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D e l h i

Why Go? 1 ...... 60 Medieval mayhem, the New , stately maiden aunt: give 2 Sights ...... 62 it a chance and this schizophrenic could capture your C Activities ...... 77 heart. Yes, it’s aggravating, polluted and hectic, but hey – nobody’s perfect. T Courses ...... 78 Like a subcontinental Rome, India’s capital is punctuated 4 Tours ...... 79 by vestiges of lost empires: ancient forts freckle the sub- 4 Sleeping ...... 81 urbs; Old was once the capital of Islamic India; the 5 Eating ...... 86 British built , with its exaggerated avenues; and 6 Drinking ...... 92 even-newer Delhi features utopian malls linked by potholed 3 Entertainment ...... 94 roads. These disparate, codependent elements are all now 7 Shopping ...... 94 gloriously intertwined via the new metro system. Greater Delhi ...... 102 There are also magnifi cent museums, temples, , and a busy cultural scene – and shopaholics, you are home: all the riches of India twinkle in Delhi’s emporiums. Prepare yourself to tuck into some of the subcontinent’s fi nest food, including the famous Dilli-ka-Chaatt (Delhi street Best Places to Eat food) – which, rather like the city itself, jumbles up every fl avour in one bite. » Saravana Bhavan (p 89 ) » Bukhara (p 90 ) When to Go » Indian Accent (p 92 ) Delhi » Monsoon (p 90 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Olive (p 92 ) 40/104 32/800

» Gunpowder (p 91 ) 24/600 20/68 » Rajdhani (p 89 ) 16/400

0/32 Best Places to Stay 8/200 » Shanti Home (p 85 ) -20/-4 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM » Devna (p 86 ) » Bnineteen (p 86 ) Oct–Mar Delhi May–Aug These Jun–Sep Mon- » Cottage Yes Please (p 83 ) at its best – the are the months soon season weather is bright to avoid – it’s hot (heaviest from and sunny but not and humid. July to Septem- too hot. ber) is also worth avoiding if you can.

Top Tips MAIN POINTS OF 57 ENTRY » Ensure your taxi or autorickshaw driver has taken you to the hotel/shop you requested, as some try to offload pas- Inter- sengers at places where they receive commission. national , New » Decline offers from taxi or auto drivers to take you to Delhi train station, Old hotels/shops of their choice. Delhi train station, and the Inter State Bus » Avoid chatty young men who hang around touristy spots, Terminal (ISBT). some of whom claim humbly to be students wanting to improve their English. » Don’t believe the helpful chaps who try to direct you to a ‘tourist office’ around Connaught Place. There is only one Fast Facts tourist office, at 88 Janpath. » Population: 12.8 million » Carry small denominations (below ₹50) as drivers often » Area: 1483 sq km have a lack of change. » Area code: %011 » Ignore touts who surreptitiously dirty your shoe and offer » Main languages: to clean it at a price. and English » Sleeping prices: DON’T MISS $ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹5000, $$$ above One of Delhi’s most mystical and atmospheric experi- ₹5000 ences is to hear qawwali singers and musicians perform devotional songs at the Hazrat Nizam-ud-din . This is a beautiful Islamic holy shrine, where song per- Planning Your formances take place after sunset prayers on Thursday. Trip The air is thick with incense and the shrine thronged » Book accommodation with pilgrims. ahead at http://hotels. lonelyplanet.com » Call your hotel to con- Delhi’s Top Festivals firm the day before you arrive » To check dates contact India Tourism Delhi (p98 ). » Book train tickets for » Delhi celebrates Diwali and Dussehra (Durga Puja) with longer journeys at least particular verve. a week ahead on www. » (26 Jan, , p 71 ) Incorporates a indianrail.gov.in spectacular military parade. » Beating of the Retreat (29 Jan, Rajpath, p71 ) The closing R e s o u r c e s of the Republic Day celebrations is marked by the Beating of the Retreat – more military pageantry. Tickets are essen- » Delhi Tourism (http:// tial for both events and are available at India delhitourism.nic.in/delhi Tourism Delhi. tourism/index.jsp) lists » (15 Aug, Red Fort, p62 ) India cel- government-rated home- ebrates its Independence from Britain in 1947 and the prime stays and recommended minister addresses the nation from the Red Fort ramparts. tourist agencies. » Festival (Oct/Nov, , p102 ) Held over » A free AA map is avail- several days, featuring Sufi singing and classical dance able in many places but, performances. for street-by-street detail, Delhi newsstands sell the » Delhi International Arts Festival (DIAF, Dec) Three weeks excellent 245-page Eicher of exhibitions, performing arts, films, literature and culinary City Map (₹340). events at Delhi-wide venues.

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The Naubat Khana (Drum House) is in carved Naubat Khana Naubat designs and featured playing musicians in the upper gallery. It housed Hathi Pol Gate), (Elephant where visitors dis- mounted from their elephant. or horse

ABIGAIL HOLE rst rst À ag of independent Á cant, as it was here that À Jawaharlal raised the the raised Jawaharlal Gate Lahore Lahore Gate is particularly signi tricolour tricolour India in 1947. Salimgarh Salimgarh is the 16th-century fort built by Salim Shah Sur. It was constructed on an island of the River and only recently opened to the public. It is still partly used by the army. Indian

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» TOP TIPS TOP Walk through the Chatta Chowk » late in the day; avoid weekends and weekends avoid in the day; late public holidays. Red Fort is by night; you can visit can night; you is by Fort Red the nightly attend dark if you after Show. Sound-&-Light

HIGHLIGHTS to the island fortress Salimgarh of road, then a railway bridge – brings you Another Another

south is the Mumtaz Mahal it lies Naubat Khana and jewellery to the nobility; beyond (Covered Bazaar), which oncesold silks bullet marks from 1857 the on gate. for increased security. can You still see in front of it was built by Aurangzeb the (Pearl ) to the highest o expensive building, wasonly permitted Hall of Private Audiences, the fort’s most

British barracks. you’llHere are dotted by palatial pavilions and old head north, where the Red Fort gardens the Museum of Archaeology, or you can baoli

straight on to theDiwan-i-Am here as a sign of respect. From here it’s dismount from their elephants or horses (Elephant because Gate) visitors used to the private palaces, the Khas Mahal building, also known as Hathi Pol Hall of Public Audiences. Behind this are

through Lahore Gate The main entrance to the Red Fort is

Red Fort Red and the Diwan-i-Khas ABIGAIL HOLE KIMBERLEY COOLE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Baoli The Red Fort step well is seldom visited and is a hauntingly deserted place, even more so when you consider its chambers were used as cells by the British from August 1942. Moti Masjid The Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) was built by Aurangzeb in 1662 for his personal use. The were originally covered in copper, but the Diwan-i-Khas copper was removed and sold by the British. This was the most expensive building in the fort, Baidon Hammam consisting of white marble decorated with inlay Pavilion work of cornelian and other stones. The screens overlooking what was once the river (now the ring road) were À lled with coloured glass. Rang Mahal

Mumtaz Mahal

Pit Stop To refuel, head to Paratha Gali Wali, a food- stall-lined lane oՖ noted for its many va- rieties of freshly made paratha (traditional Á at bread).

NORTH Delhi Gate

Diwan-i-Am These red sandstone columns were once covered in shell plaster, as polished Khas Mahal and smooth as ivory, and in hot weather heavy red curtains were hung around Most spectacular in the Emperor’s private the columns to block out the sun. It's believed the panels behind the marble apartments is a beautiful marble screen at the throne were created by Florentine jeweller Austin de Bordeaux. northern end of the rooms; the ‘Scales of Justice’ are carved above it, suspended over a crescent, surrounded by stars and clouds. ABIGAIL HOLE ABIGAIL HOLE 62 DELHI IN…

Two Days Acclimatise gently at tranquil sites, such as the National Museum (p70 ), Gandhi Smriti (p 73 ) and Humayun’s Tomb (p 67 ). In the evening head to Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah (p69 ) to hear the Sufi s sing qawwalis. DELHI On day two, ramble around Old Delhi’s Red Fort (p62 ), then scoff jalebis (fried sweet ‘squiggles’), launch into the old city’s action-packed (p95 ) and visit the mighty Jama Masjid (p 66 ). Afterwards, grab an autorickshaw south to Connaught Place (p75 ) for a bite to eat (p89 ) and to explore the hassle-free, treasure-trove government emporiums (p95 ). Four Days Follow the itinerary above, then on the third day wander around Qutb Minar (p 102 ) and Mehrauli (p 103 ) before indulging in some quiet meditation at the Bahai House of Worship (p 75 ). In the evening, watch the mesmerising Dances of India (p 94 ), then kick back at a bar (p 92 ). On day four, wonder at the glories in the laid-back Crafts Museum (p 70 ) and nearby (p 73 ). Then head to Hauz Khas (p 77 ) to wander around the forgotten tank and mausoleum, and browse in its boutiques.

History 1 Sights Delhi hasn’t always been India’s capital but, Most sights in Delhi are easily accessible via as a gateway city, it has long played a pivotal metro. Note that many places are closed on role. It was built on the plains near a ford- Monday. ing point on the Yamuna River, and on the route between western and Central Asia and O L D D E L H I Southeast Asia. It’s believed to be the site of Medieval-seeming Old Delhi is a crazy hub- the fabled city of Indraprastha, which fea- bub that bombards the senses. Set aside at tured in the Mahabharata more than 3000 least half a day to do this fascinating area years ago, but historical evidence suggests justice. All of the following attractions fea- that the area has been settled for a mere ture on Map p64 . 2500 years. Red Fort (Lal Qila) FORT At least eight known cities have been founded here. The fi rst four cities of Delhi (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250, video ₹25, combined h m were to the south, around the area where museum ticket ₹5; 9am-6pm Tue-Sun; Chandni Chowk) This massive fort is a sandstone shad- the Qutb Minar now stands. The fi fth ow of its former self; but it’s the best place in Delhi, Firozabad, was at Firoz Shah Kotla, Delhi to imagine the Mughal city’s sometime while Emperor Sher Shah created the sixth splendour. It dates from the peak of the dy- at Purana Qila (both in present-day New nasty’s power, a time of unparalleled pomp: of Delhi). The Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, eunuchs, ceremonial elephants, palanquins, constructed the seventh Delhi in the 17th and buildings lined with precious stones. century; his Shahjahanabad roughly corre- The walls of the fort extend for 2km and sponds to Old Delhi today. In 1911, the Brit- vary in height from 18m on the river side to ish announced the shifting of their capital 33m on the city side. Shah Jahan construct- from (Calcutta) and proceeded to ed the fort between 1638 and 1648, but never build New Delhi, which was inaugurated completely moved his capital from Agra to in 1931. Only 16 years later, the British were his new city of Shahjahanabad, because he out, and Delhi became the capital of an in- was deposed and imprisoned in by dependent India. his son Aurangzeb. Since Independence, the capital has pros- Mughal reign from Delhi was short; Au- pered. The downside of this boom is chronic rangzeb was the fi rst and last great Mughal overcrowding, housing shortages, pollution, emperor to rule from here. Subsequent rulers, traffi c congestion, and ever more extreme sapped by civil war, were unable to maintain contrasts between rich and poor. the fort properly, and slums within the walls were thronged with impoverished imperial descendants. By the 19th century it was al- rooms were illuminated through stained- ready much dilapidated. Following the 1857 glass roof panels. 63 First War of Independence, the British cleared all but the most important buildings to make Shahi Burj way for ugly barracks and army offi ces. This modest, three-storey, octagonal tower The 10m-deep moat, which has been dry to the northeastern edge of the fort was once since 1857, was originally crossed on creaky Shah Jahan’s private working area. From wooden drawbridges, replaced with stone here, cooling water, known as the nahr-i- DELHI bridges in 1811. bihisht (river of paradise), used to fl ow south SIGHTS Since Independence many landmark po- through the Royal Baths, the Diwan-i-Khas, the Khas Mahal and on to the Rang Mahal. litical speeches have taken place at the fort, SIGHTS and every year on Independence Day (15 Au- Moti Masjid gust) it hosts the prime minister’s address The small, enclosed, marble Pearl Mosque

to the nation. is next to the baths. Its outer walls are ori- ented exactly in symmetry with the rest of Lahore Gate The fort’s main gate is so named because it the fort, while the inner walls are slightly faces towards Lahore, now in Pakistan. The askew, so that the mosque is correctly orien- gate is a potent symbol of modern India: tated to Mecca. during the fi ght for Independence, there was Other Features a nationalist aspiration to see the Indian fl ag The Khas Mahal, south of the Diwan-i- fl ying over the gate – a dream that became Khas, was the emperor’s private palace. It reality in 1947. was divided into rooms for worship, sleep- You enter the fort through here and im- ing and living, with carved walls and paint- mediately fi nd yourself in the vaulted ar- ed ceilings. cade known as the Chatta Chowk (Covered The Rang Mahal (Palace of Colour), fur- Bazaar). The tourist-trap arcade once sold ther south again, took its name from its viv- rather more exclusive items to the royal idly painted interior, now long gone. This household – silks, jewellery and gold. was the residence of the emperor’s chief wife The arcade leads to the Naubat Khana and is where he dined. On the fl oor in the (Drum House), where musicians used to centre there’s an exquisitely carved marble perform. There’s an Indian lotus; the water fl owing along the channel Museum upstairs, full of fearsome weap- from the Shahi Burj would end up here. onry and phallic shells. Relics from the Mughal era are displayed at the in the Diwan-i-Am Museum of Archaeology In the Hall of Public Audiences the em- Mumtaz Mahal, once the women’s quarters, peror would hear disputes from his subjects. still further south along the eastern wall. In Many of the precious stones set above the one of the British-built barracks there’s also emperor’s throne were looted following the the interesting Museum of India’s Strug- First War of Independence. The hall was re- gle for Freedom, with some dramatic life- stored following a directive by Lord Curzon, size dioramas, the of India between 1898 and 1905. It’s worth seeking out the deserted baoli (step well). A short walk away is Salimgarh Diwan-i-Khas (h10am-5pm) built by Salim Shah Suri in The white marble Hall of Private Audi- 1546. Few visitors make it over here to see ences was the luxurious chamber where the the ruined mosque and broad, much restored emperor would hold private meetings. The walls – it’s still partly occupied by the Indi- centrepiece was once the magnifi cent solid- an army and was only opened to the public gold and jewel-studded Peacock Throne, in 2008. looted from India by Persia’s Nadir Shah The old walled city of Shahjahanabad in 1739. In 1760 the Marathas removed the stretches west from the Red Fort. It was at hall’s silver ceiling. one time surrounded by a sturdy defensive wall, only fragments of which now exist. Royal Baths Next to the Diwan-i-Khas are the hammams The Kashmiri Gate, to the north, was the (baths) – three large rooms surmounted by scene of desperate fi ghting when the British domes, with a fountain in the centre – one of retook Delhi during the 1857 First War of which was set up as a sauna. The fl oors were Independence. once inlaid with more pietra dura and the Old Delhi 64 A B C D

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DELHI 1 Pillar ...... H6 35 Angan ...... A4 2 Bird Hospital ...... F3 36 Ashok & Ashok ...... C3 3 Chattak Chowk ...... G3 37 Bade Mian's ...... E4

4 Digambara ...... F3 38 Bikanerwala ...... E3 5 Diwan-i-Am ...... G3 Chor Bizarre ...... (see 30) 6 Diwan-i-Khas...... G3 ...... (see 45) 7 Fatehpuri Masjid...... E3 39 Haldiram's...... F3 8 Indian War Memorial Museum ...... G3 40 Jalebiwala ...... F3 9 Kashmiri Gate ...... F1 Karim's...... (see 34) 10 Khas Mahal...... G3 41 Kuremal Ice Cream Shop ...... E5 11 Kotla Firoz Shah ...... H6 42 Moinuddin...... E4 12 Lahore Gate ...... G3 43 Moti Mahal ...... G5 13 Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Birla 44 Nathu's...... F7 Mandir)...... A7 45 Paratha Wali Gali...... F3 14 Moti Masjid...... G3 46 Roshan di Kulfi...... A4 15 Mumtaz Mahal...... G3 Museum of Archaeology...... (see 15) ý Entertainment 16 Museum of India's Struggle for 47 Dances of India...... G6 Freedom ...... G3 17 National Gandhi Museum ...... H6 þ Shopping Naubat Khana...... (see 8) 48 Chowri Bazaar...... E4 18 Nicholson Cemetery...... E1 49 Cloth Market...... E2 19 Raj Ghat...... H5 Dariba Kalan ...... (see 40) 20 Rang Mahal ...... G3 50 Daryaganj Book Market...... G5 21 Red Fort Ticket Kiosk...... G3 51 Delhi Musical Stores ...... F4 22 Royal Baths...... G3 52 Market ...... A4 23 Salimgarh...... G2 53 Kinari Bazaar ...... F3 24 Shahi Burj...... G3 54 Lajpat Rai Market...... F3 25 Shankar's International Dolls 55 Nai Sarak...... F4 Museum...... G7 56 New Gramophone House ...... F3 26 Shanti Vana...... H4 Roopak's ...... (see 52) 27 Sunehri Masjid...... G4 57 Spice Market ...... D3

ÿ Sleeping Transport 28 Ginger ...... E5 58 Inter State Bus Terminal ...... F1 29 Hotel Bombay Orient ...... F4 59 Jhandewalan Cycle Market ...... A5 30 Hotel Broadway ...... G5 60 Lalli Motorbike Exports...... A4 31 Hotel New City Palace...... F4

Sound-&-Light Show oJama Masjid MOSQUE Each evening (except Monday) this one- (camera, video each ₹200; tower ₹100; hour show (admission ₹60; hin English 7.30pm hnon-Muslims 8am-½hr before sunset, Nov-Jan, 9pm May-Aug, 8.30pm rest of yr) gives 9am-5.30pm; mChandni Chowk) India’s largest Red Fort history the coloured-spotlight and mosque can hold a mind-blowing 25,000 portentous-voice-over treatment. It’s great people. Towering over Old Delhi, the ‘Friday to see the fort by night, though the history Mosque’ was Shah Jahan’s fi nal architectural lesson is a tad ponderous. Tickets are avail- opus, built between 1644 and 1658. It has able from the fort’s ticket kiosk. Bring mos- three gateways, four angle towers and two quito repellent. standing 40m high, and is con- structed of alternating vertical strips of red Raj Ghat sandstone and white marble. You can enter South of the Red Fort, on the banks of the 67 from gate 1 or 3. Yamuna River, a simple square platform of For an extra charge you can climb the black marble marks the spot where Mahat- narrow southern minaret (notices say that ma Gandhi was cremated following his as- unaccompanied women are not permitted), sassination in 1948. It’s inscribed with what up 121 steps, for incredible views. From the are said to have been his fi nal words, ‘Hai

top of the minaret, you can see one of the Ram’ (Oh, God), and has a hushed, peaceful DELHI features that architect incor- atmosphere, set amid tranquil lawns. SIGHTS porated into his design of New Delhi – the , the fi rst Indian prime

