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„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

There are endless reasons to visit Umbria. It hosts more festivals, medieval tournaments, festivals, It hosts more to visit Umbria. endless reasons are There that borders neither the sea nor and the only province region, Umbria is ’s most rural much has changed in the past, oh, 400 In paintings of Umbria, you’ll notice that not it a historic museums and churches gives cultural events, range of restaurants, ’s Small towns with atmosphere seeping out of medieval, Roman and Etruscan walls. Genera- and Etruscan walls. out of medieval, Roman seeping with atmosphere Small towns of Fields years. living in the same stone farmhouse for 200 been tions of families who have trees. sunflowers and olive vineyards, wildflowers, concerts, marketsoutdoor movies, than any other place antique fairs and organic parades, on turn activitiesin Italy. Plus, the outdoor and walking Tuscany’s trails can’t be beaten. to stay from Umbria, which is most content tourist radar has little to fear the overcrowded path. wholly off the beaten expanses of vineyards it has the rolling hills, ancient stone villas and another country. Yes, geography scat- place, its untamed but Umbria is a less manicured you’d find in Tuscany, snow-capped peaks. with jagged rock formations and tered ample paths that Northern – still offers Umbria’s most popular draw – Assisi years or so. buildings, looking much the same as it did in the days of wind through ancient pink-stone the 13th century. in St on 15 May – hill town of Gubbio – famous for its Corsa dei Ceri The yet cosmopolitan air. But the heart of northern Umbria can be found in the otherworldly any time of year. feels one could get lost for days. smaller towns and countless tiny villages where Northern Umbria Umbria Northern www.lonelyplanet.com

316 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © NORTHERN UMBRIA the surroundingarea andcontrolledland theUmbritribeonceinhabitedAlthough History Perugia meldsthemoderninwithitspast. foreigners andathrivingartsceneensure that Two major universities, asteady stream of PerugiaCulturally, however, isontheedge. tels andrestaurants are intriple-digitages. for over hundred several years, andafew ho- city walls,littlehaschanged architecturally of andconcerts.Within the culturalevents hip studenttownwithanever-ending stream andchurches,with museums Perugia isalsoa hilltownsrepleteOne of best-preserved Italy’s pop 161,390 318 PERUGIA (60km) To Florence Montepulciano NORTHERN UMBRIA Chianciano Terme NORTHERN UMBRIA••PerugiaNORTHERN Chiana TUSCANY Foiano della A A1

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( ( ( ( h % % % % ( % h 10am-1pm &3.30-6pm)Websiteand 075 5730808;ViadelSole6)Ar- 075 5757;www.infoumbria.com 075 5852387;www.egeneration.pg.it; h 075 572 48 41; www.grifoviagge.it; 075 5724841;www.grifoviagge.it; NORTHERN UMBRIA••Perugia NORTHERN 075 5736458;[email protected]; 9am-1pm &3.30-7.30pm h 8.30am-1.30pm &3.30-6.30pm 9am-1pm &2.30-6.30pm agriturismi (farm-stay 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C5 D5 C5 C4 B1 C2 D5 C3 B1 D3 C3 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C6 C3 B5 C2 C4 C2 Il SegretodiPulcinella...... Il Gufo...... Il Cedro...... Enone...... Covered Market...... Coop...... Caffè Morlacchi...... Caffè diPerugia...... Bar Centrale...... Bangladeshi Alimentari...... Primavera MiniHotel...... Pensione Paola...... Pensione Anna...... Locanda dellaPosta...... Hotel SanSebastiano...... Hotel LaRosetta...... Hotel Fortuna...... Centro InternazionaleperlaGioventù.. Casa SpagnoliB&B...... Atena Service...... Albergo Morlacchi...... Università perStranieri...... Sala deiNotari...... (see25) Rocca Paolina...... (see21) Pozzo Etrusco...... Palazzo deiPriori...... Oratorio diSanBernardino...... oe rfn aae...... B5 Hotel BrufaniPalace...... EATING SLEEPING Novembre; Perugia congregates. of thepinkfaçadeare whereallof seemingly and sculptures byDuccio. Thesteps infront , bySignorelli analtarpiece completed.never Inside you’llfinddramatic late themainfaçadewas 1700s;however, until 1587,andthedoorwaywasbuiltin in 1300.Buildingof thecathedralcontinued 1345 fromdesignscreated byFraBevignate the 900s,version wasbegunin yousee achurchthough onthislandsince hasbeen thedral ofSanLorenzo and touristsgatherhere toeatgelato. the politicalcentre of Perugia. Nowstudents period,itwas Inthemedieval civilisations. point fortheancientEtruscanandRoman ofFor thousands years, itwasthemeeting centre of Umbria–isPiazzaIVNovembre. The centre of Perugia –andtherefore the CORSO VANNUCCI Sights On thenorthendof thepiazzais comfortable shoes. comfortable aboutthree orfourhours,andweartaking let atthePerugia touristoffice. Planonit pick uptheArchaeological Itineraries tour fromEtruscantoRenaissancePerugia, archaeologicalFor athoroughself-guided A WALKBACK INTIME 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 h B4 D4 C3 C5 C4 C4 B3 C4 C4 B3 B3 B4 B4 C4 C3 C5 B4 C3 B5 C2 B3 C3 C3 C4 A3 10am-1pm &2.30-5.30pmTue-Sun). Scootyrent...... Scale Mobili(Via deiPriori)...... Scale Mobili...... Scale Mobili...... Intercity BusStation...... Ferrovia CentralUmbra...... Umbria Terraviva...... Mercato MensileAntiquariato...... Velvet...... Contrappunto...... Cinema TeatrodelPavone...... Lunabar...... La Terrazza...... Cinastik...... Bottega delVino...... Wine BartoloHosteria...... Tuttotesto...... Sandri...... Ristorante Sole...... Ristorante Nanà...... Ristorante IlBacio...... Ristorante dalMi'Cocco...... Pizzeria Mediterranea...... uut eui icoao&Gltra.C3 Augusta PerusiaCioccolato&Gelateria.. TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING ( % 075 5723832;Piazza IV book- 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 Al-

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075 NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA elevation ofmanfromthenaturalplane. elevation Comitato Linguistico current inandaroundPerugia. classes Check withthetouristofficeforlistsof all Courses Nestlé, ortake bus7toSanSisto. ously nondescriptfactoryentrance marked late. Drive thegates through of thehumour- their god-granted forcreating talent choco- outfitted Oomp-, er,factoryworkers goabout skybridge,enclosed watching asthewhite- an you’llwendyourwaythrough museum, orEnglish). AfterItalian visitingthesimple latch onto atourgroup(conducted ineither call aheadtoarrange aguidedtour,orsimply year-round, 9am-1pmSatOct-Jan &Mar-May) San Sisto;admissionfree; the exit headingsouthontheE45. west fromthere. By car,take theBonanzano toPontePiazza Italia SanGiovanni andwalk over theyears. Take atrainorAPMbus3from ings housingartefacts thathaven’t stolen been unearthed burialchambers build- withseveral grounds are amassive of expanse partially of theVolumniofamily.Thesurrounding ofa series recesses holdingthefunerary urns burial site. Anunderground chamber contains & 4.30-7pmJulAug) €3/1.50; Volumni About 5kmsoutheastof thecityis OUT OFTOWN Incline.Yggdrasil studio tucked intothecornernearno20, the sure tocheckBe outthegroovy alchemist’s 24 20 16 11 7 6 3 include thefollowing: and sacred stories. mythscal stories,withplantsthatsymbolised reminiscent of theGardenof Edenandbibli- 324 slightly more rigorous than at Università per Stranieri. than atUniversitàperStranieri. slightly more rigorous crowd,thelessons here toamore are serious 5) Catering .comitatolinguistico.com; delleAlpi 3rdflLargoCacciatori TheTree ofGoodandEvil; TheTree ofLightandKnowledge; TheCosmicTree, symbolisingtheforefather ofalltrees; The exit of the Medieval Gardens, symbolisingthe Gardens, TheexitoftheMedieval (alily-padpond) Spring TheCosmogonicOvulation fromanancientfishpond; Remnants & The trickforindependenttravellers visiting Numbered thisgarden locationsthrough Perugina chocolate factory factory chocolate Perugina 12 NORTHERN UMBRIA••PerugiaNORTHERN h Medicinal andedibleplantsusedforcenturies; Medicinal ( % 9am-1pm &3.30-6.30pmSep-Jun, 9am-12.30pm 075 393329;ViaAssisana53;adult/concession , a 2nd-century-BC Etruscan , a2nd-century-BC ( h % 9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri 9am-1pm &2-5.30pmMon-Fri 075 5721471;www ( % 075 5276796;Van istoeither Ipogeo dei Ipogeo dei course. Week-long coursescost€350to€600. asinglescooking appetisers;andthere’s even Umbrian bread, pastaand Day coursesteachnewbieshowtomake or aweek-long professional chefcourseonItaliancuisine. beginnersclass dei Lilla3,Casaglia)Comeforathree-hour English 0756920249;www.cordonbleuperugia.com; Via stay months in advance and don’t even thinkofdriving. stay months inadvanceanddon’teven of cacao,cocoa andchocolate.Ifyou must,planyourhotel knownconcoction hundreds ofboothssellevery October, up toonemillionvisitors. Heldaround thethirdweekof sees from thismostover-hyped offestivals, whichoften .com) MostPerugini (Perugians) know torun,runfaraway tional festivals). Checkwww.bellaumbria.net summer outdoormovies and festivals,than 80gazillionevents, concerts, Perugia –andUmbriaingeneral –hasno less Festivals &Events Bellanca Marco Tours perStranieri Università Cordon BleuPerugia Eurochocolate Eurochocolate Umbra Sagra Musicale Jazz Umbria or www.umbria2000.itfordetails. semester-long accredited programmesforstudents. at€300amonthand intensive languagecoursesstarting andthree-month two- courses isavailable,aswellone-, ofdegree tonameafew. opera andarchitecture, Aseries music, coursesinlanguage,literature,offering history,art, This isItaly’sforemost academicinstitutionforforeigners, .unistrapg.it; 4) Palazzo Piazza Gallenga, Fortebraccio in German andEnglish. in German andhistoryinPerugia fluent andAssisi.Umbrian-born, art butspecialisesin Will meetguestsinanytownUmbria, 3/6hr for upto16people€100/200) [email protected]; renowned conductors andmusicians. renowned conductors Perugia andfeatures frommid-tolateSeptember world- oldest musicfestivals inEurope. Begunin1937,it’sheld €7-50)One ofthe officeViaDanzetti7;tickets ticket 572 2271;www.perugiamusicaclassica.com inItalian; or familyaccommodation. Theschoolcanarrangeprivate at€130perweek. starting throughouttheyear, andfour-weekcoursesstart Two- rants or nightspots for impromptu concerts. rants ornightspotsforimpromptuconcerts. thedayoranynumberofrestau- Giardini Carducciduring passesare alsoavailable.Besure tocheckout weekend cost€10to€100,andweek-long or Jarreau. Singletickets theBuenaVistaSocialClub,ChickCorea andAl Metheny, byhundreds ofjazzgreats, includingPatperformances middle ofthemonth.Inpast,festival hasfeatured for10dayseachJuly,usuallyaroundthe tional performers top-notchinterna- inItalian)Thisattracts .umbriajazz.com ( % ( ( % % 800 462311,0755001107;www 075 5025880;www.eurochocolate 075 5736853,3476002209; ( % (Holy Music Festival; (HolyMusic ( % in Italian0755925012, 075 57461;www

lonelyplanet.com sagre % (tradi- 075 for aone-bedroom apartment. in anapartment,andfrom€550permonth tion from€200permonthforashared room many townscanbevisited ondaytripsfrom if you’re visitingUmbriabytrainorbus,as sioni Perugia hasadecentarrayof hotels and Sleeping Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com chocolate; €5-6.50, car/tent €3/5.50; rocolo.it; perperson StrFontana 1/n,Loc. Colle dellaTrinità; 300m walktothe camp sites. at theSuperalsupermarket, fromwhere it’sa Piazza Italia.Ask thedriver todropyouoff which canbereached bus 9from bytaking Colle dellaTrinità,5kmnorthwestof thecity, The cityhastwocampinggrounds, bothin Camping &Hostels BUDGET rental accommodationyourself: long-term visitors. modation forstudents,businesstravellers and .com; ViadelBulagaio38) date-stamped photos. erty beforehand withthelandlordandtake with thisistocarefully theprop- walkthrough part orallof thedeposit.Agoodwaytodeal renter thatrequires thelandlordtowithhold especially inventing bythe problems caused dents lookingforshort-term accommodation, Perugia have areputation forrippingoffstu- in warnedthatsomeapartmentservices Be RENTAL ACCOMMODATION not much cheaper. historic centre: it’snoisier,lesscharming and Perugia. There’s noreason outsidethe tostay

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pen- and 100shaded sites make thisasafe choice, telephone connection,24-hourhotshowers with shared bathroom€25-40,allinclbreakfast) sansebastiano.it; 4;s€40-50,d€50-70, s ViaSanSebastiano grandmother nowrunsdaily operations,this cantankerous Spanish-speaking the slightly The mottois 17; s€30-38,d€50-58, tr €60-75,allwithshared bathroom) 93; www.perugiaonline.com/bbspagnoli; ViaCesare Caporali initssparserooms. sleep good night’s pensione rugia’s university isanold-school family-style city centre, walkdownViadeiPriori. guide youupthestepsFrom totheright. and get offatthePellini carpark.Signswill Take bus6or7heading towardsPiazzaItalia hostel. simplyfurnished rooms. It has eight own kitchen butdon’twantthelockoutof the €33/52) Pensione Paola B&Bs &Hotels Take bus9and10. curfew andthelockoutisonly10amto2pm. city-centre hostel, butit’sclean,there’s no have(80 beds)anddoesn’t theromanceof the Hostelling International (HI)hostel. It’slarge metres fromthecitycentre isPerugia’s main & sheets€15/22/34/51,towels€1,laundry€3) 4;dm/s/d/trinclbreakfast www.ostellionline.org; ViaCortonese tidy four- tosix-person rooms. Enjoy the16th-centuryfrescoed ceilingsand making dinnerinthewell-stocked kitchen. tel’s terrace, where guestsoften gatherafter wafting soundsof church bellsfromthehos- appreciate countrysideviewand thesweeping exceptions) don’tscare youoff,thenyou’ll curfew4pm lockoutandthemidnight (no sheets €2; 572 2880;www.ostello.perugia.it; ViaBontempi13;dm€15, children’s playground. include hotshowers, laundrysinks,barand like withaswimmingpool.Facilities setting ground has46well-shadedsites inapark- €5.50-7, car/tent€3/5; perperson 29/h,ColledellaTrinità; Strada FontanaTrinità and proximity toabusintoPerugia). area, bocceparty,smallmarket cue pit,TV andplentyof extras(barbe- multilingual staff but there’s alsoanon-site restaurant, friendly Casa SpagnoliB&B Casa Spagnoli perlaGioventù Ostello perlaGioventù Internazionale Centro Hotel San Sebastiano SanSebastiano Hotel Paradis d’Été It’sagreat of betifyouwantuse your h . Itsside-street locationguarantees a NORTHERN UMBRIA••PerugiaNORTHERN mid-Jan–mid-Dec; ( % ( % semplice: simple. Although h 075 5723816;ViadellaCanapina5;s/d 075 5173121;www.wel.it/cparadis; Mar-Oct; Mar-Oct; ( % ( % 075 5735127,34035038 i 075 5737865;www.hotel s ) Ifthe9.30amto ) ( Thiscamping % A few kilo- 075 5011366; NearPe- ( % 325 075

NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA hundreds of years old,thedécor isfromthe thebuilding is Although crawl tomost sights. the centre of Perugia that youcanpractically €85/130/174; online.com/larosetta; Piazza Italia19;s/d/trinclbreakfast no air-con. in amustyreconverted hotel one-star with the lower-priced doubles,asthey’re located and (thankfully)modernbathrooms. Eschew newfurnishings,fortable newparquetfloors and Venetian plaster wallsaccompanycom- back tothe1300s.Ancientstone,frescoes inabuildingdating hotel ispartially housed a locationbothquietandcentral,thisspotless .com; ViaBonazzi9;s€69-98,d€99-128,tr€147; train station). the location(onabusystreet nearthemain wi-fi andtriple-panedwindowsmake upfor filled withwater). Free on-site parking,lobby costore’ orswimintherooftop pool(sadly, restaurant’s ‘chocomenu’, shop atthe‘cho- dedicated tochocolate. Tryitems fromthe pais 134;s€42-65,d€64-124; .chocohotel.it; ViaCampodiMarte fast isavailable (€3to€6).Great value. andbreak- vate bathroom,telephone andTV, and commonareas. Allroomscomewithpri- andairyrooms views complementthebright etly tucked awayinacorner. Themagnificent mother-daughter team isafabulousfind,qui- by adedicated English-andFrench-speaking €84-90; ViaVincioli8;s€42-48,d€60-70,tr .primaveraminihotel.it; fireplaces. antique furnishings, andafew have even are furnishedwithsimplebutcomfortable hoteltwo-star isapopularchoice. Rooms forvisitingparents,enough thisfamily-run tion neartheUniversità perStranieributquiet .it; ViaTiberi 2;s€38-62,d€60-82; Morlacchi Albergo MIDRANGE quiet, butdon’thave alotof heavy luggage. is great ifyouwantacentrallocationthatis thiseclecticplace 4th floorwithnoelevator, with shared bathrooms€25-35,d€45-56; 48;s€35-45,d€50-70,tr€54-80, goanna.it; ViadeiPriori perfectly located nearPiazzaItalia. private-home B&Bisstillgreat value,and 326 Primavera Mini Hotel Hotel Mini Primavera Pensione Anna Hotel laRosetta Hotel Etruscan Chocohotel Fortuna Hotel NORTHERN UMBRIA••PerugiaNORTHERN ai pai ) Thiscentralandquiethotel run ) Thefirst hotel intheworld ( ( % % ( ( % % 075 5720319;www.hotelmorlacchi 075 5722845;www.umbriahotels /fax 0755720841;www.perugia /fax 0755736304;www.alber ) You’ll be so close to You’llbesoclose ( % ( % p 075 5837314;www 075 5721657;www ) Inagreat loca- p ai ) Onthe ) In tels, experience. andatrulyspectacular Spe- uct besides pasta should dropinforaquick uct besidespasta and iswheelchairaccessible. end Umbrianrestaurant, wi-fi (€3per hour) centre. Italsohasa 24-hourconcierge, high- Etruscan ruinsinthesubterranean fitness Swimovermer, andhelpfultrilingualstaff. garden terrace inwhich todineduringsum- impeccably decorated bedroomsandsuites, a cial touches includefrescoed mainrooms, pas hotels.com; Piazza Italia12;s€215,d€320,ste€440-850; lifetime attheHotel BrufaniPalace. Fortuna, orupgradeforanexperienceof a orHotelas-centrally located Hotel laRosetta could save atthealmost- moneybystaying advertising keeps it fullmostof theyear. You amenities scarce,butthelocationandheavy on ourvisitwaslessthanfriendlyandthe Corso Vannucci 97;s€90-108,d€134-170; Locanda dellaPosta TOP END garage. it’llcostyou€20inanearbyparkingwise hotel hasafew free parkingspaces;other- leisure travellers are justascomfortable.The fessors and students debate Nietzsche over focus isthis casualuniversity spot where pro- €9; tourists andpassers-by. and fillingshawermaskebabs tostudents, up good,cheap whoserves from Lebanon, isrunbyafamilyThe tinytiledtakeaway kebab atwhatisreputedly thebestincity. 5pm-2am Tue-Sun) Il Cedro BUDGET listed onp327). diPerugia andCaffe torante Il Bacio –are up alongCorso Vannucci (thebesttwo–Ris- March) dozensof open-airlocalesspring sees abovethe mercuryrises 15°Corso(usuallyin Thefirstgia isstaggering. daysof springwhen tourists, theamountof placestodineinPeru- of thegreat numberofBecause studentsand Eating rooms, the Rosetta isabusiness hotel whererooms, theRosetta and offering conference spaceandmeeting andmodernshowers, puter outlets,SkyTV 19th centuryand1920s.Updated withcom- h Tuttotesto BrufaniPalace Hotel Tue-Sun) (Via UlisseRocchi;meals€3; (Via

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( % ( 075 5728925;[email protected]; % 075 5732541;www.sina h a 11.30am-3.30pm & ) The service The service 8; meals€18; a menu because therea menubecause isn’toneatthismost meals and also sets upadecentoutdoorcafé meals andalsosets ous meals €11; testo (Umbrianflatbread sandwiches). andsavoury crepes,sweet and salads lonelyplanet.com black truffle gnocchi basket. ina parmesan black truffle menu features funkydishes like carrotand Japanese chef (usually Thursday). Theregular (usually onMonday) andsushi made bya hide allsortsof goings-on,such aslive music restaurant and club,thevaulted brickwalls scene. anenoteca Amixbetween (winebar), hotspot onthePerugian dininganddrinking 61; meals€26; fordable. The winelistisequallyimpressive andaf- in apepperandradicchio cream (€6.50). sauce paté withSardinianflatbread (€7)orgnochetti with asmallmenu,thefoodis restaurant.run a15-table Simplyfurnished approximately 47members of family thesame meals €23.50; Nanà Ristorante MIDRANGE dishes. of andpasta as abeautifulselection salads ‘real’ pizzainPerugia, Neapolitan aswell it’s besttocallahead. November. Extremely popularwith students, withpeasandhamin ribbon-shaped pasta) paragus risottoinMay, ortagliatelle (long, Youmayreceiveside dishanddessert. as- ceive menuof aset astarter,maincourse, traditional Perugian restaurant. Diners re- 12;setmeals€14; Garibaldi Thursday andSaturdaynights. €1.60. Itgets toqueue,especially busyenough mozzarella) ble the 12-topping‘hisandhers’. Adddelecta- up pizzasfromthesimplestmargheritato spaceship-sized wood-fired brickoven heats to comehere forthebestpizzaintown.A the historiccentre. it’s oneof theonlylate-nightrestaurants in on Corso Vannucci, pointisthat butitsselling cinino 11/12;meals€11; Ristorante IlBacio Ristorante dalMi’Cocco Ristorante Enone diPulcinella Il Segreto Mediterranea Pizzeria mozzarella dibufala ristorante good,cheap andpizzeriasells h ( % h h to 12.30amThu-Tue) h 075 5721950;www.enone.it; CorsoCavour to anypizzaforanadditional Tue-Sun) 7pm-1am Wed-Mon) Mon-Sat) ( NORTHERN UMBRIA••Perugia NORTHERN % h ( 075 5733571;CorsoCavour206; % Comehere fortheonly h Wed-Mon) It’s agoodsignwhen

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h meals €31;) indoor salon and outdoor tables where and outdoortables indoor salon you placeforstudents withan A popular meeting in chocolate(pasta withdeer). sauce ner withthe ing roomindoors. anddin- Combinedessert offers insummerandasmok- outdoorseating choice of andmeatdishes, and basicpasta afine are prices.Italsoserves worththehigh fanciest sit-downcaféintown,its desserts meals €29; at night. or hotchocolate duringthedayandcocktails expats noshoninternational fare, sippingtea of Students,professors establishments. and drums andleftistrhetoric tothismosthip ribbon bow. ter howsmall, inbeautifulred paperwitha the counter butpaidforatthetill),nomat- wrap alltake-home (picked purchases upat candied fruit,espresso andpastries,thestaff chocolate Knownfordelectable right. cakes, century of business,somethingmustbe 8pm Tue-Sun) notch, asyou’re payingforatmosphere. months. Don’texpectthefoodtobetop- nucci openuppavement cafésinthewarmer Many of therestaurants thatlineCorso Van- CAFÉS or asa –stewedwith Chianinabeef Sangiovese of Thechef cosytables. beautifulthings does with wallsof aroundahandful winebottlesset a low-ceilinged hobbitlike burrowthat’slined 30; meals€32; here forthefood. justtrickyouintothinkingcame might andgranacio withtruffles (granularcheese) notbad,andtheduck The pasta’s and brie(€9).There are great for€5. salads or such as whatever isfreshTrydishes andinseason. gredients fromlocalmarkets andcooksup rants inPerugia, butyou’re here fortheview. chi 6/8; Caffè diPerugia Caffè Morlacchi Caffè Sandri Hosteria Wine Bartolo Bar Centrale Sole Ristorante Il Gufo riso (blackrice)withgrilledvegetablesriso 8pm-1am Tue-Sat) h carpaccio withlemonover radicchio. cinghiale (wildboar)withfennel (€9)

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.cinegatti.it; CorsoVannucci 67) cinema forschedules anddirections. the owners runoutdoormovies; check atthe early togrababox Duringthesummer, seat. nal language (usuallyEnglish) for€4.Come showing films–onMondaysintheirorigi- to fourpeoplefor€16. available; trythehuge antipastoplate fortwo famous DJsonSaturdays(until5am).Foodis on Thursday, discoonFridayandworld- jams are justonWednesday,buttrylive rock now opensitsdoors toallsortsof music.Jazz h about 1am. into town:thescale mobili stoprunningat sobewarnedonyourwayback midnight, ask atthesteps. Mostclubsget goingaround on Corso Vannucci, socheck withthemor 11pm. Studentsget paidtohandoutflyers a bustoPalazzo around Gallenga,starting some of theclubsonoutskirtsof townrun theatre. Whenthestudentpopulationgrows, enjoying thisfascinatingversion of outdoor Tourists mixineasily,slurpinggelati and guitars anddrumschatting withfriends. gregate here playing night, practicallyevery Hundreds of localandforeign studentscon- Maggiore.the cathedralandaroundFontana Much of Perugia’s nightlife paradesoutside Entertainment in boxes withold paintingsof Perugia –great gian recipe. Handmade chocolate bars come covered inchocolate) from theoriginalPeru- old tradition,including his ownshop, creating from the delectables Perugino for25years. In2000,heopened 2; 77; www.cioccolatoaugustaperusia.it inItalian;ViaPinturicchio Perusia CioccolatoeGelateria Augusta Shopping the RenatoCuristadium. for Perugia’s residents. Take bus9,11or13to thegossip, afavouriteas does discussion topic up(ordown)withthetide, availability goes A,BandC,ticket Serie forth between Perugia knockingbackand hasbeen Calcio Stadium,ViaPiccolpasso€2-40) calcio.it; Curi 48;tickets Renato party here hours. untilthewee opens around10pm,butthewell-dressed Come towhere thebeautifulpeopleplay.It

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% around thePiazza 075 592141;www If you’re lucky % (Antiques Market; (Antiques Market; 075 8355062; ( p334 southofDerutaisalovelyenough ) Afew kilometres 0755731707; www.apmperugia.com) an hourand10minutes before ascheduled (€3.50)leavebuses about fromPiazzaItalia all arrivalsanddepartures. Thewhite shuttle two-dozen ecologically friendly buses. two-dozen ecologically friendly buses. Perugia has recently with upgradeditsfleet ( SSIT Perugia operated byAPM Novella). Most routes withinUmbriaare Mariaat 6pm(fromPiazzaAduaSanta day, leaving Perugia at7.30amandFlorence 2½ hours) thatrunsoncedaily,except Sun- also offers aPerugia–Florence (€10.50, service (take thescale mobili Sulga fromPiazzaItalia). anywhere bybus. Sunday, whenit’simpossibletoget justabout pickuptheslack,excepton buses but several townsinUmbriahave notrainstation, Several BUS with theirluggage. leavebuses isofftheplanes onceeveryone minutes into thejourney.Fromairport, departure, 15 stoppingatthetrainstation ( there’s anextremely convenient busline Sant’Egidio costs€25fromthecitycentre, or to Aone-wayorround-triptaxi thrice weekly. toLondonStansted a newRyanairservice % % Intercity buses leaveIntercity buses fromPiazzaPartigiani

