DOCSLIB.ORG

Fall 1999 Issue

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Fall 1999 Issue The Backside of Beyond The Bardini Foundation Newsletter Fall 1999 Issue Local Climbing Tribal Youth Go Avalanche Beacons Clean-Up Outing Climbing to Search & Rescue The Bardini Foundation loaned its climbing On November 10th, the Bardini and Slide Show guides to the Bishop Paiute Tribal Council Foundation will present four brand new Youth Sports to conduct rock climbing Ortovox F1 Focus avalanche beacons to On the weekend of October 16-17, classes for groups of elementary and high the Inyo County Search and Rescue access work was conducted at the Owens school students during a two week period in Team. Included with the donation, the River Gorge, the Buttermilks, the new free August. The kids were trained in basic rock team will receive training in avalanche BLM campground, and the Happy climbing technique, the use of ropes, and beacon rescue from Tim Villanueva, Boulders. The maintenance work was environmental responsibility. Approximately Bardini's principal mountain guide. The organized by the Access Fund, C.R.A.G., Foundation will continue to supply Wilson's Outdoor Sports, Bishop Union equipment and training to the local High School Outdoor Club, the Bardini volunteer rescue teams as their needs Foundation, the Rubber Room, and Rock arise and as the Foundation funds will and Fax Guidebooks in conjunction with the Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service. What's Nice About An outdoor slideshow was held the evening of the 16th on Bishop's Climber's Boulderers? Row. The slide show featured the antiquated Yosemite big-wall climbing In the summer issue of The Backside of slides of Tom Frost and Don Lauria. Beyond somehow the last line of the Despite their age, the slides, not the item on the Bishop Bouldering Boom presenters, seemed to have retained was shoved off into cyberspace and more some of their entertaining qualities. than one curious readers called to ask Approximately 100 people attended and what was the nice thing about door prizes donated by Wilson's Eastside boulderers. The last line as published Sports were awarded. A pancake read: "Nice thing about boulderers, breakfast was hosted by the BUHS though, is ...". Some thought that this was Outdoor Club on the morning of the 17th. an intentional omission ... that in fact, there's nothing nice about boulderers, but Proceeds from the slide show and thirty youths participated and each was this was not the case. The last line pancake breakfast were donated to the awarded a "no more development" Yosemite should have read: Bardini Foundation, C.R.A.G., and the t-shirt and other gifts donated by Patagonia, "The nice thing about boulderers, BUHS Outdoor Club. Black Diamond, and Ab-Com. though, is ... they bring their own In This Issue The American Mountain Center ------------------ 2 Shooting Star Guides & Bardini Ski ----------------------- 4 Bard Memorial Ski Race ----------------------- 2 E-Mail Address Change & Hostel Rules ------------------ 4 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides ---------------- 2 Statement of Purpose -------------------------------------- 5 Camp 4 Celebration & Hostel Notes ----------- 2 Summertime Donors & Avalanche School ------------------ 5 Behind the Ranges by Allan Bard -------------- 3 Foundation Activities ------------------------------------- 6 2 The Backside of Beyond Yosemite Camp 4 Allan Bard New Owners at Celebration Edge Stone at the Jackson Hole The word was out and they came by the hundreds. Climbers from South Africa, American Mountain Mountain Guides Hawaii, from all over the map. They came to Allan Bard worked for ten years in the celebrate the success of Tom Frost's Center Inyo National Forest, the Wind River Sisyphean effort to save Sunnyside Range in Wyoming, and Grand Teton Campground, known otherwise by all The American Alpine Club and the National Park under the use permits held Yosemite climbers as Camp 4, from the Colorado Mountain Club are now by his long time friend Andy Carson at intended intrusion by Park Service renovating the Golden High School JHMG (Jackson Hole Mountain Guides). construction. building in Golden, Colorado. When JHMG had been owned and operated by The August 25th event was initiated with a complete the historic landmark will Andy Carson and Paul Horton for many Camp 4 photo shoot attended by just about become The American Mountain Center, a years. The business is currently being every significant historic climbing legend still multi-use facility dedicated to the sold to a new set of partners: Rob and capable of finding his or her way to the Valley. mountain environment. Kathryn Hess, Jim Ratz and Phil Powers. Being aware of the disreputable behavior Andy and Paul will remain involved capabilities of these "livid legends", the Park during the