Jama Masjid, Connaught Place and Sansad minister, was cremated just to the north, SIGHTS Bhavan (Parliament House) are in a direct at Shanti Vana (Forest of Peace), in 1964. line. Nehru’s daughter, Indira Gandhi, who was

Visitors should remove their shoes at the assassinated in 1984, and grandsons Sanjay top of the stairs. There’s no charge to enter (who died in 1980) and Rajiv (assassinated the mosque, but you’ll have to pay the cam- in 1991) were also cremated in this vicinity. era charge whether you want to use your camera or not. Nicholson Cemetery CEMETERY (9am-5pm) Close to the Kashmiri Gate is Chandni Chowk AREA this 3-hectare forgotten corner of Delhi. It’s Old Delhi’s backbone is the madcap Chandni named after John Nicholson, who died in Chowk or ‘moonlight place’, a wide avenue 1857 and is buried here amid a sea of British thronged by crowds, hawkers and rickshaws. graves that hint at fascinating stories. At the In the time of Shah Jahan, a canal ran down time he was described as the ‘Hero of Delhi’ its centre, lined by peepal and neem trees – but author William Dalrymple calls him an at night the waters refl ected the moon, hence ‘imperial psychopath’ in . the name. Tiny bazaar-crammed lanes snake Northwest of here is the British-erected Mu- off the broadway like clogged arteries. At the tiny Memorial, dedicated to the soldiers eastern (Red Fort) end of Chandni Chowk, who died during the First War of Indepen- there’s the 16th-century Digambara Jain dance. Near the monument is an Ashoka Temple (h5am-noon & 6-9pm) (remove shoes Pillar; like the one in Firoz Shah Kotla, it and leather before entering). The fascinating was brought here by Firoz Shah. bird hospital (donations appreciated; h8am- National Gandhi Museum MUSEUM 9pm) here was founded in 1939 and is run by F(%23311793; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) the Jains, who believe in the preservation of Contains photos and some of Gandhi’s all life. Only vegetarian birds are admitted, belongings. though carnivores are treated as outpatients. The upstairs pigeons’ section brings to mind NEW DELHI & AROUND Hitchcock’s The Birds. All of the attractions in this section feature The western end of Chandni Chowk is on Map p68 . marked by the mid-17th-century Fatehpuri Humayun’s Tomb HISTORIC BUILDING Masjid, named after one of Shah Jahan’s o wives. It off ers a striking tranquility after (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250, video ₹25; the craziness of the street. After the 1857 hdawn-dusk; mJLN Stadium) This tomb is the First War of Independence the mosque was city’s most sublime sight, and the one the sold to a Hindu merchant, who used it as a Obamas were taken to visit when they were warehouse, but it was later returned to local in Delhi. A beautiful example of early Mu- Muslims. ghal architecture, this tomb was built in the There’s a CNG shuttle service (small green mid-16th century by Haji Begum, the Persian- buses) between Digambara Jain Temple and born senior wife of the second Mughal em- Fatehpuri Masjid (₹5). peror Humayun. The tomb brought Persian style to Delhi, but the two-tone combination Sunehri Masjid MOSQUE of red sandstone and white marble is entirely South of the Red Fort is the 18th-century local, showing the complementary merging Sunehri Masjid. In 1739 Nadir Shah, the of the diff erent cultures. Various elements Persian invader, stood on its roof and maca- in the design of Humayun’s Tomb – a squat brely watched his soldiers conduct a bloody building with high arched entrances that massacre of Delhi’s inhabitants. let in light, topped by a bulbous and New Delhi & Around 68 A B C D

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surrounded by 12 hectares of formal gardens – barber, as well as one belonging to Haji Be- were to be refi ned in the years that followed gum herself and the – a to eventually create the magnifi cence of fi ne example of Lodi architecture through a Agra’s . gate to the left of the entrance. The magnif- Other beautiful tombs dot the complex, icent Mughal gardens are a magical place including that of the emperor’s favourite to wander, particularly towards sunset. 01km e# 00.5miles E F G H 69 Central 41 #û Park #¡ CONNAUGHT ast Barakhamba Indrapr ha Marg PLACE Road #£ Tilak Bridge 1 h #í #¡ #ì 61 Sikandra Rd Train Station K as Mandi

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EXTENSION DEFENCE B l NEHRU LAJPAT PARK I COLONY a NAGAR L NAGAR EGF H oHazrat Nizam-ud-din the mausoleum has been revamped several Dargah SACRED SITE times, and dates from 1562. Other tombs ( h24hr) Amid a tangle of alleys, and attract- include the later grave of Jahanara (daugh- ing hordes of devotees, is the vibrant marble ter of Shah Jahan), and the renowned Urdu shrine of the Muslim Sufi saint, Nizam-ud- poet, Amir Khusru. It’s one of Delhi’s most din Chishti. He died in 1325, aged 92, but extraordinary pleasures to experience the 70 New Delhi & Around æ Top Sights Parul Puri ...... (see 30) Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah ...... G5 Humayun's Tomb...... H4 ÿ Sleeping National Museum ...... E3 25 Bnineteen...... H5 26 Colonel's Retreat...... F6

DELHI æ Sights 27 Devna ...... G3 1 Archaeological Survey of India...... E3 28 Inn at Delhi...... A6 2 Tomb...... E4 29 ITC Maurya ...... A4

3 Crafts Museum...... G2 30 K-One One ...... G5 4 Gandhi Smriti...... E4 31 Lutyens Guest House ...... E5 5 Gurdwara Bangla Sahib ...... D1 32 Youth Hostel...... C3 6 India Gate ...... F2 33 YWCA Blue Triangle Family 7 Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum...... D4 Hostel ...... D1 8 Lodi Garden...... E5 9 National Gallery of Modern Art...... G3 ú Eating 10 National Rail Museum...... B5 34 All American Diner ...... F5 11 National Zoological Gardens ...... H3 Amici ...... (see 44) 12 Nehru Memorial Museum...... D4 35 Andhra Bhawan Pradesh 13 ...... C3 Canteen...... F2 14 Purana Qila...... G3 Baci...... (see 46) 15 ...... C2 Basil & Thyme ...... (see 45) 16 Safdarjang's Tomb...... D5 Bukhara...... (see 29) 17 Sansad Bhavan...... D2 Chicken Inn...... (see 40) 18 Secretariat (North Block)...... D2 36 Dhaba...... E4 19 Secretariat (South Block)...... D2 Eatopia ...... (see 34) 20 Tibet House...... F5 Gulati...... (see 40) Havemore ...... (see 40) Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Karim's...... (see 23) 21 Amatrra Spa...... C4 Khan Chacha ...... (see 44) 22 ...... G4 Kitchen...... (see 44) 23 Hope Project ...... G5 37 Lodi Garden Restaurant ...... E5 24 Morarji Desai National Institute Mamagoto...... (see 44) of Yoga...... D1 38 Monsoon ...... E2

buzz around the site and hear Sufi s sing gold examples from the 1st century, wood- qawwali at around sunset, just after eve- carving, textiles, musical instruments, and ning prayers on Thursdays and feast days. Indus jewellery made from shells and bones. Give yourself at least a few hours – preferably National Museum MUSEUM half a day – to explore this museum. % ( 23019272; www.nationalmuseum india.gov.in; You’ll need some identifi cation to obtain Janpath; Indian ₹10, foreigner incl English, French or an audio guide. Video cameras are prohibited. German audio guide ₹300, Hindi audio guide ₹150; Next door is the Archaeological Sur- camera Indian/foreigner ₹20/300; h10am-5pm vey of India (%23019108; asi.nic.in; Janpath; Tue-Sun; mCentral Secretariat) An overview h which stocks of India’s last 5000 years, this is a splendid 9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) publications about India’s main archaeologi- museum – perfect for a rainy day and not so cal sites. large that it overwhelms. Exhibits include rare relics from the Harappan Civilisation, F Crafts Museum MUSEUM including some fascinating mundane items ( %23371641; Bhairon Marg; h10am-5pm such as tweezers and hairpins from around Tue-Sun; mPragati Maidan) This is a tree-shaded 2700 BC, Central Asian antiquities including treasure trove of a museum. The galleries con- many artefacts from the Silk Route, a mes- tain more than 20,000 exhibits from around merising collection of jewel-bright miniature India, including metalware, woodwork, tribal paintings, exquisite old coins including pure masks, paintings, terracotta fi gurines and 71 39 Nathu's ...... G3 45 Santushti Shopping Complex ...... C4 40 Pandara Market...... F3 Shyam Ahuja ...... (see 45) Pindi...... (see 40) Silverline ...... (see 44) Sidewok...... (see 44) 46 Sunder Nagar Market ...... G4 Sweets Corner ...... (see 39)

Information DELHI SIGHTS û Drinking 47 Australian Embassy...... C4 41 24/7...... F1 48 Bangladeshi Embassy ...... A4

Barista ...... (see 44) 49 Bhutan Embassy...... B5 SIGHTS Big Chill...... (see 44) 50 British Embassy ...... C4 Café Coffee Day...... (see 44) 51 Canadian Embassy ...... B5 Café Oz...... (see 44) 52 Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital...... C1 Café Turtle ...... (see 44) 53 Dutch Embassy ...... B5 Latitude ...... (see 44) 54 French Embassy...... C4 55 German Embassy...... B5 ý Entertainment 56 Irish Embassy...... E5 Habitat World...... (see 34) 57 Israeli Embassy ...... E4 42 India International Centre...... E4 58 Malaysian Embassy ...... B5 59 Ministry of Home Affairs þ Shopping (Foreigners Division) ...... F3 Anand Stationers...... (see 44) 60 Myanmar (Burma) Embassy...... B4 Anokhi...... (see 45) 61 Nepalese Embassy...... F1 Anokhi (Branch) ...... (see 44) 62 New Zealand Embassy ...... B5 Bahri Sons...... (see 44) 63 Pakistani Embassy...... C4 43 C Lal & Sons...... E5 64 Singaporean Embassy...... B5 Fabindia (Branch)...... (see 44) 65 Sri Lankan High Commission...... C3 Full Circle Bookstore...... (see 44) 66 Swiss Embassy...... B4 Good Earth ...... (see 45) 67 Thai Embassy ...... B5 Good Earth ...... (see 44) 68 US Embassy ...... C4 44 Khan Market...... F4 Mittal Tea House...... (see 46) Transport OCM Suitings...... (see 44) 69 Bikaner House...... F3 Regalia Tea House...... (see 46) 70 Metropole Tourist Service...... G6

richly coloured textiles. The fascinating items National Gallery of Modern Art ART GALLERY display the application of art to everyday ( %23382835; ngmaindia.gov.in; Jaipur House; life, from village toys to a huge 18th-century Indian/foreigner ₹10/150; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; wooden Gujarati jharokha (elaborate balco- mKhan Market) This gallery has a fantastic ny). Artisans demonstrate their skills and sell new wing alongside the Maharaja of Jai- their products. The on-site shop is particu- pur’s former place. It includes all the great larly good. Photography is only allowed with modern Indian masters, such as the fas- prior permission. cinating ‘Company Paintings’, which were provided by local artists to suit their new Lodi Garden PARK British patrons, beautiful works by Amrita h (Lodi Rd; 6am-8pm Oct-Mar, 5am-8pm Apr-Sep; Sher-Gil and Nobel Prize–winner Rabindra- m Lodi garden is Delhi’s loveliest Khan Market) nath Tagore (who started painting aged 67), escape, popular with everyone from power- and stunning pieces by FN Souza and MF walking politicians to canoodling couples. Husain. Photography isn’t allowed. The gardens are dotted by the crumbling tombs of the Sayyid and Lodi rulers, includ- Rajpath AREA ing the impressive 15th-century Bara Gum- Rajpath (Kingsway) is the imposing ap- bad, and inhabited by fl uttering butterfl ies, proach to New Delhi. It hosts the huge Re- stalking peacocks and all sorts of birds. public Day parade every 26 January and the If you want serenity, avoid Sunday. Beating of the Retreat on 29 January. Connaught Place 72 A B C D Bas ant La 33 #ý #þ #ú #û 11 Pa 15 #ÿ #ú n 40 17 ch #ú 25 13 1 ku H i cle 5 a ir Rd#ì 4 n e C d R dl R d id ial l L #ú 22 M C ia DELHI B d a Rad #ÿ 7 R #ú 24 D #ú 12 #ÿ3

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Raj-appointed English architect Edwin the number of servants employed here was Lutyens constructed New Delhi between staggering. There were 418 gardeners alone, 1914 and 1931, when the British moved their 50 of whom were boys employed to chase capital here from Calcutta. His designs were away birds. To its west, the Mughal Gardens intended to spell out in stone the might of the occupy 130 hectares; it’s only open (admis- British empire – but 16 years later, the British sion free; photography prohibited) to the were out on their ear. New Delhi became the public for several days in February/March – powerhouse of the new Republic. for dates contact India Tourism Delhi. At the western end of Rajpath is the of- Rashtrapati Bhavan is fl anked by the fi cial residence of the , the mirror-image, dome-crowned North and Rashtrapati Bhavan (President’s House), South Secretariat buildings, housing gov- built in 1929. Pre-Independence, this 340- ernment ministries, which have over 1000 room palace was the viceroy’s residence. At rooms between them. The three buildings the time of Mountbatten, India’s last viceroy, sit upon a small rise, known as . e0200mghan ruler Sher Shah during his reign (1538- # 00.1miles E F 45), before the emperor Humayun (whom he 73 had previously defeated) regained control of #£ Minto Bridge India. The site is thought to be that of an- Train Station cient Indraprastha 1 Entering from the south gate you’ll see the graceful octagonal, red-sandstone tower, 29 Shivaji Bridge the Sher Mandal, later used by Humayun DELHI #ü SIGHTS Shankar Train Station as a library. It was while hurriedly descend- Market #£ ing the stairs of this tower in 1556 that he

slipped and sustained injuries from which SIGHTS he later died. Just beyond it is the 1541 Qila- i-Kuhran Mosque (Mosque of Sher Shah), M 2 which delicately combines black-and-white marble with the more easily available deep red sandstone. A popular, picturesque boating lake has been created from the former moat, with pedaloes for hire. 44 # #þ MUSEUM 38 Gandhi Smriti F( %23012843; 5 Tees January Marg, camera Ba 3 ra h khamba Rd free, video prohibited; 10am-1.30pm & 2-5pm Tue- m #û Sun, closed every 2nd Sat of month; Racecourse) 26 This poignant memorial is where was shot dead by a Hindu zealot on Barakhamba #¡ 30 January 1948. Concrete footsteps repre- Road Kast sent Gandhi’s fi nal steps and lead to the spot where he died, marked by a small pavilion urba Gand known as the Martyr’s Column. 4 The impressive indoor museum has pho- tographs, paintings and dioramas depicting hi scenes from Gandhi’s life, including some M ar whizz-bang interactive exhibits. g Gandhi had been staying in the house as a guest, and spent the last 144 days of his life here. In the room he occupied, his meagre possessions are on display, such as his walk- 5 ing stick, spectacles, spinning wheel and d y R ile chappals (sandals). Ha Gurdwara Bangla Sahib SIKH TEMPLE E F (Ashoka Rd; h4am-9pm; mShivaji Stadium) The Gurdwara Bangla Sahib is an important Sikh shrine and a constant hive of activity. Topped At Rajpath’s eastern end is India Gate. This 42m-high stone memorial arch, designed with gold onion domes, it was constructed at by Lutyens, pays tribute to around 90,000 the site where the eighth Sikh guru, Harkris- Indian army soldiers who died in WWI, the han Dev, spent several months in 1664. This Northwest Frontier operations of the same guru dedicated most of his time to helping time and the 1919 Anglo-Afghan War. the destitute and sick and was revered for his healing powers. At the back of the gurdwara Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House), a circular, colonnaded structure 171m in di- (Sikh temple) is a huge tank, surrounded by ameter, stands at the end of Sansad Marg. a graceful colonnade. The water is said to have curative properties. Devotional songs Purana Qila FORT are sung throughout the day. (Old Fort; %24353178; Mathura Rd; Indian/for- Safdarjang’s Tomb HISTORIC BUILDING eigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk; mPragati (Aurobindo Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video Maidan) With its massive walls and impres- sive gateways, Purana Qila was built by Af- ₹25; hdawn-dusk; mJor Bagh) Built by the 74 Connaught Place æ Sights 1911...... (see 6) 1 Jantar Mantar ...... C5 26 24/7 ...... F3 27 Pind Balluchi...... C3 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Aqua ...... (see 10) 2 Delhi Tourism & Transport Bonsai ...... (see 3)

DELHI Development Corporation 28 Café Coffee Day ...... D3 (Branch) ...... B3 Cha Bar...... (see 38) 29 Costa...... E1

ÿ Sleeping 30 Indian Coffee House...... B3 3 Corus ...... C2 Q'BA ...... (see 21) 4 Hotel Alka...... B2 31 Blues ...... D3 5 Hotel Palace Heights...... D2 32 Rodeo...... C2 6 Imperial ...... C5 Prem Sagar Guest House ...... (see 4) ý Entertainment 7 Radisson Marina...... C1 Attic...... (see 39) 8 Ringo Guest House...... D4 33 PVR Plaza Cinema...... D1 9 Sunny Guest House...... D3 10 Park...... B4 þ Shopping 11 York Hotel ...... D1 34 Central Cottage Industries Emporium ...... D5 ú Eating Fabindia (Branch)...... (see 24) 12 Embassy...... D2 35 Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan...... C3 Haldiram's...... (see 29) M Ram & Sons...... (see 21) 13 Kake-da-Hotel...... D1 36 Marques & Co...... C2 14 Kerala House...... B5 37 Nalli Silk Sarees...... B2 Kwality...... (see 39) 38 Oxford Bookstore (Statesman Nirula's ...... (see 25) House)...... E3 15 Nizam's Kathi Kabab...... D1 39 People Tree...... C3 16 Rajdhani ...... B3 Shop ...... (see 39) 17 Sagar Ratna ...... D1 40 Soma...... D1 18 Saravana Bhavan...... D5 41 State Emporiums ...... A3 Saravana Bhavan (Branch) ...... (see 4) 19 Tao...... D2 Information 20 Chinese...... D3 42 India Tourism Delhi 21 United Coffee House...... D2 (Government of India) ...... D4 22 Véda...... C1 23 Wenger's ...... C2 Transport Zāffrān...... (see 5) 43 Jagson Airlines...... D5 24 Zen...... D1 44 Kingfisher Airlines...... E3 Kumar Tourist Taxi Service...... (see 11) û ü Drinking Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth ...... (see 42) 25 @live ...... D1 45 Prepaid Autorickshaw Booth ...... C2

