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Fashionating Images COMUNICAZIONI SOCIALI 1 1 1 COMUNICAZIONI SOCIALI January-April 2017 JOURNAL OF MEDIA, PERFORMING ARTS AND CULTURAL STUDIES Fashionating Images Audiovisual Media Studies Meet Fashion OMUNICAZIONI SOCIALI OMUNICAZIONI C Edited by Adriano D’Aloia, Marie-Aude Baronian and Marco Pedroni Fashionating Images January-April 2017 • Cover image: Leung Chi Wo, Frater, 2015. Sewing machine, black-and-white film negative, 50-cent Hong Kong coins «Comunicazioni sociali» 1/2017 from 1967, low speed motor and steel frame, e 29,00 Anno XXXIX Nuova Serie 146.5×65×55 cm. Courtesy of the artist. Poste Italiane SpA spedizione in Abb.Postale D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27.02.2004 n°46) art.1, comma 1, DCB MI in L. 27.02.2004 353/2003 (conv. D.L. Abb.Postale Italiane SpA spedizione in Poste sovracoperta Com soc 1_17.indd 1 08/05/17 13:55 1 COMUNICAZIONI SOCIALI JOURNAL OF MEDIA, PERFORMING ARTS AND CULTURAL STUDIES OMUNICAZIONI SOCIALI OMUNICAZIONI C Anno XXXIX Nuova serie 1 N. 1 January-April 2017 04 nº 46) art. 1, comma DCB Mi 0 .02.2 7 . in L. 2 v n 03 (co 0 .L. 353/2 D ale Pubblicazioni dell’Università Cattolica t os Largo Gemelli 1 P 20123 Milano Abb. January-April 2017 • aliane SpA spedizione in t oste I Anno XXXIX In caso di mancato recapito si restituisca al mittente che si impegna a pagare la relativa tassa P COP_ComSoc 1_17.indd 1 08/05/17 13:49 Anno XXXIX Nuova serie 1 January-April 2017 Pubblicazione quadrimestrale / Three issues per year Comitato scientifico / Scientific committee PIERMARCO AROLDI, CLAUDIO BERNARDI, ROBERTA CARPANI, ANNAMARIA CASCETTA, FAUSTO COLOMBO, RUGGERO EUGENI, MARIAGRAZIA FANCHI, ARMANDO FUMAGALLI, CHIARA GIACCARDI, ALDO GRASSO, MASSIMO LOCATELLI, SILVANO PETROSINO, MASSIMO SCAGLIONI, GIORGIO SIMONELLI, NICOLETTA VITTADINI (Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore), CHRISTIAN BIET (Université Paris Ouest Nanterre La Défense), GIOVANNI BOCCIA ARTIERI (Università degli Studi di Urbino Carlo Bo), JÉRÔME BOURDON (Tel Aviv University), GUSTAVO CARDOSO (Universidade de Lisboa), NICO CARPENTIER (Vrije Universiteit Brussels), FRANCESCO CASETTI (Yale University), STANLEY E. GONTARSKI (Florida State University), JAIME NUBIOLA (Universidad de Navarra), PEPPINO ORTOLEVA (Università degli Studi di Torino), LAURA RASCAROLI (University College Cork), ALEXANDRA SCHNEIDER (Johannes Gutenberg – Universität Mainz), IRA WAGMAN (Carleton University) Direttore / Editor in chief CHIARA GIACCARDI Direttore emerito / Director emeritus GIANFRANCO BETTETINI Redazione / Editorial board PAOLO BRAGA, ROBERTA CARPANI, ADRIANO D’ALOIA, MASSIMO LOCATELLI, LAURA PEJA (coordinatore/ coordinator), MASSIMO SCAGLIONI, NICOLETTA VITTADINI Redazione scientifica / Editorial board: [email protected] Redazione editoriale / Production editor: [email protected] Abbonamenti / Subscription queries: [email protected] La rivista è disponibile anche in versione digitale sul sito http://comunicazionisociali.vitaepensiero.it Digital edition available at http://comunicazionisociali.vitaepensiero.com La rivista ha adottato il sistema di double-blind peer review dal 2009 / Double-blind peer reviewed since 2009. Indicizzata da / Indexed in: Dialnet; SCOPUS Pubblicata con il supporto del Dipartimento di Scienze della Comunicazione e dello Spettacolo e dell’Alta Scuola in Media Comunicazione e Spettacolo, Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore / Published with the support of the Department of Communication and Performing Arts and of ALMED - Graduate School of Media and Performing Arts, Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore. Dipartimento di Scienze della Comunicazione e dello Spettacolo 2a-3a COP ComSoc 1_17.indd 1 08/05/17 13:49 www.vitaepensiero.it Libri Ebook Riviste - Anteprime Notizie Interviste e Gallery Anche su © 2017 Vita e Pensiero - Pubblicazioni dell’Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore Proprietario: Istituto Giuseppe Toniolo di Studi Superiori ISBN: 978-88-343-3385-3 ISSN (carta): 03928667 ISSN (digitale): 18277969 È vietata la riproduzione degli articoli senza il preventivo consenso dell’Editore. Reproduction of the articles is forbidden without the publisher’s prior consent. Prezzo del presente fascicolo / Price of a single issue: Privati /Private subscribers: Italia / Italy € 29,00 - estero / outside Italy € 42,00 Enti / Institutions: Italia / Italy € 33,00 - estero / outside Italy € 45,00 Abbonamento annuo / Annual subscription: Privati /Private subscribers carta o online / paper and online: Italia / Italy € 75,00 - estero / outside Italy € 100,00 Enti / Institutions carta o online / paper and online: Italia / Italy € 83,00 - estero / outside Italy € 110,00 Simultaneous access to over 15 users contact: [email protected] Info e vantaggi per gli abbonati su www.vitaepensiero.it/abbonamenti Redazione