transition and into the future. Service made their presence known with mounted police at the ready. The Bardini Foundation is continuing to Immediately following, the "intimidating" work with JHMG and will continue to hordes moved on to the Lower River provide guiding services to all of Allan's Ampitheater for the dinner and formal climbing and skiing clientele. presentation to the Park Service of a replica of the original Camp 4 sign. Hostel Notes Two surprises: The arrival of David Brower The long anticipated new carpet and the and his brief but eloquent words, and the permanent "boat house" roofing are now in announcement that brought the house down, place at the hostel. On October 12th the new As part of our continuing efforts to expose Sunnyside Campground will be renamed. high-low Golden Harvest carpet was installed people to the "mountain experience", the Once again and forever it will be known as in the livingroom and on October 23rd, Ed Bardini Foundation has contributed to this Cereda and Don Lauria put the finishing Camp 4. renovation and a commemorative 6x10 touches on a roofing structure to cover the sandstone "edger" will be installed in the boat house section of the hostel patio deck. Mountain Center's terrace. The stone will 3rd Annual Bard be engraved with: Still on our improvement agenda is the fireproofing of the wall behind the wood stove and improved overhead lighting in the Memorial Ski Race Allan Bard 1952-1997 livingroom. Mammoth Mountain's cross country center at Bardini Foundation Tamarack Lodge & Resort will hold The Allan From the Hostel Log Book: Bard Memorial Relay on March 5, 2000. Last "Although my stay here was very limited, I The construction of the terrace should be year's Bunbuster 20K Freestyle Race was find the need and desire to thank you on my completed sometime next spring. The city hampered by weather and only 14 hardy behalf and for those you'll serve in the future. of Golden is now the home of this I wasn't prepared for this. This place was racers participated. With normal conditions hemisphere's largest mountain-related prepared for me. Although I didn't know Allan, we hope all interested locals show for this library, a beautiful auditorium, and the the efforts you've put forth to maintain this year's relay. Clubs' offices. A mountaineering museum, hostel speaks volumes of his character. I'm a climbing gym, and conference facilities certain you've made this place mirror his soul This is the third consecutive year that will soon be constructed. as best you knew and felt. The visitor can Tamarack's directors, Mike and Courtney see more deeply what Allan meant to his McGrale, have held a race in Allan's memory. friends and loved ones. In this place, beyond When you visit, make sure you see Allan's We thank them again for keeping his spirit the hospitality, I see respect ... and love." memorial stone. alive. signed Algin Amores The Backside of Beyond 3 Alaskan day in flawless weather, or stood As the great mountaineering writer James We intend that each issue of The on the top of a peak, miles from anything, Ramsey Ullman tells us, "So we have Backside of Beyond will present breathing rarefied air, and preparing to ski gone, alone, in pairs, in small groups, and something by Allan ... perfect snow in my own private powder in great expeditions seeking out the high either his writing or his photography. park. Nah, I wouldn't give that up for hidden places of the earth." Don't let anything. I am often reminded, while another winter pass you by, go my friends, sitting around some campfire swapping a embrace the great snowy unknown and few tales, that my life is rich. gain its rich rewards. Behind The Ranges By Allan Bard The backcountry holds this wealth for anyone with the gumption to just get out Why ski in the wild outback? In this age, and away. It needn't be to some exotic when it's tough enough to survive the land. It might just be sneaking around the hurried hustle of day to day life, why would woods out back of the house and catching you want to subject yourself to the rigors a glimpse of a moose or an elk, hearing of skiing in the backcountry when it's so the rush of a winter breeze that makes the much easier to take a few runs at the local ice encrusted birch trees sing like wind hill or catch a few quick K's on the tracks chimes, or entering the deep silence of and just relax? the snow cloaked trees high in the peaks region. The other day one of my buddies at the Mammoth ski school asked how I spent my days off. To his amazement I informed him that I went powder skiing. Since there hadn't been any "fluff" on the hill for some time, he inquired as to where I might have found this creamy substance in such short supply at Mammoth.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • National Register of Historic Places Registration Form