Nawab of Avadh for his father, Safdarjang, seum, displaying artefacts, photos and news- this grandiose mid-18th-century tomb is one paper clippings, as well as personal belong- of the last examples of . ings, including the blood-stained sari she It’s a fantastical work of overwrought man- was wearing when she was assassinated in nerism, which seems refl ect the fi nal throes 1984. Some of the rooms are preserved as of the great empire. they were, an interesting window into the understated elegance of her life. Another Indira Gandhi Memorial section is devoted to her son Rajiv, also as- FMuseum MUSEUM sassinated in 1991 by a suicide bomber. ( %23010094; 1 Safdarjang Rd; h9.30am-4.45pm Fragments of the clothes he was wearing Tue-Sun; mRacecourse) The former residence of Indira Gandhi is now a fascinating mu- and, even more poignantly, his trainers, are on display. On the way out, you’ll pass an en- named Rajiv Chowk and Indira Chowk re- closed crystal pathway that marks Gandhi’s spectively, but these names are rarely used. 75 fi nal footsteps before her murder. Touts are especially rampant in Con- naught Place. FNehru Memorial Museum & Planetarium MUSEUM Jantar Mantar HISTORIC SITE ( %23016734; h9am-5.15pm Tue-Sun) Teen Murti (Map p72 ; Sansad Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; Bhavan is the former residence of Jawaharlal h9am-dusk; mPatel Chowk) The most ec- DELHI Nehru (India’s fi rst prime minister), and was centric of all Delhi’s inner-city structures, SIGHTS previously Flagstaff House, home to the Brit- Jantar Mantar is an odd collection of huge ish commander-in-chief. Just off Teen Murti curved terracotta buildings, a giant play- Rd, it has been converted into a must-see ground which makes for great photo opps. SIGHTS museum for those interested in the Indepen- ‘Jantar Mantar’ may mean the equivalent to dence movement. Some rooms have been ‘abracadabra’ in Hindi, but the site was con- preserved as Nehru left them, and there’s a structed in 1725 for scientifi c purposes – it’s wealth of photographs, though some contex- the earliest of Maharaja Jai Singh II’s fi ve ob- tualisation would come in handy. servatories. It’s dominated by a huge sundial In the grounds is a recently renovated and houses other instruments plotting the planetarium (%23014504; http://nehruplanet course of heavenly bodies. arium.org; 45min show ₹50; hin English 11.30am & 3pm). OTHER AREAS Bahai House of Worship Tibet House MUSEUM () TEMPLE % h ( 24611515; 1 Lodi Rd; admission ₹10; 9.30am- (Map p78 ; %26444029; Kalkaji; h9.30am-5.30pm m Tibet 1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri; JLN Stadium) Tue-Sun; mKalkaji Mandir) This extraordinary House has a small museum displaying temple is shaped like the sacred lotus fl ow- ceremonial items, including sacred manu- er and is a wonderful place to seek some scripts, sculptures and old thangkas (Ti- otherworldly peace. Designed by Iranian- betan paintings on cloth). All were brought Canadian architect Fariburz Sahba in 1986, out of Tibet when the Dalai Lama fl ed fol- it has 27 immaculate white-marble petals. lowing Chinese occupation. Photography The Bahai philosophy revolves around uni- prohibited. versal peace and the elimination of preju- The bookshop sells Buddhist books, dice, and adherents of all faiths are welcome chanting CDs, prayer fl ags and katas (sa- to pray or meditate silently according to cred Tibetan scarves). their own religion. National Zoological Gardens ZOO Refrain from speaking in the temple; ( %24359825; Mathura Rd; Indian/foreigner photography inside is prohibited. ₹10/50, video ₹50; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu; mPragati Akshardham Temple TEMPLE Wildly popular with families and Maidan) (www.akshardham.com; turning, National couples, this is India’s biggest zoo, set in Hwy 24; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar, 10am-7pm 86 hectares. There are white Bengal tigers, Tue-Sun Apr-Sep; mAkshardham) Himalayan black bears, rhinos, wolves, Swaminarayan Group’s controversially os- elephants and some spectacular birds. tentatious Akshardham Temple, on Delhi’s outskirts, has something of a Disney feel. CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA Inaugurated in 2005, it’s made of salmon- New Delhi’s colonnaded heart is commer- coloured sandstone with an interior carved cial centre Connaught Place (CP; Map p72 ), from white marble in giddying detail. It named after ’s uncle who visited contains around 20,000 carved deities, and in 1921. Its streets radiate from the central refl ects traditional Orissan, Gujarati, Mu- circle, divided into blocks and devoted to ghal and Rajasthani architectural elements. shops, banks, restaurants, hotels and offi ces. Outside there are 148 carved elephants, each Often creating confusion, the outer circle diff erent. is technically called Connaught Circus (di- Allow at least half a day to do it justice vided into blocks from G to N) and the inner (weekdays are less crowded) as there’s lots circle Connaught Place (divided into blocks to see, including a boat ride through 10,000 from A to F). There’s also a Middle Circle. years of Indian history, elaborate anima- In 1995 the inner and outer circles were re- tronics telling stories of the life of Swamina- rayan, and musical fountains. e 0400m Paharganj # 00.2miles 76 A B C D #ÿ6 Arakashan Rd #ÿ RAM NAGAR 7 1 1

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Paharganj Activities, Courses & Tours ú Eating Salaam Baalak Trust...... (see 8) 13 Khosla Café...... A2 14 Kitchen Café ...... B2 ÿ Sleeping 15 Madan Café...... A2 1 Ajay Guest Hosue ...... B2 16 Malhotra...... A2 2 Cottage Ganga Inn...... B2 Metropolis Restaurant & Bar ...... (see 11) 3 Cottage Yes Please ...... A2 17 Sam's Café...... B2 4 Hare Krishna Guest House ...... B2 18 Sita Ram Dewan Chand...... A2 5 Hare Rama Guest House ...... B2 19 Tadka ...... B2 6 Hotel Amax Inn ...... C1 7 Hotel Grand Godwin...... C1 ûüDrinking 8 Hotel Namaskar...... B2 20 Gem...... C2 9 Hotel Rak International ...... B2 Metropolis Restaurant & Bar ...... (see 11) 10 Major's Den ...... B2 21 My Bar...... A3 11 Metropolis Tourist Home...... A2 22 Open Hand Café ...... A2 12 Roxy Hotel...... A2 Vivek Hotel ...... (see 17) Transport 23 International Tourist Bureau...... D2

Lakshmi Narayan Temple temple for all castes; a sign on the gate says, (Birla Mandir) TEMPLE ‘Everyone is Welcome’. (Map p64 ; Mandir Marg; h6am-9pm; mRK Ashram National Rail Museum MUSEUM Marg) West of Connaught Place, the Orissan- % style Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a rather (Map p68; 26881816; www.nationalrailmuseum. overexcited red-and-cream confection, was org; Chanakyapuri; admission adult/child ₹20/10, erected in 1938 by the wealthy industrialist video ₹100;h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar, to 7pm Trainspotters and kids will adore this BD Birla. It was inaugurated by Gandhi as a Apr-Sep) museum, with around 30 locomotives and old carriages. Exhibits include an 1855 steam en- Sulabh International Museum of gine, still in working order, and various oddi- SToilets MUSEUM 77 ties including the skull of an elephant that ( %25031518; www.sulabhtoiletmuseum.org; Sulabh charged a train in 1894, and lost. Complex, Mahavir Enclave, Palam Dabri Rd; admis- There’s also the 10-minute Joy Train ride sion free; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) This quirky (adult/child ₹10/5), and boating is also pos- museum houses toilet-related paraphernalia sible (adult/child ₹30/15). dating from 2500 BC to modern times. It’s

not just a curiosity: Sulabh International DELHI Hauz Khas AREA has done extraordinary work in the fi eld ACTIVITIES Hauz Khas means ‘royal tank’, named after of sanitation, developing pour-fl ush toilets a 13th-century reservoir built by Allauddin

and bio-gas plants, and educating the chil- ACTIVITIESACTIVITES Khilji. The artifi cial lake was once the wa- dren of ‘manual scavengers’ (whose job is to ter source for – the second city of remove the crap from dry toilets) for other Delhi – and now is a beautiful blue-green work. A guided tour (free) brings the loos expanse that feels forgotten by the modern to life. city. Overlooking it are Firoz Shah’s 14th- century domed (religious school) 2 Activities and his tomb (Map p 78), which were once covered in brilliantly painted white plaster oAmatrra Spa SPA and topped by gold domes. Some Lodi and (Map p68 ; %24122921; www.amatrraspa. Tughlak tombs also dot the area, which com; Ashok Hotel, Chanakyapuri; h9am-10pm; whirls with grass-green parakeets and other mRacecourse) The most legendarily luxuri- birds. This is a fascinating, secluded place ous of all Delhi’s luxury spas, Amatrra is to explore, and neighbouring the A-list place to be pampered. There’s Hauz Khas a cover charge of ₹1000 for nonguests; village (Map p 78) is one of Delhi’s artiest enclaves, fi lled with upmarket boutiques, massages, such as ‘Asian Blend’, cost from quirky bars and curio shops. ₹3000, and there are many other treat- ments, like ‘Sparkle Body Scrub’ (₹3500). Shankar’s International Delhi Golf Club GOLFING Dolls Museum MUSEUM (Map p68 ; %24307100; www.delhigolfclub.org; (Map p64 ; %23316970; www.childrensbooktrust. Dr Zakir Hussain Marg; weekdays/weekends com; Nehru House, Marg; US$50/70; hsunrise-sunset; mJor Bagh) Dates h From adult/child ₹15/5; 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) from 1931 and has beautiful, well-tended Spanish bullfi ghting fi gurines to Indian fairways; weekends are busy. bridal dolls, this remarkable museum has 6500 dolls from 85 countries. Kerala Ayurveda AYURVEDA (Map p78 ; %41754888; www.keralaayurveda.biz; Coronation Site HISTORIC SITE E-2 Green Park Extn; h8am-8pm; mGreen Park) In a desolate fi eld, north of Old Delhi, stands For abhyangam (oil treatment; ₹1200 for a lone obelisk. Here, in 1877 and 1903, the 45 minutes), plus other Ayurvedic thera- great durbars, featuring Indian nobility, pies, try this place. paid homage to the British monarch. In 1911, King George V was declared emperor of In- Lambency Spa SPA dia here. (Map p78 ; %40587983; www.chandansparsh.com; M-24 Greater Kailash II; h9am-9pm) Here you Kotla Firoz Shah HISTORIC SITE can have a top-of-the-range manicure and (Map p64 ; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; pedicure (₹1000) or one-hour body mas- hdawn-dusk; mPragati Maidan) Firozabad (the sage (from ₹1000). Prices don’t include tax. fi fth city of Delhi) was built by Firoz Shah in 1354. Its ruins, including a mosque and Jaypee Vasant Continental step well, can be found at Kotla Firoz Shah, Hotel SWIMMING % off Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. Visit on a (Map p78; 26148800; Basant Lok complex, Escape the Thursday afternoon when crowds come to Vasant Vihar; per person ₹1202) summer heat at this five-star hotel pool. pray, light candles and leave bowls of milk to appease Delhi’s djinns (invisible spirits SWIMMING or genies) that are reputed to inhabit the (Map p78 ; %26496657; day membership Indian/ kotla. In the fortress/palace is a 13m-high foreigner ₹40/100; hApr-Sep; mGreen Park) sandstone Ashoka Pillar inscribed with Olympic-sized swimming pool plus a tod- Ashoka’s edicts (and a later inscription). dler pool. South Delhi 78 A B C D #í #þ #¡ 38 g 31 INA rg r #æ mMa a

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C Courses regions. The charge is ₹1200 per person; book at least two days in Tannie Baig COOKING advance. ( %9899555704; [email protected]; 2hr les- son ₹3200; mHauz Khas) The elegant Tannie, Central Hindi Directorate LANGUAGE who runs Treetops Guest House in Hauz (%26103160; hindinideshalaya.nic.in; West Block Khas has written 16 cookery books. A two- VII, RK Puram; 60hr course ₹6000) Runs basic hour cooking lesson sounds pricey, but it’s Hindi courses (minimum numbers apply) a flat rate for up to five people. If you stay of 60 hours (two hours daily, three lessons at the guesthouse, lessons are half price. per week).

Parul Puri COOKING Dhyan Foundation MEDITATION, YOGA % Vari- (Map p68 ; %9810793322; www.koneone.com; ( 26253374; www.dhyanfoundation.com) ous yoga and meditation options based in mJangpura) K-One One (p85 ) runs two- hour classes with a focus on cuisine from South Extension II. e 01km # 00.5miles E F G H 79 SOUTH EXTENSION DEFENCE 28 PARK I #þ KALINDI 32 COLONY South Extension #þ NEHRU LAJPAT #ÿ COLONY NAGAR M Market (Part I) 22 NAGAR 16 athura R #þ #ú 1 #¡

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Morarji Desai National meditation classes, and Vedic chanting Institute of Yoga MEDITATION, YOGA classes (evenings or by appointment). (Map p68 ; %23721472; www.yogamdniy.com; 68 Tushita Meditation Centre MEDITATION m Offers one-year Ashoka Rd; Patel Chowk) (%26513400; 9 Padmini Enclave, Hauz Khas) diploma courses that include pranayama Tibetan/Buddhist meditation sessions on and hatha yoga as well as meditation. Monday and Fridays at 6.30pm. Donations Sri Aurobindo Ashram MEDITATION, YOGA are appreciated. (%26858563; Aurobindo Marg; classes per month ₹500) Yoga and meditation, morning, T Tours afternoon and evening, three days a week. Delhi is a spread-out city so taking a tour Studio Abhyas MEDITATION, YOGA makes sense, although you can feel rushed (%26962757, bookings Monica 9810522624; F-27 at some sites. Avoid Monday when many Green Park) Yoga classes combining asanas sites are shut. Admission fees and camera/ (fixed body positions) and pranayama, video charges aren’t included in tour prices 80 South Delhi æ Sights û Drinking 1 Bahai House of Worship (Lotus Café Turtle (Branch)...... (see 30) Temple) ...... H2 Haze ...... (see 24) 2 Firoz Shah's Tomb...... C2 Kunzum Travel Café ...... (see 27) 3 Garden of 5 Senses...... C5 Love Hotel...... (see 25)

DELHI 4 Mehrauli Archaeological Park...... C5 Red Monkey...... (see 22) 5 ...... C5 Shalom...... (see 30) 6 Tughlaqabad...... H5 23 Shalom...... A2

TLR ...... (see 27) Activities, Courses & Tours Urban Pind...... (see 30) Jaypee Vasant Continental Hotel(see 24) 7 Kerala Ayurveda ...... D2 ý Entertainment Lambency Spa...... (see 20) 24 PVR Priya Cinema...... A2 8 Siri Fort Sports Complex ...... E2 25 PVR Saket (Anupam 4)...... D5 9 Sri Aurobindo Ashram ...... D3 10 Studio Abhyas...... C2 þ Shopping 11 Tushita Meditation Centre...... D3 Anokhi (Branch)...... (see 30) Defence Colony Market...... (see 22) ÿ Sleeping 26 ...... D1 12 Amarya Haveli...... D3 Fabindia ...... (see 30) 13 Amarya Villa...... C1 Full Circle Bookshop ...... (see 30) 14 Chhoti Haveli ...... A5 27 Hauz Khas Village...... C2 15 Home Away From Home...... D2 28 Lajpat Nagar Central Market...... G1 16 The Manor...... H1 29 M-Block Market...... F3 17 Treetops...... D3 Nalli Silk Sarees...... (see 20) 30 N-Block Market ...... F2 ú Eating 31 Sarojini Nagar Market...... C1 18 Arabian Nites ...... A2 32 Timeless...... F1 Diva...... (see 20) 19 Evergreen...... D2 Information Gunpowder ...... (see 27) 33 All India Institute of Medical Indian Accent...... (see 16) Sciences...... D1 Moti Mahal ...... (see 29) 34 Central Hindi Directorate ...... B1 20 Not Just Parathas...... F5 35 Concern India Foundation...... G1 21 Olive...... B5 36 East West Medical Centre ...... F2 Punjabi by Nature...... (see 18) 37 Foreigners' Regional Sagar Ratna ...... (see 22) Registration Office (FRRO) ...... C1 Smokehouse Grill...... (see 20) 38 Maldives High Commission...... A1 22 Swagath ...... F1 Zāffrān...... (see 30)

below, and rates are per person. Book several New Delhi. Tours start early to avoid the days in advance as minimum numbers may traffi c and the price includes chai and a be required. India Tourism Delhi (p98 ) can Mughal breakfast. arrange multilingual, government-approved guides (from ₹150/300 per half-/full day). SSalaam Balaak Trust WALKING (Map p76 ; %23584164, 9910099348; www. oDelhiByCycle CYCLING salaambaalaktrust.com; Gali Chandiwali, Paha- ( %9811723720; www.delhibycycle.com; rganj; suggested donation ₹200; mRK Ashram ₹1250; h6.45-10am) Run by Jack Leenaars, Marg) This charitable organisation off ers a journalist from the Netherlands, this is a two-hour ‘street walks’ with a twist – your fantastic way to see Delhi. There’s the Shah guide is a former (Trust-trained) street Jahan Tour around the back lanes and ba- child, who will show you fi rst-hand what zaars of Old Delhi, and the Raj Tour around life is like for inner-city homeless kids. The money goes to the Trust to assist children Tourism Delhi, or check www.incredible on the streets. indianhomes.com and www.mahindrahome 81 stays.com. Hope Project WALKING Long-term stayers could consider renting S % (Map p68; 24353006; www.hopeproject a furnished apartment – check ads in the lat- india.org; 127 Hazrat Nizamuddin; 90min walk ₹150) est Delhi City Guide, Delhi Diary and local Ninety-minute walks around the basti (slum) newspapers. Two good websites are www. of Nizamuddin, which surrounds the Dar-

speciality-apartments.com and www.delhi DELHI gah, learning about the area. It’s a poverty- SLEEPING escape.net. stricken place, so can be shocking as well as Hotels with a minimum tariff of ₹1000 insightful. The walk fee goes towards sup-

charge 12.5% luxury tax and some also SLEEPING porting the Hope Project’s work. Wear mod- whack on a service charge (5% to 10%). est clothing as this is a very traditional area. Taxes aren’t included in this chapter unless Delhi Tourism & Transport indicated and all rooms have private bath- Development Corporation BUS TOURS rooms unless otherwise stated. Most hotels (DTTDC; delhitourism.nic.in) Baba Kharak Singh have a noon checkout and luggage storage Marg (Map p72 ; %23363607; h7am-9pm); inter- is usually possible (sometimes for a small national airport (%25675609; h8am-9pm) Bus charge). tours (₹310 AC) of New Delhi (9am to 2pm) It’s a good idea to call or email ahead to and Old Delhi (2.15pm to 5.15pm) . Also runs confi rm your booking 24 hours before you the new air-conditioned Hop-on, Hop-off arrive. (HOHO) Bus Service (%1280; ₹300; hevery 30 min, 7.30am-8pm Tue-Sun), which passes by all Delhi’s major sights. Same-day trips OLD DELHI to Agra (₹1100 AC) run three times a week Few foreign tourists stay in teeming Old while three-day tours of Agra and Jaipur Delhi – those who do will probably attract a (₹6350, via rail) operate twice weekly. bit of innocuous attention.