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NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA 13 daily),Torgiano (€1.30,25minutes, nine & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pmSat,byrequest Sun) & 3-7pmMon-Fri, Europcar Airport Sant’Egidio alsooffers thefollowing: Maggiore Hertz Avis to 1pmSaturday. to 7pmMondayFriday,andfrom8.30am All are openfrom8.30amto1pmand3.30pm Fontivegge. Stazione the maintrainstation, east connectsthecitywithAssisi. riageway SS75forPerugia. TheSS75tothe exit theA1atValdichiana andtake dualcar- the SS3bis/E45forPerugia. Fromthenorth, follow thesignsforTerni. Oncethere, take From Rome,leave theA1atOrte exitand CAR &MOTORCYCLE tourist office,hotels andsomenewsstands. booklet are andtimetables tails listed inthemonthly it’sbesttotake thetrain. Spoleto orOrvieto, above theterminals. Toget toSpello,Foligno, monitorsand switch there. Checkthe TV Partigiani orpreferably theFCUtraintoTerni Amelia, take anATC Terni busfromPiazza minutes, sixto10daily).Toget toNarnior (€3 to€4.70,50minutes toonehourand10 utes, five Trasimenotowns daily)andLake Gualdo Tadino (€5.20,onehourand20min- (€4.30, onehourand10minutes, 10daily), daily),Gubbio hour and10minutes, seven (€3, 50minutes, ninedaily),Todi(€4.30,one daily) byextraurbano 330 Current trainandbusroutes, companyde- (€2.60,25minutes, headtoDeruta Buses You’ll findthree car-rental companiesat Bevagna and Montefalco. Just make sure andMontefalco. youhave adesignateddriver! Bevagna Justmake best bet. It shouldn’t be missed, especially in May and JunewhenthePianobest bet.Itshouldn’tbemissed,especiallyinMay Grandeisabloomwithwildflowers. a carwillgetyououtto Fattoria diVibioagriturismo( p377 renting wheels. itworth ) foralunchthatmakes Wine region Lake Trasimeno La Scarzuola Castelluccio TOP FIVEPLACES INUMBRIATOVISITBY CAR monastery-concert theatre. monastery-concert monument-Franciscan in themoodtoappreciate thestunningmysteryofthiscombination garden-architectural meander throughfieldsofsunflowersandolive trees. ( % ( NORTHERN UMBRIA••PerugiaNORTHERN % ( /fax 0755000395;[email protected]) % ( Viva (€1),available atthe Perugia 075 5002439;[email protected]) % 075 6920615;www.europcar; 075 5007499;www.maggiore.it inItalian) ( p387 isyour sodriving ) There are onlytwobuses tothistown:Thursdaymorningandafternoon, ( p344 toopentastingroomsthepublicin therollinghillssurrounding ) Vineyardsare juststarting ( p372 here fromjustaboutanywhere willsetyou listedinthisbook,thebeautifuldrive ) Ahike ( p356 ) It’spossibletogethere andaroundusingthetrainbus,butacarwill allowyouto orbycitybus5A,Assisi ( p377 establishmentswillpickupguests attheFrattaTodinatrainstation,but ) Many h 8.30am-1pm 8.30am-1pm Tren Italia tion, callTren with acredit cardorcash.Fortraininforma- at theautomated machines atanytimeof day 12.50pm to1.20pm),butyoucanbuytickets forlunch open from6.30amto8.10pm(closed fromPiazzaItalia.Theticketbuses officeis city centre andeasilyaccessiblebyfrequent Vittorio Veneto, afew kilometres westof the simplyreadsstation ‘Perugia’. ItisonPiazza Fontivegge’,named ‘Stazione thesignat Perugia’sAlthough is main train station TRAIN or Terontola tothenorthwest.Regulartrains always achange inFolignotothesoutheast the Ponte SanGiovanni station. Ipogeo from deiVolumni,walkingdistance visitingtheEtruscannecropolis cept forthose tions –which are located inthesuburbs–ex- won’t make of use Perugia’s othertrain sta- Perugia isonaspurline,sothere’s almost details. buses stopinAssisi. Checkthewebsite for 8.30am onSundaysandholidays. Several 9am MondaytoSaturday,and7.30am leave Piazza Partigiani at6am,8amand 4.30pm. HeadingbacktoFiumicino, buses on Sundaysandholidaysat12.30pm 12.30pm, 2.30pmand5pm,twobuses at9am, (€15, 3½tofourhours)departing day, there are fourdailybusestoPerugia tional terminal C.FromMondaytoSatur- .sulga.it) Pick upablueSulga Rome’s Fiumicino toPerugia. (FCO)airport It’s quite adirect easytotake busfrom ARRIVING FROMFIUMICINO? busacrossthestreet frominterna- ( % 89 2021) ( %

800 099661;www . Mosttravellers lonelyplanet.com reach Assisi (€1.65,25minutes, hourly),Gub- two hours).every WithinUmbria,it’seasyto and Arezzo (€4.50,onehourand10minutes, hours), Florence (€7.90to€12.50,twohours) run toRome(€10.10€18.45,2¼three lonelyplanet.com tourists may drive totheirhotels todropoff residential (although orcommercial traffic and mostof thecitycentre isonlyopento Perugia tonavigate ishumourously difficult CAR &MOTORCYCLE time.same yourlifeand taking inyourhands,allatthe feel like areal transporting yourself Italian, scooter rental. Forabout €20aday,youcan 05; www.scootyrent.com; ViaPinturicchio 76) so expectittoberunningby2012orso. tohavewas supposed finished by2003, been railsystemfor €8.60.The‘mini-metro’light stick aroundforawhile,buy10-ticket pass thecity.Ifyou’reconists) throughout goingto orat inPiazzaItalia, station, the smallgreen buskioskinfrontof thetrain and PiazzaItalia.Buyyourbusticket from thetrainstation 9, 11and15runbetween 6,7, can buyoneonthebusfor€1.50.Buses the spot.Ifyouhaven’t aticket, bought you ticket uponboardingoryouwillbefinedon in thehistoriccentre.sure tovalidate Be your costs €1andtakes youasfarPiazzaItalia withluggage. forthose Thecitybus essential recommended, soabusishighly train station, It’s asteep1.5kmclimbuphillfromPerugia’s Getting Around (€3.05, onehourand10minutes, 16daily). 45 minutes, 19daily)andCittàdiCastello polcro lineheadsnorthtoUmbertide(€2.05, Terni (€4.40,1½hours, 17daily).TheSanse- 18 daily),Todi(€2.55,50minutes, 18daily)or Monte diVibio(€2.05,40minutes, Castello trains. with allotherItalian your ticket onboard,notbefore boardingas to Rome(switch inTerni). Youmustvalidate ied ‘ThomastheTank Engine’trainsalsohead Sant’Anna, Piazzale Bellucci) Umbra Umbria require arideonthe other hour). every (€6.10 to€6.80,1¼hours, atleast and Orvieto Foligno), (€2.05,30minutes, hourly) daily,changebio (€4.30,1½hours, seven in Give About halfof the touristdestinationsin Take Todinafor theFCUsouthtoFratta (FCU; Scootyrent % 075 575401;www.fcu.itinItalian;Stazione NORTHERN UMBRIA••Torgiano NORTHERN ( % . These adorablegraffit- . These 075 5720710,33310265 tabacchi (tobac- Ferrovia Central Central Ferrovia acallfor two five-star hotels. of andthesecond Umbria’s lent wine museum owns manyof thelocalvineyards,excel- days, bria hastoaruling noble familythese thingUm- the Lungarottifamily, theclosest theworldfor itsfinewines,and throughout from Perugia’s PiazzaPartigiani, isfamous ucts. Torgiano, justa25-minute busride prod- Italian, Umbrian,andindeed portant twomost im- town, amonumenttothese Fans of wineandolive oilwillappreciate this pop 5862 TORGIANO €12. Tack on€1foreach suitcase. Fontivegge, Stazione willcostabout station, % (24 hours adayinJulyandAugust)–call Taxi are available from6amto2am services TAXI way outof Perugia. ing information. towedorforgeneralyour carhasbeen park- including acarparkjustnorthof thestation. to 1pmand4pm7pmMondayFriday, chargenear thetrainstation onlyfrom9am with anypurchase. Also,manyof thespaces wherestation, youcanparkfree fortwohours p328 ) onPiazzaVittorioVeneto just parkingforawhile,trytheCoop(see from theticket officeatthecarpark.Ifyou’re abbonamento (unlimited parkingticket pass) acarparkfrequently,tend touse buyatourist hours aday,inthecitycentre lots.Ifyouin- or1amand6am7am. about midnight hours aday,andtheyusuallystopbetween centre, buttake note: theydon’toperate 24 (lifts) leadfromeach carparktowardsthecity cated atPiazzaCupa. and PiazzaleEuropa. Thefree carparkislo- Sant’Antonio, VialePellini, BrigliediBraccio the mostcentralandconvenient, plusViale azza Partigiani andtheMercato Copertoare Perugia hassixfee-charging carparks:Pi- Parking getting towed. park illegallyfortoolongyouruntheriskof are more lenientonrental cars, butifyou luggage). Rumourhasitthatparkingpolice A ridefromthecitycentre tothemaintrain Your bestbetissimplytorent acaronyour theinformationline Call Parking fees cost€0.80to€1.20perhour,24 075 5004888toarrange pick-up. Scale mobili ( % 075 5775375)

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NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA ( below ) ortheBrufasculpture gardenhere. theStradadeiVinidelCantico wine-tasting, 03 00; Via Garibaldi 10;adult/concession€4.50/2.50; 03 00;ViaGaribaldi organise the andabroad,theLungarottifamilyhelped Italy of photosfromthe1950s. techniques sitalongsideapersonal collection graphic art,winecontainers andproduction back toEtruscantimes.Displaysof utensils, tory of theproductionof wineintheregion The 20-roomformerpalacetracesthehis- by theLungarottimatriarch, Maria Grazie. & 3-7pmsummer,to6pmwinter) dell’Olivoedell’Olio€7,audioguide€2; Museo Emanuele31;adult/concession€4.50/2.50,incl Corso Vittorio delVino rope, Torgiano’s Museo inEu- winemuseum The mostimportant Sights &Activities 12pm &2.30-5pmTue-Sun) office Tourist Information 332 With supportfromresearch institutes in Italy toeat, drinkandenjoy the view. quench thethirstof anyonewhocomesto beautiful landscapes andplentyofspotsto archaeology, stone farmhouses, stunningly (or, forthebrave, bybicycle)tofindancient terest towinelovers. Followthe mapbycar in- agriturismi andrestaurants ofparticular and brochures listingthevineyards,hotels, Tourist officesinalleighttownscarrymaps nara, Spello,Assisi, TodiandMarsciano. route ofTorgiano, Perugia, Bettona,Can- wine routes, encompassingthetourist and family (in fact, thedaughterand family(infact, ofGiorgio’s headcarpenter isnowChiara’ssecretary). more landinUmbriathananyotherentity,butstillmaintainthatUmbriansenseofcommunity La LA STRADADEIVINIDELCANTICO Turismo delVino while Chiara’sknowledgeofoenologyandtravel earnedherthepresidency ofItaly’s the familybusiness. Teresa andcommunicationsfortheLungarotti focusesonmarketing empire, degrees inagronomyfromPerugia’s university, ChiaraandTeresa haveof onasector eachtaken well-known womeninItalianwine. Withalifetime spentinthevineyardsaroundTorgiano and Lungarotti andTeresa Severini tookover thefamilybusinessandhave becometwoofthemost Afterbecome oneofUmbria’smostfamousexports. Giorgio’s passingin1999,daughters Chiara andpatriarchGiorgioFounded inthe1960sbywinemaker Lungarotti, theLungarotti vineyardhas THE LUNGAROTTI FAMILY deivinidelcantico.it) NORTHERN UMBRIA••Torgiano NORTHERN Strada deiVini delCantico ( Museo dell’Olivoedell’Olio Museo % 075 9886037;Piazza Baglioni; is oneofUmbria’sfour (www.movimentoturismovino.it Pickupinformationon wasstartedin1974 ( % (www.strada 075 9880200; h

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INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bar Sabatini...... 1 C2 Accademia Lingua Italiana 8 Piazza Police Station...... 2 C2 Assisi...... 7 C2 Superiore di San Post Office...... UMBRIA••Assisi NORTHERN 3 A2 Basilica di San Francesco.... 8 A1 Francesco n Sa o ia m Post Office...... 4 D4 Basilica di San Francesco Via V co 9 Gia Tourist Office...... 5 C2 Information Office...... 9 A1 V Merry V i ia a 23 Del Val V Tourist Office Branch...... 6 D4 Basilica di Santa Chiara.... 10 D3 D ia d V Sa e V St ia n l Chiesa Nuova...... 11 C3 e la F ll M C 16 To Perugia r a ro R Duomo di San Rufino...... 12 D3 a et c o (15km); t a e cc e s a Foro Romano...... 13 C2 Piazza ta Gubbio E sj Inferiore di San li V o Piazza Chiesa Nuova...... 14 C3 (32km) a V ia i S 15 Francesco a an Pinacoteca Comunale...... 15 B2 Vi G Fr V Free Porta San a F ior an ia d on g ce 21 V el C Rocca Maggiore...... 16 C1 te e s V V olle Francesco tt c i ia V 35 b i o a ella Sa ia Sala delle Reliquie...... (see 8) i n Vicolo San a A l Piazza Unità P S e l a u o A Lorenzo Tempio di Minerva...... 17 C2 V l g d'Italia i o a G V g ia t i S V a 34 3 a i te o ia M Via de B fan l Fo r S ss i P a Porta o Cup z a SLEEPING r o i Piazzetta o 18 c lo V o San Pietro V Garibaldi ia Albergo Il Duomo...... 18 D2 n i a i d a i B 24 c o 1 ia Porti rli e en Camere Santa Chiara...... 19 C3 r V ca e l ga V 7 a P C m rt o la S V ia o il Hotel Grotta Antica...... 20 C2 a 29 i Piazza P m To Angelucci Andrea Cicli n a B ia V P A d ia no u n del V S fi V n a Hotel Il Palazzo...... 21 B2 i a a u i Riparzione Noleggio; et to n R Piazza e ro n Q Comune Vi V V Ostello della Pace io u a S San e Hotel Pallotta...... 22 C2 V in G c ia C t r i ch (1km); Acquazzura (4km); le r a ab Rufino v io V is v ri o Hotel San Francesco...... 23 A1 i o a e B Train Station (4km); tt f ll l d o a e e lo 24 D2 ri n ll o Hotel San Rufino...... Basilica di Santa Maria o E i ’A 12 ic ma Via Sa onio ddo V Piazza degli Angel (14km) nu nt’Ant Hotel Umbra...... 25 C2 ele lo Matteotti ra La Fortezza...... 26 C2 V ese ta ia Sa Agn Residenza San Crispino.... 27 C3 nt’ 33 0 100 m a Via S Maria V zz St Anthony's Guesthouse..28 D3 a Fort e See Enlargement ia V 13 ll delle Rose i 25 17 Vic de S a olo Porta i 5 Piazza C Gal o h Cappuccini EATING i Santa Chiara i 28 e r Arch a a To Monte o Piazza del r z li Palazzo 26 z g a o Buca di San Francesco...... 29 B2 ia g Comune Subasio (1km); e e 10 r V dei Priori o A D V n l G 2 Via San R ia V e Camping/Hotel Hotel Grotta Antica...... (see 20) a i s ll a uf o i i s S e P no M a V a i Fontemaggio (3km); a i d t o rta La Fortezza...... (see 26) i a 22 in rt d V Po B V M P ic e i Via o Eremo delle Carceri a a l a r Medio Evo...... 30 C3 icolota o i V l g ce l r r ia a P (4km); Agriturismo alla c o ll V o S o i i M V Vo A r G z Trattoria Pallotta...... (see 22) V e A Madonna del Piatto (7km) Q cc P a z ia h a b e o r u i i i ri n e i B V e e s t n i le a t d t d d in a a a e o v c l a s l' DRINKING l 20 Piazza Chiesa A le u 14 d B Nuova d Gran Caffè...... 31 D3 lo o co 30 lo i 11 ra Vico V t Porta 4 lo S a Nuova TRANSPORT ant’ o 31 Antoni C I o o APM Bus Station...... 32 D4 r rt 19 so e 6 b APM Bus Station...... 33 D3 M m nt'Ag 32 iale U Sa ne a V Intercity Bus Station...... 34 A2 ia s z V e z Piazza i Taxis...... 35 A2 27 n Piazza della Vescovado i Palestra Via S e Chiesa di Chiara S r ia a 335 V n Santa Maria Piazza To Fuori Porta;

