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Dr. Sumbul Halim Khan

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Dr. Sumbul Halim Khan THESIS SUBMITTED FOR THE AWARD OF THE DEGREE OF BY UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF DEPARTMENT OF HISTORY ALIGARH MUSLIM UNIVERSITY ALIGARH (INDIA) 2016 . This is to certify that the thesis by is the original research work of the candidate, and is suitable for submission to the examiner for the award of the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy in History. First of all it is obligatory to thank Almighty the lord of the Alamin, the most gracious and most merciful, who gave me potential and courage to accomplish this work. I would like to pay deep reverence from the bottom of my heart to my supervisor for her constant supervision. Her research acumen, comments and questions encouraged, supported and enlightened me. I always feel free in her company. She was not only supervisor during my work she was more like a family. She cared, nurtured me just like a kid. With her guidance and constant encouragement I accomplished this work with success. Her moral support and masterly guidance was a constant inspiration for me throughout my research work. It gives me immense pleasure to express my deep sense of gratitude and sincere thanks to Chairman and Coordinator, Centre of Advanced Study Department of History, AMU; Aligarh who was gracious to furnish facilities to accomplish this work .Other teachers of the Department were available for valuable suggestion, advice and guidance. I am beholden to for being a bastion of support in all my academic ventures. I can never ever repay the debt I have incurred. I am immensely thankful to who gave me valuable suggestions at the crucial phase of pre-submission viva as my examiner. I have greatly benefited from his constructive criticism. I am indebted to and for always being cooperative and affectionate during my research period. I also wish to express my thanks to for his optimistic support and guidance during my research work. Words fail to express my heartfelt gratitude to . for his concern, moral support and encouragement all through my work. I am also thankful to for her support, care and concern at the time of my submission. I am immensely grateful to Library Staff of and for always being cooperative and helpful. It would have been impossible for me undertake this research work without their positive attitude and collective efforts. Their role is noteworthy so far as my research work is concerned. Finally, I acknowledge my thanks to the staff of Chief Librarian, and his team of colleagues for their promptness in rendering miscellaneous kinds of help. and are gratefully acknowledged for granting scholarship in order to conduct my research. Words fail me for the appreciation and support that I received from all my dear friends particularly Whenever I used to be in any anxiety, they used to humour me in order to overcome my annoyance. Their company was really humorous which proved fruitful for my research work. I cannot forget to mention my deep sense of gratitude, genuine and sincere thanks to my friend who was always there for me and his jokes make me laugh during my research period. I am also thankful to my colleagues and friends like for their constant encouragement, all possible support and concern. Finally, I find my pleasant duty to express my extreme gratitude to for being brotherly support throughout the work of my thesis, words fail to thank him enough for the pain he took to see this thesis in its final shape. I find my pleasant duty to express my extreme gratitude to my hostel colleagues and Friends and Their company in hostel was really very wonderful. I learnt many valuable things by being in their company. The moments that I shared with them would be remembered throughout my life. With profound sense of gratitude I take this opportunity to express the kind and generous support that I have been receiving from my beloved parents whose blessing have remained a constant source of enlightenment in my entire academic endeavor. Whatever I am today is because of their fervent prayers, loving care and service endeavors. They were the main source of my happiness and progress. The role of my maternal uncles namely and is immense. Their affection and support continuously flowed throughout my research work. It gives me immense pleasure to express my special thanks to my husband for his remarkable patience, continual support, and understanding. He was always there with me during the critical phase in which this thesis was written. So he is worthy of the special gratitude. I would like to thank my farther-in-law late whose loving blessings were always with me and my thanks also goes to my mother-in-law for her love and concern. Who always cared and supported me through this work. The contribution of my brother-in-law and nephew are also noteworthy. They definitely deserve special appreciation and gratitude for helping me in many ways. It is pertinent to acknowledge my two