Old Delhi Walks WALKING Maidens Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Intach; %24641304; www.intachdelhichapter. (Map p64 ; %23975464; www.maidenshotel.com; org; tour ₹50) Intach runs a walking tour Sham Nath Marg; r from ₹15,000; ais; mCivil (approximately two hours) every month Lines) Set in a 3.2-hectare garden, Maidens is with an expert guide, exploring different a graceful wedding cake of a hotel, built in areas, such as Chandhi Chowk, Nizamud- 1903. Lutyens stayed here while supervis- din, Hauz Khas, and Mehrauli. Customised ing the building of New Delhi. The high- tours are also possible. Book ahead. ceilinged rooms are traditional and well equipped, and some have good views. 4 Sleeping It’s wise to book in advance, as Delhi’s most Hotel Bombay Orient HOTEL $ % a salubrious places can fi ll up in a fl ash, leav- (Map p64; 23242691; s/d ₹400/625; ; m Set on the busy bazaar lead- ing new arrivals easy prey for commission Chawri Bazaar) ing from the Jama Masjid’s south gate. You’ll sharks. Most hotels off er pick-up from the need to book ahead here. It’s one of the old airport with advance notice. city’s best budget bets but, even so, don’t ex- Be warned that street din can be dia- pect too much and request one of its newer bolical – request a quiet room and keep rooms. earplugs handy. Also, room quality in less expensive hotels can vary radically so try Hotel Broadway HOTEL $$ to inspect a few rooms fi rst. Delhi’s budget (Map p64 ; %43663600; www.hotelbroadwaydelhi bunch tend to off er dreary rooms, bath- .com/; 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; s/d incl breakfast rooms in need of a good scrub and patchy ₹2495/4495; ai; mNew Delhi) Semiluxurious service. Most backpackers head for hyper- Broadway, between the old and new cities, active Paharganj, a touristy pocket near the has some rooms with views over Old Delhi. New Delhi train station that has some of the Room standards vary (some are sleek and city’s cheapest beds. smart), so look at a few. Nos 44 and 46 have Midrange prices have rocketed upwards been kitschly kitted out by French designer over recent years, so homestays are becom- Catherine Lévy, as has the Chor Bizarre ing an attractive alternative. For details of restaurant, and there’s the atmospheric, if government-approved places contact India divey, ‘Thugs’ bar upstairs. 82 Dilshad Garden Noida City Centre Vaishali Kasuhambi Jhilmil Noida Sector 18

Noida Sector 16

Noida Sector 15 Mansarovar Park Mansarovar New Asok Nagar Golf Mayur Vihar Extension Course DELHI

Mayur Vihar e Preet Vihar

Shahdara Akshardham Gardens Botanical Anand Vihar

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Vihar th s BANK Nirman Seelampur pra YAMUNA ra d In Badarpur Park Road Pragati Tuglakabad Maidan Shastri Mohan Estate Sarita Vihar Jasola Apollo Barakhamba Okhla Govind Puri Kalkaji Mandir Nehru Place Mandi House Kailash Colony Moolchand KASHMIRI GATE Chandni Chowk Lajpat Nagar Chawri Bazar NEW DELHI Civil Lines Jangpura RAJIV CHOWK Vidhan Sabha JL Nehru Stadium Khan

Vishwavidyalaya Market an Tis GTB Nagar Hazari Model Town

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Marg Jhandewal Pulbangash RK Ashram Patel Chowk Jahangirputri Hauz Khas INA Nagar Pratap Malviya Nagar Jor Bagh Racecourse Saket AIIMS Bagh Karol Nagar Udyog Bhawan Qutab Minar Adarsh Chhattarpur Sultanpur Nagar Shastri Ghitorni Green Park CENTRAL SECRETARIAT Place INDERLOK

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Sikanderpur Park Ashok Shad Netaji Subhash Place MG Road Kuan Patel Dhaula Nagar Bagh Punjabi Kohat Enclave Kirti Pitampura Park Nagar Shivaji Rohini East Madipur Delhi Aero City Rohini West East Ramesh Nagar Vihar Moti IFFCO Chowk Paschim Nagar West Vihar Paschim Airport Rithala Udyog Nagar HUDA City Centre Rajouri Garden Subhash Nagar Surajmal Stadium International Indira Gandhi Peeragarhi Nangloi Station Tagore Garden Nangloi East Dwarka Sec-20 Park Janakpuri West Dwarka Sec-8 Tilak Nagar Rajdhani Dwarka Sec-9 t

as Dwarka Sec-10 Mundka Uttam Nagar West ar E Dwarka Sec-11 ag N a Dwarka Sec-12 am d tt

wa Dwarka Sec-13 U a Dwarka Mor N Dwarka Sec-14 LINE 1: Dilshad Garden–Rithala LINE 2: Jahangir Putri–HUDA City Centre LINE 3: Vaishali–Noida City Centre–Dwarka LINE 4: Mundka–Inderlok LINE 5: Central Secretariat–Badarpur LINE 6: Indira Gandhi International Airport Interchange Dwarka Map Hotel New City Palace HOTEL $ north of Main Bazaar in Ram Nagar, the (Map p64 ; %23279548; www.hotelnewcitypalace.in; Grand Godwin is the best midrange choice in 83 d ₹400-500, tr ₹600, q ₹700-1300; a; mChawri Ba- this area, with smart rooms, a snazzy lobby, zaar) A palace it’s not, but this has an amazing glass-capsule lift and room service. Godwin location overlooking the Jama Masjid (some Deluxe at number 15 is a more upmarket ho- rooms have views over the mosque), snug tel, owned by the same management. rooms, bathrooms that could do with a good Hotel Amax Inn HOTEL $

scrub but are bearable, and friendly reception. DELHI ( %23543813; www.hotelamax.com; 8145/6 Ara- SLEEPING Ginger HOTEL $$ kashan Rd; s ₹400-450, d ₹550-750, AC s ₹650, d (Map p64 ; %1800 209 3333; www.gingerhotels. ₹750-850; aW; mNew Delhi) Away from the SLEEPING com; Rail Yatri Niwas; r incl tax ₹1300; ai; mNew main bazaar, this chilled place is fantas- Delhi) Off ers reasonably smart rooms that tic value, with nice clean rooms and bath- are ideal for business travel on the cheap. It rooms, tucked away in a lane off Arakashan is in an ugly building in a desolate-feeling Rd. There’s a small roof terrace and wi-fi in location that’s nevertheless a few minutes’ reception. walk from New Delhi train station. There’s a 24-hour restaurant. Hotel Namaskar GUESTHOUSE $ ( %23583456; www.hotelnamaskar.com; 917 Chandi- PAHARGANJ AREA walan, Main Bazaar; d/tr/q from ₹350/500/600, With its bumper-to-bumper budget lodgings, AC d ₹600; aW) This old favourite is run by Paharganj – with its seedy reputation for two amiable brothers. Rooms are spartan – drugs and dodgy characters – isn’t everyone’s you get what you pay for, but they’re usu- cup of chai, though it’s certainly got a lively ally freshly painted and the colour scheme feel. Grot aside, it’s walking distance from is bound to tickle you pink. Car hire can be New Delhi train station and close to the hub arranged, and wi-fi is available courtesy of of Connaught Place – and it’s the place to tap the net cafe next door (₹100 per 24 hours). into the backpacker grapevine. Paharganj has some of Delhi’s cheapest places to sleep, but Cottage Ganga Inn HOTEL $$ sun-starved, grimy cells are depressingly com- ( %23561516; [email protected]; 1562 mon, and hot water erratic. Bazar Sangtra shan; s/d ₹800/1100; aiW) Pop- Despite drastic street-widening measures ular with overlanders, this hotel is tucked that forced many businesses to destroy their away off the Main Bazaar in a courtyard, encroaching facades in preparation for the located next to a nursery school. It is clean, Commonwealth Games, Main Bazaar re- comfortable and a great deal for Paharganj. mains overwhelmingly congested. Thus, Ajay Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ taxi-wallahs may (understandably) refuse to ( %23583125; www.anupamhoteliersltd.com; 5084 drop you at your hotel’s doorstep; however, Main Bazaar; s/d ₹900/1000; ai) Ajay is more most are a short walk from the train station. promising than it appears from its hallways. All the following are close to metro stop Fresh coats of paint mean rooms look bright RK Ashram Marg unless otherwise stated. and snazzy, and some have colourful geo- Note this stop is more convenient for the metric detailing. Bathrooms are clean and Main Bazaar than metro stop New Delhi, as colourfully tiled. from the latter you have to walk all the way through the busy station. The following ac- Hotel Rak International HOTEL $ % commodation features on Map p76 . ( 23562478; [email protected]; Tooti Chowk, Main Bazaar; s/d ₹450-750, ₹550-850; a) Tucked off the main bazaar and overlook- oCottage Yes Please HOTEL $ ( %23562300; [email protected] ing a messy little courtyard with a temple, .in; 1843 Laxmi Narayan St; d ₹900; ai) Around the modest rooms at this popular hotel the corner from Cottage Crown Plaza is this have marble floors, TVs, wardrobes, small place, its sibling, and one of the best deals in dressing tables and…windows! Paharganj, with a range of glitzy, clean rooms, Vivek Hotel HOTEL $ with TVs, fridges, brassware fans and stained (%46470555; www.vivekhotel.com; Main Bazaar; r glass windows. ₹600-1000; ai) This multistorey favourite has a good range of rooms – cheaper ones Hotel Grand Godwin HOTEL $$ are reasonable and clean and the more ( %23546891; www.godwinhotels.com; 8502/41 expensive even have a small window with Arakashan Rd, Ram Nagar; s/d incl breakfast a view. ₹2300/2600; aiW; mNew Delhi) Located Metropolis Tourist Home HOTEL $$ eryone from princesses to pop stars. The 84 (%23561794; www.metropolistravels.com; 1634 high-ceilinged rooms have it all, from French Main Bazaar; s/d incl tax from ₹1000/1250; ai) linen and puff y pillows to marble baths and Rooms (some with tight balconies) here fi nely crafted furniture. There’s a great bar, are simple and characterless but come 1911, which is perfect for high tea. with smooth tiled floors, TVs and fridges. The rooftop restaurant is an added bonus. Radisson Marina HOTEL $$$ ( %43582610; www.hotelpalaceheights.com; 26-28 DELHI Major’s Den GUESTHOUSE $ D-Block; s/d ₹6500/7000; aiW) CP’s fl ashest (%23589010; s/d ₹500/600; a) In a quietish hotel, the Radisson’s update of the old Hotel sidestreet, the friendly Den has no-frills, Marina is nice, with sleek, stylish all-mod- bearably clean rooms, with cleanish walls; con rooms, two restaurants and a cool bar, not all have windows. the Connaught. GUESTHOUSE $ Hare Krishna Guest House Park HOTEL $$$ % ( 41541341; 1572 Main Bazaar; r from ₹300) ( %23744000; www.theparkhotels.com; 15 Parlia- Scuffed but bearable rooms. ment St; s/d from ₹12,000/14,000; aiWs) Hare Rama Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ Conran-designed, with lots of modern fl air, (%23561301; Main Bazaar; s/d from ₹300/400; and has a smashing spa, breezily chic restau- a) Grotty but bearable rooms, tucked in rant and a great poolside bar. behind the bazaar. Hotel Palace Heights HOTEL $$$ MAJNU-KA-TILLA ( %43582610; www.hotelpalaceheights.com; 26-28 The antidote for anyone who’s got the big- D-Block; s/d ₹6500/7000; aiW) Connaught city blues, this mellow enclave (aka Tibetan Place’s most accessibly priced boutique ho- Colony), a block intercut by narrow lanes, tel has sleek rooms with gleaming white lin- is a long way from the centre, but good for en, black lampshades and caramel padded a little Lhasa vibe. It’s packed with travel headboards. There’s an excellent restaurant agents, cyber cafes and trinket markets, and and 24-hour room service. you’ll rub shoulders with maroon-clad Bud- dhist monks, curio vendors, local residents Corus HOTEL $$$ % and rather a lot of beggars. It’s tricky to fi nd ( 43652222; www.hotelcorus.com; 49 B-Block; s/d ai This has clean, swish, though, north of the ISBT (bus station), and from ₹6000/6500; ) compact rooms, with dazzling white sheets. its rubbish problem makes Paharganj look More money buys you a lot more space. But tidy. From the centre, take the metro to Vid- readers report mixed service and occasional han Sabha, then take a rickshaw. problems with hot water. There’s an attractive Wongdhen House GUESTHOUSE $ restaurant, Bonsai, good for a drink, with ( %23816689; [email protected]; r ₹575, outdoor seating in a white-pebbled courtyard. without bathroom ₹375; a) The pick of the Majnu-ka-Tilla bunch has basic but good- Hotel Alka HOTEL $$$ % sized, clean rooms. The rooftop has views ( 23344328; www.hotelalka.com; P-Block; s/d from a Alka’s cramped standard over the Yamuna and the tasty restaurant ₹2950/5000; ) rooms are overpriced but comfortable, some rustles up everything from banana pancakes with wood-panelled walls. More money buys to Tibetan noodles (and does room service). more pizazz, including grrrroovy leopard- NEW DELHI & AROUND skin-themed rooms. There’s a good vegetar- ian restaurant. CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA CP properties are unbeatably central, but Prem Sagar Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ you pay a premium for the location. These (%23345263; www.premsagarguesthouse.com; 1st listings feature on Map p72 and are close to fl, 11 P-Block; s/d from ₹3000/3500; ai) This is metro stop Rajiv Chowk. a reliable choice. The 12 snug rooms aren’t flash, but they’re clean, with TV, fridge and oImperial HOTEL $$$ wardrobe. There’s a pot-plant filled outdoor ( %23341234; www.theimperialindia.com; area, and internet in reception. Janpath; s/d ₹15,000/17,500; aiWs) The inimitable, Raj-era Imperial marries Victo- Ringo Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ rian colonial classicism with gilded art deco, (%23310605; ringo_guest [email protected]; 17 houses an impressive collection of 17th- and Scindia House, Connaught Lane; s/d ₹350/550, 18th-century paintings, and has hosted ev- without bathroom ₹350/450) Sunny Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ CHANAKYAPURI & ASHOKA ROAD (%23312909; [email protected]; Youth Hostel HOSTEL $ 85 152 Scindia House, Connaught Lane; s/d ₹400/500, (Map p68 ; %26871969; www.yhaindia.org; 5 Nyaya without bathroom ₹200/350) Marg, Chanakyapuri; dm/s/d ₹275/450/900, with AC ₹600/650/1300; ai) The dormitory is WEST OF CONNAUGHT PLACE If you like home-style lodgings you will love good value (YHA membership costs ₹100 these hassle-free places but be aware that per year), pretty clean, basic and centrally

located – it’s in the diplomatic enclave. DELHI they fi ll up fast – so you should book ahead. SLEEPING YWCA Blue Triangle Family Shanti Home HOTEL $$$ o Hostel HOSTEL $$ ( %41573366; www.shantihome.com; SLEEPING (Map p68 ; %23360133; www.ywcaofdelhi.org; A-1/300 Janakpuri; r incl tax & breakfast from Ashoka Rd; dm ₹600, s/d incl tax & breakfast ₹8500; aiW; mJanakpuri West) Though in an ₹1485/2585; ai; mPatel Chowk) Despite off -the-radar location in , this is having an institutional vibe and hint close to the metro station and is a gorgeous

of eau de mothball, this Y (men and hotel with beautifully decorated rooms and women) is central and has reasonable an excellent rooftop restaurant. Spa treat- rooms. ments are available. LODI, DEFENCE COLONY & NIZAMUDDIN GUESTHOUSE $$ Master Guest House ITC Maurya HOTEL $$$ % ( 28741089; www.master-guesthouse.com; R-500 (Map p68 ; %26112233; www.starwoodhotels.com; New Rajendra Nagar; s/d incl tax & breakfast from Sardar Patel Marg; s/d ₹13,500/15,000; aiWs) ₹2500/3500; aiW; mRajendra Place) Run by This is where the Obamas stayed when they an obliging couple, this polished suburban were in town in 2010. In the diplomatic residence is somewhat out of the way, and enclave, it off ers all creature comforts, and has three thoughtfully furnished, character- excellent service. Luxuriate in high thread ful rooms with smart, spotless bathrooms. counts and dine at a clutch of sterling res- There’s a leafy rooftop terrace. taurants, including Bukhara. GUESTHOUSE $$$ Bajaj Indian Home Stay K-One One GUESTHOUSE $$ % ( 25736509; www.bajajindianhomestay.com; (Map p68 ; %43592583; www.parigold.com; K-11 8A/34 WEA Karol Bagh; s/d/tr incl tax & break- Jangpura Extn; s/d incl breakfast ₹3500/4000; ai m It fast ₹4000/5000/6300; ; Karol Bagh) aiW; mJangpura) Set in a peaceful enclave, doesn’t feel like a homestay, but this highly the four rooms are spacious and painted in professional place has 10 well-decorated jewel-bright hues, with good bathrooms and rooms. The tariff has almost doubled in LCD TVs, and there’s a cool roof terrace dot- recent years, but includes complimentary ted by red-painted pots. The owner off ers tea/coff ee, local telephone calls and airport the Parul Puri cooking lessons. transfers. There’s a rooftop restaurant. Colonel’s Retreat GUESTHOUSE $$ Ess Gee’s GUESTHOUSE $$ (Map p68 ; %9999720024; D-418, Defence Colony; % ( 5725403; www.essgees.net; 12/9 East Patel Na- s/d incl breakfast ₹3500/3800; aiW; mLajpat ai m gar; d incl breakfast ₹1250; ; Patel Nagar) Nagar) With four smart, nicely furnished An out-of-the-way, somewhat dowdy guest- rooms, this is a bright and well-kept option house (no signboard), with shrines in the in a Delhi suburb. It’s handily close to the hallways, this may bring back fond memo- metro. ries of grandma’s place – ask to look at a few of the rooms as some are better than others. Lutyens Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$$ (Map p68 ; %24625716; www.lutyensguesthouse. Yatri House GUESTHOUSE $$ com; 39 Prithviraj Rd; d incl tax & breakfast from % ( 23625563; www.yatrihouse.com; 3/4 Panch- ₹8000; aiWs; mRacecourse) This great kuian Marg; s/d from ₹4000/4500; aiW; mRK rambling house is an atmospheric green Ashram Marg) Central yet serene, Yatri is less oasis. The garden is great – lawns, fl owers homey than some of its peers, with spacious and fl uttering parrots – but rooms are basic, rooms that have fl at-screen TVs. It is fronted and rates have sky-rocketed in recent years, by a small garden and backed by a courtyard and it’s now absurdly overpriced. However, with wrought-iron furniture. Price includes it’s a good place to stay with kids. an airport pick-up and drop-off , free inter- net, local calls, tea and coff ee and afternoon snack. It’s only 200m to the metro. SOUTH DELHI to Mrs Kamte and she keeps the place in 86 oBnineteen GUESTHOUSE $$$ a gleaming condition. There are just two (Map p68 ; %41825500; www.bnineteen. rooms, each tasteful, antique-decorated com; B-19 Nizamuddin East; d from ₹7500; ai) and with small balconies; there’s a mid- Secluded, and located in fascinating Niza- night curfew. muddin East, with fabulous views over Devna GUESTHOUSE $$$ Humayun’s Tomb from the rooftop, this gor- o(Map p68 ; %24355047; www.newdelhi

