are also a part of cooking of royal food. Mughlai cuisines are inspired by the trends of Europe, India and originated from , Baghdad, Iran and some parts of Middle East.

Development of Mughlai Cuisine in India and Subcontinents Mughlai gastronomy signifies a collection of Indian cuisines and Persian cuisines, as Mughlai cuisine came from the Middle East in India and subcontinents with . The Mughals were so that Islam religion did not allow to eat pork and some other forbidden food like lobster and many types of seafood, while most Indians who were followers of Hindus and other religions did not consume meat. The primary Mughlai non-vegetarian dishes comprise of halal meat such as goat, buff, many types of birds, sheep and fish, etc. The most distinctive features of Mughlai cuisine are the exclusive use of spices, with a combination of prudent consumption of vegetarian dishes, putting whole spices in a dish contributes the distinguishing aroma so that each Mughlai dish has a unique and exotic taste. Izzat Ka Khana

Extensive use of milk and milk products like cream and butter with various gravies makeMughlai dishes even more tempting along with controlling acid levels. Also, other different dry fruits, desi and precious spices along with some anti-aging and immune booster food make Mughlai cuisines quite interesting. Although many light versions of food are available in Mughlai food, the rich recipes of Mughlai cuisine draws attention to the epicurean of the world in which Biryani is on top of the list. Royal kitchens of Empire ongoing by King Babar who initiated the in India in the 16th century. Babar was also a great epicurean his autobiography ‘Balarama’ contains various food stuff. The different kings of the Sultanate who ruled multiple regions in India who belonged to Turkey and Afghanistan familiarized some cooking aids also. The Indian cooking use of Tandoor was brought about by cooks from Turkey and Afghanistan. Naan roti, , and tandoori seekh was the Mughal family cuisine since they were in Turkey. When Mughals settled in India, they included Indian spices and other ingredients with the cuisine, these items developed as a fundamental part of the Mughlai Cuisine in India. As the Mughal Empire was speaking their native language, Persian, many of the Mughlai Indian dishes carry names inspired by , Arabic, and lately developed languages. Mughlai cuisine has a deep influence on culinary arts and styles on regional cuisines in India now, particularly North Indian cuisines like Delhi and are the central regions which follow Mughlai cuisine, but being a South-indian city include sour ingredients which made a great significan difference with cuisine. and are also chasing the recipes and procedures for cooking with a lot of changes by adding their regional ingredients with Mughlai cuisines. That is the reason why and Lahore food is entirely different in taste while in Bangladesh, influences Bengali food is more than that of the Mughlai food.

Popular Mughlai Dishes Biryani, different types of Kawabs, Murgh Musallam, , khichra or are very popular among many other Mughlai cuisines.

2 Chef Izzat Husain

Mughlai Food Refines with Royal Kitchen of Lucknow Mughlai food in Lucknow and Awadhi regions originated in the 18th century for of under the command of learned Unani Medicos (Hakeem) along with the most skilled cooks to keep fit and to serve a vital balanced diet. Only the epicureans and sensualist Nawabs and warriors of Awadh are allowed to eat this. Therefore, the royal kitchen was fully supported by the government in Nawabi period; the chef was called “anarchy,” it’s a Persian word, “chi” means an officer and “Bhawar” means rely on. Thus, Bawarchi means a “reliable officer.” Many medicos (Hakeem) were associated with the royal kitchen who were serving food by adding medicinal herbs to food according to the disease and person, very few people know that “Galawati Kawab” and “Qurma” was invented as food medicine. Indeed, Mughlai cooking and recipes were dealing with Lucknow as an art of health then. Hard times for Royal kitchen of Awadh began when Awadh occupied by the East India company and of Awadh was arrested and sent to Kolkata as a prisoner. Then, Royal kitchen begins to run as per the British rule. Therefore, most royal dishes diminished; chefs and food expert medicos lost their jobs, so they did not document their recipes as they were used to maintaining the trade secrets of recipes and sometimes, their ego also.

Mughlai Food at Present in Food Industries Era changed again India got freedom, but the Awadhi food did not have freedom till now. Commercial food industry did not adopt Mughlai cuisine except for some dishes like biryani and kebabs etc. but with considerabl e alteration, alterations took place for cost-cutting and somehow unawareness of the real motive of Mughlai food. They changed a lot with dairy products like desi ghee and milk cream. It changed with vegetable ghee and oil, and saffron changed with artificial color. All these changes were not for betterment but cost-cutting, since Mughlai food is costlier than any other food, and most of the chefs are unaware of essence and health benefits of Mughlai food.

