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O Regon Section . Bob Mcgown, Section Chair, Was on Four

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O Regon Section . Bob Mcgown, Section Chair, Was on Four O r e g o n S e c t i o n . Bob McGown, Section chair, was on four continents this year, so Richard Bence took over some of his duties. Bence also maintains the Oregon Section and Madrone Wall Web sites, www.ors.alpine.org and www.savemadrone.org. The Oregon Section spon­ sors the Madrone Wall Web site. In a public study session, Clackamas County unanimously accepted the Parks Advisory Board recommendation not to sell the site for a private quarry or housing development and to move forward to establish a public park. Letters of support were written by over 500 citizens and by organizations including the Oregon Section. AAC member Keith Daellenbach is the founder and long time director of the Friends of Madrone Wall Pres­ ervation Committee. In late fall 2005 the Section sent $2,500 to Pakistan and collected tents and clothing that were shipped by the AAC. In January at the Hollywood Theater, Jeff Alzner organized the Cascade Mountain Film Festival, which raised an additional $6,000 for Pakistani relief efforts. Other contributions came from the Banff Film Festival participants who donated use of their films: Sandra Wroten and Gary Beck. There were also significant donations from Jill Kellogg, Jeff Alzner, Richard Bence, Richard Humphrey, Bob McGown, and others. Mazama president Wendy Carlton acted as MC in making the Pakistan Earthquake Village evening a success. We had over a dozen volunteers from the AAC and the Mazamas, and an estimated 350 people attended. The chair of Mercy Corps, headquartered in Portland, introduced the program. Bob Speik organized a fundraiser featuring Royal Robbins’ program, “40 Years of Adventure,” on March 22 at the Tower Theater in Bend. The proceeds were donated to the Deschutes Basin Land Trust. Jeff Alzner, who climbed Mt. Stuart and several peaks in the Canadian Rockies in 2005, presented us with a large number of excellent photographs soon to appear on the Section’s website, along with his descriptions of the climbs. Jeff continues to work on a memorial video honoring Mike Bearzi, who was one of the first people to develop the M grading system for mixed ice and rock. Wayne Wallace gave two fine talks about his adventures in the Picket Range for the Oregon Section at the Old Market Pub. Wayne, who has completed difficult traverses in the Pickets with his Seattle climbing partners, recently earned the Fred Beckey Award. The Fred Beckey Award is given by the Oregon Section to members who have done outstanding routes in the Cascades. Mike Layton gave a benefit slide show with Wayne Wallace for Madrone Wall. Layton completed the first ascent of Mox Peak’s southeast face and the Washington Pass traverse (See Climbs and Expeditions in this Journal). On behalf of the Section, Bob Speik placed a geo-cache in the vicinity of one of the AAC-donated rescue caches at Smith Rock. In September, Neale Creamer, Jim Onstott, Bob Moshier, and Mark Roddy together with the Friends of Silcox Hut and Timberline Lodge joined to perform the difficult annual maintenance tasks at the Silcox Hut. The Friends also provide hut hosting at Silcox in May to give climbers access to this 1933 WPA structure at 7,000’ on Mt. Hood. It serves as an excel­ lent base camp for south side rescues. In November, Kellie Rice, Access Fund coordinator, put on a Rocky Butte cleanup assist­ ed by AAC members. The cleanup drew 40 volunteers and was a great success in keeping the Butte in good condition. Bob McGown and Matt Brewster climbed a new route called the Pioneer Anomaly on Newton Pinnacle on the north face ridge of Mt. Hood with three 5.9 pitches. They also ascended an overhanging face climb named Gravity’s Rainbow, developing a new 5.10 route on Newton Pinnacle’s south face. Keith Daellenbach was the leader of an expedition to make the first ascent of Mt. Blach- nitzky in southeastern Alaska. Dr Maynard Miller’s glaciological research program is con­ ducted in this glacial region of the Coast Range. Our members Bob Lockerby, Tom Bennett, Clint Veilbig, Keith Campbell, Gary Beck, Bob