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Eiger Anniversary Climb Irish Team Repeat Barrington’S first Ascent

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Winter 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 128 Eiger anniversary climb Irish team repeat Barrington’s first ascent Vandeleur Lynams First continuous round completed: 273 Irish peaks in just 56 days www.mountaineering.ie Come along and develop your winter Discounts for early bookings, group bookings mountain skills, expand your and aspirant mountaineers knowledge and meet fellow walkers, mountaineers and climbers who enjoy snow and ice For further information: Call the Training Office on 01 625 1112 or email [email protected] A Word from the edItor ISSUE 128 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and éad míle fáilte! As we come to registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, the end of another year, which National Sports Campus, seems to have flown by again, it Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. is always good to do a little Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 stocktaking. the promised indemnity Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 CIt has been another busy year for [email protected] scheme could deliver assured www.mountaineering.ie Mountaineering Ireland, your national ❝ access for recreation in most governing body. CEO Murrough McDonagh and Hot Rock Climbing Wall his excellent staff have certainly been kept on upland areas in Ireland. Tollymore Mountain Centre their toes. Our membership has increased and, Bryansford, Newcastle overall, the numbers of people going County Down, BT33 0PT 2019 walking season (see report, page 6). Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 hillwalking or climbing continue to grow. The Hopefully, this indemnity scheme will help [email protected] numbers engaging in other outdoor activities ensure that responsible access to upland also appear to be increasing, all combining to areas in Ireland is safeguarded. Certainly, Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan exert greater strain on the goodwill of the Éamon Ó Cuív, local TD for Galway West, Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) [email protected] private landowners that we depend upon for speaking at the same panel discussion, Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill access, and on the physical environment in believes the indemnity scheme could deliver [email protected] Ireland’s upland areas. It is important that we assured access for recreation in most upland Features Editor: Aisling Spain come to an accommodation with those who areas. [email protected] live and work in the uplands and others with As usual, I must thank all of the The Irish Mountain Log is published by an interest in these areas. It is also important contributors to our magazine this year for Mountaineering Ireland four times a that we continue to do the best we can to their support for the Irish Mountain Log. We year, in March, June, September, reduce any adverse impacts on the areas we very much depend on those contributions December. The material published in visit and enjoy. and are always looking for articles to include. the Log by the voluntary editorial team and contributors must not be taken as This year’s Autumn Gathering, hosted by Please consider writing an article for the Log, official Mountaineering Ireland policy Galway Walking Club in Clonbur, Co Galway, be it about a recent trip or about a particular unless specifically stated. was very enjoyable. It was also important in aspect of our sport. that, speaking at the panel discussion held on On behalf of the editorial team and the Copy deadline for the Spring 2019 issue the Friday evening, Seán Kyne, TD, Chief Whip board and staff of Mountaineering Ireland, I of the Irish Mountain Log is Friday, February 15th 2019. and Minister for the Gaeltacht, said that the would like to finish by wishing all Minister for Rural & Community Development, Mountaineering Ireland members an Advertising: [email protected] Michael Ring TD, was seeking advice from the enjoyable Christmas and New Year and an Attorney General on an indemnity scheme for active 2019. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, landowners, with the aim of having it in place [email protected] by the end of the year, or for the start of the Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the promotes safety and good practice Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. advice and through the Mountain ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a range of training programmes for To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the Looking back along ridge on Buachaille Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please etive Beag and across Glencoe to walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. Aonach eagach during mountaineering Ireland Winter meet 2018 in onich. PHOTOGRAPH ANdY rAVeNhILL Winter 2018 Irish Mountain Log 3 CONTENTS Winter 2018 James Forrest in the McGillycuddy Reeks on his way to completing the Vandeleur Lynams in just 56 days earlier this year (see report, page 30). News 19 Mourne Wall Restoration 41 Going into the wild NI Water reports By Michael Guilfoyle 5 2019 AGM & Member’s Forum 20 The Youth Climbing Series 42 The Ak-Suu traverse 5 Mountaineering Ireland and Irish Bouldering League Gerda Pauler goes trekking in renews insurance agreement Damien O’Sullivan reports eastern Kyrgyzstan 6 Autumn Gathering 2018 21 New climbing training courses 47 Easter in the Anti-Atlas Anne Brindley reports Jane Carney reports By Orla Prendergast & Joan Dinneen 8 Get Ireland Walking 22 Tips for the new club year Jason King reports on the initiative’s By Ruth Whelan Regulars latest ventures 23 Maths for the Mountains 10 New mountain rescue aid By Jane Carney 50 Access & Conservation trialled on Reek Sunday Helen Lawless reports Donal McNamara reports News Features 52 Training 11 The Local Authority Waters Jane Carney reports Programme 24 Managing the impact of 54 Safety on the hills in winter Sinead Hurson reports recreation in the By Jane Carney 12 Two American climbing MacGillycuddy Reeks 56 Winter gear Patricia Deane reports By Basecamp Dublin staff greats pass away (Mountaineering Ireland responds) Jim Leonard reports 58 Good Practice Guide No 2: 26 Maynooth Hillwalking Club’s Outdoor bouldering 14 Climbfest 2019 20th anniversary By Alan Tees By Angela Carlin & David Fitzgerald Paul Mather reports 16 Sustainable development 60 Books in the uplands 28 Tough Soles Reviews of recent publications Ellie Berry reports Mary Tubridy reports 65 Crossword 17 Host club sought for Gathering 30 Round the Vandeleur Lynams Win a great prize in our Christmas Ruth Whelan reports Patrick O’Sullivan reports Crossword Competition 18 Get Climbing Project 66 The Last Word Natasza Berlowska reports Climbing John Quinn 32 My climbing year By Rhyna Conroy 34 The 2018 Lead Climbing Championship Damien O’Sullivan reports 35 Climbing news in brief Reports by Damien O’Sullivan Features 36 Eiger 160 Panel discussion at the Gathering Dawson Stelfox and friends report xxx on their ascent of the Eiger 160 years 6 AUTUMN GATHERING 2018 after the first ascent 36 THE EIGER 160 EXPEDITION Photographs: James Forrest Collection (James Forrest), Patrick O’Sullivan (Autumn Gathering) (Autumn O’Sullivan Patrick Forrest), (James Collection James Forrest Photographs: 4 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2018 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected] Staff Chief executive Officer Newsdesk Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] 2019 AGM and Members’ Forum Membership Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] The 2019 Mountaineering Ireland AGM Motions must be submitted to the Hillwalking, access and Members’ Forum will be held on & Conservation Officer company secretary at th Helen Lawless, [email protected] Saturday, March 30 , 2019, at 6.00pm: [email protected] training Officer location and venue are to be announced or by post to Jane Carney, [email protected] soon. Company Secretary, training Office administrator Mountaineering Ireland strongly Mountaineering Ireland, Laura Griffin, [email protected] encourages all clubs to send a minimum talent Development Officer Irish Sport HQ, of two delegates to the AGM and to avail Damien O’Sullivan, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15 of their voting rights. Individual members [email protected] by 5.00pm on Friday, March 1st, 2019. Youth Development Officer for also have voting rights and can attend The agenda for the AGM and the northern ireland too. Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland clubs and associated documents will be published Project Coordinator, indoor individual members are invited to put on our website, www.mountaineering.ie, Climbing/Social inclusion Project by March 8th, 2019. Members without Natasza
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