50 TRAVEL The Sunday Sun n JUNE 30, 2019 The Sunday Sun n JUNE 30, 2019 TRAVEL 51

GETTING THERE Air Canada flies between Toronto Pearson International Airport and London, plus Dublin, Ireland, where I boarded a local carrier to . Domestic flights, trains and highways provide connections within TRAVEL Bristol the U.K. Major highways include the London-linked M4. Discover this Replica of 50-ton caravel the Matthew, on which Venetian explorer historic and John Cabot crossed the Atlantic Ocean to North America in gorgeous 1497. IAN ROBERTSON PHOTOS coastal town

IAN ROBERTSON

BRISTOL, England — Cred- ited with discovering New- foundland 522 years ago, Clifton Suspension Bridge over Avon Gorge, with streets of John Cabot still watches over Bristol homes in foreground. his ship in this southwest city’s historic harbour. While walking along Nar- Multicoloured hilltop Bristol homes viewed from inside Bristol Temple Meads train station. IAN ROBERTSON PHOTOS row Quay after crossing the pedestrian Pero Bridge over from Canada and the U.S. Balloons attached to ceiling of M-Shed’s main floor display the River Avon, I recognized Among ships of varying area depict early flight in Bristol. the name on a statue depict- sizes and styles, the SS Great ing a rugged old-time seagoer. Britain is the harbour’s star. “In May 1497, John Cabot Designed by famous Victo- sailed from this harbour in the rian engineer Isambard King- Matthew and discovered dom Brunel, when completed North America,” its plaque in 1845, the 98-metre, 1,961- reads. ton luxury liner was the larg- Born Giovanni Caboto in est vessel afloat, the first big Italy, the Venice citizen was 47 ocean-going ship, and the when he and his crew crossed first iron steamer to cross the the Atlantic Ocean, after being Atlantic, which took 14 days. financed in London and Bris- Four decks housed 120 crew- tol. men, with 360 passengers in King Henry VII authorized cabins. the explorer and his three Retired in 1886 on the Falk- sons to “go and find the new land Islands in the South land,” a term credited with Atlantic, the SS Great Britain providing the name for the became a warehouse, quaran- Golden swan and horn-of-plenty mouldings on the stern side subsequent British colony tine ship and coal hulk, before of the SS Great Britain. that joined Canada in 1949. being scuttled and sunk in Declared a hero after 1937. Financed by donations, performances, circus acts, ties, an aerospace industry, returning from his successful salvaging and repairs children’s activities, street several live-performance the- second voyage — which Can- preceded it being towed to stalls and maritime fun, has atres, a Shakespeare festival, ada and Britain celebrated on Bristol’s dry dock in 1970. Bristol residents Colin Green and Michele Coss enjoy lunch on patio of a bakery and tea shop, attracted 200,000 visitors; and churches including one its 500th anniversary — no Extensively restored, with with Parson Russell dogs — Bandit in his lap, Tedda under the table. Aug. 8-11, the Bristol Interna- bombed during the Second confirmed record survives of gold-painted embossed carv- tional Balloon Fiesta, with World War, a must-see Old Cabot’s fate after sailing away ings on the black hull, the zled due to high winds. became part of the city in the accompanied by their dogs. mass ascents of more than Market area with some in 1498. ship was relaunched in mid- Standing between two hills 1830s. Michele Coss’s small Par- 100 hot-air balloons from 16th-century buildings, the His statue and a full-sized 2005. Guides wearing tradi- 101 metres above Avon There are numerous grand son Russell terrier sat quietly Estate, then huge downtown visitor-friendly replica of the Beautiful A statue of John Cabot next to Gallery on Narrow tional costumes describe its Gorge, the 412-metre-long Victorian terraced homes, below their table, while Colin nightly fireworks and events. shopping centre, Bristol 50-ton caravel Matthew are Quay, overlooking old portland docks. colourful history. pedestrian-friendly iron narrow streets, secluded Green’s remained on his lap, It has attracted more than Museum and Art Gallery, the among numerous worthwhile bridge with sandstone-clad squares, quaint shops, several actively entranced by the 500,000 visitors. year-old Being Brunel sites along the docks, whose wanted to live here ... it was described in three galleries BRUNEL ALSO DESIGNED towers attracts thousands of University of Bristol build- plate fare. Check these websites for museum dedicated to the development began centuries rat-infested.” are a green 1966 locally built STORIED LOCAL BRIDGE tourists annually. Free guided ings, , the Roman Coss told me of happy more information visitbritain. designer’s life and works, ago. Trendy cafes, museums double-decker city transit Bright flares were lit for the tours start at 3 p.m. Saturdays, Catholic , times while working in the com; visitbristol.co.uk; bris- dockside Watershed Media “This was a working har- and shops — including busi- bus, a ceiling covered in hot- Dec. 8, 1864 opening parade Sundays and bank holidays the almost century-old early 1970s at the new tolmuseums.org.uk/m-shed/ Centre and Arnolfini Gallery, bour until the 1970s,” Steve nesses in converted metal air balloons, models of Nick of world-famous Clifton Sus- from Easter to October. restored Whiteladies Picture Toronto headquarters of whats-on. which exhibit contemporary Broadway, a retired architect, cargo containers, are well Park’s Oscar-winning ani- pension Bridge between More than 11,000 drivers House cinema, and 17 small Marks & Spencer, a major One of Britain’s top tourist art, photography and cine- told me as he painted modern worth visiting. mated Wallace and Gromit Leigh Woods and pictur- cross daily, paying £1 toll shops offering antiques, fur- British department store destinations, Bristol has Iron mas, plus live music and Princes Wharf apartment I also recommend nearby figures, and a 10-metre mural esque, highly walkable Clifton fares — about C$1.75 — for niture, jewelry, clothes, plus chain that closed its 47 Cana- Age hill forts and Roman vil- sports venues. buildings in his art book. on Princes Wharf. by local graffiti artists. Village, now a Bristol suburb. the charitable trust that main- art in the restored Victori- dian branches almost 20 las, a wide range of architec- I recommend four-star After the port relocated 11 Dedicated to Bristol’s indus- Volunteers also conduct Interrupted by financial tains the historic span. an-era Clifton Arcade at years ago. ture including rows of multi- Mercure Bristol Grant hotel km downstream from the city, trial history, with special dis- 45-minute tours of stored col- and political issues, it was With just over 10,000 resi- King’s Rd. and Boyce’s Ave. colour hilltop homes, and two on Broad St., which under- which has about 460,000 resi- plays, this museum opened in lections and artifacts, includ- completed five years after dents, picturesque old Clifton While enjoying tea across TIPS cathedrals. went extensive upgrades in dents, the area was vastly Bristol 2011 beside four tall dockside ing the Lord Mayor’s coach, designer Brunel died, and 33 Village is a treat. from the arcade, I saw a man Two annual summer There are also plenty of 2017. In addition to the great improved in recent years, cargo cranes, of which three ship models, large machines, years after construction Featuring numerous and woman on the terrace events: July 19-21, the free pubs, eateries and shops, Keepers Kitchen and Bar, Broadway said. Considered are sometimes operated. artwork, archeological finds, began. pedestrian paths, one of Bris- outside Anna Cake Couture Festival, super and multi-variety street there are hundreds of pieces seedy and derelict, “no one worth exploring Among 3,000 artifacts embroidery and Native art Alas, celebratory flares fiz- tol’s oldest and wealthy areas bakery, enjoying breakfasts, which features music, live art, art studios, two universi- of local art.