Apolli Maggiore Santa Chiara To Santuario di Hospital (700m);

San Damiano (1.5km) Foligno (17km) NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA to 6pmNov-Easter,7.15pmholidays) Germany, EnglandandFlandersGermany, duringthe the work of master in from craftsmenbrought 1228 and1230.The stained-glasswindowsare 6pm Nov-Easter,to7.15pm holidays) and Eve intheGardenof Eden. biblical fresco shows thedisobedientAdam nouncing hisfather,whilethecorresponding thefifthfrescoinstance, showsStFrancis re- way totranslateimages. theBiblethrough For in StFrancis’life were tiedtothe scenesasa poor, whowere mostlyilliterate. Thescenes Bibliae Pauperum: openpublicBiblesforthe of theirday,turningbiblicalpassages into and sister. ‘brother’ andtheeartharoundhimmother with Francis’ideathatthehumanbodywas Jesus.human, suffering Thiswasinkeeping ral backgrounds,peopleof anda allclasses manesque periodswere eschewed fornatu- flat iconicimages of theByzantineandRo- in theWestern world.Allthegoldleafand in thebasilicaliterally art revolutionised have painted thefresco cycle).Thefrescoes not ormight whomight or PietroCavallini, New Testament (possibly painted byGiotto, 28 corresponding images fromtheOldand image isacorresponding biblicalfresco with aroundthechurch.clockwise Above each of andcontinuesjust totheright thealtar art-historian community.Thefresco starts produced itisnowunderdebate withinthe hundreds of years, butthequestionof who attributedbeen toGiottoandhispupilsfor part fresco circlingthewalls.Thefresco has famous piecesof artintheworldis28- osity isreadily apparent. Oneof themost 1253, andthechange instyleandgrandi- after thelowerchurch, 1230and between Hill. outcasts. Thearea isnowknownasParadise had diedonthecross amongcriminalsand bury himhere inkeeping withJesus, who century. StFrancisasked hisfollowers to executed atthegallowshere untilthe13th as Colled’Inferno (Hell Hill).People were until atleast2010. than agrainof –willprobably go on sand from crumbledbits,somenotmuch larger ration –includingpiecingtogether frescoes 1997.YearsSeptember of resto- painstaking 336 The basilicawasbuiltonahillknown The frescoThese painters were the storytellers The NORTHERN UMBRIA••Assisi NORTHERN lower church upper church ( h ( h 6.30am-6.50pm Easter-Nov, to 8.30am-6.50pm Easter-Nov, was built between was builtbetween wasbuiltjust Chiara; middle of the13thcenturythatFranciswas wroteSt Francis,Thomasof inthe Celano, calm inthispainting.Thefirst biographerof most accurate. Francisappears peacefuland depictionofintact St Francisisconsidered the much tampered hasbeen with,butCimabue’s Madonna inMajesty transept, , intheright who hadpersonally Inthe knownthesaint. hand accountfromStFrancis’twonephews, hewastheonlyartisttogetbecause afirst- painterportant whoworked inthischurch Francis hadlived it. John hadwrittencal because thegospel,but IX decidedthattheimage wasnothereti- pared withFrancis.In1234PopeGregory we’re assumingisbeingunfavourably com- other sideof Mary istheapostleJohn, whom with herthumbtowardsStFrancis.Onthe holdingthebabyJesusis seen andindicating sial, ends withhismostfamousandcontrover- obedience andchastity. the precepts on:poverty, hisorderwasbased of Francisover andthe other three were evil, greatest allegories’.Thefirst wasthevictory represent whatStFranciscalled‘thefour to Maestro delleVele, apupilof Giotto,that arethe mainaltar, fourfrescoes attributed ramparts andastrikingfaçade. Thewhite and 13th-century Romanesque church, withsteep Basilica diSantaChiara CHURCHES &MUSEUMS by Francis. Rule parchment, the relicmost important here istheFranciscan his celebrated andfragmentsofsimple tunicandsandals itemstains fromStFrancis’life, includinghis % flection. aroundthetomballowsforquietre-seating laidtorest. bodyhasbeen the saint’s Bench lower church: thecryptof StFrancis,where basilica complexisdownstairs fromthe of akindlyaspect. an eloquentman,of cheerful countenance and feat atthattime. 13th century,andwere quite anarchitectural The basilica’s Cimabue wasthemosthistoricallyim- Lorenzetti’s triptych inthelefttransept In thecentre of thelowerchurch, above One of themostmoving locationsinthe 075 819001; Madonna WhoCelebrates Francis h 6am-noon &2-7pmsummer, to6pmwinter)

h Canticle of the Creatures. The 9am-6pm, 1-4.30pmholidays) Sala delleReliquie ( Book of Life composed % 075 812282;Piazza Santa

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(Relics Hall; (Relics . Mary

con- is & 2.30-7pm,to6pmwinter) shops on the piazza open their basements to shops onthepiazzaopentheirbasements church butretains itsimpressive pillared Comune andPalazzo deiPriori,isnowa tesque figures animals. andfantastic The façadeisfestoonedbaptised. withgro- wherefountain St FrancisandStClare were the zzo Alessiinthe 16th century,contains an Assisian nobleman, StClare wasaspiritual came fromnearbySubasio. Thedaughterof in Assisi looklike theyglowinthesunlight) stonethatmakes(the same manybuildings pink stonethatmakes uptheexterior here lonelyplanet.com Rufino onPerugia.went medieval Assisiansthe archer asthey slotsthatserved andclaustrophobic passageways toreachcases degree viewsof Perugia. Walkupwindystair- pillaged andrebuilt hillfortress offering 360- Rocca; admission€2; century nant viewof thevalley,ismassive 14th- Giotto’s school. artandfrescoes from Umbrian Renaissance Mar) 10am-1pm&3-5pm16Oct-15 Oct, 16 Mar-15 10; adult/childinclForoRomano€3/2; nale Via SanFrancesco,thecity’s upper church. Heading northwestwards up age tothe Simple Man fresco intheBasilica’s peace, isfeatured asthebackdroptoHom- pagan temple, dedicated tothegoddessof to Romantimes.Theturn-of-the-millennium façade withsixfluted columnsdatingback on holidaysat10am. Mass dailyat7am,withanextraservice issaid mer, 6.30am-noon&2-6pmwinter) 23 39;Piazza ChiesaNuova; reveal Romanruins.TheChiesaNuova 1.30pm &2-6pmsummer,to5pmwinter) adult/childinclPinacoteca €3/2; 53; ViaPortica; excavated Piazza delComune,oncethesite of apartially here.Francis isalsohoused tohavezantine crossthatissaid spoken toSt She isburiedinthechurch’s crypt.TheBy- nowknownasthePoorClares. Poor Ladies), Sorelle Povere Chiara(Orderof diSanta the contemporary of StFrancisandfoundedthe reputed of tobethehouse StFrancis’family. Philip IIIof Spaininthe1600sonspot The 13th-centuryRomanesque Dominating thecity,withanequallydomi- The From thebasilica,take ViaSChiarabackto ( % ( % , facingPiazzadel Tempio diMinerva 075 812033;Palazzo Vallemani, ViaSanFrancesco Rocca Maggiore 075 816016;Piazza SanRufino; Foro Romano

h NORTHERN UMBRIA••Assisi NORTHERN 10am-sunset)

h , remodelled byGalea- (Roman Forum; 6.30am-noon &2.30-6pmsum- ( %

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% h ( displays % 7am-noon 075 8130 10.30am- 075 81 San Paolo 36) Italiana Cultura Accademia dellaLinguaItalianaCorsidi e Courses .angeluccicicli.it; VGBecchetti31) Noleggio CicliRiparazione rea brochures andmapsaswell. the area, andthetouristofficecanhelpwith ing andmountain-biking guidesandmapsfor Subasio. allsortsof Localbookshops sell walk- St Francis’footsteps toGubbio(18km). peregrination, includingaroute thatfollowsin onsuch a The touristofficehasmapsforthose orSanctuariodiSanDamiano onfoot. Carceri of Assisi. Many make thetrek toEremo delle pilgrimagenight walksleadingintoandout ate theplethora of strolls,dayhikes andover- andnatureSt Francisbuffs lovers willappreci- Activities Transito on3October 1226. Francis diedatthesite of del theCappella Crucifixion,paintedtact ontherear wall.St Chapel. Perugino fanswillappreciate hisin- Franciscan monastery andtinyPorziuncola 1565and1685aroundthefirstbuilt between & 2.30-8pmsummer,6.15am-1pm2.30-7.30pmwinter) ( imposing Subasio orpicnicsundertheoaks. Montejumping-off pointforwalksthrough St Francis’time. Eremo isagreat delleCarceri tourist paths, remains everything asitwasin and hisfollowers. Apartfromafew fences and functioned ashermits’retreats forStFrancis God. The Francis retreated toafter hearingthe wordof Easter-Nov, tosunsetNov-Easter) Carceri well asitscloisters andrefectory. convent foundedbyStClare in1212here, as ticle of the Creatures. Youcanvisittheoriginal the voiceof Jesus andwhere hewrote his 2-4.30pm winter,vespers7pmsummer&5pmwinter) sion free; diSanDamiano Santuario Around 1.5kmsouthof Nuova, thePorta the SITES FRANCISCAN Angeli andatOstello dellaPace built onthespotwhere StFrancisfirst heard % Bicycle rentals are available atAngelucciAnd- About 4kmeastof delle thecityisEremo A popularspotforhikers isnearbyMonte isthe A quickwalkfromthetrainstation 075 8 05 11; Santa Maria degliAngeli; 075 80511;SantaMaria ( % h runsavariety of courses, including 075 812301;admissionfree; (prisons)arecarceri thecaves that 10am-noon &2-6pmsummer, Basilica di Santa Maria degliAngeli Basilica diSantaMaria ( % /fax 0758152 81;www.aliassisi.it;Via , thehermitage thatSt

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NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA fashion. inmedieval festival whichcelebratesspring Colourful May) sions and performances. sions andperformances. Perugia andAssisi. whowalkthe24kmroutebetween than 150,000pilgrims more largest peacemarch.Itbeganin1961andattracts and around Assisi andcan assistwithbook- there are 17), flatsand private rooms,religious institutions(of which tion wellinadvance. to bookaccommoda- Francesco, youwillneed andduringtheFestaand September, diSan that inpeakperiodssuch August asEaster, town popularwithtourists.Keep inmind which ensures thebestpricesinanyUmbrian Assisi hasaphenomenalamountof rooms, Sleeping dellaPace Marcia Festa diSanFrancesco Festa diCalendimaggio Santa Settimana Festivals &Events of instruction. atabout €300fortwoweeks and costsstart There’s amaximumof 12studentsperclass teacherfor theCILS(Italian abroad)course. and cooking.Italsooffers free preparation language,Italian culture, singing,painting 338 religious event inthecity. religious event The touristoffice hasacomplete listof pretty mucheveryone else. after hisdeathin1226,andnamedthepatronsaintofecologists, merchants,lepers,animalsand hospitals; andhislove ofnatureFranciswascanonisedsoon efforts. ledtoorganised conservation toanimalsinspiredseveral someofEurope’s hospices;hislegendarykindness firstknownanimal his way.Meanwhile,followingwasgrowingbackhome. care His oftheterminally illstarted the bemusedSultanapproachedbyFrancisinmidstofaCrusadeEgypt sethimfirmly gone horriblywrong,withmixed –theFrench successwinningconverts were unimpressed, and can convent. Francissetoffonagruellingtripthatsoundslike off herhair,devoted herselftoFrancis’ruleofcharityandpoverty, andsoonledthefirstFrancis- off hisclothes,donnedanUmbrianpeasantrobeandmoved intoahut. everyonecut himoff–butFrancisshocked byembracingpoverty. The formerfashionistathrew cloth fromhisdad’swarehouse toraisefundsforhischurch.Outraged,dadthreatened to back, hereturned toAssisi achangedman.Hebegangiving awaymoneytolepers,andtook and signedontofightawarinNaples. Butwhenhehadadream inSpoletotelling him toturn a yearinjailforjoininganattackonrivalcityPerugia c1201.Heemerged spoilingforafight, and aflairforfashionthatimpressed even hisfellow Italians. Butallthatdidn’tsave himfrom rags tale. YoungFrancisofAssisi hadcharm,wit,aplaceinhisfather’sboomingtextile business, How didasmall-townguybecomethemostbeloved saintofCatholics? It’syourclassicrichesto POOR MRPOPULAR: ST FRANCISOFASSISI NORTHERN UMBRIA••Assisi NORTHERN Others soonfollowedhisexample,includingalocalteenage heiressOthers namedClare, whohacked (EasterWeek)Celebratedwithproces- (1st week in October) ThisisEurope’s (1stweekinOctober) (3 and 4 October) Themain (3and4October) (starts 1st Thursday after 1 1stThursdayafter (starts optionsin agriturismi bungalow with kitchen €32-110) bungalow withkitchen car €6/5/3,dm/s/d/tr/q€20/35/52/72.50/96,4-to6-person .fontemaggio.it; 8;perperson/tent/ ViaEremo delleCarceri Fontemaggio Camping/Hotel BUDGET the streets. camere (roomsforrent) signsasyouwander keepings inapinch. aneyeoutfor Otherwise, popular, so bookahead. extras, but thenineroomsare understandably Comune. Forthispricethere aren’t toomany leyway justastone’s throwfromthePiazzadel rufino.it; VicoloSanLorenzo; s/d€36/47) just packed lunch (€6.50)ordinner(€9.50). are availableand half-board or,ifyou prefer, Assisi. There’s alaundryroomforguests.Full Mariaroute Santa between degliAngeli and and hasgreat pillows.It’sontheshuttle-bus family run,inabeautifulandquietlocation, Jan; .com; ViaValecchie 177;dminclbreakfast €15-17; justkeep youfortheevening. might a beautifulwalkintotown,buttherestaurant taste. OnthewaytoEremo it’s delleCarceri, hotel rooms offer upabedforjustabout any full complementof bungalows,campsites and probablywouldhaveFrancis himself A stayed. this isalovely choice one-star onaquietal- SanRufino, folkswhorunthetwo-star same Albergo IlDuomo Albergo Ostello dellaPace Ostello pi