3 Izzat Ka Khana

The Entity of Mughlai Food Mughlai food is real human food, and it is the healthiest food in the world that cares for the entire human body, all senses, brain, and taste buds. It was customized for sessions, environments, working conditions of groups or person to person as per their health condition. The primary motive was to provide to strengthen the metabolic and immune system of the human body so they can survive in all-weather conditions. Along with a pleasant mood, that’s the reason why food fragrances are frequently using with Lucknow Mughlai cuisine. As per observation, people who eat Mughlai dishes eat healthier as compared to many other people.

Mughlai Food Has Its Own Manner of Serving Food The food was served in a sitting row “Dastarkhwan” first, before a person moves with the row to wash hand over the dastaar (cloth) Khwan (Tray).

The Manner and Sequence of Serving Food Are Serve soft drink/desert: , light sweet dish, etc. Serve starters: Kawabs, roasted chicken, barbecue, etc. Serve main course: Qurma stew etc. Bread: Chapatti and sheermaal etc. Rice and biryani: Biryani and rice etc. Another dessert: Mutanjan and and other desserts etc. And finally mouth fresheners: fennel and paan etc.

4 LAKHNAWI MUGHLAI FOOD

Lucknow is known for its Nawabi legacy, architectural brilliance, and its royal food. Nawabs have been famous for their sophistication and humble behavior. Nawabi sophistication reflects in their lifestyle, Urdu conversations and above all, in their cuisine. Lucknowi cuisine has been recognised as a perfect epicurean for every food enthusiast. Food was a passion of Lucknow culture and was highly patronized by the nawabs. Lukhnawi cuisine is not only based on Mughlai trends but is also inclined towards Mughlai food which is ornamented with royal touch and medicinal prospects here. Each royal cuisine has been curated by the royal chefs and herbal medicos. Each Royal dish of Lucknow is very sophisticated, soft to eat, attractive to eye holding a quintessence aroma and above all very energetic and immune booster because of its therapeutic touch. Lakhnawi cuisine can please any vegetarian and non-vegetarian epicurean with a wide range of its paired dishes like -kulcha, Qurma-RumaliRoti, Kawab-Paratha, sheermaal-Kawab, Pulao-zarda, Warqi Paratha-ghute Kawab and nahari-Roti, etc. Mutanjan, Kheer, ShhiTukra, Zarda, Muzafar and many types of halwas are famous deserts of Lucknow. Similarly, Lucknow has a wide range of vegetarian food also to placate taste buds of vegetarian foodies like Aloo-, -Aloo, Kaddu Ki Sabzi-Puri, Khasta-Aloo, Matar Pulao, Methi Pulao, Mewa Pulao and the frozen dessert. Lucknow is an originator of and malaimakkhan. The other famous desserts are; Baalai, khurchan, QalaQand, dudh-ki burfi, malai-giloree, kheer feerni, gulabjamoon, etc. Lucknawi stands as one of the best chaat in the world. , GoolGappy, Dahiwada, papri- matar are mouth-watering chat which is a common delight on various streets of the city. Kawabs of Lucknow have been crowned for its variants all over the world. For its unmatched softness, seek kebabs are famous as Kakori Kawab on the same end of the chord, mahi-tawa Kawab is known as galawati Kawab, boti Kawabs are one common taste that delights everyone, but they have been turned down from the menu of most restaurants for the sake of cost-cutting. Izzat Ka Khana

The well-known Nihari originated in Lucknow during the construction of Rumi Gate; It was invented for labourers who worked for construction in huge numbers. A vital food was required for workers, then some Bawarchis, the Chefs, and Hakeems, the medicos decided to cook the dish with the whole buff in a large vessel prepared overnight with some energetic spices and herbs. A whole buff cooked in a large dek and was served with tandoori roti. All the workers were served in the Morning. Nehar is an Arabic word which means “Morning” therefore it got its term “Nahari.” When the taste and other benefits of Nahari got popular widely among officials including the king, who turned a fan of Nahari himself. Then he ordered Nahari for his royal kitchen. Later, Nahari was placed in the menu of royal kitchen moderating with a lot of improvements, which was later turned into “Shahi-Nahari.” Apparently, Delhi and Lahore were also administrative cities that time. Nehari also toured these cities, and it was stretched to the world of Urdu speaking nations. One can easily observe its popularity among the restaurants of Lucknow along with the double layered crispy Kulcha.