    NPS Form 10-900 OMBNo. 10024-0018 (Oct. 1990) United States Department of the Interior » , • National Park Service V National Register of Historic Places Registration Form This form is for use in nominating or requesting determination for individual properties and districts Sec instructions in How to Complete the National Register of Historic Places Registration Form (National Register Bulletin 16A). Complete each item by marking "x" in the appropriate box or by entering the information requested. If an item does not apply to the property being documented, enter "N/A" lor 'not applicable." For functions, architectural classification, materials, and area of significance, enter only categories and subcategories from the instructions Place additional entries and narrative items on continuation sheets (NPS Form 10- 900A). Use typewriter, word processor or computer to complete all items. 1. Name of Property____________________________________________________ historic name Camp 4 other name/site number Sunnyside Campground__________________________________________ 2. Location_______________________________________________________ street & number Northside Drive, Yosemite National Park |~1 not for publication city or town N/A [_xj vicinity state California code CA county Mariposa code 043 zip code 95389 3. State/Federal Agency Certification As the designated authority under the National Historic Preservation Act, as amended, I hereby certify that this Itjiomination _irquest for determination of eligibility meets the documentationsJand»ds-iJar
    [Show full text]
  • O Regon Section . Bob Mcgown, Section Chair, Was on Four
    O r e g o n S e c t i o n . Bob McGown, Section chair, was on four continents this year, so Richard Bence took over some of his duties. Bence also maintains the Oregon Section and Madrone Wall Web sites, www.ors.alpine.org and www.savemadrone.org. The Oregon Section spon­ sors the Madrone Wall Web site. In a public study session, Clackamas County unanimously accepted the Parks Advisory Board recommendation not to sell the site for a private quarry or housing development and to move forward to establish a public park. Letters of support were written by over 500 citizens and by organizations including the Oregon Section. AAC member Keith Daellenbach is the founder and long time director of the Friends of Madrone Wall Pres­ ervation Committee. In late fall 2005 the Section sent $2,500 to Pakistan and collected tents and clothing that were shipped by the AAC. In January at the Hollywood Theater, Jeff Alzner organized the Cascade Mountain Film Festival, which raised an additional $6,000 for Pakistani relief efforts. Other contributions came from the Banff Film Festival participants who donated use of their films: Sandra Wroten and Gary Beck. There were also significant donations from Jill Kellogg, Jeff Alzner, Richard Bence, Richard Humphrey, Bob McGown, and others. Mazama president Wendy Carlton acted as MC in making the Pakistan Earthquake Village evening a success. We had over a dozen volunteers from the AAC and the Mazamas, and an estimated 350 people attended. The chair of Mercy Corps, headquartered in Portland, introduced the program.
    [Show full text]
  • Modern Yosemite Climbing 219
    MODERN YOSEMITE CLIMBING 219 MODERN YOSEMITE CLIMBING BY YVON CHOUINARD (Four illustrations: nos. 48-5r) • OSEMITE climbing is the least known and understood, yet one of the most important, schools of rock climbing in the world today. Its philosophies, equipment and techniques have been developed almost independently of the rest of the climbing world. In the short period of thirty years, it has achieved a standard of safety, difficulty and technique comparable to the best European schools. Climbers throughout the world have recently been expressing interest in Yosemit e and its climbs, although they know little about it. Until recently, even most American climbers were unaware of what was happening in their own country. Y osemite climbers in the past had rarely left the Valley to climb in other areas, and conversely few climbers from other regions ever come to Yosemite; also, very little has ever been published about this area. Climb after climb, each as important as a new climb done elsewhere, has gone completely unrecorded. One of the greatest rock climbs ever done, the 1961 ascent of the Salethe Wall, received four sentences in the American Alpine Journal. Just why is Y osemite climbing so different? Why does it have techniques, ethics and equipment all of its own ? The basic reason lies in the nature of the rock itself. Nowhere else in the world is the rock so exfoliated, so glacier-polished and so devoid of handholds. All of the climbing lines follow vertical crack systems. Nearly every piton crack, every handhold, is a vertical one. Special techniques and equipment have evolved through absolute necessity.