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on Vicolo della Volta Pinta; s/d/trinclbreakfast €40/65/75) the eight roomsinthisbrand-newhotelthe eight you azzo del Comune, it’s a wonder these rooms azzo delComune,it’sawonderthese a tinysidestreet lessthan30mfromthePal- The priceisnotamistake. Perfectly located on Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com another great-value hotel intheheartof right popular restaurant (see p340 ). Piazza delComune andthehotel’s extremely quietly tucked aboveup astonestaircase, the hoteliers fordecades.Thestonebuildingis Chiocchetti family,popularrestaurateurs and timate hotel runbythewell-knownAssisian respitecomfortable atthis charming andin- simplyoutfitted roomsoffer guestsa Seven 2b;rwith/withoutbreakfast €65/52) .com; VicolodellaFortezza Hotel La Fortezza MIDRANGE show youwhere toparknearbyforfree. bar. Bringyourcarhere will first, andstaff you’re feeling social,have adrinkatthepiano phones orDVDinthevideolibraryor,if your private patio. Curlupwithabook,head wall orenjoybreakfastup onamedieval on covered propped Romanruin,watch aTV ontopof sleep aglass- youmight choose, incl breakfast €35/55/65/75) VicoloSant’Antonio1;s/d/tr/q [email protected]; 11pm curfew. minimumand modation, ithasatwo-night heavenly choice. Like mostreligious accom- and anancientDoorof Deathmake thisa parking, an800-year-old breakfast salon your-breath-away views.Gardens,ample welcoming andsixhave balconieswithtake- your Assisian oasis.Roomsare austere but fast €35/55/75; Alessi10;s/d/[email protected]; ViaGaleazzo babies, plusbreakfast isavailable dial phoneandTV. Italsooffers cradlesfor decoratedSweetly roomsallcomewithdirect- this isaroundthecornerandjustasquiet. hotel familyasIlDuomo, ownedbythesame Perlicirufino.it; 7;s€44,d€54-60,tr€68) ViaPorta name(see the same p340 ). simpleroomsandtherestaurantthe seven of fluent EnglishandSpanish,takes care of are alsocleanandhospitable.Abele speaks bria.net/hotel-grottaantica; Via Macelli Vecchi ViaMacelli 1;s/d€35/50) bria.net/hotel-grottaantica; Francis feeding thebirdsandyou’ve found Hotel GrottaAntica Hotel o St Anthony’sGuesthouse SanRufino Hotel Hotel Pallotta Hotel Camere SantaChiara Camere p ( ) Look for the iron statue of Lookfortheironstatue St ( % %

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stay at this peacefulhistoricresidence,stay old buthave upgraded withkitchen- been and for good reason. Roomsare medieval which receives stream aconstant of raves, 200; ViaSant’Agneserispinoresidence.com; 11;ste€130- SanCrispino Residenza TOP END a lotof stairs tonegotiate. isthatthere Theonlydisadvantage light. are tion, thehotel isalsovery quietand filledwith and beautifulcarpets.Despite itscentralposi- wood, fine oldfurniture insplendidlycarved white walls, terracottafloors, afew piecesof aresimple elegancethatItalians famousfor: original occupants),have restored been inthe occupied bytheowners (descendantsof the lovely 15th-centurypalazzo,halfof which is fast; .it; ViaSanFrancesco8;s€90-105,d€125-160,allinclbreak- after-dinner grappa. terrace istherethe grapevine-shaded foryour ings complementacosyfireplace inside,while buildings. Antiquefurnish- dozen medieval when itwascobbledtogether fromalmosta familysincetheturnofsame thelastcentury, Via DegliArchi6;s€72-85,d€96-125,allinclbreakfast; andforchildren.low season breakfast There buffet. are alsodiscountsinthe attheenormous for aheartydayof sightseeing drive inanddropoffyourluggage first). Fillup collect youatanyof thecarparks(youcanalso thatwillcomeand and ahotel shuttle service hairdryer,double-panewindows bar, elevator, CNN,France2),mini- (withBBC, satellite TV Subasio asitsbackdrop.Amenitiesinclude deck withaviewof thebasilicawithMonte view isn’tperfect headtotherooftop enough, out mostwindowsforapostcardshot.Ifyour viewof onlylook serious thebasilica,youneed breakfast; escoassisi.it; ViaSanFrancesco48;s€52-100,d€70-130,allincl top floor. sure tocheck Be outtheviewfrom TVs. withtileshowers andwall-mountedcoexist wallsandshutteredcient; medieval windows Assisi. Roomsare asmoderntheyare an- centuries. The25-roomhotelinthe hasbeen like buildingsoverbeen inthese thelastfew here withoutimaginingwhatlife wouldhave It’s physicallyimpossibletospendthenight Hotel IlPalazzo Hotel Umbra Hotel SanFrancesco Hotel

h p a closed Nov,Jan&Feb) ) Assisi’s to happiest guestsseem )

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NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA help of oneof Assisi’s onlysommeliers. and from theextensiveserts, winelistwiththe mushrooms), gnocchi and home-made des- madewithroasted spaghetti (house-speciality bruschetta, localsausage, from Choose setting. an elegantmedieval brian dishes andspecialitiesof in thehouse meals €29; preciated tourists. by,non-Italian opening timeisgeared ap- for,andhighly omelettes (€10).Theearly6.45pmtruffle roundings, includingrabbit stew (€12)and infabulousvaulted 13th-centurysur-served €28; tion forvegetarians isexcellent. pigeon.even Readers have assured usitsselec- made brian classicsare cooked here: rabbit,home- walls andwood-beamed ceilings.AlltheUm- you, intothisgorgeous of setting vaulted brick as yougazeatthe16th-centuryfrescoes above Comune, careful nottobumpintosomeone (Painted Pinta Volta Vault) offPiazzadel Pinta; meals€23; of localwines.Credit cardsare accepted. fromTrentino, as those andagoodselection brian dishes andflame-roasted meats,aswell traditionalUm- off PiazzadelComuneserves meals €22; prices can’tbebeaten anywhere inAssisi. for acheap andfillingmaincourse. Hiswine items, lookpastthepestodishes youneedn’t therealthough are onlyahandfulof menu is fromLiguria,soyoucanrest assured that €16) are partof hotels. restaurants themore (even inexpensive ones) from hotel restaurants, mostof Assisi’s better While wenormallyrecommend away staying RESTAURANTS Eating treatments await. to the‘beautyfarm’,where relaxing massage quite jumpononeof enough, theshuttles nastic-quiet gardenhasn’tcalmedyoudown Chiaraormo- diSanta stroll totheBasilica Brother Sun,Sister Water etc.Iftheshort after StFrancis’Canticle of the Creatures ettes toblissfulapartmentsuites named 340 La Fortezza La Fortezza Antica Grotta Buca diSanFrancesco Evo Medio Pallotta Trattoria

Abele –hotel proprietor,lawyerandchef – h NORTHERN UMBRIA••Assisi NORTHERN strangozzi Thu-Tue)

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TraditionalUmbriandishes are ( h ( % % 075 81 30 68; Via Arco dei Priori 4;meals 075 813068;ViaArcodeiPriori (round stringlike spaghetti), Wed-Mon) 075 81 24 18; Via della Fortezza 2b; 075 812418;ViadellaFortezza Thisfamily-runrestaurant 075 813467;VicoloBuscatti6;meals ( % SampletraditionalUm- ( 075 812649;VicolodellaVolta % Head the through spaghetti allabuca 075 81 22 04; Via Brizi 1; 075 812204;ViaBrizi –

more tosit. weather iscool.Rememberitcostsmuch delicious hotchocolates andcoffee whenthe of fromaselection on ahotday,orchoose the cakes, andagreat of selection drinks.Try fabulous gelati, midnight) Gran Caffè CAFÉS hours, hourly). Foligno for Rome(€9.40 to €16,two2½ to €15.20,1¾ 2¾ hours, 10daily)andat can change atTerontola forFlorence (€9.40 to Perugia (€1.80,25 minutes, hourly).You Foligno–Terontola linewithregular services chi half-hour. Tickets are available inthe onPiazza Matteottithe APMbusstation every and the trainstation C (€0.80)runsbetween Mariawest inSanta degliAngeli, shuttlebus Assisi’strain. Although is4km trainstation Assisi isextremely easytoreach, bybusor Getting There&Away Mariaand Santa degliAngeli onMonday. kets take placeinPiazzaMatteotti onSaturday leather, ceramicsandclothing.Open-airmar- poker –butmeanderoffthebeaten pathfor andnunsplaying Franciscan friarshot glasses thesouvenirsget thetackier totheBasilica, – you openduringsiesta.Thecloser shops stay Assisi isagoodtownforshoppingasmany Shopping Piatto p Pieve SanNicolo18;d€80-115; o THE FRAY SLEEPING (AND COOKING)ABOVE (in ItalianorEnglish);see p310 . forguestsorvisitors of hersmallkitchen classesout the mostmagnificentcooking stroll onby.The multilingualLetizia runs unusual toseewildboarorpheasants olive orchard.Setinverdant hills,it’snot farmandopen fireplace, andaworking terracotta-tile floors,sixdoublerooms,an furbished stonefarmhousewithheated outpost some700yearsago. It’snoware- upgrades sinceitsinceptionasashepherd’s at the station andintown. Assisi atthestation isonthe tè freddoallapesca (icedtea withpeach) ) This B&B/agriturismohasseenmany Thiselegantplacehasthemost ( % ( % Agriturismo allaMadonna del 075 8199050;www.incampagna.com; 075 815 51 44; Corso Mazzini 16; 075 8155144;CorsoMazzini mouth-watering pastriesand

h lonelyplanet.com Mar–mid-Nov; Mar–mid-Nov; h tabac- 8am- Piazza Unità d’Italia’s taxi stand. taxi Piazza Unitàd’Italia’s all start atPiazzaMatteottiall start andafew stop 11 daily)fromPiazzaMatteotti. Thebuses and Gubbio(€5.20,onehour10minutes, runs toPerugia (€3,50minutes, ninedaily) lonelyplanet.com Farmacia Bartoli Doctor MEDICAL SERVICES www.comune.spello.pg.it Bella Umbria RESOURCESINTERNET Police station EMERGENCY Information smells of flowers. in springwhenthewholebloomin’town erpots make itwellworthavisit,especially arched stone walkwaysandhangingflow- Assisi orPerugia, buttheproliferation of often byastouristsheadtonearby passed than thelast.AndthenyouvisitSpello. It’s for thenextUmbriantowntobeanyprettier like it’sjustnotpossibleSometimes itseems pop 8580 SPELLO should beabletofindfree parking. the priceof ashort butfairlysteepwalk,you orheadforViadellaRoccawhere,buses), for are connected tothecentre byorange shuttle banned. Sixcarparksdotthecitywalls(they the citycentre anddaytimeparkingisallbut issubjecttorestrictionstion. Normaltraffic in PiazzaMatteottibetween andthetrainsta- A shuttle bus(€0.80)operates half-hour every Getting Around the signs. the SS75,exitatOspedalicchio andfollow ( Nuovaat Porta onthewaytoPerugia. history andevents. websitewithinformation onaccommodation, tourist hours, three daily). Tiburtinaand Rome’sStazione (€16.50,3¼ Florence (€11,2½hours, onedailyat7am) SanPietrofor intercity atPorta busstation h Repubblica) % APM Perugia Perugia APM For a taxi, dial For ataxi, To reach Assisi fromPerugia byroad, take closed Satmorning) 800 099661;www.sulga.it) ( % 0742 302016)Canlocate alocaldoctor. (www.bellaumbria.net/spello) A private Aprivate (www.bellaumbria.net/spello) ( % ( ( % NORTHERN UMBRIA••Spello NORTHERN % 0742 651115;Piazza della % 800 512141;www.apmperugia.it) 0742 3014 88; ViaCavour63; 075 813100,orheadto Thecitywebsite buses leavebuses fromthe Sulga

Purchase acitymaphere for€0.50. area, includingan8kmwalkacrossthehillstoAssisi. accommodation andhasmapsofwalksinthesurrounding 12.30pm &3.30-5.30pm)Itcanprovideyouwithalistof [email protected], Piazza 3; Matteotti h in the1320s inGothicstyle withfrescoes by , built diVallegloria imposing church, SantaMaria works. Atthefarnorth of townisyetanother summer, to6pmwinter) Chiesa diSanLorenzo piazzaasthePalazzosame Comunale,isthe Piazza dellaRepubblica chitectural past. shows offSpello’sartistic,religious andar- 10.30am-12.30pm&3-5pmTue-Sun Oct-Mar) Sun Apr-Sep, adult/concession €4/3; ( made of tilesfromDeruta.The exquisite floor(datingfrom1566) Cappella’s damageslight thepaint.Alsoof note isthe This isdonenotjusttomake money;constant topayilluminatethat youneed thefresco. corner asyouenter, behind glass,butbeaware Thefrescopella Baglioni. isintheright-hand Maggiore down, the12th-century Pinturicchio, andafew doorsby Bernardino can admire Madonna with Child andSaints Chiesa diSant’Andrea features twoenormouschurches: theaustere . Furtherintotown,PiazzaMatteottisolare town, withapartiallyRomangate, Piazza Kennedy, themain entrance tothe Romanesque façade. monastery, anactive witha Cappuccin erino countryside. Nearbyisthe modern-day Spello)–andthesurrounding in Roman‘Hispellum’(thenamefor of thousands years forspectacles agoused tothepublic)–amphitheatre(closed can get Romano thebestviewof theAnfiteatro head uptotheArcoRomano.Fromhere you Perhaps inallof thebestsight Spelloisto Sights Pro Loco TOURIST INFORMATION Post office POST Nov-Mar) Pinturicchio’s beautifulfrescoes, intheCap- % As youenter Spello,you’llcomeacross Continuing through totown, you’llreachContinuing through 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pmSat) 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 0742 301497;Palazzo deiCannonica,Piazza Matteotti; . You’llalsofindthetown’sreal treat, (tourist office; (tourist ( ( h % 8.30am-12pm & 2-7pm Mar-Oct, until6pm 8.30am-12pm &2-7pmMar-Oct, 0742 30081;Piazza dellaRepubblica;

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lonelyplanet.com Paolucci (50m) To DelPrato 0.2 miles alfom- 400 m 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 26 25 C4 C4 C3 C3 C4 C3 C2 C1 C2 C2 s €35-45,d€50-62; celebrations. just travelinfromAssisiorPerugia andvisitfortheday’s wellinadvance,oralternatively, made hotelreservations sure youhavealready crowded.Make become extremely procession commencesat11am,butbeware –itcan festive atmosphere. Onthedayoffestival, theCorpus Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com so quite small)on the terrace. breakfast style, whom enjoy seasonal (Italian a larger swatheof thetravelling public,allof ofclasses rooms openthestunninggroundsto clists andtourparticipants fordecades.Three tr €110-185,ste€210-300; www.labastiglia.com; ViadeiMolini7;s€70-105,d€80-155, dated guestrooms. fireplace, terraces withhill-topviewsandup- outfittedpleasantly withasittingroom and enviably located inthemiddleof Spello and all inclbreakfast) delteatro.it; ViaGiulia24;s€60-85,d€90-110,ste€200-220, a panoramicview. race that’sperfect forasummerlunch amid restaurant Monday)withalarge (closed ter- for aroomwithview.There’s alsoagreat casual’, somewithasmallsittingarea. Ask modern, andplainlyfurnished in‘business spread over three floors thatare large and tr €95-115) www.ilcacciatorehotel.com; ViaGiulia42;s€50-60,d€75-90, local wineanddelicacies. nearby rustic antiques.Vanya, theowner,alsorunsa andare furnishedwith bathroom andTV, mini-apartments featureSeven akitchenette, Jacopo asitischarming. isascomfortable rebuilt over centuriesandSan thelasteight ing toCompostella inGalicia. Much hasbeen of SanJacopo, forpilgrimshead- awaystation itsfirstsaw incarnationin1296asthehospice 1; mini-aptsfor2/3people€62/93) 99; www.residencesanjacopo.it inItalian;ViaBorgodiGiulia train station. gregarious owners willpickyouupatthe a few roomshave aheadandthe views.Call andphone, bathroom,TV acceptable you’llhavein town.However, aperfectly arecity walls,these theleastexpensive rooms Del PratoPaolucci Sleeping been welcoming well-heeled pilgrims,bicy- welcomingwell-heeled been Hotel Ristorante LaBastiglia Ristorante Hotel delTeatroAlbergo IlCacciatore Albergo Trattoria SanJacopo Residence enoteca about , andknowseverything Thisplacehas21roomsthatare This18th-centurybuildingis p ( % ) Located justoutsidethe pas ( % 0742 301018;ViaBrodolini4; ( % 0742 301140;www.hotel This vacation house Thisvacationhouse 0742 301260,33322328

