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NORTHERN UMBRIA 317 Montefalco Assisi Gubbio Deruta Lake Trasimeno ( P333 ) in Deruta P333 Nulli ( Maioliche

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NORTHERN UMBRIA 317 Montefalco Assisi Gubbio Deruta Lake Trasimeno ( P333 ) in Deruta P333 Nulli ( Maioliche © Lonely Planet Publications 316 www.lonelyplanet.com 317 Northern Umbria Small towns with atmosphere seeping out of medieval, Roman and Etruscan walls. Genera- tions of families who have been living in the same stone farmhouse for 200 years. Fields of vineyards, wildflowers, sunflowers and olive trees. NORTHERN UMBRIA There are endless reasons to visit Umbria. It hosts more festivals, medieval tournaments, outdoor movies, concerts, parades, antique fairs and organic markets than any other place in Italy. Plus, the outdoor activities and walking trails can’t be beaten. Tuscany’s turn on the overcrowded tourist radar has little to fear from Umbria, which is most content to stay wholly off the beaten path. Umbria is Italy’s most rural region, and the only province that borders neither the sea nor another country. Yes, it has the rolling hills, ancient stone villas and expanses of vineyards you’d find in Tuscany, but Umbria is a less manicured place, its untamed geography scat- tered with jagged rock formations and snow-capped peaks. In paintings of Umbria, you’ll notice that not much has changed in the past, oh, 400 years or so. Northern Umbria’s most popular draw – Assisi – still offers ample paths that wind through ancient pink-stone buildings, looking much the same as it did in the days of St Francis of Assisi in the 13th century. Perugia’s range of restaurants, cultural events, museums and churches gives it a historic yet cosmopolitan air. The hill town of Gubbio – famous for its Corsa dei Ceri on 15 May – feels otherworldly any time of year. But the heart of northern Umbria can be found in the smaller towns and countless tiny villages where one could get lost for days. HIGHLIGHTS Take the human-birdcage Funivia Colle Eletto ( p348 ) to Sant’Ubaldo church, perched on top of Monte Ingino above Gubbio Spend an hour reflecting on the life of St Gubbio Francis in the crypt of Assisi’s Basilica di San Francesco ( p334 ) Sip on the famous Sagrantino or Montefalco Lake Rosso at the vineyard of Arnaldo Caprai Trasimeno ( p344 ) in Montefalco Assisi Stay on your own semi-private island in a Deruta youth hostel/agriturismo (farm stay accom- Montefalco modation) on Isola Polvese ( p360 ) in the middle of Lake Trasimeno Try your hand at spinning ceramics on the wheel at Maioliche Nulli ( p333 ) in Deruta 318 NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Perugia lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Perugia 319 PERUGIA stretching from present-day Tuscany into Le both the University of Perugia and several uni- INTERNET RESOURCES pop 161, 390 Marche, it was the Etruscans who founded the versities, including the famous Università per Perugia Online (www.perugiaonline.com) Offers info on One of Italy’s best-preserved hill towns replete city, leading to its zenith in the 6th century Stranieri (University for Foreigners), which accommodation, restaurants, history, activities and sights. with museums and churches, Perugia is also a BC. It fell to the Romans in 310 BC and was teach Italian, art and culture to thousands of The main site, www.umbriaonline.com, lists information hip student town with a never-ending stream given the name Perusia. students from around the world. for every tourist town in Umbria in Italian or English. of cultural events and concerts. Within the During the Middle Ages the city was racked city walls, little has changed architecturally by the internal feuding of the Baglioni and Orientation LAUNDRY for over several hundred years, and a few ho- Oddi families. In 1538 the city was incorpo- Old Perugia’s main strip, Corso Vannucci 67 Laundry (Via Fabretti; h8am-10pm) Wash €3, dry tels and restaurants are in triple-digit ages. rated into the Papal States under Pope Paul (named after home-town artist Pietro Van- €3, single-serve detergents €1. Culturally, however, Perugia is on the edge. III, remaining under papal control for almost nucci, aka Perugino), runs north from the top Two major universities, a steady stream of three centuries. of Rocca Paolina, through Piazza Italia and LEFT LUGGAGE NORTHERN UMBRIA foreigners and a thriving art scene ensure that Perugia has a strong artistic tradition. In into the heart of the city, Piazza IV Novem- Stazione Fontivegge (h6.30am-7.30pm) Costs €3 per Perugia melds the modern in with its past. the 15th century it was home to fresco paint- bre, where you’ll find the Fontana Maggiore bag for the first 12 hours, then €2 every 12 hours thereafter. ers Bernardino Pinturicchio and his master and the cathedral. Almost every listing in this History Pietro Vannucci (known as Perugino), who chapter is within a kilometre of here. Urbano MEDIA Although the Umbri tribe once inhabited would later teach the famous painter Raphael. (city) buses originate from Piazza