    [Show full text]
  • The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
    THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr.
    [Show full text]
  • BY SAM SCOTT Celebrate What Had So Recently PHOTOGRAPHY by TOM FROST/AURORA PHOTOS Seemed Impossible
    SHEER y the time Tom Frost started B up El Capitan’s 3,000-foot vertical walls in the fall of 1960, the glory of being the first to scale FOCUS Yosemite’s most imposing mono- Tom Frost was an unlikely pioneer, lith had already been claimed. A but his exploits—and ethics— maverick named Warren Hard- ing had taken the honors two have shaped generations of high achievers. years earlier, staggering over the granite giant’s rim before drying his tears and greeting the throng of reporters and fans gathered to BY SAM SCOTT celebrate what had so recently PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM FROST/AURORA PHOTOS seemed impossible. STANFORD 51 But Frost was after something different. Harding had es- sentially taken on El Cap like it was Mount Everest, bolting Frost’s quick emergence into the rock a trail of fixed ropes that allowed his team to come and go during 45 days of climbing spread over 18 months. Such among the world’s tactics were common in the murderous altitude and weather of the Himalayas, but for climbers like Frost, ’58, they seemed best may have surprised unsporting in Yosemite. With enough bolts, fixed ropes and time, any obstacle would submit—even El Cap—but that wasn’t those who knew him in the point. And so Frost and three others, led by a charismatic climber his early years at Stanford. named Royal Robbins, the purist yin to Harding’s pragmatic yang, left the valley floor in September 1960. They expected a 10-day climb and hauled only enough water for a quart and a half per day.
    [Show full text]
  • Eiger Anniversary Climb Irish Team Repeat Barrington’S first Ascent
    Winter 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 128 Eiger anniversary climb Irish team repeat Barrington’s first ascent Vandeleur Lynams First continuous round completed: 273 Irish peaks in just 56 days www.mountaineering.ie Come along and develop your winter Discounts for early bookings, group bookings mountain skills, expand your and aspirant mountaineers knowledge and meet fellow walkers, mountaineers and climbers who enjoy snow and ice For further information: Call the Training Office on 01 625 1112 or email [email protected] A Word from the edItor ISSUE 128 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! As we come to registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, the end of another year, which National Sports Campus, seems to have flown by again, it Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. is always good to do a little Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 stocktaking. the promised indemnity Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 CIt has been another busy year for [email protected] scheme could deliver assured www.mountaineering.ie Mountaineering Ireland, your national ❝ access for recreation in most governing body. CEO Murrough McDonagh and Hot Rock Climbing Wall his excellent staff have certainly been kept on upland areas in Ireland. Tollymore Mountain Centre their toes. Our membership has increased and, Bryansford, Newcastle overall, the numbers of people going County Down, BT33 0PT 2019 walking season (see report, page 6).
    [Show full text]
  • Glacier Travel on Canada Week A
    Finn James vol. 25, no. 9 September 2018 Glacier Travel on Canada Week A Inside: 25th Anniversary Celebration Steering Committee Nominees Post 58 Chapters Jeff Lowe & Tom Frost Canada Stories Leadership Course Climb Season Recap Leading on Rock Where Seniors Will Be Portland Marathon Next meeting: Monday, September 10th, 7:00 PM, Lincoln High School Room 169 !1 Finn James vol. 25, no. 9 September 2018 Announcements 25th Anniversary Celebration On December 23rd, 2018, the Post will have a celebration as we reach 25 years of existence. All past, present, and future Post members are invited for an evening of fun, including games, a slideshow, an auction, and more. Reservation forms will be sent out in October, but please save the date. POST 58 CHAPTERS You may have heard about the exciting changes to the Post coming this fall! Read and learn: Post 58 has experienced accelerated growth over the past three years. We currently have 134 students and 50 advisors, and the coming onslaught of new applicants in October will surely make up for the loss of 40 seniors. Given that there are currently 61 students on the waiting list (there were 24 last year), and that we can expect well over 100 new prospects at the meeting (there were 102 prospects last year and 85 paid to join), this acceleration does not appear to be leveling out. With this growth, there has been a clear loss of community and disconnect between students and advisors. The mission of the Post is to bring outdoor adventure activities, and the associated growth and leadership benefits, to teens in the Portland area.