DELHI geous place shows an architect’s touch. The boutiqueinns.com; 10 Sunder Nagar; d ₹5500; rooms are spacious and cool, and great for a) Fronted by a pretty garden, glori- long stayers, with a state-of-the-art shared ously pretty Devna is one of Delhi’s most kitchen on each fl oor. charismatic choices, with four curio- and antique-furnished rooms. Those opening Manor HOTEL $$$ onto the terrace upstairs are the best. (Map p78 ; %26925151; www.themanordelhi.com; 77 Friends Colony (West); d incl breakfast from AIRPORT AREA ₹8500; ai) If you’re looking for a more intimate alternative to Delhi’s opulent fi ve New Delhi Bed & Breakfast HOMESTAY $$ stars, this 16-room boutique hotel is it. Off ( %2689 4812; www.newdelhibedandbreakfast.com; Mathura Rd, set amid manicured lawns, C8/8225 Vasant Kunj; s/d ₹3000/3500; i) Renu Dayal’s welcoming homestay has two cosy the renovated bungalow combines contem- double rooms (one en suite) in her elegant porary luxury with caramel-hued elegance house in a leafy enclave, only 10 minutes’ that seems from another era. The restau- drive from the airport. rant, Indian Accent, is superb, and lush lawns and a sun-warmed terrace complete Inn at Delhi HOMESTAY $$ the picture. (Map p68 ; %24113234; www.innatdelhi.com; s/d ₹3500/4500; aiW) Between the city and Treetops GUESTHOUSE $$ the airport, in a smart area close to the dip- % (Map p78; 9899555704; [email protected]; lomatic enclave, this is a good choice for R-8, Hauz Khas Enclave; d incl breakfast ₹4000; single women. Your hosts are a professional aiW m The elegant home of a ; Hauz Khas) couple, the rooms are spacious and comfort- hospitable couple, journalist Murad Baig able and, upstairs, one has an impressive and his wife Tannie, who is a cookery writer wooden carved bed from Rajasthan. and teacher, this has two lovely large rooms opening onto a leafy roof terrace – truly in Chhoti Haveli HOMESTAY $$ the treetops. It’s minutes from the metro (Map p78 ; %2612 4880; http://chhotihaveli.com; and Tannie gives cookery lessons (see p78 ). A1006, Pocket A, Vasant Kunj; s/d ₹3100/3500; There’s a cheaper, single (also en suite) ai) Set in a block of low-rise apartments, room which occupies the apartment’s study in a quiet, leafy area near the airport, this (₹2500). Dinner is available (₹300). well-kept place off ers nicely decorated rooms; there are lots of plants, with little Amarya Haveli GUESTHOUSE $$$ touches such as petals adorning the steps. (Map p78 ; %41759267; www.amaryagroup.com; Hauz Khas Enclave; s/d ₹6500/6900; ai; Radisson Hotel HOTEL $$$ mHauz Khas) The French owners of Amarya ( %26779191; www.radisson.com/newdelhiin; Na- Haveli have created a haven in Hauz Khas, tional Hwy 8; s/d from ₹11,500/12,500; aiWs) a boutique place that is funkily furnished Radisson’s rooms are business-hotel comfort- with Indian artefacts, carved furniture and able. But oh, what a joy to lie down on soft textiles, and has an appealing roof terrace linen and orthopaedic beds after a long-haul swathed in pink and orange. They also fl ight. On site are Chinese, kebab and Italian opened in 2010 the even-more-chic Amarya restaurants. Villa (D-179 Defence Colony; mLajpat Nagar), with slightly more expensive rooms (same 5 Eating contact details). Delhiites love to eat, and visitors will fi nd plenty of delicious options, ranging from Home Away from Home HOMESTAY $$ ramshackle stalls serving delicious kebabs (Map p78 ; %26560289; [email protected]; to top-of-the-range temples of excellence. 1st fl, D-8 ; s/d incl breakfast from Most midrange and all upmarket restau- ₹2000/2200; a; mGreen Park) This stylish apartment, in a classy suburb, is home rants charge a service tax of around 10%, while drinks taxes can suck a further 20% 87 EAT & DUST

Pamela Timms is a Delhiite food writer and blogs at eatanddust.wordpress.com. She can sometimes be persuaded to do food walks in Old Delhi ([email protected]). Here are some of her top tips.

The Delhi street food I can never resist in the cooler months when Delhi’s (particularly DELHI Old Delhi’s) street food is at its most appealing: EATING » Daulat ki chaat, which is only available in the winter, is a not-too-sweet frothed milk,

whisked overnight and, allegedly, set with the morning dew. Vendors bearing huge EATING great platters of it can be seen all over Old Delhi from November to February. » Roasted and spiced sweet potato (shakarkandi) served with slices of star fruit, lime juice and masala is wonderful, available all over Delhi. » I find it very difficult to walk by the aloo tikka vendors. These deep-fried stuffed potato patties a great for filling awkward gaps between meals. » For possibly the best kebabs in Delhi, head to Moinuddin (Map p64 ; Lal Kuan nr crn Gali Qasimjan; mChawri Bazaar) for melt-in-the-mouth buffalo. » For a wonderful Korma, chicken and lamb, go to Ashok and Ashok (Map p64 ; 42 Subhas Chowk, Sadar Thana Rd, Sadar Bazaar, Old Delhi; mSadar Bazaar). » If you have a sweet tooth, stop at the old and famous Jalebiwala (p 88 ). Their deep fried fritters drenched in sugar syrup are about as good as sugar-hits get. » If kheer (rice pudding) is more to your taste, go to Bade Mian’s (Map p64 ; Lal Kuan; mChawri Bazaar) shop in Lal Kuan. » Also near Chawri Bazaar is the legendary Kuremal ice cream shop (Map p64 ; Kucha Pati Ram, off Sitaram Bazaar; mChawri Bazaar) with flavours such as mango, pomegranate and falsa.

(alcoholic) or 12.5% (nonalcoholic) from This clean, bright cafeteria-sweet shop is a your moneybelt. Taxes haven’t been includ- handy spot for a top-notch thali (₹156), chol- ed in this chapter unless indicated. ey bhature and other morsels, some tasty Telephone numbers have only been pro- South Indian cuisine, or namkin (savouries) vided for restaurants where reservations and mithai (sweets) on the dash. Try the are recommended. soan papadi (fl aky sweet with almond and pistachio). NORTH DELHI Chor Bizarre KASHMIRI $$ OLD DELHI % The following eateries are featured on Map ( 23273821; Hotel Broadway, 4/15 Asaf Ali Rd; h p 64 . mains ₹240-500; 7.30-10.30am, noon-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm; mNew Delhi) A dimly lit, atmo- Karim’s MUGHLAI $ spheric place, fi lled with eccentric clutter, (mains ₹27-110;h7am-midnight) Old Delhi Chor Bizarre (meaning ‘thieves market’) of- (mChawri Bazaar); Nizamuddin West (168/2 Jha fers particularly delicious Kashmiri cuisine. House Basti) Down a lane across from the It’s popular with tourists and locals Jama Masjid’s south gate (No 1), legendary Karim’s has been delighting Delhi folk with Paratha Wali Gali STREET FOOD $ (parathas ₹15-35; mChandni Chowk) Head to divine Mughlai cuisine since 1913. The chefs this foodstall-lined lane off Chandni Chowk prepare brutally good (predominantly non- for delectable parathas (traditional fl at veg) fare: try the burrah (marinated mut- bread) fresh off the tawa (hotplate). Stuff ed ton) kebab. There’s a newer branch close to varieties include aloo (potato), mooli Nizamuddin. (white radish), smashed pappadams and Haldiram’s FAST FOOD $$ crushed badam (almond), all served with a ( mains ₹50-140; h9.30am-10.30pm); Old Delhi splodge of tangy pickles. Some of the food- (Chandni Chowk; mChandni Chowk); Connaught stalls have seating. Place (Map p72 ; 6 L-Block; mRajiv Chowk) Jalebiwala STREET FOOD $ Tadka INDIAN $ 88 (Dariba Corner, Chandni Chowk; jalebis per kg (4986 Ram Dwara Rd; mains ₹70-85; hnoon-11pm) ₹250; mChandni Chowk) Calories schmalories! Nothing fl ash, but one of the best bets in Pa- Century-old Jalebiwala does Delhi’s – if not harganj: a simple, clean and tasty pure veg India’s – fi nest jalebis (deep-fried, syrupy restaurant. Try the saag paneer (spinach squiggles), so pig out and worry about your and cottage cheese) and Tadka dhal. waistline tomorrow. Malhotra MULTICUISINE $$

DELHI Al-Jawahar MUGHLAI $$ (1833 Laxmi Narayan St; mains ₹90-425) Snug, (mains ₹20-120; h7am-midnight; mChawri smartish Malhotra off ers tasty Indian, con- Bazaar) Next door to Karim’s, this offers tinental and Chinese food that keeps it busy brighter surroundings for Mughlai cuisine. with a mix of locals and backpackers. It serves similar and cheaper, if less legend- ary, fare (some swear it’s even better). You Sam’s Café MULTICUISINE $$ can watch the naan being deftly made at (Vivek Hotel, 1534-1550 Main Bazaar; mains ₹90- the front of the shop. 190) On Vivek Hotel’s ground fl oor and (much more atmospheric) rooftop, Sam’s

Moti Mahal NORTH INDIAN $$ does reasonble breakfasts and is a tranquil (%23273661; 3704 Netaji Subhash Marg, Darya- place to hang; it’s usually packed with trav- h This ganj; mains ₹110-250; noon-midnight) ellers. The pizzas are a good bet. faded, family-oriented restaurant has been wooing diners with its Indian food for Metropolis Restaurant & Bar MULTICUISINE $$$ some six decades. It’s famed for its butter (Metropolis Tourist Home, 1634 Main Bazaar; mains chicken and dhal Makhani. There’s live ₹225-500) On a rooftop, this crammed, hum- qawwali Wednesday to Monday (8pm– ming travellers’ haunt is one of the more midnight). upmarket in the area, with an encyclope- dic, have-a-go-at-anything menu. It serves Ghantewala SWEETS $ alcohol. (Chandni Chowk; mithai per kg from ₹220; mChandni Chowk) Delhi’s most famous Madan Café CAFE $ sweetery, ‘the bell ringer’ has been churn- (Main Bazaar; mains ₹20-45) Cash crisis? ing out mithai (Indian sweets) since 1790. Tuck into a basic thali for just ₹40 at this Try some (ghee-dipped gram basic veg cafe; outside tables are ideal for flour biscuits). watching the human traffic. Facing is the similar Khosla Café. Bikanerwala FAST FOOD $ (snacks ₹8-60; h7am-midnight; mChandni Kitchen Café CAFE $ Chowk) This bright little canteen offers (Hotel Shelton, 5043 Main Bazaar; mains ₹55-150) tasty snacks such as paratha (stuffed This cane-furnished, plant-strewn rooftop bread) and channa bhatura (spicy chick- restaurant is a relaxing place to kill time peas with fried puffed bread). over the usual world-ranging menu. PAHARGANJ AREA KAROL BAGH Yielding wobbly results, Paharganj’s menus Angan INDIAN $ are of the mix-it-up variety, serving anything (Map p64 ; Chowk Gurudwara Rd; mains ₹60-125; from Israeli to Italian, Mughlai to Mexican. mKarol Bagh) A small but buzzing canteen- The eateries are nothing fancy but are cheap style pitstop for Indian and South Indian and abuzz with chattering travellers. food, plus yummy snacks (try the channa The following places are along, or just bhatura). off , Main Bazaar (Map p76 ) and near the RK Roshan di Kulfi ICE CREAM $ Ashram Metro Stop. (Map p64 ; Gafal Market, Ajmal Khan Rd; kulfi ₹45; m A Delhi institution for its Sita Ram Dewan Chand STREET FOOD $ Karol Bagh) (2246 Chuna Mandi; half/full plate ₹17/30; h8am- scrumptious kulfi (pistachio-, cardamom- 6pm) Pran Kohli now runs this place, which or saffron-flavoured frozen milk dessert). his grandfather started over 60 years ago. Also has good golgappas (small fried It’s a basic and devoted to just one dish: bread filled with water, tamarind, chilli, chole (spicy chickpeas) accompanied by de- chaat masala, potato, onion and chick- licious, freshly made paratha stuff ed with peas) and lassi. spices and paneer. NEW DELHI & AROUND Zen CHINESE $$$ h A 89 CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA (25 B-Block; mains ₹229-400; 11am-11pm) The following eateries appear on Map p72 , high-ceilinged place with a dash of old-style unless otherwise indicated, and are closest to glitz – its walls are quilted like a Chanel Metro Rajiv Chowk, unless otherwise stated. handbag – this has a venerable Chinese menu, including tasty dishes such as crispy Saravana Bhavan SOUTH INDIAN $ sesame lamb and Szechwan prawns, with a o(mains ₹55-120; h8am-10.30pm) Con- few Japanese and Thai cameos. DELHI naught Place (15 P-Block); Janpath (Map p72 ; 46 EATING Janpath); Karol Bagh (Map p72 ; 8/54 Desh Bandhu Kwality INDIAN $$ m Massively popular, (7 Regal bdg; mains ₹200-350; hnoon-11pm)

Gupta Rd; Karol Bagh) EATING Tamil Saravana has a fast-food feel, but food Charmingly old-school, with its waiters is by no means junk: dosas, idlis and other clad in dark-red jackets, Kwality’s speciality southern specialities, accompanied by de- is channa bhatura, but you might want to lectable coconut chutneys. Inventive sweets try some other hits, such as malai kofta or include cucumber-seed ladoos (sweet balls). murgh malai kebab (chicken and cheese). A Finish with a South Indian coff ee. Kingfi sher beer will set you back a refresh- ing ₹90. Rajdhani INDIAN $$ (1/90 P-Block; thalis from ₹125-249; hnoon- Véda INDIAN $$$ 3.30pm & 7-11pm) Opposite PVR Rivoli Cin- ( %41513535; 27 H-Block; mains ₹300-700; hnoon- ema, this pristine, nicely decorated two-level midnight) Head here for atmosphere: fashion place serves up excellent-value delicious designer Rohit Baal created this sumptu- vegetarian Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis, to ous interior – dim red lighting, neo-Murano grateful local and foreign punters. chandeliers, and twisted gold-a-go-go. Mugh- lai and North West Frontier specialities are Nizam’s Kathi Kabab FAST FOOD $$ on the menu (try the tandoori grilled lamb (5 H-Block; kebabs ₹110-150) This takeaway eat- chops or the Parsi sea bass). A DJ plays (loud- ery has some seating and creates masterful ly) in the lounge bar. They also do a mean kebabs and kathi rolls (kebab wrapped in margharita. paratha). It’s always busy with kebab-loving hoards. Wenger’s BAKERY $ (16 A-Block; cakes/pizza from ₹40/85; h10.45am- Andhra Pradesh Bhawan 7.45pm) Legendary Wenger’s has been baking Canteen SOUTH INDIAN $ since 1926 when it was opened by a South (Map p68 ; 1 Ashoka Rd; veg thalis ₹80; hnoon- African expat. It’s always buzzing and there’s 3pm; mPatel Chowk) A hallowed bargain: tasty a great array of sweet and savoury treats, in- unlimited South Indian thalis at cheap-as- cluding perfect patties. chips prices; nonveg is also available. It’s canteen-style, delicious and hugely popular. Sagar Ratna SOUTH INDIAN $ (dishes ₹60-120); Connaught Place (15 K-Block; Chinese CHINESE $$$ mains ₹60-120); Defency Colony (Map p78 ; 18 ( %65398888; 14/15 F-Block; mains ₹300-1200; Defence Colony Market;mLajpat Nagar) Another hlunch & dinner) Popular with Chinese diplo- dosa dreamland, with expertly prepared mats, here the Hunan chef serves up authen- dosas, idlis, uttapams (savoury rice tic cuisine, such as Hunan smoked lamb or pancakes) and other smashing southern gong boa ji ding (chicken with onion, chilli, goodies, plus thalis. peanut and hot garlic sauce) in a wow-factor Embassy INDIAN $$ calligraphy-decorated interior. (11 D-Block; mains ₹160-380; h10am-11pm) United Coffee House MULTICUISINE $$$ A long-time favourite, gracious and old- (15 E-Block; mains ₹300-400; h10am-midnight) fashioned, featuring Indian and continen- Oozing old-world charm and full of charac- tal creations. ters that look as elderly as the fi xtures and Z āffrān MUGHLAI $$$ fi ttings, this classic 1940s restaurant is a (mains ₹230-400; hnoon-3.30pm & 7pm- splendid spot to slow the pace. It has a long midnight); Connaught Place (%43582610; Hotel menu covering everything from pizza to pa- Palace Heights, 26-28 D-Block); Greater Kailash neer (cottage cheese). Try the butter chicken. (Map p78 ; 2 N-Block) An excellent restaurant It’s great for an afternoon drink too (small serving Mughlai cuisine and designed to Kingfi sher ₹165). feel like a bamboo-shuttered terrace. Kake-da-Hotel MUGHLAI $$ Lodi Garden Restaurant MEDITERRANEAN $$$ 90 (%9136666820; 74 M-Block; mains ₹80-110; (Lodi Rd; mains ₹395-895; hlunch & dinner; mJor h11.30am-midnight) This simple dhaba Bagh) Set in an elegant garden shaded by (snack bar) is a basic hole in the wall trees hung with lanterns, and with a foun- that’s popular with local workers for its tain made out of watering cans, beside Lodi butter chicken and other Mughlai Punjabi Garden. The menu and clientele are remark- dishes. ably non-Indian, but it’s good for Mediter-