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0742 651141; often sobuyyourtickets unstaffed, at either Perugiabetween andFoligno. is Thestation sisi (€1.30,10minutes). Spello isontheSS75 hourly toPerugia (€2.30, 30minutes) andAs- Perugia andFoligno,sotrainsrunatleast Spello isdirectly onthetrainlinebetween Getting There&Away manyedibles. vault andsells ina medieval bar aroundthecorner,isset 8a) diProperzio 16 88;ViaTorri abroad. €144, youcanhave adozenbottlesshipped prosciuttoandbruschetta.on cheese, For Umbrianwineswhilesnacking half-dozen so thanhere, where for€30,youcantrya And there’s nobetter placeinUmbriatodo sloshed) istostopoffatan at oncewithoutbreaking thebank(orgetting 9am-8pmNov-Mar) Oct, Palazzo deiCanonici, Piazza 8/10; Matteotti Properzio Enoteca Drinking But theydo,andartfullyso. would gotogether, pastry? orpigeon andpuff Who wouldhave bloodandgnocchi thought rare exampleof Umbriannouvelle cuisine. here. anda Thefoodisbeyondoutstanding noisseurs comefromallover theworldtodine dei Molini17;meals€55; ing withlocalmountain-grownherbs. winter gamemeats,wildasparagusandcook- legumes, intruffles, building. Itspecialises ina700-year-oldBocci, theMolinoisset €29; while awayhours admiringtheview. thing isthebackveranda, where youcould mealsandgelati,has decentlight butthebest tomidnightsummer) 10pm Fri-Wed, gelato. two more eurosforSpello’sbesthome-made on thecheap Tack canloadupontapas. on quick mealstop.Forjustafew euros,diners andmainbusstopisaone-stop train station 36; Il GiardinodiSpello Eating chances visitors have of wines several tasting usually opentothepublic,sooneof theonly

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d €110-240,ste€190-320; 02; www.villazuccari.com; SanLuca diMontefalco;s€95-170, inhabited this house inthe16thcentury)inhabited thishouse inthearea,to stay try English andFrench.Italian, vineyard. Ask forthewell-written guidesin monastic gallery), plustoolsfromamedieval form. There’s alsoadecent perspectivethe 1400stouse topainthuman Gozzoli, whowasthefirst Umbrianpainter of ‘narrated’ fresco cyclebythepainter Benozzo StFrancisChurch,the deconsecrated witha Mon Nov-Feb) 3-7pmJun&Jul,3-7.30pmAug, closed &Oct, Sep Mar-May, h Umbra6;adult/concession€5/2; 37 9598;ViaRinghiera falco isthe a goodreputation). than fourenoteche (Enoteca L’Alchimistahas main square, PiazzadelComune,innoless red, SagrantinodiMontefalco. Imbibeinthe the headquarters forthedistinctlyUmbrian ode. As Montefalco ifthatwasn’tenough, is so lyricallybeautiful,itpracticallybegsforan fectly perched village sitsatopahillwithview dell’Umbria ground organically. Knownastheringhiera recent Zuccarifamilylineage (thefirst ones The most important buildinginMonte-The mostimportant If youare lookingforsomewhere special 10.30am-1pm year-round&2.30-5pmNov-Feb, 2-6pm . The museum is housed nextto ishoused . Themuseum forinformation.The rest ofthe (the balconyof Umbria),theper- Museo CivicoSanFrancesco Museo Paolo Bea h

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( ). % Themost 0742 3994 (picture ( % Ar- 0742 or batheinanin-suite Jacuzzi tubundera sip champagne onone’sownprivate balcony rooms andsuites canknowwhatitfeels like to felt large. atad Now,guestsin34uniqueguest turned thisancestralhomeintoahotel, asit Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com [email protected]; Piazza 1; [email protected]; Silvestri add tothecharm. churches, the ViaFlaminia. Forvisitors, Romanesque aRomanmunicipiumon can andeventually thenbecame Etrus- an Umbriansettlement, began firstsquare, as PiazzaSilvestri. Bevagna listed iswithinabouta10-minute walkof the main drag,Corso Matteotti, andeverything little happierhere. Ancientcitywallsringthe a lage andthetownsfolk doseem inItaly, town wasoncenamedthemostbeautifulvil- bria, wouldn’tbeabadchoice. The Bevagna If avisitorhadonlyonedaytospendinUm- pop 5023 Bevagna Foligno.through 40 minutes, five daily),somedirect andothers agna andMontefalco (€2.20to€3.40,20 Bev- hour, threegobetween daily).Buses minutes, daily)andPerugia eight (€4.40, one travel fromMontefalco toFoligno(€3.20,30 sauce. lent excel- cosy stone-and-brick cave, andserves inexpensivefantastic, restaurant located ina 20;d€75,q€150,allinclbreakfast) .it; ViaMameli ( from herowncookbook. are asallrecipes reason tostay, enough are a hotelcookingcourses in1992.Alessandra’s the familybefore theyturnedtheestateinto by 15 roomsisdecorated withantiques,used run the‘shabbychic’ of noblevilla. Each the She, achef; he,asommelier–together, they Hippie nobilityreigns over thiscountryhouse. another uniqueplaceforanovernight stop ste €160-200,allinclbreakfast; 20;s€88-150,d€140-260, pambuffetti.com; VialedellaVittoria Pambuffetti trance, Villa Montefalco. low signsforMadonna dellaStella, towards theSS3bisatTrevi/MontefalcoExit andfol- fromgueststheworldover.that gainspraise frescoed ceiling.Butit’sthewelcomingservice % The SSIT buses The basic Thirty metres fromMontefalco’s mainen- 0742 37 91 66; www.ringhieraumbra.com; verziere@tiscali 0742 379166;www.ringhieraumbra.com; strangozzi andSagrantino withtruffles Pro Loco tourist office Pro Locotourist enoteche andadearthof tourists ( % Hotel Ristorante Ringhiera Umbra Ringhiera Ristorante Hotel 0742 670747;www.spoletina.com)

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cludes entranceintothe archaeology andceramics. multifaceted campinggroundhasarchery, a shopping, thealwayscheerful Assù runs this mini-apt €80-130; Piazza 2; 19 20,3357188903;www.enotecaonofri.it; Onofri find it4kmsoutheast of Bevagna. barnyardanimals. You’ll goods, andraises produces itsownolive oil, jamandtinned new international friends.The with dance, bowlorgatheratspecialevents will love where summer evenings, theycan firewood, fullyequippedkitchen andTV. Kids apartments thatcomewith but comfortable swimming poolandapizzeria,ninerustic €6.50/2.50/3.25/6, 2-/6-personapt€57/140; Piandi Boccio Agriturismo/Camping SLEEPING &EATING see p346 ). restaurants (includingCoccoroneinBevagna; find slug-related merriment. Accordingly,you’ll etc), aswellexhibits,dancingandgeneral roastedwith snailsauce, snails,antipasti bruschetta wayimaginable(snailpasta, every tival of theSnail),withsnaildishes cooked in celebrates its Bevagna lusc orthree, di thelittletownof Cantalupo last thirdof Augustandfancyeatingamol- ironworks –dressed inperiodattire. of theday–glass-blowing, candle-making, giveArtisans demonstrationsonthecrafts backintimeafew hundredtown goes years. with the wall, plusamonasticwinery. Roman theatre, andaRomanmedieval baths. There are alsotheremains of anold tilefloorfromancientRoman well-preserved h of Antiquities winter) 3-7pm summer,10.30am-1pm&3-5.30pmor6pmTue-Sun 70;adult/concession€5/2; Matteotti tre isfree. next square. Parking justoutsidethecitycen- Piazza Matteotti; The wine-tasting. 2.30-7pm) 01 64;www.piandiboccio.com; perperson/car/child/tent The ticket priceforthe Enoteca andLocanda PiazzaOnofri Enoteca If youhappenuponthearea duringthe medieval goes At theendof June,Bevagna The 10.30am-1pm &3-4.30pmTue-Sun) lumache (snails)onthemenuatmany features exhibitonlocal arudimentary Pinacoteca Comunale Pinacoteca can helpwithaccommodationand Festival oftheGaite

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(2km) 353 B2 NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA days inadvance. March, except by specialrequests madethree fromNovember –andisclosed tosee to itself an oldtobacco-drying warehouse –asite in ary exhibitof mostlylarger in piecesishoused Johns credit himasaninspiration.Asecond- such ChristoandJasper asRauschenberg, Dada andPopArtmovements, andartists world. Hisearlyworkinfluenced theNew the popular throughout immensely has been rary workwithpaintandphysical materials a prisonerof warinTexas. Hiscontempo- began hisartcareer in1946after astintas Alberto Burri’smaincollection.Theartist 2.30-6pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-12.30pm&3-6pmSun) Pierucci; adult/child/concession€5/2/3; delTabacco,Via Albizzini1,secondaryexhibitatExSeccatoi Via andAlexandertheGreat. Caesar depicting historicalsubjects,such asHannibal, include wallfrescoes fromCristoforo Gherardi, andwingedors, cherubs. seahorses Thehalls of erudites andemper- Apolloandthemuses, fresco withdepictions cyclegracesthestaircase, the more prominentworks.Acoolastrological paintings, givingexplanationsandcontext to in English, which the willguideyouthrough the painted inCittà;twoof in hisworksstillstand of Saint Sebastian also here in1498.Raphael Perugia. LucaSignorelli painted his artisticcentre important inUmbria,behind most wasthesecond when CittàdiCastello with paintingsfromthemasters wholived here 15th-century h 855 4202;ViadellaCannoniera;adult/child/concession€5/1.50/3; The collectionatthe Sights office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION Post office POST diRisparmio Cassa MONEY Hospital MEDICAL SERVICES 354 1.30pm &3.30-6.30pmMon-Sat,9.30am-12.30pmSun) -castello.pg.it; LoggeBufalini,Piazza Matteotti; ATM office. ofthetourist isthemostconvenient,toleft 5pm) Collezione Burri 10am-1pm &2.30-6.30pm,Mon-Sat) pinacoteca. Ask fortheinformationbooklet NORTHERN UMBRIA••CittàdiCastello NORTHERN ( % ( % 075 85091;ViaAngelini) ( , is filled , isfilled allaCannoniera Palazzo Vitelli % 075 8553529;ViaGramsci; 075 8554922;[email protected] (Piazza 3a)Thisbank’s Matteotti ( % Pinacoteca Comunale Pinacoteca 075 8554649;Palazzo Albizzini, , in the imposing , intheimposing

h 9am-12.30pm & Martyrdom Martyrdom h h houses houses 8.15am- ( % 9am- 075 075 son €6.50-8,pertent€6-6.50,car€2.50-3; to sample. honey, mushroomsandmanyotherlocaldelicaciesavaiable that isimaginabletothisepicurean tradeshow,aswell Farmers typeoftruffleproduct every andgrowersbring festival dedicatedtothearea’s ubiquitouswhitetruffle. the firstweekinNovember,townplayshosttothis frescoes bypainters intheUmbriaschool. friars andfeatures animpressive displayof San Domenicowasbuiltin1271byDomenican feature frescoes inthegrotesque style. 1500s, builtbytheVitelli family.Theceilings isastatelyhome,datingfromthe a SanEgidio also hassomefinefrescoes. The Maggiore di SantaMaria leon’s generals, whomoved ittoMilan. The paintingwasaforcedgifttooneof Napo- he painted inCittàwhenhewasquite young. TheMarriageof Raphael’s of the Virgin Francesco dates backto1291;there’s acopyhere The a façadebyNicolaBarbioni. Piazza Matteotti isthe pressive buildings.Facing themainsquare (Piazza Gabriotti) Civica Torre Also take alookatthestatuesque Valle delTevere forthepastfew centuries. del Comune,thegovernmental of theAlte seat Umbria. buildingisthe Inthesame pressive collectionof sacred artefacts inallof & 2.30-6.30pmTue-Sun winter) h 3\a;adult/child/concession€5/2/3; 855 4705;Piazza Gabriotti treasures. esque pool, children’s playground andbocce. The campingground hasaswimming setting. hill further afieldbutworth itforthefantastic car/tent €6/4.50/2.50/6; Tiberina;.net; VocSPietro adult/child/ 10,Monte SantaMaria and dogsare allowed. Valle delTevere. It iswheelchairaccessible is surroundedbytheverdant hillsof theAlta its ownrestaurant andswimmingpool, ps La Montesca Sleeping eProdottidelBosco Tartufo Mostra Mercato Festivals &Events closed forrenovation.closed times,which is temporarilyback tomedieval Luna delMonte Not much remains of theoriginalRoman- Città di Castello alsohasmanyotherim- Città diCastello 9.30am-1pm &2.30-7pmTue-Sun summer,10am-1pm , but the building houses some cathedral, butthebuildinghouses ) Thisfullystocked campinggroundhas