loving sisters and and my younger brother who not only encouraged and provided emotional support to me but also continuously transcended their love and affection. I am immensely thankful to my younger sisters and for their moral support, loving care and constant encouragement. I also shared some joyous moments with them that I shall never forget in my life. They enlighten my life like stars in the sky. The treatment and the timely suggestions that I received from them is remarkable and I never felt that I am away from my home. My work is incomplete if I would not mention the contribution of my Grandparents who right from my childhood till date have reared and cared me. They acted as a lime light so far as my studies are concerned. So it is my fortune to sincerely acknowledge them. . . .. . . CONTENTS Acknowledgement Abbreviations INTRODUCTION 1-15 CHAPTER 1: Patronage to Artisans 16-29 CHAPTER 2: Social and Economic Condition 30-54 A. Clothing B. Caste and sub-caste C. Hereditary occupation D. Guilds E. Social protest F. Regulations G. Mobility H. Honours conferred I. Robe of Honour J. Wage Structure K. Traveller’s perception of the Economic condition of Artisans L. Economic condition of Artisans in Archival records CHAPTER 3: Craftsmen Involved In Textile Production at Jaipur 55-78 A. Rangrez (dyers) engaged in Colouring of Textile B. Tie and Dye Work C. Printer and Printing of Textile D. Embroiderers and Different Embroidery CHAPTER 4: Other Artisan and Craftsmen 79-118 A. Painters B. Embellishers and Handi workers of Decorative Art Minakar (enamel worker) Koftgar (gold beater) Murassakar (inlayer) Munabbatkar (engraver orstone carver) C. Gold-Smith (sunar) and Jewellers D. Building Construction Workers E. Arms and Armours Manufacturers F. Book-Binding Craft G. Miscellaneous Workers Mali (Gardeners) Khati (Carpenters) Kumhar (Potters) Thathera (Brass worker) Lakhera (Bangle makers of lac) Churigar (Bangle Makers) Gandhi (Perfumers) Hajjam (Barbers) Darzi (Tailors) CHAPTER 5: Tools and Techniques 119-150 A. Textile: Technique and Tools Tools and Implements of Carder, Spinners and Weavers Technique and Tools of Resham-saaz (Silk Twisting), Parcha-baafi (Cloth Weaving), Nawar-baafi (Coarse Layers) and Boriya-baafi(Mat Weaving) B. Colouring and Printing of Textiles Preparation of Colours for Dye Printing in Chhapakhana Technique of Printing the Cloth C. Technique and Tools of Building Construction D. Metallurgy and Tools of different Craftsmen E. The Technique of Paintings and Tools F. Tools and Technique of Arm manufacturing G. Tools and Technique of Book-Binding Craft CHAPTER 6: Training and Organisation of Artisans 151-169 A. Training of Artisans Hereditary Training Training by the Master Craftsmen B. Organization of Building Construction Workers C. Organisation of Artisans in different Karkhanas D. Role of Merchant in the organization of Karkhanas CONCLUSION 170-172 APPENDICES 173-192 1. Clay Model of weaver worker 2. Specimen of Embroidery 3. Textile printing cloth 4. Ratangrah document 5. Toshakhana document 6. Specimen of Wooden Blocks 7. Suratkhana document 8. Roznamcha Zargarkhana document 9. Clay Models of damascening workshop 10. Clay Model of goldsmith’s shop 11. Arhsatta Imarti 12. Painting of Building Construction of Mughal Period 13. Jamkharch Topkhana document 14. Silehkhana document 15. Khushbookhana document 16. Kapad-dwara document 17. Crafted Cannon 18. Crafted Shields 19. Budhhi Vilas document 20. Arshatta Imarti document GLOSSARY 193-205 BIBLIOGRAPHY 206-229 Clay Models and Illustrations (I-XI) INTRODUCTION The proposed theme ‘Artisans and Craftsmen in 18thCentury Jaipur’ is taken up to contextualize this vital segment in its socio economic setup. The given time slot and region is selected because Jaipur experienced a boom in expansion of artisanal activity at its foundation. The foundation of Jaipur afforded the opportunity to a conglomerate of artisans and craftsmen. The rich nature of archival records indicates that the city was thoroughly planned and meticulous care was taken to allocate specific locality to a particular profession such as that of cloth printers and potters etc. Interestingly enough there are extant medieval maps and plans to illustrate the far sighted vision of city plan. The main markets and its shops were constructed by the state and uniformity of the buildings was maintained. The documents furnish information about market area and manufacturing of different products for instance, dye cloths, embroidery and tinsel work.1 Our evidence also indicates the efforts invested in luring the skilled artisans and craftsmen from areas of repute to meet the increased urban demand. Conscious effort was also made to inhabit traders and businessmen so that they could maintain smooth supply of raw material to the artisans. Gradually Jaipur city earned fame and its population and prosperity emerged at accelerated pace. Jaipur hosted all kinds of manufactures, in order to cater to growing demand of the new city.
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