DELHI ranean and Lebanese cuisine (think lamb Kerala House SOUTH INDIAN $ chops with and tamarind, and herb- (3 Jantar Mantar Rd; meal ₹30; h1-3pm; mPatel crusted Manali trout). Brunch (₹1399) is Chowk) The staff canteen at Kerala House was, at the time of writing, housed in part available at weekends. of the underground car park, but don’t All American Diner FAST FOOD $$ let this put you off. It’s open to the public (India Habitat Centre, Lodi Rd; mains ₹120-270; and tasty meals here are a bargain, includ- mJLN Stadium) Make like it’s 1950s USA and ing unlimited rice, sambar, a couple of veg head down to the cherry-red booths and bar dishes and pickle. stools of the All American, to eat stars-and- Tao PAN-ASIAN $$$ stripes classics, from buttermilk pancakes (8 E-Block; mains ₹189-429; h11am-11pm) Sleek to hot dogs, and work the jukebox. Or try and swish, but with something of the feel the Habitat’s cheap-and-cheerful food court of an upmarket airport dining option, this Eatopia, with good chaat, Chinese and In- is a popular place for its dim sum, Japa- dian food. nese, Thai and Chinese cuisine. Pandara Market INDIAN $$$ Nirula’s ICE CREAM $ ( mKhan Market) This market has a little (14 K-Block Connaught Place) Drop into Niru- horseshoe of restaurants popular among la’s for its hot chocolate fudge ice cream, night owls – most are open daily from noon every Delhiite’s favourite flavour. to 1am or 2am. Highlights: Pindi (mains ₹130- 370), serving tasty Mughlai Punjabi food DIPLOMATIC ENCLAVE & CHANAKYAPURI AREA since 1948; Gulati (mains ₹140-480), which Bukhara NORTH INDIAN $$$ has a North Indian focus amid the beige and (Map p68 ; %26112233; ITC Maurya, Sadar Patel mirrored decor; Chicken Inn (mains ₹150- Marg; mains ₹600-800; hlunch & dinner; a) Con- sidered Delhi’s best restaurant, this rustic 430) fl asher than the name suggests, and a place serves Northwest Frontier-style cui- popular choice for Indian and Chinese; and sine. Its tandoor and dhal are particularly Havemore (mains ₹160-390), a snug, smart- renowned. Clinton and Obama have eaten ish spot, serving Indian food with a vener- here. Reservations are essential (taken be- able veg selection. tween 7pm and 8pm). SOUTH DELHI

Monsoon INDIAN $$$ KHAN & SUNDER NAGAR MARKETS (Map p68 ; %23710101; Le Meridien, Janpath; mains If you’re shopping at the Khan (mKhan Mar- around ₹600-1000; a; mPatel Chowk) With ket) or Sunder Nagar Markets, there are waterfall plate-glass windows, this is a wow- some great places to top up your tank. factor restaurant for sampling some creative Indian cuisine. Enjoy beautifully presented, Amici ITALIAN $$$ taste-sensation dishes such as millefeuille (Map p68 ; Khan Market; mains₹300-400; hlunch of sole with mint chutney, and sumptuous & dinner) This sleek, calm jewel of a cafe pistachio kulfi to fi nish off . serves up splendid pizzas and tasty burg- ers. It has a soothing biscuit-coloured walls Dhaba PUNJABI $$$ and a palpable sense of style. The only thing (Map p68 ; %23010211; The Claridges, Chanakyapu- missing is a booze licence. ri, 12 Aurangzeb Rd; mains ₹400-500; h11.30am- 4pm & 7pm-midnight) Claridges does Punjabi Sidewok ASIAN FUSION $$$ highway cuisine, complete with kitsch ‘road- (Map p68 ; %46068122; Khan Market; mains ₹225- side’ decor (try the balti meat and fi sh or 475; h11am-11.30pm) Sleek Sidewok dishes up chicken tikka). top-notch Asian cuisine, amid dark slatted wood and Japanese minimalism. Try the de- LODI COLONY & PANDARA MARKET licious Vietnamese spring rolls. The eateries below feature on Map p68 . Khan Chacha MIDDLE EASTERN $$ HAUZ KHAS AREA (Map p68 ; Khan Market; snacks ₹110-160; hnoon- oGunpowder SOUTH INDIAN $$ 91 11pm) Chacha has gone chi-chi, the prices (Map p78 ; %26535700; 22 Hauz Khas Vil- have doubled, and it has lost something of lage; mains ₹80-300; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue- its original charm in the process. But all is Sun; mHauz Khas) You reach this cool place not lost – it still turns out pretty lipsmack- up numerous fl ights to the 3rd fl oor. The ing roti-wrapped mutton/chicken/paneer. setting is great: a simple room with wicker chairs that opens onto huge views over the There is now plentiful seating, set under DELHI nail-formed lamps that look like torture greenery of Hauz Khas. The food is fi t to EATING implements. match, with dishes such as Kerala-style veg-

etable korma, toddy-shop meen (fi sh) curry, EATING Mamagoto ASIAN FUSION $$$ and sweet-and-sour pumpkin. Bookings are (Map p68 ; %45166060; 1st fl , Middle Lane, Khan essential. Market; mains ₹325-500; h12.30pm-12.30am) The name means ‘to play with food’ in Japa- Evergreen INDIAN $ nese, the decor is prettily kitsch and the (Map p78 ; S29-30 Green Park Market; mains food is fun – a meal can span snow peas and ₹50-115; h8am-10.30pm; mGreen Park) Since green bean salad, lamb sticky rice and date 1963 Evergreen has been keeping punters rolls with vanilla ice cream. happy with its snacks, chaat and South Indian dishes. It’s a hugely popular, bright, Baci ITALIAN $$$ clean two-level place that’s perfect for a (Map p68 ; %41507445; Sunder Nagar Market; quick lunch or dinner. mains ₹360-700; h11am-1am) Reasonable Ital- ian cuisine and good coff ee is served up VASANT VIHAR here in grown-up surroundings, either at Punjabi by Nature PUNJABI $$$ the informal cafe or in the sleek upstairs res- (Map p78 ; %41516666; Basant Lok complex; taurant. On Thursday there’s live jazz from mains ₹425-650; h12.30pm-1am) Served 8pm. Cocktails are ₹385. against a masculine backdrop featuring murals of turbaned men, this place offers

Kitchen PAN-ASIAN $$ ravishingly delicious Punjabi food. Mop % (Map p68; 41757960; Khan Market; mains up flavour-packed sauces with rumali roti A buzzing, small, backstreet ₹269-399) (paper-thin chapatis) or thick garlic naan. all-rounder, simply and chicly decorated. Go on, try the vodka golgappas! Kitchen offers tasty dishes such as Thai red curry with rice, yummy pad thai and Arabian Nites KEBAB $$ fine fish and chips. (Map p78 ; 59 Basant Lok complex; snacks ₹70- h This teeny takeaway 230; 10.30am-11pm) Nathu’s INDIAN $ (there are a few inside seats) does mighty ( mains ₹27-105); Sunder Nagar (Map p68; Sunder good chicken shawarma. Nagar Market); Connaught Place (Map p64 ; 23-25 Bengali Market) Famous sweet shop serv- GREATER KAILASH I ing up yummy chaat (snacks), namkin Moti Mahal MUGHLAI $$ (savouries) and mithai (sweets), plus good (Map p78 ; 30 M-Block; mains ₹140-450; hlunch thalis (₹130). & dinner Wed-Mon) Smarter than the Old Delhi original and popular with well-off Sweets Corner SWEETS & SNACKS $ families for its North Indian and Mughlai (Map p68 ; Sunder Nagar Market; mains ₹16-90) Next door to Nathu’s, this is another popu- cooking. lar canteen-style eaterie, with a terrace out GREATER KAILASH II the front where local families tuck into Diva ITALIAN $$$ chaat, sweets, South Indian dishes and (Map p78 ; %29215673; M-Block; mains ₹500-950; thalis. hlunch & dinner) Chef Ritu Dalmia’s molto chic Basil & Thyme ITALIAN $$$ Italian restaurant is an intimate space on two (Map p68 ; Santushti Enclave; mains ₹375- levels, with white tablecloths, plate-glass win- 435;h11am-6pm Mon-Sat) A chic yet simple dows, and a wood-fi red oven behind glass. white-washed restaurant that buzzes with Cooking is superlative, imaginative and deli- expats and locals, here for the reasonable cious. Avanti! Mediterranean cooking. Smokehouse Grill MULTICUISINE $$$ (Map p78 ; %41435530; 2 VIPPS Center, LSC Masjid Moth; mains around ₹600-800; h7.30pm-1am) Another uberhip hangout, suff used in mini- starts, particularly from Wednesday to Sat- 92 malist chic, with lots of good, smoked(!) food urday night. A smart-casual dress code (no on the menu. Try the smoked melon mojitos, shorts, vests or fl ip-fl ops) applies at most and leave room for the divine chocolate souf- places. fl é. On Friday and Saturday nights there’s a The fancier bars are overfl owing with do- DJ playing everything from ’80s to Bhangra. mestic and foreign booze, but taxes can pack a nasty punch (alcoholic 20%, nonalcoholic Not Just Parathas NORTH INDIAN $$

DELHI 12.5%); taxes aren’t included here unless h (Map p78; 84 M-Block; dishes ₹80-300; noon- stated. Most bars have two-for-one happy Yes, this cheery place off ers not just midnight) hours from around noon till 8pm or on parathas but, with 120 types on the menu,

certain days. you’ve gotta go for the speciality, be they Tawa-fried or roasted tandoori and stuff ed NEW DELHI & AROUND with palak (spinach), chicken tikka or aloo Latitude CAFE gobi (potato and caulifl ower), to name a few. (Map p68 ; Khan Market; h11.30am-10.30pm; DEFENCE COLONY & FRIENDS COLONY mKhan Market) Above the exclusively priced oIndian Accent INDIAN $$$ Good Earth homewares store, this is Khan (Map p78 ; %26925151; Manor Hotel, Market’s prettiest cafe, with sparkly chan- 77 Friends Colony; tasting menu veg/nonveg deliers and handpainted walls. It’s a good ₹1875/1975) Overlooking the hotel veranda place for a chi-chi light lunch and to pretend and lush lawns, this is a remarkable restau- you’re not in Delhi. rant with inspired creative Indian cuisine. Expect starters such as baked paneer pin- Café Turtle CAFE wheel and indian coriander pesto, and main Greater Kailash Part I (Map p78 ; N-Block); Khan dishes such as masala wild mushrooms and Market (Map p68 ; 2nd fl , Full Circle Bookstore; water chestnut paper-roast dosai. h9.30am-9.30pm; mKhan Market) This book- ish, boho cafe ticks all the boxes when you’re Swagath SOUTH INDIAN $$$ in the mood for coff ee and gateau (the ‘goo- (Map p78 ; Defence Colony Market; mains ₹235-645; ey chocolate cake’ is a triumph). h11am-midnight; mLajpat Nagar) Supremely scrumptious Indian fare with a focus on Big Chill CAFE Mangalorean and Chettinad cuisine (espe- (Map p68 ; Khan Market; hnoon-11.30pm; mKhan cially seafood), this smart six-fl oor restau- Market) Khan Market has two fi lm-poster- rant swarms with well-heeled locals, here lined branches of BC, packed with chatter- for the excellent dhal-e-Swagath (lentil ing, well-manicured, wholesome folk. The curry), delicious surmai rawas (fi sh), butter menu is a telephone directory of continen- pepper garlic, butter chicken and similarly tal, Indian and other dishes. satiating dishes. Café Oz CAFE (Map p68 ; Khan Market; h9am-midnight; mKhan SAKET & MEHRAULI Market) A busy Australian cafe, this has Olive MEDITERRANEAN $$$ reasonable food and Delhi’s best coffee, % (Map p78; 29574443; One Style Mile, Mehrauli; including flat whites. tasting lunch menu from ₹495, dinner mains from ₹575; hnoon-12pm; mQutab Minar) Uberchic, Indian Coffee House CAFE the original Olive has reopened, much to (Map p72 ; Mohan Singh Place; h9am-9pm; mRajiv the delight of the Delhi in-crowd. The haveli Chowk) Stuck-in-time Indian Coff ee House setting, decorated in rustic beach-house is down at heel, but serves up basic, cheap chic, with its mismatched antiques, is unlike snacks and south Indian coff ee (₹13!) and anywhere else in Delhi. As well as creative has a 2nd-fl oor terrace. Mediterranean dishes, the menu includes PAHARGANJ pasta and pizzas – as tasty as the clientele. The following are on Map p76 , and close to Metro RK Ashram. 6 Drinking Whether it’s cappuccino and pastries for Open Hand Cafe CAFE breakfast, or beer and kebabs for supper, (Main Bazaar; h8am-10pm; mRK Ashram Marg) Delhi’s cool cafes and buzzing bars deliver. Bringing a touch of class to Paharganj, this Most Delhi bars double up as both restau- South African-owned, two-level cafe has a rants and nightclubs. The scene might not chic, arty feel, sculptural chairs, good coff ee be huge, but as the sun goes down, the party and yummy cheesecake. Gem BAR Q’BA BAR (Main Bazaar) In this dark, wood-panelled (1st fl , 42 E-Block) Connaught Place’s swishest 93 dive, a large Kingfi sher costs a bargain ₹102 watering hole has a Q-shaped bar, dim light- (including tax). Upstairs has more atmo- ing, leather chairs and Chesterfi eld sofas. sphere. The snacks are good too. Upstairs is the fi ne-dining restaurant (from 7pm) and there’s a roof terrace, ideal on sul- My Bar BAR try evenings. (Main Bazaar; h10am-12.30pm) Another dark DELHI and dingy bar where the main charm is the 24/7 BAR DRINKING cheap beer (Kingfi sher costs ₹72 for 330ml) (Lalit Hotel, Maharaja Rajit Singh Marg; h24hr) and the chance to hang out with other back- Every now and again, a 24-hour bar comes packers. in extremely handy. This is at the Lalit ho- DRINKING tel, so if you’re hankering after a Martini at Metropolis Restaurant & Bar BAR 5am you can drink it somewhere defi antly

(Metropolis Tourist Home, 1634 Main Bazaar; unseedy. h7am-11pm) This hotel’s rooftop restaurant is a breezier choice than Gem, with al fresco Costa CAFE drinking on its terrace and a 330cl King- (Map p72 ; L-Block, Connaught Place; h9am-11pm; fi sher for ₹80. mRajiv Chowk) Arguably the best of the cof- fee chains, a dapper downtown cafe with CONNAUGHT PLACE AREA strong coff ee, delicate teas, English-toff ee The following venues are located on Map milkshakes and good cakes. p72 , close to Metro Rajiv Chowk, and most have happy hours during the daytime. Café Coffee Day CAFE Connaught Place (Map p72 ; 11 N-Block, Connaught 1911 BAR Place; h9am-11pm; mRajiv Chowk); Khan Mar- (Imperial Hotel, Janpath) Named after the year ket (Map p68 ; mKhan Market). You know what in which Delhi was proclaimed British In- you’re getting at CCD: cappuccinos, Ameri- dia’s capital, this is the ultimate neocolonial canised cheery staff and brownies. But treat. Sip cocktails, while being overlooked sometimes that’s what you need. Citywide by oil-painted Maharajas (drinks ₹650 plus). branches galore.

Aqua BAR Pind Balluchi BAR (Park Hotel, 15 Parliament St; h11am-1am) A chic (Regal Bldg;hnoon-11pm) This location has un- poolside bar, this see-and-be-seen place is a dergone yet another makeover, and this time perfect bolthole after visiting Jantar Mantar emerged as a high-kitsch ‘village restaurant’ or shopping in Connaught Place. There’s complete with a fake central tree. It still has seating overlooking the pool, or white-clad, possibly CP’s cheapest beers and cocktails curtained daybeds on which to lounge. A (Kingfi sher ₹120, cocktails from ₹120). Kingfi sher costs ₹225, and you can munch on mezze, kebabs or Lebanese snacks. Blues BAR (18 N-Block) A dark den with reasonably Cha Bar CAFE priced beers. The brick walls are plastered (Map p72 ; Oxford Bookstore, Statesman House, 148 with the likes of Jimi Hendrix and other less- Barakhamba Rd; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, noon- recognisable fi gures. With its cheerily unhip 7.30pm Sun; mBarakhamba Rd) After browsing soundtrack (think Sonny and Cher), this is a at the Oxford, pop into Cha for a tea with lively, snob-free zone. a view (over CP). More than 75 fl avours to Rodeo BAR choose from, and the blueberry muffi ns are (12 A-Block) In the mood for saloon doors, fab too. tequila, saddle barstools and staff in @live LIVE MUSIC cowboy hats? Then easygoing Rodeo is for (12 K-Block) Intimate and smart without be- you, partner. Cocktails cost from ₹275, but ing formal, @live has a cool gimmick: a live give the nachos a miss. jukebox. The band plays from 8.30pm, and there’s a song menu, so you choose the songs SOUTH DELHI from a list including the Bee Gees, Bob Dylan The following drinking venues are on Map and Sir Cliff . The band mightn’t be the most p78 . dynamic you’ve seen, but they’re great, and Kunzum Travel Cafe CAFE it’s a fun night out (food’s good too). (Map p78 ; Hauz Khas Village; h11am-7.30pm Tue- Sun; W; mHauz khas) This unique cafe is run by travel authors and photographers and Attic CULTURAL PROGRAM 94 has a pay-what-you-like policy, self-service (Map p72 ; %23746050; www.theatticdelhi.org; French-press coff ee and tea, and travel 36 Regal bdg; mRajiv Chowk) Small arts space, books and magazines to browse. You can with regular free classical concerts and talks. also BYO drinks and food and put your iPod There are also explorations of forgotten foods in the dock! and ‘food meditation’ (where participants eat in silence and then have a discussion) – these Love Hotel BAR

DELHI sessions cost ₹100 and should be booked in h m (2nd fl , MGF Metropolitan Mall; 1pm-1am; Saket) advance. In a mall, but worth seeking out nonethe- less: the Love Hotel adjoins Ai, an exclusive, Dances of India DANCE

popular and chic Japanese restaurant, and (Map p64 ; %26234689; Parsi Anjuman Hall, Ba- occupies a little open terrace. The food is ex- hadur Shah Zafar Marg; ₹400; h6.45pm) A one- cellent and the atmosphere is best here when hour performance of regional dances that there’s a party going on – check local listings includes Bharata Natyam (Tamil dance), for what’s on. Cocktails cost around ₹400. Kathakali, bhangra and Manipuri.

Shalom BAR Haze LIVE MUSIC Greater Kailash I (18 N-Block; hnoon-1am); Vasant (8 Basant Lok, Visant Vihar; h3pm-midnight) A Vihar (4 D-Block) This loungey bar–restaurant, hip yet unpretentious haunt, this moody, with wooden furniture and whitewashed intimate, inexpensive jazz bar has real soul walls, is one of the doyennes of the Delhi and is the place to see live Indian blues and loungebar scene. As well as wine, beers, jazz at weekends. cocktails (around ₹400) and nightly DJs, Habitat World CULTURAL PROGRAM there’s top-notch Mediterranean fare. (Map p68 ; %43663333; www.habitatworld.com; India Habitat Centre, Lodi Rd) Check out the Urban Pind BAR Visual Arts Gallery’s excellent temporary (4 N-Block, Greater Kailash I; hnoon-1am) Three- fl oored, this has cushy fl ocked sofas, mock- exhibitions. Khajuraho carvings and nightly DJs. Tuesday India International Centre CULTURAL PROGRAM is Salsa night, with free lessons from 9pm, (Map p68 ; %24619431; 40 Max Mueller Marg) while expats and diplomats fl ock on a Thurs- The IIC holds regular free exhibitions, day for the all-you-can-drink deal. talks and cultural performances.