e Amministrazione: Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore - L.go Gemelli, 1-20123 Milano Redazione / Editorial board: tel. 02/72342368 - mail: [email protected] Amministrazione / Administration: tel. 02/72342310 - mail: [email protected] Direttore responsabile / Director: Gianfranco Bettetini Registrazione del Tribunale di Milano 30 novembre 1973, n. 446 Registered with the Milan Court 30 november 1973, no. 446 Copertina / Cover design: Andrea Musso Composizione / Photocomposition: Gi&Gi, Tregasio di Triuggio (Mb) Stampa / Printed by: Litografia Solari, Peschiera Borromeo (Mi) Finito di stampare nel mese di aprile 2017 / Printed in april 2017 Pubblicità inferiore al 45% 2a-3a COP ComSoc 1_17.indd 2 08/05/17 13:49 Indice/Index FASHIONATING IMAGES Audiovisual Media Studies Meet Fashion Edited by Adriano D’Aloia, Marie-Aude Baronian and Marco Pedroni ADRIANO D’ALOIA - MARIE-AUDE BARONIAN - MARCO PEDRONI Fashionating Images. Audiovisual Media Studies Meet Fashion p. 3 MASSIMO SCAGLIONI - GIUSEPPE SUMA Fashion-Branded Entertainment. How Italian Fashion Brands Utilize Audiovisual Media to Tell Stories and Entertain Audiences » 13 LUCIO SPAZIANTE Textual Innovation of the Audiovisual Language in Fashion Film » 27 ELENA CAODURO ‘Women’s Tales’: Postfeminist Adventures into Consumerville » 37 PATRICIA PISTERS Metallurgic Fashion. Sartorial Transformations in Changing Techno-Mediated Worlds » 43 GELI MADEMLI Inside the Capsule of Artistic Practices. Wearing and Performing the Moving Image » 53 ANDREA RABBITO The ‘Parody of the Mottled Corpse’ in Antonioni, Almodóvar, Carax and Winding Refn » 61 ŞÖLEN KIPÖZ - BAŞAK SÜLLER ZOR Yamamoto’s Auratic Resistance and the Materiality of the Electronic Images in Notebook on Cities and Clothes » 69 I. The Posthuman Condition: Living in a Brave New World ANTONELLA MASCIO Tv Series and Fashion. A Look to the Audiences’ Activities » 79 ANNA MANZATO The Canon of Style. Fashion in Factual Entertainment » 91 00_Indice.indd 1 10/05/2017 08:39:10 2 INDICE/INDEX SARA PESCE Cosplay, Superheroes and the Democratization of Fashion p. 97 ROMANA ANDÒ ‘Spacchettiamo!’. Il fenomeno dei video haul nella relazione tra adolescenti e fashion brand » 105 REBECCA HALLIDAY Tom Ford and the Live Fashion Show as a Mediatized Spectacle » 119 Miscellanea JANE M. GAINES For More Histories of Theory and Theories of History » 131 ULIANO CONTI Il terrorismo jihadista occidentale: considerazioni per un’interpretazione subculturale » 141 LUIGI BELLONI Un dittico ‘romano’: La Vestale e Norma. Dal dramma classico al dramma lirico » 151 DAMIANO GAROFALO ‘‘Andare alla Televisione’’. Pubblici popolari e ritualità collettive della televisione italiana delle origini » 163 LUCA BANDIRALI Io viaggio da sola. Modelli di Heroine’s Journey nella nuova serialità televisiva » 174 Com soc 1_17.indb 2 08/05/2017 09:56:39 «Comunicazioni sociali», 2017, n. 1, 3-12 © 2017 Vita e Pensiero / Pubblicazioni dell’Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore ADRIANO D’ALOIA* - MARIE-AUDE BARONIAN**- MARCO PEDRONI*** FASHIONATING IMAGES Audiovisual Media Studies Meet Fashion1 1. FASHION AS A MEDIUM Over the past decades, fashion has acquired centrality in social and economic processes in Western culture for its capacity to penetrate and influence both cultural production and identitarian practices. In the last few years, the proliferation of media objects, such as fashion films, makeover TV shows, fashion blogs and vlogs has shown how prolific the encounter between fashion and audiovisual media can be. The aim of this special issue is to explore this intersection and, consequently, the cross fertilization between fashion studies and media studies, with particular regard to audiovisual media, such as cinema, television, advertising and digital video. The fundamental idea behind all the contributions to the issue is that a strong mu- tual relationship binds the moving-image and fashion together, where by ‘fashion’ is not meant merely clothing, but rather a wide set of social performative practices cha- racterized by a tension towards – or even an obsession with – the ‘new’. This bond is not only a ‘thematic’ relationship – fashion in the moving-image – aimed at exploring what happens when fashion is narrated and conveyed via audiovisual media, and, con- versely, what happens when cinema or television assimilate fashion as a key element of their narratives. Nor is it only a ‘reciprocal’ relationship – the moving-image industry in fashion – of professional and creative resources, such as film directors or Hollywood stars hired by fashion brands to produce short films and commercials. Nor is it only a ‘conjunctive’ relationship – fashion and the moving-image – although this is indispensa- ble in order to understand fashion as an essential tool of the mise-en-scène (e.g. costume and make-up)
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