    [Show full text]
  • Mile High Mountaineer the Newsletter of the Denver Group of the Colorado Mountain Club Volume 43, No
    Mile High Mountaineer The newsletter of the Denver Group of the Colorado Mountain Club Volume 43, No. 4 April 2011 • www.hikingdenver.net www.cmc.org HALL OF MOUNTAINEERING Royal met Liz Burkner, a UC Berkely student working EXCELLENCE GALA... a summer job in Yosemite’s Ahwanee Hotel, in the 196l. Married in 1963, the couple’s love of climbing has taken calls all CMC Mountaineers to attend the April 9th event them to Spain, France, Switzerland, and the UK. Liz to induct five of the most significant mountaineers of became the first woman to accomplish a first ascent on our time in the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence the Northwest Face of Half Dome, and the first woman The inductees honored into the Bradford Washburn to have completed a Grade VI climb. Mountaineering Museum Hall of Mountaineering Come to listen to Royal Robbins’ stories as well as Excellence this year include Tom Hornbein, Fred Beckey, those of other inductees. The event will be held at the Royal Robbins, Miriam Underhill and Willi Unsoeld. The American Mountaineering Center at 710 10th Street in evening will be filled with stories of each mountaineer’s Golden, CO. Doors open at 5:30pm. Tickets are $75 for greatest ascents and expeditions, fond memories of the individuals and $125 for couples and can be purchased inductees no longer with us, as well as an appreciative through the American Mountaineering Museum website look at each one’s work beyond the climbing world. www.mountaineeringmuseum.org. Guests will enjoy a cocktail reception in the museum, Contact Shelby Arnold 303-996-2763 or email catered dinner, entertainment, live auction and keynote [email protected].
    [Show full text]
  • ANNUAL REPORT 2007 Access Fund History
    2007ANNUAL REPORT 2007 Access Fund History The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Over the last 18 years we have spent millions of dollars on land acquisitions, local conservation projects, support for grassroots activism, climber education, and representation in the public policy arena. We now have over 15,000 members and affi liates and the support of the climbing industry. We work with hundreds of corporate and community partners, 70 affi liated local climbing organizations, and 30 regional coordinators to advocate on behalf of climbers in the U.S. table of contents Access Fund History 2 The AF Perspective 3 Financial Report 4/5 Member Profi le 6 2007 Sharp End Awards 7 2007 Policy Highlights 8/9 Grassroots: LCOs 10 Grassroots: Grants 11 Grassroots: TeamWorks 12 Grassroots: Adopt-a-Crag 13 2007 Access Fund Members 14/15 Member Profi le 16 Corporate Partners 17 Regional Coordinators 18 Community Partners 19 Ambassaadors 20 Local Climbing Organizations 21 Mission / Vision 22 Board of Directors and Staff 23 photo Jim Thornburg 2007 The AF Perspective 2/3 Last year, the Access Fund’s 17th, was Looking ahead, we will continue a year of change and progress. We to expand our current stewardship enjoyed a 5% growth in membership, projects, membership, policy work the addition of eight new local and grassroots network of local climbing organizations and an climbing organizations.