Red Monkey BAR PVR Plaza Cinema CINEMA (%24618358; 7 Defence Colony Market; h4pm- (Map p72 ; %41516787; H-Block, Connaught Place) 1am; mLajpat Nagar) A small cosy bar, this is PVR Priya Cinema CINEMA a buzzy if unexciting choice in the Defence Colony. Cocktails cost ₹300-500 and it’s (Map p78; www.pvrcinemas.com; Basant Lok worth making it for happy Monday, where complex, Vasant Vihar) it’s two-for-one. PVR Saket (Anupam 4) CINEMA (Map p78 ; www.pvrcinemas.com; Saket Commu- 3 Entertainment nity Centre, Saket) To access Delhi’s dynamic arts scene, check local listings (see p 98). October and March 7 Shopping is the ‘season’, with happenings (often free) From bamboozling bazaars to bijoux bou- nightly. tiques, Delhi is a fantastic place to shop. There’s an astounding array of wonderful TLR LIVE MUSIC stuff : handicrafts, textiles, clothing, carpets, (www.tlrcafe.com; Hauz Khas Village; h11am-1am; jewellery and a kaleidoscope of saris. mHauz Khas) Delhi’s coolest and most boho Away from the emporiums and other hangout, TLR (The Living Room) is in laid- fi xed-price shops, put on your haggle hat. back Hauz Khas Village. It’s worth the trek: Many taxi and autorickshaw drivers earn a 2nd-fl oor bar with live music, jam sessions commissions (via your infl ated purchase and other events from 9pm most evenings. price) and may not take you to the most It has a tiny stage complete with a three- reputable stores, either, making it best to piece suite. Meals are also available and decline their shopping suggestions. cocktails cost from ₹400. If there’s some- For dependable art gallery recommenda- thing on, book a table or arrive early. tions (many of which sell exhibits), check First City and Time Out. OLD DELHI’S BAZAARS 95 Old Delhi’s bazaars (Map p64 ; mChandni Chowk) are a headspinning assault on the sens- es: an aromatic muddle of fl owers, urine, incense, chai, fumes and frying food. They’re busiest (and best avoided) on Monday and Friday and during other afternoons. Come at around 11.30am when most shops have opened and the jostling is bearable. For silver jewellery (some gold) head for Dariba Kalan, near the Sisganj Gurdwara. DELHI Nearby Kinari Bazaar (literally ‘trimmings market’) is famous for zari (gold-thread weav- SHOPPING ing) and zardozi (gold embroidery), and is the place to head for your bridal trousseau. The cloth market sells swathes of uncut material and linen, while electrical gadgets are the SHOPPING speciality of Lajpat Rai Market. Chowri Bazaar is the wholesale paper and greeting- card market. Nearby, Nai Sarak deals in wholesale stationery, books and saris. Near the Fatehpuri Masjid, on , is the nose-numbing Spice Market, ablaze with powdery piles of scarlet-red chilli powder and burnt-orange turmeric, as well as pickles, tea and nuts. As it’s a wholesale market, spices here rarely come hermetically sealed – for these, go to Roopak’s in Karol Bagh. The Daryaganj Book Market, north of Delhi Gate, is a bookworm’s delight (Sunday afternoons).

NORTH DELHI Roopak’s (6/9 Ajmal Khan Rd), two neighbour- Chandni Chowk CLOTHING ing shops with similar spices (around ₹60 to (Map p64 ; Old Delhi; hMon-Sat; mChandni ₹100 per 100g and well packed). Chowk) Pure pandemonium, this is the old city’s famed shopping strip, with endless CONNAUGHT PLACE haphazard traffi c, stores selling a mish- Central Cottage Industries mash of saris, Nehru suits, glittering shoes Emporium HANDICRAFTS and electrical goods. There are roadside (Map p72 ; %23326790; Janpath; mRajiv Chowk) tailors and locksmiths, hawkers selling This government-run, fi xed-price multilevel birdseed, labourers catching a snooze amid Aladdin’s cave of India-wide handicrafts the chaos and half-dead dogs everywhere is a great place to shop: woodcarvings, sil- you look. Some stores open from around verware, jewellery, pottery, papier mâché, 10am to 7pm, others from noon to 9pm. brassware, textiles (including shawls), beau- ty products and heaps more. New Gramophone House MUSIC STORE (Map p64 ; %23271524; Pleasure Garden Market; State Emporiums HANDICRAFTS h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; mChandni Chowk) Oppo- (Map p72 ; Baba Kharak Singh Marg; h11am-7pm site Moti Cinema, this is a 1st-fl oor wonder- Mon-Sat; mRajiv Chowk) These neighbouring land of vintage records (₹50 to state government emporiums showcase ₹200) and even older gramophones. products from diff erent states, from Ra- jasthan to Bihar. Set aside several hours for Main Bazaar MARKET these fabulous shops. (Map p76 ; Paharganj; haround 10am-9pm Tue-Sun; mRK Ashram Marg) The backpacker-oriented Shop CLOTHING & HOMEWARES spine of Paharganj is the perfect place to (Map p72 ; 10 Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; h9.30am- pick up bargains in the form of T-shirts, 7pm Mon-Sat; mRajiv Chowk) There are lovely bags, costume jewellery, essential oils, in- homewares and clothes (including chil- cense and more. Although the Main Ba- dren’s clothes) from all over India in this zaar is offi cially closed on Monday, many of chic boutique with reasonable fi xed prices. the shops remain open during the tourist season. SKhadi Gramodyog Bhawan HANDICRAFTS Karol Bagh Market MARKET (Map p72 ; Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; h10.30am- (Map p64 ; haround 10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mKarol 7.15pm Mon-Sat; mRajiv Chowk) Best known Bagh) This brash middle-class market shim- for its excellent khadi (homespun cloth) mers with all things sparkly, from dressy clothing, including good-value shawls, but lehanga choli (skirt-and-blouse sets) to also worth a visit for its handmade paper, princess-style shoes. Get spice-happy at incense, spices, henna and lovely natural soaps. Oxford Bookstore SOUTH DELHI 96 (Statesman House) BOOKSTORE Khan Market MARKET (Map p72 ; 14 G-Block, Connaught Place; h10am- (Map p68 ; haround 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; mKhan 9.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9.30pm Sun; mRajiv Market) Favoured by expats and Delhi’s elite, Chowk) A fantastic bookshop where you the boutiques in this enclave are devoted to could spend hours. It also sells some good fashion, books, homewares, and gourmet gro- gifts, such as handmade paper notebooks. ceries. For handmade paperware check out

DELHI Attached is the Cha Bar. Anand Stationers. For a fantastic range of English-language fi ction and nonfi ction head People Tree HANDICRAFTS S(Map p72 ; Regal Bldg, Sansad Marg; to Full Circle Bookstore and Bahri Sons. h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; mRajiv Chowk) The There’s a TARDIS-like branch of Fabindia blink-and-you’ll-miss-it People Tree sells (p 97 ), Anokhi, wow-factor homewares store cool, etching-style or embroidered T-shirts, Good Earth (featuring London-style prices) many featuring Indian gods, as well as and the excellent Silverline, which does at- skirts, dresses, shirts (for men and women), tractive, reasonable silver and gold jewellery. shoulder bags, costume jewellery and Dilli Haat HANDICRAFTS books. (Map p78 ; Aurobindo Marg; admission ₹15; Soma HOMEWARES h10.30am-10pm; mINA) Located opposite the (Map p72 ; 1st fl, 44 K-Block, Connaught Place; colourful INA Market, this open-air food- h10am-8pm; mRajiv Chowk) Situated and-crafts market sells regional handicrafts; opposite PVR Plaza Cinema, 1st-floor bargain hard. Tasty on-site food stalls cook Soma stocks brilliant block-printed tex- up regionally diverse cuisine. Avoid the busy tiles at reasonable prices: anything from weekends. scarves to pyjamas, cushion covers to children’s clothing. Hauz Khas Village ANTIQUES & CLOTHING (Map p78 ; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; mHauz Khas) Marques & Co MUSIC STORE This arty little enclave is packed with de- (Map p72 ; 14 G-Block, Connaught Place; signer Indian-clothing boutiques, art gal- h10.30am-1.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat; mRajiv leries and furniture shops. It’s a great place Chowk) This vintage music shop (since 1918) to fi nd superb old Bollywood posters. Try houses polished guitars (from ₹3000), Country Collection for antique and new tablas (from ₹6000) and harmonicas (from furniture (they’ll post overseas), and Cotton ₹300) in stuck-in-time glass cabinets. Sheet Curios for handprinted kameez (women’s music is also available. tunics) and soft furnishings.

Janpath Market MARKET C Lal & Sons HANDICRAFTS h (Map p72; Janpath; 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; (Map p68 ; 9/172 Jor Bagh Market; h10.30am- m Aka the Tibetan Market, Rajiv Chowk) 7.30pm; mJor Bagh) After sightseeing at this touristy strip sells the usual trinkets: Safdarjang’s tomb, drop into kindly Mr Lal’s shimmering mirrorwork textiles, colourful ‘curiosity shop’. Much loved by Delhi-based shawls, brass oms, and dangly earrings diplomats for its dazzling Christmas-tree and trinkets galore. It has some good decorations, it also sells handicrafts such as finds if you rummage through the junk. papier mâché and carvings. Haggle hard. Timeless BOOKSTORE Rikhi Ram MUSIC STORE (Map p78 ; %24693257; 46 Housing Society, Part I) (%23327685; www.rikhiram.com; 8A G-Block, Hidden in a back lane (ask around), Time- Connaught Place; h11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; less has a devoted following for its quality m A beautiful old shop, sell- Rajiv Chowk) coff ee-table books, from Indian textiles to ing professional classic and electric sitars, architecture. tablas and more. Sarojini Nagar Market CLOTHING M Ram & Sons CLOTHING h m % (Map p78; around 11am-8pm Tue-Sun; INA) (Map p72; 23416558; 21 E-Block, Connaught Rummage here for good-value Western-style Place; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; mRajiv Chowk) Men’s suits from ₹4000 (excluding mate- clothes (seek out the lanes lined exclusively rial), ladies long skirts from ₹500 (exclud- with clothing stalls) that have been dumped ing material). Tailoring is possible in 24 here either because they were an export hours. surplus or from a cancelled line. Check for faults. Bargain hard. Sunder Nagar Market HANDICRAFTS, TEA Lajpat Nagar Central Market MARKET (Map p68 ; haround 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) (Map p78 ; haround 11am-8pm Tue-Sun; mLajpat 97 Just south of Purana Qila, this genteel en- Nagar) This market attracts bargain- clave specialises in Indian and Nepali handi- hunting locals on the prowl for household crafts and ‘antiques’ (most are replicas). goods, clothing and jewellery. Look out There are two outstanding teashops here: for the local mehndiwallahs, who paint Regalía Tea House (h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, beautiful henna designs.

11am-5pm Sun); and its neighbour Mittal Tea DELHI Delhi Musical Stores MUSIC STORE 8 h House ( 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4.30pm (Map p64 ; %23276909; www.indianmusical . They stock similar products and off er Sun) instruments.com; 1070 Paiwalan, Old Delhi; complimentary tea tastings. There’s plenty 8 INFORMATION h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; mPatel Chowk) Op- on off er, from fragrant Kashmiri kahwa posite Jama Masjid’s Gate No 3. Check (green tea with cardamom; ₹110 per 100g) the website for details. to the fi nest of teas, Vintage Musk (₹700 per 100g) and Royal Muscatel (₹600 per OCM Suitings CLOTHING 100g). The white tea (₹600/350 per 100g (Map p68 ; %24618937; Khan Market; h11am- organic/nonorganic) is said to contain more 8pm Mon-Sat; mKhan Market) Men’s wool antioxidants than green tea, while dragon suits from ₹9000 to ₹22,000 (including balls (₹35-80 each) are a visual thrill when material); ankle-length skirts from ₹500 brewed. (excluding material). Suits take around 7 to 10 days. Santushti Shopping Complex HOMEWARES, CLOTHING (Map p68 ; Santushti Enclave; h10am-7pm 8 Information Mon-Sat) This enclave across from the Dangers & Annoyances Ashok hotel is an unusually relaxing, HOTEL TOUTS Taxi-wallahs at the international if expensive, place to browse and shop, airport frequently act as touts. These sneaky with stores such as Anokhi, Good Earth drivers will try to persuade you that your hotel is and Shyam Ahuja (which sells carpets), full, poor value, overbooked, dangerous, burned housed in appealing little pavilions in a down or closed, or even that there are riots in landscaped area. Delhi. Their intention is to take you to a hotel where they’ll get some commission. Some will M-Block & N-Block Markets MARKET even ‘kindly’ take you to a ‘tourist offi ce’ where (Map p78 ; Greater Kailash I; hWed-Mon) This a colleague will phone your hotel on your behalf, two-part upmarket shopping enclave is and corroborate the driver’s story. In reality, of perhaps best known for the awesome course, he’s talking to his mate in the next room. mothership of Fabindia. Also worth Alternatively, the driver may claim that he’s lost checking out is the clothes store Anokhi and stop at a travel agency for directions. The (N-Block) and the big branch of the lovely agent supposedly dials your hotel and informs you that your room is double-booked, and ‘help- Full Circle Bookstore, complete with a Café Turtle. fully’ fi nds you another hotel where he’ll get commission and you get a high room rate. Fabindia CLOTHING, HOMEWARES Tell persistent taxi drivers that you’ve paid for GKI (Map p78 ; www.fabindia.com; 7 N-Block Mar- your hotel in advance, have recently confi rmed ket; h10am to 7.30pm); Khan Market (Map p68 ; the booking, or have friends/relatives waiting Above shop 20 & 21; mKhan Market); Connaught for you there. If they continue, ask that they stop Place (Map p72 ; Upper Ground fl, 28 B-Block; the car so that you can write down the registra- mRajiv Chowk) Readymade clothes that tion plate number. Just to be sure, call or email won’t look odd back home, plus great to confi rm your hotel booking, if possible, 24 tablecloths, cushion covers, curtains and hours before check-in. other homewares. TRAVEL AGENT TOUTS Be cautious with travel agencies, as many travellers every year Nalli Silk Sarees CLOTHING report being overcharged and underwhelmed Greater Kailash (Map p78 ; %24629926; Greater by unscrupulous agents. To avoid grief, ask for Kailash II; h10am-8.30pm); Connaught Place traveller recommendations, or ask for a list of (Map p72 ; 7/90 P-Block; mRajiv Chowk) This recommended agents from the India Tourist of- multistorey sari emporium is a kaleido- fi ce (88 Janpath). Think twice before parting with scope of silk varieties, specialising in those your money. Choose agents who are members from . Prices range from ₹1000 of accredited associations such as the Travel to ₹30,000. Agents Association of India and the Indian As- sociation of Tour Operators. Be especially careful if booking a multistop Baluja Forex (Map p 76 ; %41541523; 4596 98 trip out of Delhi. Lonely Planet often gets letters Main Bazaar, Paharganj; h9am-7.30pm) Does from travellers who’ve paid upfront and then cash advances on MasterCard and Visa. found out there are extra expenses, they’ve been Central Bank of India (Map p 68 ; %26110101; overcharged, or the accommodation is terrible. Ashok Hotel, Chanakyapuri; h24hr) Given the number of letters we’ve received from Thomas Cook International airport unhappy travellers, it’s also best not to book (%25653439; h24hr); Janpath (Map tours to Kashmir from Delhi. % DELHI p68 ; 23342171; Hotel Janpath, Janpath; TRAIN STATION TOUTS These touts are at their h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) worst at New Delhi train station. Here they may try to prevent you reaching the upstairs International Post & Telephone

Tourist Bureau and divert you to a local (over- Delhi has tons of telephone kiosks where you can priced and often unreliable) travel agency. Make make cheap local, interstate and international the assumption that the offi ce is never closed calls. (outside the offi cial opening hours; see p 99 ) and DHL (Map p 72 ; %23737587; Mercantile Bldg, has not shifted. It’s still in its regular place on the h 1st fl oor, close to the Paharganj side of the station. ground fl Tolstoy Marg; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Organises international air freight. Other swindlers may insist that your ticket needs to be stamped or checked (for a hefty fee) Post office Connaught Place (Map p 72 ; 6 h before it is considered valid. Some may try to A-Block; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat); New Delhi main % convince wait-listed passengers that there is a post office (Map p 68 ; 23364111; Baba Kharak h charge to check their reservation status – don’t Singh Marg; 10am-1pm & 1.30-4pm Mon-Sat) fall for it. Poste restante available at the main post office; ensure mail is addressed to GPO, New Delhi – For more info on Scams & Touts, see p 1156 . 110001. Internet Access Tourist Information Internet cafes are mushrooming, with centres in Beware Delhi’s many dodgy travel agencies and Khan Market, Paharganj and Connaught Place, ‘tourist information centres’. Do not be fooled – among others, usually charging around ₹35 per the only offi cial tourist information centre is India hour, ₹5 to print a page and ₹25 to scan/write Tourism Delhi. Touts may (falsely) claim to be a CD. Reviewed places with wi-fi are indicated associated with this offi ce. with W. For Indian regional tourist offi ces’ contact Media details ask at India Tourism Delhi, or dial direc- To check out what’s on, grab Delhi Diary (₹10). tory enquiries on %197. Fab monthly magazine First City (₹50) has India Tourism Delhi (Government of India; comprehensive listings/reviews, ranging from Map p72 ; %23320008/5; www.incredible theatre to so-now bars, while Time Out Delhi india.org; 88 Janpath; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to (₹40) is a hip take on the city. Publications are 2pm Sat) Gives tourist-related advice as well available at newsstands and bookshops. as a free Delhi map and brochures. Has a list of recommended agencies and bed & breakfasts. Medical Services Their special branch investigates tourism- Pharmacies are ubiquitous in most markets. related complaints. All India Institute of Medical Sciences (Aiims; Map p78 ; %26588500; www.aiims.edu; 8 Getting There & Away Ansari Nagar; mAIIMS) Delhi is a major international gateway. It’s also Apollo Hospital (%26925858; Mathura Rd, a centre for domestic travel, with extensive bus, Sarita Vihar) rail and air connections. Delhi’s airport can be Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital (Map p68 ; prone to thick fog in December and January %23365525; Baba Kharak Singh Marg) (often disrupting airline schedules), making it wise not to book back-to-back fl ights during this East West Medical Centre (Map p 78 ; period. %24690429; www.eastwestrescue.com; B-28 Greater Kailash Part I) Opposite N-Block Market; Air this is one of the easier options if you have to International and domestic fl ights all leave from make an insurance claim. and arrive at the airport’s gleaming new Termi- Money nal 3. For fl ight inquiries, call the international airport (%0124-3376000; www.newdelhi There are ATMs almost everywhere you look in airport.in). At the new Terminal 3 there are 14 Delhi. Many travel agents and money changers, ‘nap & go’ rooms with wi-fi , a desk, TV and bed including Thomas Cook, can do international (₹315/hr). money transfers. PUBLIC BUSES 99