Blending of Food Lucknowi food is one of the finest cuisines in the world due to the usage of many aromatic, beneficial herbs and exotic essential spices like saffron, , , etc. These ingredients contribute a different flavor and antioxidant vitality to Lakhnawi cuisine. Cooking Lukhnawi cuisine is a great skill that could be acquired by rigorous practice and balance. But the culinary skills of Lakhnawi cuisine are diminishing day by day because of many reasons:

• Mal publicity about the cooking is that Mughlai food is heavy food and a burden to the stomach. On the contrary, this is the world’s lightest food if it is cooked with basic balance of spices as per every individual dish. • The cost controlling or cost-cutting methods by eating in houses and hotels. • Culinary arts not supported by Governments or Industrialists. • Hotel Management institutes are not interested; they promote foreign food rather than Indian skills of cooking.

6 Chef Izzat Husain

Meanwhile, Mughlai food ingredients were changed due to cutting costs and lack of knowledge, saffron was replaced with artificial color; desi ghee changed with vegetable ghee or cooking oils, precious spices like green cardamom and quantity where reduced, even Kewra water the food fragrance was a change for synthetic kewra essence. Hence, the taste and its medicinal values have been completely changed for the worst. Here I would like to share some authentic recipes famous Lukhnawi Mughlai cuisine from the Royal kitchen with my twist to make dishes digestive and healthy. Please follow these recipes.

7 SECRET REVEALS

Secret Revealed I have been passionate about food since childhood; it became my hobby to learn all about food, it was a tough journey to master the skills of cooking. I spent several years researching about the diminishing authentic recipes of the Mughlai Awadhi & Lakhnawi cuisine During this journey of exploration, I got a lot of resistance from people. They refused to share their recipes or techniques, merely replying, “This is a secret of my ancestors, I will not share my recipes with you.” I was determined to learn and refused to give up on gaining this knowledge on mastering the art of various cuisines. True to my determination, I was very fortunate, my break-through in gaining respect and confidence of many old cooks, cooking housewives and foodies of Royal families, have taught me many cooking formulas, techniques, and procedures. I believe in sharing knowledge. I wrote this book to spread the awareness of Mughlai cuisines across the globe as a food enthusiast, and also about cooking spices, techniques, and procedures and whatever I learnt. I readily shared recipes via my TV Shows, and during training which I have provided from time to time in this recipe book also. I would like to disclose some mysteries about Mughlai cooking, for those foodie friends and others, who share this passion of cooking like I do.

Garam Masala Garam is an Urdu word, and it means hot, but infact it is the main ingredient or main of any dish. Some think it is to make a meal spicy; it is the primary flavoring spice of all meals. Many cooks have their own preferences of the main spice for every dish, according to meat, poultry, lentils or vegetables, etc. Garam masala has always been a top-secret spice for every cook. There is a huge variety of garam masala components in the market. The choices of these spices vary from chef to chef, each find his secret blend of spices which is referred to as garam masala. Chef Izzat Husain

In this book, I have shared with you the ideal formula of Garam masala which is standard and common for all your vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Do not pre-roast spices if you are grinding in an electric grinder. Mace has a very bitter taste, and it will cause your dish to have a bitter taste. It’s best not to grind this spice with any other spices. Mace should be used whole in your dishes and removed before serving.

Nahari Masala and Kawab Masala It is almost the same compounds, for Kawabs, but for Nahari masala, the fennel must be added, the ratio of fennel must be one to two spoons per kilogram of your main ingredients, i.e., mutton or buff. Tendering of Mutton without water: all meat has its own moisture. That is why cooking meat on slow fire can easily tenderise meat without water. To soften your meat dishes, marinate with vinegar or lemon juice for thirty minutes or more. Tenderising of Mutton for “Galawati Kawab”: The secret of Galawati Kawab is nothing but melt in the mouth taste of mutton or buff which came from its tenderised quality. Raw papaya is a good tenderiser. This is a question many people are asking, what is the quantity of papaya used to tenderise? Can papaya be used with skin or without skin? The answers are, small raw papaya is much better than a large papaya to tenderise. Hundred grams of papaya paste could be a better ratio for one kilogram buff and seventy-five grams of papaya may be enough for lamb meat. Raw or green figs are better than papaya, Five to seven green tight figs are enough for a kilogram meat. Chemical tenderisers may destroy the taste of Kawabs.