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in Italian;Piazza RSanzio13;s€95,d€156,allincl breakfast; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com tury and is nowafour-star hotel. Rooms still esco, then becameapalace inthe17thcen- monastery diSanFranc- forthenearbyChiesa tophotels.di Castello’s Thebuilding wasa pai minimuminAugust. week minimumbooking, withaone- a two-night baths andthermalpool gymnastics. There’s filled withshiatsumassage, therapeuticmud curativements orday-week-long retreats ‘well-being centre’ offers treat- single-session antiques andlowoak-beamed ceilings.The withelegant as ancientstonewallscoexist mattresses. Thehermitage feels aworldway, minibars andfirm internet access, SkyTV, Castello. Thehotel has90modernroomswith hotel, all within afew kilometres of Cittàdi hermitage-cum- pizzeria andaseven-room expansive parkgrounds,tworestaurants, a This sparesort hasawell-pricedhotel onits hermitage sinclbreakfast €150-170,d€175-200; medifontecchio.it; Loc. Fontecchio4;hotels€52-60,d€74-90, good restaurant. bar, hairdryer,king-sizedbedandarather internet access(€0.50per30minutes), mini- offer an arrayofdoes comforts–satellite TV, ters tobothbusinessandleisure travellers. It ernist hotel isn’tthemostcharming, asitca- Located alongtheancientcitywalls,thismod- times hostsraucousschool groups. and IDDtelephone. Phone ahead,asitsome- have bathroomswithshowers, satellite TV andiswelllocated.spend thenight Allrooms Hotel Umbriaisafairlycharming placeto least expensive hotel withinthecitywalls, .net inItalian;ViaSAntonio6;s/dinclbreakfast €35/55) .it; ViaBorgoFarinario 24;s/dinclbreakfast €48/80; Terme diFontecchio Umbria Hotel Hotel TifernoHotel LeMura Hotel line betweenPerugia andCittàdiCastello. Seealso p312 . brick oven. Teresa on theSansepolcro andAldowill pickyouupatthetrainstationinUmbertide, pasta, wineorcheese,luckoutbyarrivingintimeforapizzafromtheoutdoorwood-fired Farms (WWOOF–seewww.wwoof.org) programmeorchilloutasaguest.Learn organic tomake onOrganic oftheWorld-wideOpportunities volunteer inexchangeforroomandboardaspart ofwheat,aloe,herbsandorganicrun farmspecialisingintheproduction salves. Youcaneither doves’, findpeacehere. andyouwillmostcertainly The irongates leadyoutothissmallfamily- o WHERE MOTHER EARTHWOULDSTAY .it in Italian; Loc. Molino Vitelli 180, Umbertide; perpersoninclbreakfast €40; .it inItalian;Loc. MolinoVitelli180,Umbertide; ) Openedin1985,this isoneof Città Agriturismo/B&B Le Tortorelle

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Sells Sells 355 NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA per ilTrekking orLeMappe diAironeper il fold-out maps, such as Perugia. andbybusfrom del Lago, and Castiglione arrive easilybytraininto Magione, Torricella cany toPerugia. Public-transportuserscan end of thelake, headingfromthe A1 inTus- the north (in Tuscany)andSS75biscrosses heads fromChiusitoArezzo onthewestside Two major skirtthelake, highways theSS71 Orientation the connoisseur. is afurtherdrive butchock-full of artworkfor to spendadayortwo,whileCittàdellaPieve Panicale are placesinwhich themostpleasant egaro andTuoro. and delLago Castiglione Magione, Paciano, Panicale, Passignano, Pi- CittàdellaPieve, delLago, ities): Castiglione made upof different eight island. hostel, located onitsownpracticallyprivate never-ending walkingtrailsandUmbria’sbest visitors enjoythewater sports,localcuisine, lake. respects thedelicate ecologyof theprecious in gently toallowroomforallandeveryone foldstravellers delLago historic Castiglione cover thehillslike theomnipresent sunflower, such Adriaticholidayvillages. mono-architecture high-rise the Stalinist of ing SanFeliciano –hasthankfullyeschewed the area –outsidePassignano andastrip leav- ing thesummermonths, butthemajority of Granted, you’llfindplentyof such folksdur- sunseekers, àlathecoastof Marche. Le haven forbusloadsof NorthernEuropean geous Trasimenotobecomeaholiday Lake It wouldhave easyfordrop-deadgor- been TRASIMENO) LAGO DITRASIMENO(LAKE 1¾ hours, 10daily). and 10minutes, 16daily)andontoTodi(€4, withPerugiaCittà diCastello (€3.05,onehour Ferrovia Umbrarailwayconnects Centrale isjusteastofCittà diCastello theE45. The Getting There&Away onthe2ndfloor.a smallmuseum techniques aswhen itopenedin1799.Ithas printing paper andartworkusingthesame 356 Tourist offices can provide youwith The region Trasimenois knownasLake Outside of overcrowded August,relaxed NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN Le Mappe diAirone comuni (municipal- Agriturismi

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( % 10am-12.30pm & lonelyplanet.com h 0578 2993 ( % 8.30am-1pm 075 952 Città lonelyplanet.com (but not overwhelmingly so)touristdestina- and isnowapopular an Etruscan settlement historydates backto delLago’s Castiglione Thursday inthemainsquare at9pm. Sonoro freetion totheMosaico concertevery inaddi- concerts fromJulyuntilSeptember, the MusicaInsiemePanicale of runsaseries concerts allyearlong.Duringthe summer, tury theatre, beautifullydesigned,which has lace museum. bones of Entry here saints. is payableatthe creepy note are therelic boxes filledwiththe from thepastfive centuries.Ofparticularly church regalia vestments, andaltar statues name,offersthe same viewof anup-close €2; work byhand. age,and isnearlytheright stillcreates lace- the wife of Boldrino daPanicale (see above ) If she’shome,Fede Boldrino,whojokes sheis to SanMichael SqNo2andringthedoorbell. frescoed church. Ifyouwanttobuylace,head tulle fromthearea, inadeconsecrated housed appt) h Tulle have attributed toRaphael. in TronoconAngeliMusicanti, which they ered anotherfresco inthechurch, Madonna restored.been In2005,arthistoriansdiscov- torians cantell whatisoriginalandhas result fromfarawaybutarthis- isseamless brushstrokes tofillindamaged artwork.The

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(Lace Museum; (Lace Museum; 9am-12.30pm &3-5.30pm) Museo dellaChiesaSbarra Museo Teatro Caporali Cesare Erasmo di Narni (1370–1443, known as Gattamelata), who served Florence,condottieri: ErasmodiNarni(1370–1443,knownasGattamelata),whoserved NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN % 075 837807;ChiesaSant’Agostino; , inthechurch of isan18th-cen-

(admission comuni

(city-states) were inabitofbind:theyhadactive important series of series 16th-centuryfrescoesimportant by (see (see hostel p360 ). only inhabited building istheFattoria IlPoggio are alsoremains of a14th-century castle. The andtheChurchofStJulian San Secondo the technologies.sustainable Make sure youvisit of biodiversityteaching preservation and labsthat arethe environmental to devoted park. Many school groups comehere touse entire islandisascientificandeducational is itscharm. The mainattractionisthatthe outitstranquillity, whoseek which, to those There’s notmuch todoinIsolaPolvese, POLVESE ISOLA striking pose. rearing uponarockypromontory,itcuts architecture. military fromthelake,eval Seen in 1247andanexcellentexampleof medi- of fortress theLion),apentagon-shaped built with the13th-century family fromPerugia. onceownedbythefeudalhouses Baglioni whoincorporated partsofBarozzi, ancient It wasbuiltinthe16thcenturybyJacopo Giovanni AntonioPandolfi andSalvioSavini. 9.30am-4.30pmSat&SunNov-Mar) Mar-Oct, Leone adult/concession€3/2; ( various territories forabout 1000years. thepapacy,emperorand traded between Byzantine Perugia. over Itwasfought and defensivean important promontoryfor the tion. Inthe7thcentury,townbecame at work.Alsoof interest of are theMonastery % An ancientducalpalace, A covered passageway connectsthepalace Garden ofAquaticPlants Garden 075 9658210;Piazza Gramsci;admissioninclRoccadel during battle. to Umbriagave birth Rocca delLeone(Fortress

h , to see biodiversity, tosee 10am-1pm &4-7.30pm Palazzo dellaCorgna houses an houses . There 357

NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA lapesca.it inItalian;ViaLungolago dellaPace edelLavoro20; day. ing techniques fromancient timestomodern summer, 9-11pmJul&Aug) adult/child/concession €3/1/2; the sunny holiday,SanFeliciano’s maindrawis hotels catering tonorthernEuropeansona primarily astripofto jointhem).Although to trawlforfish inthemorning(see opposite fishermen leaveThis workingtownstillsees FELICIANO SAN 2.30-6pm), neartheport admission€3; Via Gugliemi,IsolaMaggiore; delMerlotto Museo examplesinthe production andyoucansee island isfamedforitslaceandembroidery The by master Caporali. painter Bartolomeo aCrucifixion Arcangelo contains San Michele vourite with StFrancis.Thehill-top giore, nearPassignano, wasreputedly afa- The lake’s maininhabited island,IsolaMag- MAGGIORE ISOLA wander around. public, sofeel free tostep insideandhave a Savini. Itisnowalibrarythatopentothe include onesbyIlPomarancioandSalvio ( located Palazzo inthestatuesque dellaCorgna toacityin1600). Thefrescoeswas elevated (it dellaPieve town, knownthenasCastel commissioned artiststopaintworksforthe uncle, PopeJuliusIII,andsubsequently appointed asgovernor of thetownbyhis & 3.30-6pmNov-Mar) €2; deiBianchi at theOratoryofSantaMaria home-town isAdoration of the Magi Perhaps Perugino’s mostfamousworkinhis ancient baptismalchurch (knownasa Perugino fromthe worksandwasdeveloped ums listed belowfor€4. ticket atthetouristofficeoroneof themuse- are allover circuit’ thetown.Buya‘museum nucci wasbornhere in1445andhispaintings painterthe famousRenaissance PietroVan- became knownas‘IlPerugino’ (thePerugian), he it’s about20kmtothesouth.Although cally considered partof Trasimeno,but Lake isculturallyandgeographi-Città dellaPieve DELLAPIEVE CITTÀ 358 %

The headof thedellaCorgna familywas The h Fishing Museum 0578 298185;Piazza AntonioGramsci1;admission€2) NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN 9.30am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mar-Oct, 10am-12.30pm 9.30am-12.30pm &4-7.30pmMar-Oct, Cattedrale di San Gervasio eProtasio diSanGervasio Cattedrale . . (Lace Museum; (Lace Museum; ( % , which fish- showcases 075 8479261;www.museodel h 10.30am-1pm &3.30-7pm % h 075 8254233; 10am-1pm & , onview (admission Chiesa di houses houses pieve).

2300 years ago. thattookplacestops, describingtheevents the battlefield,signposted by12numbered connect-the-dots walkingordrivingtourof out aroundtown.There isanarchaeological out thepermanentexhibitionbefore heading 9am-12pmSat12Jun-12Sep) & 4-7pmMon-Fri, office tourist boxed text, opposite ). Stopoffatthe grounds of the of theBattle Trasimeno(see rounding hills,istotake adrive the through ful of decenthidden residentialrather sleepy area withahand- The onlyreason tovisit aTuoro, otherwise TUORO of thehill. carry aheavy boattothecastleontop whengroupsof neighbourhood men Race), last Sundayof Julyisthe foranyonestoppinghereA must-see onthe andadecorated holywaterCaporali trough. featuressanctuary aMadonna byBartolomeo & 5-7pmSun) 71 24; tury as gooditgets. Checkoutthe16th-cen- to visitors, buttheviewfrominfrontof itis castleonthetopof medieval thehillisclosed hotels, gelato jointsandsouvenir shops. The Trasimeno towns,withmanyrestaurants, Passignano isthemostholiday-ishof the PASSIGNANO which isopeninsummer only. of theKnights ofMalta day, stillownit.You candrive uptotheCastle took theabbeyfrom theTemplars and, tothis inJerusalem.crusades of TheKnights Malta inthe crusaders goingbackand forthtofight Magione’s for fortifiedabbey asahospital 1160and1170, the Templarsbetween used a fascinatingcastle. Originallyconstructed thetrainstopshereever, have anditdoes and, assuch, notterribly interesting. How- table. It’sthecommercialcentre of thelake aheapof that youneed groceriesoramosaic You mayenduphere ifyousuddenlyrealise MAGIONE edge. near Loc.Navacciatothelake’s Lido,close a modern-dayStonehenge. You willfindit made bycelebrated artistsandlookinglike a groupof 27contemporarysculptures sand Also visitFielddelSole), oftheSun(Campo Chiesa della Madonna dell’Uliveto Chiesa dellaMadonna h 5-7pm Wed & Thu, 4-8pm Fri &Sat,10am-noon 5-7pm Wed&Thu,4-8pmFri ontheroadtoTuoro. Inside,the (City Library ( % % agriturismi 075 843859; admissionfree) 075 825220; Palio delleBarche

lonelyplanet.com inthesur- h

tocheck ( % 9am-12pm (Boat 075 82 Tuoro , perch, tench andcarp, outonthelake. Two weekend inJune. weekend fire-eating andarchery.Heldinmid-August. fire-eating includingacrobatics, revelry, sance pastwithsomeserious signano’s annualboatraceofadifferent sort; lonelyplanet.com 19, SanFeliciano; fishingperperson €55) ( the touristoffice. menus andpriceguides,alsoavailable from Trasimeno a Tavola, which includessample out, too,fortheguidetolocalrestaurants, delLago.the touristofficeinCastiglione Look ahead. Youcanalsopickupthisbrochure at tocall try wine,butyoualmostalwaysneed open cellars, which meansyoucanstopbyand brochure withsuggested itineraries.Itlists www.montiTrasimeno.umbria.it inItalian) CollidelTrasimeno Strada delVino (Trasimeno Hilldistrict),theAssociazione Route; see p75 ) of theCollidelTrasimeno ested infollowing theStradadelVino(Wine tion of Origin)olive oils.Ifyouare inter- d’Origine Protetta,orProtected Denomina- wines (see p74 ) andDOP(Denominazione (Denominazione diOrigineControllata) DOC theirhigh-quality produce, mostnotably The localsare very proudof theirexcellent ing). Many alsogofortheculinarydelights. far enjoymentof niente(thesweet doingnoth- camping,waterwine-tasting, sportsand Popular activitiesatthelake includehiking, Activities Palio deiTerzieri Palio delleBarche festival &Culture Art theyear: throughout TrasimenohostscountlesseventsLake As withtherest of festival-happy Umbria, Festivals &Events % Do asthelocalsdo, withadayof straight days,earningthenewnameSanguineto(thebloody). 25,000-strong army.Alocalstream ranwiththebloodofFlaminiusandhissoldiersforthree overso expedientlythattheRomanshardlyhadtimetosuitup,killing ofFlaminius’ three-fifths away tobeathreat. Underthecover typicalmistymorning,Hannibalambushed ofthelake’s leadingFlaminius’forcestobelieveof torchesfarfromthelake, theCarthaginians were toofar as onecanwith50,000troops,9000horsesand37elephants. Hannibal’smeneven litaseries Hannibal madeitlookasthoughhewasjustpassingbyonhiswaytoRome,nonchalantly set uparoundthearea thatisnowTuoro. strategist, Quite thewartime Carthaginian general of thedeadliestbattlesinallRomanhistory.troopsledbyConsulCaius Flaminius were During thesecondPunic Trasimenowasthesite Lake ofone WarbetweenRomeandCarthage, HANNIBAL VROMANS 075 8476005;www.albaTrasimeno.it inItalian;ViaAlicata This showcasesthetown’sRenais- NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN Held onthelastSundayinJuly.Pas- In CittàdellaPieve overthefirst , for eel, trout, , foreel,