Italia, while Little Blue What-to-Do This free English-language the surrounding area and controlled land Its cultural tradition continues to this day with extraurbano (intercity) buses drop you off booklet is a must-have for students or anyone staying at Piazza Partigiani. From here, take a few longer than a few hours. Known as the ‘little blue book’, NORTHERN UMBRIA 0 20 km sets of scale mobili (elevators) through the it’s available at the Teatro del Pavone, the tourist office and NORTHERN UMBRIA 0 10 miles Rocca Paolina to reach Piazza Italia. If you newsstands. Find restaurants, housing suggestions, side To Ravenna (100km) SS423 Calcinelli have heavy luggage, watch out: scale mobili in- trips and a description of local characters. Bibbiena E45 Urbino terchange with staircases up the steep hillside. Viva Perugia – What, Where, When The comune di Pieve Sto Fossombrone From the train station it’s an enormous hike, Perugia’s monthly publication (€0.80 from newsstands) Stefano P4 Mondavio especially with that luggage, or a quick €1 bus lists events and public-transport schedules. SS73b ride, 1.5km up the hill to Piazza Italia. TUSCANY LE MEDICAL SERVICES Metauro MARCHE Sansepolcro SS3 SS424 Information Emergency doctor (%075 34 024; hSat & Sun & San Giustino To Florence Cagli BOOKSHOPS nights) (60km) rno A T SS3bis La Libreria (%075 573 50 57; Via Oberdan 52; Farmacia San Martino (Piazza Matteotti 26) This e SS73 v e r e h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Sun) Stocks pharmacy has a list of all the pharmacies that are open Arezzo Città di Castello SS360 a selection of English-language books, as well as maps and 24 hours. Terme di Fontecchio Pietralunga Monte Sasso Lonely Planet guidebooks in Italian and English. Ospedale Silvestrini (%075 57 81; S Andrea delle Santa Maria Parco Ferrato Genga Tiberina Regionale del Libreria Betti (%075 573 16 67; Corso Vannucci 107; Frate) Hospital. SS71 Scheggia Monte Cucco h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) A good selection of English-lan- Alta Valle del Tevere Monte Montone Cucco guage books, cookbooks, guidebooks and dictionaries. MONEY Castiglion SS219 Gubbio Costacciaro (1566m) Fiorentino Banks line Corso Vannucci. All have ATMs, Sigillo Fabriano EMERGENCY known as bancomats. Cashing travellers Foiano Umbertide SS298 SS76 della Cortona Torre Fossato (%075 572 32 32; Palazzo dei Priori) Chiana Lisciano Calaolari Police station cheques inside banks usually garners at least Niccone Santa di Vico Ossaia Giuliana a 2% to 5% service charge, and establishments Gualdo Sanguineto Tadino SS75 Terontola Castel A INTERNET ACCESS that accept them are becoming quite rare. Tuoro p Passignano Rigone p A1 e Borghetto n Over a dozen internet cafés have popped up o i Isola sci n Isola e Petrignano ia Maggiore Torricella s recently, most charging around €1.50 per hour. POST Minore h Lake Magione Colle della C LE If you’re sticking around, ask for an abbona- Mail Boxes etc (%075 50 17 98; Via D’Andreotto 71) Castiglione Trasimeno Trinità MARCHE Montepulciano Nocera del Lago San Corciano Aeroporto Umbra mento discount card from the café you fre- Uphill along a one-way street from the train station, or Isola Feliciano Perugia Sant'Egidio Parco Polvese Regionale del Bastia Monte Subasio quent the most, which will save you about 15% take bus no 7 and it’s just past the Agip petrol station on Ospedalicchio Umbra on 10 hours. Many cafés now have Skype, with the left. Ship packages home by FedEx, UPS or DHL here Brufa Assisi Panicale Chianciano Santa Maria Monte (make sure you’re not shipping any perishables like meat Terme Paciano Torgiano degli Angeli SS75 o accompanying headphones and cameras. Subasio n i SS77 p Chiusi (1290m) o % Bettona T Coffee Break ( 075 571 63 22; Via Danzetta 22; per hr or cheese; they’ll most likely get confiscated). Staff will Città Piegaro Cannara della TUSCANY Parco Deruta Spello €1, wi-fi free; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun) also wrap and box purchases for a small fee. Pieve Regionale e Casalina r Cantalupo del Pausillo e Buy anything from the café downstairs and use its (slow) Main post office (Piazza Matteotti; h8am-6.30pm v Foligno e T Bevagna wi-fi as long as you like. Mon-Sat) Marsciano Gualdo Tempo Reale (%075 573 55 33; Via del Forno 17; San SS71 Cattaneo SS3 Casciano SS3bis dei Bagni San Bastardo Montefalco Trevi h10am-11.30pm) Central and friendly, with high-speed TOILETS Venanzo Bovara connection, ample opening hours and cheap long-distance A growing drug problem in Perugia means To Rome Ficulle To Terni Tempio di To Spoleto LAZIO (130km) (35km) Clitunno (15km) telephone service. it is probably safer to use the bagni (toilet) 320 NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Perugia lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Perugia 321 0 400 m PERUGIA 0 0.2 miles inside a bar or restaurant and to steer clear of A WALK BACK IN TIME To Colle della Trinità (5km); public toilets, where you might come across ACParadis d’Été (5km); B D Camping Il syringes.
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