Which Part of the Goat Should Be Used with Which Dish? The portion of the goat should be chosen according to dish whatever you are going to prepare, See the leg portion is attractive, it looks bulky with mutton, but it has thick fibres if you cook the leg portion in

9 Izzat Ka Khana biry+ani it will not be nice to eat. Same as if one use chest portion with “Naharis” Then all of the mutton will melt and certainly “Naharis” will taste like simple only and without succulent pieces. For best results, it is very important to select the right portion of a goat. You must also choose a lamb or a kid goat rather than aged goat. Thus, choose a portion of the goat as per the dish to cook your dish tasteful and presentable. Naharis: Rear leg (Rann) Biryani: front leg and chest combined. Stew: front leg and chops from the chest. Kebabs: Rear leg Qurma: chest and back which is called putt For fried and tandoori: chest and back.

How to Differentiate Meat of Different Animals?

Meat Naked eyes Touch feel Cooked Smell pink to red white Soft, semi-solid Goat and lamb Soft, Copious, oily Normal fat bones white meat, Soft, delicate Chicken Soft/lose Normal yellow fat bones , thick Semi-hard, hard Buff & Hard, bulky Normal to odour fibre, white fat bones Fish Red Very soft Soft n silky Odour

Tuna Fish White Hard to soft Soft Normal to Odour

Other birds White soft soft Normal to odour

10 LUCKNOWI CHAT Aloo Tikki

Ingredients

½ kg Boiled and mashed potatoes 50 grams Green peas pre-boiled 1 spoon cumin powder 1 tea spoon yellow chilli powder To taste salt 1 tea spoon chat masala 50 grams corn flour Desi ghee to fry Imli ki chutney paste

Method

Mash boiled potatoes with some salt and corn flour. Mash green peas for filling in side putting with cumin powder, chilli powder salt and some chat masala. Take some potato, mash it on your palm, flatten it, and put some pea mash on it, close it, make a ball and press slightly to make tikka. Dust this tikki with corn flour, your tikki is ready to fry. Fry in a non-stick pan putting with desi ghee on medium fire till it gets brown from both sides.

26 Serving aloo tikki Serve on plate pour imli ki chutney than sprinkle cumin powder, chilli powder salt and some chaat masala. Now pour curd, paste and serve.

27 DAHI WADA

Ingredients

½ kg split black lentil (urad daal) without flak 1 tea spoon ginger powder 1 tea spoon coriander powder 1 tea spoon cumin powder 1 tea spoon black pepper powder 1 tea spoon yellow chilli powder To taste salt 1 tea spoon chat masala 50 grams refined flour (maida) Oil to deep fry Garnish: Imli ki chutney, Curd paste, coriander leaves.

Method

Split black lentils (urad daal). Soak for thirty minutes and with salt. Grind to make semi-solid paste. Add corn flour, and the rest of the spices mix well together. Make small balls and put in hot oil to deep fry on low heat. Take out from oil when these balls get semi brown and put directly in a bowl of water. After fifteen minutes, take out from water and squeeze all water from balls carefully.

28 Serving dahi wada Put squeezed balls on a plate, pour imli ki chutney and sprinkle some cumin powder, chilli powder rock salt and chaat masala to taste. Now pour curd paste and serve. Coriander or mint leaves will make the platter good looking.

29 CHAT PAPRI

Ingredients

How to make dough ½ kg flour (maida) 1 tea spoon ginger powder 1 tea spoon cumin powder ½ tea spoon black pepper powder To taste salt 100 grams butter melted ½ tea spoon carom seeds ½ tea spoon baking powder 50 grams r efined flour (maida) for dusting

Method

Mix them and make tight dough adding with some water. Make small balls of dough. Make flat to small dough balls like roti and wrap it in a triangle.

Method to fry Oil to deep fry

Method Put in hot oil to deep fry on very low heat. Take out from oil when papri gets semi brown.

30 Serving chat papri Serve with crushing on a plate or as a whole papri. Pour imli ki chutney and sprinkle some cumin powder, chili powder rock salt and chaat masala to taste. Now pour curd paste and serve. Coriander or mint leaves and chickpeas can be used to make a good- looking platter.

31

KAWAB AND STARTERS

I’m sharing here some of my starters which are healthy to eat, loved by my many foodie friends, very delicious and easy to digest as I’m using different types of vinegars in my tikkas instead of curd or yoghurt, these starters will increase your appetite. Medically curd or yoghurt should not be used for cooking because it has lacto basil worthy bacteria with it, cooking curd or yoghurt means to kill those good bacteria which are naturally good in our digestive system. Yoghurt might cause indigestion on heating so I always avoid cooking with curd. Curd/yoghurt are good to take in cold or in room temperature. Now try these tikkas and make your starters healthy and digestive with pleasant aroma and delightful taste. Enjoyed reading this sample?

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