McGown, and many others continued to volunteer for the construction of the new Maza- ma headquarters building, which is an old classic church and Masons’ Hall in Portland. The Mazamas, with 50 active volunteers, construction manager Jay Levins, and climber-contractor Jim Brewer have completed their headquarters building for the grand opening in January 2007. Bob M c G o w n , C h a ir Service’s management plans for Tuolumne Meadows and the Tuolumne Wild and Scenic River. Sunday’s climbing had most of the group enjoying a number of fine routes on Dozier Dome recently established by Section member George Ridgely and friends. AAC President Jim Donini and his crew of fellow Club members from Colorado joined us for the Donner Summit Climb-munity II in late August. The weather was splitter, and everyone enjoyed great cragging and another fun barbeque and campfire on Bela Vadasz’s beautiful Donner Pass property. Bela has begun exploring the possibility of establishing an AAC-affiliated hut on the property, providing access to the nearby cragging and excellent winter ski-mountaineering terrain. The Section kicked off its series of fall events with the ever-popular Pinecrest Climb-In hosted by Royal and Liz Robbins and Tom Frost in late September. Members and friends gath­ ered to enjoy cragging at Gianelli Edges with crisp fall weather and a wonderful party at the Robbins cabin. Attendees included climbers from the Yosemite Golden Age like Pat Ament and Mike Sherrick, along with his wife Natalie, as well as local Sonora Pass area guidebook author Brad Young. Our thanks to Royal, Liz, and Tom for their usual warm hospitality. Sierra Nevada Section members were part of history by attending the Camp 4 Historic Registration celebration on September 30th and October 1st in Yosemite Valley. A ceremony placing the plaque marking Camp 4’s inclusion in the National Register of Historic Places was held at Columbia Boulder. The Section helped host the celebration including food and refreshments, and clips from a wonderful home movie of an early ascent of the Salathé Wall by Allen Steck and Steve Roper. Luminaries in attendance included National Park Service offi­ cials and AAC past President Nick Clinch, who spoke eloquently of the AAC’s leadership and perseverance in saving Camp 4. We also began the sale of Camp 4 commemorative t-shirts and insulated mugs (they work equally well for hot coffee and cold beer) to raise money for the Section’s ongoing conservation efforts and promote awareness of the AAC. Contact the Section Chair to order yours today! Our members also participated in the tremendous effort of the Yosemite Facelift cleanup organized by the Yosemite Climbers Association. In early November, the Section hosted a fun and successful event with our “Fall High Ball” in Bishop. Quite a few folks made the trip to the Eastside of the Sierra to join our local members for some good bouldering and climbing. And over 100 people attended our party and slide show at Mill Creek Station Saturday evening. This included a good number of road- tripping climbers we met at the campground, boulders, and crags. Thanks to Roger and Mary Lou Derryberry, the owners of Mill Creek Station, for the cool venue and to Lisa Rands for an enthusiastic and exciting slide presentation featuring not only her world-class bouldering, but also hard grit routes in the U.K. and climbing in Patagonia. We also had a successful gear raffle thanks to our supporters at Wilson’s Eastside Sports, Climb-It, Mammoth Mountaineering Supply, Big Sur Bar, and Great Basin Bakery. Thanks also to our own Andy Selters and everyone on the Eastside who helped us promote the event. With the net proceeds of the event, the Sierra Nevada Section was pleased to sup­ port two climbing community conservation initiatives on the Eastside. First, we supplied our friend Scott Justham of the BLM with enough coffee to run the 2006-07 season series of Sunday morning free climbers’ coffee at the Pleasant Valley Pit campground. Second, we were proud to contribute the remaining net proceeds of $400 to the Eastern Sierra Climb­ ers Coalition in support of a human waste management solution for the popular Buttermilk bouldering area..
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