( % producesa

see opposite . 075 582941; fishing dolce

available from the Umbria InfotouristMap. Themap is fice, check www.umbria2000.it orconsult pick upabrochure fromthelocaltourist of- . than 151agriturismi type of lodgingimaginable, includingnoless TrasimenoareaThe Lake isfilledwithevery Sleeping teca (disco)atnight. beach andrestaurant, and turnsintoa Punta Navaccia) Tuoro atBelneazione Merangola at delLago can befoundinCastiglione feeling particularlymedieval. which also offers archery coursesifyou’re diSopra,Passignano).it; ViaSanDonato65,Loc. Campori Belveduto Oasi ing centres includetheManeggio of walkingandhorse-ridingtracks.Horse-rid- information. Ask ateach town’stouristofficeformore Tuoro (Friday)andPassignano (Saturday). (Wednesday),MagioneLago (Thursday), delat thefollowinglocations:Castiglione goods. Theytake placefrom8.30amto1pm have allsortsof fresh localproduceandbasic rience, don’tmiss the to 10people€90)are alsoavailable. least onedayinadvance. Nature trips(forup your fish usingtraditionalrecipes. Bookat can guideyoutorestaurants thatwillcookup reeling inyourcatches atdawn,thefisherman angling orearlymorningfishing trip.After people atatimecanjoinlocalsforfour-hour 65 37 95; Loc. Orto, CastiglionedelLago) 65 3795;Loc. Orto, Canoe, windsurfing and sailboat rentals windsurfingandsailboat Canoe, Ask atoneof thetouristofficesforabooklet For afulllistof inthis area, placestostay For afunculturalandgastronomicexpe- ( ( % % . La Merangola. La alsohasasmall 075 829076;www.poggiodelbelveduto 075 9652445;Loc. LidoArezzo) InfoUmbria InfoUmbria , which weekly markets Mp p320 ; (Map ( % 328 4549766;Loc. and % Poggio del Poggio 075 5757; ( % orin disco- 359 0337 La

, NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA also helpyoumake reservations. could be in athree-star hotel, andallrooms orafew Theprivatenights, weeks. rooms dm€18,s€25-30,d€50-60,allinclbreakfast; Torricella; and abitof English. open-hearth fireplace. Paolo speaksFrench time).Duringwinter,same shecooks inher lessons (usuallyatthe cooking andItalian her daughter’sbedroom).Paola alsooffers (be sure atthefrescoes in toaskforapeek out tworoomsinher17th-centuryapartment inPaola’sexperience, stay home. She rents Pieve; perperson€30-50) the SS75onSS71. the campinggroundislocated justsouthof will pickyouupattheTerontola trainstation; lent beachfront location.Forasmallfee, staff exercising inthefitness room,andtheexcel- enjoy renting akayak,bicycleorpaddleboat, forfamilies,butthechildless canparadise and justforadults).Thecampinggroundis ming inoneof three pools(one hydromassage prisingly good tennis, tennis table or pis tent €5.50-6.50,car€2-2.50,3-/6-personbungalows€35-93; .com; ViaTrasimenoI91,BiviaBorghetto;perperson€5.50-7, Badiaccia Camping BUDGET 9am-1pmSat) & 2.30-6.30pmMon-Fri, delleAlpi3,Perugia;station, LargoCacciatori inItalian;Piazzawww.infoumbria.com Intercitybus Partigiani 360 Comfortable enough towantspendafew enough Comfortable La Casa sulLago LaCasa Paola’s B&B closed 3-7pm; incl breakfast €15/17; IsolaPolvese;dm/f www.fattoriaisolapolvese.com; o HOW ABOUTBOTH? HOSTEL? AGRITURISMO? around 7pm.Seealso p312 . ferry toIsolaPolvese leaves SanFeliciano only. Mealsare alsoavailable(€10).Last can bookinthelowseasonbyappointment and laundryroomare allonoffer. Groups withDVDs, aks, private beaches,games,TV all withviewsofthesurroundinglake. Kay- barn hasdorm,doublesandfamilyrooms staying inanHIyouthhostel. This former bly run,youwouldhardlyever knowyou’re NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN ) Fattoria IlPoggio Practise yourDutch whileplaying Practise ( % i ristorante/pizzeria, orswim- 075 5730808,3356247240;Cittàdella ( ( ) % % Besidesbeingimpecca- For an authentic Italian ForanauthenticItalian h 075 9659097;www.badiaccia 075 8400042;Viadel Lavoro, bocce, eatingatthesur- Mar-30 Oct, reception Oct, Mar-30

( % , where staff will , where staff 075 9659550;

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.com; Piazza 6,CastiglionedelLago;s€68-76,d€88- Mazzini times. Thisisagreat placetotrylocalfish. very popular,soexpectalotof atmeal noise a private beach. Therestaurant downstairs is of themainvillage ontheisland, notfarfrom stone building.It’sfoundatthenorthernend r€80) Via Guglielmi1,IsolaMaggiore; bakery below. telephone, andtheowners runtheyummy minibarand ile butfullyoutfitted withTV, a renovated palace. Theroomsare ster- atad atthiscentralthree-star hotel,price isright Emanuele 50,CastiglionedelLago;s€50,d€60-80; La Torre MIDRANGE kitchenette, foranamorous hideaway. the ‘tower’mini-apartment,complete with longues fromwhich Rent towatch thesunset. overlooks thelake, complete withchaises the ownerandaprivate flower-filled garden room isdecorated withartworkpainted by this artisticallymindedtranquilretreat. Each €65-70; 4,CastiglionedelLago;rinclbreakfast ViadelleMura rione; but notnearmuch else. short walkfromtheTorricellatrainstation garden… allwithin50mfromthelake. A access, home-cooked meals,barandprivate telkind: laundry,bicyclerental, wi-fi, internet location. ing, archery, bicycle rentals anda stunning not cheap, comewithhorserid- butitdoes ‘rustic’ (translation:sparse)andit’sbe atad initsmeals.Roomscanand jams,allused farm producingwine,olive oil,honey,meats istrulyaworking,family-runestablishment families onholidays,thepopular withItalian cial of Umbria’sorganic agriturismi pns 6, CittàdellaPieve; dB&B€90-120,half-board€130-180; delleGrazie22; www.madonnadellegrazie.it; VocMadonna (aperennialtana favourite). Fon- also agoodrestaurant downstairs –La There’s androomservice. such assatellite TV sides theplushfabrics),butithasamenities magnificent lake views.It’sratheraustere (be- Miralago iscentral,andtop-floor roomshave 93, tr€108-113; have amenityknowntohos- accesstoevery establishment hasjust10roomsinarustic establishment Agriturismo Madonna delleGrazie Madonna Agriturismo DaSauro Hotel Il Torrione Hotel Miralago Miralago Hotel

h ( % ) 1 Mar-10 Nov) 1 Mar-10 The largest andmostcommer- 075 951666;www.trasinet.com/latorre; Via

( h % ( closed mid-Jan–mid-Mar; 075 953236;www.trasinet.com/iltor % ( % 075 951157;www.hotelmiralago 075 826168;fax5130; Romance aboundsat

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ste €225-340; Loc. IGiorgi,Petrignano; d€166-230, www.cortedelsole.com; have thisastonishinghotel astheback- seen o TOP END lonelyplanet.com expansive countrysideview(withafew castles with bathrooms).Outsideisapoolfacingan washer anddryer,fourbedrooms(three and comeswithacompletely stocked kitchen, beamed ceilingsandanopen-hearthfireplace, decorated withterracotta-tilefloors, wood- thicket. spat inthefloralgardenbehind theolive-tree its 360-degree countrysideview),oralovers brandy inthefabric-draped front of aprivate in-roomfireplace, chess and drop of aperioddrama–soulfulchat in ps minimum €100-160,perweekforupto8people€2000-3000; 19,LiscianoNiccone;dwith3-night cation.com, SanMartino of thelake. Themainbuildingisimpeccably inthehillsnorth friends tothisfarmhouse SanMartino Casa away. whichislocatedabout15minutes pickguestsupatPerugia’ssumptuously decadent.Staffeven Sant’Egidioairport, swimming pool,thecandlelitTurkish sauna,scrumptiousrestaurant andquintessentialcountrysideviews are justas someone else. yourthank-you notesand,forexhaustednewlyweds,organisedexcursionsthatleavetheplanningto which towrite –sweetlyscentedgardens,romanticin-roomfireplaces, aglassenclosedcircular package perfect (hamlet) ofPetrignano, thisbeautifulformermonasticvillageoffers romanticamenityavailableinonepicture- every distancefromtheTuscan Trasimeno here aswell.Walking why theydidn’tgetmarried borderintheLake Villa Zuccari Relais Borgo Brufa Relais AllaCorte delSole Il Torrione Fattoria IlPoggio Trasimeno. array ofromanticgetawaystosuitanypricepoint,especiallyintheareas surroundingLake Whether youare travelling onashoestringorwithplatinumpursestrings,Umbriaoffers avast HONEYMOONING INUMBRIA(ONANYBUDGET) enotecas (winebars) are justminutes away. swimming poolmightjust temptyoutostickaround.Ifdodecide toventure out, Montefalco’srestaurants and gardenwith heated tial rooms(somewithin-room Jacuzzitubsorstonebalconies),excellent restaurant andprivate their clients’needs,which honeymooningcoupleswillespeciallyappreciate atthis mostromanticofhotels. Thepala- care ofall hosts,excellingintaking are care expert ofyouforawhile?ThenoblefamilythatrunsVilla Zuccari take Romantically placedbenchesallowforquietmomentsalone. throughtheabandonedcastle. diningwithyourfellow hostelmatesandwandering Trasimeno,kayaking, in Lake island’shostel bouquets,youcanspendafew nightsinyourownroomonthisprivate than thecostofmostbridal Lake Trasimeno. Lake throw awayfromthemainsquare oftheeminentlywanderableCastiglionedelLago–mostcongenial townon bedandbreakfast islocatedjustastone’s terrace.Thissuperbartist-designed outside inthesunshineonyourprivate anddine goingsightseeing tosleepinuntilnoon,cooklunchyourkitchenette just mightbetemptedtoskip ) Come with one or seven of Comewithoneorseven yourbest Relais Alla Corte del Sole AllaCorte Relais pas ( opposite stepstoyourpersonalhoneymoontowercottage,where you ) Climbupasetofpirate-ship ( p344 spendingayearormore planningyour nuptials,wouldn’titbenicetohavesomeone ) After NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN ( % ( opposite ) Youdon’tneedtospendalotof ) ( p333 Suitewithitsgold-plated bedandin-room ) Evenifyoudon’tstayintheImperial You’d swearyoumust 075 844288;www.tuscanyva ( above spot,is ) Theonlyworrythathoneymoonersmighthaveatthiswonderful orangerie (with ( % 075 9689008; sample andbuythearea’ssample bestwine,olive oil adjacent race forsummerdining–butthere’s alsoan a statelyinterior withalovely outdoorter- only isthiswell-pricedrestaurant fabulous– tiglione delLago;mains€6.60-13.20; white wineandherbs. best varietiesof localfish, cooked inolive oil, and a woodoven withgarlic,fennel andherbs) dishes, such ascarp and wine. Inaddition,you’llfindmanyfish are The mainspecialtiesof theTrasimeno area Eating painting classes. it opensasaB&Boffering cookingandfresco butinthelowseason ing appliesotherwise), the summer(athree-night minimumbook- building isoften rented during outweekly thrown in)andastonebarbecuegrill.The La Cantina soldi (money)tohavearomantictryst.Forless fagiolina tegamaccio, akindof soupystew of the magazzino (shop) where youcan ( (littlewhite beans),olive oil % 075 9652432;ViaEmanuele93,Cas- in porchetta (cooked in orangerie from

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361 NORTHERN UMBRIA UMBRIA NORTHERN NORTHERN UMBRIA chi, Petrignano; meals€27) 362 Feliciano. looklike Itdoesn’t much, butlo- this restaurant neartheferry terminal inSan on IsolaPolvese, you’llmostlikely passby cream (€7). withspicysausages sauce decadent macaroniinnorcina(fromNorcia) onFridays.Trythe and fresh fishisserved grilled onanopenfire, perfect forachilly day, trattoria inPanicale, above thelake. Meats are style comfortfoodabounds atthishill-top 30,Panicale;Ceppari meals€28; made pizzas,hotoutof thebrickoven? smoked lake fish.Didwementionthehome- pumpkin risotto,andtagliatelle withlocal bruschetta withlocalolive andyellow oil,eel menu features gems like flower-draped fieldsof yellow,theinventive nearsun- inanoldbrickfarmhouse Housed out here wouldbereason tostopin. enough absolutely (which fantastic itis),thedrive maccio. the lake orhave of in anappetiser eel try outthelocalcarpinporchetta fresh from rather refined restaurant isagreat placeto 69, CastiglionedelLago;setmenu€25; fagiolina and treats. Trythedelicioustroutwithlocal San Feliciano; meals€28; diBoldrini Le Grotte L’Acquario Da Settimio Da Settimio La LocandadiGulliver NORTHERN UMBRIA •• Lago di Trasimeno (Lake Trasimeno) UMBRIA••LagodiTrasimeno(Lake NORTHERN (€8.20). ( % ( % 075 965 24 32; Via Vittoria Emanuele 075 9652432;ViaVittoria 075 8476000;ViaLungolago Alicata,

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h Thu-Tue) If you stay If youstay Umbrian- tega- This Buozzi 26,CastiglionedelLago) front ateach town,where youcanpickupa ices. Thecompanyhasofficesonthewater- Marinelli Ferrettini Fabio Marinelli Castiglione delLago) Cicli Valentini ( sul Lago p360 outlets: ) oratthese grounds, Fattoria ( IlPoggio p360 Casa ) orLa stop runningat7pm. to IsolaMaggiore (€3.70,30minutes). Ferries delLago (€3.10, 10minutes) andCastiglione 40 minutes), SanFeliciano toIsolaPolvese from Passignano (€4, delLago toCastiglione the endof hourlyferries head September, timetable. Fromapproximately until Easter nine daily). (€3.30,onehour, delLago and Castiglione 25 minutes), Passignano (€2.30,30minutes) Perugia aroundhourlytoTorricella(€1.80, 15 minutes, ninedaily).Trainsheadfrom (€4.60,onehourand delLago Castiglione (€3, onehourand10minutes, ninedaily)and connectPerugiaAPM buses with Passignano Getting There&Around little fishies’. of(fisherman’s risotto)ortheappetiser ‘fried four generations. Trytherisotto allapescatora area, handeddownfromfathertosonfor cals knowitasthebestfishrestaurant inthe You canrent bicyclesatmostcamping APM ( % 800 512141) ( % /fax 075951663;ViaFirenze 68b, alsooperates ferry serv-

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