    [Show full text]
  • Winter 2009/2010
    The Backside of Beyond Bardini The Bardini Foundation Newsletter Winter 2009/2010 Issue Our Plea for E-Mail Winter/Spring Season Annual Fund Raiser Bears Repeating Very Active for Starts December 15th Considering the national economic situa- Despite the previous plea for e-mail ad- Bardini Foundation tion, last year’s fund raiser exceeded our dresses the response was relatively small. expectations. We hope our donors will We have 497 people who receive printed Your donor dollars were hard at work this make this year as successful as last.. copies of this newsletter. We expected to past winter and spring. We started the 2009 year in January by sponsoring Peter cut that number by more than half. Alas, Support for the Bardini Foundation is an we signed on a mere ten new e-mail ad- Croft’s slide show on Climbing in the Si- erra (photo below) at Mill Creek Station. annual need - contributions make up 50% dresses. of our gross income. The entire proceeds from the show went to So bear with me and please reread what the Eastern Sierra Avalanche Center The Dale & Edna Walsh (DEW) Foun- follows AND THEN please act - act while (ESAC). dation will again be matching each dollar you’re thinking about it. received through March 15, 2009. If you have an e-mail address and you The DEW Foundation director, Shai Ed- received this newsletter via the United berg, has made this very generous an- States Postal Service (USPS), you should nual commitment of matching funds. Each reconsider your subscription. of your donated dollars will be doubled.
    [Show full text]
  • Climbers' Guidebooks 551
    2 INDEX GENERAL BOOKS: 1- 530 FICTION: 531 - 542 CAVING: 543 - 547 SKIING: 548 - 550 GUIDEBOOKS (ENGLISH LANGUAGE): 551 - 823 GUIDEBOOKS (FOREIGN LANGUAGE): 824 - 855 WALKING/TREKKING GUIDES: 856 - 866 FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS: 867 - 877 JOURNALS 878 - 947 MAGAZINES: 948 - 964 PHOTOGRAPHS: 965 - 967 1. Abraham, A.P: BEAUTIFUL LAKELAND: Abraham, Keswick; 1920: (2nd) edition. Hardback, 52 pages, 32 monogravure plates (including one on front cover) by G.P Abraham of Keswick, 28.5cm. Head of spine lightly bumped with a 1cm joint split reglued (darkened) at head and base, corner tips also reglued; foxing and browning mainly confined to outer page-edges and endpapers, overall a VG presentable copy. General commentary on the Lake District; enhanced with fine Abraham photographs of the period: £10.00 2. Abraham, G.D: BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS: Mills & Boon; 1937: 4th edition. Pages xvi + 448, 18 plates, 21 outline drawings, 17.5cm. Complete, but pages 49-64 bound out of sequence. Previous owner’s bookplate inside front board; faint water stain lower corner of frontispiece and a slight touch of wrinkling in vicinity; surface glaze dull (8x8cm) on lower rear corner of rear board; slight foxing top outer edge of pages; but otherwise a Near Fine very clean copy in (dust wrapper condition - spine age- darkened, slightly rubbed and tiny loss at base) d/w now protected in a loose plastic sleeve. Primarily a guidebook but also useful for the history of early British climbing: £25.00 3. Abraham, G.D: BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS: Mills & Boon; 1945 5th edition: Pages xvi + 448, 18 plates, 21outline drawings, 18cm.
    [Show full text]
  • Chouinard Equipment, by Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost and Doug Robin­ Son
    Chouinard Equipment, by Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost and Doug Robin­ son. Santa Barbara, California: Sandollar Press, 1972. 72 pages, $.50 What is a commercial catalog doing in the book review section? Doesn’t it list items and prices just like Sears and Roebuck? Yes, but what other catalog quotes the Rolling Stones, Einstein and Yvon Chouinard? Is it geared to the mass sale of equipment? Page 3: “Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.” Chouinard has chosen the ideal place to air his views about a sport he deeply loves. When he first began to denigrate the use of pitons, he was privately accused of hypocrisy. (Your business revolves around pitons and now you’re running them down while you stuff the money in your pocket with your spare hand.) This catalog proves that outlook false. Rather than bolster a lucrative piton market, he has chosen to make his catalog a work of art in which he expounds the joys of “climbing clean” with nuts and runners and no hardware. The cover is a sixteenth-century Chinese mountain painting. Thumbing through the first pages we pass the Moose’s Tooth, Yosemite, a snapshot of Chouinard and Salathé talking in a campground, British seacliffs, a pile of carabiners and a long essay on “The Whole Natural Art of Protection,” by Doug Robinson. Since the introduction of the catalog and the publishing of articles in most mountain periodicals, clean climbing has become widely accepted all over the country.
    [Show full text]