Apart from public buses, there are comfortable private bus services (including sleep- ers), leaving from central locations, but their schedules vary (enquire at travel agencies or your hotel). Example routes are Delhi to Jammu (₹500, 15 hours) and McLeon Ganj (₹650, 14 hours). Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC) also runs a bus for Dharamsala from Connaught Place. There are buses to Agra, but the train DELHI is much easier and quicker. 8

DESTINATION ONE-WAY FARE (₹) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURES GETTING THERE & AWAY THERE 8 GETTING 500-665 (B) 10 hourly 5.30am-9.30pm Chandigarh 180/345-515 (A/B)5 every 30min 6am-1.50am Dehra Dun 179/278-460 (A/B) 7 hourly 5am-11pm Dharamsala 395/500-780 (A/B) 12 hourly 4.30am-11pm Kullu 490/830-1050 (A/B)13 9am Manali 490/830-1050 (A/B)15 hourly 1-10pm 310/580-860 10 hourly 5am-10.30pm

A – ordinary, B – deluxe AC

For comprehensive details of domestic air Kashmiri Gate; h24hr), north of the (Old) Delhi routes, see Excel’s Timetable of Air Services train station. It has a 24-hour left-luggage facil- Within India (₹55), available at newsstands. ity (₹14 per bag). This station is chaotic so arrive When making reservations request the most at least 30 minutes ahead of your departure direct (quickest) route. Note that airline prices time. State-government bus companies (and fl uctuate and website bookings with some carri- their counters) at the ISBT include the following ers can be markedly cheaper. (timetables are online): DOMESTIC ARRIVALS & DEPARTURES Delhi Transport Corporation Check-in at the airport for domestic fl ights is (%23865181; dtc.nic.in; Counter 34) one hour before departure. Roadways DOMESTIC AIRLINES The Air India offi ce (%23861262; hartrans.gov.in; Counter 35) (3 Airport; h9.30am-5.30pm) is in % South Delhi. To confi rm fl ights dial %1407. Himachal Roadways ( 23868694; Counter 40) Other domestic airlines: Punjab Roadways (%23867842; www.punjabroadways.gov.in; Counter 37) Jagson Airlines (Map p 72 ; %23721593; Van- dana Bldg, 11 Tolstoy Marg) Rajasthan Roadways (%23386658, 23864470; Counter 36) Kingfisher Airlines (Map p 72 ; %23730238; 42 N-Block, Connaught Place) Uttar Pradesh Roadways (%23868709; Counter 33) INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS The arrivals hall has 24-hour money-exchange facilities, ATM, Train prepaid taxi and car-hire counters, a tourist For foreigners, it’s easiest to make ticket book- information counter, cafes and bookshops. ings at the helpful International Tourist Bureau INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURES At the check- (Map p 76 ; %23405156; 1st fl , New Delhi train in counter, ensure you collect tags to attach to station; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun). Do hand luggage (mandatory to clear security later). not believe anyone – including porters – who Bus tells you it has shifted, closed or burnt down and don’t let anyone stop you from going to the 1st % Bikaner House (Map p 68 ; 23383469; fl oor of the main building for bookings. When Pandara Rd), near India Gate, operates good making reservations here, if you are paying in state-run buses. These are the best buses for rupees you may have to provide back-up money- Jaipur (super deluxe/Volvo ₹325/625, six hours, exchange certifi cates (or ATM receipts), so take hourly); Udaipur (₹750, 15 hours, one daily); these with you just in case. You can also pay in (₹400, nine hours, three daily); and Jodh- travellers cheques: in Thomas Cook US dollars, pur (₹500, 11 hours, one daily). euros or pounds sterling, Amex US dollars and Delhi’s main bus station is the Inter State euros, and US dollars in Barclays cheques. Any Bus Terminal (ISBT; Map p 64 ; %23860290; change is given in rupees. Bring your passport. When you arrive, complete a reservation form, TAXI There is a Delhi Traffi c Police Prepaid 100 then wait to check availability at the Tourism Taxi counter (%helpline 23010101; www.delhi Counter in the offi ce. You can then queue to pay traffi cpolice.nic.in) inside the arrivals building. for the ticket at one of the other counters. It costs about ₹310 to Connaught Place, plus a There are two main stations in Delhi – (Old) 25% surcharge between 11pm and 5am. Delhi train station (Map p 64 ) in Old Delhi, and You’ll be given a voucher with the destination on New Delhi train station (Map p 64 ) at Paharganj; it – insist that the driver honours it. Never surren- make sure you know which station serves your der your voucher until you get to your destination; DELHI destination (New Delhi train station is closer to without that docket the driver won’t get paid. Connaught Place). If you’re departing from the You can also book a prepaid taxi at the Mega- Delhi train station, allow adequate time to mean- cabs counter inside the arrivals building at both

der through Old Delhi’s snail-paced traffi c. the international and domestic . It costs There’s also the Nizamuddin train station (Map around ₹600 to the centre, but you get a cleaner, p 68 ), south of Sunder Nagar, where various car with air-con, and you can pay by credit card. trains (usually for south-bound destinations) start or fi nish. Car Railway porters should charge around ₹30 HIRING A CAR & DRIVER Numerous opera- per bag. tors off er chauff eur-driven cars. The following There are many more destinations and trains companies get positive reports from travellers. than those listed in the boxed text, p 101 – check Each has an eight-hour, 80km limit per day. All the Indian Railways Website (www.indianrail.gov. off er tours beyond Delhi (including Rajasthan) in) consult Trains at a Glance (₹45), available at but higher charges apply for these. The rates most newsstands, or ask tourist offi ce staff . below are only for travel within Delhi. Beware of frauds/touts claiming association with these companies or insisting their offi ces have closed. 8 Getting Around Kumar Tourist Taxi Service (Map p 72 ; The metro system has transformed getting %23415930; [email protected]; 14/1 around the city, making it incredibly easy to K-Block, Connaught Place; non-AC/AC per day whizz out to places that were once a long traffi c- ₹800/900; h9am-9pm) Near the York Hotel. hampered struggle to reach. Most of Delhi’s Tiny office run by two brothers, Bittoo and main sights lie close to a metro station. Local Titoo. Their rates are among Delhi’s lowest. buses get horrendously crowded so the metro, autorickshaws and taxis are desirable alterna- Metropole Tourist Service (Map p 68 ; % tives. Keep small change handy for fares. 24310313; www.metrovista.co.in; 224 Defence Colony Flyover Market; non-AC car per To/From the Airport day from ₹850; h7am-7pm) Under the Defence Many international fl ights arrive at ghastly Flyover Bridge (on the Jangpura side). hours, so it pays to book a hotel in advance and Cycle-Rickshaw & Bicycle notify it of your arrival time. Cycle-rickshaws are still in use in parts of Old PRE-ARRANGED PICK-UPS If you arrange an Delhi, though they have been banned in Chandni airport pick-up through a travel agency or hotel, Chowk to reduce congestion. Let’s hope they’re it’s more expensive than a prepaid taxi from the not banned in other areas, as they’re the best airport due to the airport parking fee (up to ₹140) way to get around Old Delhi – the drivers are and ₹80 charge for the person collecting you to wizards at weaving through the crowds. Tips are enter the airport arrivals hall. Sometimes drivers appreciated for this gruelling work. are barred from arrivals for security reasons, in which case most will wait outside Gates 4–6. Cycle-rickshaws are also banned from the Connaught Place area and New Delhi, but they’re METRO The new high-speed metro line is the handy for commuting between Connaught Place best way to get to/from the airport, and runs and Paharganj (about ₹30). between New Delhi train station and Dwarka Sector 21, via Shivaji Stadium, Dhaula Kuan NH8 The largest range of new and secondhand (Mahipalpur station) and Indira Gandhi Interna- bicycles for sale can be found at Jhandewalan tional station (Terminal 3). Trains operate every Cycle Market (Map p64 ). 10 minutes from 5am to 1am. Metro BUS Air-conditioned deluxe buses run to the Delhi’s marvellous metro (Map p 82 ) has effi cient airport about every 40 minutes from ISBT Kash- services with arrival/departure announcements mere Gate, via the Red Fort, LNJP Hospital, New in Hindi and English. Two carriages on each train Delhi Station Gate 2, Connaught Place, Parlia- are designated women-only – look for the pink ment Street and Ashoka Rd (₹50). There are signs on the platform. The trains can get very several other routes, one of which goes via Saket busy, particularly at peak commuting times and Vasant Kunj; another calls at Hauz Khas and (around 9-10am and 5-6pm). Vasant Vihar. MAJOR TRAINS FROM DELHI 101

DEPAR- DURA- TURES & DESTINA- TRAIN NO & TION TRAIN TION NAME FARE (₹) (HR)FREQUENCY STATION

Agra 12280 Taj Exp 75/263 (A)3 1 daily7.10am HN DELHI 8 12002A Bhopal 370/700 (B)2 1 daily6.15am ND Shatabdi Amritsar 12013 Shatabdi 645/1200 (B) 5½ 1 daily 4.30pm ND AROUND 8 GETTING Exp 12029/12031 600/1145 (B) 5½ 1 daily 7.20am ND Swarna/Amritsar Shatabdi Bengaluru 12430 Bangalore 2100/2740/4580 (C) 34 4 weekly 8.50pm HN Rajdhani Chennai 12434 Chennai 2075/2700/4500 (C) 28 2 weekly 4pm HN Rajdhani 12622 Tamil Nadu 528/1429/1960/3322 33 1 daily10.30pm ND Exp (D) Goa 12432 Trivndrm 2035/2615/4370 (C) 25½ 2 weekly 11am HN (Madgaon) Rajdhani Haridwar 12017 Dehradun 435/825 (B) 4½ 1 daily 6.50am ND Shatabdi Jaipur 12958 ADI SJ 605/775/1285 (C)5 6 weekly7.55pm ND Rajdani 12916 Ashram Exp 175/434/581/969 (D) 5¾ 1 daily 3pm OD

12015 Shatabdi 465/885 (B) 4¾ 6 weekly 6.05am ND Exp Khajuraho 12448 Nizamud- 269/802 (E) 10¼ 3 weekly 8.15pm HN din-Khajuraho Exp Lucknow 12004 Lko Swran 700/1360 (B) 6¼ 1 daily 6.15am ND Shatabdi Mumbai 12952 Mumbai 1495/1975/3305 (C) 16 1 daily 4.30pm ND Rajdhani 12954 Ag Kranti 1495/1975/3305 (C) 17¼ 1 daily 4.55pm HN Rajdani Exp Udaipur 12963 Mewar Exp 320/801/1087/1821 12 1 daily7.05pm HN (D) Varanasi 12560 Shivganga 320/806/1095/1805 13 1 daily 6.45pm ND Exp (D)

Train stations: ND – New Delhi, OD – Old Delhi, HN – Hazrat Nizamuddin Fares: A – 2nd class/chair car; B – chair car/1st-class AC; C – 3AC/2AC/1st-class AC; D – sleeper/3AC/2AC/1st-class AC; E – sleeper/3AC

Tokens (₹8 to ₹30) are sold at metro stations; can be recharged for amounts from ₹50 to ₹800 – there are also one-/three-day (₹70/200) ‘tourist fares are 10% cheaper than paying by token. cards’ for unlimited short-distance travel; or a Smart For the latest developments (plus route maps) Card (₹50, refundable when you return it), which see www.delhimetrorail.com or call %23417910. GREATER DELHI 102 AUTORICKSHAW RATES Qutb Minar HISTORIC SITE To gauge fares vis-à-vis distances, the o (Map p78 ; %26643856; Indian/foreigner following list shows one-way (offi cial) ₹10/250, video ₹25; hsunrise-sunset; mQutab rates departing from Janpath’s pre- Minar) The beautiful religious buildings of paid autorickshaw booth. Taxis charge the Qutb Minar complex form one of Delhi’s around double.

DELHI most spectacular sights. They date from the onset of Islamic rule in India, and tell of tu- DESTINATION COST (₹) multuous rises and falls in stone. Today on

GREATER DELHI Bahai House of Worship 100 Delhi’s outskirts, once these constructions Humayun’s Tomb 50 formed the heart of the Muslim city. The Qutb Minar itself is a mighty, awe- Karol Bagh50 some tower of victory, which closely resem- Old Delhi train 50 bles similar Afghan towers, and was also station used as a minaret. Muslim sultan Qutb-ud- Paharganj 30 din began its construction in 1193, imme- Purana Qila30 diately after the defeat of the last Hindu kingdom in Delhi. It’s nearly 73m high and Red Fort50 tapers from a 15m-diameter base to a mere Defence Colony 65 2.5m at the top. The tower has fi ve distinct storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony. The fi rst Motorcycle three storeys are made of red sandstone, For motorcycle rental details, see p 1183 . the 4th and 5th storeys are of marble and sandstone. Qutb-ud-din built only to the 1st Radiocab storey. His successors completed it and then, If you have a local mobile number, you can call a in 1326 it was struck by lightning. In 1368, radiocab. These air-conditioned cars are clean, Firoz Shah rebuilt the top storeys and added effi cient, and use reliable meters. They charge a cupola. An earthquake brought the cupola ₹20 per km. After calling the operator, you’ll crashing down in 1803 – it was replaced with receive a text with your driver’s registration another in 1829, which was later removed. number, then another to confi rm arrival time There’s a (book 20 to 30 minutes in advance). You can Decorative Light Show (Indian/ also book online. foreigner ₹20/250; h6.30-8pm) nightly. The Qutb Festival takes place here every October/ Some companies: November. % Easycabs ( 43434343; www.easycabs.com) Be warned that Qutb Minar gets crowded Megacabs (%41414141; www.megacabs.com) on weekends. Quickcabs (%45333333; www.quickcabs.in) Quwwat-ul- Masjid Taxi & Autorickshaw At the foot of the Qutb Minar stands the fi rst All taxis and autorickshaws have meters but mosque to be built in India, known as the they are often ‘not working’ or drivers refuse to Might of Islam Mosque. Also constructed use them (so they can overcharge). If the meter in 1193, with various additions over the isn’t an option, agree on a fare before setting off . centuries, this building symbolises in stone If the driver won’t agree, look for one who will. the ascendance of one religious power over From 11pm to 5am there’s a 25% surcharge for another. The original mosque was built on autorickshaws and taxis. the foundations of a Hindu temple, and an Otherwise, to avoid shenanigans, catch an inscription over the east gate states that it autorickshaw from a prepaid booth: was built with materials obtained from de- Janpath (Map p 72 ; 88 Janpath; h11am- molishing ‘27 idolatrous temples’ – it’s pos- 8.30pm) Outside the India Tourism Delhi office. sible to see many Hindu and Jain elements New Delhi train station car park (Map p 76 ; in the decoration. h24hr) Altamish, Qutb-ud-din’s son-in-law, sur- Palika Bazaar’s Gate No 2 (Map p 72 ; Con- rounded the original mosque with a clois- naught Place; h11am-7pm) tered court between 1210 and 1220. Iron Pillar tion was said to have sparked a quarrel with This 7m-high pillar stands in the courtyard the saint Nizam-ud-din: when the Tughlaq 103 of the mosque and it was here a long time ruler refused the workers whom Nizam-ud- prior to the mosque’s construction. A six-line din wanted for work on his shrine, the saint inscription indicates that it was ini- cursed the king, warning that his city would tially erected outside a Vishnu temple, pos- be inhabited only by shepherds. Later, this sibly in Bihar, and was raised in memory of was indeed the case.

Chandragupta II, who ruled from AD 375 Later, when Ghiyas-ud-din was returning DELHIGREATER DELHI to 413. from a military campaign, Nizam-ud-din What the inscription does not tell is how again prophesised doom for him, telling his

it was made, for the iron in the pillar is of followers, ‘Delhi is a long way off ’. And it 8 GREATER DELHI exceptional purity. Scientists have never dis- was: the king was killed on his way towards covered how the iron, which has not rusted Delhi in 1325. after some 2000 years, could be cast using The metro runs to Tughlaqabad.

the technology of the time. 8 FMehrauli Archaelogical Alai Minar Park HISTORIC PARK When Ala-ud-din made his additions to the (Map p78 ; hdawn-dusk; mQutab Minar) There’s mosque he also conceived a far more ambi- an entrance a few hundred metres to the left tious construction program. He aimed to of that to Qutb Minar as you face it – walk build a second tower of victory, exactly like down a narrow road which leads into the the Qutb Minar, but twice as high! By the park. It’s a rambling forest, once a hunting time of his death the tower had reached 27m ground for the Mughals, then a favoured and no one was willing to continue his over- spot of colonial offi cers. It’s dotted by ex- ambitious project. The incomplete tower, a traordinary , and has an undis- solid stack of rubble, stands to the north of covered feel. The major monuments include the Qutb Minar and the mosque. Jamali Kamali (sunrise-sunset), a mosque, alongside which lies a small building con- Other Features taining two tombs: that of Jamali, a sufi Ala-ud-din’s exquisite gate- saint, and Kamali, his unknown male friend, way is the main entrance to the whole com- obviously important enough to be buried plex. It was built of red sandstone in 1310 alongside him. Ask the caretaker to unlock and is just southwest of the Qutb Minar. the building to see the well-preserved paint- The tomb of Imam Zamin is beside the ing within. A short walk from here is the gateway, while the tomb of Altamish, who dizzying , a majestic 16th- died in 1235, is by the northwestern corner Rajon ki Baoli century step-well with an Escheresque of the mosque. The largely ruined madra- sweeping fl ight of steps. sa of Ala-ud-din stands at the rear of the complex. Garden of the 5 Senses PARK There are some summer palaces in the (Map p78 ; admission ₹15; h8am-9pm; mSaket) area and also the tombs of the last kings This relaxing garden, an 8-hectare land- of Delhi, who succeeded the Mughals. An scaped park inaugurated in 2003, is fi lled empty space between two of the tombs was with intriguing contemporary sculptures, intended for the last king of Delhi, who died formal gardens and features such as wind in exile in Yangon, Burma (Myanmar), in chimes and lily ponds. Its discreet corners 1862, following his implication in the 1857 make it a favourite of canoodling couples. First War of Independence. There are several upmarket restaurants and bars close to Gate 3. (Map p78 ; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; h8.30am-5.30pm; mTughlaqabad) Crumbling 8 Getting There & Away Tughlaqabad was the third city of Delhi. This The metro extends to Qutb Minar, but the mammoth, battered-looking stronghold, entrance is a couple of kilometres away along with 6.5km of walls and 13 gateways, was busy, broad roads from the station, so catch a built by Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq. Its construc- rickshaw (₹30). ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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